(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best twist drill bits

yeah i was really lucky to pick up two of those antennas from amazon warehouse for about $35 each and I am 60 miles out .. i point them at two different cities and have a strong amp.. I get VHF pretty good with them .. only 1-3 bars on my tv but its steady all day and night and only flakes once in a long time.

but I waited probably 6 months for those amazon warehouse deals .. I was in no hurry because i only needed to get 4 vhf stations .. the others i could get on my old antenna..

a drill bit like this makes real easy work out of it
this one is a bit expensive i got mine at biglots but idk if you can still get them

https://www.amazon.com/Speedbor-1866052-Irwin-Tools-Drilling/dp/B00LLGSN4C/

main idea is it is long .. and it has that screw tip on the end.. the screw tip if you get it into the 2x4 will pull the drill bit all the way through the wood and you aren't forcing it or pushing.. makes super easy work of it..

when i go through the floor i go into the drywall just above the baseboard molding and tare that area up a bit so the bit has plenty of room to move around then i target the center of the 2x4 and boom its real easy..

for the ceiling i get a nail and drive it through the drywall .. then i get a wire coat hanger and put it up the hole... then i go into the attic and look for the coat hanger and I can see where the top plate 2x4 is and I drill down through it.

its not really difficult but its laborious .. you are climbing up and down and this and that and dealing with insulation .. blah

but then again how often do you need to do it? heh

hardest part for me was trying to install 100 inch antennas in an attic with trusses and its real tight .. you got to plan well heh .. you install it in 3 pieces so you have to decide how can i fish the front in there and point it but then at the back how do i open the rods .. because they are folded ... i am sure my pointing is a bit off and i couldn't get every dipole rod fully open without bending them slightly ... its wedged in there pretty dam good...

and you are doing this while trying to not put a foot through your ceiling ... HA! .. oh its fun heh

I agree with the folks saying maybe go for a milling machine. You could get a little bench mill like the smaller Precision Matthews for not too much more, but tooling and everything will be another half to 3/4 of that budget for mills. Great if you want to get in to milling, though.

For nice new drill presses, Jet and Powermatic both offer solid machines, especially variable speed ones. Make sure you get yourself a good drill press vice and actually use it and clamp it down. And a set of really good metalworking drills, like these or a Norseman set or something. Those two things will make just about any drill press you wind up with more than capable.

An alternative to a bipod is a good sling. Properly adjusted it should it nicely over your shoulder when swung around it should up tightly in against your other elbow when you press your elbow down into your chest as you hold the rifle. This should pull the sling taught and provide you with a nice shooting platform. For me I tend to find it is a toss up between a 1907 or a generic cloth/leather one used on like the SKS or FR8.

In regards to cleaning, as SikhAndDestroy, a good bore snake comes in handy. I am fond of the one made by Otis with Hoppes solvent and oil. A nice set brushes can be handy. I suggest getting one in both nylon and brass.

As far as cleaning goes, as long as you are not shooting corrosive ammo, this in general is something that can wait every 500 to 1000 rounds easily for most firearms as long as you are not shooting something with terrible tolerances, such as some of the more expensive 1911. As far as AR goes, as long as they stay nicely lubed, cleaning can wait for them as well as reliability with them is a factor of being nicely oiled.

In regards to pick yourself up a got bit set such as this one. The big thing about choosing a bit set is not to get one that just generic angled flat heads. You need one that curve in your you will easily strip and slot screws.

Also wash your hands well post shooting.

Check out mine. We called it "Suicide" because it looked like you were shooting yourself in the face while you were tokin' up. Straight to the dome.

I would suggest just taking the drill bit route. Don't mess around with the torch because you will need a crazy amount of heat to melt a hole that won't come out as uniform as a drilled one. I used something that was very similar to this one. I've had a very high success rate with drilling glass bottles. I don't think I ever broke a piece (I did crack one though) and I've drilled probably 20 pieces. My suggestion is to do it in the sink with room temperature water running over the area that you are trying to drill. The water will keep it cool, lubricate the area a small amount, and keep glass dust from going into the air/your lungs. Try and stabilize the bit as best you can because movement will break your piece before anything else. If I remember correctly this piece was pretty easy to drill. Good luck! If you have any questions just ask.

