Reddit mentions: The best usb cables

We found 6,307 Reddit comments discussing the best usb cables. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 1,529 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

1. CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT), USB 3.0 Extender Male to Female Cord with Signal Booster Compatible Oculus Rift, Oculus Quest Link, Xbox one, etc. 5 Meters

    Features:
  • Optimal Signal Clarity: The USB 3.0 active extension cable features a signal booster design with a built-in NXP chip, gold-plated connectors and an inner braided shield. Excellent link performance is ideally avoiding attenuation for extra long-distance data transfer for a smoother, clearer experience than an ordinary USB cord
  • Broad Compatibility VR Devices: Compatible with Oculus Quest 2 Accessories, Rift Sensor ( Not work with Oculus Rift S), Steam, Playstation VR, HTC Vive, Valve Index VR. USB Extender is also excellent for CCTV camera, hard drive, mouse, gamepad, Xbox, Printer and most popular USB devices. Plug and play, no driver required
  • Super Speed and Stable transmission: USB 3.0 data transfer rate up to 5Gbps, allowing you to transfer HD movies or files in seconds. Note: ONLY work with USB 3.0 peripherals, so please connect the USB 3.0 port at both ends to ensure optimal performance
  • Extend & Protect USB Port: With this USB A extension cord, there is no need to squeeze yourself to the back of the TV or desktop to connect a USB disk or other USB peripherals. Protect the USB sockets on your devices from repeatedly plugging and unplugging. The USB cable extender is durable and flexible, and the 16.4 ft long length gives you freedom and movement
  • What You Get: 1 x USB Extension Cable 16.4 FT. CableCreation provides the item with 24 Months warranty, lifetime technical support, and friendly customer service
CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT), USB 3.0 Extender Male to Female Cord with Signal Booster Compatible Oculus Rift, Oculus Quest Link, Xbox one, etc. 5 Meters
Specs:
ColorUSB 3.0
Height0.0787401574 Inches
Length9.055118101 Inches
Size16 feet
Weight0.220462262 Pounds
Width5.905511805 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

2. I-o DATA USB connection video capture GV-USB2

    Features:
  • 6
I-o DATA USB connection video capture GV-USB2
Specs:
Colorblack
Height0.51181 Inches
Length0.716534 Inches
SizePack of 1
Weight0.11 Pounds
Width2.259838 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

19. Cable Matters USB C to Micro USB Cable (Micro USB to USB-C Cable) with Braided Jacket 3.3 Feet in Black

    Features:
  • Micro USB to USB C cable connects a computer with a Type-C port to a smartphone, tablet, digital camera or legacy USB peripheral device with the common Micro USB port; Low-profile and robust USBC to Micro USB cable clicks into place for a snug and secure connection; Type-C USB to Micro-B cable supports Hi-Speed USB 2.0 data transfer rate up to 480 Mbps
  • Legacy companion USB C cable to Micro USB for connecting a smartphone with Micro USB to a computer with Thunderbolt 3 such as the 2016 MacBook Pro; Connect a USB DAC such as the Fiio E18 to a phone with USB-C; Connect a PS4 game controller with Micro-USB to a computer with USB-C; Use an existing Micro-USB power bank to charge a phone with USB-C
  • Braided jacket design USB Type C to Micro USB cable provides added durability and a distinctive look and feel; Lightweight USB C to USB Micro cable is easy to handle with a reversible USB Type C connector that plugs and unplugs easily without checking for the connector orientation
  • Engineered to last Micro USB to Type C cable with a reinforced braided jacket, sturdy construction, and USB connectors with molded strain relief for frequent unplugging; Fully Shielded USB-C to Micro-USB cable provides superior transmission performance and projects against EMI/RFI noise; Lifetime warranty and product support for this cable provides peace of mind when purchasing
  • USB Micro to USB C cable compatible with smartphones such as the Google Nexus 5X, 6P, Google Pixel, HTC 10/Bolt, One Plus 2/3, Moto Z Droid/ Z Force, and ZenFone 3, Huawei P9/Honor 8/Mate 9
Cable Matters USB C to Micro USB Cable (Micro USB to USB-C Cable) with Braided Jacket 3.3 Feet in Black
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height0.3 Inches
Length9 Inches
Size3 Feet
Weight0.04 Pounds
Width6 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on usb cables

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where usb cables are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 67
Number of comments: 22
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 67
Number of comments: 16
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 62
Number of comments: 24
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 59
Number of comments: 44
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 57
Number of comments: 26
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 34
Number of comments: 14
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 30
Number of comments: 17
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 27
Number of comments: 17
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 25
Number of comments: 14
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 24
Number of comments: 18
Relevant subreddits: 1

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Top Reddit comments about USB Cables:

u/MarkdownShadowBot · 1 pointr/ShadowBan

Hi /u/El_Pinguino_Maldito, you're not shadowbanned, but some of your comments/submissions were removed. Comments/submissions may be removed automatically by spam filters and not necessarily by human moderators.

Reviewed most recent 250 comments/submissions. Found 10 removed.


Comment: /r/me_irl, 2018-11-16, "me irl", 1pts:

> REEEEEEEEEEEPOST





Comment: /r/u_Lexiehewitt007, 2018-11-14, "Can You Find What's Wrong In This Picture?", 1pts:

> 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😩😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😩😂😂😂...





Comment: /r/me_irl, 2018-11-14, "me_irl", 1pts:

> I guess I’m gay then





Comment: /r/me_irl, 2018-11-13, "Me_irl", 1pts:

> Jigglytrump





Comment: /r/AskReddit, 2018-11-11, "- Serious How old were you when you realized you were gay?...", 1pts:

> Not gay, but I figured out I was a furry at about 14. I just found that floofy anthros were more attractive.





Comment: /r/AskReddit, 2018-11-11, "Reddit, whats your most biggest and most recent first world...", 1pts:

> Buy a USB extender on Amazon. [Here’s one that’s 16 feet long and costs $13.](https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Repeater-Booster/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/135-8523871-4760609?...





Submission: /r/explainlikeimfive, 2018-11-11, "ELI5: How do bitwise operations work?", 1pts





Comment: /r/AskOuija, 2018-11-10, "This bitch is going into the dungeon until she _____ and...", 1pts:

> Goodbye





Comment: /r/me_irl, 2018-11-10, "me_irl", 1pts:

> I’m reposting this to r/furry_irl





Submission: /r/Showerthoughts, 2018-11-09, "Running in the 90’s was a meme on two separate occasions", 1pts








^^I'm ^^a ^^multi-function ^^bot. ^^My ^^home ^^is ^^at ^^/r/CommentRemovalChecker ^^- ^^find ^^out ^^if ^^your ^^comments/submissions ^^have ^^been ^^silently ^^removed ^^without ^^your ^^knowledge!

u/OwThatHertz · 1 pointr/VRGaming

Warning: long post, but you asked, so... ;-) Note: Recycling some of my older comments with specifics for your post.

What CPU and GPU do/will you have? Do you have enough room to walk around, or just enough to swing your arms? What kind of games do you prefer? These answers have an impact on the "best" headset (HMD) for you. Think of it this way: what's the best car? The answer is different if your priorities are fuel economy, cargo space, towing capacity, or top speed/acceleration.

"Best" Games:

"Best games" is really subjective. Do you like puzzle games? Action? RTS? "Experiences" Racing/flying/space simulators? FPS? (Note: FPS in VR is very different from FPS on a screen.) Each platform has enough good games that this shouldn't impact your buying decision much. I have favorites on each, but Oculus has the most exclusives. (Often considered a bad thing for the VR industry.)

I own the Vive (non-Pro), Rift, and Samsung Odyssey, and I've used the PSVR (briefly) so my comments are based on use of all three.

Easiest to use for a newbie:

The Rift is slightly easier to use than the Vive (though not by much) due to its streamlined and consumer-oriented user experience, at the cost of capability and options. The Vive has more options flexibility but can sometimes be a little more hassle to troubleshoot if things go wrong. Then again, fixing it when things go wrong is less likely to require a complete reinstall like Oculus does. Windows Mixed Reality setup is easy but it's clearly a Microsoft experience. It's like the Rift was designed by marketers, the Vive by engineers, and WMR by a project manager. Winner: Rift, by a hair, with WMR limping along in the rear.

Oculus Rift:

Lighter and easier to deal with. Has built-in audio. Some really nice platform exclusives, though there is a way to play those on the Vive. (More on that shortly.) Cheaper than the Vive, and cheapest option in general other than some Windows Mixed Reality HMDs that you should probably avoid. Tracking is slightly inferior to the Vive, but not much. Seated/standing experiences work slightly better than roomscale. However, roomscale is feasible on the Rift with only two sensors by mounting them in opposite corners of your play area. Requires at least 3 USB 3 ports, 4 if you add a 3rd sensor. Games/apps purchased through the Oculus Store won't work on another HMD (barring 3rd party hacks/apps like LibreVR/ReVive, limiting your future hardware upgrade options so buy any non-Oculus exclusives through the Steam store. Touch controllers are the current king for controllers, but Knuckle controllers for Vive/SteamVR are pending. (More on that shortly.) More pronounced "god rays" than the Vive. The business practices and politics of Facebook/Oculus are questionable, if you care about that sort of thing. HTC just opened its VR store to Oculus users so you have more buying options than you used to, though I prefer buying through Steam.

HTC Vive:

The Vive Pro is more than double the Vive's cost and isn't that much better, so I won't go into it much here. The Vive has somewhat better tracking than the Rift and Roomscale works slightly better, in my experience. No built-in audio on the regular Vive but this is resolved with the Deluxe Audio Strap, albeit for $100 more. Games are (usually) purchased through Steam, which means you can take advantage of Steam sales, buy games at a discount (sometimes 80-90% off!) from third-party sites like Humble Bundle, Green Man Gaming, etc. Note, however, that the Rift is compatible with most VR games on Steam, too. You can also play Rift exclusives using free, third-party software called ReVive, but that this is not officially supported and not every game works. (Tricks Rift titles into thinking a Rift is connected.) Controllers are meh but work fine; just not as intuitive or comfortable as the Rift's. When (might be a while) the Knuckles controllers finally come out, they'll probably be the best. The Vive is more glasses-friendly but those who are just nearsighted won't necessarily need to wear glasses at all. There's a new wireless adapter that's nice but only applies if you're driving it with a desktop PC because it uses a PCIe card rather than USB. For non-wireless, one nice thing about the Vive is that the HMD only uses one USB 3.0 and one HDMI port. The Lighthouses (base stations) only need power and don't require USB.

Samsung Odyssey (WMR):

Higher resolution display, on par with the Vive Pro, which equates to a much less pronounced "screen door effect" (gridlines between pixels) than others. This is very nice for detailed games like racing games or flight/space sims with small dials or text. Significantly lesser support for games and experiences. That said, just because an app doesn't explicitly state it works with WMR doesn't mean it won't... but it might not. Controllers are pretty bad compared to the others and it's easy to accidentally end up in a menu. Tracking is also worse (uses inside-out tracking, so no sensors), but still significantly better than I thought it would be. This won't matter much if at all for seated or standing experiences; just for roomscale. The benefit is that you can do VR on the go with a gaming laptop. (At least a 1070 Max Q, though a full 1070 or 1080 is recommended.) The cable is significantly shorter than the others so roomscale is somewhat limited. There are specific cases (for example: archery games) where the controllers will end up out of view of the HMD's cameras, breaking tracking. While tracking isn't perfect, it's "good enough" and I bring it with me regularly.

Other Windows Mixed Reality HMDs:

The Lenovo Explorer gets some good reviews and sometimes goes on sale for as little as $170 with controllers. (Note: it can be found cheaper without controllers but you need controllers for most VR experiences.) It's important to note that the Lenovo Explorer (and all other WMR HMDs other than the the Samsung Odyssey) lacks IPD adjustment to save cost. IPD means interpupilary distance and is the distance between your eyes. However, using an HMD without the right IPD can cause nausea, blurriness, and headaches and can ruin your VR experience so I'd recommend one that has it. The Samsung Odyssey and Lenovo Explorer are the only WMR that I've heard consistently good things about. The others are cheap but lack features, perform poorly, or both. Note: WMR requires Windows to be completely up to date and will hang upon installlation (when you plug in your HMD) with no apparent reason why. Update Windows before using.

PSVR:

Poor quality lenses and tracking that isn't on par with the others, even WMR. This is what you buy if you own a Playstation and can't afford/aren't interested in buying or building a gaming PC. Some nice exclusives, though. IPD adjustment isn't great.

A note about VR graphics:

To avoid nausea, VR generally has to run at about 90 Hz, which can reduce model/texture complexity. However, people have done amazing things with VR so you simply don't notice. Lone Echo (Oculus exclusive), for example, has stunning visuals. (Story, mechanics, and pure immersive feeling are also excellent.) Lone Echo is VR done right, and feels like an AAA title. The Climb is another example of incredible visuals and reasonable immersion. The Climb is currently making the rounds (again) of Reddit via this GIF. Skyrim VR is another example of impressive visuals in VR. Skyrim is somewhat dated, but yes; those incredible photorealistic immersion mods from desktop Skyrim work in VR and you can totally play Skyrim VR seated. Follow this guide and remove Immersive Armor (buggy), replace WICO with TCM, and you're set... after 6 hours of setup. ;-) All of that said... you're looking at a 1080p monitor magnified by relatively cheap optics no matter which rout you go. You are going to notice the pixels, but you'll forget about it pretty quickly as you get distracted by the experiences and visuals. The only exception will be games with small details like flight/space sims. These really need higher res than VR can realistically provide though this may change with 20-series GPUs. For everything else, you'll mostly forget about the issue.

Cable lengths:

All VR HMD cables are too short. You can buy extension cables, but some work and some don't... sometimes with no apparent reason. I've found this HDMI cable and this USB extension cable works to extend the HDM for both the Vive and the Rift, and this USB extension cable works to extend Rift cameras. If you buy both a Vive and a Rift at some point, the extension cables I linked for the HMDs can go to the Vive's breakout box and then either the Vive or Rift can plug into that with success. The Samsung Odyssey does NOT work when plugged into the Vive's breakout box but I haven't yet tested the extension cables so it might work if the breakout box isn't present.

