Reddit mentions: The best pipe fittings

So the basic idea on building a nitro cold brew kegerator is simple. You get either a jockey box or an actual refrigerated kegerator system. The latter is simple and takes most of the work out of the build but also the most expensive. If you go with a jockey box route you can reduce the price from a couple grand to somewhere close to 1/10th the price; if not more depending on how simple or elaborate you want to make it.

If you choose to go with the former option then keep reading, other wise skip the next few paragraphs.

Box
If you want to make it simple there are jockey box kits you can buy that people usually have for tailgate parties. Those have pre-tapped holes and fittings for the beer taps you can swap out for high flow draft taps you want for nitro cold brew, as well as the coils and shank fitting for your product line which ideally would be going to a keg of some sort. (I will be going into how do run a system without a keg IE a simple container/bucket/cambro). And another option is similar to what I have done in the main post which is a beer tower. The one thing that you need to be mindful of for the tower is that you will need to do some fittings to get the beer tower lines to fit to the cooling coils. If the coil have npt threaded fittings this is simple and jsut involves down sizing enough to get a small push in fitting that the beer line can go to. Otherwise if its a naked coil with no fittings this can be simply achieve by getting a food safe line that has a ID that is just barely smaller than the coil OD so that once you fit it on you can tighten to get a airtight seal with a worm clamp.

Lines
To make your life eternally easier buy some no drip DQC's (aka QDC, quick disconnect, quick connects, dripless quick connects, ect) And have that before AND after the coil so that you can take out the coil from the jockey box and clean more efficiently. For the lines doing into the box from the gas and the keg/product container you can do it many ways. As you can see in my pictures there is that weird awkward box with the DQC on them and that was a result of measuring once and cutting before double checking clearance space. The smarter thing to do now that I have worked on this over the year would be to use a bulkhead passthrough fitting/threaded tube that you can anchor down with a lock and nut. From there I would get some kind of threaded adaptor to fit DQC's to them to give it a good clean look for the outside and just a regular line inside to the DQC that feeds into the cold coils. And then DQC's ont he sankey or keg coupler lines as well.

Nitrogen Gas
Now is for the Nitrogen gas. The typical way would be to connect it to either a nitrogen tank or a nitrogen generator system with a regulator to adjust the pressure to push out the cold brew in a keg to dispense the coldbrew through a tap. For this I would recommend using a manifold to split the gas line to push the cold brew in the keg and another to go into the infusion system I will elaborate on later. Each of the output from the manifold should have a shut off valve and attach air quick connects to them so that you can close off lines you are not using or dont have yet for easy expansion. If you are using a sankey keg or a more typical standard keg coupler I recommend attaching air quick connects to the lines for clean and quick attachments to the box.

No Keg method
For a system that is not used in a keg you would need some kind of pump system to push the cold brew through the system when you pull down the tap. For this you will want a pump with a pressure switch like a flojet. I think the best option would be the flojet bevjet compact as it is sold options for what fittings you want in our case push in fittings. You can then just simply put your line for the bevjet input into the container and let it sit in the bottom. Or you can modify your container by dirlling out a hole near the base and fitting a right angle push in stem fitting inside of it so that you can syphon out as much of the cold brew and not waste it(noone lieks to waste good cold brew). From there you follow the same method and fit the cold brew to a DQC to the in line from the Bevjet

Nitro Infusion System
Now this is the meat aand bones of the reason why I made this post. The nitro infusion system. You can go out and spend $600~800 for a completed looking box that you attached to your system and call it a day. But you can also just buy 4 to 5 fittings to do the exact same thing. First the required ones will be an (inline speed control valve)[https://www.grainger.com/product/SMC-In-Line-Speed-Control-Valve-4DGV3?cm_sp=Home-_-MyPurchasedProducts-_-4DGV3&cm_vc=HPMPPZ], T/Y splitter fitting, and 2 (liquid check valve fittings)[https://www.grainger.com/product/JOHN-GUEST-Check-Valve-2JFY8?cm_sp=Home-_-MyPurchasedProducts-_-2JFY8&cm_vc=HPMPPZ]

Arrange them like so:

Column A | Column B | Column C | Column D | Column E
---------|----------|----------|----------|----------
Line out|<<<|T/Y Splitter|<<<|Check Valve
| |^| |
| |Check Valve|<<<|Control Valve

This would be located inside of the box and the smart location to place it would be in between the output of the cold coil and the input of the beer tower/spout.
Side note I forgot to mention you need to run a line of nitrogen gas into the box so be creative on how you want to do it I've explained how to get the cold brew in here so its simple from the manifold that the nitrogen gas spits from the outside.

