Reddit mentions: The best towing hitches

I bought a used volt right after my graduation this spring. 2013 with ~41k miles. Traded up from an 04 Jeep Wrangler and haven't had any regrets at all.

To address your concerns about space:
The volt fit way more stuff in it than I was expecting, especially if you are able to fold the rear seats down. I was able to fit a foldable 8ft table, a mini fridge, two large bags of clothes, microwave, TV and a few boxes of kitchen stuff and other knick knacks if that kinda gives you an idea of how much camping equipment you could pack.
I also installed a hitch (Curt Manufacturing CURT 11221... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072UHJ8W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) for exclusive use with a bike rack. Did the install with my dad and with the right tools it wasn't bad at all.

As for my considerations buying used:
The general consensus I found online (largely from this sub, thanks y'all) was that Volts are well built and reliable, especially regarding the battery so I wasn't too concerned about range degradation and just and went with one I found within my budget and general location (was not a very wide selection). I maybe could have shopped around a little more, had one shipped to a dealer near me, etc. but I found one that fit most of what I was looking for and didn't really have time to be picky. One thing I do wish I would have payed more attention to was tire wear as I'm likely going to have to replace mine soon but live and learn I guess.
Having a 2013+ is nice because you get a slightly bigger battery over previous models I believe. You also get hold mode which is nice for road trips but by no means a necessity. Mine also has heated seats which I hear are great in the winter because they're much more efficient on the battery than blowing hot air. Haven't had had to test this yet and won't be a big issue for me in south Texas anyway but I think it would be worth considering for colder climates.
I don't have a backup camera. This was concerning to me at first. The volt is really pretty awful as far as rear visibility is concerned, at least compared to my jeep. After a about a month though it started feeling normal and isn't a big concern for me anymore. I thought about installing one aftermarket but getting it integrated into the original infotainment system was more complex/expensive than I deemed worth and I didn't want to mess with adding other screens or projecting to my phone or anything like that.

When it came to picking a volt in general. After factoring in the value of my Jeep + cost savings from way better fuel economy + the savings of using electricity vs gas I realized the volt would pay for itself in less than 5 years + I get nice things my jeep didn't have like Bluetooth audio, remote doors, and maybe most importantly for me reliable AC so it just made sense for me.
As a previous commenter alluded to, everyone's finances are different so it's totally up to you to decide if a volt is worth it for you.
I'm three months in and so far loving my decision. A PHEV is a perfect fit for me. I make regular trips ~400 miles to see family and friends so full electric wasn't viable. But during a typical week I get to drive on all electric all the time for ~ ½ the price of gas. As far as I could tell the Volt is the best PHEV at its price point for a used ~ 5 year old model.

Sorry for being a little long winded but I hope this helps your decision. And congrats on your upcoming graduation!

So the hitch that I found sits comfortably behind the number and actually affects the exit angle very little if at all. I'll also be getting a 1 1/4 to 2 inch adapter that is technically only meant for class II hitches, but for only holding a spare tire, it will be fine. It's also fine for holding a bike rack or something. I'll edit this comment when I'm at my computer and show you what I'm getting

EDIT:

1. This is the hitch that I will be using. If you look at the pictures, it seems very discrete without much taken away from exit angle.
   
   
2. This is the best one that I can find for your car. There aren't any pictures form reviews, but it sounds like in the comments that it is also discrete, although there's no guarantee. If that one doesn't work, something custom is probably your only option.
   
   
3. This is the adapter that you can use. Just remember that as a general rule of thumb, your towing capacity is cut in half if you use one of these, just as a safety precaution. Towing with an adapter also depends on how strong the pin is that you're using to hold it into the base hitch.
   
   
4. This is the tire holder that I am probably going to get. It seems a little short, but I measured on my car and it should be alright. If it is way too short, you can get a hitch riser like this
   
   
5. THIS is the tire carrier that I want, because it is very very strong and the cheaper one folds to the side, which is really nice. I don't know if I'll be able to afford it, though, so I'll see
   If all this metal that's bolted to your car is rattling around way too much because of the couple millimeters of play in the hitches, pick yourself up a couple of these and it's problem solved.
   
   Hope this helps! If you want to know anything else, let me know
   
   
   Edit 2: formatting

Tire chain tools:

Chaindawg, purchase


cheater chains you can build these yourself at any hardware store for $5. They're good for driving around yards, getting out of a dock that you're stuck in our getting unstuck from being parked all night after a snowfall or due to sinking into ice. These are not a replacement for chaining up under a chain law, I keep a few sets of these in my bag. All they are is a length of chain with a simple hook like on your tire chains.


another example of cheater chains


other tools that are available

cam tool this is my favorite style of tightening tool as it's easier to use in the back. I've seen one sold in some backwoods truck stop that had a handle like a socket wrench. I've been looking for it since last year, wish I bought it when I saw it.