TL;DR:

My recommendation for first-time VR on a budget is the Oculus Rift unless you can afford the Vive (so long as you can also afford the Delux Audio Strap), in which case I'd recommend the Vive. The Samsung Odyssee is also a decent solution but at its price point I'd generally recommend the others unless the majority of your usage will be seated, in highly-detailed simulators or similar games, or unless you bring it with you a lot.

u/Ketomatic · 22 pointsr/speedrun

Literally copy-pasting from your pastebin because it'll look better here and I don't have to worry about looking like I'm hijacking because I didn't write it, aha! Having more resources in one thread can only be a good thing. Aim your upvotes at /u/senichi

~~

What game should I speedrun?


You should speedrun a game that you love to play. If you're serious about speedrunning a game, that could mean practicing for possibly upwards of hundreds of hours to beat your time. You might be playing the same segment of a game over and over again before you're finally happy with your performance in that section, and you could be playing for many hours before that happens. For this reason, you want to pick a game that you won't get bored of quickly. A game that you're happy playing for possibly hundreds of hours so you can get a time that you're happy with before you get bored of it.

How do I start speedrunning?


Once you pick a game, there are different ways you can start speedrunning. Here's the method I like to use after picking a game.

  1. Figure out if other people have run the game. If they have, figure out what categories exist. Some games have multiple categories that you might like or not like. For example, if you would prefer a short run, you probably don't want to do a 100% category.

  2. Pick a category. In the rare case that nobody has run the game you want to run before, you get to pick your own ategory. This can be something like "any% - beat the game as fast as possible" or maybe you want your run to focus on collectibles or completion. If other people have run the game you want to run, then you might want to pick a pre-defined category so you're not completely in the dark.

  3. Look into runs that people have submitted in various places. You can check Speedrun.com or YouTube, or just Google your game and the category to see runs of it. Watch the world record run, then look for a runs with worse times that might use a different route. The world record run often uses strategies that are risky and hard to do, so you might not want to jump into a game using that route.

  4. Find guides. When you think you've seen enough routes, you want to either start looking for tutorials (this is usually only an option for the popular games to run), or if you picked a game that isn't a popular speedrun game, you might need to just use any submission videos as your "tutorial".

  5. Play the game. Run the the game slowly using the strategies outlined in any tutorial you found, or by copying what you saw in a video. If possible, try doing any tricks or strategies that are new to you multiple times before moving on. Stay on this step until you feel fairly comfortable with your game. If needed replay the game slowly a few times and use the speedrun tricks.

  6. Do a run. Make it official. Find a timer, for this run any timer should do fine, and time your run from start to finish. Don't worry about your final time. A lot of people have terrible times in their first run, but that's totally okay, it just means it'll be easier for you to beat it later on.

  7. Practice. When you finish your timed run, you should have a pretty good idea on what you need practice with. Some things you thought you were confident on might be more difficult in an actual run. Practice anything you had trouble with in your first run.

  8. Repeat. From here on, you pretty much just repeat steps 6 and 7.

    I'm getting bored of my game! What do I do?


    Don't worry, that's not abnormal. Since speedrunning requires so much dedication towards a single game to get a good time, it's common for people to get burnt out or bored before they're happy with their personal best. If you're getting burnt out, I recommend simply taking a break. There's no harm in leaving your game alone for a month or longer and playing other games. Maybe even learn a new game for fun if you still have the speedrunning itch you want to scratch. If you continue to play a game that you're starting to get bored of, you risk getting bored of it on a much longer term, and possibly resenting the game or even outright start to hate it. Who knows, maybe when you come back to the game feeling refreshed, it might be even easier to get a new personal best.

    What capture device should I use, and how do I set it up?


    First ask yourself this question: Do you want a cheaper capture device, or would you rather have a good quality device?

    If you want a cheaper device, many people recommend the GV-USB2. It's considered the best SD capture device on the market, so if you're recording the older consoles that don't need HD video, then this should work perfectly.

    If you want a higher definition device, I recommend the Elgato GameCapture HD. It's very easy to use and the output is excellent. Keep in mind that, at the moment, if you use the GameCapture HD, you might have to use XSplit instead of OBS to stream. OBS currently has an issue with the GameCapture HD that causes it to desync, and in my experience XSplit doesn't have this issue

    In addition to the capture device, you will need TWO Composite Video Cables, and you will need THREE splitters.

    Here's a picture of how to set up your capture device using the GameCapture HD and a Nintendo 64 as an example. The setup would be the exact same using the GV-USB2 and any other console that uses composite cables. If using the GameCapture HD and HDMI cables, the GameCapture HD has an HDMI in and HDMI out port, so you would just use two HDMI cables, one going from your console to HDMI in, and another going from HDMI out to the TV.

    Who currently holds the world record for <game>? How can I find more information about <game>?


    There are multiple ways to figure this out.

  9. Google it. Just Google "<game> speedrun world record" and see if anything pops up. Look for the fastest time and there's a decent change that's the world record.

  10. Check Speedrun.com. A lot of smaller communities and even some larger ones use Speedrun.com because it's easier than making a whole new page. Check this site for the game you're curious about and see if you find anything.

  11. Look for Wikis. This subreddit has a wiki that lists a lot of different sites that might host leaderboards. Check to see if the game you're looking for has a wiki on that list, and if not, try Google again to see if there are any wikis not listed in there.

  12. Ask around. Go to Twitch and look to see if anyone is streaming the game you're curious about. You might find someone speedrunning the game right now, and then you could ask them or see if their Twitch bio has any information about it. If that doesn't work, you could check out the weekly noob question thread and ask about the game. Someone else might know where you can find the information you're looking for. You could also send a message to someone that runs the game on Twitch if you know anyone that does, even if they're offline. Speedrunners are generally happy to spread information about their game and would be happy to answer any of your questions.

    Can I use an emulator?


    This varies a lot from game to game. Different communities deal with emulators in their own ways. The usual answer to this question is yes, but it's considered a different category. The reason for this is because emulators are often not perfect in their emulation, so there might be differences in framerate, which affects your time, or sometimes even entire tricks are possible only on emulator.

    Some games don't accept emulation at all, but that only means that any runs that you do on emulator won't be able to go on the leaderboard. You still might want to use an emulator for exclusively practice because emulators let you use save states that make it easier to repeat the same part over and over again. Just keep in mind that while using an emulator you might be practicing at a different framerate than on console, or you might be dealing with slight input lag.

    The FAQ on SpeedRunsLive has a list of emulators that are commonly used and banned.

    In the end, the answer to whether or not you can use an emulator is specific to whatever game you're playing. These are only general guidelines and may vary on your game.

    What's that timer program I see on peoples' streams, and how can I get it?


    There are multiple timer programs that are listed on the Tools sections of SpeedRunsLive. The most popular timer program at the moment is LiveSplit, but in the end it's personal preference.

u/authorblues · 1 pointr/retrogaming

The standard elgato may not be a great choice for twitch, since there is a ~2 second delay that can be a bit of an annoyance.

You basically need:
A capture card
GV-USB2 is pretty great quality for SD, but installing the drivers is entirely in japanese. They're pretty easy to figure out by just hitting random buttons and guessing, but people have made guides for "hit these buttons in this order". Once you set it up, it'll work perfectly from then on. The Dazzle DVC 100 used to be a pretty common choice, but I think the GV-USB2 is honestly better (I have a Dazzle, and even I'll admit the GV-USB2 is better).

As far as a splitter/switch, unpowered splitter cables would be fine, such as these plugged into the side of your NES, just make sure you get RCA cables that match up to go to your TV and to your capture card. If you want to get the best picture quality, a powered splitter/switch like this one will give a slightly better picture and will give you room to hook up more consoles as well (since it is a switch as well).

As for software, the standard entry-level streaming software is OBS, and for free software, it honestly is pretty great. If you want to spend money, there's some other good stuff out there, but OBS does everything you'd probably want to do. If you want something a bit better for a timer than your iPhone, try LiveSplit. You can setup splits to keep track of your pace (though considering how short the WR is, just a basic timer is probably fine, this will just allow you to let people watching on youtube or twitch see your timer too).

If you need any help otherwise, let me know.

u/EdgarFriendly297 · 7 pointsr/OculusQuest

So, the cable recommended by Oculus arrived and I gave it a quick test. Just to recap, this is what I posted yesterday:


>My experience so far has been OK but not great.
>
>For reference, I'm using a R5 3600x and GTX 1660 ti, 16GB ram.
>
>This is the cable I'm using
>
>It may be the cable I'm using but I do find it blurrier compared to the Rift S. And I'm seeing compression artifacts in dark areas. For example, in Skyrim at night the mountains in the distance have artifacts. Although, I'm not seeing artifacts in the grass like I could see when using ALVR and VD. Also in the loading screens in Asgard's Wrath, which are mostly dark, I'm seeing a fair bit of artifacts. Lighter parts of the game seem fine.
>
>I've got the cable on order that Oculus suggested. I'm curious to see if it fairs any better.

I ran through the same games as yesterday with this new cable and I'm still seeing video artifacts. It may not be to the extent of the first cable, but definitely still there. The game that seemed to hold up the best was Stormland. Aside from the slight blurriness compared to the Rift S, it was a pretty good image.

Later this week I'll be testing with a RTX 2060 Super to see if there are any improvements.

So far I see the Link as a nice addition to the Quest, but it won't be replacing my Rift S. I think what Oculus has achieved is amazing, and I hope they can keep improving the image.

u/mikegriffin84 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Here is a gift from me to you. I know you have the 3rd sensor but the rest of the information is good. This is my setup and what I recommend to friends and family. Check it out.

1st GET A THIRD SENSOR IF YOU WANT TRUE ROOMSCALE "they are on backorder at the moment"

2nd Get three of these for your sensors to make sure they can reach anywhere you want them too. USB 3.0 is better than 2.0 because the cameras run at a higher resolution and fps thereby increasing tracking and with your USB add-on cards this will be the perfect setup.: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3rd Get 2 of these to completely isolate all of you VR components from the sometimes janky unreliable USB ports on A LOT of motherboards that cannot supply enough power and/or bandwidth for all of the cameras and HMD to work properly I chose this card because it only has two ports and both of those ports work no matter if you plug in 2 sensors or 1 sensor and the HMD. The Inatek card DOES have issues for somewhere some ports work and others do not and are still only being able to run 2 sensors off the Inatek card and having to run the HMD and 3rd sensor off the motherboard. The Orico card just works and you don't have to think about experimenting with ports just plug everything into the two Orico cards in any configuration and go. Also use the default Windows drivers whether you go with the Inatek or Orico card only upgrade after trying the defaults drivers without success: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AVSN2YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4th This is optional. One of these for extending your HMD HDMI cable by 15ft for a total of 28ft: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D5EUD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5th This repeater is required to make the HDMI cable above work, but with this repeater, the extension is flawless: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

6th To extend the Rift HMD USB I use the USB 2.0 Active Extension Monoprice Repeater Cable that comes with the 3rd sensor it is 16ft long, works perfectly. Then I used a small piece of electrical tape every 6 inches from the HMD to the PC to make the extended HMD cable one piece leaving about 2 ft of cable loose at the end to be able to plug in wherever I want.

I did a lot of research bought the Inateck and Orico USB add-on cards, multiple active USB extensions, multiple different HDMI adapters and extensions of varying lengths, Display port to HDMI adapters, DVI to HMDI adapters, and did all the experimentation and testing required to make all this work. The list I listed above works every time on multiple systems in different environments, rooms, and households.
If you need clarification on anything and/or want more information, feel free to respond or message me. I will gladly help.

u/soundman1024 · 1 pointr/editors

Without knowing more about your ingest workflow it's had to say, but you might be well served with a Pegasus R6/R8 or similar. That'll give the bandwidth to be ingesting a few cards at once and be duplicating to a portable drive that can go back to editoral. The fewer volumes I have to manage the easier I find staying organized. One 30TB volume seems a lot more manageable than 6 4TB drives floating everywhere. If you go the RAID/NAS route make sure you don't go too small.

A RAID could also be easier on the AEs if the DIT cart can be connected to the SAN and ingested that way. Instead of a couple hundred Mbps you could get in the Gbps range. Remember that standard gigabit ethernet won't be the answer for high speed transfers.

I know you have three laptops for ingest, but I'd try to build the cart around one laptop copying footage. Again, fewer moving parts is easier to manage. Having a utility laptop that can tackle other tasks is often useful. If you need to make proxy files in the field look into a NAS solution instead of a RAID so you can get two, three, or more computers hitting the storage concurrently.

---

On top topic of a DIT cart, put some thought into a cart. What it should have. I'd be looking for a big heavy UPS on the bottom to give the thing some stability. Maybe an APC2200? Not sure how worried you are about weight...don't use that if you're flying with it. Get your own network going on there if you have multiple computers. Also add a Thunderbolt dock and power strip on the top to give you more USB ports and power for all the travel drives that will show up. I'd connect drives to a laptop in the middle and look for a way to put a laptop on an arm on the side of the cart too. Needs to collapse down so the whole things is self-contained for transport. I'd use the middle laptop for copying and the side laptop for proxy creation.

Make sure you have all the cables on hand. Thunderbolt 2, USB2 B, USB2 Mini-B (old GoPro charging), USB2 Micro-B (old Android charging), USB3 B, USB3 Micro-B, and finally USB C. I'd have 1 each on the USB2 variants, 2 each on the USB3 variants, and 3 of the Type C variants. Gauge your own need for Firewire 400, Firewire 800, HDMI, Ethernet, and the requisite dongles. Might be wise to have a USB-A dongle and maybe an Ethernet dongle on hand for the Touchbar laptops. Even if you don't have a Touchbar they're coming. It isn't that much money (comparatively) to keep these kinds of things in a drawer, but it can make a huge difference if you have it on hand.

I'd probably trick my cart out with a mass charger and some Lightning and Type-C cables. Hit all the cables with some orange gaff or some sort of mark so that people don't carry them away. Might even tape the phone cables to the cart. Might seem excessive, but if you set that up people won't be filling up your power strip with their chargers or plugging their phones into your ingest station. 10 ports might be more than you need, especially since people shouldn't be using their phones too heavily on set, but the goal is to make sure your power strip isn't used on phones.

---

As for software, you'll have to consider your needs and what fits them best. I'm not a lot of help on that front. Haven't messed around with the options too much.

u/kiwiandapple · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

That Game Boy Player would absolutely not work, I mean.. it would allow you to play gameboy games, but you need to have the physical game disks.

It won't allow you to play WoW or something like that.

---

If you can paint out your vision?
I don't really understand much of what you have in mind. I would likely advise against the "roof". This will make it very complicated and also pretty difficult, based on the

  • GameCube front picture
  • GameCube rear picture
  • GameCube rear picture with mini motherboard inside

    ---

    You want to place this adapter inside it? That's possible when you use an internal USB adapter cable like that one.
    But again, space is the big issue.

