Reddit mentions: The best threaded inserts

1.75 inches (so essentially 8/4 lumber) is more than thick enough to attach legs, especially something that small and I assume the legs will be light and simple. Larger lag bolts are proportionate to the weight of the base, I'd say that simple wood screws so long as they have some room to move around (will hear it refereed to as "elongated screw holes" will be more than enough.

Earlier this year I did a large walnut slab dining table, 8/4 at around 50 inches wide and 11 feet long. Had a really beefy cast iron base, I threaded 1/2 hole for lag bolts (for future reference you can thread wood with thread taps, you just have to go really slow going in and in reverse), some people will put metal thread inserts, but I didn't. Each leg probably weighed 75-100lbs if I had to guess. Brought the table into the house and assembled it there for obvious reasons, but we moved it around with a bunch of us and the legs were fine. Half inch lag bolts were probably overkill, my usual is 1/4'' for most of my tables.

Unless your slab is a lot bigger than the picture makes it look as it does lack any size refernce, but I assume the inserts you're talking about are something like this, those are no where near 1.75 inches long, the biggest they have are around 1 inch in height I think. Drilling deep shouldn't have much impact on cracking the wood, unless you're boring into it with a giant auger bit or something.

Sanding depends on many things, mostly how you want to finish it (what oil/varnish/water-based, etc are you using), and what kind of end result are you going for, super buffed out polished glass like finish, really matte finish, etc. First off, 50 grit is probably overkill unless you really need to take material off. If they are going to plane both sides flat you'd porbbaly be fine starting in the 60-100 grit range to take away any machining marks, general rule of thumb is that everything after your lowest grit is just smoothing the surface rather than actually removing any meaningful amount of material. Generally you'll see porgression like this; 60 grit after planer - 100 grit - 150 grit - 220 grit - vaccum up/wipe off dust and apply finish. After that sanding in between the grits depending on what kind of end result you want. If you're looking to just build up a finish, but not really add a polish and try to keep it as matte as possible (obviously avoid a gloss specific varnish then) most people will just stick with 220 and not go higher. For others, often with like a really highly figured wood you'll sand up in between each coat of finish. I've gone as high as like 4,000 grit wet sanding methods, doing like a wax polish on top of that, to get a mirror like glass finish.

There's really no set rule of thumb, but it's more in relation to what your desired result. Also on finishing get 10 professionals in a room and ask them the best way to get a specific desired finish result and you could easily get 10 different answers and none of them would be wrong. We all find the methods that work best for us, after years for a table that will receive some kind of stain (the farmhouse people all want some generic minwax wipe on) I just spray a few coats of water based poly and done. On highly figured stuff I like some kind of varnish (like a wipe on poly), I like the general finishes arm-r-seal brand, but have used minwax wipe on plenty of times. Waterlox is a brand people love, but it's expensive (especially for the gloss as you have to buy a second component) and smells like shit, plus the finishing process with it is more in depth. It definitely penetrates deeper than most brands from my experience, some like that some say it's unnecessary.

Last year I got into trying conversion varnishes (also called "2k poly") which are more common in the automotive industry. Helped a friend install a pup-top bar he did, looked like an epoxy top, but was a bit different, told me it was just 2k poly that he sprayed on. I used that to get a mirror finish on a highly figured slab (has really good durability too), after a base layer of an epoxy resin to bring out the figuring wasn't too hard and for a really large slab table I liked it and hte durability more than lacquer, again some might disagree, say CV's are overly complex, dangerous etc. No one is right or wrong.

Others will swear varnishes take away from the natural properties of the wood and will only stay with the true oils like BLO, tung, danish (technically thats an oil varnish blend). Some guys will still use straight shellac.

