(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best tripod heads

/u/zacharius55 - there are other affordable options besides DSLRs and phones - neither of which is purpose-built for filmmaking. Yes, people hang all sorts of accessories on them and make great movies - but you'd probably be better off with a relatively inexpensive, purpose-built cinema camera.

Instead of a compromise still/video camera or a phone, I recommend the [$945.25 1080/60p RAW Blackmagic Micro Cinema Camera] (https://www.amazon.com/Blackmagic-Design-Cinema-Camera-Dynamic/dp/B00WNFK0P0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?m=A2SYTEIF5THBXJ&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1485952262&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

You'll also need a [$169 5" Lilliput 569 O/P monitor] (https://www.amazon.com/Lilliput-569-Field-Monitor-YPbPr/dp/B00CDKY560//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), plus a [$6.99 cold shoe adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/FOTYRIG-Adapter-Bracket-Monitor-Microphone/dp/B01JP1XYWU//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) and a [$4.08 cold shoe swivel head mount] (https://www.amazon.com/Andoer-Aluminium-Alloy-Camera-Monitor/dp/B00ZUEUVT6//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) for the monitor.

As far as lenses go, a [$229.99 Meike 12mm f/2.8] (https://www.amazon.com/Meike-Removeable-Panasonic-Olympus-Mirrorless/dp/B01KV0I7XU//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Links] would be a nice, wide affordable prime to get you started.

Both the camera and the Lilliput monitor are powered by the same Canon LP-E6 batteries.

With 13 stops of dynamic range and its ability to record RAW internally, the BMMCC will give you the latitude, color palette and gradability of a much more expensive camera.

Here are a few examples of the image quality it can produce:

Narrative/Experimental

• [Au lac by Thomas Fontaine] (https://vimeo.com/189062822)
  
  
• [GENE Teaser by Giant Leap Productions] (https://vimeo.com/groups/pocketcamera/videos/179117336)
  
  
• [Micro by Noam Kroll] (https://vimeo.com/152176332)
  
  
• [hardcover by Tristan Albers] (https://vimeo.com/195985697)
  
  
• [Love Story - Blackmagic Micro Cinema Camera by JSFILMZ] (https://vimeo.com/175951426)
  
  
• [One Night in Concord by Michael Sessions] (https://vimeo.com/groups/pocketcamera/videos/180387129)
  
  Commercials/Promos
  
  
• [ACCIDENTAL LOVE // PERŁA SPOT by Tomasz Dobski] (https://vimeo.com/180172474)
  
  
• [The Gathering Karak Pancake Ad by Chema García (Mumford)] (https://vimeo.com/165262005) (shot with the BMMCC and the BMPCC)
  
  
• [I Love Rolki ŁÓDŹ by Kuba Sobański] (https://vimeo.com/groups/pocketcamera/videos/182920186)
  
  
• [Carmen Steffens Beachwear 2017 by Michelangelo BernardoniPLUS] (https://vimeo.com/groups/pocketcamera/videos/170094455)
  
  
• [NORTH DISTRICT 51.5440 N -0.1027 W by Nicolas Heitz] (https://vimeo.com/175809242)
  
  Docs
  
  
• [Behind The Scenes - “A Pirate’s Tale” by Noam Kroll] (https://vimeo.com/163465118) (BTS shot with the BMMCC, scenes from the film shot with the URSA Mini 4.6K)
  
  
• [Tim by Rove Media] (https://vimeo.com/187855177)
  
  
• [Training Day - Blackmagic Micro Cinema Camera by Simon Shasha] (https://vimeo.com/155747487)
  
  Travel and Lifestyle
  
  
• [Horse riding and Triathlon - BMMCC RAW by Bochibochi Ongaku] (https://vimeo.com/167591949)
  
  
• [Blackmagic Design | Micro Cinema Camera Test Footage by Nicholas Swartzendruber] (https://vimeo.com/153979017) (this is a great aerial camera)
  
  
• [VLV19 BMMCC IG Reel by steve prue] (https://vimeo.com/163897156) (NSFW)
  
  There isn't a DSLR on the market with better dynamic range (or more robust codecs) below $2,000 from Canon, Nikon, Panasonic or Sony.
  