    I looked at the BRIX as best as I could since that seems to be the best & smallest option you've got. Here is the inside of it. It's tiny, but it also got 2 small fans next to it, to keep the CPU & GPU cool under load. Without those fans, the temperatures of both the CPU and GPU will not stay in check..
    Those fans are also pretty annoyingly loud.

    You could perhaps find replacements for these fans, to get the noise down. It are 40x40mm fans, which Noctua also produces. These fans will be a lot more silent, but I think that they might not push enough air.. Especially because of the fact that the GameCube is not extremely well ventilated. This is something you'll have to likely test out yourself.
    This Sycthe fan is 10mm thicker but also pushes a bit more air compared to the Noctua. It also is a bit louder (on paper) compared to it because of it.

    Do you already have the GameCube with you? If so, it's time to pull out a venier caliper and start measuring. You really need to know everything.
    Put it on a piece of paper or excel document or something.

    ---

    You could even simply consider to use the program SketchUp. It's a free program that allows you to design whatever you want. I would recommend to at least have a look at some beginners guides so that you can do the very basic things, without going crazy.

    You can use this to sketch out and design this whole thing from the ground up in software, before you start to even touch the GameCube in real life. To see if it would actually fit or just to see how much space you would have. SketchUp got a lot of GameCubes in it's 3D warehouse. But they're all in different sizes and I don't think anyone is actually in the right scale.
    The closest one that's correct in terms of actual size / scale is that tiny one in the middle.
u/iotku · 3 pointsr/speedrun

Easycap clones ($5-10~)

If you're extremely short on funds you can play the easycap clone roulette and hope you get one that kinda works maybe.

You might end up getting one that just happens to suite your needs fine.... or you might not.

Not Reccomended, but cheap

Used Dazzle DVC100 ($20~)

Dazzles can be somewhat cheap used, they're still not the best capture cards money can buy and have some driver issues, but it's a popular choice and works for a lot of people well enough. Can be found on ebay for pretty cheap.

Probably the cheapest option aside from the "Easycrap" clones

KWorld ($30~)

/u/TLoZSR mentioned a while back that he was a fan of This KWorld Capture card.

I've seen a few of his videos with it and they look perfectly fine.


EZCaps ($30-$35~)

I've heard ok things about the legit EZCaps (not the cheap clones)
If you go this route make sure you're not ending up with a fake!

I don't have any personal experience with them.

GV-USB2 ($50~)

This defiantly deserves an honorable mention, although isn't anywhere as cheap as a used dazzle. Default settings out of the box are great, picture quality is very good, good drivers, and pretty much no complaints. Oh and here's an amazon link I guess (can be hard to find elsewhere). Box / driver installation is in Japanese, but not too difficult to figure out.

I use it personally and I really like it

These are all SD capture cards with composite/S-video, composite will look not so great regardless of a powered splitting setup, however it's defiantly recommended if you use S-Video (powered splitters can cost $30-50~), alternatively you may be able to get by without splitters if you have a video cable with both S-Video and composite (s-video would go into your capture card), but you may also lose a bit of quality that way if the cables aren't too good.

https://kb.speeddemosarchive.com/Splitters explains a fair bit

Good Luck!

u/Zenithiel · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

I'm going through some old family tapes myself and though I would share what I'm doing.
I'm totally not sure this is the best way to do it, because there seems to always be a better way to squeeze more quality out of it the more I look, but what I did is use a capture card like this:

https://www.amazon.com/DATA-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539027006&sr=8-1&keywords=i-o+data+usb+connection+video+capture+gv-usb2

Some people buy really good old VCRs with time based correction, but that is just out of my league at the moment, in both money and effort, and I'm happy with the quality I have so far.

I personally capture it using virtualdub with the lagorith lossless codec, though I think there are better ones out there that require more processing power. The files still tend to be quite huge though as raw files tend to be I think. I then use Staxrip to finish it up by trimming it up and applying QTGMC, which is supposedly a very high quality deinterlacer that bumps it up to 59.98 fps, and it denoises the video fairly well too. At the end of this process I have a decent MP4 that I can watch and relive some memories.

At the end of the day though, there is only so much you can do with VHS, and this is just the culmination of me spending way too much time scouring the internet for ways to preserve VHS footage. Its probably not the best way to do it, as I'm continuously finding posts that say one way is better, some its evidence based, some of its subjective. Its a huge headache, depending on how far you want to jump down the rabbit hole, but I hope this helps you if you just want to see how some else has done it. If anybody has any questions, or has found a better and simpler way of doing it let me know though! Still learning. This video got me started

u/shamrockstriker · 8 pointsr/smashbros

Fellow broke college TO here. My weeklies average around 15 too so i feel like we're in a similar situation. My venue doesn't have good enough internet in the basement to stream to Twitch, so we only record and upload to youtube.

For my laptop, I use a pretty ok, free laptop my college gave me. You don't need anything fancy if you're not streaming.

I use this as a capture card, I got it on sale for like $15. It's far from the best but it really gets the job done and serves its purpose.

http://www.microcenter.com/product/315700/USB_20_Video_and_Audio_Capture_Device

I've also had one of my players recommend me this capture card. I've never used it but I hear it's cheap and it's good.

https://www.amazon.com/I-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y

For the player cam, I use a used camera on got on sale for $11. Once again, it's not great. But it gets the job done on a budget.

For the actual stream layout I found free overlays online, and my homie who's good with photoshop hooked us up with a logo for free.

If you wanna see what we're working with, how it looks, and what the quality looks like here's our Youtube channel.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1bW6_nKMnvljeFXHpogkhw/playlists

If you have any questions just hit me up. I'd love to help another little local scene like mine grow!

u/Talwyn_Wize · 2 pointsr/oculus

There are some things you could try out, if you haven't already.

  1. My most important point, choosing a "High/Ultimate Performance" or equivalent setting (use your best option) on your battery power. I shouldn't need to say this, but you get better performance with the powercable attached.

  2. Remember to deactivate USB selective suspend and do the same in your Device Manager, so that your computer doesn't hibernate or adjust USB power-settings. I know the OculusTrayTool does the same/similar, if you use it, but I've not been lucky enough to have that work when I need it to.

  3. Also, make sure you've removed as many USB-devices from your computer as possible. For example; external harddrives, mouse, keyboard, headset (if USB), even memory sticks, so that they don't draw power away from your USB channels. You might actually want some of these connected while you play, but try without first, to figure out whether or not it works. Your ports share channels, you see, so they are affected by each other.

  4. You probably don't want to go looking for further extension cables at this point, but I use these ones, and they work very well.

  5. Remember to update your USB drivers. Feel free to check your Asus website first, but Windows 10 might have new and better drivers, or the manufacturer of the chip could have even newer. There are ways to discover the manufacturer's name and model of your USB device in Device Manager, if you know where to look. Google it. ;) Mind you, keep your Asus drivers ready as backup, because the computer might not "officially" support it, though it's easy to roll back drivers. After driver-update, you might have to repeat option [2].

  6. If you have software that controls USB-ports to an extent (like apps looking for USB devices), disabling them could help, but you need to restart and ensure they don't start automatically again. There're some split opinions out there on whether or not it helps, but I'm including it just in case.

    I advise you to restart your computer after you've done your adjustments and connected your Rift, so that the computer will prioritize the USB power-draw correctly on startup.

    Chances are you've tried these options already, but if not, give them a try. Unfortunately, I can't think of any other alternatives. The VR-tests I can find of your laptop seem to have been done without extensions. Feel free to contact Asus support - they might have some recommendations, as I doubt you'll be the first with the issue.

    Good luck!




u/Myperson54 · 2 pointsr/speedrun

To add to the other two suggestions, I'll add what I believe are two far better solutions: The GV-USB2 and USB3HDCAP

The GV-USB2 is a USB dongle-style capture card that only captures composite/RCA video and S-video, which is the best you'll get from the Gamecube without expensive cables. It's about $35 USD.

The Startech USB3HDCAP is more expensive, but it will capture HDMI for newer consoles and PCs, as well as composite, S-Video, Component (the best video signal out of a Wii and easy to get cables for), and even RGB. It's probably the best quality card there is at its price and it's offered me a far better user experience than Elgato's devices have for me. I also know PJ DiCesare uses it for his runs and he has excellent capture quality. It's currently on sale for $182.

Importantly, both will capture video at 60fps which I'm not convinced the standard def EZcap will do, and without the added noise and delay I find Elgato devices tend to add.

Hopefully this helps.

u/senichi · 1 pointr/speedrun

I don't run that game, but looking at the leaderboards, you need the actual console to run (no emuator) and it seems practically everyone prefers gamecube (instead of Wii) so this should be your list:

  • Gamecube + game + whatever else you need to play (you probably have all this covered)

  • Some kind of timer program. You can find a list on this page under "Timers". I would personally recommend LiveSplit.

    Those are the bare minimum you'll want to run the game. Just the game and the timer. However you will most likely eventually want something to record the run if you get serious about it, or want to share your runs with other people, or if you want a record of your runs, or if you want some way for your runs to be verified (there are lots of reasons to want to record your runs) so you'll also need:

  • Some sort of capture device. The go-to for SD consoles like the Gamecube is the GV-USB2. There are others, but this one will give you the best performance for its price and you don't need any HD equipment to record a GameCube. If you do want an HD capture device, I have an Elgato GameCapture HD and I'd recommend it.

  • 2 double sided composite cables. They look like this.

  • 3 splitters. Specifically ones that look like this.

    And that's it. When you have all those things, you set up the capture device like this. That's a picture with the GameCapture HD because that's all I have, but it would be the exact same setup with the GV-USB2.
u/Sylnic · 4 pointsr/SSBPM

The GV-USB2 is probably one of the best cheap cards out there. If you want an example of the quality, here's a recording from back when I was using it. I'm pretty sure it can look even better, as I was only using the RCA cables, and not the S-Video input. Just make sure you get a powered splitter like this or this (for S-video) so you can send the signal to both the TV and the recording device without lag.

Just make sure you set the device up properly and use some kind of deinterlacing. For ease of use I'd just recommend using the built in de-interlacing options in OBS.

Edit: If you're short on money and don't want to spend extra on a splitter for live capture, then you can just save your match replays using Legacy TE, and then record them through the recording device using your computer screen to navigate the menus. This requires extra work though, and it can be easy to forget to save your replays. I'd just recommend getting the capture device and the splitter so you can record it all in one go.

u/MusclesLinguine · 1 pointr/homelab

Good call on the 3.5" bays. Regardless, I think you will be fine to start out with 2 or 4 3.5" bays :). Down the line, you could expand your storage options with a NAS. There is plenty of time for that.

I think one way to get both ESXi and HyperV experience is to deploy a HyperV instance inside of a ESXi VM. That way, you get to experience both. There are a few articles about doing this out there, here is one.

ESXi is relatively easy to get started with especially since they have a slick web GUI for it now (as of ESXi 6.0 Update 2). It would probably help to get some experience with the older vSphere client (since that is still kicking around). vSphere Client is a Windows application. It is going to go away eventually, but it does not hurt to have some familiarity with it.

Starting with ESXi is not too different than other hypervisors. You can download the free hypervisor here. You can burn that ISO to a CD or put it on a USB stick. If you are going to throw it on a USB stick, I would recommend using Rufus because it makes the process of putting the ISO on a USB stick much easier. Once that is booted up, it will start the installer. Follow the prompts, and you are good to go. Since you do not have a ton of SATA ports to spare, you may want to consider putting ESXi on a USB stick of its own (not the one you use to install it). I do not know if the Z400 has an internal USB A port, but if not, you could convert a front panel header into a USB A port with something like this. Putting ESXi on a USB stick frees up a SATA port for whatever storage solution you want to have.

To manage it, you can use the slick GUI (I believe you can just navigate to https://<IP of ESXi box>/ui) or vSphere Client, available here. VM operations are very similar to what you are used to with VirtualBox. From there, you can branch out to the aspects of the hypervisor that are interesting to you. Some of the features will likely require the vSphere Appliance (which costs money), but you can cross that bridge when you get there.

u/Sirotaca · 11 pointsr/speedrun

GameCube and Game Boy Player is the standard setup. The startup disc for the Game Boy Player can be a bit pricey these days, but you can softmod the GameCube and use the free Game Boy Interface software as an alternative.

From there, you can get an HDMI adapter and HDMI capture card (lots of those to choose from). Or if you need to save some money, a good S-Video capture device like the IO Data GV-USB2, an S-Video splitter, and a GameCube S-Video cable will still get you a pretty decent-looking capture. Either way, set it up in OBS and you're good to go.

I'd suggest also getting an SNES controller adapter. I find it way nicer than using the GBA as a controller. There's also one for Wii Classic Controllers if you prefer.

u/Arve · 1 pointr/audiophile

Well.

If you just want to grab MIDI, and you only have a keyboard with MIDI in the form of DIN connectors,, the simple, straightforward solution is to get something like the M-Audio MIDISport Uno - ($35 on Amazon) - it has one MIDI in and one out. While there certainly are cheaper noname/OEM interfaces out there, I'm going to recommend against them - whether they work at all is often down to chance more than anything else.

You could then go ahead and pick any DAC you like. That said, since you are planning on using both headphones and what I can only assume is studio monitors, an interface aimed at musicians is going to be more flexible - my Focusrite 8i6 has two separate pairs of line outs on the back, and I have the second pair connected to a dedicated headphone amp. In terms of audio quality: The DACs are very, very good, and certainly no worse than for instance an O2.

The headphone output is in many ways well-behaved: You can plug in a pair of sensitive IEMs and experience no noise or hiss, no matter how loud you want to go, but I'm not using it, because it has a somewhat significant output impedance, which doesn't jive well with all headphones, and my O2, which I got before the 8i6 is better anyway.

Even if the interface has inputs you don't require, I would still seriously consider it - ergonomically, interfaces like this are quite nice - you get a volume knob, so you don't have to reach for one in your OS of choice, you can send different mixes to headphones and monitors (put a click track or metronome on the headphones, and your main mix on the monitors). Should you have a friend come over who wants to jam with you, you have high-quality microphone and instrument inputs. Also: The 8i6 has a coax digital input, so if you have an android phone or iOS device that you want to relieve of DA conversion, you can use a cheap USB DAC / S/PDIF converter like a Fiio D3 and connect to the 8i6

TL;DR-ish: I'd just suck it up and get an audio interface for musicians. You will want a volume control for the monitors and when you consider the cost of DAC+headphone amp+pre-amp, you're going to end up paying very nearly the same price as an interface anyway, but the interface (whether it's Komplete, Focusrite or anything else) buys you future flexibility, and will keep it all in one box.

u/Flowermanvista · 2 pointsr/crtgaming

Before touching WinDAS, read this:

Apparently, the P1110 does have a service menu, and it's possible to adjust the G2 without goofing around with WinDAS. This text document that I downloaded tells the story:

>I fixed this problem on my P1110 last night in 2 minutes with NO need for hardware modifications or expensive Sony software. This may not work for all P1110's, but it sure cured the "too bright" problem for me.