What's the end use of this going to be, I assume some kind of side or display table, that woods got some nice figuring and color, I'd personally go with a wiping varnish you could buy at your local home center. you'll have a range of probably matte, satin, semi-gloss, gloss. Matte should be flat or natural with no sheen, (although if you want that then I'd personally head the oil route, danish oil or dewaxed shellac are probably the most straightforward and least likely to give you a headache from personal experience), up to gloss which will have the most sheen. As I said earlier I like to buff out a glossier finish with satin wipe of poly, but I've used gloss brand plenty of time, all really straightforward. Sand it up to 220 hit wipe on, Here's a simple method with wipe on poly. You don't need to go up as high as he did by any means, and before I had nicer sanders/abrasives (you wont find much over 220 grit in the ROS pads at the home depot) I'd go to like 1,500 grit and doing the wet sanding/buffind part by hand. you can feel how smooth it will be after each coat, again some people will never go past 220, some go really high to get a smoother/glossier finish.

Also do you want to keep the bark on or not?

I haven't yet drilled the holes. A forstner bit is a good idea. Hopefully I've got one small enough (these are the ones I bought). E-Z Lok's site says to use a 17/64 drill bit, which I definitely don't have a forstner of. Might have a 3/8, though. Drilling big and using some epoxy is a good idea, but I'd be worried about keeping epoxy out of the internal threads.

I've got some scrap I can test on. Probably the only way to be sure what'll happen. :)

Installing them from the bottom of the board still seems like it might be the easiest route. I'll test a few options and see what works.

Thanks!

I've been working on this table project for a little while now, and now just need to fasten the legs to the table tops. One issue that that these raw oak slabs were never planed more than the rough cut from the tree, so their fairly uneven, and even bow a little (don't think it shows in the pictures, though). For that reason, I need a way to level the legs so that the tables don't rock once their finished. Shimming the plates with washers should be easy enough to get the table level, but I'll need machined threads to run the fasteners into and out of (and then into and out of again) so that they'll still hold once it's all said and done. I've looked at a few different options for this problem, but aren't convinced any of them are ideal. T-nuts would work, but I think they might pull out since they won't be held in from the top of the table surface (not interested in that industrial look). These threaded inserts and these similar ones would seem to do the trick, but the reviews raise questions about the strength of the material in dealing with hardwood, as well as problems with the material stripping while trying to place them. Anyone have any suggestions/advice?

TLDR: Looking for fastener solutions to affix table legs to the underside of an oak slab that will allow adjusting to level the table.

Great questions.

Yes, I found these great brass knurled thumb screws https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005RTF0NQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and threaded inserts https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00207NF6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for the pivots. I thought about a soild pin but that may interfered with anything larger than a letter.

The inner top corners and bottom back panel are angled to give swing clearance from the outer box.

I played with lots of wood blocks and inner catch ideas but settled simply on 2 small brass nails that I insert/remove to mount the outer box to the wall. The are definatly strong enough to prevent it from "over opened".

I ended up spending a lot o time finding the right pivot point but found a place where its nicely balanced. Its stays shut when its shut and open when its opened.

Too late for this, but easy outs are NOT for use with seized screws. They are only for use with screws whose head is buggered.

I wrote this up a while back, you should give it a read:

Best tools for removing broken or stripped screws.

As for getting the easy out OUT, there is another option, but you need some crazy tools. Mainly a drill-press stand for your hand held drill, and a hollow, diamond coring bit, like what you would use for drilling a hole through glass or ceramic. If you can cut around the easy out with the coring bit, then you can break it free. Next, you finish over-drilling the hole, and then insert a threaded insert to bring the hole back down to the correct size.

Parts I'm talking about:

Drill guide The drill guide is important because the coring bits will walk all over the place since they don't have a center point. The guide can be fastened, held, etc. in place better, and help guide the bit to where it needs to go.

Core bit
You can also use a more standard bimetallic hole saw, just without the pilot bit installed.

Threadsert (Choose the ID of the original fastener, and find it in SS, not carbon) Don't use a Helicoil, those things are shit. (Speaking from LOTS of experience here...)

Two taps that match the outside threading of the threaded insert. One a taper tap, and one a bottoming tap.

