Reddit mentions: The best trim router bits

We found 32 Reddit comments discussing the best trim router bits. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 21 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

4. SKIL 91030 Carbide Router Bit Set, 30-Piece

30-piece carbide router bit setVariety of popular cutting profilesSolid wood felt lined case
SKIL 91030 Carbide Router Bit Set, 30-Piece
Specs:
ColorMulti
Height2.25 Inches
Length16 Inches
Number of items1
SizeOne Size
Weight3 Pounds
Width8.75 Inches
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20. 5/8" (Dia.) Top Bearing Flush Trim Bit

    Features:
  • TOP BEARING FLUSH
  • TOP BEARING FLUSH
  • TOP BEARING FLUSH
  • TOP BEARING FLUSH
  • TOP BEARING FLUSH
5/8" (Dia.) Top Bearing Flush Trim Bit
Specs:
ColorRed
Height1 Inches
Length1 Inches
Number of items1
SizeOne Size
Weight0.09 Pounds
Width1 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on trim router bits

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where trim router bits are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 8
Number of comments: 4
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Top Reddit comments about Trim Router Bits:

u/KidA001 · 2 pointsr/TeardropTrailers

Gladly. I bought 1"x4"x8' clear-heart redwood boards. I also borrowed a router and router bench and bought a [tongue and groove set] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZM2AIS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and ran all of my boards through the router. You can definitely buy wood already tongue and grooved which is a lot easier, but I was really specific about the wood I wanted to use so I had to do it myself. If you're going to do it yourself and haven't done it before, definitely test it out on some throwaway wood to practice before you start cutting into your stock.

Once they were all t&g'd I started mounting them against the plywood walls and they just stack on top of each other. I cleaned off all the wood sticking out past the walls with a router template bit. I used Lexel to seal the edges between the redwood siding and the plywood, then cut some 1/8" plywood as trim to cover the gap, you can see me clamping the trim on here. I also had to cut out my doors/windows, etc.

For the outer roof and hatch, I used 1/8in Marine grade plywood. It's super durable, and bent easily over the frame. For the inner roof I used 1/8in maple plywood, and in-between both those layers I filled it with insulation. You can kinda see the process here.

I finished the siding and redwood with Waterlox Sealer & Finish. It's a tung oil sealer, and the finish is marine spar varnish that protects against water, UV...etc. The best part is if it ever needs a new coat you don't need to sand, you just add on a new layer and it kinda 'burns' in.

As for cost....I'm not sure, I stopped keeping track :P - Redwood can get expensive, but I really liked it so I splurged. You can get just as beautiful a finish with pine, which is much easier to find already tongue and grooved. Pine is great as long as you seal it.

Here's some photos of the process and the finish. Please let me know what other questions you have!

u/Hapuman · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Yes, that's what that description means. I wouldn't get that router bit though. What you want is a top-bearing pattern bit. [Something like this, though it doesn't have to be this exact one.] (http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Top-Bearing-Flush-Trim/dp/B0000225XQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457217370&sr=8-1&keywords=router+pattern+bit+top+bearing) As far a brands, I like Whiteside, Amana, or Freud. It's fine to go with something cheaper, you'll just get less life out of the cutters.

You need to make yourself a template the exact size of your mortise and plunge in with the router. The template will look roughly like this. The cleat on the bottom of the template in that image is not strictly necessary; it's fine to just clamp your template to your work piece. Any scrap piece of plywood is fine for a template. MDF works well too, but is softer, so I wouldn't recommend it if you want to use this template a whole bunch of times. It can also be a good idea to make two templates - that way if you mess up and run your router into the edge (which can be pretty easy to do), you have a back up.

I've been trying to find a video of someone doing this, but all i'm seeing are people doing things that are way over-complicated. If you're interested in proceeding like this and you want more help feel free to message me with questions. Good luck!

u/djjoshuad · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I actually started out with a bit set from Skil, that I got on clearance at Lowes. I think I paid about $80 and it had 30 different bits in a nice little wood and glass case. they aren't super high quality and can't do everything, but it allowed me to learn and make quite a few really cool things without breaking the bank. These aren't my "forever" bits, but the cost savings was huge and I still use quite a few of them. as I find things I can't do with that set, or one gets too dull to continue using I just buy a quality one.

I know that goes against the normal advice in this sub, but it worked very well for me so I have to recommend giving it a try.

edit: a quick search on amazon yielded this, which is the same set I have. none of the bits have broken though many did dull rather quickly. I have a drawer full of higher quality bits now, but each one of them costs about a third to half of what this set did. The set was a better value for a beginner, IMO.

u/randomized_botanist · 1 pointr/woodworking

If you get a good spiral bit like this or a smaller spiral bit it will probably help, but you still might get tear-out. A two-bearing (top and bottom bearings) bit like ElPolloRico suggested would help as well. I would avoid the big CMT bit on Amazon, though, because I've had a hard time limiting tear out, regardless of feed or grain direction.

u/livebrains · 3 pointsr/Luthier

I'd start with one of these, one of these, and add on this one.

That should have you pretty well covered for about $40.

I also heard good things about Infinity router bits, but i haven't been able to bring myself to spend the money on them. They have a slight downcut angle to the cutting edge instead of being totally straight, so they cut cleaner and easier from having a shearing effect going on instead of just brute cutting force.

u/pneuman · 4 pointsr/DIY

I was curious, so looked up some prices.

$24 - Jigsaw

$70 - Router (fixed base)

$5 - Flush trim bit

$15 - chamfer bit

$40 - Circular saw

$30 - Drill

$61 - Shop-vac


$40 - electric hand planer

$285 for major tools used, brand new. Chuck in another $25 or so for tax, and that's $310. Didn't include table saw, because really it's unnecessary for this particular project. Didn't include router table for same reason. Let's add another $90 and make it an even $400 to include miscellaneous tools that may be needed. That's honestly not bad starting from absolutely nothing.

u/DStoo · 1 pointr/woodworking

Would something like this be good to add to my toolbox?