>- Turn off monitor.

>- Hold down the center front panel "set" button. While holding this button down, swich on monitor. Continue holding the "set" button for 4 seconds, release and immediately push again.

>- A password prompt will appear on screen. Enter "7711" using the monitor front panel set and arrow keys.

>- A service mode screen will come up.

>- Maneuver to the "Gray Scale" menu.

>- Set "Brightness" to 50% and "Contrast" to 90% (these are the same controls as the normal menu).

>- Adjust the "G2" setting down to the optimal brightness. This setting controls the feedback loop for all three R-G-B electron guns in the CRT. I set mine to a value of 125, but your optimal value may differ.

>- Turn monitor off and on to exit service mode.

>- Fine tune brightness and contrast with normal controls.

>-That's it!

If this procedure does work for you, great! But if it doesn't, a serial cable will not help you - instead, you'll need something called a USB-TTL cable to connect to the monitor so you can use WinDAS to fix the G2 being through the roof.

u/bluaki · 6 pointsr/chromeos

Samsung's AC adapter supports 230V/50Hz, which means you can use a cheap plug adapter like this one to plug it into your UK sockets.

The charger you linked should sorta work, but not well. Because Chromebooks don't support QuickCharge 3.0, this charger will only supply 15W, which is half as much as the included 30W charger. USB-C Chromebooks support drawing as much power they can get. It won't keep up with your battery drain very well. On top of that, QuickCharge 3.0 over USB-C has problems, and one of the engineers who worked on this laptop, Benson Leung, warns against using a charger like this.

For best results, you should look for a charger that supports USB PD (aka USB Power Delivery) for at least ~29W. Anker's PowerPort+ 5 has a 45W one for £29 and you'll need a USB-C cable for it like this Anker one. Make sure the cable has USB-C on both ends, not just one. Any other charger that works with any of the USB-C Macbooks should work perfectly fine with the Chromebook Pro.

u/SirGrodus · 1 pointr/Twitch

You have a couple of options. These are the things you will absolutely need:

  1. A capture card - For PS2, I highly recommend this one. It is the best SD USB card for the price.

  2. The right AV cables. For a sharper image, use S-Video instead of the yellow composite video. For S-Video, you'll need a cable such as this one You don't have to use S-Video, but if you're going to stream, I recommend it.

  3. A powered splitter - This is to take the video from the console and pipe it to two different sources, your capture card and your TV. I have two of these splitters and they work wonderfully. You will only need one. It is a one-in, four-out splitter, so two of your outputs will remain unused unless you have another source you need the video to go to.

  4. AV cables to go from the outputs on your splitter to the TV and capture card. For the connection from the first output to your capture card, you can use a standard male-male S-Video cable. For the second output that goes to your TV, it just depends on what kind of TV you have. If you're playing PS2, I recommend using a higher-end CRT, in which case you can just use male-male composite cables. If you TV has a native S-Video port, then just get a second male-male S-Video cable.

  5. A PC that can handle streaming - I know this sounds vague, but you wouldn't believe how many people attempt to stream even SD consoles with a GV-USB2 on laptops pre-2010. When OBS or XSplit is open and streaming, your processor will be in use. If you do not have a decent processor, streaming will bog your PC down.

    That's about all I can think of. It's daunting at first when you're trying to imagine how everything would be set up, but I promise it's not as difficult as it sounds. If you have any other questions, just reply here and I'll do my best to answer.
u/panZ_ · 7 pointsr/mac

I've used quite a few different chargers with my MacBook and MacBook Pro. Yes, a 3A charger for a phone or Chromebook will work fine to charge it overnight or keep it topped up while you work under most scenarios. If you're running VMs, software builds or video editing, the Pro will eat more than 12W and you'll be at a minor deficit but it I'll get you those extra hours. I've also used the MacBook 30W charger (with a PlugBug for travel) with the Pro.

My favorite chargers now, though, are the Anker USB bricks with a type C port on them for travel and home. I use the 40W for travel. It only drives the 3A/12W on the C port but it is nice to have the other ports to charge a phone, headphones, watch and spare battery. Then I keep the 60W version at my nightstand. The USB port on that drives 30W (verified with the System Information app). I use their USB C cable as well. It doesn't do 3.0 transfer speeds but for charging it is perfectly fine and super durable.

u/SerdaJ · 4 pointsr/GooglePixel

Here are some accessories I use and love.

Cables:

[6' long USB A to C](http://www.Anker.com/ PowerLine+ USB-C to USB 3.0 cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including the new MacBook, ChromeBook Pixel, Nexus 5X, Nexus 6P, Nokia N1 Tablet, OnePlus 2 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNAAEJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SD1PybKFCP918)

[6' long USB C to C cable](http://www.Anker.com/ PowerLine+ C to C 2.0 cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including the new MacBook, ChromeBook Pixel, Nexus 5X, Nexus 6P, OnePlus 2 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNA0XCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mG1Pyb59S4SK0)

Charger:

[5 port (1 C and 4 A) charger](http://www.Anker.com/ USB Type-C 40W 5-Port USB Wall Charger, PowerPort 5 for iPhone 7 / 6s / Plus, iPad Pro / Air 2 / mini, Galaxy S7 / S6 / Edge / Plus, Note 5 / 4, LG, Nexus, HTC and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196JFWXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JH1PybWXH9ZMT)

That 5 port charger has been amazing. It is routinely use to charge a combination of my daughter's tablet, my Pixel, my wife's iPhone 7 Plus, my Xbox One Controller, mine and my wife's Kindles, and random devices from visitors with no problem. It has charged tablet and both phones simultaneously without any issue and at a very normal rate. I also use my OEM wall charger in the bedroom and the OEM Nexus 6P charger for travel.

Cases:

[Caseology Paralac](http://www.Google.com/ Pixel Case, Caseology [Parallax Series] Modern Slim Geometric Design [Black] [Textured Grip] for Google Pixel (2016) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4HN5XV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iL1Pyb58J56Y8). This is my work case ( I work 7 days on and 7 days off so I use it every other week) and feels and looks great but isn't as thin as I'd prefer. I generally prefer no case or just a dBrand skin.

This is my home/out and about case. [The Spigen Ultra Hybrid clear.](http://www.Spigen.com/ Ultra Hybrid Google Pixel Case with Air Cushion Technology and Hybrid Drop Protection for Google Pixel 2016 - Crystal Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX6CDHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6M1Pyb6KC420F)

Honorable mention if you want the thinnest case (note: This case won't fit over a dBrand skin.) [Niilken Nature series. ](http://www.Google.com/ Pixel Case, Nillkin Nature Series Clear Soft TPU Case Back Cover [Ultra Thin] [Slim Fit] for Google Pixel - Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8VGLYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DO1PybYSP36XD)

I also found these [Yootech glass screen protectors](http://www.Google.com/ Pixel Screen Protector [5.0"] [2-Pack] [Update Version],Yootech Google Pixel Tempered Glass Screen Protector for Google Pixel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MPY1RPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oP1Pyb5Y22PEZ) to be more than good enough but they cover screen only and not full front (supposedly due to the subtle curvature of the fines edge).


Of course you can never go wrong with a nice dBrand skin for that finishing touch.


Hope this helps.

u/whitedragon101 · 13 pointsr/oculus

I did a group test on USB3 extenders here is what I found out :

I tested using an Asus z170 Deluxe motherboard it has both Intel and AsMedia USB3 ports. I also used the Oculus recommended Inatek 7 port USB 3 Card.

——Worked——

Cables in this category mean the sensor detected as USB3 in Oculus devices and didn’t lose connection and provided solid tracking testing with the headset on, no matter what brand of USB3 port it was connected to (Intel, AsMedia,Inatek).

MutecPower 5m active USB3 extension cable £22

(picture seems to be wrong on amazon website, also note this cable seems to be sold as various brands but I'm pretty sure its all the same cable, it should look like this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BLPSU2W/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CableCreation 5m active USB3 extension cable £12

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Basics 1m Passive USB3 extension cable £4

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH13UFQ/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

——Sort of Worked——

Cable Matters 3m Passive USB3 extension cable £7

Detected as USB3 when using the InatekCard (which has extra power from a SATA power connector)

Detected as USB2 when using motherboard Intel or AsMedia USB3 ports

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MPMFKSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable Matters 5m Active USB3 extension cable £11

Only worked as USB 3 in one of the AsMedia ports and only when everything else was disconnected. Was USB2 or has an error in other AsMedia or Intel ports. Detected as USB3 in the Inatek Card and seemed ok testing in Oculus home loading area.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MPMFKSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


——Didn’t work——

Belfen Superspeed 5m active USB3 extension cable £7

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179EPUEK/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

detected as USB2 on every USB3 port including Inatek card

u/clamchoda · 2 pointsr/Vive

Things to do while your waiting.

u/battlestartriton · 1 pointr/oculus

I have my rift extended by 25 feet with no issues. (Room scale) I have a ASUS 1080 close to your ASUS 1070.

You must have active cables. Regular HDMI cables are horrible at carrying a signal that requires a certain level of power through it.

Don't use a DVI to HDMI dongle. You need to give the rift a HDMI native port. Move your monitors around or buy DisplayPort to hdmi cables for your monitors if needed.

My connection is as followed:

Video card -> active hdmi cable -> hdmi booster -> rift (rift plugs into HDMI booster)

Active USB MUST be plugged into motherboard or pci card USB and NOT USB hubs. I've had nothing but issues with a few hubs.

Here's my setup


HDMI:


Cable Matters Active 4K HDMI Cable with RedMere Technology (ARC and Ethernet Support) - 25 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2VREA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5w-LzbA9W4WRE

I also use an HDMI repeater which helps boost the signal

J-Tech Digital HDMI 2.0 Repeater Coupler Extender Signal Booster Support 1080P, 4Kx2K@60HZ HDCP EDID Bandwidth up to 18Gbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HQQHOB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_az-LzbVBBRY6A

Here's my USB cable

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 5 Meters/16.4 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Kz-LzbFSJ01KH


Hope that helps! I have ZERO latency issues and no disconnection problems. I play a lot of echo arena.

u/HaoBianTai · 2 pointsr/htc

Assuming you have a phone with a USB-C port (unlike OP), the answer is... probably.

Make sure you find a quality, thick cable. I bought a well reviewed Spigen one that worked great, but it was only 1m. You'll have to look more carefully for a longer cable, since the increase in length leads to an increase in amperage resistance, which results in slower charging.

That's why phones usually come with shorter cables in the box.

Edit: This one looks like it'd work great, seems to put out the maximum 2.4a that USB A is capable of.

u/Mirrormn · 1 pointr/answers

Sort of depends what you mean by "stream well", what content you're streaming, and how serious you are about the whole endeavor. Some top streamers that play modern competitive PC games use two computers, both with very high specs, because it gives them the best FPS to eke out a competitive edge. On the other hand, there are people who just buy a $30 capture card and use whatever old PC to stream themselves playing analog console games. They don't get famous, or a ton of money (usually), but they have a good time.

If you just want to stream for fun, it's very easy to get started. If you want to build an audience, a name for yourself, cashflow, etc., then it's much harder. Being a professional streamer is essentially running a business - you're an independent celebrity and video producer. But if you're not worried about all that, all you really need is a capture card (if you're playing games) or camera (if you're vlogging), and any reasonably modern computer.

u/weaponlordzero · 3 pointsr/SoundBlasterOfficial

Ok. I’m glad you asked. Ha ha.

First, let me mention that you can use a USB cable plugged into a power source then use male to male headphone cables to get the old analogue sound but that’s not the ideal way to use the G6. In fact, sometimes I’ve found that the Switch sound wasn’t strong enough for the G6 to pick up.

Ideally, you want to use the USB. It’s worth it.

Here is what I do / have done / continue to do.

1: You can get a cable that has USB-C on one end and micro USB on the other

Cable Matters USB C to Micro USB Cable (Micro USB to USB-C Cable) with Braided Jacket 3.3 Feet in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUBRX0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DRGwCbRSPDZ6D

The problem is that you run into an issue when you need a charge since the USB is taken with the G6.

I also found that if you power the G6 and the Switch by the same charger, you get a power whine so you can’t plug them both into a multi USB charger. It’s too loud to ignore so that also didn’t work.

2. Here is how I solved the problem of being able to use the G6 in handheld mode and still be able to power it.

I found a dongle that lets me power the Switch as well as the G6 while still allowing me to connect to to the G6 via USB.

If you use this thing, you can connect the G6 to the USB port, connect a power source with PD to the USB power input, and connect the built-in USB-C to the Switch.

Anker USB C Hub, 3-in-1 Type C Hub, 4K USB C to HDMI Adapter, USB 3.0, with 60W Power Delivery Charging Port for MacBook Pro 2016/2017/2018, ChromeBook, XPS, and More (Space Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DD8BLJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n4GwCbQ5671ZC

It ended up being a little annoying how short the attached cable was because it has to hang out of the Switch. I had to find a USB-C extension cable that allowed for power AND DATA transfer. Lots of power cables out there that won’t carry the data which is what the cable needs for the G6 and Switch to communicate. I ended up finding this cable and it worked beautifully:

Poyiccot USB Type C Extension Cable (3.3Ft/1M), High Speed Super Fast Gen 2 (10Gbps) USB 3.1 Type C Male to C Female Extension Charging & Sync Cable Cord For Nintendo Switch, Macbook & More (Straight) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3OHPD7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_26GwCb8VAGK0R

The setup I’ve finally settled in on to be able to charge the Switch, power the G6, and connect the G6 to the Switch by USB is this:

Power Supply with 60W PD —>
Anker adapter in USB C PD port
G6 plugged into the USB port with a micro USB cable
Switch plugged into the attached USB-C cable built into the Anker adapter (with the USB-C extension cord I bought)
Headphones plugged into the G6

It sounds complicated... and it was complicated to figure out... but now, I LOVE IT.

u/BCMM · 2 pointsr/linux

As explained elsewhere in the thread, USB ports do have a bandwidth limit - you can't just use hubs to run an infinite number of devices simultaneously off a single port. Think of how much video data needs to flow through that single cable at the base of the Christmas tree every second...

