Reddit mentions: The best trailer accessories

5050 is the SMD package size of the LED, 5mm x 5mm. That's the common one on RGB LED tape, but the white ones are probably smaller. Anything on amazon that says it's 12v ready should work, it has the resistors built in, just choose your color temperature and LED count per foot. I'd recommend warm white and a mediumish count, sorta every other or every third spacing.

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Here are a few, I haven't used any so can't recommend any.

On this one, you can see the little scissors line, most LED tape has that so you can buy long lengths and wire up custom sizes for whatever you want. https://www.amazon.com/Alpena-77443-FlexLEDs-8-Inch-White/dp/B00D1SWLGO

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Something like this might be better if you can screw it into something. I've seen the tape style get hot and fall off. With really good surface prep that probably won't be a problem. https://www.amazon.com/White-Marker-Truck-Trailer-Light/dp/B01GKOQVZC

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More dense LED count. https://www.amazon.com/AMBOTHER-Atmosphere-Underdash-Waterproof-Decoration/dp/B01N0ZC0S7

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These look like RGB leds, so maybe they're mixing colors to get amber? Or maybe they're RGBW and the white is amber? https://www.amazon.com/Ecosin-motorcycle-signal-Universal-lights/dp/B01K6YU7ES

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ALso check out www.superbrightleds.com

Looks like you have a 4 pin so that’s a good start. Even if you don’t have all the wiring such as reverse or brake, power it could easily be run. I have done that before on some trucks. You can cut the wiring you have and add a 7 blade socket.

You can use this wiring guide to help you. Make sure if you do run power from the battery you fuse it at the battery. I also recommend the largest gauge the blade connector will work with so you get the best charge on your batteries from the alternator (longer/shorter wire will have voltage drop).

If your vehicle does not have a brake controller by the OEM then you will wire that into the 7 way blade.

Do yourself a favor and go to autozone or where ever and look at the trailer lights section and pick up 2 lights like this. Mine were $4.99 each at the store. Use a 3/4 inch bit and drill out a hole in the support and install. It will take you 10 minutes to do both sides and it looks really, really clean.

Thanks for the complement. I have a poison spider louvered hood on its way and will go in on Saturday along with weathered "WARDAWG" decals (that was my unit call sign).

I am excited to see it start to come together!

Doesn't necessarily come with the receiving hitch and those are like $400.

The brake controller wiring harness is pretty easy to install. I got mine here and there's a video for the install: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/YWJ500170ABP

Get a Tekonsha brake controller from Amazon and this wiring harness: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NZQIDE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Finally, you need to get the Rover programmed to have a trailer. That was like $100 from a local Rover mechanic.

It's pretty easy to get a trailer to be road legal, I've built a few myself. It's a simple application process. As for wiring it, that's easy, too. You can buy a trailer lighting kit for less than $20

You need to install the six round female connector and I’m pretty sure you can buy the connector with plug-and-play for your exact vehicle, this one may fit. U-Haul stores sell them as well.

www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUPKDTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TVRGDbX4CDV6P

We actually bought a 13 pin and 7 blade housing and did it ourselves because nobody makes a harness like that.

docooler Tirol 13-Pin Trailer Plug 13-Pole Connector 12V Towbar Towing Caravan Truck Plug N Type Trailer End Plastic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S97S56C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S-juzb7EFQ4D8

Hopkins 47185 Multi-Tow Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Q80GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MakuzbBPYZNTN

We didn't use the 4 pin on the second link. Just cut it off. Assuming you haven't already wired up the brake controller, you need to tap into the red and black wire for the brake pedal and recommend a posi tap for that.

Good luck!

Its an inline probably 6.3 mm crimp (the one in the picture has probably been machine crimped but you can use these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/insulated-Female-terminals-connectors-Delivery/dp/B00A3VETO4/ref=sr_1_7?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1482250808&sr=1-7&keywords=terminal+crimps

They are pretty easily obtained especially for car stereo stuff
You can also get a male to go into this female unit

Hey! I just installed a brake controller in my 2006 Tunda (First gen). My brake adapter was taped to the wall of the left side behind and to the left of the parking brake.

I bought the adapter on amazon and that Tekonsha brake controller and it works great. I did have to ground one of the wires (You'll see... it's a black one with a loop at the end) I just unscrewed a bare bolt to the frame down there and put it on there. No big deal.

The hardest part was there was almost no room to move down there.

It's plug n play, so good luck! Be sure to test it out before you go on the road! Much different with a brake controller.