You don't actually need a drill, there are hand drills on Amazon that hold a bit. Heck, you can even just carve out the hole with a bit in your hand, or just an exacto knife.

As others have implied, if you aren't skilled yet and don't have much money, this is actually the best time to learn how to magnetize.

If you need more recommendations on what exactly to do, and what tools to use, just ask. The community is here for you.

Edits for links to el cheapo drills which work awesome for magnetizing:

https://www.amazon.com/GPSGO-Precision-0-5-3-0mm-Electronic-Assembling/dp/B07PCNDFLV

The best option is these two items:

https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-SDP51DC-Cordless-Rechargeable-Screwdriver/dp/B075RWV5LB

https://www.amazon.com/COMOWARE-Titanium-Twist-Drill-Bit/dp/B07D9J6JLD

Note that for mini cordless drills you need bits with a 1/4" hex shank to fit into the chuck of those drills. I used a set up like those two items to magnetize 10 firewarriors and 10 pathfinders in the span of a out an hour. If I can do it, you can do it.

impact drivers aren't ideal for drilling but if you really want to go through with it you need a set of 1/4" hex shank drill bits like this

An alternative is getting a proper drill bit chuck that fits into you impact driver so that you can use any bits you want (give you the option to get bits specific to the material you're drilling)

But really the best thing to have is a real drill meant for drilling, especially the larger the hole you're trying to drill.

EDIT: the reason impacts aren't ideal for drilling is that by nature they're supposed to start banging away in small powerful knocks when they encounter resistance, and which allows a relatively small motor to drive deep screws or loosen tight bolts, but a drill bit cuts most efficiently when it just powers through and keeps spinning and slicing. If the bit stops and start chipping you're mangling the work and might get your bit jammed. Newer more expensive drills have some power management built in to adjust torque automatically depending on load to try and keep the bit spinning smoothly, which is even better, but even a cheap drill will be better at drilling holes than an impact drive.
That said, for what you're doing, the impact drive will do exactly what you want (for free). So have at it. But if you want to start drilling large holes in those joists, get a drill.

Legos! Tools are hard to buy, you get tools for a purpose and buy them through out your life. There are 3 types, woodworking, mechanical, and, metal working tools (body, sheet metal, machinists). A lot of tools cross over to other types. If he doesn't have vice grips, you can never have enough. I've got at least 18 drills. If he does maintenance, a dremel is always appreciated, with accessories. (it's a handheld rotary tool, it can cut grind drill and polish) (i have 5) They are on sale on amazon too. A soldering iron could be helpful too. I have that one, but never used it, I use my weller most of the time, it is super fast to heat up. They make a bigger one too. Accessories for the drill are good, it's useless unless you have things to put in it. I just got this bosch kit for my kid, I got him a drill for xmas, it's killer kit. It's expensive, I paid $14 for mine, I've been waiting for it to go on sale and gave up. BTW, amazon has 25 off 100 on bosch tools, they are expensive. That goes for most tools, but you get what you pay for, I have tools 50 years old still in service. I'm a master mechanic, all body areas, welder, and I build theatrical sets. I have a lot of tools!


This is the link to irwin tools, they make vice grip now. Vice grips are locking pliers, they clamp down vs regular pliers that will slip and ruin knuckles in a heart beat. Lowes has a sale on irwin stuff this week. The one hand clamp are great, I have 12 of them, and you get a free edge clamp.

Wiki entry on safe-cracking...

Best method: Drill, baby, drill. You will need a serious drill/bit but you might be able to rent one at a specialized hardware store/buy one with a money-back guarantee, etc and return it when done.

Seems to be what you really want to do is drill a small hole, and then use a endoscope/borescope to see if there's anything in there worth the trouble.

Once you find tons of money/gold/etc., feel free to then invest a little more money on a drill that can make the hole bigger.

If you have to get into it quickly, well...you aren't going to get into it quickly and not ruin the contents.

You'll need about twenty or thirty of these just to be safe.

And you'll want a drill like this...ten amps should be sufficient.

You'll want to keep switching the bits out every so often, even if they don't break, they'll dull quickly.

I have a tool bag for in the house. I keep all the usual items. I can take a picture of it for ya when I get home.

