Reddit mentions: The best thermometers

Enclosure
Glass tanks with screen lids are very bad for ball pythons, you would be looking at getting a tub set up (using a rubber maid / sterilite / iris tub and soldering or drilling holes into the sides - here is a good tutorial of setting that up ). Or you would be wanting to get a PVC enclosure. I have an Animal Plastics T8 for my ball python, it did take about five weeks for it to show up, though. The tub route is cheaper, but takes more DIY skills. The PVC cage route is more expensive, but very aesthetically pleasing.

Humidity
A ball python needs at the minimum 60% humidity. This is incredibly difficult to achieve in a glass tank with a screen top. A tub or PVC enclosure makes this super easy. Humidity should be measured on the ground with a digital hygrometer. The stick on humidity gauges that pet stores hawk are often inaccurate and can cause serious injury or even death if they come unstuck from the wall and stick to your snake. I use this two in one hygrometer / thermometer.

Temperature
Ball pythons need a thermogradiant with one end at between 88F and 90F and a cool end of 78Fish - the ambient temperature should never be below 75F, and should be around high 70's. In a tub or a PVC enclosure, you will want an under tank heater - heat tap, heat mats, heat pads. I recommend the flexwatt that you can get with the Animal Plastics enclosure or the ultratherm from Reptile Basics. If you have trouble keeping the ambient up in the PVC enclosure, you may want to get a radiant heat panel, which installs to the ceiling of the enclosure. If, for some reason, you decide to ignore this advice and get a glass tank, you will probably need a ceramic heat emitter installed over the cage to keep ambient temperatures appropriate.

Thermostats
Any and all heat sources you have for your BP need to be controlled by a thermostat. Failure to appropriately control your heat source can lead to it quickly becoming 120F and seriously injuring your snake. I highly recommend Spyder Robotics Herpstats. You can get larger ones with more probes so that you can control all your heat sources with one unit. They have a ton of good safety features and a lot of people on this sub can answer any questions you have on them. The cheaper ones are around $100ish. If that is too much for you, there are a lot of people who use the Jumpstart thermostats, but they have less safety features and can wear out quickly. They also make a loud clicking sound periodically. I cannot stress this enough, this is not a place to cut corners. You need a thermostat.

Thermometers
I already linked to my recommended combo hygro/thermometer. This thermometer is great because it has a small probe to measure "outside" temperatures. I use this probe to measure the floor on my warm side. I place the unit itself on the cool side, so I know all my temps and the humidity on one unit. You will also want an IR thermometer gun (there might be better recs than this one). This is good for spot checking temperatures without moving around probes and also checking the temps of the prey items.

Hides
You want at least two similar, enclosed hides. Half logs are NOT suitable, they are too open and they stress out the BP, as they can't watch both ends at once for a predator. IMO some of the best hides are these ones from Reptile Basics. They are enclosed on all sides with just a small entrance. They are also dishwasher safe, and also very cheap. You want them to be similar if not identical, so that the snake does not have to choose between feeling safe and thermoregulating. You will want one on each side of the temperature gradient. Feel free to add more that are different for diversity in the enclosure. I also have some fake vines / leaves in mine so that she feels more invisible. Go to a craft store or the fish supplies for these, the ones marketed for reptiles are way overpriced.

Water dish
You will want a water bowl that is large enough for the BP to soak in. This should be changed daily, as they like to poop and pee in their water occasionally. You'll want something sturdy as they like to tip them over. I got some crock dishes from Reptile Basics. You don't need any water treatment for the snakes water unless you treat water for yourself. If you tap is safe for human consumption, it's safe for your snake.

Feeding
BP's eat every 5 - 7 days as hatchlings and yearlings, and as adults they can go longer. BP's are NOTORIOUSLY picky eaters. The ideal IMO for a BP is a proper sized rat fed either pre-killed or frozen/thawed. I feed frozen/thawed rats from Perfect Prey. Just a heads up - they ship with fiber glass insulation and dry ice. I try to open the packages outside so my cats don't get into it. THey come in freezer bags and I just store them in my regular freezer (and I myself am a vegetarian, no concerns about it mixing in with my veggies). If even one thing is wrong in your husbandry, your BP will likely not eat.

How Much To Feed
The feeding amount depends on the weight of the BP. You will want a digital kitchen scale - you can get one cheaply at any box store. While under 750g, you want to feed about 10%-15% of their body weight about every 7 days. Once they are in their second year you want to feed 7%-10% of their body weight, after they are in their third year, you want to feed about 5% every 7 to 14 days. I document all feeding days and the weight of the prey in my google calender.

You should be weighing your snake at least once a month to track how much you should be feeding. You should not disturb or move or handle your snake for at least 48 hours after feeding.

Frozen / Thawed
I feed frozen/thawed from Perfect Prey. I get the rat out the night before the day I want to feed. I put it in the fridge. About two hours before I feed, I get it out of the fridge and put it on the counter to get it to room temp. And then I soak it in a zip lock bag in warmish water (I use a temp gun to get water around 110F) for about 20 minutes, and use a temp gun to make sure the rat is around 110F, and then I run the head under running hot water until its 110F. Sometimes I use a double boiler method instead, depends on the day. The head of the prey should be warmer so the snake has a target. I then use tongs to move it around in the enclosure to mimic it being alive. She (usually) strikes pretty quickly. If she doesn't, I leave it in overnight, and throw it out in the morning if she doesn't eat it.

I prefer frozen thawed cause I can buy cheaply in bulk. It's also safer. As BP's get bigger, they require larger prey - and rats have sharp teeth and sharp claws and can seriously injure your snake.

Myths of Cage Aggression
You do not need a separate cage for feeding it. This is a myth. The best way to reduce stress at feeding time is to feed in their regular enclosure. This minimizes the risk of regurgitation.

Substrate
Stay away from aromatic woods - such as pine. A lot of people like to use coconut husk, unprinted newspaper, or paper towels. There are pros and cons to each. I like paper towels, they are cheap and easy to clean up messes with. I use PVC enclosure so I don't need a substrate that helps with humidity like coconut husk. This should be spot cleaned whenever a mess is made. My BP likes burrowing under the paper towels. She creates "underground" tunnels. Aspen chips can mold super easily so not really recommended. If you have a chip type substrate and are worry about ingestion of substrate while feeding, put a plate down before hand.

Shedding
Hatchlings shed more frequently, but you should expect regular shedding. Usually the most visible sign they are about to shed is them getting cloudy or "blue" eyes - just google image search for "ball python blue eyes" - the ones that look cloudy are what you are looking for (not the beautiful "blue eyed lucy"). Once they "go into blue" you want to leave them alone as much as possible. Check in on them to refill their water and make sure their humidity is correct, but don't handle or disturb them while they are shedding. You will probably see them remove their skin about a week after they go blue. Right right before they shed, their eyes will clear up, but don't be fooled - if you haven't found their old skin they haven't shed yet. Once you have their old skin, you will want to remove it and inspect it. You might need to moisten it, but unroll it (there might be a poop in it....) carefully and look for eye caps and make sure the whole skin is in one long piece. Then inspect the snake for any stuck shed. Don't pull off the stuck shed, but soak your BP in some warm water and it should come off mostly on its own. Stuck shed is usually a sign that humidity is off - so try to identify ways to increase humidity.

>[E]very chem lab should have a good number of 150-250 mL glass beakers on hand.

1. After looking up the differences (incl. price) between regular glass and borosilicate glass, when would borosilicate be mandatory?
   
   >Some large size glass test tubes will come in handy, and those are relatively cheap.
   
   
2. What would be considered "large size?"
   
   >Depending on what type of reactions you want to do, you may find it good to have petri dishes handy, either glass or plastic (they'd be good for crystallization experiments, certainly).
   
   
3. How many, and of what size, would be good for starting?
   
   >You should definitely have a few pipettes, either the cheap plastic 3 mL kind, or if you can afford it, nicer glass droppers (Pasteur pipettes are fun to use, albeit fragile and hard to clean).
   
   
4. Are the glass pipettes for strong acids, basis, or organic solvents? Are there any other benefits to glass pipettes?
   
   >You will definitely need a graduated cylinder, maybe a few, in different sizes, glass or plastic (definitely glass if you're planning on working with any strong acids or bases, or using organic solvents).
   
   
5. What sizes should I be looking for? I'm guessing polypropelyne is the preferred plastic type since that has the most available on Amazon. Is this Set of 7 Polypropylene Cylinders sufficient? What size glass cylinder would be the most common for home experiments with strong acids, bases, or organic solvents?
   
   >You will find a scale, accurate to at least a tenth of a gram, to be an invaluable tool.
   
   
6. Could you please recommend a specific scale, or at least a type? I'd like to spend as little as possible without getting a piece of junk. Is there anything available for under $100?
   
   >Some litmus or pH paper will be useful.
   
   
7. Most of these seem to be range limited. I found what appears to be a full range paper or a set of papers that provide full range. Would you recommend either of these?
   
   >Oh, and a thermometer, of course!
   
   
8. I thought this one was simple until I looked it up. What exactly am I looking for here? Infrared Thermometers seem like a good idea because they don't physically contact the sample, but I'd like some guidance with regard to a trusted brand.
   
   >If you want to dispense precise quantities of any liquid, a 25 mL burette will be your best friend, though it's certainly not necessary.
   
   8.a) This one seems relatively straightforward. Finally!
   
   >a volumetric flask, for making precise stock solutions.
   
   
9. Size? I've tentatively added a 100ml and 500ml to my list. Is Karter Scientific considered good quality?
   
   >A few Erlenmeyer flasks, for mixing things.
   
   
10. This set of Erlenmeyer flasks seems like a good place to start. Which sizes do you find yourself needing most often?
    
    >A volumetric pipette, for making equal aliquots.
    
    
11. Wow, these things appear to be quite expensive. What types of home experiments would it be difficult to do without a volumetric pipette? This one will probably wait until the need arises.
    
    >Oh, and if you just want your lab to be that much more mad sciencey, you could have a distillation flask and a few condensation tubes bubbling in the background. If you want to make a significant investment, you could get a magnetic stirring platform, maybe one with good heating powers. Also great for whisking up an egg, or keeping some batter moving while you make pancakes. Pricey, though.
    
    
12. I'll probably stay away from the distillation flasks and condensation tubes until I stumble upon an experiment that requires them, but the magnetic stirring platform looks like a much cooler way to make coffee in the morning. Is this stirrer from Hanna Instruments any good?
    
    
    Thanks a ton for putting together that list!
    
    EDIT: Formatting

To get into the XBox:

• I used a size 10 and 8 Torx bits, but here's iFixit's guide that I followed
  
  
• Connect both drives to your computer. I use USB drive enclosures for the plug-and-play goodness.
  
• Boot to a Linux Operating system, either in a Virtual Machine or boot to USB stick
  
• Download xboxonehdd-master and follow the guides
  
• Disconnect the drives
  
• Mark (with tape or sharpie) your xbox one hdd as such and store in an ESD safe bag
  
• Plug the SSD into your xbox
  
• The XBox should boot. Navigate to system and factory reset the system. This will re-install the OS
  
  I'm using a Samsung 850 Evo 512GB. With the partitioning, that left me with about 375GB left for games. That's why I also use an external.
  
  I have noticed a LOT of improvements. Booting the xbox one is a breeze... getting through menus is more fluid, and downloading/installing updates takes a considerably less amount of time.
  
  I recommend this process to anyone who is patient, tech savvy, and can follow directions. So, I told my brother to not, under any circumstance, attempt to replace his hard drive. :)
  
  As far as the cooling box goes...
  
  I come from the PC realm. So, thermals are always at the top of my mind. I was actually very happy with how the Xbox One X handled games. However, Monster Hunter: World and PUBG's Title Screen proved to overwork the processor. It got my xbox COOKING. Even with it being extra warm, I didn't decide to make one for the xbox.
  
  The project started as a desk mod for my overly hot laptop. That laptop needs all the thermal dissipation assistance it can get. So, I bore out holes in my desk's center drawer, mounted a few 120mm fans, hooked up 12VDC power to a PWM controller, and wired up the fans to the output of the PWM controller. It was really easy to do.
  