OP. go here: http://learn.adafruit.com/ssh-to-beaglebone-black-over-usb/installing-drivers-windows

1. Connect via USB after installing the adhoc networking drivers
   
2. Change your wireless subnet to include 192.168.7.*** (config your router to do this--starting IP = 192.168.7.100 subnet mask : 255.255.255.0)
   
3. Open up your terminal (in mac/linux, or putty in windows) and ssh to
   
   192.168.7.2
   
   User: root
   password: <blank>
   
   (no password!)
   
   If you are right about the changes you made you can just rename the file (unless you overwrote the conf file and it's not just being created from the factory); otherwise you should still be able to use this method to restore any files necessary (http://forum.kncminer.com/forum/main-category/main-forum/8941-ugent-who-can-extract-the-emmc-content-from-your-jupiter-for-me/page2)
   
   edit: it looks like they nerfed your board;
   get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Gino-Straight-Solder-Female-Connector/dp/B0094DXENY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382424200&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+solder (or harvest a usb connector from something else)
   

honestly a trailer brake controller makes sense seeing as this truck was obviously used for a lot of hauling...thanks people.

edit: imagine that....I google "Engage trailer brake controller" and that's all the image results.
https://www.amazon.com/Hayes-81760-Engage-Digital-Controller/dp/B004PGCN3C

Ohhh, the Darlington arrays look awesome. These are the Led's I'm trying to drive: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GKOQVZC/

Sorry, I should have clarified. I am referring to electric trailer brakes, controlled by a brake controller installed in the tow vehicle.

Example

The actual brake itself is a electric drum brake operated by an electromagnet, but I was more curious how the brake controller changes the amount of braking. If it is done via changing the voltage applied to the magnet, could this be replicated in a homemade controller?

It's wiring for a trailer brake controller, those two self-tappers above it were holding the bracket for the controller. Pretty common to see in pickups, nothing to be concerned about.

Example of a controller:
http://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-74642-Brakeman-Compact/dp/B0016KA9PY/ref=zg_bs_tab_pd_mg_1

If it has a hitch it's not unlikely that the harness exists for the trailer brake. Look online. This trailer brake is inexpensive and really easy to use.

Tekonsha 90160 Primus IQ Electronic Brake Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P11SCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_01fuzbSK78AQ6

I ordered these from amazon for $3.33 US free shipping. Downside is it's taking several weeks to get here (I'm assuming it's on a slow boat from China).

I just put in a Tekonsha P3 and really like it. Mounted under the steering wheel by the center vent. Longest part of the install was running the wires to the trailer connection.

https://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-90195-Electronic-Brake-Control/dp/B000P17NXQ

Yes, stock hitch. Only added a brake controller (REESE Towpower 8507111 Brakeman IV Digital Brake Control, Small Compact Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017NAH5WK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ch7gDb5N9N50X) and cable.

Parts list with links to the items I bought from Amazon

1x - Proline 12ft 7-Way Trailer Plug Cord with 7-Pole Wiring Junction Box Weatherproof and Corrosion Resistant

1x - NSi Industries TORK C530M In-Wall Spring Wound 30-Minute Commercial Grade Mechanical Interval Timer Switch

3x - ALITOVE 16.4ft 5050 SMD Black PCB Cool White LED Flexible Strip Ribbon Light 5M 300 LEDs Waterproof IP65 DC 12V for Home Garden Commercial Area Lighting

25ft of Red 14awg wire from Lowe's

25ft of Black 14awg wire from Lowe's

One spare switch box that was lying around

Various amount of Zip Ties

6 Tap connectors for 14awg-18awg wires

Also used a soldering iron to connect the LEDs to the 14awg wire before using tap connectors

Sure, it can be done, but will require hacking into the wiring on the Explorer.

Also this cable may work...

Or this...

Here you go you can use the Amazon link or use the second link to go to the Reese site and use where to buy to look for a local store.

https://www.amazon.com/Tow-Ready-20223-Trailer-Harness/dp/B001GKBE3K


http://www.reeseprod.com/products/electrical-wiring/6-7-way-connectors/7-way-connector-car-end/!FQHI|fPlggHGfTcl5GFqPRqFGQKA9uN

I've seen some people use those traction pad things to get traction as well - not sure how effective they are or whether it's a situational kind of thing.

Why not put a wheel on the bottom of the jack?

[Motor with fan] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N26LGZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518053380&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=12v+motor+propeller&dpPl=1&dpID=41a-2U-jzBL&ref=plSrch)

[5V voltage regulator] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0094DXENY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518053519&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=female+usb+port&dpPl=1&dpID=517OGtdvdfL&ref=plSrch)

[Female USB port] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0094DXENY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518053519&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=female+usb+port&dpPl=1&dpID=517OGtdvdfL&ref=plSrch)