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https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DG5543-Inch-Tradesmans-Tool/dp/B001P30BO6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dewalt+tool+bag&qid=1563036747&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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Out in the garage the other post got it right with the Harbor Freight tool Chests. You can't go wrong with them. They will hold up and last you forever.

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You want to keep stuff off the floor so I would recommend these

https://www.samsclub.com/p/members-mark-4-shelf-industrial-storage-rack/prod22160218?xid=plp_product_1_3

they are 2 Feet deep so can hold a lot.

If you buy two you can actually fill up a whole wall.

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I like these as parts organizers in my garage, Milwaukee makes good ones also. You don't want to go cheap on these, it is a bad day when you go to carry it somewhere and the latch breaks and spills out 1000 screws

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https://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-DWST14825-10-Compartment-Organizer-Metal/dp/B00AUVX394/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3DS66NM6H7SBY&keywords=dewalt+storage+organizer&qid=1563037131&s=gateway&sprefix=dewalt+storage%2Caps%2C224&sr=8-4

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I use one like this in the house to hold small parts

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=sr_1_37?keywords=parts+organizer&qid=1563037496&s=gateway&sr=8-37

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Now for stuff I feel will change your life.

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If you do any electrical work, or for changing face plates. This screwdriver will change your life.

https://www.amazon.com/Interchangeable-Screwdriver-Klein-Tools-67100/dp/B003FC75YE/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=klien+screwdriver+fast&qid=1563037724&s=gateway&sr=8-7

I saw a electrician using it and I had to go buy one.

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I always have multiple sizes of these in the garage. They work great for hanging or fixing anything.

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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Deck-Mate-8-x-2-in-Star-Flat-Head-Wood-Deck-Screws-5-lbs-Pack-2DMT5/305418729

I just order Star bits instead of buying a bit set with a bunch a bits I don't use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XYS26HQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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If you have a sawzall and some trees you need to trim these will saw through a 4 inch branch like it is butter.

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC760R-9-Inch-Pruning-Reciprocating/dp/B005DYMRA4/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c__1/130-4777576-0899065?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005DYMRA4&pd_rd_r=b176538d-8b66-4ae2-ae89-92e5aef62a85&pd_rd_w=eLDwX&pd_rd_wg=Z1XlH&pf_rd_p=4b985ee3-c51c-45b0-b742-d73501cbd701&pf_rd_r=7T9YW21VA3QFF00GFKS4&psc=1&refRID=7T9YW21VA3QFF00GFKS4

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These are great stud finders. They find the drywall screws that go in to the studs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed 3 of these in my garage and the light output is amazing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078B7KG1R/ref=dp_cerb_1

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can't think of anything else right now.

Supplies:

11PCS Harry Potter Mini Magic Metal Wands Set for Kids Cosplay Magical Wand Stick Necklace Wands Toy Kit with Keychain
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGQ2ST3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VKElDbP5TPPSD

Pack of 12, 5/64-Inch Titanium Nitride Coated Drill Bit, High Speed Steel, Jobber Length, for Metal, Plastic, Wood https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CRMHZ46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yLElDbXWP2F5M

DRILLFORCE HSS General Purpose Heavy Duty Cobalt Jobber Length Twist Drill Bits Size 1/16 with 10pcs in Plastic Bag, ideal for drilling on mild steel, copper, Aluminum, Zinc alloy etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXY8QAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pMElDbJ7E9WYS

MEKO High Precision Replacement... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016X4QJWE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Step 1: use metal grinder to make a flat surface.


Step 2: use the 1/16” cobalt drill bit to start (this is just for accuracy) a hole in the center of the tip- follow it up with the 5/64” and drill to 1/4 to 1/2”. Depth can vary.


Step 3: insert metal plastic tips and if need be gently tap with a hammer. I use a little super glue for added hold but it seems like overkill.


There is some trial and error. So don’t worry if you make a mistake, you can grind it a little more and start over.

Good luck and happy hunting!



PS: If you want me to make them for you I will ship within the US only (sorry!) for flat rate of $7.50 regardless of how many you want.

I charge $25 for 1, $45 for 2 and $60 for 3.

Entire sets can be negotiated but that will take time as this is just a hobby for me. Take care!

You're awesome for taking the time to drill drainage holes in your thrifted planters. Hi-five!