  If you do end up buying the BMMCC, you might want to subscribe over at /r/bmpcc - there are lots of knowledgeable folks there who can help you get the most out of your new camera.
  
  Hope this is helpful and good luck with your transition from writing to direction!

Trying to build a simple, large overhead rig for work for under $300 to do creative, top-down shots. We have a Canon EOS 7D and a 28-135mm lens that we will probably replace because it has an issue with the zoom sliding down at anything more than a 30 degree tilt.

I think I've come up with a pretty bare bones rig that will work. But since I usually just shoot by hand or tripod and don't have much experience with studio equipment, I was hoping someone could check to make sure this would work.

• Ravelli ABSL Backdrop Stand Kit (13' x 15')
  
• Manfrotto 035RL Super Clamp
  
• Manfrotto 494RC2 Ball Head w/ Quick Release
  
• AmazonBasics Wireless Remote
  
  Was hoping if someone could tell me if this seems okay. Could anyone recommend an affordable lens that would be good for shooting from about 8' - 10'? Furthermore, is there a somewhat inexpensive method for routing shots to a Macbook for review while shooting?
  
  EDIT: It looks like the best way to route shots is a 15' USB cable and to route into a software, so that should be pretty straightforward.

I have zero interests or gains from people buying any of the products I share, I have no affiliation with these companies, these are all my personal recommendations (prices are in USD)

• This is the cheap tripod I'm using $80
  
• This is the L bracket that I use $50
  
• This is the nodal rail I use for panoramas $30
  
• This is the leveling head I use on the tripod $45
  
  
  This entire setup, which is good for single-row panoramas, will cost you $205, and if you don't care for panoramas then it will be $130. (without the nodal rail and leveling plate)
  Professional tripods that have the same load capacity as this one I suggested usually start at $500 and easily go up to $1000, not even including a ball head.
  Dedicated L brackets go for $100-$200, depending on the camera.
  Professional grade leveling heads designed for the same load capacity as the one I suggested start at $200.
  Professional grade nodal rails also start at $150.
  
  While you will definitely enjoy professional-grade gear better, I very much enjoyed this very cheap setup. I've been using it for more than a year now, and I had ZERO problems whatsoever. I take this setup with me everywhere, in the rain, dust, mud, you name it. For how cheap those products I suggested are, they are very well made.
  What can go on this cheap setup?
  A D700 with 200-400 F4 lens (it's pretty heavy!).

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Title | G85 vs A6500 - Best option for film making? Max Talks EP#4
Description | Which camera is the right fit for you? Filmmaking, Vlogging, and Videography G85 Amazon➡ http://geni.us/jEyA76A A6500 Amazon➡ http://geni.us/bffB4nA If you enjoy our content please consider supporting us on Patreon. Even $2 a month helps us make more and better content for you! https://www.patreon.com/MaxYuryev -------------------------------------------------------------------- This Review was Shot using: Camera on Amazon➡ http://geni.us/bffB4nA Lens on Amazon➡ http://geni.us/dmcMpa Mic on...
Length | 0:10:14


SECTION | CONTENT

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Title | Panasonic G85 OWNS the Sony a6500 in almost every way...except one
Description | This is just a quick update after shooting my first ever video on the Sony a6500 since deciding to try and switch to it from my Panasonic G85/G7/GH4. I'll just keep walking you guys through what I'm learning as it happens if that's cool with you! New Sony camera & lens: http://amzn.to/2owhmEU Must-have other lens for new camera: http://amzn.to/2pJlBiv Mic I use on my vlogging rig: http://amzn.to/2oQcvBU My bendy-tripod: http://amzn.to/2pkAJ8R Old main Panasonic camera: http://amzn.to/2pJl5AU F...
Length | 0:07:41






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Ask your grandma for an exta $70 and buy this tripod. The value is incredible and it will last you years. I'd suggest upgrading the fluid head down the line (the one it comes with is OK but a good fluid head is EVERYTHING). This one is the one I use with it (as well as 90% of other videographers haha) and I am very happy with it.