  Out of curiosity, I wanted to see what it was like to have the Xbox in the drawer. To my surprise, the Xbox was cool to the touch by just introducing an exhaust fan. (Most of the heat is towards the back of the xbox, where the CPU is) So, I got the idea to make an enclosure for it and install a thermal sensor.
  
  $20 later in wood, screws, and hinges, I created the box.
  
  The temperature sensor cost $13. I chose an ambient sensor, because I didn't want to disassemble the CPU's heatsink to add a more accurate sensor.
  
  So, what are its successes? The box is enclosed. With the fans off and the front bay open, temps can get into the 50s Celsius. if I turn the fans on, the temps will get down into the 30s. You can touch your hand to the Xbox to see if it's getting hot or not, and it's always cool to the touch where it ought to be super hot.
  
  Just to cover these points, the reasons why you ought to make sure your temperatures are in check:
  
  
• Eliminates thermal throttling, which otherwise would downclock your CPU/GPU and not have max performance
  
• Ensures the longevity of your hardware. The hotter the hardware is, the shorter the shelf-life it has.
  
  There's a lot of people who'd say that the xbox doesn't need extra cooling, but google searches confirmed that people are experiencing overheating with the One X (and more specifically, PUBG).
  
  TL;DR I built the box because some games were making it hot and I didn't want hot.

Batch cooking ahead of time is a great way to save time and the food is just as good as cooking fresh. Having food ready to go in the fridge has also helped me save money from eating out less. I've also lost weight from having better portion control and feeling more satisfied. Definitely nice bonuses I did not expect when I got a sous vide machine to make better food.

Understanding the food safety behind sous vide cooking is a good place to start. Watch this video a few times and study it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FH9V8Dg86Zw

For more knowledge, listen to the catalog of the podcast Cooking Issues. Lots of info nuggets about sous vide along with many other aspects of technical cooking. And it's a hilarious show too.

This may only apply to novice cooks, but knowing how to cook an assortment of sides to go along with the sous vide proteins helps. I've been really enjoying butternut squash puree lately. Other go-tos are mashed potatoes, sauteed vegetables, roasted vegetables, and salad + dressing. As crazy as it sounds, when done right microwaved vegetables are great too!

Bonus: some of my favorite non-meat things to do sous vide:

• eggs Benedict
  
• ice cream
  
• creme brulee
  
  All crowd pleasers. Especially the creme brulee with the theatrics of a torch.
  
  Edit: I forgot to include what I learned about searing.
  
  
• Use a high temp oil like sunflower seed oil or avocado
  
• Get an ir thermometer ($13 on Amazon) and wait till your cast iron pan gets up to 550 before starting
  
• This is my preferred method for searing (skip to 4:40. Note they skipped the important power towel pat down in this video): https://www.facebook.com/Chefsteps/videos/vl.1739587399641454/1135229953181732/
  

If you don't have digital thermometers inside of your cage or a temperature checking thermal gun (something like this https://www.amazon.com/ANGGO-Non-contact-Temperature-Thermometer-Precisely/dp/B01FYVEJMY/ref=zg_bs_9931459011_6/139-0586439-0036854?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=92JFJMYZYZGMZY071HNT), do yourself a favor and get one. It takes the guesswork and anxiety out of making sure they have a good temperature gradient. If you go with digital thermometers inside the cage, you need one that can read two different temperatures (can't find the exact one I used previously, but it was something like this https://www.acurite.com/indoor-outdoor-thermometer-with-probe.html) or two within the cage (they do make extremely small ones). You should also get a humidity gauge, again digital is better. Currently I use one humidity gauge in the center of each enclosure and a thermometer gun.

Do not use the little plastic thermometers/humidity gauges that stick to the side of the glass, aside from them being less accurate they can come off and stick to your snake, which is no good.

Check for any weak points in your enclosure often. If there is mesh, make sure there are no holes or stretched spots, they are escape artists and even if they don't escape, can hurt themselves in the attempt. Lids should be secured at all times you don't have eyes on the cage.

Feeding inside or outside of the cage is a hot button issue and I won't recommend one way or another, but I will say if you feed in cage, be careful about bedding ingestion, it can cause impaction (bowels becoming obstructed with indigestible material). If you feel your snake is ingesting bedding when you feed, try making sure the food item is completely dry when you put it in and also laying down something to feed on, like flat rocks (what I personally use), a paper plate, regular plate, or newspaper. Avoid paper towels, if blood gets on it, snake could ingest that too.

Make sure to clean any new cage decor, I use regular soap and water and rinse VERY well for everything that isn't porous. That can get a little tricky, but google "How to clean *insert the thing you are trying to clean*".

Clean water regularly. Regular handling (multiple short sessions is better than longer sessions) is the key to taming them down if they are a little wild (which really depends on age and previous home handling, younger snakes tend to be more nippy than adults). Give the snake a decent amount of time to acclimate to the enclosure before you start working on getting them used to you by handling, most I have heard say a week. Don't handle for around 24 hours after feeding.

Oh, and enjoy your new buddy!

That is about all I can think of at the moment, feel free to ask specific questions if you have them. :)

You're welcome.

Regarding the IR thermometer. Ebay Germany has some pretty competitive pricing, but it looks like it all ships from China, which is going to take quite a while.

Budget can be a bit of a barrier to achieving great pizza, but intellect and passion can go a very long way. I have no doubt that you'll do great.

https://www.amazon.de/Helect-Digitale-Thermometer-Pyrometer-Beleuchtung/dp/B071NBJJ2Q/

The price on this is excellent, as is the peak temp- if you ever get your hands on a Neapolitan capable oven, this goes high enough to take readings of the hearth. As I'm sure you're aware, an IR thermometer is only going to be available online. You might be able to shave off a couple Euros with a lower peak temp- 350C will suit your present needs. Just get the cheapest one that you can find that will be delivered to you in a reasonable amount of time.

I'm also sure that you've seen my steel plate buying guide. The only difference for Germans is that you'll be asking for 'mild steel' or 3.3214 aluminum. The instructions for googling distributors are the same. Google 'steel near (my town)' or 'aluminum near (my town)' to get a list of distributors/fabricators and then start making calls. We'll know more once you take IR readings, but, for now, since your oven is borderline for steel, I'd price 1.5cm cm for the steel and, since it's on the hot side for aluminum, price 2cm for that.

Don't give up on local tomatoes and local mozzarella. San Marzanos, at least the SMs here in the U.S., tend to be very hit or miss. You should be able to walk into an average German supermarket and come out with a can of quality Italian tomatoes, if possible, crushed. Stay away from any tomato in clear glass. Also, don't be afraid of generic shrink wrapped mozzarella chunks. A place like Aldi should have one or two options. Pre-grated cheese is very far from ideal, but if that's all you have, I can help you work with it.

It will cost a bit more, but try to keep your eye out for scamorza. That's longer aged mozzarella, and nothing can touch it on pizza. Just make sure it's the unsmoked scamorza.

This is somewhat groundbreaking territory you're embarking on here. Only a couple of German redditors have taken this path (/u/ts_asum is a trailblazer), so a public discussion might be helpful to other Germans (and other Europeans, in general), but I'm fine with private questions as well.

TL;DR: The easiest way you can show the greenhouse effect is to have two jars. Fill one jar with CO2 and fill another one with regular atmosphere. Leave them out in the sun, and the CO2 jar will become much hotter than the regular jar. You can easily generate CO2 by combining vinegar and baking soda inside a bottle, or you can use water and alka-seltzer tablets (which are just a dry powdered acid and baking soda that only react when wet). If you're using a bottle with a screw-on cap you need to be careful not to generate too much gas or you've essentially made a pressure bomb.

You can see someone do this exact experiment on Youtube. Just the first guy who pops up for my search:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwtt51gvaJQ

Explanation is below:

The earth radiates heat away through infrared radiation (called black-body radiation). This infrared radiation is the same thing as light rays, but the wavelength is longer so our eyes can't see it. All objects emit some infrared radiation, but warmer objects emit more. This is the principle of the thermal camera- which is specially made so it can pick up and "see" those infrared rays. These are useful because hotter objects (like warm blooded humans, animals, light bulbs, etc.) are brighter than background objects. Home inspectors love these because it lets you find drafts in your home or faulty wiring. The police love these because people stand out clear as day, even in the middle of night or hiding in a bush (since they're warmer than the bush).

https://youtu.be/rBnYtEYMW-Y?t=196

The key to understanding the greenhouse effect is understanding that carbon dioxide is opaque to infrared light. Carbon dioxide absorbs infrared light, while most of the rest of the atmosphere just allows this light to sail through and escape to space.

You've seen this effect in action with visible light if you've ever left something black out in the sun. Black objects absorb light and get incredibly hot during the day. Bright white objects reflect light and stay much cooler. A really simple experiment you can do is to find a place where black asphalt runs up against a white sidewalk. Go out in the middle of the day and put your hand on both- the black asphalt will be much hotter. For bonus points you can get a cheap touch-less thermometer to confirm your results- point your thermometer at all sorts of things and figure out what gets hottest. You can find these online or in hardware stores for $15 or so.

https://www.amazon.com/ANGGO-Non-contact-Temperature-Thermometer-Precisely/dp/B01FYVEJMY/ref=zg_bs_9931459011_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VSR6YWEN6WBT7DM6H6C6

For something more controlled, wrap a jar of water in a black plastic bag or in black construction paper and leave it in the sun. Then, wrap another jar in a white plastic bag or in white construction paper and do the same. Go out in the middle of the day and feel them both- the black will be hotter.

Carbon dioxide acts the same way. It absorbs the invisible infrared rays, while regular atmosphere does not. The result of more carbon dioxide is that more infrared light is absorbed, and the atmosphere gets hotter than it would be otherwise. You can easily see this happen in action by filling a bottle with CO2 and comparing it to a non-CO2 bottle, as discussed above.

what type of thermometer/hygrometer are you using, analog or digital? where exactly are you measuring the temperature? on the wall? on top of the substrate? on the floor beneath the substrate? a UTH that is not regulated by a thermostat will run somewhere between 100 and 200 F. you need a thermostat, like this. the probe can be sandwiched between the UTH and the outside of the enclosure, or it can be placed inside the enclosure secured to the floor by hot gluing the probe to the floor. you should have an infrared thermometer, like this, to accurately spot-check the temperature anywhere in the enclosure, which will help ensure your thermostat is on the right setting to maintain a floor temperature of 90 F. if your cool/ambient temperature is below 75 F [with 80 F being the ideal] you'll need some sort of supplemental heat source like a second UTH run on its own thermostat, a radiant heat panel, or a ceramic heat emitter.

glass tanks are not great enclosures for ball pythons. the glass doesn't retain heat, and the screen lid allows too much air flow to retain any humidity. glass tanks can work, but it's an uphill battle of modification, monitoring, and maintenance. plastic storage tubs or pvc reptile cages are much more suitable for BPs. plastic is a much better insulator for heat, and the minimal air flow means you should be able to maintain 50%+ humidity with no special efforts. substrates like aspen are very dry and will contribute to low humidity, though, so you may want to switch to something more moisture friendly like cypress mulch. going backto enclosure types, i personally have one BP in a 74qt sterilite underbed tub secured with a pair of luggage straps, and my other two are in pvc cages from boaphile plastics. tubs aren't pretty, but they're cheap and effective. pvc cages are nice to look at, but they cost somewhere between $150 and $350 depending on which manufacturer you buy from and what size you get.

even without knowing how much your BP weighs, i can tell you that you're severely underfeeding her. a hatchling BP is capable of eating prey the size of an adult mouse. at two years old, she should be big enough to eat small or medium rats. get a digital kitchen scale to weigh her. right now, while she's growing, she should be eating approximately 15% of her own weight, though you'll want to build up to that gradually so you don't shock her system. you'll also want to switch to appropriately sized rats ASAP, because feeding several mice per meal is impractical at best and just not going to happen at worst. on rare occasions, a BP will just take a rat with no hesitation, but in most cases they won't eat it because they don't recognize it as food. i wrote a simple breakdown of how to switch a BP from mice to rats here. you won't find rats that are smaller than small adults in places like petco, petsmart, etc, so you may need to find a different rodent supplier if she's not ready for smalls yet.

your hides are inadequate. there should be two, one for the warm side and one for the cool side, that are snug [little/no empty space around the snake], enclosed [one entrance, snake is actually hidden], and identical [except for temperature]. this is VERY important to fix. your snake needs to be able to feel secure and be able to thermoregulate comfortably. hides like this are ideal. half logs are not appropriate.

regarding your snake biting you: she's immensely stressed. everything from your poor enclosure, being underfed, being moved to a feeding tub, all of these things are contributing to her being stressed, scared, and defensive. right now, you need to forget about handling her unless you're taking her out to weigh her. she should be fed inside the enclosure, and she should not be handled at all for your own pleasure until she is 100% healthy.