Fifth wheel pull hook it's useful for putting on a set of singles. reach through between the tires and pull the chain end through so you can hook it before driving over them.

chainpro still haven't seen it for sale anywhere

I've seen some pretty cool hand tools over the years at truck stops to help with chaining up. Kind of wish I picked some of them up as they don't seem to be easy to find online.

Otherwise there's a lot of gimmicks out there.

I have this one and I love it! It required some drilling to install, but with a new drill bit, the drill goes through like butter. My trailer is pretty small, so I could easily get by with a Class I hitch, but I like having the Class II because you never know. I realize the car isn't rated for towing, but this car is easily capably of towing a small trailer. For the wiring, I bought this and this which wasn't too bad to install. I had to remove quite a bit of trim and stuff from the back to get at everything, and then I routed the output wire to the area behind the little battery door, so I can just remove that little door to get at the wires.

All in all, I love this hitch. You can barely see it from behind, and it has almost no impact on the foot-activated liftgate, other than in the absolute center of the rear bumper.

I'm going to assume this will be a generic mall crawler and not leave the pavement very often. If you plan to take it wheeling, reply back and I will add a few more suggestions.

Things to think about

1. The hardtop takes up a lot of room. Either plan on putting in some sort of hoist to store it up high or giving up a lot of garage space.
   
   
2. Until you have the previously mentioned hoist in place, the hardtop is a pain in the ass to put on and take off without help. Not because its heavy, but because its awkward. It also means that you can't just drop the top if the day is nicer than expected. On my old jeep, I eventually sold the hardtop and went soft top only. On my new Jeep, I skipped the hard top entirely.
   
   If you plan on storing instruments in the vehicle and need the secure storage, great. If not, then the soft top is the way to go in my opinion.
   
   
3. For long haul trips, the back seats suck. The angle of the backrest on the rear seats is a bit steep and becomes uncomfortable after awhile. Also, there is no support under the center of the back seat. If the person in the middle is heavy, the seat could sag and become even more uncomfortable. There are a few aftermarket products to address both seat sagging and the recline issue but I've never tested them.
   
   
   Options to consider:
   
   
4. 3.73 gears will cost you ~$600 or so. If you ever plan on putting on bigger tires or towing, you want the 3.73 gears. The 3.21 gears will give you an extra mile or so per gallon but at the expense of quite a bit of power.
   
   
5. Don't buy either of the tow packages. The basic tow package costs around $350 and is just a hitch and wiring harness. You can buy the same receiver hitch on its own for $75. The wiring harness just clips in and its a quick and easy 4 bolt install.
   
   The Max tow package is almost as bad a deal. That's $900 and gives you the $3.73 gears ($600 above) and the hitch in one package. Still better to buy the gears on their own and use your own hitch.
   
   
   
6. Spiderweb Shade This is a must have if you plan on going topless very often. The best part is that once its installed, you never have to remove it. It fits right under the factory tops.
   
   
7. Unless you plan on putting in an aftermarket sound system, spend the money for the alpine upgrade. Without it you can't hear the music over the sound of the wind if you have the top down.
   
   
8. Hood latches - There are several options, both with and without keys. If you live in a zero crime area, great...but for the rest of us, a set of keyed hood latches will help keep your battery from getting stolen. Also, the hood flutters at high speed with the stock latches. That makes me nervous.
   
   
9. Door hinge locks are also a good idea. Jeep doors are easy to take off, expensive to replace, and are stolen more often than you would think. While not foolproof, they are better than nothing...especially if you don't keep the key to them in the jeep itself.
   
   
   
   

Also, the 2 door has several advantages, like a very tight turning circle - helpful on anything from trails to mall parking lots.

I assume the Sport S comes with the 32" tires? That and the 3.73 ratio and pretty much the only things I'd consider essential. (Well, AC too, if you're not going topless all the time, but maybe I'm just a wimp.) But I don't think you can get locking rear diffs on it from the factory...I thought they only came with lockers on Rubicons, and there was just the option for limited slip? Personally, I didn't bother with limited slip. The BLD system is pretty good, so I don't know if I'll ever put lockers in.

I'd suggest going to a dealership and taking a look. The rear seat folds up in a weird way. There's probably enough room, but I'd want to check to see if there's enough room for your gear.

For other stuff that's less sensitive to the elements, you can bolt on a hitch pretty easily and get a cargo carrier. That's the one I've got...notably, the lip is low enough for rear door to open without taking off the cargo carrier.