I don't really like that ballhead you shared, I'd consider trying to get a second fluid head down the line such as this one. What I do is put my plate on my slider and mount it on my tripod's fluid head. Then I mount the smaller fluid head on the tripod. Lastly, the camera goes on the small fluid head and I'm ready to go.

You could also just mount the slider directly to the sticks but it might just be easier to leave a fluid head.

As you've found, good tripods and heads, as with most good products, can be are pricey. For what you're after you'd probably be better off buying a cheaper set of tripod legs, and a fairly solid head.

As an alternative and possibly cheaper option, one of these might help with positioning the box so the center of gravity is directly over the head. You would need an Arca Swiss compatible tripod head to use one though.

Some head options: Neweer Ballhead (cheapest not-complete-junk option), TLT AirHead Neo (one of the better options for the price), Sirui K10X (the best light-duty ballhead bar none).

Some tripod options: Sirui N-1004KX (possibly the best legs for the cost on the lower-cost scale of things), this.. thing (and possibly ditch the head, likely to be crap), Slik Sprint 150 (again, ditch the crap head), Slik Pro 340DX (not very tall though).

>partial phases, before totality: shoot intermittently with
>camera set to C1, with a solar filter on the lens.

For long lenses where you're just shooting the Sun and not the surrounding environment:

For a given solar filter, there is one correct exposure that's good for the entire partial phase. Practice with your filter NOW and find out what that is. If you're lucky, you might see some sunspots. You can find out current activity here. It doesn't matter how much of the Sun is covered, that exposure will not change. If your camera has a spot meter function, that might give you the correct exposure.

>totality: switch to C2, remove filter, press and hold the
>shutter release to shoot bracketed exposures

Bracket like mad. There is no "correct" exposure for totality, but if you cruise around the "how to photograph eclipses" pages, you can find suggestions of where to start. Been too long since I shot one, don't recall where I started.

>I have an ioptron skytracker

You won't be able to align the iOptron, except by tedious trial and error, because you won't be able to see Polaris. And yeah, a 600mm is putting a pretty good strain on that. I would skip that part.

In the past, I have used a geared tripod head to make tracking the Sun easier. But now with the big 600mm, that's not an option. I use a big-ass Wemberly gimbal mount.

You could make an attempt at a crude polar alignment that would reduce the amount of fiddling you need to do to track the Sun. Mount the camera perfectly level facing true north, then lower the rear tripod leg so the tripod is tilted backwards the same number of degrees as the local latitude. If you managed to do that perfectly, then you would only ever have to move the camera in one axis to follow the Sun, something the geared head will do nicely. You probably won't do it perfectly, but it will still reduce the amount of 2-axis correction you'd need to do. You can practice that right now, too.

Hi Flashphotoe, I usually set up my tracker like this to prevent what I think you're calling "leaning back." Such a setup isn't possible to do on an altazimuth head, however - you need a 3-axis alt-az-tilt mount like this one. I find that a good 3-way tripod head is enough stability except in more substantial winds.

Glad you're enjoying the barn door, and I hope this helps!!

I have kind of a weird situation. I've been shooting digital as well as 35mm and medium format for several years, and for most of that I've gotten used to ballheads.

However, I'm now starting to shoot 4x5 using an Intrepid, and my ballhead is not a good match for shooting large format.

For those of you who don't know, the Intrepid 4x5 weighs only about 2 pounds (maybe 5 or so with a lens on it), so it does just fine on my compact travel tripod. The legs are fine, but the ballhead just doesn't give me the kind of precision that I really want for this shooting style.