Looks like the brass threads are something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-Insert-Internal-Threads/dp/B0026GZU0Q/

3/8" - 16 looks like the right threads, check with your faucet manufacturer though.

Tool this:

https://www.amazon.com/Z-LOK-Drive-Tool-Optional/dp/B00209X86W/

​

This is neat, but it does assume you have some tools to make the handles look good. You're resawing the wood with your table saw and getting accurate length cuts with a chop saw. These tools are expensive to own and take up a lot of space.

I think it would be really cool to have a wood laser to put a design on the handle, or I guess you could paint them with chalk paint and change them as you see fit. I will probably do this because I need some better labeling on my keezer.

Earlier I made a practice station for a set of 6 locks, but it was uncomfortable to hold in my lap while I watch TV. So I made a couple of these small holders in an hour or so. There is a brass insert for the screw, so these will last forever, and the screws will turn easily.
I would recommend making these before you try to duplicate the big rig.

I used the E-Z Lok 1/4-20 brass inserts. You can use thumb screws or knurled screws (as shown in the picture). Thumb screws are available at nearly any hardware store.
The special tool I used to screw in the brass insert is shown here, but some people may want a driver bit.

I rounded off the edges using a router table, but a sander can be used. The slot can be cut with a table saw or a small dovetail or gent's saw.

I didn't apply a finish yet, as I wanted to use them for a while. I can do that later. I used oak for these holders.

The parts can be purchased here. here. here or here and the T-handle wrench I used is available here.

Some tips:

• Drill some small pilot holes and make sure they line up because the holes from the side and top have to intersect.
  
• The large hole may cause tear-out, so you might want to drill from both sides. (That's why a small pilot hole is useful).
  
• Make sure you drill the proper size hole for the brass insert. I have 3/8" marked on the bag to remind me.
  
• When you, ah, insert the insert. make sure the slots for the screwdriver face out, so you can remove the insert in case it gets messed up.
  
• I find the T-handle wrench is easy to control and to make sure you hold the tool at the right angle. If it's tilted, the insert may not go in easily.
  
• Be prepared and have extra inserts, in case you mess up.
  
• If you use a hard wood like cherry (like my practice station), you may have to use one of the brass inserts to start the thread, then back it off (with a screwdriver) and replace it will the final one.
  
• Be safe and protect your fingers. Drilling the large hole into the block will cause the wood to grab and spin with the bit. I held it in a small vice. I also used a professional hold-down when I used the router table. Those pieces of wood are too small to be hand-held.
  
  Let me know if you have any questions.

So they make these things called helicoils for replacing threads. Basically looks like a spring coil and you drill out the stripped threads to a specific size and tap it for the outer coil thread, twist it in and the inner coil fits your screw. But yeah the repair costs as much as a new motor lol. Worth having the tools on hand though since the helicoils themselves are like a couple cents
https://www.amazon.com/Z-SK40210-Threaded-Stainless-Installed/dp/B0092QUKRG

The arm itself could be made out of wood with Teflon bushings to give them a bit of resist to stay where put.

The pole could be made with most any metal pipe with a larger piece of pipe over it. just drill a hole, thread it and make a lock with a bit of all thread bent into an "L" with the handle part coated in plasticoat.

Just make a wooden piece that fits tightly over the outer slide pipe and have two more threaded holes in the sides of it and the pipe for two bolts to hold the wooden arm mount.

The tray of course is another piece of wood.

If done with care it would look much better in my opinion.

EDIT The tray looks like it has a place and lock type joint. This can be made with a black rubber stopper, a washer, a nut, a threaded insert, and another piece of all thread in an "L" shape.

Like so.

L== N|>T=

"L" the handle

"=" is the allthread

"N" is the nut tacked to the allthread

"T" is the threaded insert

"|" is the washer

">" is a rubber stopper with a hole in it

As you tighten the allthread it squeezes the stopper causing enough friction to hold the tray in place quite well.

You could use a shaft collar in stead of the nut for a no weld solution.