A Saris Bones is an OK trunk rack. That's as good as a trunk rack gets. It can rub on your paint, and I don't like the way it holds the bikes by the top tube.

In general, trunk racks are garbage though. If you're going to use it regularly, do yourself a favor and invest in a towing receiver and proper hitch mounted rack. You can get a Curt hitch with free shipping from Amazon for around $130. I installed it myself with one friend and a socket wrench. It's super no-brainer 100% easy. Then get a wheels-on hitch rack like a Kuat Transfer or something similar. They contact the bike only on the tires/wheels and don't touch the frame at all. The bikes don't sway, the wheels don't turn. The rack doesn't contact your paint at all, and can be tipped out of the way so that the hatch can open even with 2 bikes loaded.

​

But if you're rarely going to move bikes around, the Saris Bones is fine. Roof racks are a pain in the ass.

>In the Prius Prime manual, the instructions indicate no towing

It's a legal liability thing.

Subcompact cars are light weight and short wheel bases. They really have no towing capacity regardless. But as long as you are not zooming around at 80mph while having a crapload of stuff hanging off the back then they are fine.

That is why you can only find things like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufacturing-114733-Class-Trailer/dp/B06Y5K3GTT/

That's a little Curtis Class 1 hitch for a Prius.

Class 1 hitches are the weakest possible hitch you can find...

https://www.drawtite-hitches.com/learning_center/general-towing-classes

>Class I hitches are weight carrying (WC) hitches rated up to 2000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 200 lbs.

That's really nothing. Joke really.

Gross trailer weight includes the weight of the trailer and everything on it. So a 300 pound trailer would leave you just 1700 pounds capacity, but really I wouldn't trust a small car with anything more then 500-700 pounds or so. Which is plenty if you think about it.

​

200 pounds tongue weight means the pressure on the actual hitch. When towing you need to have the weight a bit forward on trailer so it presses down on the rear tires of the tow vehicle. *

But for a bicycle rack? As long as you don't exceed the 200 pound tongue limit (and that includes the rack itself) then it's going to be perfectly safe. That is not any worse than having a big guy sitting in your back seat.

If you are looking to haul more than 2 ebikes then that can become a problem, depending on how heavy they are.

​

Something like this would be fine on a subcompact car. I wouldn't go any bigger.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612543_200612543

​

That's very tiny.

Bolt a piece of exterior-grade plywood to it, screw in some 2x4s spaced just enough for the bicycle tires to slot into and attach the bike upright with a pair of cargo straps. You could haul 4 bicycles around pretty easily and safely that way. Or a kayaks, canoe, small John boat, lawn mower, etc.

A good alternative to roof rack, but that's really just it.

​

*(If you have the weight towards the back of the trailer then that can cause the trailer to pull UP on the hitch on bumps... which can reduce traction to the rear wheels and cause issues like these. Notice how most of these accidents the campers/trailers have a bunch of extra crap hanging off the back. That's just asking for trouble.)

Yah fawkes will be awesome, I'm waiting on some stand alone shackle mounts from them but they are pretty much made to order on a lot of parts it looks (8 week wait time for the shackle tabs) When you said underneath I figured you meant like this....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MDBF6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_cZ-4xbB9KHWXS

This is the tow hitch I used:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TNNFMC/

And this is the cargo carrier that attaches:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E2AJ6O/

The carrier is rated for 300 lbs, but the tC's tongue weight is only rated for 200 lbs, so I try to keep it well under that (the dry weight of one of my mopeds is around 100 lbs). I use some ratcheting straps and it works like a charm.

I could probably also tow a small utility trailer for a motorcycle or kayaks or canoe or something like that, but I've never tried it. I think you could probably tow about 1000 lbs fairly easily though. The tC is geared low and has 160 hp so I'm sure it would be fine for light duty.

In my opinion, $800 for a roof rack isn't a great investment for a college student; at least for me it wasn't. I'd just check craigslist/ebay regularly for a nice used one. I agree those things are way too expensive. I wanted one for my bike when I had my Focus, but ended up installing a hitch for about $100 from Amazon and a nice used Yakima hitch bike rack. They make some decent cargo racks that can be used on a hitch as well. I'd say if you're handy with a wrench and you have the time, pick up a nice Curt hitch and a decent cargo rack for a fraction of the cost. Just keep in mind there are 2 standard size hitches and the Focus hitch is the smaller size.

I got a drawtite hitch from etrailer and highly recommend(https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Mazda/CX-5/2018/76138.html).