And then you just adjust the gas with the speed control valve to get a nice creamy texture for the cold brew

Cable Technician Here: Make sure that when pre-wiring a house, you consider WHERE the equipment is going and WHAT equipment is going where.

Cable Television will for the forseeable future always require dedicated lines, installing a home director's panel is highly advisable.

Also, When choosing coaxial cable, I'll go ahead and tell you some of the best stuff to go with is either Perfect-Flex or Commscope Coaxial cable.

This Stuff Here Is awesome, because it has good shielding, AND it's cross compatible with Satellite and Cable Television. The big thing you're looking for is it's capable of doing 3Ghz frequencies. Cable televsion only uses 5-860Mhz as a standard right now, but Satellite uses freq. as high as 2.85Ghz.

Alongside the equipment itself, you're going to want the proper end connectors, for that, leave that to TWC. Essentially after you run the wiring TWC will do ALL the connectorization for you. If you do want to do it yourself...

You'll Need a Compression Tool, a Cable Prep Tool and Fittings.

Splitting, you want to do the Home run for this reason. All footage matters greatly, its easiest to get the best splitting, and most equal distrobution through your house by using a smart panel. Preferably located as close to the Electrial Meter (because your Feed line must be close to power for grounding) as possible.

Aside from that, I'd be glad to help if you wanted to drop a pm to me sometime, I can assist with all aspects of your setup. I just enjoy doing cable work, and would love to help.

Sorry I'm late to respond, but if you want to reply to someone, you need to click the "reply" link under their comment. Then add your comment as a reply to them, it will notify them you replied, and they'll know the reply is for them.

This reply is probably a bit long, lol. But I'm bored, so I go into some detail, and give some suggestions on tools n' such you can use for various things. You don't have to use them, obviously.

===

• Yes, break down all the starches before fermenting. Yeast can't use starches, they will release some enzymes, but none that will break down starches. The enzymes that break down starches come from the grain itself, or you add them. This is why you do the iodine test after mashing, but before fermenting, it is testing for the presence of starches, if it's blue, than all the starches haven't been converted and the yeast won't turn those starches into alcohol. So you need to continuing mashing, maybe add enzymes if you haven't already.
  
  
• 2lbs of sugar should be enough for the batch.
  
  
• The barley does need to be milled. The distiller shop should be able to crush/mill it for you, or if there is a feed supply store nearby, they might be able to do it for you. But whole grains aren't going to work because the starches will be trapped inside. Grain seeds are essentially made up of 3 parts: bran, endosperm, and germ. The bran is the outer shell that protects everything but it also contains some vitamins, the endosperm is where the starches and enzymes are contained, and the germ is where the actual plant embryo is, as well as vitamins and fats are contained. Milling/crushing/grinding is what breaks that bran off, and will make the endosperm (starches and enzymes) available to be dissolved into the water. If that bran is still there, everything will be trapped inside.
  
  
• The enzymes I mentioned, you would add them before pitching (adding) the yeast, to help break down the starches in the grains. I would specifically add them at the 150F (65C) mark, that is within the safe temperatures for both of them. Glucoamylase will start to denature at 158F (70C), and alpha-amylase will start to denature at around 161F (72C), and if you didn't know, denatured enzymes (proteins) don't work anymore.
  
  ====
  
  I do my mashing in a 5gal stainless steel pot, and I do my fermenting in these 5gal buckets (foodsafe from Home Depot). I use these lids, as it has an extendable spout which is the perfect diameter for a No. 7 size drilled rubber stopper, which I stick the airlock in.
  
  For the actual mashing process. I do the following. So, not far off from what you do, except the starting temperature, since going above 161F can damage some of your enzymes and slow things down. These steps haven't failed me yet.
  
  
• Heat the water up to 158F (70C)
  
• Add grains when it's at that temp or slightly below it.
  
• Let it cool down to 150F (65C), and hold it there for an 1h to 1.5h. But it has to stay at ~150F the entire time.
  
• Pull out the grains (which are in a brew bag, mentioned below).
  
• I personally do an iodine test at this point, before moving on to cooling. To see if there are any starches left over. If there is still starch, and I haven't added enzymes already, I will add enzymes, 1/2tsp each (alpha and gluco), and I'll hold it at 150F for another 30min.
  