1. What you want to do is heat it up high enough to decarboxylate but below the vaporization point of THC (150 degrees may be a good number, for maybe 15-20 minutes in the oven). Then simmer it in melted butter for as long as you feel necessary at around the same temperature.
   
   EDIT: You can go higher than 150. Keep in mind that the vaporization points of the active cannabinoids in cannabis are mostly above 260 degrees, so keep it 30-50 degrees or so below that point.
   
   
2. It's not all that smelly. Definitely not as smelly as smoking it. The idea is to heat it up below the vaporization point so there shouldn't be [too] many stray odors.
   
   
3. Depends on the strength of the bud and the user's tolerance level. I've had very mixed results using low quality bud, so I'd recommend a lot. Maybe an ounce? Note that I have a pretty high tolerance.
   
   >After decarboxylation, I plan on boiling some water, throwing some butter in there
   
   Mixing butter with water? Doesn't seem conducive to the final goal. Just simmer it in pure melted butter. THC likes fat, a lot. You want to bind all the THC to the fat in the butter. Adding water to the mix seems like it will just muddy up the process. If you're worried about burning it, just make sure to keep the burner on a low setting, and keep an eye on the temperature with a thermometer. EDIT: Amazon link for a sweet laboratory thermometer. They usually range around 10-15 bucks.
   
   Good luck fellow ent!

Read the care guide in the sidebar, even if it's overwhelming. Read it all, read it twice, commit it to memory. If you truly care about the well being of the animal then this is going to be your go to guide, while we're always here to answer other questions. Also, you mention only getting one now because you're going to be free for the next dew months. I just want to make sure you understand that you're committing to a 15+ year responsibility here. 15 years if preparing and offering food daily, 15 years of socializing, 15 years of new UVB lights every 6-12 months and heat bulbs more frequently, 15 years of vet visits. If you think you can handle it that's awesome! I just don't want to see the animal end up in the same situation it was already in because you got over eager with your free time. Here are the basic necessities and the best place to buy them:

UVB - Fixture + Bulb

Supplements - Calcium + Multivitamin

Temperature - IR Temp Gun + Ambient Thermometer / Hygrometer

Heat Bulb - Go to Lowes / Home Depot/ Etc... and look for PAR38 Halogen Flood lights. Buy a few different wattage to see which gives you the proper temperature. Direct basking temp (check with IR Gun) should be no 105f - 110f. Once you find the bulb that works you can return the rest and you'll always know which wattage you need in the future.

Food - Superworms are not a staple and should only be fed as treats. Dubia are ideal and can be purchased here. Crickets, BSFL, and other treat worms can be purchased here. Buy online, you will save a lot of money. If the animal is as young as you think then he should be eating 80+ feeder insects every single day.

Substrate - Pick up some slate tile, shelf liner, or contact paper while you're at the hardware store. Do not use a lose substrate or reptile carpet.

Yea that's exactly what I do. The leaves that aren't intertwined with bud. Like the leaves that just come from the stem without bud. Maybe even a few really huge leaves that are easy to pluck off. When my bud dries the leaves kinda curl up around it. For some reason this really kept the smell. People say that wet trimming is easier but I felt that the dry trimming was much easier. Stems snap better, dried bud moves better for detailed trimming, and I wasn't trimming much of the wet hairs/product since the bud became more compact.

My only additional suggestion would be to grab yourself some cheap hygrometer for your jars. Like this and tape them on the inside of your jars. This will give you a sense of the humidity in your jars. More accuracy versus just guessing. You don't really need one for each jar. I picked up 4 of them for about 8 jars. You can move these around to get an idea. If the meters read 70% or greater your bud isn't dry enough to cure. Leave the bud out for an hour or two, put back in jars for a while and check again. If the meter reads between 65-70% just remove the tops of the jars for about 15 minutes. Once the bud hits 60-65% you are actively curing.

Also, great article on grow weed easy about all of this. It's what I used as a guide.

I do not have any scientific evidence of the first point, but all anecdotal evidence is that temperature swings are a bad thing.

I'm going to focus on number 2 because I've done a bunch of research on it with my own brews, and because I have background in mechanical engineering so talking about fluid/thermo makes me happy.

Starting early last year I made a series of 5 different beers, using various strains of yeast with various pitching amounts, appropriate to each beer's style and gravity (via MrMalty calculator).

I used a Fisher Scientific thermometer for all of my measurements, after checking it's calibration against freezing and boiling water (homebrewing is a science experiment, so lets use lab grade equipment!).

• First wanted to make sure I was getting accurate readings, so I filled the bucket with hot water and tried two different methods; sticking the probe directly into the liquid itself and taping it to the side of the bucket with a piece of packing foam covering it. The foam effectively creates an insulated area which stabilizes the skin temperature of the carboy at that location. I tried it at a variety of temperatures and found it was always within half a degree of the liquid inside (even for 150F water!). This meant from here on out I could easily take accurate spot checks without popping the lid.
  
  
• The variance in yeast strain and gravity between the 5 beers produced significantly different fermentation in each. The least vigorous was a slightly underpitched APA, which went pretty strong for 3-4 days and then slowly fermented out over an additional week. The most vigorous was a highly pitched belgian tripel, which nearly blew the top off for 2 days or so, then relaxed and finished dry over 5 more days. The temperature difference between the wort and the outside air varied accordingly; the APA was about 5F hotter during the active period, while the Belgian was 8-10F higher during it's most active period, peaking around 11F higher at one point. The other 3 examples fell within this range, but were generally 6-7F higher than ambient, when highly active. All 5 beers fell to within a degree of surrounding air temperature after the initial few days of strong fermentation / high kreusen.
  
  So, what's the point? The amount of difference you will have to compensate for will vary significantly according to each fermentation, and there is no real rule of thumb you can consistently use. Furthermore, if you decide to drop the temperature in the surrounding air to compensate, you'll need to monitor it pretty closely, since when the fermentation calms down you will want to bring it back up immediately or else your fermentation will get stuck.
  
  I invested in a temperature controlled fermentation fridge after making these 5 beers, and I haven't looked back. There really isn't any other way to insure consistent beer temperature without very meticulous monitoring, given the variability of fermentation heat generation. Having this done automatically for you both increases the quality of your beer and reduces your worries. It has completely eliminated the production of unwanted fusels, esters and phenols from my beers ever since (from hot fermentations) and I haven't had a stuck fermentation either. I use a controller built from the advice in this thread, paired up with a Sanyo 4912 and 2 feet of 11" Flexwatt. The tape is wrapped around the carboy/bucket, which is placed in the fridge itself. If it gets too hot, the fridge turns on; too cold and the Flexwatt turns on.
  

Everything looks good, but a little feedback.

First with your UVB Light unit, I see that you have selected a double bulb unit. In addition to the bulbs being quite expensive, the beardie doesn't need two of them in their cage. One is perfectly sufficient, so save your money and at least get a single bulb fixture. Also, feel free to use a dedicated fixture if you want, but a standard cheap household fixture like this is just fine. I paid $15 for this at my local store instead of a "reptile" fixture for $60. Edit: I just noticed you're going with a 4ft wide viv, so that may be why you're doing the 2 lamps fixture. If thats the case, disregard my comments about you not needing the second bulb. The standard rule is 2/3rds the length of the viv should be ran with uvb lamps so you may be on track.

Secondly, the 2 temp gauges are okay, but the stick on ones are known to be wildly inaccurate (especially since the thermometer will not be on the beardies basking spot). I don't even have thermometers in my viv, I decided to use this to monitor temps and it has been great. Especially as you move the furniture around the viv getting your setup finalized.

Third, you'll want a humidity gauge in there for sure. As you put food and water and whatnot in the viv, it can raise the humidity too high and cause respiratory infections. In fact they get a lot of their hydration from veggies and fruits so you may want to forego a water dish altogether (they're desert animals, after all). A lot of times they just poop in their water dish anyway.

Fourth, I'm assuming by the double dome fixture you're planning on a ceramic heater. Take a look at the lamp stand I posted in another comment so you can lift the lamps up away from the screen if needed. By the time you put something for him to bask on, he may be 12-14 inches in the air, you don't want the lamps only a few inches away or you may cook your lizard. I only have mine up in the air a couple inches, but it was necessary. When the lamps were resting on the screen his basking spot was up over 120 degrees. I can't tell from the website, but if your viv is not a screened top, the lamp stand may not work and if that's the case, your solution will be to either buy higher/lower wattage bulbs as needed, or maybe a dimmer.

Lastly, don't forget a reptile light timer. Cut corners somewhere to get one, but it will make your life so much easier and your beardie life so much less stressful.

Edit: No upvotes yet after all this typing? Help me out!! 😂😂

If that's all you're worried about, just go electric.

A thermometor gun runs you around $20, I've linked to one <$15 but can't attest to its quality. That's a drop in the bucket compared to anything else R/C will cost you. (A long-running battery will run you Closer to $30.) (Also, I love this E-bay seller. Highly recommend.) In general, a higher run time is achieved by having more mAh in a battery Usually 4,000 mAh is more than enough, especially if you have two or more batteries.)

If you find your motor getting too hot, you can buy a heatsync for it. Anything like this will work fine, even if it doesn't have a fan. Modifying the chassis to fit something like this can also be fun, if you're into it.

Also, here's a rundown on LiPo batteries, if you want to read in on them. It may seem like a lot to take in, but I promise that it's much simpler than a nitro engine, especially if you're just getting into the hobby.

Oh, and one more thing: if you don't want to deal with the relatively complicated LiPo batteries, you can simply power your car of choice with a NiMh battery, though these are generally more expensive (and offer lower performance) compared to a LiPo with the same mAh (run time). As a tradeoff, they are more durable, less volatile, and are much more of a "charge and forget" technology.

Feel free to ask around if you have any questions, the sub isn't very active but it never hurts to ask :)

Ok let me start at the beginning.

I now own my RadRover eBike for almost 7 months. Great bike, I'm closing in at 4000km on it. The bike is great but comes standard with a 48v battery and while it's decent, it doesn't compare to the Luna Dolphin 52v I run through it mostly.

I bought my 52v dolphin pack from luna cycle, as well as the advance 300 watt charger, their top model.

I always leave all my chargers plugged in even when not charging. None of my chargers have a problem except this advance charger I bought from luna.

After just 4 weeks the LCD stopped working that gave out the voltage read out, I had it warrantied, they send me a new LCD. And the weird thing is they had me manually open up the charger and do the replacement myself, rather then sending in the unit for exchange.

4 Weeks later the same LCD blew. I kept using the charger for another 2 months, and then the charger stopped working all together. I contacted support again, and they told me that the chargers are not very durable and should not be moved around, I told them it was in the same spot in my garage but they refused to replace it. They send me a 2Amp 52v charger instead, ($35)

I got pretty fed up.

I went to youtube to look for other options and I came across this a video of a Swedish guy who build his own charger.

Components looked solid and I have my own printer so I can customize it so I thought why not.