I try to do the same thing (with mixed success). One thing that might help is a set of glass/tile drill bits. I got a set of similar bits for about twice that price at my hardware store, and they make it a lot easier to drill drainage holes into cups/pots/bowls without cracking them.

Hope that helps!

PS: What an adorable baby plant!!

Ok, this stuff doesn't glue together any better then normal mini plastics. You put any strain on the piece and it'll pop right off. So here's the trick. I do this for all minis (metal, plastic, printed, etc) because super glue isn't reliable with tiny surfaces. It broke easy when it was melted together, why will glue be any different?

Drill a hole in each end, and cut a piece of rod to fit in both holes. So the rod is the length of both holes added together. Then put that piece of rod in one hole and slide the other piece over the rod. If it fits well, glue them all together. The rod will hold the two bits together and strengthen the break point.

Tiny drills https://www.amazon.com/TG888-Micro-Twist-Pieces-Aluminum/dp/B07HXVBV9K/ref=asc_df_B07HXVBV9K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=344024281175&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4397548605641867076&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027286&hvtargid=pla-728156490650&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=69357499375&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=344024281175&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4397548605641867076&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027286&hvtargid=pla-728156490650

Thin metal Rods. Just find something narrow enough that'll fit. You'll use one pack of these for this for years.

https://www.amazon.com/Rod-32-12-Aluminum-Carded/dp/B00G6J6GDO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ks+metal+rod&qid=1562454542&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Might want to practice on a spare bolt, especially depending on how much experience you have drilling steel.

You'll want a very sharp tip, a lot a pressure, and as slow a speed as your drill will do because you don't want to work harden the steel by heating it up. For that reason pull out and pause a lot too, and again use plenty of cutting fluid, or at least WD40 or motor oil.

If you're making powder or not cutting at all you need more pressure and/or less speed. If you're getting ribbons of metal coming out that's correct. Cobalt might be better than HSS in case you end up work hardening it a bit, but carbide will probably snap from the pressure in a hand drill because it's more brittle. Definitely use a center punch so the bit doesn't dance at the beginning.

Can maybe use a piece of tubing or just a cut up pen tube or marker body to protect the thread, and a tape wrap on the drill bit can be used to control depth.

If you can get a reverse twist drill you might be able to prevent over tightening the bolt by drilling it, or even just turn it out if it jams.

This looks like a good set with matching extractors. There are cheaper ones, but with mixed reviews due to sharpness or not actually being cobalt.

https://www.amazon.com/Drill-Hog-Spiral-Extractor-Handed/dp/B07SSCNSHP/

That looks amazing. You did a great job. I love your fabric choice.

Also, if you think 1/16" drill bits are small, you should check out micro drill bits. One use for them is for drilling small holes on PCBs. These on Amazon are metric and go from 1.3mm down to 0.3mm. For reference, 1/16" is about 1.5mm.

I have a pack of costco bits right now. I assume they are TiN. They come with several of each size. So like 10 1/2 and like 40 1/16 and every size in-between. This is the closest thing I could find online. I am using a mechanics high speed air drill. Similar to this but branded as Cornwell.

I do have speciality bits, such as reverse irwins. Those are amazing. Just guess I should consider buying a set of quality instead of quantity.

I also just bought a drill press. I only had air and battery drills. I guess a good old drill press is finally needed.

The tag bases are 32mm exactly (4 studs). Not the OP but I used A 1 3/8ths" bit which comes out at 35mm. It gives a little slack but it's much easier to find than 32mm if you're in the U.S (I had it already a part of a set)

To drill the flat bottom holes you need a type of bit called a Forstner bit. You can use them with a handheld drill but a drill press will get you much better results.

Here's a 32mm bit on Amazon for $5.37 (add-on item shipping): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007G4MVKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MRmlzbB0EZ1CD'

Next day edit to add: You might not want to buy a 32mm bit as it'll give you a tight fit on the bases which won't make it easy to use. Amazon has a 33mm bit for $8-ish.
Here's the quick-and-dirty holder I made from a plywood scrap: http://imgur.com/yR4KEVy
Here's the space around the tag base with the 1-3/8" drill: http://imgur.com/CApTYF2

I find it pretty easy. Definately easier than perfboard for anything larger than a few components imho. Takes a little practise, mostly trial and error getting the iron temperature and timing right for the toner transfer. I find that the higher end of the wool setting, and about 90 seconds of pressure works well for me. Yes you need a laser printer if using the toner transfer technique, but there's more than one way to skin a cat. You also need some small drill bits. You can buy a kit from Amazon for cheap. I use a rotary tool because I don't have a drill press and hand drill is a bit heavy and I was breaking a lot of bits.