So what I'm looking for is a small, lightweight geared head if possible. Manfrotto has this offering:

https://www.amazon.com/MANFROTTO-MHXPRO-3WG-GEARED-QUICK-RELEASE/dp/B00URXUC9O/

But the reviews indicate that the head is plasticky and not very precise. I'll probably try one out in person at my camera store and make my own judgments before I write that one off, but in the mean time I'd like to get suggestions, since I can't seem to find geared heads made by other manufacturers at all.

If there are no good lightweight geared heads (I realize that sounds like an oxymoron), I would like to get a solid 2- or 3-way pan with a handle. The Intrepid has a rotating back, so I really don't need more than 2 axis functionality. I just want the head to be solidly built and lightweight, and a quick release system is a must.

No real brand preference. Vanguard, Manfrotto, Feisol, whatever. Anyone have a pan head that they absolutely love? Price range is up to around $150.

I used a manfrotto befree with an andoer ball head. The tripod can be just a little shaky, but it worked of course. It’s purpose is to be mobile and light after all. This was my first time using the ball head and I really really enjoyed it compared to the ballhead on the tripod linked below.

I believe pretty much any highly rated budget tripod would do just fine. I also have this Slik tripod setup and although it feels a little cheaper, I believe it would’ve been fine for this photo. It also helps greatly to just not extend these tripods fully.

After looking through some pics of the past couple weeks I figured I had a decent collection of tripod usages. It has been one of the best tool additions to aid in my LR shenanigans since the RCBS Chargemaster. Its a Manfrotto 190XB, Manfrotto XPRO ball head, Really Right Stuff MLOK Adapter and the RRS Desert Tech Adapter.

Shooting the .338 on the tripod tames the recoil a bit better than just the bipod, allowing me to spot my shots. I had just finished shooting to 2000y and was packing up when I took the picture.

With the AR, it allowed an easy pivot point since I had targets in a 180 degree arc in front of me while also virtually eliminating recoil.

I was hunting rabbits with the 10/22 off a 50ft cliff, I would pick up and move often to spook them so I just picked the entire setup up and then dropped it when I saw one run out. Really made for a nice easy hunt.

Next step is upgrading to RRS tripod/head

I made this guide because the selection for bags that actually fit the HTC Vive well are either poorly constructed, overpriced, or both. The only case actually intended for the Vive I could find was this overpriced monstrocity, and this, even more overpriced, even larger monstrocity. So I did some digging, tried out a few things, and made this guide.

Links to everything in this guide:

• AmazonBasics Backpack for SLR/DSLR Cameras and Accessories: $27
  
• Tenba 636-243 Tool Box 8: $38
  
• Case Logic TBC-409 DSLR Shoulder Bag: $23
  
• Giottos MH1304-110C Professional Mini Ball Head
  : $22
  
• Drop ceiling 1/4"-20 clamps: $3.50 (Note: Amazon is currently out of stock in black, but other colors are available.)
  
  Another accessory I didn't include in the guide because it isn't Vive-specific was this Case Logic case for $15. It's intended for Go Pro cameras, but I found that it fits a Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum gaming mouse and a wireless XBox 360 controller perfectly, with room for a spare USB cable and a couple of thumb drives. I keep this second Case Logic case next to the other Case Logic bag in the guide, inside my Everki Titan backpack, which helps to provide a little extra padding for those exposed Vive controllers.

1. Go to Home Depot and buy 2 x 2-inch spring clamps, 2 x 1/4"-20x1/2" screws, and 2 x 1/4"-20 nuts. Your total cost for all of this should be under $5.
   