• I let mine cool down to between 70F (20C) and 75F (24C), depending on the room temp. You can use an immersion chiller if you have one (I made mine, explanation below), or an ice bath, if you want to speed up cooling it down from 150F to 75F.
  
• Then pitch the yeast.
  
  I mix up the yeast culture as soon as I hit the 150F temp of the mash, by pouring the yeast (1tbsp) into 2cups of warm water with a pinch of sugar, a pinch of DAP (aka diammonium phosphate), and a pinch of Magnesium sulfate (aka epsom salt, I bought at walmart in a large jug). Then I just let it sit while the yeast rehydrates and starts doing it's thing. When the mash is down to around 80F, I pour that mash into a sanitized 5gal bucket, then when it hits between 75F to 70F, I pour the yeast mix into the mash in the bucket, close the lid, put in the stopper+airlock, and leave it alone for about 3 days, before I check on it.
  
  When I check on it, if it has slowed down significantly, or is stuck. I do the following:
  
  

1. I will check the temp, and warm/cool it if needed to get it back to between 70F (20C) and 75F (24C).
   
2. If the temp isn't off, I will check pH, if it's between 5 and 5.5, everything is good, if not I use citric acid (pull it down) or calcium carbonate (pull it up) to fix pH. Closer to 5 is better than closer to 5.5, ideally 5.2 to 5.5 is the best. Some people will use oyster shells and add them before pitching yeast, to act as a pH buffer. It does work, since they are essentially made up of calcium carbonate. I'd recommend soaking in water+bleach (10% solution, 10mL bleach, 90mL water) for 30min then rinsing under tap water, then letting them dry out, if you go this route, to make sure any bacteria are dead. Then you can put them in the ferment bucket in their own small brew bag, under the big brew bag, or in one of those stainless steel tea strainers, so you don't need to fish them out of the grains/trub afterwards which is a pain in the ass. Ideally, by the end of the ferment, if you don't want to distill it right away (within a few days), you can let the pH drop as low as 4, to stave off any bacterial infection.
   
3. If pH is fine, it usually means there isn't enough nutrients, so I will put in 1/2tsp of DAP, and 1/2tsp of Magnesium sulfate, for 5gal that is. Might have to adjust pH after adding those.
   
   That usually accounts for all the stuck fermentation issues.
   
   ===
   
   

• For my immersion chiller. I use a 72" length of uncoated corrugated stainless steel tubing I bought from Houzz, and then I bought a faucet to garden hose adapter, and 2 of these 3/4" NPT to garden hose adapters. So it goes Sink faucet > faucet adapter > garden hose > hose to NPT adapter > CSST > hose to NPT adapter > garden hose > tub drain. There are other ways to do it, but I had the CSST already just laying around unused. You could probably just buy a piece of copper pipe, bend it into a coil, stretch rubber tubing over each end, and then stretch one end over the faucet, and let the other end hang over the sink/tub drain. I prefer the immersion chiller to the ice bath, or just waiting around.
  
  
• I also don't know if you have what's called a brew bag, but it makes handling the grains easier. You put the bag in the bucket, then fill the bucket with your water, then pour the grains into the bag/bucket. Then when you are done, and want to take the grains out, you just lift out the bag, let it drain, you can squeeze the bag, or do whats call lautering where you pour water through it (you can put the bag in a large colander if you want to lauter), and voila. A lot easier than without the bag, and having to scoop all the grains out. This is the one I have, you can see what I was describing in the photos.
  
  
• Some people like to do what is called distilling "on grain", where they will pour the entire mash, with some grains or all the grains, into the distillation boiler. But if you aren't using a jacketed boiler, you run the risk of burning the grains, which adds an acrid taste and can ruin things. I don't do this, I use an immersion heater in my boiler, so I distill "off grain", as I use the brew bag and pull the grains out before doing into the boiler.
  
  
• For controlling the mashing temperatures, I use a Sous Vide cooker that I own for cooking, it can go between 32F and 210F. Tons of them on Amazon these days, and with a bit of aluminum door screen around the openings to keep the big grains out, benefit of the sous vide is it will heat and stir for you. If it's too expensive for you now, Amazon always has deals on them for Black Friday/Cyber Monday, or for Xmas. But you can just keep adding hot water and stirring periodically as the temp drops, I've done that before too. Or you can use a hot plate, which I have also done. I've never used the stove top (electric), or a gas burner, but I imagine it's possible to do with that as well, but probably a bit more difficult. Whatever floats your boat, and works for you.
  
  ===
  
  Hope this helps!