Buy them at lowes or McMaster Carr!!! Way cheaper!!

Those are beautiful, would love to have them on my keezer...I currently have 4 reclaimed rail spikes that I drilled and tapped, which look awesome in their own right, but damn these are nice.

Home Depot

http://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-16-Coarse-Brass-and-Gold-Steel-Wood-Insert-Nuts-5-Pack-880551/202242364

Lowes

http://www.lowes.com/pd_137397-37672-880551_0__?productId=3012578

Amazon (Best Deal 10 for 4.70)

http://www.amazon.com/E-Z-Threaded-Insert-Thread-Threads/dp/B00DCFH08A

I got that advice too when I asked around during my own tap handle project and after checking around a bit more, I don't think it is correct, at least not for these inserts which are a little different that the ones in that video.

OP /u/darthKOTOR correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like you are using these inserts, and the manufacturer makes a drive tool that very clearly is designed to insert them with the slots facing out. (Though the method OP uses with the bolt and two nuts drives them much better).

I took a photo at the time illustrating how different the two threaded inserts are. On the right, just one from Home Depot like in the video you linked, and the left is the E-Z Lok brand. Note how different they are. I can definitely see the HD type variety having the slot pre cut the threads like in the video you link, but in the E-Z lok brand, the threads don't even cross the slot in the same way so they don't really work like that.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075S1HD5J/

There’s an example that came up on a quick search. I’m sure AliExpress has them, too. “Heat-Set threaded insert” seems to be the description.

https://youtu.be/MoAji1iq_nk

Not a great look in the video, but that’s what I’m talking about.

Good luck!

I use these 2 options for my 3D printed taps. Id do a few tests to see what diameter hole gives you the best fit. Make sure you leave enough body around the holes so you dont crack the handle.

​

AJS Beer Tap Handle Standard Ferrule and Hanger Bolt : I use a 3.9mm ⌀ x 23mm hole with at least 3 walls and glue.

​

E-Z Lok 400-6 Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 3/8"-16 Internal Threads, 0.625" Length : I use a 7.4mm ⌀ x 17mm hole with at least 4 walls and glue.

These are what you want to mount anything to wood that you might want to remove repeatedly. Basically makes a brass threaded hole wherever you want in the wood. Fantastic little buggers, just be sure you get them in the wood straight.

I like using the ones they sell on amazon. They're shorter and their threads are finer. I also drill a 9/16" pilot hole though. I just switched to a 9/16" forstner bit and like it much better than the spade bit I was using.

If you are worried about durability, try using a metallic insert.

Something like this: [initeq] #8-32 Threaded Heat Set Inserts for 3D Printing (20, Long) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076M9P75X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lqJ6BbKKFF75H

Mcmaster-Carr has a range of options of those. If it needs to handle more torque, I found key locked inserts worked well in abs, nylon, and ultem. Steel threaded inserts are the easy fix anytime you have fasteners in a soft material like plastic or even brass and aluminum

based on the url I'm betting he was referring to these.

One of the other posts recommended something like this which would also be a good choice.

Well, I have some good and some bad news for you.

The good:

• This is a Majesco Game Gear which has a better screen than the originals and doesn't suffer from the bad capacitors issues!
  
  The bad:
  
  
  
• Some Majesco Game Gears didn't come with the rear screw point and some did. You unfortunately have one that didn't.
  
  Here are some pictures of my two Majesco Game Gear systems, one with the screw hole and one without.
  I opened up the console without the screw point to see the inside and the brass screw insert is not present.
  
  One possibility that you could try is adding the screw insert your self as it is a simple threaded brass insert. You would need to open the Game Gear's case, drill out the plastic in the center of the hole and screw in the threaded insert. The insert linked above is just an example and not the correct size. I don't know the size or thread pitch off hand but it would be easy enough to figure out by taking the attachment screw from the PowerBack to Home Depot / Ace / Lowes or another hardware store where they will have a screw sizing jig. Then just buy an insert of that size at the same store!
  Edit: spelling/formatting

Threaded inserts

This way you can secure something like a case trimmer or motorized chamfer/deburr tool to your bench top and remove it later without taking up valuable work area.