Anyway, in response to your edit: yes, running a cable from the motherboard header may indeed help. You need more actual USB host controllers, not just more sockets, and the unused headers on your motherboard may provide that. No point installing additional USB controllers on a PCIe slot if you aren't making full use of the controllers on the motherboard.

Now, I don't know the internal configuration of your motherboard; there might be whole controllers you aren't using and there might just be an on-board hub. lsusb -t can help with that, as it will show you if there are any totally empty buses.

In case you didn't know, the header on the motherboard will use a different type of connector, and you'll need an adaptor a bit like this, or this if you want to make it neat. I'm not necessarily recommending those specific products, just showing you what they should look like. Note the different styles of header connector for USB2 and USB3.

Each header should support two USB ports without using any hubs, so with your motherboard you can gain six extra ports beyond those on the rear IO panel.

However, is there any chance of you telling us what you are ultimately trying to achieve here? I'm getting the feeling there might be an easier way...

u/seattleliftbuddy · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I recently got my system up and running, and then proceeded to move. Several weeks later, I got my surround sound up and running and moved my equipment around.

Now I'm seated around 8' from the TV, and 10' from the PC. I am set on games that use controllers, but for mouse and keyboard games, I'm trying to figure out the best course of action.

My searching on this subreddit and online has indicated that around 10 feet is okay, and as long as I used powered USB, I should be fine.

So i'm trying to decide if I want to run two lengthy active USB cables: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1453851656&sr=1-1&keywords=active+usb+3

Or run one USB 3.0 hub: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-usb-hubs/

Any thoughts on what might be best?

u/Reallycute-Dragon · 3 pointsr/H3VR

No worries on the questions. There wasn't any lag I consciously noticed. I won't say zero input lag but no noticeable lag. I'll probably do some more testing tomorrow.

If you've tried pavlov native to the quest you likely noticed how blurry and hard to use gun sights were. Good news is link runs at a higher resolution and I had no problem using sights. I don't think it's native res much yet but still higher than what native quest games normally use.

I'm running a 4790k and had no issues with CPU usage, it was perfectly stable.

My biggest complaint with link is the oculus head sets have less buttons so you can't use twin stick H3VR controls I'm used to on the index. I'm not sure this is really an issue so much as a perk of the index controllers. The vive and all other head sets have the same limitation after all. That said you can still use arm swinging mode that a good number of users are fond of, or single stick mode so still a ton of movement options.

Some users of link talk about compression artifacts but to be honest I haven't been able to pick any out, image quality is great. I used this cable. I then use a small shorter cable for the last foot. This one is ziped tied onto the head set and the larger cable is removable. I can take a pic if you'd like.

As with all first time users of VR I recommend getting it from a place with easy returns like amazon. If your in the DC-Maryland area I'd offer you a demo.

If you've got any other questions ask away, it is a big purchase after all.

u/mav6771 · 1 pointr/Twitch

Hello!

These setups are using what's called a capture card. The way it works (in most simple cases) is a signal comes from a console, goes into a splitter, then one of the outputs goes to the TV, another to the capture card.

There are many many MANY video standards and when it comes to capture you're most likely either going to be working with composite, S-video, and HDMI. There's YPbPr and RGB too but you're most likely not going to use those.

For composite / svideo (pretty much all home consoles up from the 1990's (where most used RF) until the mid 2000's): I'd recommend the GV-USB2.

Sadly I don't do much HD capture so I don't have any resources for that.

So you get your console, split the signal into two using some of these (and something like this for s-video) have one output going to the TV for the yellow/s-video (video) and audio (red and white).

Here's a visual I made for a friend a few years ago, very similar.

Then there's the capture software, sadly I really can't go to in depth in this small reddit post. Some people like doing all the image processing necessary right in OBS, some people (like me) use amarec because it allows better control over the image.

Sorry this is rushed, can't really write too much right now. I found this video which seems to have good information.

My capture set up is huge now (multiple consoles modded for better video, matrix switches, component (not RGB because SCART is mad expensive) setups) but I'm just gave the bare essentials for how I started streaming on my consoles.

Hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions

u/P1kas · 1 pointr/SSBM

I can't vouch for the quality of that particular capture card, but I do know that the one many speedrunners currently recommend is the GV-USB2:

http://www.amazon.com/DATA-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y

Very easy to set up, and the recording quality is good.

Here is some S-Video footage I've captured from my own setup, resized to the correct aspect ratio:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRRJ3HTr7kM

Keep in mind the quality is likely slightly less than the originals, because I've had to re-encode once to gain the correct aspect ratio, and because youtube may implement additional compression.

I could upload a video that's only been encoded once(For resize purposes) from a lossless file, but only if there's interest. Quality would be slightly higher.

u/Megatf · 1 pointr/Twitch

I actually used the USB cable that was attached to my Razer Blackwidow Keyboard LOL, I’m pretty sure it was USB 2.0 and it worked totally fine. I could not seem to find 3.0 options when I was searching to purchase one a few days ago so I ordered a 2.0 one from Amazon. The keyboard cable was the only USB to Mini-B cable I had in the house.

This is the best one I could find (and surely better than my keyboard cable which worked without issue):

AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to Mini-B Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11N5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t9j5CbWWYGVSN

u/eviljolly · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

You need an A-Male to Mini-B USB cable like this.

As far as sims, here's ones I've personally tried, in order from favorite to least favorite.


DRL - Free

Velocidrone - Free trial

FPV Freerider/FPV Freerider Recharged - Think there's a free trial, but it's like $10-15

Liftoff - $14

There's plenty others. Hotprops looks nice, but I wasn't able to get my Taranis working with it. I haven't had a lot of time with Velocidrone, but it could easily take my #1 spot since it incorporates Betaflight's logic. There's also several other non-free sims that I haven't had a chance to try. If anyone else has input, feel free to continue the thread.

u/NDubbaYa · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Seems kinda janky. Some games run well and uh some really do not lol

Not faulting anything since well AMD isn't supported to begin with, and well it's a beta that JUST came out, but I'm hoping that it gets ironed out as the beta goes along. Really see the potential and it could be a great thing once it all gets sorted out.

Oh I should probably list specs? We're all probably running around trying to figure out exactly what cable to get so figured it'd help posting em.


GPU: PowerColor Red Dragon RX 5700

CPU: Ryzen 2600 OC'd to 4.1

Cable: JOTO USB Type C Cable Extra Long 10ft, USB-C 3.1 Type-C to USB 3.0 Type A Charging Data Cable [Heavy Duty Nylon Braided] for iPad Pro 12.9/11 Galaxy S10 S9 Note 10+ 10 9 Tab S4 Nintendo Switch (Black)

Extender (which is just for extra length both cables work): CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT), USB 3.0 Extender Male to Female Cord with Signal Booster Compatible with Oculus Rift, Xbox, PS4, USB Printer etc, Black

u/StrawberrySpeedruns · 8 pointsr/speedrun

For anything with the traditional red, yellow and white plugs, this thing here is king. I-o DATA USB connection video capture GV-USB2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00428BF1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1bNMzb9C8YEM9

You will need this, a splitter, and two extra sets of cables (look in the "frequently purchased together" section below). Plug the console into the splitter, then run the extra cables from the splitter to your tv/monitor and to the capture card. The capture card is USB, just plug it in to your computer.

All the software instructions will be in Japanese, but just Google the name of the product and you will find some very easy to use installation guides.

From there, just use your choice of recording or streaming software! I'm an xsplit guy, but OBS is popular because it's totally free.

EDIT: Also, if you're going to run Mario 64 specifically, make sure you have the proper version of the game! I'm fairly sure it's primarily played in Japanese, and I'm not sure if there are glitches missing from the US release.

u/p_pal2000 · 2 pointsr/SonyXperia

I assume you're referring to the USB Type-C connector. I can imagine that if your last phone was a few years old that this is new, but it's been around for quite a while. There are tons of places online to order these cables from.

I always recommend Anker branded cables, they have been giving me the most consistent and high quality experience for a while now.

I order them from Amazon, and they come in different lengths. You said you'd like a longer cable, so here are the 6 ft cables and 10 ft cables (respectively) that I myself use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E9W8KYC/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1518313196&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=anker+usb+c+cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MZIPYPY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518313196&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=anker+usb+c+cable&psc=1

Hopefully this helps, if you have any questions I'd be glad to answer them.

u/Raider1284 · 1 pointr/oneplussupport

has a few "bubbles" in it? what does that mean?

OP wouldnt cover the cables, especially since you bought it secondhand, but good usb cables are pretty cheap. A cable like this would work great for your phone: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01E9W8KYC/

u/Souloni · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I've already purchased several USB-C cables and power bricks in anticipation for the Switch. Went Anker for their manufacturing quality, so it wasn't the cheapest, but the fact that it will be more common in the coming years made me feel less skittish about investing in it.

I hate the fact that my 3DS is so difficult to charge, and I just know that solving that issue will greatly improve my love for the consoles.

 


In case anyone is interested, I purchased this charger as it is 2.4 amps per port, which is close to what the Switch spec is. Essentially it is enough to charge the console in a timely fashion in a room away from the dock.
I purchased this cable since flexibility is more important when gaming plugged in versus the external protection that braiding provides.

u/Dokterrock · 1 pointr/audio

Yes, absolutely get a MIDI to USB cable. These work great: http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Midisport-Uno-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00007JRBM

Then use one of the pianos in Garageband - the best part is that if you fluff a few notes, you can fix them in the piano roll in Garageband - super easy!

u/TheDarkSwordsman · 2 pointsr/linux4noobs

I dual boot Ubuntu 18.04 with Windows 10 and have an Oculus Rift.

I really just use Windows for gaming, and it takes make a minute to get over there. I mean, to me it's not a huge hassle.

If I were you, if it's not too out of the ordinary for you to ask, ask his thoughts on dual booting and using a Windows 10 for gaming. If he says it's not a bad idea, and he REALLY wants the headset, I would highly suggest getting it. Worse comes to worst, if he doesn't want it before he opens it, you can simply refund it and get another gift.

I recommend getting the rift with a third sensor, as well as an HDMI extender and USB 3 Active cable. It'll run up your costs to about $530-$550 after tax, but the third sensor is essential if you want the tracking to work well.

Edit: This is the active cable I got that I have not tested yet. I will return with a response, just remind me if I don't have it up by tomorrow afternoon.

And this HDMI female to female looks good paired with this HDMI cable.

If you have any other questions just let me know. I'll try to help out best I can.

u/welshman1971 · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

This is the cable I just bought while I'm waiting for the official to be released.
It's an A to C 3m cable

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D7NNJ61?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

I paired it with this 90° adapter so it's not sticking out of the headset sideways.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078YRKTKM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

The only difference between this cable and a C to C besides the connection lol .. is the fact that the USB A port can't supply as much power as the USB C can.

The one I bought can supply a max of 1.5A where the other can supply 3A which is what the quest mains plug supplies .. basically means the 1.5A cable will extend the battery life but won't supply enough to keep it charged .

Also C to C cables start to ramp up in price once you hit 2m for a good quality one and I didn't want to spend a huge amount if I'm getting the official one later.

Here is a 1.8m C to C cable but I thought that was a little too short , anything after that size either didn't charge or was costly.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D7RWPWF/?coliid=I17IZSS4765L7&colid=10E26L74TZCMS&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Hope that at least helps you a little 😁

u/crazy_goat · 3 pointsr/oculus

Order some wall mounts (generic tripod thread - tons of amazon) - a USB 3.0 Extension cable for each sensor (5M Cable Matters active model for $16 works great) and you'll be good. This will allow you to mount your two sensors in opposing corners for Roomscale tracking - provided your room is of adequate size.

You can extend the rift's own cable(s) with a 6ft HDMI extension cable, and 6ft passive USB 3.0 extension cable. Anything beyond that will likely give you problems. Get some velcro straps to tie both of those extensions together and it'll double as a breakaway cable were you to tug on it too hard.

Maybe consider grabbing an add-in PCI-E USB 3.0 card. I ordered this Startech.com USB 3.1 card for $35 because USB 3.1 controllers can handle 10Gbps of throughput, which theoretically means both of these ports should be able to run at the full 5Gbps 3.0 mode, so it could handle both sensors with ease.The amazon reviews have some Rift users implying it works great.

Also - you'll get Robo Recall for free, it's a great action game to get started in. It'll set the bar pretty high for you - but it's a very comfortable (and often intense!) experience.

u/sexysausage · 2 pointsr/oculus

I have three sensors now. Only one has an extension ( and I didn't use the usb2.0 cable provided by oculus, instead I used the one I bought for my two sensor experimental setup, that's an active usb3.0 )

this one: CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black


  • the single usb 3.1 is connected to a sensor with a 16ft usb3.0 active cable extension. ( the one I linked )

    • . the four usb 3.0 from top to bottom as follows:

  • top left keyboard
  • top right mouse

  • bottom left is the Rift headset usb 3.0

  • bottom right is a sensor usb 3.0 without extension
    • front panel two usb 3.0

      left usb 3.0 is a sensor without extension
  • right usb 3.0 is free and unused.


    I have a 650w power suply, a i7 processor and a 1080ti, and 16 gig or ram, dunno if it makes any difference
u/VR_Bummser · 8 pointsr/OculusQuest

For everyone in Germany. I can confirm these two cables work flawlessly, giving together 6.8 meters of freedom.

u/ExplodingFist · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest

My existing CV1 setup already had wiring for 4 sensors, 3 of which required active extension, so I tapped into the far one that went across the ceiling with the 10 foot USB-C Anker 3.0 cable recommended by Oculus, and it works flawlessly.

The visuals were excellent. For me this looks better than the Rift S (personally, since I have an IPD of 59, along with the beautiful OLED displays this has). I didn't notice any artifacts or compression when playing, but I do think this thing is sensitive to having a very good USB port, so results may vary.

The lower refresh rate is definitely noticeable compared to the CV1 and I played worse than usual in beat saber (on expert). The tracking is also obviously more limited than the CV1 with more than 2 sensors (which this would beat), especially in games like Echo VR, but I also had some issues with the S in that game when I tried it. This is comparing to a perfect 4 sensor setup with a $120 quad channel USB card, so it's not exactly fair.

You can't beat the simplicity this provides for just getting into PCVR.