Tools required:

• 10 mm wrench
  
• 13 mm wrench
  
• Phillips head screwdriver
  
• 3/8" or 1/2" drill bit
  
  Parts required:
  
  
• Cheap RO/DI
  
  
• Saddle Valve
  
  
• Push Connect Shutoff Valve
  
  
• Total cost: ~$80
  
  Process:
  
  
• Follow the instructions for installing your saddle valve to a cold water pipe, with enough 1/4" vinyl tubing connected to reach through your wall. It's most convenient to do this directly behind your bathroom faucet, if you have access to those pipes. You will be using your phillips head screwdriver, 10 mm wrench, and 13 mm wrench for this process. Make sure all your nuts are secure, but don't hulk out on them - remember that brass is not vibranium - you CAN strip it if you go too hard. Leak test, and flow test at this point. Once you're free of leaks, and have good flow to your vinyl tubing, completely close the needle valve on your saddle valve to cut off flow.
  
  
• Drill a hole through your drywall above your sink. Pass your 1/4" vinyl through the wall. Push connect your shutoff valve on this side, and connect another length of vinyl tubing to the other side of the shutoff. Close the shutoff valve. Go back and completely open the needle valve on your saddle valve, to allow flow to the the vinyl tubing. Open your shutoff valve to again ensure that you're getting pressurized flow through your vinyl tubing.
  
  
• Drill 3 holes in the side of your undersink cabinet, preferably right next to your bathtub (as shown in the last video of the OP gallery). 1 hole will route your supply line (from the shutoff valve) into the cabinet, to supply tap water to your filter. The other two, respectively, will run your waste and product lines out of the cabinet.
  
  
• Run your lines and dry fit the mount of your filter inside the cabinet. Using the 2 phillips screws provided with the filter assembly, mount the 2 brackets connected to the RO membrane housing, directly to the wall of your cabinet.
  
  
• Total installation time: ~30 minutes
  
  Now you have a clean water supply in a hassle-free implementation. When you're ready to make water, just snake your waste line securely down the bathtub drain, open the shutoff valve, give the filter a few minutes to push water through the system and flush, and make water. Easy breezy beautiful cover girl.
  
  If you don't have access to be able to do this in your bathroom, the same setup can be performed anywhere you have access to a fresh cold water pipe and a drain line.

I appreciate the reply. I have the chuck off. Pretty easy now that I know what I'm doing :) I see that for the most part, b12 does only go up to 10mm however I did find this Fein 63204028008 Quick Action Chuck 1/2-Inch Capacity with B12 Fitting online. Fein is a good name so I may keep an eye out for one or something similar.

My chuck must be older (original) because it goes 0.5mm up to only 8mm, not 10mm. Not sure that the extra 2mm really matters since most everything comes in 1/4" quick-change hex these days (1/4" = 6.35mm). Anything precision (wire gauge bits) that I do is going to be small for the most part. Only reason why I was interested in a 3/8" or 1/2" chuck is because I still have a couple old bit indexes with straight (not tapered) shaft/shanks. I understand torque... I wouldn't need 1/2" often and would either be going into wood (easy) or if metal I'd go very slow, keep it cool and use cutting oil. Thanks again. This has been a big help.

EDIT: One more question, You said: "Spindle:b12 ->tool shank b12 -> taper or thread to the chuck." Do you mean that b12 can also come threaded, or that a threaded chuck can also press onto a b12 tapered shaft? I thought it was one or the other?

> How are you going to mount that to the ceiling?

My bad. Not shown in the picture is a 4 way cross connector. This "4 way" cross is in the attic and at the very top of the chandelier piping. All of the chandelier wires come out of the top of this "4 way" cross. On each side of the cross are two, 48 inch 3/4" pipes. Both these pipes run perpendicular to the main supply pipe in my original picture. Furthermore, each of these pipes run through a 1" whole in adjacent rafter beams. So all-in-all there is a large "T" at the top of the chandelier. Through the top of the "T" the wires extrude from the chandelier, and each of the sides of the "T" support the weight of the chandelier, as they are run through the rafter beams. The entire chandelier is incredibly strong. I could literally hang from the chandelier and it would easily carry my weight.

> More importantly, are you just going to stick a bunch of 18 awg or 16 awg wire through a hole in the hot attic in a box and do the connection there?