I actually bought a curt hitch and didn't like how you had to basically leave a plug zip-tied somewhere(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S18BY2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Also don't recommend buying a hitch from Amazon because of shady packaging. The packaging was exposing the hitch. I had to use my etrailer packaging to return the hitch because UPS wouldn't accept the packaging that Amazon shipped it in.

I'm a pretty dedicated biker, so having something easy to put the bike in and out was well worth the investment for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Kuat-Racks-Bike-Rack-Metallic/dp/B01G7PTMQ4/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537223600&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=kuat+bike+rack&psc=1&smid=AY1YC2BWA3QO7
Highly recommended the Kuat racks.

I used Curt Hitches for both the front and back of my XJ. I tried a Reese hitch but it was a huge piece of shit (and I dont use that term often). It was multiple pieces and after it was installed it was a few inches off the ground. Total piece of crap.

Anyway back to the Curt hitches. I ordered both off of amazon so shipping was free. The came packaged well and were both one piece hitches. They did a good job on the finish and had really nice welds all around. They also came with all bolts and a tool to fish the bolts through the frame. Both of them when installed had the receiver just below the bumper.

Here's the back

[Here's the front] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ES21EE/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I have a Mazda 3 as well! it is a different generation than yours though. i just remembered the key to what makes my system work. I have a hitch on the back for a bike rack. so I would also use a canoe loader bar like this one. It worked for me because i already had the canoe loader bar thing from using it with a previous truck, and the hitch was there for the bike rack. so that wasn't an up front cost to me. but really, i suggest it. the hitch is useful to have and easy to install yourself. and this bar is cheap. Look at the pictures of cars using it on the amazon link.

Another thing to consider is to make sure to match the coupler with the hitch ball but NOT BY USING A HITCH ADAPTER!!! Most hitch adapter drops the maximum safe tongue weight significantly, usually by half. Your hitch is probably a class I or II receiver hitch. The ball mount size will be limited for those two and will probably be a 1 7/8" ball. Your trailer, given the size, probably has a coupler for 2" or 2 5/16" ball. What I'm saying is, do not use an adapter like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CE09N4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to use a larger shank and ball. Instead, swap out the coupler to fit the smaller ball.

I use the above adapter for my CT200h but only to attach a cargo basket and I'm extra mindful of the reduced weight capacity.

Does your vehicle have a reese hitch? I use a rotating t post reese canoe loader to load a 16' OT Penobscot canoe on my Honda Element. It's super slick and easy. You just pick up one end of the upside down boat and put it on the t post. Bungee it in place and then walk to the back of the boat and pick it up while swiveling the whole thing around the vehicle to secure the front end to the front tow hooks under the front bumper. Add a belly band and some rear tie downs, (wlready attached to the boat and go.

Wow, that looks like a very well taken-care-of Bronco. How many miles are on it the the rear diff needed to be rebuilt (essentially)?

I think the best way to carry a spare, if there is something wrong with the swing out carrier (this is my opinion), would be to have the faulty spare tire carrier removed entirely, and have your local welding shop fabricate you a spare tire carrier that slides into your hitch receiver. Don't buy one off of Amazon, you'll get cheap Chinese crap.

If you want to be able to tow and not have said hitch receiver tire carrier be in the way, then you just put this Gen-Y Hitch Receiver Adapter in your 2" hitch receiver, put your ball hitch in the bottom receiver, and put that tire carrier in the top one.

I have one and they are worth every penny. Made in the USA and rated for 10,000lbs. No Bronco was ever rated for more than about 7000 as far as I know.

no. the Golf/GTI is limited to a class 1 hitch.

BUT they make 1.25 > 2" adapters. super common.

https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-70032-inches-Hitch-Adaptor/dp/B008CE09N4/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1IKIE59PW6YY1&keywords=hitch+adapter+1+1%2F4+to+2+inch&qid=1574189278&s=automotive&sprefix=hitch+adapter+1%2Cautomotive%2C223&sr=1-5

you WOULD NOT want to do this if you were actually towing. you dont want to exceed the class I hitch ratings. but since this is just for a bike rack you'r well safe of that fact. just know, if you ever actually tow something, use the class I 1.25" hitch

To go along with another poster, this is the type of tow hitch I put on my wifes’ car. Research before buying, but hers was just bolts into factory threaded holes in the frame. Only thing I had to do was run a tap in the threads as the car was a few years old and they had some surface rust. They’ve got these for pretty much any make and model. Then you can get any hitch style rack and not worry about the frame. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00537G3CY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1-C4CbT8T6CE5

I installed the CURT 11412 hitch on my MK7 and MK7.5. It was pretty easy to install, only about 30 minutes and a few bolts.