Here is the link the the extension cable. It's cheaper than it was back when I got them for my sensors: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Booster-Compatible/dp/B0179MXKU8

u/yellowspacealien · 1 pointr/oculus

Been playing with 2 sensor 360 tracking on the 2m x 1.5m and has been working good enough for me. Tracking is not perfect obviously as there is a "seam" that will cause a "shift" on the touch controller potentially due to what seems to be a software calibration type of issue. Not a game breaker for me as you just have to be aware of it and adjust accordingly so I am not in between it like when I play Arizona Sunshine and aiming the gun.

My setup uses the 2 support rods diagonally from each with the sensors attach to clamps and up about 6 feet high at about 45 degree angle downward linked to active USB3.0 extension cable. I think your mileage will vary how you setup but here's the list of the setup:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CRDD6Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E5M39AW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also you should use Desk Scene to make sure the sensors truly cover your play space:
https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/5gy2my/desk_scene_multisensor_update_check_your_cameras/

u/FabbrizioCalamitous · 3 pointsr/speedrun

Since you say you're not tech savvy, I'm gonna assume you'd rather not hard-mod your N64 to output a component (480p) signal. Also, N64's output resolution is remarkably low so it doesn't take much to capture good looking N64 gameplay.

What you probably want is an S-video cable (this is the kind I use). I know it says for gamecube, but video cables for gamecube, n64 and snes are universally interchangeable, so you're good.

For capture, the best bang for your buck is gv-usb2. For streaming a composite or s-video signal it's pretty much the universal standard.

Hope this helped.

u/alexj9626 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Oh man, i had the same question for weeks. I decided to buy the Google Pixel charger and with no doubt in my mind is the absolutely best charger for the Switch. Get it!.

The other "problem" was the USB C cable. I ordered 2, one from Amazon Basics and one from Anker. Those are the best. I really really like the Amazon Basics cable, is the one im using with my Google Pixel. The Anker cable has better quality (well, not really. Is just sturdier) but is double the cost (I bought it so i can have one to use with my Power Bank). If you only need it for the Pixel then get the Amazon Basics cable.

Hope that helps!

u/Elmer-Eugene · 2 pointsr/TIdaL

I already said this on another post, BUT if you ask me, for the money and build quality you can't beat Schiit Audio.

Pick up a MAGNI "HEADPHONE AMP AND PREAMP" for $99, a MODI "DAC" for $99 - $249 for the multibit version. So between $198-and $348 you can have an outstanding smi-portable DAC and Headphone/Preamp.

You will need a set of RCA cables to connect the DAC to the Headphone amp. As for connecting your smartphone you will need this USB 2.0 OTG Cable On The Go Adapter and then you will then need to connect that to a USB A-B Cable. Plug the "B" end of the USB A-B cable into the Dac. Additionally you could have skipped the DAC altogether and ran a RCA-to-3.5 cable right into the back of the headphone amp. But if you are aiming to take advantage of the HiFi/master audio I would recommend you use the DAC method. Connecting your laptop is just as easy and you can just run the USB A-B cable into the DAC. Or, if your computer has an optical audio output you could use a Toslink cable to connect direct into the DAC.

your all set man. get after it.

u/nosurferato · 1 pointr/modular

>Thank you for the incredibly informative reply! I've been reading up on this a bit but I'm still unsure: what's the difference in quality, latency, and software/hardware compatibility between tradition '5-din' MIDI, MIDI to USB / USB-MIDI and USB (where either both sides are USB or like [this](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=asc_df_B00NH11KIK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6368450382305919329&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033574&hvtargid=pla-181858139331&psc=1)? For example, my digital piano has a 5 pin MIDI 'DIN', is this different in any way (software/hardware compatibility, quality etc) from the example cable provided in the link? I hear all kinds of different opinions on the matter. And it's extra confusing to me because my computer doesn't have a MIDI in port, so it's going to have to get changed into USB anyway. I mean maybe the desktop has top has MIDI in, but I'm not even sure if there's advantages there.
>
>At any rate, I think I've boiled it down to either the Keystep or Microbrute. I'm going to use softsynths with either, so I'm not sure if the Keystep has any advantages here other than being cheaper.
>
>Sorry for the rant and thanks for the help so far, it's been very helpful.

u/FolkSong · 1 pointr/virtualreality

Thanks. FYI I think this is the officially recommended one:

https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-PowerLine-Pull-up-Resistor-Samsung/dp/B01MZIPYPY/ref=sr_1_3

Although your braided one might be a little nicer for flexibility. Also FYI, active extensions are working so you could probably use one of those to set up your ceiling suspension. You might need to tape the two cables together to make sure they don't come unplugged.

u/cavortingwebeasties · 1 pointr/oculus

I had bad luck with the hdmi cable/repeater I bought (Shensu repeater Monoprice cable, recommended here but I think the cable is bad in my case so maybe it works..) for this however there is a breakout box for Vive that works with great Rift for the HMD. It's an active repeater (a wallwart powers it) for usb and hdmi so it works with normal cables. It's called 'Vive Link Box'.

I bought a Vive Link from this ebay seller and this is the psu I got for it since it doesn't come with one. You can use regular cables for this connection since the box is active.

For sensors, these active USB3 cables someone here recommended worked for me, meaning did not revert to usb2.0 once plugged in with a sensor which I had happen with other recommended cables.

r9 290, Asrock Z77/3570k

u/bushmaster2000 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Ceiling height is best as it'll give the tracking cone that comes out of the sensor maximum size before it hits you. But plenty of people use them on their desk as well, not how i'd recommend doing it but it works.

You should use an active usb extension for best results. These are the ones I use on my sensors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

But there's another issue which is USB controller bandwidth. Oculus recommends plugging your first 2 sensors and HMD into USB3, and plug your 3rd sensor into USB2 so its on a different USB controller as to prevent USB bandwidth saturation.

u/jsdeprey · 2 pointsr/oculus

The active extender I have does not require a wall wart at all, they use the USB power on the cable to basically add another hub to regen power on the line back. Some do have the option to plug in a wall wart, but the one I have and many I see on Amazon do not need a wall wart at all.


This one says it does not need the power adapter unless you are connecting multiple of these cables together I guess, and your PC supplies enough power to the extender its self.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484412332&sr=8-1&keywords=active%2Busb%2Bextender&th=1

I lot of the ones over 20' seem to be USB 2.0 which should still work. It may be best to have the wall wart so you know the camera is getting good power though, maybe get one that allows you to connect the wall wart optionally and see how it does without it?

I currently am using a 16' USB 3.0 cable that seemed to power my camera fine.

u/omair94 · 2 pointsr/AppleWhatShouldIBuy

I bought my sister one of these hubs last year for her 12" MacBook. It has power, USB A, and HDMI. No issues at all so far. I did a review of it here.

I have a few of their other products as well that I use with my Nexus 6P, and all of them haven't been an issue. This includes their braided USB A to C cables that i really like and their USB C male to female USB A adapters. All three of these feel high quality and made with aluminium.

Besides that, Anker had an issue with only one of their cables, and they were pretty quick and good about recalling it, so I would still trust their cables, which are generally pretty good quality. I also use monoprice cables and they are great. Cable Matters has a braided Male Micro USB to Male USB C cable that I personally don't own, but I've seen recommend on Reddit several times.

I haven't ever used Thunderbolt 3, so i don't have any recommendations for that.

u/Fellbobbl · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

I found this guy on youtube - Awesome set up - he has links in the disciption and I can confirm it works for me https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMTQvxH6qVg

I bougth the following things (German Amazon) and it works a charm:

C2G DisplayPort F/F Adapter (DisplayPort Cable DisplayPort female/female, black, 17 ghttps://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00IGSBFJI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

UGREEN USB Extension Cable Active 3.0 USB Extension Cable Super Speed Cable Male A to Female A with Signal Amplifier Repeater Black 10mhttps://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

YIWENTEC Fibre 8K 4K DisplayPort Cable DP 1.4 8K @ 60Hz 4K @ 144Hz High Speed 32.4 Gbps Optical Fiber Slim and Flexible DP to DP Cable 10 mhttps://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07S7Z7SR5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1- Be careful it is a one way cable ! I conected it wrong the first time at thougth it would not work :D Shame on me

u/jcozac · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

Double reply so you get a notification about this.

Using an old car charger (2.4A) with a proper USB-A -> USB-C 3.0 cable (this one https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) charged my phone from 60% to 100% in roughly 1 hour. The phone never said "charging rapidly" either, so you're not getting Power Delivery with that. I am buying a proper USB-C car charger later this week, I can DM you with an update on that.

Edit: Adding this as well in case someone else is looking for this info, but this what I dm'd OP:

Alright so I bought this cable: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6G0CTQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this car charger https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079MWXSS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They both work great, fast charging and everything.

For what it's worth, this is also a good power bank: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079Z4RHZZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/drrenhoek · 5 pointsr/oculus

Few useful links to get you started.

Oculus Rift Room Scale Setup Guide

List of recommended cable extensions

I'm using 3 Sensor setup in L configurations with CableCreation CD0034 and Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card. My sensors are mounted about 10 inches and 40 degrees away from the ceiling. Perfect tracking in the play area. Good tracking out of usual play area, when in bed playing seated games in view of only two sensors which are 12 to 15 feet away.

u/FriendCalledFive · 43 pointsr/OculusQuest

Is working great with this Amazon Basics 3m cable. Am really impressed by the quality of Link!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D7NNJ61

Update: I tried adding a 1m USB3 extension cable into the mix and that didn't work.

Update to my update, I tried it with an active 5m extention cable and it worked. It isn't on Amazon UK any more, but the description was:
CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black

u/_Louis__ · 2 pointsr/Gamecube

It'd probably be cheaper to just buy a capture card and play it off Amarec on your computer, if you don't have a TV. Then you'll have a larger screen to play on!

GameCubes are like $25, cables should be $5 each, controllers are $20. A good first party memory card is like $10.

This is the capture card I use. If you do this I'd suggest an s-video cable because the picture quality is worth it.

u/myserval · 2 pointsr/Twitch

A great way to do it would to be to use an old capture device like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00428BF1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IpABCb992NSQJ

It has essentially no lag so you could play it in your streaming software, but if you really wanna get down and dirty with some old games, you could get a video splitter along with that and plug it into an old monitor, haha, but I imagine you won't be going pro neccicarily with a cheap sponegbob plug and play game - that being said, that's a rad niche you've got there, sounds like it'd be a really fun time!

u/cfmat · 1 pointr/nes

Ok, the absolute cheapest way to record gameplay is probably buying a used DVD recorder from a thrift shop. You can get them nowadays for $5-$10 (especially look for DVD recorders that also have a VCR built in, they often get priced even lower for some reason). Then you'll need some blank DVD-Rs, which are like 10 cents a piece in a spindle. Basically, what you do is take your output from your AV switch into the DVD recorder, then the recorder outputs to TV. Record to discs then rip the discs on a computer when you have the footage you want. This ripped DVD video can then be used in most video editing programs, or just straight put online, etc. That's actually how the large majority of AVGN episodes got gameplay footage, incidentally.

The downside is having to deal with discs and the extra time involved in ripping, you also can't livestream with this setup. It can be nice to have the burned DVD as a backup though.

Second cheapish option, use a USB capture card to your PC and composite splitters. Basically, you buy a good USB capture card for about $30: I-o DATA USB connection video capture GV-USB2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00428BF1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WycSzb8SNAZ9C

There is a cheaper device, like $10 to $15, called EZ Cap, but the more expensive one has much better quality.

Then you buy AV splitters for under $10 like these: Cable Matters 5-Pack, Gold Plated RCA Split Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0141KPHR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ECcSzbXKPBG3B

Though annoyingly you'll need 6 of those little things, not 5. You'll also need two extra sets of those red/yellow RCA cables, possibly one very long one depending on where your computer is located.

Essentially, you plug the output from your switch into those little splitters, then run one RCA cord out of them to the TV, and the other to the capture device plugged into your computer. Then while you play on the TV, you can record on your computer.

Downside of this method, splitting the cable can result in a bit dimmer video signal, depending on how your TV handles it. Also, extra cable has to be dealt with, and if you don't have a computer nearby may be impossible.

Hope that makes sense. It's a bit of a pain, but not crazy expensive at least.

u/FuriouslyFurious007 · 1 pointr/oculus

I got this one and it works perfectly. Granted, it's not 10 meter long like you wanted.

CableCreation (Long 16FT) Super Speed Active USB 3.0 Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB Male to Female Repeater Cable with Signal Booster for Oculu https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_mqbxsQthwm446

u/maxcovergold · 2 pointsr/oculus

having tried many with issues, Ugreen's have been the best. Really recommend them. If want all USB 3.0 then make sure to get an active cable past 5m's.

I recently added the 10m active variant and I was happy to see it have 0 issues, no sensor warnings or dropping to usb 2 at all:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS

u/Mynam3isnathan · 1 pointr/battlestations

If you're looking for a good way to connect your keyboard to your computer, I would look at the MAUDIO Uno interface. :)

I use it personally with my digital piano in FL Studio, works really good. Just can't forget about the ASIO drivers so you can actually play the thing without an insane amount of input latency. :)

http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Midisport-Uno-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00007JRBM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408035525&sr=8-1&keywords=maudio+uno

u/HaTaX · 2 pointsr/nintendo

Honestly I'd say look for a 1TB drive... I've purchased a lot of games (I think I've got maybe one free page on my menu before folders came out), and I'm no where close to filling my 1TB drive. After installing Xenoblade Chronicles X I dipped under 700GB free for the first time, so I'm sure I'll be fine with any other games that come out having space.

I've got an older Toshiba USB drive, and I'm using a Y-Cable to get power to it when I tote it around. Otherwise I've got it plugged into a USB hub so I've got free room in the back for my USB NIC, using a hub works just fine and I've not noticed any issues with it. (Also gives me something to have the gamecube adapter plugged into and tucked away easily)

Here's a cheap 1TB drive from Amazon (Any other drive you can find should work fine too) :
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R4O9M4A

And the Y-cable needed for power with no USB hub:
http://www.amazon.com/Insten-Micro-B-USB-Cable-Black/dp/B005M0ICG2

u/VirtualRealityOasis · 27 pointsr/oculus

If you don't want to watch the video that's cool, here's a summary;

Over the last few months I've been testing various cables for use with my four sensor setup. What I quickly discovered was that not all cables are created equal in the eyes of the Oculus Rift!

The Rift and Sensors can be a bit stubborn when it comes to cables. Some work intermitantly, some report USB 3.0 as USB 2.0, some give audio issues when using with the Rift and some just point blank refused to work.