I already have a set of Freud straight bits (Point #2). But I didn't think about needing to do templates or trim. That looks like it will do both.

u/howmanydads · 1 pointr/woodworking

I regularly use this set at work and have the higher-HP version (MRC23) for my home shop. It's a great starter set, and if you build the fixed base into a table, it becomes incredibly versatile (the recent versions let you adjust bit depth from above the table with an allen key).

Also great recommendation with MLCS bits. Most of what I buy for home use is from them (though I swear by the big Bosch top-bearing bits for cutting from templates).

u/abnormal_human · 1 pointr/woodworking

It's unlikely that you're going to get that clean look without buying a router bit.

This one should be great and is under $30.

u/caddis789 · 1 pointr/DIY

It's difficult to route out a shape freehand, and keep nice, straight lines. You can either stay inside the lines, and clean it up with a chisel, or make a template and use a pattern bit. With a bit like this, you make the template the exact size of the cut you want to make.

u/RECOGNI7E · 2 pointsr/DIY

No you stick the laminant to the wood first then cut it to size and cut out the sink.

You will need a flush cut bit This allows you to cut the counter a little oversized, stick it to the wood then trim with the router bit.

I just did my first counter like this and it turned out great. I put oak trim on the side with a half inch round edge.

Here is the counter I did last year in my tiny house

And another

It has held up very well and I really like the look. Both countertops and with the wood, glue and the bit was about $120 CDN. Cheaper and way nicer than you can buy IMO.

If you need more detailed steps just let me know.

u/nosmokingbandit · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Kind of hard to tell, but is it a cove and bead? Looks like the bead is on top, so the opposite of how this is shown.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-85605M-Carbide-Tipped-Cove/dp/B000GY9V00

u/McFeely_Smackup · 2 pointsr/DIY

If I were doing it, I'd make a pattern from a 1/4 piece of MDF by:

  1. using an adjustable circle cutting bit , cut hole in pattern stock
  2. use a 'pattern bit' in a router, it has a ball bearing that follows the pattern exactly.

    it involves some specialty tools, but they are inexpensive and it provides a way to make a perfectly routed circle of very precise dimensions.

    here's a video that shows how pattern cutting works with a router
u/MDDDIY · 3 pointsr/woodworking

The challenge for buying something for someone that likes woodworking is that you don't know what kind of tools they want/need. Not to mention tools tend to be quite a bit more expensive than the price point you mentioned.

You could consider purchasing them something that will come in handy, if not immediately so. Router bits, saw blades, drill bits, or wood project packs are all something that would see mileage.

Here's a couple ideas from browsing Amazon.

Rosewood Cutting Guage

[Crown Marking Knife] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V9KOTQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1XH9ERR8QY3ND&coliid=ILFECPNG7H6C1)

[Router Radi Guide] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040BNLRO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1XH9ERR8QY3ND&coliid=I1EHDP8Y8SGNEO)

[A Flush Trim Bit for Patterns] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000225XQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1XH9ERR8QY3ND&coliid=I1TEA98C23FQ2D&psc=1)


Edit: I should point out that not everyone may agree with this list. This is just stuff that, in my experience, is either a Quality of Life type item or something that people have to buy as bits tend to wear out, etc.

u/Dimsdale53 · 4 pointsr/woodworking

Don't use a straight cut trim bit. It will climb the grain and do that. Get a spiral cut bit, and it will make a world of difference. I personally recommend Whiteside. Try this, it's expensive but worth every penny: https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-RFT5125-Diameter/dp/B0012JF0DA/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549612333&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=whiteside+1%2F2+inch+spiral+upcut+trim+bit&psc=1&smid=A37PM3LLALXATG

u/chillagevillage · 1 pointr/woodworking

You could use a flush trim bit with a bottom bearing, like this one.

u/LXIV · 1 pointr/woodworking

Once you have the shoulders cut, you can clean up the bottom of a dado with your router

u/djfl00d · 1 pointr/DIY

Probably a Dremel with a core box router bit?

u/bulletproof_tiger · 1 pointr/DIY

I ordered these straight bits lastnight as they were cheap and the reviews are decent. At $20 I'm not going to be too upset if they end up being garbage, but at least I'll have something to practice on and get familiar with the router. I have this bit in my cart for order later today- this is the bit I'll actually need for the project I posted about. Is this one decent for the price? Mind you, as of now I won't be using these a bunch so I don't think I really need contractor quality bits that would see daily wear as it's not really in the budget currently.

http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Top-Bearing-Flush-Trim/dp/B0000225XQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

u/JavaMoose · 32 pointsr/DIY

Take a piece of MDF, cut a circle in it with a hole-saw or a jig-saw. Use this type of bit in the router. The bearing follows your template.

u/noneo · 1 pointr/woodworking

I'm struggling with setting up a jib for cutting dados with a router.

I'm using 3/4" ply and want to cut a 3/8" deep dado. I followed this guide and bought this router bit, but it seems way too deep. What bit should I buy to make this work?

u/georgetd · 4 pointsr/Luthier

For this project, the template isn't required. You can use the existing sides of the neck pocket as the 'template', but you need to get a rather short bit. You will still need a plane for the router to sit on (usually the template does that). That means you'll still cut a template, but it doesn't need to be exact, make the part you cut out a little bigger than the existing neck pocket.

The bit you need is something like this, you can usually find them at the local hardware store. Distance from the bottom of the cutting edge to the bottom of the bearing should be less than the depth of the pocket.

Do not try and sand the neck pocket down. It will not be level when you're done with it.