These are cheap, or you can order these and make whatever you like!

E-Z Lok 400-6 Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 3/8"-16 Internal Threads, 0.625" Length (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026GZU0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xrhzDbXQKTEEM

These are far better than t nuts, granted I don't know if this is the right size. Search for knife treaded insert of the size you need.

I think this is very similar to the insert used on the original build.

Well, I bought these, I'm going to pursue setting them up in the next couple of days.

Here's an amazon link if you want to make your own for the inserts.

Taken from /u/janisco 's DIY page on his website that linked here.

> crew inserts and compatible screws

Threaded inserts can be bought in packs of 10s or 100s cheaply, and fit common machine screws that can also be bought cheaply in bulk. These and these for instance. Usually available at your local hardware store as well.

If you're routinely opening the panel, I'd suggest getting threaded inserts like this that allow you to use machine screws rather than wood screws. If you take wood screws in and out enough times, you'll make the hole useless. The ones I listed are sized for inch threads, but you can find metric equivalents.

Also, as someone else mentioned, I'd seal the case with something to protect the wood.

If you plan on doing more than one, it's cheaper to buy them from amazon. Here's a 10 pack for $7.

I would think using a threaded insert and then screwing the standoff into it would work.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026GUEN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_WxzpzbTR0YJFG

However, I have not done this so I can't actually speak to the results of doing this.

3/8"-16 Internal Threads, 0.625" Length

If you google around, the hardest thing about the insert is getting it straight, which, if you don't have access to a drill press, is problematic. As madmatt suggested, a way around this is to drill a slightly bigger hole than needed, add some JB Weld and then add the insert into your handle, place on your faucet, straighten and let cure.

NOTE: You need to close the top of the insert so weld compound isn't getting into the inside of your thread -- you can superglue a circle of some aluminum sheeting or similar to the back hole to close it up. And, generally, just be careful -- you want to weld the insert into the handle, not to your nice shiny perlicks.

• I purchased http://www.amazon.com/Buddy-Christ-Statue-Dashboard-Driver/dp/B000AP5974/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345173521&sr=8-2&keywords=buddy+jesus but I think it was about $7 when I purchased it.
  
• Then I got a table leg from lowes and stained it with a nice mahogany stain I had lying around (same stain as the kegerator wood).
  
• Drilled a hole in the bottom of jesus and used gorilla glue to hold it in place.
  
• Drilled a hole in the table leg and used (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026GZU0Q/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00) from amazon for the tap handle thread.
  
  Did a similar process for the lightsaber tap handles.

You could use some of these and these

I'm not sure of the brand of the insert but it's the kind with knife threads. I made a simple inserter tool with a 3/8" bolt.

I screwed these into the top:

E-Z Lok Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 1/4"-20 Internal Threads, 0.500" Length (Pack of 25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00207NF6W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Then I put 1/4 inch hex bolts through the holes in the legs into those inserts in the top. If the wood expands - which it would do widthwise, not lengthwise - the bolt has room to move within the hole in the leg so that it doesn't crack.

No OP, but they are called Threaded Inserts.

Available probably at any hardware store or [Amazon](E-Z Lok 400-4 Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 1/4"-20 Internal Threads, 0.500" Length (Pack of 25) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00207NF6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2HLmDbKA5T2RF)

Why wouldn't you ever be able to disassemble it? If you back the screws out to disassemble it, the holes will still be good. Depending on the hardness of the wood and how rough you are with it will determine how many times you can re-use the holes -- and even if the threads chew up the wood, it's really easy to just drill out the hole and glue a new hardwood dowel in and then start the process again by predrilling holes into the dowel.

Alternately, a threaded insert will let you screw something into the wood once and from that point forward you're screwing into metal. It'll last a lot longer, but you'll have to get different screws to attach the pedestal to the surface.