The whole reason this and many other chargers like this are failing is due to poor cooling, they have a 1x1" fan to cool as 12" box thats loaded with crap, this is why I wanted to do my own design that would focus around cooling.

Here is what I ordered

$12 - 2 of Bgears b-Blaster 90mm 2 Ball Bearing High Speed Extreme Airflow Fan

• https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0043GQJ5M/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  getting returned * $45 - LETOUR Power Supply 12V 40A 500W AC 110V/220V Voltage Converter
  
• https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01HRLNJ0M/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  $22 - DROK® Digital Multimeter DC 6.5-100V 20A Voltage Amperage Power Energy Meter
  
• https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B017FSED9I/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  $45 - Yeeco Numerical Control DC DC Boost Voltage Converter, 6-60V to 6-90V 10A 600W
  
• https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06ZXYL8PK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  $36 - DROK DC-DC Numerical Control Step Down Voltage Converter, 6-65V to 0-60V 8A 400W
  
• https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MSJQAKY/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  $13 - Yeeco DC Motor Speed Control Driver Board 3V-35V 5A PWM Controller
  
• https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00XJH2978/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  $11 - DIGITEN DC 12V LED Digital Thermometer -50-220F Fahrenheit Temperature + Temp Probe Red
  
• https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00VJ8JS14/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  $7 - Switch I had one already but something like this will work
  
• https://www.amazon.ca/SODIAL-Light-Illuminated-Rocker-Switch/dp/B00ZE9T0XK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1509649542&sr=8-7&keywords=on+off+switch
  
  $10 - Screws I also had to mount the controllers + power supply to the PLA
  
  $3 - LED Lights
  
• https://www.amazon.ca/ZHUOTOP-Flexible-Strip-Waterproof-Popular/dp/B01DVYMP9K/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1509649670&sr=1-5&keywords=12v+led+strip
  
  $8 - Header Set of raisers x 2
  
• https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B012C598XU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  $25 - PLA Wasted about 1 roll
  
  total 212 CAD or $165 US
  
  I've been printing for a couple months now so still a noob, and learning how to create in fusion 360, but for a first project it turned out pretty good.
  
  I first tried this with a 500 watt 12V 40AMP power supply, which i though would work great with the step up converter to bring it up to 58.8v for my 52v battery, but it didn't, it's actually kinda bullshit advertising.
  
  the 600 Watt step up converter I bought can only step up to 600 watts at 60v, at 12v it can only output 120 watts, 10a x 12v. Basically this charger could only charge at 120 watts / 58.8v, roughly 2 amps, or what a basic shitty charger that comes with the bike can do. No point of going through all this to make a 2 amp charger.
  
  So I opted to switch to a 48v power supply, so i can get close to 480 watts out of the charger.
  
  The new power supply came in and I got it up and running, but for the hell of me could not charge at more then 4 amps, I tested with bigger wires, and I didn't know why it was dropping to 30v under load. Then as i was putting it away for return, I saw the stupid small side switch that was set on 220v instead of 110v. I swapped it over to 110v, and viola the charger was flying at just over 7 amps, 7 x 53v or almost 400 watts.
  
  Now it was time to build a case for this thing.
  
  I designed the case in fusion 360 with cooling in mind, so I put 2 high cfm fans in, one at the top blowing air out, and the one on the bottom sucking air in.
  
  Since the power supply is almost the size of my 300mm print bed, I knew I had to print it in 2 pieces and assemble it after.
  
  Final assembly is still in progress, I have everything mounted in, cables hidden as much as I could, waiting on more black PLA, so i can reprint the top and make the bottom translucent with the LEDs behind.
  
  I'm also waiting on more raisers to come, so I can bring the adjustable LCD for the Step up converter above the front cover. This way I can switch between the pre-sets I programed in, 48V Slow / Fast / Preserve ( 85% ) & 52V Slow / Fast / Preserve ( 85% )
  
  I have a temp gauge in and it's showing a good 10 degrees cooler with the fans on. The whole idea of the fans is just to make a wind tunnel through the whole case. The step up and step down converter fans have been removed as they are not needed anymore. I also added a variable DC-DC knob thingy so I can adjust the fan speed, depending how fast I charge.
  
  Before you say You shouldn't charge at such high amps, I actually charge around 6 amps on my 52v which has the upgraded high discharge rate cells and can handle alot more then 6 amps. And for the 48v stock battery I just run it at 3 Amps all day and it's pretty happy.
  
  Questions ?
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  video of Nexi and his project
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vGrBT_P9Xfc
  
  

Ill try to go over your concerns, i hate quote posts but here we go.

>so I got the 40 gallon

Good choice

> Warm Light

Consider that your dragon will need temps from 90 - 100f 10 hours a day in his basking spot down to no lower than the upper 70's in his chilling spot. Buy [This](https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer- Temperature/dp/B00JA3BMDW/ref=sr_1_3? ie=UTF8&qid=1482273280&sr=8-3&keywords=ir+thermometer+gun) no really, go buy it now.

If that bulb which sounds like its one of the little spotlights can keep your tank to that temp then great, if not you want to look at heating solutions, a ceramic heat bulb is a favourite, relatively low cost and high heat out put, very high so be careful ive clocked mine at over 220f.

> I set everything up including adding the sand to the bottom

Nope. I mean shes your pet but sand is harmful, especially to a young lizard, you will notice they lick EVERYTHING this means all that sand may build up and cause compaction, which is where the content of the gullet presses against the spinal cord eventually severing it. Key Hint: Never feed your lizard a item of food larger than the space between its eyes.

I would use kitchen paper for now as she will be a little poop monster but eventually switch out to tile, you can use chia seeds or the like as a bathing area for her to dig.

The size of the tank can be a problem, just slide a cardboard divider in half the tank, you will be taking it out soon enough.

Now, regarding food. In the juvenile stage you should be feeding her exclusively protein based foods, insects, then after a few months move to some greens uptill adulthood where it should be no more than 80% greens to 20% insects.

This si where it gets fun, those dried flukers insects you bought, go throw them away, one of the largest problems with keeping dragons is hydrating them they dont really drink, they absorb moisture through their food and skin, feeding them dried food means they have to use moisture to digest it, so rather than be a gain its a loss, im surprised they even sell that trash.

What i and many would reccomend is the good old dubia blaptica. The NUMBER one best feeder and the worlds worst roach. Many of us keep a small colony of these things as free feeders as you will notice the cost of insects is going to be one of the highest, there are many many good sites online to guide you in this process, in the meantime try to avoid crickets, they smell and are noisy.

UV light wise, as long as it is a strip light and INSIDE the tank (the UVB she needs is 99% reflected by glass) and she can be in bright direct light for at least 10 hours a day she will be fine.

A couple of quick questions. How is her warm side heated? Under-tank heating is pretty much required, but supplemental heat from lights or a CHE can be added as needed. Be sure to monitor the temps for a couple days after adding supplemental heat, to make sure you aren't overheating your leo. You can get a lamp dimmer from Home Depot (or maybe even Wal-mart) to dial back the heat as needed.

How are you monitoring temperatures? I strongly recommend an infrared temp gun to measure surface temps rather than air temps. Especially on the warm side, surface temps are the most important--leos absorb heat through their belly to power their digestive process. As you know, insufficient surface temps will slow or halt digestion, and your leo will not eat.

How does Luna look? Is she stick thin, or a little fat? Post a picture if you can. If her weight is good, she's fine to go a week or two without food. Perhaps she doesn't need to eat as much as you're trying to feed her, and she's rejecting food because she isn't hungry? If she looks healthy enough for it, give her a dish of mealworms (don't let crickets run loose in her enclosure--they will bite her and cause infection) and otherwise don't feed her. If everything else is good, she will eventually get hungry and eat the food available.

Remember, as cold blooded animals, reptiles don't need to burn calories to maintain their body temps. Therefore, they can eat a surprisingly small amount. Growing hatchlings and juveniles actually eat far more than adults.

I'm probably the 30th person to suggest this, but if he's into beer and science and technology AND DIY, you seriously need to consider homebrewing.

You need to figure out if you want to bottle or keg, but I would ONLY suggest kegging, because bottling is dangerous (if you have too much sugar and hungry yeast, your bottles will explode). If you DO want to homebrew, I would suggest getting a kegerator and soda kegs. It's relatively compact, can hold up to 10 gallons if you set up two soda kegs, and has wheels.

You'll need a 6 gallon glass carboy with a lifting harness. I wouldn't suggest using the metal rim grip kind because it chipped our carboy. The nylon harness you see in this picture would be a good substitute, it just makes it so you can more easiliy lift 5 gallons of liquid. You'll also need a bubbler plug, which is very inexpensive. Probably the cheapest thing, aside from the hops bags.

You'll also need a thermometer (infrared is a better option than a dip thermometer because it'll protect your hands better)

If you're going with a kegerator, you'll need CO^2, which they usually sell and fill at the homebrew store.

You'll also need a giant, stainless steel kettle. Actually if you buy a turkey frying kit, it has everything you'll need except a propane tank (which you can rent at the grocery store).

The most important object though, is probably an auto siphon

You'll also need sanitizing powder. You can use bleach, but then you run the risk of bleaching other stuff.

They should have all this stuff at your homebrew store, and definitely ask them for help. They'll also have recipes there you can grab for free, and can suggest a good recipe for beginners based on what type of beer he likes.

Everything Rupert said. Youll need at least two hides (one on the cool side, one on the hot), bedding they can burrow in (like aspen shavings), a wide and shallow water bowl, and you need an appropriate heat gradient in your tank. I'd reccomend purchasing a temperature gun (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-Thermometer-Temperature-Non-contact/dp/B00DMI62HM/ref=pd_aw_lpo_328_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B8X0RMRJVYPW27N07V3X), so that you can check the temperautures all around your tank while you set it up. I'd reccomend setting everything up and letting it run for at least a week or so while you ensure that everything is working smoothly before adding a snake to it. Google either "california king snake caresheet" or "corn snake care sheet" and read through the results for specifics of what they'd need. Care for both is relatively simple and nearly the same, and either would make a good beginner snake. I'd also add branches to climb on (that they may or may not use much, depending on your snake), and lots of things to clutter up the tank (hides, foliage, various decor). The more clutter, the more secure your snake feels. But I will warn you, baby snakes won't be seen much, amd they're very flighty. The first year or so with either of those your tank will look like it's empty 99% of the time, and they'll basically try to run away every time you get them out. But they'll warm up to you as they get bigger, and my corn (whose nearing three) is one of my favorite pets I've ever had. Hmm, what else. I'd reccomend feeding them frozen/thawed mice that you've warmed up instead of live mice. You can get them at nearly every pet store or you can buy them in bulk. Google snake mice injuries or look through this sub for pictures of mice attacks to see why, they can mess an animal up. Don't take your snake out of the enclosure to feed, cage aggression is a myth as long as you hold them sometimes. The snake will need a tank that's about 40 gallons when it's an adult, I wouldn't reccomend keeping them in a 20 long forever like some people say. Don't forget a thermostat, it could save a snakes life. It's absolutely necessary if you use an under tank heater. Don't ever, for ANY reason, leave your lid off of the tank. Not even for a second. There's also no reason to not have snake clips for the tank, or to leave any hole at all in the tank. They can escape so easily. And don't put any tape in the enclosure at all. Super glue and a hot glue gun are your best friends (as long as those aren't applied to the snake or put in the enclosure before dry), and tape of any sort will rip the scales off of your friend and leave nasty wounds.

I guess people want to know a little more. There's plenty of tutorials online, so do some google work if you want a more in-depth description.

Materials/Tools:

• Kydex V .080" (I got 12"x12" 8pack on amazon)
  
• Balsa wood (local hardware or craft store, I got mine at Menards)
  
• Clip (Pick which one you like, I found a 2 pack with hardware on amazon)
  
• Painters tape (had some lying around)
  
• vacuum food bags (You can use this or a foam press or zip-lock bag if you're careful)
  
• IR thermometer (I got one on amazon for 14, but you can find cheaper ones for sub $10)
  
• Dremmel or bandsaw
  
• Sandpaper (either hand sand or belt sander or sander attachment for dremel)
  
• heatgun for loosening a few places
  
  Process:
  
  
• Use the balsa wood to cover spots you don't want the holster to be formed in. I covered up the trigger area, the right side of the breech where most pistols eject casings, a line from the front to rear sights, and a line back from the slide release.
  