I think I've finally nailed down the best cables which I've personally tested and would recommend to use with your Rift.

Due to the summer sale I know we have an influx of new Rift users so hopefully this guide helps.

Here's the links where you can buy these cables for yourself;

Cable Matters USB 3.0 3M /10FT Extension Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_3?th=1

US - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503739950&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+matters+superspeed+usb+3.0

KabelDirekt 2m / 6FT HDMI Extension Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013ICN59Y/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_2

US - https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Extension-Cable-1080p-Ethernet/dp/B012ASNHIG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740842&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=kabeldirekt+2m+extension

DVI to HDMI Adapter:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_1

US - https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-2-Pack-Gold-Plated-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740883&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=DVI+to+HDMI+adapter&psc=1

CableCreation 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Fine For Sensors BUT Causes Audio Issues When Using With Rift):

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740956&sr=8-7&keywords=cable+creations+usb+3.0

US - https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740977&sr=8-1&keywords=cablecreation+usb+3.0

UGREEN 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Additional Power Micro USB Port isn't required when using the Rift. Do not use this with the Rift as may cause damage)

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Extension-Amplifier-PlayStation-loudspeakers/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741031&sr=8-2&keywords=ugreen+oculus+cable

US - https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Extension-Repeater-Amplifier-Superspeed/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741078&sr=8-5&keywords=ugreen%2Busb%2B3.0%2Bextension&th=1

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 4.6M / 15FT Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8TOTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

US - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Rated-Wall-Installation-Cable/dp/B014I8TOTC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741177&sr=8-2&keywords=AmazonBasics+High-Speed+HDMI+CL3+Cable

Mini HDMI Repeater Extender:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Repeater-Extender-130FT-Support-Switch/dp/B01MDS8DJH/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740907&sr=1-11&keywords=hdmi+repeater

US - https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Amplifier-Extender-Transmission/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740927&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+repeater

Hope this helps :)

u/dwarrior · 2 pointsr/oculus

Depending on your computer placement you might need a usb3 extension cable for one of your sensors, your 3rd sensor you purchased comes with one but I needed a second one for my other sensor due to placments. This is also option but I grabbed a 10ft HDMI and 10FT usb3 extension cable fro my headset as well to help give me better range with more slack. Also some camera mounts for mounting your sensors on the walls helps alot.

For referance these are what I ordered, im in Canada so these are all Canadian links so you may need to find your local equivalent

10ft USB 3 extension cables (I use two of them, one to extend a sensor and oen for my hmd)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft HDMI extension for my hmd
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wall mounts for my sensors
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B072KGHX8X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And because I had a lack of proper USB 3 ports on my computer I needed a PCI to usb 3 expansion card
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ME7454O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/erragodofmayhem · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sounds like the drive isn't always getting enough power (USB 2 power < USB 3 power) - because compatibility issues between the 2 basically shouldn't happen unless the device has extra drivers it needs.

I haven't read you mention the size of the passport, but I see this regularly with any external drive over 1TB.

Sometimes, the issue is the USB cable itself, not passing on the power as efficiently as before. Often the drive will still seem to start up and spin, but simply doesn't get all the juice it needs to "boot up" all the way.

When a drive isn't getting enough power, a common occurrence is a soft clicking sound because the plates' headers keep alternating between "Read mode" and "idle mode".

Possible solutions:

  • Replace the USB cable. If you only have "cheap ones", try buying a higher quality name brand cable. This might give the drive enough power over USB 2

  • Ezramore made a good suggestion with the USB Y cable, which lets you plug in 2 USB's into the computer for some extra power. I would not suggest trying to make one yourself, you'll easily run into the same "lack of power" issue (unless you're just really good with wiring)

  • It could be the contacts of the enclosure not passing the power through properly (when it's on an underpowered USB 2 port) - You could consider removing the bare drive from the passport enclosure and installing it into an empty enclosure. At this point you could also consider getting an enclosure with its own PSU since it might be the drive itself trying to pull too much power
u/EmEss463 · 1 pointr/oculus

I also bought a 3m amazon basics USB A 3.01 - C cable (UK), and it seems to work pretty well from half an hour in Vader Immortal last night. The only issue I came across was crackly sound sometimes when using force powers. And the 3D audio from the headset speakers seemed... off...

I'm not sure if those audio issues are down to the cable or something software/PC hardware side. Has anyone else had a similar issue?

Everything else seemed great though :)

u/Psycold · 1 pointr/Vive

Yep. Sounds like the hub is being overloaded. I don't use a USB hub at all but I do use a good quality extension cable, this one specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I plug one end directly into a USB 2.0 port on my PC and plug the breakout box into the other end. I use this HDMI cable going from my video card to the back of the breakout box:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNFLI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Must be active like this cable)

Zero issues with this setup and I have my Vive connected from my office computer to my living room.

u/esip · 3 pointsr/nexus5x

I'm pretty happy with this one: http://www.amazon.com/iOrange-E-Braided-Reversible-Connector-ChromeBook/dp/B010VFFU1W

I'm pretty sure it's Benson approved.

I have no idea what's going with all the links in this thread. If you want this cable just search: iorange USB c

u/Trankonia · 1 pointr/SteamVR

Do you get sparkles in dark scenes as a result of the cable extensions? I bought a similar 25 foot optical cable and the 3.0 Active USB cable and most everything works fine except the sparkles and the Index camera. The camera looks distorted like it has a black fabric screen in front of the lenses. The cameras tests ok using WebCamTest. Have you had any other oddities that you attribute to extending the Index with your cables.

By the way, thanks for the post as it pointed me in the right direction for allowing my system to be in a different room from the playspace.

The optic cable I used was: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X4W61YP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The USB Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/phero1190 · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

I have a few of these cables and they're fantastic. They have a little spring around the cable where it meets the usb part to help prevent fraying. Great quality cable in my opinion and they support fast charging and fast data transfer.

https://www.amazon.com/Veckle-Braided-Aluminum-Connector-Nintendo/dp/B010VFFU1W

u/Holybananas666 · 2 pointsr/edrums

Hey man, not a problem at all.


You'll need a printer cable to connect your Alesis module to your Macbook via MIDI interface.

Once connected, open Garageband and it'll ask you to choose a template, one of which is drums. Select that and it'll open up a new window. You might get a notification in top right corner as well which says "1 midi input detected" which'll prove that Garageband has successfully recognized the kit.

Now, you can select different kits from a panel on the left side and you'll hear the voice on your laptop speakers once you hit on the kit. You can output it to headphone/speaker via your laptop AUX port.

Feel free to DM me if you face any problem. Good luck dude.

u/Phantaminum · 2 pointsr/headphones

Depends on what your budget is. I'd suggest, within your budget, a Modi Multibit + Magni Uber and you'll have yourself equipment that can power future headphones. If not, you can't go wrong with a Modi 2 + Magni 2 Uber and it's one of the best bang for your buck stack. It'll be a nice improvement over your motherboard's sound card which can carry noise from your video card/power supply/fans.

You'll have to purchase a USB A to B cable as well as as an RCA male to male cable.

USB A to B I purchased:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11KIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RCA Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1717K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can also purchase the 6" PYST cable from Schiit for $20. -_-

u/Sylant · 2 pointsr/n64

Buy a gv-usb2 , #1 recommended capture device for N64 speedrunners( also great for converting VCR, great for SNES, havnt tried GC yet with it, but others say its good for it too), only problem, all in Japanese. But there are plenty of English tutorials and installation is simple. You can capture directly in OBS or use the included software capture window. Hope that helps.

u/DarKbaldness · 2 pointsr/oculus

Ah a good question. I was using the included extended (2.0) but switched to using 2x CableCreation USB 3 extension cables

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.IM6BbZDFMMWN


If there are any specific tests or benchmarks you’d like me to run I am open to help :)

u/apb91781 · 1 pointr/playrust

Current VR list I have on Steam

https://i.imgur.com/5iUid4bl.png

Zero Caliber is quite a bit of fun but lacking in the map department. But I don't know of any other game where you can grab one of your teammates and ride them into battle firing an AK-47 over their head using them as a meat-shield.

B&S is basically VR hitbox porn but they have been pushing out the updates and it gets cooler every time. (Moddable)Gorn is good if you are just looking to vent frustration (Also Moddable)A-Tech WAS good... But it was basically abandoned for nearly a year because PlayStation offered them "F*ck you money" to make a PSVR version.

Killing floor and Arizona Sunshine are both fun in their own respects but both feel a bit too short with not a lot of replayability.

The Forest isn't too horrible for being a VR port and hiding in a cabin in the middle of the night as cannibals surround you is freaky as all hell.

​

Games I have on Oculus Launcher

House of the Dying Sun is actually quite a bit fun. It's seated with a controller.

KingSpray Graffiti is relaxing if you like doing any kind of artwork. Even bad artwork.

From other suns is fun as well but also short, same with Gunheart

Echo VR is motion-sickness simulator 2019 but still quite a bit of fun when you can actually find a match.

RoboRecall is basically Oculus' flagship game so it's more built to show off the Oculus vs. Repeatable gameplay.

​

These are the games I've pretty much played all the way through at one time or another.

As for my setup, Using a Oculus Rift CV1 with 3 sensors hooked into my laptop, one via direct USB the other two plugged into a j5Create 3 port powered USB hub and those two are the rear and the right corner of my room connected to the hub and the sensors with this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Surprisingly this actually works. Also surprising is that all sensors register as USB 3.0 and run fine with no input lag.

u/red_stripe05 · 1 pointr/AndroidAuto

I know you don't think it could possibly be the cord, but I have a strong suspicion you should just try a new USB cord from Amazon. Get something high quality and super short. Mine constantly disconnected like the way you described and swapping out the cord for this one fixed that issue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6F3WHG. I have a whole host of other issues with Android Auto, but I think those could be my 2017 Bolt Infotainment unit acting up.

u/munja90x · 1 pointr/sysadmin

Here is a budget setup
1x HDMI Cable - https://amzn.com/B014I8TC4E
1x Logitech camera that will sit on top of your TV - https://amzn.com/B0040508OY
1x USB hub https://amzn.com/B00XMD7KPU that will plug into users PC
1x USB cable extension for Camera to USB hub - https://amzn.com/B00NH12O5I
1x Yeti microphone - https://amzn.com/B00N1YPXW2
1x USB Cable extension for Yeti microphone to USB hub - https://amzn.com/B00NH12O5I

Might have to get some stuff for cable management and get some cheap video adapters on Amazon, but this setup is like $300 max. Also, I would write up some good documentation and have it available in the room at all times. You will have to create some kind of documentation either way with any expensive solutions you find (Polycom trio, Logitech etc..).

u/Gawdl3y · 8 pointsr/ValveIndex

I use this USB extender and this DisplayPort cable along with one of these DP couplers with no issues. The DisplayPort cable is like double the length I need, but the price difference between the 10m and 20m one was only like $10, so I couldn't justify buying the shorter one, haha. Perhaps the length may be useful in the future!

u/KwyjiboTheGringo · 1 pointr/Fighters

Many streamers who speedrun SNES and N64 games use this: https://www.amazon.com/I-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y

I have one and it's pretty good. The only downside is that the driver is in Japanese, but it's still pretty easy to install.

Or you can use a Dazzle, which won't be as good but would be cheaper. Whatever you do, I would definitely not recommend getting some $10 AV capture device. I had one and they are pretty bad.

u/mrchowderclam · 3 pointsr/Twitch

I think the Wii U should output an HDMI signal, but for older consoles like the N64, I've heard great things about the GV-USB2. Most N64 speedruners I know use it. It's (relatively) cheap too! $35 USD on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/DATA-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y. I believe it's imported from japan.

u/Archerofyail · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

You won't be able to use your notebook, as I'm pretty sure streaming VR isn't a thing for steam.

Using extension cables would be the only thing that would work. You'll have to use either an active cable to extend your USB, or powered hubs and regular extensions cables. For your bluetooth dongle, you can just have a hub at the end of the cable and plug it into that as well, maybe you could also get an extension for it to move it away from the ports to reduce interference.

For HDMI you'll need a repeater, as I couldn't find any active extension cables, but I found this repeater, which looks good on paper, and then you'll just need to buy a couple of regular HDMI extension cables.

Edit: Updated USB active cable link, because you need 3.0.

u/Smashleyyyyy · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitchDeals

I carry this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAWVQ0Y/ for the legacy port, and this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKZ2SC for usb C. there's a 3' version too that works fine when I know I won't need the extra cable length.

Lastly there's a USB C to lightning cable if you carry an iPhone that supports fast charging.

I travel a lot and I'm OCD about efficiency on planes - I keep it pretty minimal cable wise.

u/NemoEsq · 1 pointr/Rockband

You need to understand what the cables are for.
The MIDI OUT cable is to be connected to your device's MIDI OUT - this is where the device is sending out signals from. The MIDI IN cable is to be connected to your device's MIDI IN - this is where a software or another MIDI device send signals INTO your device. Most MIDI keyboards will have both IN and OUT. The RB3 keytar only does MIDI OUT. So you connect your adapter's MIDI OUT cable to it. Then you connect the USB end to the PC. You might need specific drivers for your adapter.
Then you need software that is capable of accepting MIDI input over USB, and set it to do that. REAPER will accept it, that's the only one I've used. Then you can play on the keytar and record in REAPER or play back the audio as you're playing.
Note that you can't play something on REAPER or another software and send to the keytar, since the keytar doesn't have MIDI IN.
You can also use this method to connect to even a cell phone. This is an old video of mine showing the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIoik4aLByE

For reference I use this adapter: http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Midisport-Uno-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00007JRBM

u/Fabricated_Cake · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Wow, BIG thanks for that bit of keyboard science! Depicting the disassembly is also really useful and complements the write-up in your review. I was actually wondering about this when I found out about the RK's internal port 1-2 months ago but this being such a niche within a niche, I never thought I'd get an answer, haha.

That USB connector looks similar to those that you would find on motherboards for the front panel USB ports, but with one row instead of two. Were the wire assignments labelled? Or would any adaptor work as long as it has 5 pins with matching colours? This one from Amazon only has 4 pins though I'm not sure how necessary that 5th pin is.

Only issue now is how to route the adaptor through that rear cable shield. From the pics, it looks like the shield is just slotted into place and can be lifted up? Otherwise I'd probably have to drill a hole through.