As for toxicity, it depends what you're using. Ferric chloride is most common (it's hydrochloric acid and iron) but there are other options. Gloves and eye protection are a must, as well as ventilation. You can neutralize it with a base, but the copper is toxic to the environment so you don't want to flush it either way. Here's the SDS for it.

This article I found very helpful

The other rainy day I was contemplating how to organize my drill accessories drawer with dividers.

It brought to my attention the sad shape of my older twist drill bit indexes. I always start out with good intentions of keeping up with all the drill bits, but over time I had broke or misplaced about 1/2 of the drill bits. I suppose most of yall can relate.

So I was looking around to buy me a new complete set, when I stumbled across the KISS Drill Bit System.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqUHmH_kL94

You can get it loaded with new bits of unknown quality for $189.

https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-KISS-SYSTEM-16-inch-Color-Coded/dp/B00VVHETZI

Which is about what I was prepared to spend on a good new set.

But then I sat there and stared at those 3 old indexes missing 1/2 the bits, and decided to just order the empty plastic organizer.

https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-KISS-INDEX-16-inch-Color-Coded/dp/B00VVHLZ7S/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NF2HD1T1GKAH7VRZYCX3

So when it came I dumped all my drill bits out on the desk and had my sharp eyed daughters go through them and put them in the right holes, and then paint them to match the color coded system.

Turns out I only had to buy about $30 worth of individual ( Drill America) jobber length bits to have at least 2 of every size.

https://drillsandcutters.com/jobber-drills/

..... worked out pretty good. Now even my old eyes can find the right bit without having to cut myself prying it out of the metal indexes.

I still have to figure out how to organize the remaining stuff in the drawer though. I'm open for suggestions on that.

Other than making sure you get the right drill bit, The key is to drill on soft earth, it seems to help against breakage. I set the bowl or whatever I am drilling into on my grass and I haven't lost any thrift store finds yet! (fingers crossed)

They already do. It's how I got the idea. Thanks though! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VVHLZ7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZY0kDbVW12V96

Buy a glass drillbit at home depot. That will run you a few bucks. Use the glass drillbit with yiur drill and presto! perfect hole. Find a downstem and add that. If you're lazy and don't want to have to pull the bowl you can make the dowstem and the bowl the same piece and add a shottie on the back. http://www.amazon.com/Mibro-456831-4-Piece-8-Inch-16-Inches/dp/B000FK3ZE8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=134365945http://www.bongoutlet.ca/bong-slider-p-444.html?osCsid=7ebfba2110d8735b9613796f77cec1470&sr=8-5&keywords=glass+drill+bit glass drillbit buy a downstem at a headshop and use it.

You can get sets of carbide PCB drills with a 1/8" shank far cheaper than a decent micro chuck.

I left it un-trimmed so the edges provide a bit of proof that I actually did it! I have yet to drill my pads and vias, but I use this PCB Drill Bit set with a Dremel mounted in a Dremel drill press.

https://www.amazon.com/COMOWARE-Titanium-Twist-Drill-Bit/dp/B07D9J6JLD/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1538519940&sr=1-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

They make light duty 1/4" bits these are just an example.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW0521-Connect-Impact-Conversion/dp/B000KKWLE8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538520015&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+drill+attachment&dpPl=1&dpID=41Z8TOZy3mL&ref=plSrch

This will convert any impact or the drill I linked.

Either option keeps you under budget.

A glass bit is a normal household tool. They are not very expensive and you can drill lots of holes:
http://www.amazon.com/Mibro-456831-4-Piece-8-Inch-16-Inches/dp/B000FK3ZE8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395952006&sr=8-2&keywords=drill+bit+glass

I have mounted things into 3/4" marble at work. Use a flame-tip tile drill bit to make a hole then depending on the weight of the blinds (do not do this for heavy roller blinds or roman shades) use a drywall anchor in the hole or use a washer and pass the screw right through the stone and into the window frame.