2. Order 2 x Giottos MH1304 mini ball head. These are around $20 each.
   
3. Unscrew the Oculus sensors from the stand base. The separation point is roughly 1 inch below the sensor.
   
4. Screw each 1/2"-20 nut onto each screw. The nuts act as spacers.
   
5. Pass the remaining bit of the screw through the little hole on the clamp, near the clamp tips.
   
6. Screw the mini ball head onto the screw. Make sure the ball head is tightened down so it doesn't just spin forever.
   
7. Screw the Oculus sensor onto the mini ball head.
   
   You now have an awesome clamp mount that will allow you to mount your sensors to any shelf or desk surface that's less than 2" thick, super-fast and easy. Side note: this clamp mount works for anything else that accepts a 1/4" screw as well, including small cameras, flashes (with the appropriate hot shoe), webcams, microphones (1/2" to 5/8" adapter may be necessary), etc.
   
   In terms of where to mount, Oculus prefers that the first two sensors you set up are within 6 feet of each other, on one side of the room. However, you do not need to do this. I often just mount mine on opposite corners of the room (the same way an HTC Vive is set up) for better roomscale experiences. Note that you'll need a USB 3.0 extension cable to do this. I've had good luck with this 5m one for $15. The Oculus software will complain that they're too far apart but you can still hit the Next button and everything will be fine. I recommend mounting them 2-3 feet above head level, pointing down at roughly a 30-45 degree angle so that they cover the entire area. Make sure the play area you intend to use is visible to the sensors even while kneeling/lying on the floor. If they're not, move/re-aim them.
   
   All of that said, if you can drop an extra $60 for a third sensor, I'd recommend ordering this one which is bundled with a 5m USB 2.0 cable. Note that USB 2.0 is fine for the 3rd sensor but not for the first 2 because tracking gets impacted, if it even lets you get past room setup. If you do end up getting a third sensor, mount it somewhere in the room opposite the other two so that you have a sort of triangle. This should give you best-case scenario roomscale tracking. Note that you'll need to get a third clamp, screw, nut, and mini ball head for your third sensor unless you just want to set it on one of your shelves.
   
   As a side note, there are many mini ball heads on Amazon that are cheaper (by up to half) than the ones I linked. I'm a photographer so I had these lying around. However, I've used cheaper ones and they suck. If you can afford them, get the Giottos.

My mobile solution was a little more expensive: light stands with carrying bag, ball mounts, and sand weights - a bit more expensive, but very stable. (Sand or rock needed to fill bags, price not included but only a couple of bucks. I put my sand in double 1 gallon bags in each of the 3 sides of each base sand holder.)

For my mobile rig, I already owned an older Alienware 17 R3 and added a graphics amplifier with a Titan X. Works pretty good as a mobile VR rig. Fairly solid VR rig.

I really like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ASJFPA/

Manfrotto, strong, good handle. Works for light things like GoPro or heavy things like a point and shoot.

You should be able to unscrew the Sunpak pistol grip, and screw on another head.

> any cheaper options are greatly appreciated

The cheapest arca-swiss compatible head I know is the Ballhead X from Gorillapod. Fifty bucks US. It's small, light, and pretty darn good for the price IMHO.

https://www.amazon.com/GorillaPod-Ballhead-Release-Tripods-Cameras/dp/B0038YWLCU

That Amazon link will suggest some even cheaper ones, I haven't tried them.

not all of them, but the one that I got does not come with a ball head.
here's a link to the Sirui It's really solid, pretty small, and relatively light weight. I have a large carbon fiber Vanguard tripod for when I want to take a large one. Rarely do though as I shoot Adventure Lifestyle Photography.. The ball head that I use is a Manfrotto XPro, but I only recommend it if you're using a DSLR. For mirrorless it's a bit overkill

I have a Benro S2 that came with my video monopod and I love it! Its smooth when doing both pans and tilts, has a solid metal build, and has a bubble level which is useful if I put it on a tripod. One thing I should mention though is that the hole on the bottom is 3/8in, not 1/4 like most tripods, so you'll need an adapter.

Benro head

Adapter

Putting a ten dollar extension tube on a 300 dollar lens on and off every day is good way to be shoppping for a new lens in six months. People say the air in between the camera and lens doesn't have a brand. That's true, but the electrical connectors do. If your electric contacts get overworn, then your lens might not focus, or expose correctly.