To kind of separate my post from your questions here are just some recommendations when kegging.

• buy the o-rings in bulk. You'll see the ones from my spreadsheet that came with at least a hundred of each. silicone for gas side, buna for beer side. Dont need silicone for beer side really so you can go cheaper. But change them liberally. They are major causes for gas leaks and it sucks when you have a leak and lose a whole tank of co2.
  
  
• in regards to o-rings. always lube them up with some keg lube or food grade lubricants.
  
  
• buy a fish pump, carb cap, and a few hose clamps. This will make cleaning your beer lines much easier
  
  
• in regards to beer lines, dont listen to those calculators that tell you, 3 ft of beer line is enough to carb 12 psi. You'll have a froathy waste every pour. I use 4-5 foot lines for my porters, stouts or other beers that i keep around 5psi. 9-12' of line for mostly everything else. also, the OD and ID of the beer line matter.
  
  if i think of anything else, i'll update or make another post.
  
  EDIT:
  
  
• tap handles are expensive. Get some cheap plastic ones like i have in the album that i posted to start off with and if you're crafty, you can make your own with some of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026GZU0Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  here's a post i made a while back of one that I made. You can see some more on the bottom left that I made as well. https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/4mz9tk/i_enjoy_making_tap_handles_and_made_this_one_for/

>Currently I use aspen with my current setup but I am able to remove the top for easy cleaning. Removing the top on the AP T8 is about 16 or so screws (maybe more) so I am considering using corrugated wrap or any other suggestions people might have...I fear the aspen will be a pain to clean in the small 12" high T8?

If you are planning to constantly remove the top to clean, ditch the screws that came with the AP cage, they are wood screws and will strip the holes after 3-4 removal/reinstalls. Get these and matching machine screws.

For me, I used aspen for a good 3 months on my AP cage, I got tired of it as it does dry the enclosure and the winter made my humidity struggle so I swapped to cedar. I just spot cleaned the aspen and for removal i used a dustpan to shovel it and then vaccuumed the remainder while my snake was being handled/in his quarantine tub.

More details in the imgur album, but here's a quick synopsis:

After having my kegs stuffed in a fridge with picnic taps, I decided it was time to build up a proper keezer. I already had kegs, lines, CO2 tank and regulator. So it was a relatively inexpensive project, aside from the freezer itself.

Here's the build list:

• Freezer - MagicChef 5.9 cu ft
  
• Temp Controller - Inkbird pre-wired (heat/cool)
  
• Taps - Perlick 301SS taps with 4" shanks
  
• CO2 - 4-way distribution manifold * Collar - Inner box: 1x6" knotty pine. Outer: 1x6 walnut, Danish oil natural
  
• 1.5" insulation foam sheathing
  
• Aluminum tape
  
  Already had:
  
• 5# CO2 tank
  
• Dual pressure regulator
  
• Beer and air lines, Corny kegs, ball lock connections, etc.
  
  
  The build:
  Most of the build was pretty straight forward. Make a box, drill some 7/8" holes in the box, etc. Adding the insulation foam was kind of a pain and got little foam pebbles ALL over the place. The aluminum tape really helped to keep the foam from breaking off inside the kegerator, and makes the rough cut edges look nicer. And on a functional side, should seal off air gaps and make cleanup easier.
  
  I ended up picking up some blind nuts that have the same thread pattern as the taps. They were about 5 bucks on Amazon for 10. You simply drill a hole in whatever you want to make a tap handle out of and thread in the nut. I took some leftover pine and walnut scraps and glued them up. The nuts are a challenge to get in straight, which took a few tries.
  
  The drip tray was a challenge, mostly because the drip tray itself was not perfectly square. I measured the tray and mistakenly assumed it would be square. But once I built the box it was obvious it bowed out a little on the sides. Some amount of cursing and smashing with a hammer later got it close enough. I attached the whole assembly to the front with construction adhesive after roughing up the paint with some sandpaper.