Yes the plan is to run the wire through the top of the pipe and a foot or two to the terminal enclosure box. My main concern is that foot or two where the wire is exposed. In that span, the 8 ground, 8 18awg white wire, and 8 18 awg black wire will be exposed. Sound like I need to extend my 3/4" pipe directly to the terminal box? And if so, is it ok to just drill a KO whole through my terminal box and feed the iron pipe directly to it?

The attic is part of the conditioned house space. It's not incredible hot.

A few more things:


Camco 40043 TastePURE RV/Marine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

303 (30306) Aerospace Protectant,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBCURW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Camco RV Brass Inline Water... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD08U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These are fun but not a requirement:

MPOWERD Luci Solar String Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KYPDPKC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

MPOWERD 1004-005-001-002 Luci Lux... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076JSCMPG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Again not a necessity but I like it, keeps your water house pointed down not out

The Everything Candida Diet Book:... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD03K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Love this because depending on where you are, it’s really nice to have an extra water source for washing things and keeping dust down on the road

2wayz All Metal Body Garden Hose Splitter. Newly Upgraded (2017): 100% Secured, Bolted & Threaded. Easy Grip, Smooth Long Handles y Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MS0HK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fOhxDb2J6NVSQ

While I couldn't find anything for $0.18, here are some of my cheapest finds:

• 90-Degree Elbow of PVC Pipe Fitting (3/4" Slip) - $0.43 + Free Prime Shipping
  
  
• Elmer's Glue (4oz Bottle) - $0.50 + Free Prime Shipping
  
  
• Roller Chain Connecting Link (8 mm Pitch) - $0.54 + Free Prime Shipping
  
  
• Makeup Blender Sponge - $0.79 + Free Shipping
  
  
• Skull Mask Bandana - $0.86 + Free Shipping

I just redid my kitchen as well so I bought one of these and one of these to clean up the ends, to make sure I got a clean cut every time. If you think you might do more pex work in future, probably worth dropping $20 to get them.

But if this is a one time thing, pex is pretty soft - you could use a hacksaw, or even a utility knife, and just clean up the cut with the knife afterward. Key is to make sure your cut is perpendicular to the pipe, and that there are NO stray bits of plastic around the rim at the cut end Put a little bevel on the end with a knife for best results. And make a little mark 1" from the end of the pipe, so you can make sure it is inserted all the way into the fitting.

Yeah i have heard of this. I am from Canada so i don't think i can order it. I tried to get everything i needed this week since i have the whole week free. Would the badger one do the job like this one ?https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0006MZPLG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

Yeah this would probably require an adapter like this one basically.. it look like a lots like the badger spray gun.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004RCOY5O/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB

The only piece I had to fabricate is the little black cube in the top. I made that from a piece of 1/2" acrylic. I drilled a 90 degree hole into the top and side of it. Then used epoxy to attach it to the fan with the wires going through it. I had to snip the wire adapter off to do this. The holes I drilled into the cube were the exact same diameter of the male piece of the quick connect barb. This kept it snug but also allowed it to rotate in the hole.

Next, I then fished the wires through the quick connect fittings and through the quick connect bulkhead. After the wiring was all the way though, i re-soldered the wire adapter and used heat shrink tubing to seal it all together.

Once everything was wired up I connected the fans to a 4 channel PC fan controller and fired it up. I do have to say I am very happy with the results.fan closeups

All parts were bought on amazon or ebay. Mistkings fittings while black are nice, they are very expensive compared to the white ones I found on amazon. The fans were bought on ebay and were very cheap. I estimate I built 4 of the fans for about $30.00 USD

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vktech-5Pcs-Black-Brushless-DC-Cooling-Blower-Fan-5015S-5V-0-1-0-3A-50x15mm-/183518100748?hash=item2aba87fd0c


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGR2ILM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ2PLCR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Personally, OP, I wouldn’t use a garden hose from outside. It would require you to leave it on all the time, and I don’t trust garden hoses to be on all day, let alone 24/7. Also, I don’t know about this particular maker, but a lot of higher end machines have liquid level boards and sensors so they know when and how much to refill automatically.