• Set your gun down on one of the kydex sheets to mark out how much material you need. I used a little less than half of one of the sheets. I then did a loose guess of "roll the gun over to see how far I need to go", and cut off what I needed.
  
• Get your vacuum bag or foam press or gallon zip-lock back ready. I think the food vacuum bags are easiest, but if you don't have one lying around, I've heard you can use a zip-lock bag, a rag, and a floor vacuum with a hose. Most tutorials online use a foam press. I'd say this gives you the best results, but costs the most, and requires replacing the foam after 5-10 holsters.
  
• Heat up the kydex to the proper temperature (The kydex V I linked I think forms best at 300-315), use the IR gun to get the temperature right. If you go too hot, the kydex will "burn", it gets all shiny (The stuff linked "burns" probably around 360-380).
  
• Once it gets up to temperature, pull it out, wrap your gun with it, and compress it. The kydex I linked has a shiny and a matte side. I used it with the matte side out, but if you like a glossy look, go for it. Like I said, I used a vacuum food bag (they're safe to use in the oven, so it can handle 320 degree plastic), your mileage will vary. If you use a zip-lock bag, you might need to put a rag around it so it doesn't melt the bag
  
• Let cool. Once cooled down, anywhere from 2 minutes to 15 minutes (depends if you use your actual gun or a mold gun, and if you use foam or etc). You can use the IR reader to see what temp it is, under 140 should be good, but other spots may be warmer. The gun acts as a heatsink. The hottest spot is where the kydex is all by it's lonesome.
  
• Pull your gun out and start going to work
  
• I used a bandsaw to cut out the general shape, and a dremel with a sanding head to get it just right.
  
• Sand to your heart's content.
  
• You may need to reheat the trigger area specifically if you're having trouble pulling the firearm out. I used my heatgun on low.
  
• Decide where you want to mount your clip(s). If you want to mount your clips where the gun is, before you mold, put some balsa wood there so the hardware doesn't scratch your gun.
  
• Drill holes for the hardware. I used a 13/64 bit which worked perfectly for my hardware which is supposedly 1/4, but use what ever bit you need for whatever hardware your clip needs.
  
• Make sure you have positive retention, but not so much where you can't pull the gun out. Kydex lets the gun out much easier with a quick pull, rather than a lengthy one. The main area for catching is the trigger guard. What ever is catching, heat it up just enough with the heatgun for it to open up.
  
  And then you're basically all done. It took me probably an hour or less. Total cost for one holster (because I was able to make 2 holsters off of one 12"x12" sheet), was about $6-$7, with the bulk of the cost being the clips. I'll try and answer any other questions others have.

Okay, I was on mobile earlier so I couldn't tell you everything I wanted to. Those stick-on thermometers aren't very reliable and they measure the ambient temperature - you need to be able to measure the temperature on his basking spot. I use one of these which are pretty cheap from amazon. His basking spot should be right around 105F. It is pretty important that you get a good thermometer and find a bulb that gives you the correct temperatures.

The other issue is his UVB lights. Those tank kits usually come with coil UVB bulbs, which do not give out adequate UVB for beardies and have been known to cause eye problems as well. This ReptiSUN 10.0 bulb is the one you need for a 40 gallon tank. It will fit in this plug-in fixture (the plastic cover needs to be removed and thrown away). This thread on bd.org explains how to set up proper lighting. I highly recommend reading through this care guide to double-check the rest of your setup and husbandry.

Please let me know how Hagrid is doing and if you have any other questions! :)

I've done that as well. But I found that with just the light on, the temp can get to the 90-100F range over a couple hours in my cheap apartment oven. I cooked some starter that way. I've had better success with a tiny heat pad used for reptiles.The tiny 4-watt one is still pretty hot, but with some dish towels placed on top, it works really well.

I use one of these to monitor the temp. It's kinda awesome and fun.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JA3BMDW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

I left some comments on the imgur album, but overall it was a great success. It was my first time making pizza and learned couple things along the way.

• Bricks are great in a pinch, but if you have small spacers like these (or get some from here). It'll allow more heat distribution by having an air gap.
  
• Too low in BGE = scorch the bottom of the pizza; Too High in BGE = scorch the top of the pizza
  
• Less toppings/sauce = higher temp (dome ~700F/ plate ~450F) = low cook time (Neapolitan style)
  
• More toppings/sauce = lower temp (dome ~500F/ plate ~300F) = long cook time (american style)
  
• Cornmeal is key to getting pizza on and off.
  
• As temperature goes down, each pizza took longer to make. 1st pizza was around ~4min, 2nd pizza was around 6 minute, so on. I had to refuel to get it back up to 700F after 4th pizza.
  
  Specs:
  
  
• Medium Big Green Egg
  
• 12.5'' pizza stone
  
• ~8 inch personal pizzas
  
  Pizza stone I used
  
  Infrared Thermometer
  
  Can't wait to try it again next weekend! Send me some more tips!

pet stores are actually known to NOT (or rarely) carry thermostats, which is one of the reasons why a lot of people don't know you need them.

you can buy them on amazon, pay for fast shipping (this one is widely used)

same for the gun, any cheap one is fine (i use this one)

if you can only get one, definitely get the thermostat as it's one of the most important things

so at petsmart just pick up hides and the aspen bedding. ideally both hides should be the same. get a hide that looks pretty small! you would be surprised at how small my hides are compared to how big my snake is. they can really squeeze in there and feel secure. if the hide is too big, it won't make them feel safe.

i would recommend joining this forum, there are a ton of people there who have been keeping snakes 10+ years who can better answer your questions.

Aww jeez, Rick. That doesn't look good. I think the technical term for that is "cratered".

My guess would honestly be that the chip itself overheated due to the high current. This is a problem for a heatsink and maybe a fan. I hesitate to say this though, because both the trace AND the chip are utterly destroyed. Maybe a bad solder joint on the chip caused it to overheat?

Are you willing to sacrifice another channel of that board? Might be worth hooking up a stepper in such a way that it's permanently stalled and just running it until it pops, while carefully monitoring the board's temperature. You should at the very least be able to tape down a thermocouple with kapton, and they sell cheap dual K-type thermocouples with a digital readout on Amazon. I've personally had this one to over 700C, and while it DEFINITELY didn't like it and the insulation burned up, it still works. The best solution here is definitely a thermal camera, and if you can afford it you'll be able to pinpoint where the heat is coming from - the traces or the chip.

A good experiment would be to get a thermometer or thermal camera, and hook up one channel with a heatsink and one without. Monitor both chip's temperatures and see how hot they get, again with the motor stalled. The A4983 is supposed to be good to 150C before it detonates according to the datasheet, although it definitely won't be performing well at that temperature. If you see it getting close (within 20C or so) of that temperature, it's likely just not dissipating enough heat.

Would be very interested to see the redesign, if you decide to do one. If you haven't yet read Dave Jones' PCB layout tutorial, I suggest you do. Lots of really great information there, particularly about making your circuit boards neat and professional, not just so they work.

Minor edit: just thinking about the traces, remember that the ACTUAL current can be much higher than intended when you're working with motors or other large inductive loads. A "2A" limit can turn into 20A if something causes a large acceleration on the motor (like a robotic arm hitting a stop and stalling). That'll fry your trace if you specced it for 2A. Make the power traces big and fat. Bigger. Unless you're squeezing the other traces thinner (not just closer), you can go very large with your power traces. You're paying a flat rate for the amount of copper on the board, use it all. Don't squeeze out the ground plane (it's just as important) and don't squeeze the other traces too thin, but if there's any feel free to use it.

The directions on the site are pretty clear regarding the stir fry pan.

If you have difficulty judging temperature I recommend getting one of those infrared thermometer guns:

Something similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Non-Contact-Thermometer-Temperature-Functional/dp/B00QYX6F5G

Then you just point and read.

Here are the use directions from the website for the nonstick stir fry pan:

-=-=-=-=-

GETTING STARTED
Remove all packaging and labels. Wash the pan in hot, soapy water. Rinse and dry thoroughly.
Condition the interior nonstick cooking surface by rubbing a film of vegetable or corn oil over the entire cooking surface with a paper towel. Rinse the pan with hot water and dry thoroughly. The pan is now ready for use.
Occasional re-conditioning will help protect the surface and promote a longer life. Do not condition the black exterior.


BEFORE FIRST USE

Remove all packaging and labels. Wash the pan in hot, soapy water, then rinse and dry thoroughly. Your pan is now ready to be used and does not require any further preparation.
When frying in an uncoated pan, season the food only after searing on the hot surface. Turn food only when the surface has seared and is easily released. Reduce the temperature after searing.


HEAT RECOMMENDATIONS

Use medium and low heat settings for the majority of cooking on all heat sources, and allow the pan to heat gradually and evenly.
When searing meat, poultry or fish, a medium high heat can be used initially, but once the pan is hot and the food added, the heat should be lowered.


The pan should never be used on the highest heat setting for either preheating or cooking. Excessive surface temperatures will damage the nonstick cooking surface. See section on details of misuse.
Always use a stovetop burner that is similar in size to the base of the pan. Gas flames must always be confined to the base area and never extend up the sidewalls of the pan.


On any glass-topped stove always lift the pan to move it. Never slide the pan, as this may cause damage to the stovetop or the base of the pan.


The maximum safe temperature for oven use is 500°F / 260°C. When used under a hot broiler there should be a minimum distance of two inches (5cm) between the heat source and the top rim of the pan.



TOOLS TO USE

Le Creuset Silicone Tools are recommended. You can also use wooden or heat-resistant plastic tools.


Metal tools, spoons or balloon whisks may be used with care, but should not be used harshly or scraped over the nonstick surface. Do not knock these on the top rim of the pan. Knives or other utensils with sharp edges should never be used to cut foods on the nonstick surface. Hand-held electric or battery-operated beaters should not be used on the nonstick surface.


Always use an oven mitt or silicone Cool Tool™ when handling a hot pan during and after cooking.


OILS AND FATS

Add a little oil or fat to the cooking surface before heating begins. This will improve the flavor and browning of foods. At no time should the oil or fat become hot enough to smoke. If this occurs, cool the pan before proceeding. For fat-free cooking, preheat the pan on a medium heat setting for approximately two minutes before adding the food.


Do not leave the pan unattended during this time or allow the dry nonstick surface to overheat, as permanent damage may occur.


FOOD STORAGE AND MARINATING

Do not store raw, marinating or cooked foods in the pans. The ingredients may damage the surface.


CLEANING AND CARE

Cool the pan for a few minutes before cleaning. Do not plunge a hot pan into cold water.


Only recommended nonstick cleaning pads should be used on the nonstick surfaces. Do not use any metal or abrasive pads or abrasive cleaning agents on any of the surfaces.


The pan is dishwasher-safe, but washing by hand is recommended. Simply wash with hot, soapy water, and rinse and dry thoroughly. If the pan is regularly washed in the dishwasher some darkening of the rivets and outer ring of the base may occur, or a powdery white deposit may form. This is normal and will not affect the performance of the pan. The surface dulling or white deposits can be removed by carefully cleaning the affected areas with a gentle nylon pad and detergent. After cleaning, rinse and dry thoroughly.


Each time the pan is cleaned in the dishwasher, the cooking surface should be re-conditioned with vegetable or corn oil before the next use.


LE CREUSET HEAT-RESISTANT GLASS LIDS

Add another dimension to cooking with a Le Creuset Forged Hard-Anodized pan by using a Le Creuset heat-resistant glass lid. The tempered glass lid allows you to check the recipe without disturbing the cooking progress or temperature. It retains moisture and flavor and converts the pan to one for poaching, braising or casseroling. The lids are oven-safe up to 425°F.