Another option is sell the 60 and get a used 100 mm, on a crop factor you'll be going from 90 to 150 ( effective focal length ) that'll help a lot more than extension tubes.

All that said I use a 25mm canon extension ring, and have had bad experiences with at least 3 different non canon brands

For focus stacking a 4 way thing like this

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50 ft (at a... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SJ7UWU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share.

And a huge block of time and patience in post

Andoer Q08 Pro Video Tripod Monopod Ball Head 3-way Fluid Head Rocker Arm with Quick Release Plate for Canon Nikon Sony DSLR Camera Benro Manfrotto Gizto and Velbon Tripod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P22ORAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_24EoDbMQRSBV2

Works pretty good

I have found something like this one on amazon (Manfrotto MVK500AQ), and a third party seller who says he's an authorized Monfrotto dealer is selling it for $319. [Here it is.] (https://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-MVK500AQ-Aluminum-Single-System/dp/B00M0B51D8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466448824&sr=8-1&keywords=Manfrotto+MVK500AQ)

I have a Sirui Ballhead , it's great:
Tripod ball head

i've heard great things about this: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Leveling-Cameras-Tripods-Monopods/dp/B00MVNBTDG

Do continue doing it! Its not often a find a tech based channel with decent editing skills.
The current video head I'm using at the moment is this one

I started my own tech channel earlier this week with a trailer uploaded. Feel free to check it out here

I use pretty much all the same software as you for editing, with the inclusion of Sony Vegas at times, but I really liked the template you used for the text. That is one of the main things that caught my eye in the video so I may have to steal that one in particular when I do my review of the OnePlus 3 mobile phone.

Siruis K20x

It got very good reviews in this German ballhead round up for example.

You may want a 3-axis head if you want a bit more fine control though, ballheads in general are just more versatile, quick and flexible. For ultimate control geared heads are the way to go, but even the more cheaper ones are above your budget.

It's one of these ball heads. I put one of the provided thread adapters in the bottom of it, then put an Arca style QD plate on the bottom of the ball head. The binos sit on their own QD Arca plate. The ball head plate goes into the clamp on the top of the Anvil, then the binos go into the clamp on top of the ball head. The ball head allows much smoother operation with the binos, gives me a dedicated panning function, and brings the binos up to the height of my eyeballs so I don't have to semi-squat down to get behind them.

​

If I need to shoot off the tripod, I open the Anvil clamp, pop the ball head out, and put the rifle (with RRS spec dovetail on the handguard) into the Anvil clamp.

Maybe look into a Fluid tripod head. Even a fairly basic one should have adjustable friction so you can tune it to your liking.

For example: http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-Fluidity-Selector-Replacement-Release/dp/B00SLUQCKS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458330492&sr=8-2&keywords=Fluid+tripod+head

This video may give you an idea: https://youtu.be/oFTPxQMdmho

If you already have a good 50mm lens, I would suggest this combo to get started:

Decent set of extension tubes

Ring Flash

Optional:

Tripod Macro Focusing Rail

Autofocus systems can struggle doing macro with extension tubes so I would suggest manual focusing. Also, try and run a fairly small aperture (f/8 to f/16).

If you add 1 of these between the camera and the existing mount, I think it should solve the angle issue: https://www.amazon.com/AKOAK-Swivel-Tripod-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B01CQAQOSI/

Anything 1/4-20 will mount to the top so you can add your own. inexpensive example

1/4" to 1/4" swivel adapter

https://www.amazon.com/AKOAK-Swivel-Tripod-Camcorder-Bracket/dp/B01CQAQOSI/

I use this to get my negatives in focus. I get the camera in the general area with my tripod column then use this to fine tune the focus without adjusting the lens.

I guess a new baseplate will probably solve the problem, but if your tripod isn't Arca Swiss compatible, that's a problem. You can just replace the head in that case.