I would plumb from a sink indoors, so you don’t have to worry about freezing/bursting hoses and tubing during the cold months if you’re in certain climates. Tap into a sink with the following, if you plan to do it yourself (I usually urge people to hire professionals though):


http://www.hhdonline.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=F58A52082DA6422091676E0C5554B675

(This hooks onto the shut-off for your sink—the compression nut goes onto the tube first, then the delrin sleeve [linked examples of all of those below] goes on the outside of your 1/4” JG tubing. The brass insert goes inside, then you screw it onto the tee. I would also add one of the plastic shut-off valves to your line under the sink before you run the rest of the line)

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/heating-and-cooling/air-conditioners-and-coolers/evaporative-cooler-parts-and-accessories/4518155

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/heating-and-cooling/air-conditioners-and-coolers/evaporative-cooler-parts-and-accessories/4265013


I would connect one of these under the sink and behind your espresso maker, but I’m overly cautious. I would also add a second shut-off for your water line right before the machine.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-Fit-Quick-Connect-Water-Leak-Controller-3-8-3-8-Emergency-Shut-Off-RO-/273006090140

John Guest PPSV040808WP Single Straight Shut-Off Valve, 1/4" Tube OD x 1/4" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YKF2E2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xOOkDbE3T1Q0K

As a safety measure, I also like to use these, they clip behind the little protruding plastic pieces that go over the hose.

https://www.freshwatersystems.com/products/john-guest-locking-clip-1-4

As for that white fitting at the end of the blue line, I’m assuming that you’re supposed to put that on the machine, yes? Plastic fittings are fine, but these are an option if it ever strips, starts leaking, etc.:


https://www.freshwatersystems.com/products/john-guest-lead-free-brass-flare-female-connector-1-4-x-1-4-ffl


John Guest NC2098LF Female Garden Hose Connector, 1/4" OD x 3/4 (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N4NJ1WI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ONOkDbNXJE6J2

As for any tips on John guest, I try not to bend in too many harsh angles—if you need are short on space, use an adapter with an elbow on it so the tubing doesn’t bend going into the machine. Bends and warps mean leak if you have to forcefully bend it to make the connection.

Again, worth it to see what a plumber costs and if they can do it, but I hope this helps!

Is there any particular reason you're using that glass? It looks like its already fractured, and may be jagged around the edges. From the looks of it, you may be better off using a brass bowlpiece, it wouldn't look too bad either. You can usually get them at headshops. That way you would just bore a hole slightly smaller then the bowl and screw it in, no adhesive required. Something like this is what im think of: https://www.amazon.com/TWO-Standard-Pipe-Bowls-BRASS/dp/B005MGU5TI
Anywho, good luck!

There are a ton of ways to do this. I just bought a system off of amazon, (ispring water RCC7). Super easy install. Comes with a valve that goes in between the faucet and the shutoff valve under the sink. No permenant modification needed. SHut off the water to the faucet, unscrew the tube going to the faucet, install the diverter valve, turn water back on.

Don't want a RO faucet on the counter? Get a 1/4" shutoff valve, 5 bucks on amazon. Don't wan to drill into the drain? Run the drain line up and just fix it to the edge of the sink with tape or putty or hot glue or something. It won't be super pretty, but it'll work great, and be completely removable and movable in about 20 min.

RO Unit: ~$190 USD https://smile.amazon.com/iSpring-RCC7-Certified-5-Stage-Drinking/dp/B003XELTTG/

shutoff valve (in lieu of a counter-mounted faucet) https://smile.amazon.com/John-Guest-PPSV040808WP-Straight-Shut-Off/dp/B003YKF2E2

Sorry the terminology is mixed up on my end. I had been on a motorcycle board and was thinking about something else. I meant a sillcock key. I was in a fog of antibiotics and codeine when I replied. :)

http://www.amazon.com/Jones-Stephens-J40-005-Four-Way/dp/B000DZKYVC

Check out this video on why it's helpful. It's a great addition to your filter, especially if you're in any kind of urban area. Once you start looking for these kind of water sources, they are all over

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygfv-nkvjxU

You may not need a frost free in FL, but you should install one with an integral vacuum breaker (anti-siphon). This prevents water from the hose being siphoned back into your potable water system. Anymore, hose bibbs with a vacuum breaker are required by code, and most of them just happen to also be frost free (meaning the actual valve is housed at the back of the fixture, which would place it inside the conditioned space of the house instead of outside at the point of use).

This is what you want. If you scroll down and look at "People also bought..." you'll see a SharkBite FIP. Get that, as well. Cut your pipe back inside the house to where it needs to be using a tubing cutter (NOT a hacksaw... you need a clean cut), pop the SharkBite FIP on, and screw the new sillcock into it (with a couple wraps of tape). The SharkBite can rotate on the pipe, so the orientation of your new hose bibb is whatever you want it to be; just screw it onto the house when it's pointing the right way.

Here are some Reddits that may provide you with additional information.