MISUSE OF THE NONSTICK SURFACE

The Le Creuset lifetime warranty does not cover damage to the nonstick surface caused by overheating or scratching.

Overheating: Damage from overheating during cooking is instantly recognizable. The nonstick surface becomes discolored, and in severe cases will blister or peel away from the pan.

Scratching: Score marks or severe scratching caused by heavy use of metal tools is not covered by the warranty. Such damage is permanent and will result in a reduction of the nonstick release performance.

-=-=-=-=-

One thing you'll learn with the ecobee and the heat pump is that you'll have to do a lot of the learning. The thermostat just doesn't have the data needed to figure out the best settings for your particular set up, and there is no "the way" for each system. I highly recommend spending the money on a laser temperature gun to measure the air coming out of your vents to judge whether or not your system is running ok without aux especially once the temps drop below 30 (assuming you change the ecobee defaults for this). Just feeling it won't be enough - once you get in the teens there's a chance you are blowing out 90 degree air. Warm enough to hopefully keep your place warm, but will still feel slightly cool to the touch.

They are pretty damn cheap and now that I have one I went around checking for cold spots, measuring skillet temps, pointing at my wife, etc. Definitely got my twenty bucks worth.

This site has a pretty good explanation of what i am talking about with thermostats.

Unfortunately proportional thermostats are not cheap. A basic model is general >$80 (USD). Herpstat by Spyder Robotics is the most best around from everyone I talk to.

Honestly, before i dropped that kind of $, I would put in a 75 Watt bulb and check temperatures to see if you even need a thermostat. Too hot, try a 50watt and see if that is better.

Re: checking temps. I would suggest one of these they are cheap and fairly accurate.

You can pick up a point and read infrared thermometer for around $30-$60 from most local tool vendors in your area. Typically if they have car repair stuff they will carry them. Something similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-AR550-Mini-Infrared/dp/B000MX5Y9C

I mainly print ABS myself, but the concerns I know of with PLA printing are:

1. PLA conducts heat ridiculously well and can sometimes expand inside the extruder bore if you do not have an active cooling fan on the extruder body.
   
2. PLA is sensitive to Humidity much more than ABS, so you will need to take more care to store it in a sealed, preferably desiccant rich environment between prints.
   
3. PLA smells like sugar when you print it, but it does not taste like candy at all. I keep trying to get the PLA producers to fix that but none of them will return my phone calls anymore for some reason... (just kidding)

WA state medical patient with RA and wanting to do a real grow for almost a decade. Helped a few friends with their grows and trim sessions over the years and also attempted a few outdoor hidden grows with little success (bad weather, theft, pests/animals). Finally decided to save up and do it properly now that I have space indoors. I have been lurking /r/microgrowery for over a year now and have learned a lot and want to thank you all for everything you do. I also want to thank the YouTubers Growing With Mr.Tight, JustinTime2Grow, and medgrower1 for also being excellent resources. Now onto the details:

 

    Equipment

Gorilla Grow Tent 4x4

2x 600w MH / HPS lights for a total of 1200w. 75w per sq. ft.

400 CPM 6in In-Line Fan

Phresh Filter 400 CFM

Hygrometer

TDS Meter

Infrared Thermometer

Grow Room Glasses

 

    Plants

Blue Dream - DJ Short x Santa Cruz Haze. 80% Sativa / 20% Indica. 7-8 week flower cycle

Boy Scout Cookies - Girl Scout Cookies Thin Mint x Pre-98 Bubba Kush. 60% Indica / 40% Sativa. 8 week flower cycle.

Darth Vader Haze - 4-way Black Haze Black Cross. 100% Sativa. 9-10 week flower cycle.

Grand Daddy Purple - Big Bud x Purple Urkle. Indicia Dominant. 8-9 week flower cycle.

 

    Grow Medium and Feed

5 gal Smart Pots

Fox Farm Ocean Forest Soil

Fox Farm Trio

18-6 Lighting cycle for veg. full 1200w of MH.

Using tap water and PH Down (is around 8.0 right out of the tap). I let the water sit for at least a few hours to let any chemicals leech out into the air and bring it closer to room temp.

 

The GDP went in almost a full day later. It was a younger clone and I was worried about the transplanting shocking it, but turned out fine. One of my MH bulbs had bits of broken glass in the outer part and didn't work so I had to wait on a replacement arrived on day 6. Also I ordered the wrong size Phresh filter and am waiting for the refund to process so I can get the right size. Temps have been hovering around 80F ambient with the lights on and 40% RH.
Temp minimum during dark cycle is 68-70F and humidity maxed out around 85% RH.

First watering with nutrients will be as soon as the soil dries a bit more (still damp at knuckle deep). Will be doing a half strength of the Big Bloom for the first feed likely tomorrow morning an hour or so after the lights kick on.

I eventually want to get an 8x4 to use as a flower tent and have the 4x4 as a veg tent to set up a perpetual grow. I am also seriously looking at the GrowBlu lights for veg when I do this, the results I am seeing from the guys on YouTube using them just looks amazing. I also want to switch over to en Ebb and Flow type system instead of soil when I do that, but that is something I need to look into much more.

The temp gun is nice for when you're experimenting with different setups, or if you want to check if you've let the steel reheat enough between pies. There's plenty of reasonably cheap ones on Amazon. I have this one and it seems perfectly adequate.

Imo the steel is best for pretty thin crusts -- thicker needs to be cooked at lower temp for longer (Sicilian-style), or pan-style in some cast iron.

so this is the small reader lots of us like to use

https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Thermocouple-Thermometer-Dual-Channel-Thermocouples/dp/B071V7T6TZ/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_rm?ac_md=3-3-dGhlcm1vY291cGxlIHRoZXJtb21ldGVy-ac_d_rm&keywords=thermocouple&pd_rd_i=B071V7T6TZ&pd_rd_r=3e8ebea1-82c3-486e-953e-e635e8fe5f04&pd_rd_w=IaPyI&pd_rd_wg=EdCwI&pf_rd_p=d29bc9bc-49e2-46b8-bc05-387917c341ec&pf_rd_r=SWVR70TWEY8C09VTBR46&qid=1568747104&s=gateway

but those plastic coated probes are probably not very food safe.

https://www.amazon.com/PerfectPrime-TL1815-HeadProbe-Thermocouple-Temperature/dp/B0142RXG84/ref=sr_1_4?crid=13PYZH2BI268S&keywords=type%2Bk%2Bthermocouple&qid=1568747092&s=gateway&sprefix=type%2Bk%2Bthermo%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-4&th=1

that works pretty well. the downside is since it's just a wire, it can easily get moved around and then you'll get different readings at different times.


i'm trying to use something more stiff/firm like this

https://www.amazon.com/PerfectPrime-TL1815-HeadProbe-Thermocouple-Temperature/dp/B01MU29Q3Z/ref=sr_1_4?crid=13PYZH2BI268S&keywords=type%2Bk%2Bthermocouple&qid=1568747092&s=gateway&sprefix=type%2Bk%2Bthermo%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-4&th=1

I'd recommend picking up a humidity meter and one of these. 45-55% is the right spot for a guitar if I remember right - the D'addario system maintains quite well right around 50% anytime I check the case.

When you aren't playing it keep the guitar in the case with the packets. You can probably find ways to do it for cheaper but this is a super easy way. I'm still on my first set of those humidity packets and I got them in December. Keep the case closed when the guitar is out so they'll last longer.

For acoustic guitars especially keeping proper humidity is a big deal. I neglected this for a while and just happen to be lucky to live in a place where the humidity is mostly in the right range. However if we have an extra dry/rainy few days the ambient humidity can swing from 30-80% and I definitely notice the effect on the guitars if I leave them out. An old roommate of mine had a guitar that was totally f'ed up from not being humidified properly.

If you have any issues with your guitar, give it a week or so in an environment w/ the proper humidity. That may resolve the issues without you taking an unnecessary trip to a repair shop.

All sensorless brushless motors are virtually waterproof but they should still be dried out after being submerged. The best way for me is to run it for a while to let it dry then spraying a little lubricant in afterwards. Do not trust the ESC to be waterproof, that's the mistake I made with mine. There are plenty of videos on Youtube that demonstrate how to do it.

Invest in one of these temp guns because they'll save you more money down the road. Checking by hand isn't very helpful because anything over 120 will feel very hot. Your motor can go up to 180 and the ESC can go up to 160.

If your temp gun has emissivity settings, then you can adjust the number to get an accurate reading on shiny surfaces. But of course if you can't adjust the emissivity, then something black and matte is the best to get a reading from. That bbq paint is a good idea.

I picked up this guy a while back, https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B00JA3BMDW it great, and allows changing the emissivity setting to get accurate temp across a wide range of materials.

Also make sure you stay fairly close to a 1:1 ratio for your "distance to spot size" or you risk your measuring area to be too wide and may get some inaccurate readings.

Order a thermometer gun. Cheap and accurate. Heat mat goes on the outside of the glass on bottom of tank so they can warm their bellies. Usually they have a sticky side so you can stick it to the bottom of the tank. Keep to one side so theres a warm side and cool side of tank. Reptile carpet or tile is the best substrate- there is a pinned post at the top of the subreddit that has more info.

I have this one https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Temperature-Non-contact-Thermometer-Adjustable/dp/B00JCFPODM. Works great and regularly goes on sale for $12. Any options mentioned will work great for checking temps.

If you can afford it (say $70) - don't get a Thermapen, get a K Type thermocouple brain and a food-grade submersible probe.

The brains are universal and cheap (and read up to two probes independently)

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Channel-Digital-Thermometer-Thermocouple/dp/B00FFYEPVQ/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1483083745&sr=8-9&keywords=K+type

The probe looks like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Atkins-50360-K-Thermocouple-Stainless-Temperature/dp/B00DYC9ZUW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483083631&sr=8-1&keywords=K+type+thermocouple+food

Apart from these two pieces, you need a 9V battery. Some 3M foam tape is also good if your dad does Sous Vide. These thermocouples allow for constant probe readings the way you'd use an old fashioned roasting probe, except you can use this under water, in oil, in a smoker, on a grill, in a fridge, or in a pan. For things that overcook quickly or are blind cooked, this is the best thermal tool you can get right now.

also, if you want to know specific temperatures, purchase a laser thermometer, like this (https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Non-Contact-Thermometer-Temperature-Functional/dp/B00QYX6F5G). I use something like this to know what temperature my pan is, so that I know it's hot enough for seasoning, or perfect temperature for cooking.

You can check your video ram temps by using something like this. If you don't have a back plate you should be able to point it straight at the chip. I've been thinking about getting those stick on copper heatsinks since my 970 doesn't have a back plate. I'd like to put some better cooling on my (VRM) voltage regulator module chips too.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMI62HM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687702&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002YE3FS4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1E6ZZE71SQA8XEQK8M9M

I'd recommend a digital temperature gauge with a probe or a temp gun. The temp gun would most likely be best. Downside is temp guns are a bit expensive sometimes but their worth it in the long run.

https://www.amazon.com/ANGGO-Non-contact-Temperature-Thermometer-Precisely/dp/B01FYVEJMY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1527639624&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=temp+gun&psc=1

This is the temp gun I use but it seems to be currently out of stock.