Class 1 Trailer Hitch with Ball Mount, 1-1/4-Inch Receiver Black 1-1/4" for for Select Volkswagen Golf, GTI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0133WU3K8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VwEWCb4BGXSG0

Hitches are the way to go! Im currently using the Curt 11412 hitch on my '19 gti. I had a curt hitch on my veloster and it served me well. Amazon will state this will not fit on the '19 gti's but i confirmed on curt's site that i will in fact fit. Installed without any issues!

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0133WU3K8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you!

Here is a list of all the items I purchased to do this:
Front Reciever
Drop Hitch
Plow

Just make sure that anything you order is for your year & model, as those links (the receiver specifically) is for my year.

Also have this for the back.

RHINO USA Shackle Hitch Receiver, Best Towing Accessories for Trucks & Jeeps, Connect Your Rhino Tow Strap for Vehicle Recovery to This 31,418 lbs Capacity Reciever, Mounts to 2” Receivers! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WLMF23C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NMaCCbZT4J9PZ

It does stick out, obviously you don’t have to keep it if you don’t need it.

RHINO USA Shackle Hitch Receiver, Best Towing Accessories for Trucks & Jeeps, Connect Your Rhino Tow Strap for Vehicle Recovery to This 31,418 lbs Capacity Reciever, Mounts to 2” Receivers! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WLMF23C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ohT3Cb8RX8XF8

I have used a hitch mounted back rack for many trips. It works great and can hold 300-500 pounds depending on the rack. Link for Hitch and rack. Video of install.

This might be your best option.

Reese Towpower 7020500 1-1/4" to 2" Receiver Adapter - 6" Long https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001IH8Q0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZaLSBbV3T16H9

looks like this one will fit.

Yea that would be impossible then. Btw, picked one of these up from Canadian Tire. Super handy unless you already have recovery hooks

https://www.amazon.ca/Bestop-42922-01-HighRock-Receiver-Recovery/dp/B001892VMC

Edit: this is overpriced. They are $50 at Canadian Tire.

Shouldn't be recovering with a towing receiver...
use somthing like this...

I went with 2" since it's easier to go down than it is to go up.

Got this for my 2017 cx5, not certain it fits the newer ones

Curt 13315 Black 2" Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver for 2013-2018 Mazda CX-5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071S18BY2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lHZBCbCFCV8R5

I installed my own ... it took about 1 hour and really wasn't all that tough.

I installed this hitch receiver https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S18BY2

And this wiring harness https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tekonsha/118563.html

You do have to disconnect the exhaust from its hangers (which is easy) and support the exhaust during the install. I did this with a ratcheting tie down.

You might be better off just doing this yourself.

Hijacking the top comment to post this:

NO HE DID NOT WELD THAT

https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-70355-class-Hitch-Adapter/dp/B00ISLA1WA/ref=sr_1_5?gclid=CjwKCAiAqqTuBRBAEiwA7B66hb-zkBGwN2wxk1GauHSg0UFzgHUcNEZnpfOe2HNRXiKyRnyFWARjYRoCLhQQAvD_BwE&hvadid=323586739560&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9024248&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=5833784479784469206&hvtargid=kwd-781164020063&hydadcr=18942_10719460&keywords=trailer+hitch+adapter+2+inch+to+1+1%2F4&qid=1573497460&sr=8-5

2 of those ^

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-45110-Class-Ball-Mount/dp/B0007M308A/ref=sr_1_28?keywords=trailer+hitch+drop&qid=1573497493&sr=8-28

1 of those ^

He bolted a bunch of premanufactured adapters together to make this monstrosity

I just bought this the other day and installed it last night. Takes about an hour and is straight forward. You will be all set on the Jeep side of towing.

This guy knows his stuff.

I have a 2013 Volt. I used this hitch:

https://smile.amazon.com/CURT-11221-Class-Trailer-Hitch/dp/B0072UHJ8W

Then mount a motorcycle carrying rack on that. That should work just fine as long as it isn't over the weight limit for the hitch.

I bought this from Amazon. Mounts right to the frame. 3 bolts.

This is the hitch I have installed on my 2018 GTI https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0133WU3K8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kuat NV Base 2.0:

https://www.kuatracks.com/products/hitch/nv-base-2-0/

It's a 2" which works as-is on my wife's SUV. On the little car I have it attached to this 1 1/2" adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ISLA1WA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And to reduce the wobble, this stabilizer:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AM7XVS8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When using it with the 2" receiver, it has a built in stabilizer and needs nothiing extra.

Or you could buy one that isnt a riser like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CE09N4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00