/r/bicycletouring

/r/Bushcraft

/r/CampFireCooking

/r/DumpsterDiving

/r/entomophagy

/r/foraging

/r/mycology

/r/survival

/r/Whatisthisplant

/r/whatisthismushroom

Equip yourself with items that will keep you dry and warm in all kinds of weather.

You need water and a means to carry it, sterilize it and acquire it.

Be able to cook food and make hot drinks. You need to be able to acquire food using multiple options.

Free first aid training.

Free map and compass course.

Get in good physical condition.

This pipe is fine. Haters are going to hate on anything that isn't glass, when there are a great many cheaper materials that work perfectly for pipe making. I have been using brass and brass pipe screens for years, and have had no problems with it. Brass fittings are lead free, and that's the only legitimate concern. Otherwise, the pipe may get a little hot, but it has never got too hot for me to not be able to touch the pipe. I do have one recommendation, though. Get one of these off of Amazon. It's a brass bowl that will screw into that pipe and then you'll have a real bowl. You will probably need some Brass Pipe Screens for it too, but none of this is expensive, and the brass bowl comes in a set of 2, so you can have two pipes. I've had the same pipe for over a year, and it still works perfectly. And the major advantage that brass has over glass: you can drop it without it shattering.

Thanks for the reply. The reason for my question was the first user amd multiple other comments [here.] (http://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-Mfg-660-H-4-Inch/dp/B000H5MQNM/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Does it make sense?

"When you mount this device, mount it directly on the back of the washing machine. This way the cylinder is aligned with the momentum of the water column that needs to be slowed. If you mount it instead at the other end of the washing machine hoses, this is not aligned and the performance will be significantly less effective. When properly mounted, these are GREAT!!!"

I was just curious as to Water Hammer Arrestor.I found this on Amazon, it has different sizes and looks like it could fix your issue, quick and easy for a DIY'r.

Getting a timer, might work. This is what I use for my water solution for plants.

Timer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004INGS8S

Mini Resistor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5MQNM

Splitter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019MS0HK8

Works perfectly and I never have to adjust it unless a week long rain is in the forecast.

Fyi. Just did this project. I used

Superior Tool 35034 3/4-Inch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q0QOVE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And

SharkBite Deburring Pipe and... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K6QFSU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Make sure your cutting tool is the right size though. It was a breeze for me.

I had the same thing with my airbrush
I had to buy a thing that goes between your brush and compressor, I forgot what it's called tho lol
I'll try to look it up and I'll get back to you

Edit: I had to buy this thing Viair 90001 1/8" Female BSP - 1/4" Male NPT Adaptor - 2 Piece https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004RCOY5O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SIY6CbTTW2P8A

But double check what size you need for your set up, because it might be different. There are also sets with like 8 different ones, so you can get one of those if you really want to.

Yeah, you can get them at places like Home Depot and amazon for around $25.

https://smile.amazon.com/PlumBest-M25127R3-2-Inch-27-Inch-Water/dp/B0069QU7Z2

Looks like this. The valve part is set back so the water cuts off inside your house. So there is less chance it will freeze.

Homewerks VFF-ASP-C19PA Anti-Siphon Frost Free Sillcock, 1/2-Inch Male Thread or 1/2-Inch Solder, 1/2-Inch inlet by ¾ inch garden hose thread outlet by 12-Inch in length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D4VE1MA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hwqiDb9VY8SBX

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008E5CUFG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I used. Works great

Can you give us a scenario of when you would use this? I didn't think finding a faucet outside with threads was particularly hard. Finding one without threads seems hard, but I know of one.

Probably right up your alley but please ask permission from someone first, (except in an emergency.) No one cares if you fill a water jug, they require a key for the outside outlets because they don't want some jerk to come along and just leave the water running.

Does anyone know where I can find square tube fittings like https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Alloy-Square-Connector-Fittings/dp/B01G6Z6B1Y and https://www.amazon.com/Square-Tube-Fittings-Way-Plate/dp/B00HRY2U4G?

​

I've called a bunch of companies here and they don't have it. It seems that the preferred way here to join square tubing here is welding!

Rubber softy bits are your friend 99 cents on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/BJLong-Soft-Live-Rubber-Pipe/dp/B009GKDIHM

I tried a few options and ended up going to a metal supply store. Grabbed some 1x1 aluminum tube, had them cut two 16ft lengths in half and then ordered these

Aluminum Alloy 3 Way L Shape Square Tube Clamp Tube Connector Pipe Fittings

I mostly use it for low risk stuff but it’s pretty solid. You should at least buy the right grip gear to hold this stuff down.