However this one should be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=sr_1_3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1527639624&sr=1-3&keywords=temp+gun

As far as UVB goes I'd get this bulb and fixture for both of the beardies. It will probably be a bit bigger than their current tanks but it'll save money when you have to upgrade each of them to 75 gallons at the very least as that is the minimum for full grown beardies. Although 4x2x2 is preferred. Do note 20 gallons only last a beardie until 6 months of age and then they must be moved to their final enclosure or a 40, 50 or 55 gallon. If you go with the grow out tanks then those will last another 6 months before you need the final enclosure since preferably you want them moved into the final enclosure at 12 months.

https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-T5HO-Standard-Fixture-Reflector/dp/B01B209YQC/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1523586973&sr=1-5&keywords=t5+ho+fixture

\^ 34" T5 HO Fixture

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26062-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HKO/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00AQU8HKO&pd_rd_r=ZNH52XHETCP3Y7K5FGA2&pd_rd_w=GIi1G&pd_rd_wg=oAEwd&psc=1&refRID=ZNH52XHETCP3Y7K5FGA2&dpID=31QDwNV8eSL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

\^ 34" T5 HO 10.0

No worries at all, undertank heater, especially with a wooden ebclosure would want a thermostat just so it doesnt burn. What Ive done ia actually put the heat pad (you can buy these in stores buy Ill make sure to link one) and put tile over it. Tile is a lot safer and ironically more natural to them (arid rocky desert, not really sandy) and will conduct the heat well. To measure temp youll want a digital prob thermometer or what i ususlly recommend more so is a temp gun (will also link). Knowing temps is really important since all their metabolic functions depend on them. You want a 88-90 warm aidd and a 75f cool side. This allows them to regulate themselves.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=heat+pad+reptile

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019TRGYW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503263283&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=temp+gun+for+reptiles&dpPl=1&dpID=41Y5W8Q-7aL&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=theromostat+for+reptiles

Ah, yes - he did service the rear brakes as well, on the second to last rotor swap (just before the Brembo rotors).

I have a cheapie infrared thermometer - how hot is too hot for a rotor?

Thanks for the suggestions!

This one is useful for that and many other things. Good value.

I use this one and it has never failed. Just gotta make sure you are putting the sensor about an inch from the top of your banger. Don't use the laser to line it up, the laser is only to help aim at a large object from a few feet away!

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-Thermometer-Temperature-Non-contact/dp/B00DMI62HM/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=Temperature+gun&qid=1554348709&s=gateway&sr=8-4

there should be no reason to need any type of light, my house is at 70 and my Ball cage when he was in one stayed at 85ish in a 20 gallon tank, You definetly need a thermostat for the heat pad.
Ignore pretty much everything the pet store told you because most of them dont no crap about reptiles but how to sell a whole lot of stuff you dont need.

I also recommend getting a Infered thermometer similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Star-AR550-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B000MX5Y9C but look around they make them cheaper and do just as good.

the heating pad should be on the underside of the tank on the outside glass like so http://www.onlinegeckos.com/basic-leopard-gecko-tank-setup.html

Someone might know of a more technical answer, to repair or calibrate the oven - landlords job? But I would purchase a thermometer - this one is cheap, but fine - http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Atkins-24HP-01-1-Stainless-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B00125TABM

Then test and see how much hotter the set temperature is over the actual. If the oven is just running hot, you could just adjust how you dial up the oven (i.e. Set at 350 to bake at 400). Hopefully it's not a problem with the oven, where it's not cycling properly.

buy one of these and sleuth out some promising spots on google earth. definitely worth knowing the temp of any pool you're going to jump into.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-Thermometer-Temperature-Non-contact/dp/B00DMI62HM

Pretty sure this is Fahrenheit as you want to dry the jerky low and slow. And yes, your oven can likely go this low but, if you wonder, get one of the little inexpensive, in-the-oven thermometers to be sure.

A couple things that really help with a home set-up:

• Get one of those fancy extra-special private time Detachable Shower Heads. It will vastly improve your washouts ...especially if you're currently just relying on gravity for water pressure.
  
  
• Get a heat gun if you need an intermediate step between your hair dryer and a proper drying unit.
  
  
• No matter what your drying situation, you need to buy an infrared thermometer for curing.
  
  
• Until you get a press, you could consider picking up a ~ 18" x 18" piece of laminated melamine (Home Depot will cut it down for you) and a couple of one-hand clamps. The melamine is heat resistant so you can use it to print and to cure. And with the clamps, you can secure the bottom edge of your screen to the pallet and kind of simulate proper off-contact.

I've been having good luck with these in my enclosures. I have a number of them, and they all agree to within a degree with each other and my other trusted thermometers.

I also use an IR gun style thermometer. I originally had the 981D, but it read like 6 degrees low and the seller replaced it with the 981C which is as accurate as these thermometers typically are (IR reading change by type of materials and the finish on it, which changes emissivity).

Leaton Digital Thermocouple Thermometer Dual-channel LCD Backlight Temperature Meter Tester for K/J/T/E/R/S/N Great ( Batteries included ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018QHQSB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_58A5BbBE01YJ2 is what I got. I only use it with one channel but it supports 2

No problem! Apart from building the thing, you either need a MAX31855 type K thermocouple or a MAX31856 type S along with a fitting sensor probe with a ceramics enclosure that matches the type. The type defines what metals are used in measuring temperature in the thermocouple. Type K maxes out just around the temperatures you are dealing with but they are common and quite cheap. Type S has Platinum and can handle much higher temperatures and is therefore much more expensive and not that easy to find.

If you don't want to build anything and just want to read the temperature while you are at it, maybe something like this would work if you also got either a K or S probe to go with it: Amazon

The thing with pottery is that the part where everyhing goes is the kiln - twice - is very long and you want to log that data and monitor it remotely. The Arduino+MAX31855+Type K probe in the exhaust vent+Blynk was rather successful!

Another option over carafoam is flaked oats or flaked wheat. Regarding a better thermometers: I have http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Star-AR550-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B000MX5Y9C

But I used to have http://www.amazon.com/Extech-TM25-Waterproof-Temperature-Indicator/dp/B00CDQ28IG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1426957897&sr=1-1&keywords=waterproof+probe+thermometer

Both work really well. Maybe get both to double check?

IR thermometers are less than $20 on Amazon. I use one all the time in the kitchen to check the temperature of cast iron before making pizza or steak. Its a worthwhile investment least you'll know if the pan is hot enough.

Like this: Nubee Non Contact Infrared IR Thermometer, Orange/Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JCFPODM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_-RM.ub0X4J2C4

I'm on my 4th or 5th roast with the same setup and it's worked out well so far. I haven't had much to tweak, just:

• Replaced the plastic stirrer rod cap with a regular hex nut and some washers.
  
• Made a riser ring, 2" tall, from some aluminum sheet metal
  
• Disconnected the popper's heating element because it plus the oven was trying to draw over 20 amps. The element would cut out after a minute or two (heat limiter most likely) but I don't want to pop any breakers, and all the real heating comes from the oven not the popper.
  
  I haven't had to touch the stirrer rod yet. Monitoring the temperature of the beans is done with a digital thermometer, I simply shove the probe down into the beans. Feel free to hit me up with any other questions.

This is the one I got, works great

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009RUPQGW/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5G.mub0AB8NWB

Yep, it's a nice tool to have for a lot of different things. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI62HM?ref=emc_b_5_t

I recommend a digital infrared thermometer like this one

You can go on amazon, if you search “temp gun” the top ones are actually the same models that I bought from a head shop. Most people dab between 5 and 700 so I’d get one that can read in that range and maybe a little higher to gauge time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI62HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8XCWCb7F8SVZG

This one looks just like mine and I think would do everything you need.

Sure it could be condensation. A non contact thermometer may help you:

https://www.amazon.ca/HDE-Non-Contact-Infrared-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B009RUPQGW

If that area is cold, the moisture could be condensing on it.

A cheap thermocouple will go a long ways with this (and future diagnostics). I got one from amazing for about 20$.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FFYEPVQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Alternatively - you could just replace the resistor with a 4.7k pull up - which would cost all of 50cents.

get one of these things
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Star-AR550-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B000MX5Y9C
really convenient for checking the temperature of soups when you're heating them up and for making custard. health inspector should be impressed too, they use the same thing.

get one of these things too
http://www.daymarksafety.com/date-coders/
instead of having to write out dates with a sharpie you just click this thing and slap a sticker with the date on a container.

If you find yourself thinking about this a lot, you might want to buy or borrow an infrared laser thermometer. It is inaccurate on reflective surfaces like stainless steel but works well with cast iron. Not something you need to do every time of course, but it'll take the mystery out of a lot of questions.

When I got my new source XL gr1 inset it to 366 and it defiantly improved. If you want to test it get one of these Signstek 3 1/2 6802 II Dual Channel Digital Thermometer 1300°C 2372°F with 2 K-Type Thermocouple Sensor Probe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FFYEPVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_xHQLwb0FWK2S2

Just got this: http://amzn.com/B0015SGXAM

Been really pleased with it.

Whovian here. Amy Pond is my favorite companion so far. And also, I'll forever be waiting for that blue box to fall out of the sky and take me away.

item

It’s a fan and thermometer. Found the thermometer on Amazon.

Keynice Digital Thermometer, Temperature Sensor USB Power Supply, Fahrenheit degree and Degrees Celsius color LCD Display, High Accurate-Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1RDJOI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yozOBbGTS7JMQ

Thank you!

Mr. Aqua 12g Long Tank (standard glass)

Keynice Digital Thermometer

NICREW ClassicLED Plus

Hygger Submersible Heater

Fluval C2 Power Filter

Dr. Tims Ammonia Chloride (for cycling)

Vintage Dark Brown Console Table (for stand)

(Seachem Flourite, Standard Aquarium Gravel, Polished River Rocks, Black Glass Rock, Blue Glass Rock)

(Monte Carlo, Dwarf Hair Grass, Red Pearl Amazon Sword)

Heavy cookware and a good thermometer

Great first loaf! I think it took me several attempts just to get to this level.

Over time you'll start getting a feel for how hydrated the dough should be. It just takes some trial and error!

As for your oven temperature, I had the same problem. I eventually got one of these guys to ensure an accurate reading right before putting the oven in.

Do you need that many channels? I would go with something simple [this] (http://www.omega.com/pptst/OM-EL-USB-TC.html) if you don't need to centralize a bunch of inputs.

If you don't need USB (logging/monitoring) you could use something like this instead.

That's just going to measure the heat of the walls of the oven, what you want to measure is the heat of the air inside the oven, for that you need something like this. for an accurate reading.

These work great.
Etekcity Lasergrip 800 Digital Infrared Thermometer Laser Temperature Gun Non-contact -58℉ - 1382℉ (-50℃ to 750℃), Yellow/Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI62HM

Throw a themocouple in your oven next time you clean it. You can be within a few %, which is more accurate than your oven's built in thermometer is anyway.

If you don't have one or a multimeter, you can buy a themometer with 2 probes for $20: http://smile.amazon.com/Signstek-6802-Channel-Thermometer-Thermocouple/dp/B00FFYEPVQ/ref=pd_sim_hi_21?ie=UTF8&refRID=03ER12NYTAT2H33ZTVAH

IR thermometers are super cheap. If you don't own one you're missing out. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JCFPODM/

Specialist tools? I'm not referring to one of those FLIR thermal cameras.

I'm referring to one of these cheap-o guns like this: https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Non-Contact-Infrared-mometer-Temperature/dp/B00QYX6F5G

We have this one at the lab I work at. I recommend it. It's a laser pointer and it instantly measures the surface temp of whatever the laser is on. I've gotten a reading on the back of a coworker's neck at 40 feet.

Drill a hole for a probe and use something like this https://amzn.com/B00FFYEPVQ

Get a laser thermometer... on a cold day, shortly after the sun has set, and its getting really cold outside but still warm inside. Start checking all these nooks and cranny's

It could not be any easier .

[Laser thermometer](Nubee 8380H Non-contact Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun with Laser Sight MAX Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JA3BMDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1R8Dyb693VYQJ) costs 10 bucks

And the Vidometer app cost $1.99 if you want the fancy map, Otherwise it is free!! Then you simply upload from the phone.

Personally, I like the type-K thermocouples because they are fast and accurate, and you can also switch out the probes (Thermoworks alone has a metric shitton of Type-K probes). I use a 39" wire probe for brewing, and a rigid penetration probe (hehe) for cooking.

For the meter itself (the thing you plug the probes into), Thermoworks has a bunch of them, though they're on the expensive side compared to a backlit two-probe meter from Amazon. I use one similar to this guy.