If you do not have a water hammer arrestor plumbed in near the washing machine you'll get more frequent failures like these. During normal operation of the machine, at the time when the machine is shutting off the water intake, that thumping noise you hear is an increase of water pressure that likes to blow out hoses or washers.

For around $20 you can get a small arrestor that would be plumbed in between the hose and your water line. If you keep getting problems... well, that's the fix.

Pretty stupid of the show as homeowners do employ surge protectors for water to protect possessions. I have personally purchased and installed a few of these on my old house which is on a well with waterhammer, and most home have them on the washing machine outlets.

http://www.amazon.com/Water-Surge-Shock-Absorber-660-H/dp/B000H5MQNM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

http://www.amazon.com/Washing-Machine-Water-Absorber-660-T/dp/B000RPW420/ref=pd_cp_hi_3

How about one of these? Recommended by one of my teachers, and other teachers who have seen it have not objected.

When I use one, it allows me to have a firm hold on the bow without having to grip hard. You can also buy plain rubber tubing that is sold as a cello grip, but I like that this is contoured.

http://imgur.com/a/TyCM3

5.55 Free shipping in my Misc Wishlist its a Jones Stephens J40-005 Four Way Key

Would these help with the washer? Or is it what you already have? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013TLMCZM/ref=asc_df_B013TLMCZM5270139

I bought one of these and shut my own valve off at the street. It's easy if you know where it is. Nobody will ever know...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069QU7Z2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_-WFTDbF7MASXY

That gave me a great idea! What if I bought all 5 of these items and rigged them up in order onto a 12 oz soda bottle:

• PET Bottle "Carbonator" Cap
  
  
• Disconnect with 1/4" flared male
  
  
• 1/4" flared female to 1/4" MPT
  
  
• 1/4" FPT coupling
  
  
• 1/4 MPT Digital Pressure Gauge

Or you can buy arrestors already made for this situation that look like this https://www.amazon.ca/Sioux-Chief-660-H-4-Inch-Female/dp/B000H5MQNM

Sounds like hammering. It's not usually a big deal - just a nuisance. But, obviously, if the hammering is violent enough, it can break the pipe at the solder or even split the pipe.




The first bang and the lower bangs sounds exactly like hammering though. The first bang is the initial "heave" caused by the sudden stop of water and the other smaller ones are just the pipe continuing to oscillate for a few seconds.





Like I said before, have someone flush a toilet from your side and see if that does it on their side. If that's the case, you can buy one of these:



http://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-Mfg-660-H-4-Inch/dp/B000H5MQNM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394494287&sr=8-1&keywords=sioux+chief+mini+rester




Really easy to install and should help.





Or...you can manually lower the water pressure in your house by turning down the valve just after the water meter (not recommended as a long term solution).

It appears they make all kinds of adapters. You'll need to check to make sure you're meeting connection requirements for whatever fluid/gas is traveling in those lines though.

https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-6783-4-Inch-Female-Adapter/dp/B008E5CUFG

Pick up some of these, will enable you to route the tube flat against the top and out the back for a cleaner look. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ2PLCR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yPQRCbDGAP8MA
Been considering doing a float valve with my breville to avoid constant filling.

Add water hammer arresters on at your washer. Both hot and cold sides

John Guest valve

this to this to this
of course you could just buy this

It's a hose bibb. You might try this bibb key

Yup, I had to buy that coupling for the compressor

https://www.amazon.ca/Viair-90001-Female-BSP-Adaptor/dp/B004RCOY5O

https://www.amazon.com/BJLong-Soft-Live-Rubber-Pipe/dp/B009GKDIHM

I put these on the back of my washer. No more banging when the water valves close.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5MQNM/

You might already have air chamber shock absorbers, in which case you could recharge them: shut off the main, open all fixtures to drain the pipes, let it sit awhile, close the fixtures, turn on the main. See if that reduces the hammer, and then see how long it lasts.

Otherwise just install the screw-on hammer arresters at the washing machine and any other fixture that's causing water hammer:

https://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-Mfg-660-H-4-Inch/dp/B000H5MQNM

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JRGAMQ/ref=asc_df_B000JRGAMQ4949869

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RI63BW/ref=psdc_3226897011_t2_B000JRGAMQ

Jones Stephens J40-005 Four Way Key https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZKYVC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_RB4Dwb6GVQQM3

He's referring to these. The hose bib valves outside commercial buildings don't have handles to keep people from stealing water. You'll need one to get water to your filter.