Any of them should be suitable, the more expensive ones typically just have faster response times. This one should be fine It just won't give instantaneous readings:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018QHQSB8

Man they’re like $15 on Amazon

HDE Non-Contact Infrared Ther mometer Digital Laser Surface Temperature Gun with Backlit LCD Display - Range -26°F to 716°F (-32° to 380° Celsius) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QYX6F5G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IT4SCbTM19YFY

Have you seen what Amazon has on sale today?

http://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Channel-Digital-Thermometer-Thermocouple/dp/B00FFYEPVQ/

I ordered one of these infrared guns from amazon. It allows to measure the surface temperature of hot surfaces.

If you really want to know, you could get an infrared thermometer.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000MX5Y9C

Quite simple really. Alton Brown swears by it

UTHs is going to do little to nothing for your ambient temps, they really only heat the surface they touch. You're gonna want a "heat gun" to measure surface temps for it.

Water drops should evaporate within maybe a second on a hot skillet. If you want to be precise, you can get an infrared thermometer.

If you don't want to drop the money on an IR camera or rent one from Homedepot, you can get a laser infrared thermometer for around $15 and do it "manually"

https://www.amazon.com/ANGGO-Non-contact-Temperature-Thermometer-Precisely/dp/B01FYVEJMY

If the sensor on the card is giving misleading results due to a hardware problem with that sensor then no software tool is going to provide better results. You will need to use something like a non-contact thermometer: https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B00JA3BMDW

This one? 12.99 USA right now

Inkbird Hygrometer Thermometer Dc 3V Input Digital Temperature Humidity Meter Gauge °F °C Monitor Indoor ITH10 Cigar Humidor Reptile Terrarium Incubator Greenhouse Basement Guitar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008JL1M4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NiTuDb97NFCSX

http://www.amazon.com/Thermocouple-Thermometer-Dual-channel-Backlight-Temperature/dp/B018QHQSB8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1462914613&sr=8-5&keywords=k+type+thermometer


https://kingpincooling.com/products/extreme-type-k-probe


would these do the job?

Hot air station, Preheater, Dual thermometer.

this
https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B00JA3BMDW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1475072152&sr=8-3&keywords=infrared+thermometer

Just need to understand that any of these contactless thermometers are +/-5 degrees.

https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B00JA3BMDW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474395011&sr=8-2&keywords=hand+held+temp+gun

Bet they've been overheating. Buy one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B00JA3BMDW

check the temp after it has been on over an hour or two. My enclosures have seen temps over 350 degrees. You could bake a cake in there.

10.90

https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Thermometer-Helect-Non-Contact-Temperature/dp/B071NBJJ2Q/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=temperature+gun&qid=1569601772&s=gateway&smid=A1RI0YHZ8J2HZU&sr=8-4

Just found one for $15

get this

https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Non-Contact-Temperature-Instant-read-Emissivity/dp/B019TRGYW2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497666153&sr=8-5&keywords=Infrared+Thermometer

il risultato mi pare perfetto ma mi permetto di suggerire la visione di questo video che permette di standardizzare il procedimento riducendo la possibilità di sbagliare: Carbonara Scientifica.

in riassunto (a memoria, o per lo meno è come faccio io attualmente):

1. cuocere la pasta come al solito
   
2. mettere in padella il guanciale/pancetta senza olio e farlo diventare croccante
   
3. nel frattempo scaldare a bagnomaria l'uovo sbattuto (per 180g di pasta io uso un intero e un tuorlo) e il formaggio (quantità ad occhio) fino a 62.5° continuando a mescolarlo con la frusta (per misurare la temperatura va benissimo questo termometro laser). una volta arrivati a tale temperatura mettere il contenitore dell'uovo a contatto con qualcosa di freddo (anche solo acqua va bene) e continuare a mescolare finché l'uovo non si raffredda, in modo da fermare la cottura
   
4. una volta cotta la pasta spostarla nella padella (a fuoco spento!) del guanciale/pancetta, unire l'uovo e amalgamare il tutto insieme al pepe.

With one of these: https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Temperature-Infrared-Thermometer-Laser/dp/B00QYX6F5G

http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Star-AR550-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B000MX5Y9C

Buy a cheap laser thermometer and figure it out for yourself- every device and coil configuration varies.

https://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Non-contact-Thermometer-Temperature-Adjustable/dp/B00JA3BMDW/

Or you can just take a rheostat or dimmer switch or whatever and and mount it in a wallbox inline with the AC and badabing badaboom your twenty dollar weller just got a whole lot fancier. The just use a thermocouple and sharpy to mark various temps around the dial.

Here's one close: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JA3BMDW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1463704231&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ir+temperature+gun&dpPl=1&dpID=510Uzei5jZL&ref=plSrch

Here is the mobile version of your link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071V7T6TZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, for the price, this thermocouple can't be beat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FFYEPVQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hmmm, trying free-hand was actually what made me waste most of my concentrates. It wasn't until I actually got the thermometer that I was able to get proper tokes. I'll try what you said though, 20s heat 50s cool.


Edit: I also don't know if it makes a difference or not with the thermometer, but it actually has two functions, 1 is a laser and the other seems to be some sort of wide band. Here's the exact one just in case. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00QYX6F5G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Exo Terra sells a heat lamp and mount
7 inch lamp housing
bracket
The lamp housing supports up to a 150w bulb
And you might want to regulate it with a rheostat
Checking temps regularly with a temp gun

Or you can use a thermostat with the probe on the hot side to regulate the CHE, but I've heard of snakes moving them causing temps to drop or climb, depending.

When you say foam, did you use a spray foam?

Or did you use polyiso?

You can get a cheapo infared gun to find the heat sources. An infared camera is much clearer however.

You can also use window sealers for the door and windows. Not sure how you would seal the garage though.

For anyone looking for a temp gun, this one is a gooder.

I use one all the time for my clear quartz bangers, not sure if its accurate but I hold it directly under or over the banger (within a quarter inch) and get consistent dabs every time at 600°. I haven't timed or burnt a dab in the year I've had it. I also use it to check the temp on my enail, witch is probably more accurate because the coil covers the bottom of the banger.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DMI62HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NZfECb3SGRW7R

Do it oven first, then sear. That way there is no need to rest it afterwords as the oven evenly heats it and the moisture remains evenly distributed. That way your steak is the right doneness, but at the highest temperature so it's nice to eat. Get something like this so you can set an alarm for when it hits the temp you want it to be while it's in the oven. It seems that the consensus is 350f oven temp. If you're unsure about if your oven is getting the temp right, one of these will come in handy.

You can always use one of these on the heatsink to see if the temps are even remotely close to what it's saying. I don't think your motherboard actually has a CPU temp sensor (how would it? The temp readings from a CPU come from the silicon die, not any part of the motherboard), and may just be misinterpreting the data it's poling the CPU for.

I wouldn't, i dont see any light burns.. if anything maybe a little closer once the stretch is done.

Do you have a ir heat gun? If not i would pick one up, fairly cheap. Canadian tire sells them for under 50 bucks, not sure if your in the usa or canada

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-infrared-thermometer-0574632p.html


HDE Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer Digital Temperature Gun with Laser Functional Range -26 to 716 Degree Fahrenheit (-32 to 380 Degrees Celsius) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00QYX6F5G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_klnPCbXDC1QEQ

Get a cheap thermo gun and test the walls, ceiling, and door seals for temp spikes. This will reveal air leaks and problem areas. I suspect your metal garage door is the biggest culprit of heat loss. This winter I installed an [insulation kit] (http://www.amazon.com/Atlas-EPS-S-GDIK001-Insulation-Universal/dp/B008OPLHVE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398097268&sr=8-1&keywords=garage+door+insulation+panels) on my garage door and it kept my garage a few degrees warmer. I'd imagine this would help block out the Texas summer heat too.

OK, I see you took the shield advice. Good.

Schematics

• Still dog's breakfast. This is very hard to follow with the lines unconnected to anything, only labeled. Labels are used to avoid a big mess of wires when you have many of them, not to avoid having to connect anything to the connector in the middle ...
  
  
• Stick with 90 degrees wires. Move text labels out of the wires, so that they don't overlap. Also do move the labels to the actual wires they are for, otherwise it is very misleading - e.g. the 3v3 connections on the multiplexer!
  
  
• 3v3/Vcc connections should be pointing with the arrow upwards, GND down.
  
  
• Label the nets going to the Huzzah connector meaningfully, labels like "2" or "16" are really useless because you don't know what the net is for unless you look up the pinout. Moreover, these numeric labels are easy to confuse with pin numbers! A really wonderful way how to screw up that could make the proverbial magic smoke escape and cost you a lot of money!
  
  
• Not quite sure what is the deal with the MOSFET and LED there? That part of the schematics is really not clear - what are you attempting to achieve? Also the net labeled "USB" makes me wonder what is going on there - normally you don't connect resistors, LEDs or buttons to anything USB. Is that the 5V from the USB connector? Then do label it as "5V" or "Vbus" or something.
  
  
• BTW, if you are using the USB 5V, do keep in mind that the voltage on the USB connector could be anywhere between about 4.4V and 5.25V, depending on hardware and load. Especially the undervoltage (e.g. due to a long USB cable) could be an issue if you are powering circuitry directly from it. Also keep in mind the maximum power draw from a USB port - 500mA - since you are planning to run the ESP module (needs 200mA by itself) and the Neopixels ring (could be hundreds of mA or more, depending on how you are driving it) from it. If you are going to use an USB charger and not communicate with the device over USB then you can ignore the part about the power draw.
  
  
• Re the I2C pull-up resistors - go with 4k7.
  
  
• Re button - you need a pull-up resistor to ensure that the button line has always defined logic level. If you only connect the button to ground, the line will be disconnected (floating) when the button isn't pressed and the CPU will read random data/noise from it. You don't need to put the resistor far away with the LED, you can add the pull-up resistor on the board, in that way you have only two wires going to the button, no need to bring Vcc voltage there too.
  
  
• The multiplexer lacks a decoupling capacitor
  
  
• You are mentioning the Neopixels ring - where is that connected to? There is nothing on the schematics dealing with it.
  
  
• Make sure ERC and DRC checks in Eagle pass - if they don't, your board will likely not work or not be manufacturable! (OTOH, checks passing does not mean that it will work, only that you didn't commit some elementary mistakes)
  
  
  Concerning PCB:
  
  
• You should upload both sides of the board separately, it is very difficult to see the connections on the bottom side of the board when they are covered by the top side.
  
  
• You could have probably moved the majority of the circuit under the Huzzah making the board smaller. However, if you are building this for a specific enclosure where the dimensions are given then ignore this comment.
  
  
• The decoupling capacitors are in the wrong place. They must be placed right next to the chip they belong to. The right-most 100n cap has a trace going across half of the board from what I can see. That makes such capacitor useless.
  
  
• The routing and layout is much better than what you had before, congrats. However - try to avoid running traces across the entire board. That makes the routing more tricky because you block off more space and it also makes it easier for noise to disrupt your signals. E.g. if you have placed the I2C sensors close to the Huzzah I2C pins, you wouldn't have to run the I2C traces across the board. You have a metric ton of space on that board, why don't you move the connectors out of the way? Or move the sensors.
  
  
• Stop mask errors mean that you have something sticking out into the copper layers that shouldn't be there. Sometimes silkscreen can cause that. This post explains how to deal with it: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/122722/stop-mask-errors-in-drc
  
  
  
  Re MLX90614ESF
  
  
• The schematics for MLX90614ESF is incorrect - the wires to the capacitor are not actually connected between ground and Vcc - the dot is not optional! Crossing or only touching lines are not connected (otherwise you would have shorts everywhere!). Also this little bit of schematics is a mess already - why not make the layout in such way that the wires don't overlap the text and move the capacitor symbol to minimize the length of those wires?
  
  
• Hmm, I do wonder what are you trying to actually do that it needs an IR thermometer. This is the sort of sensor used in the contactless thermometers like this one:
  https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-AR550-Mini-Infrared/dp/B000MX5Y9C
  That will need some lens, possibly a laser to aim it (so that you can see what you are measuring/where is it pointing) and it also has quite complex data processing from what I can see. I hope you didn't buy this instead of a regular temperature sensor?