Suddenly ABKO has become a very viable option for me as it ticks so many boxes, except my preferred 75% layout and bluetooth (my endgame doesn't exist). Hopefully Topre steps up their game and starts offering more features. Not sure if I still want to wait for the V2 in 55g though, as now that I've tried the 660C and HHKB, I can say that the heavier Topre on the 660C isn't always preferable.

u/TrevEB · 1 pointr/oculus

The room is 11'x12'
No bed however there is a couch which takes up some valuable space.
I used wall bushings that I sawed partially in half with a dremel so that I could slip the cable into it without having to cut the USB head off. I also had to soak the bushing is boiling water to soften it up a bit for bending. It makes the hole in the ceiling very clean. The hole itself was drilled just wide enough to get the USB head through. I'll post some pics soon of the wires. :)
Here is a list of parts.
Ceiling Mounts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wall Bushings
https://www.amazon.com/Single-Feed-Thru-Bushings-package-CIMPLE/dp/B01EKG1K1W/ref=pd_cp_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01EKG1K1W&pd_rd_r=69VB8HQYJYJ1ABYZDDNH&pd_rd_w=kvX5u&pd_rd_wg=VNk2q&psc=1&refRID=69VB8HQYJYJ1ABYZDDNH
StarTech 4 port PCI Express
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cable Matters Active USB 3.0 16 feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/KageYume · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

I would like to share my experience with Link.

My motherboard has a both USB 3.1 gen 1 and USB 3.1 gen 2 port. I've tested Link with Anker PowerLine USB-A to USB-C (3m, 3.1 gen 2) that Oculus recommended and the CableCreation Active USB-A extension cable (5m,male to female USB-A).

When I tried Link with the Anker cable alone plugged into USB 3.1 gen 2 port, it worked well.

However when I used the CableCreation + Anker combo plugged into USB 3.1 gen 2 port, audio did not work properly.

Then I tried the above combo plugged into USB3.1 gen 1 port, they worked properly without problem.

Anker Powerline (Amazon JP), CableCreation Active Extension Cable (Amazon JP)

My PC:

MSI X470 Gaming Pro

Ryzen 7 3700X

nVidia Geforce RTX 2080

(I've filled in the survey.)

u/Lancks · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

USB is the harder one. You'll need a very good mobo or an extension card (at least PCIE x4 to support the needed bandwidth/power). For the cable, an active extension cable worked for me - a passive cable would not.

Edit: I used this cable, but it does still give me static if I try to use headphones. Otherwise it works great.

https://www.amazon.ca/CableCreation-Meters-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=active+usb+3+cable&qid=1562950473&s=gateway&sr=8-1

u/astrnght_mike_dexter · 2 pointsr/SSBM

Okay you basically have two good options on that budget. You can get a GV-USB2 for about $30 and have a really easy setup with your wii (plug the S video in to the capture card and the yellow cable in to the TV, split the audio, and you're done), or you can get a black magic intensity shuttle which allows you to capture 480p video and will get you way better capture quality and is a little more complicated to set up.

Composite capture card example

BMI Shuttle example

This stuff is complicated so feel free to ask me more questions.

u/King_Chrispen · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

I actually just bought this LED strip off of Amazon. It isn't anything spectacular, but it fit my needs length wise and color. I only really wanted white in the beginning anyway. I just have it plugged into my motherboard with one of these. It works well and was much cheaper.

u/trebell · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Got this working great with an amazon basics cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D7NNJ61/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Works so well. My GPU is a 1070 and all is good thus far. what a great boost to the Quest to have access to full PC VR.

u/qwigle · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Not sure if this is where I should ask. I'm in Mexico and on amazon.com.mx this is cable I find which is only 6 feet and it costs around $35 usd so it's too pricey, I found this other one, would it work? It's still not ideal as it's only 6.6 feet but the price is only around $11 usd. Or someone that could help me find one that would work better.

Thanks.

u/Xenolith234 · 2 pointsr/oculus

If you have the room/ability, I'd mount the sensors on the ceiling or corners of the room. I got two (VideoSecu 2 Pack 2-6 inch Metal Wall Ceiling Mounts Adjustable Pan Tilt Video Camera Mounting Brackets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D49TU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_bYfm6J1rX8VQH) to mount them cheaply and securely, and three (Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 5 Meters/16.4 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_z9Cm45OtYiwYz). Purchasing a third sensor nets you a USB extension cable, and I also got an HDMI extension cable to give my Rift some extra room. Sorry for all the links! The ceiling setup gives me pretty flawless tracking.

u/digitaljohn · 1 pointr/hackintosh

Thanks for the input. I'm looking for something to replace my laptop so it being super tiny is really important.

I'm actually thinking of wiring up an internal USB WiFi module using a cable like this...

StarTech.com 6in USB 2.0 Cable - USB A Female to USB Motherboard 4 Pin Header F/F https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DIfdAb3RBGBWF

u/Zundrel · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Supposedly using this extension cable in combination with this A to C cable works according to one user. There's a very good chance these will be too thick to be comfortable to use while using the headset though.

I really would just recommend sticking with the 10 ft cable that Oculus recommend until they release their propietary 5m cable that's supposedly quite thin.

u/MartianBitwell · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

No worries, I blasted a lot of info in that first comment that may not have been immediately relevant to your situation. Hopefully the details below can get you started:

In the spec, the “OUTPUT L/MONO, R jacks (monaural phone jack unbalanced)” refers to the 1/4” jacks. Since it confirms they are unbalanced, you would use a 1/4” TS cable. Check out this Hosa Dual TS cable for a cheaper example that has two cables for Left and Right. (Two single 1/4” TS cables would work just fine too). This is the cable you’ll connect to the interface for the audio.

For the UMC404HD, the input jacks are “combo” jacks that can accept TS, TRS, and XLR connections.

For clarification: unbalanced signals only have two wires, the tip and the sleeve (“TS”). Balanced have 3 wires, like and XLR connection or a TRS (tip-ring-sleeve). Just make sure if you’re looking for an unbalanced instrument cable, you don’t get a speaker cable. Both actually have TS connectors. Instrument cables have a signal wire and shield made to reduce noise, where as speaker cables have two equally sized wires that are made to send power from an amp to a speaker.

The 3.5mm connections mentioned in the specs are for sync and CV connections. These are not audio, but I ways to interface with other synths that have patch points. I wouldn’t stress too much about them if the Minilogue is your only synth for now.

In addition to audio, being able to record the MIDI
data will give you lots of flexibility in songwriting and recording. For this, just using a USB cable will work for starters. You could connect with MIDI cables to your interface instead of the USB connection, but you wouldn’t need both.

The audio interface will have a USB cable included for connecting to the computer. Keep in mind you’ll want some sort of DAW software to record into. There are plenty of free options out there to try and see what you like, and the interface you buy will probably come with some form of Lite version. Also keep in mind when using an interface, playback will also come through it as an output. You can monitor this with headphones or by connecting the Main Out to powered monitors.

u/samtheredditman · 1 pointr/oculus

The Best Buy vr headset cable didn't work for my rift so I pulled the cables apart and used the 3.0 extension for my second sensor since I was out of the return period. Works perfect for that.

Here's what I got for my headset and the only things I'd recommend for headset extensions:

hdmi cable

hdmi repeater

usb 3 cable

inateck usb 3 card

The usb extender cable wouldn't work with anything besides the usb 3 card for me so I would say just buy it too. Though, I can only plug 2 things into the usb card.

These 4 things solved all my problems though. You can roll the dice on the best buy cord, but there's a decent chance you'll have to buy this stuff after and this way you get 15ft of extension instead of 9.

u/parney2000 · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest

Hi Gamertag-VR, dont mess around with 2m i can confirm a 10m active extension cable also by Ugreen works, usb 3.0.

Price: 25 notes, i also cut off the extra micro usb connection as it was annoying me like a little 6th finger on a hand 😁. Amazon Uk.

UGREEN USB Extension Cable, USB... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FQ88CHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

They also do a 15m one I think. I bought it as I have a better playspace on other end of downstairs (open plan) so wanted to route a cable there. Extension cable also acts as a good breakout. Ive already pulled cable twice, so its saved me from a possible broken oculus👍.

u/iidxred · 1 pointr/Twitch

I-o DATA USB connection video capture GV-USB2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00428BF1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bWaECbY4GMA30

Looks like the price has gone up a little bit, but still not bad for under $40. Just keep in mind that you'll want a powered composite splitter with any composite capture device so you don't get screen dimming/muddy picture. There's a radio shack branded one on Amazon for $20 that splits 1 to 4, which is excellent for me because I play a lot of light gun games on stream and the Guncons require composite video to work.

u/Jimmy_Two_Fingers · 1 pointr/Games

Ah, well it's USB. You can get an active extension cable like this for 2.0 and this for 3.0. An unboosted USB signal is only good for 5 meters tops, according to its spec.

u/Jaxidian · 1 pointr/essential

Here's a good USB Type-A to USB Type-C cable that supports USB 3.0 speeds: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MZIPYPY

If you don't care about data and just care about charging, you can get by with a thinner/more flexible USB 2.0 cable that charges just as well, like this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B019Q6Y2MK

u/sinubux · 2 pointsr/berkeley

This is the one I've been using since freshman year:

https://www.amazon.com/Brother-HL-L2300D-Monochrome-Printer-Printing/dp/B00NQ1CLTI/

It's currently going for $95, which is actually a lot more expensive than usual. I think it usually goes for like $60-$70, so maybe wait a bit and see if it comes back down.

It is only black-and-white, but it does have automatic duplex (double-sided-printing), so it's very convenient for printing out essays and readings and stuff.

It's been very reliable, and if you buy the off-brand toner cartridges (these are the ones I get), it's pretty cheap as well.

EDIT: One thing to note that caught me off guard when I bought it- It doesn't come with a USB cable, so maybe pick up one of those as well if you don't have one laying around.

u/mattenthehat · 2 pointsr/audiophile

So first, to connect your DAC to your computer, you'll need a usb A to B cable like this one. Most printers come with one of these, so you may have on laying around that you're not using. Plug the A (regular USB) end into your laptop, and the B (the square one) into the USB input on the DAC.

Next, you'll need two RCA splitters like this, one for the left channel, and one for the right. Plug one into each of the outputs on the DAC (male end into dac, 2 female ends hanging free).

To connect the subwoofer, you just need a regular RCA cable like this. Just run one side of the cable from one of the ouptuts of the spitter connected to the left channel on the DAC to the left input of the sub, and the same for the right (after this, you should have one output used on each of the two splitters).

Finally, to connect your speakers, I think the simplest way would be with the RCA to XLR cables (sadly, you'll need two of them, so you'll have to pick up another). Just run one from the free output on each of the splitters on the DAC outputs to the XLR input on the appropriate speaker (left or right).

Obviously, for each cable, get whatever length is convenient for the positioning of all your components.

u/tooandrew · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

hey folks just thought i'd share this,

i had one of these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

hanging around from when i had my rift cv1 quad sensor setup and i found it works great for link when paired with a short usb c cable i got with a phone somewhere that worked with link, but was too short to be useful. i dont notice any latency. the cable is a bit heavy, so what i do is i feed the female end of the cable though a carabiner on my beltloop, and then plug in the short one, so the cable connected to my face just goes down to my waist, and the weight of the cable is supported by the carabiner rather than tugging on the quest's usb port

u/fenchai · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

yes, I am using my Pixel Xl charger to charge the battery pack. It is indeed 4.5 hrs of charge.

I did buy some C to C cables from anker. they are very long and work just like my Stock Pixel C to C cables. Which are pretty good tbh.

here are the cables https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EMINIWW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/LaRock0wns · 1 pointr/oculus

What solved issues for me was moving the sensors to different USB ports. I have 1 plugged in to the front of the computer (uses internal cpu header). I have 1 plugged in to a USB 2 port, and the other 2 are plugged in to USB3 ports on different usb controllers on the motherboard.

Once I separated them all out, it completely changed things for the better. Before doing this, I could stand in one spot with the touch controllers out in front of me and not move at all, and the hands would judder and drift. With the change, I can play for a couple of hours with no issues (except in the far corners of the play space).

For those that are curious

This is the extension I'm using for the Rift - http://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-9-vr-extension-cable-black/5706844.p?skuId=5706844

These are the extension cables I'm using for 2 of the sensors plugged in to the USB3 ports - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/

For the USB2 sensor, I'm using the USB2 extension that came with the sensor

I'm on 980ti Asus Strix and a Gigabyte z170x gaming G1 motherboard. Not using any usb hubs or usb cards.

u/bingwhip · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I skipped the converter (had the same problem) and just picked one of these up. keep it in my gear bag and it works great. Works great to connect my Eachine ROTG01 to my new phone as well for a cheap monitor.

u/ataraxia89 · 2 pointsr/MavicPro

This is a waaaayyy better bag for the Mavic Pro >> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MY920DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rkP5Bb5J1012Z

Also, bought a couple of these to protect props >> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078WNZ6SM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AlP5BbWF31RFG

This to connect the drone directly to your phone to copy over 4K videos (for a USB-C phone, I'm sure micro USB or Lightning cables are available) >> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UUBRX0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.lP5Bb76PZ812

MicroSD card holder >> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005SPQ8XK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_doP5BbAZRXNCX

Launchpad, for use on grass/dirty areas, also the Mavic takes an image of it's take off position which should mean more accurate return to home (I've not tested it yet) >> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XT1K51W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.oP5BbW61N41Z

I've also bought these silica pouches to put in the cases (got the same case for the Osmo too) to keep out moisture, you'd be surprised what they've picked up so far, and they're rechargeable 😀 >> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071DDYFNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_prP5Bb77166QV

High speed MicroSD >> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07G3GMRYF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kvP5BbWG49M09

u/labcoat2 · 5 pointsr/oneplus

I never thought cable quality was a thing but purchasing this wire made me understand what a high-quality cable is like. It fits firm in my phone, and it has great velcro straps to keep them organized!

u/MarcusAuralius · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

I've had very good experiences with Anker products: a Macbook battery, a battery pack and a micro USB cable. They have good support also, the Macbook battery I listed failed on me twice and was replaced quickly both times, it's been good for a year now.

I hate promoting only one option but, in your case, it looks like a good choice.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Devices-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01EMINIWW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479878488&sr=8-4&keywords=anker+usb+c+6ft

u/tranceology3 · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

These are what I got, and they work great. Figured I would get the extra pack of USB cables for my family. Also got an extender that works great too., I get up to 26 ft with the extender.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07375RHX1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/AutoModerator · 1 pointr/HardwareSwapUK

Warning:

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Title: [SG] [H] Samsung LC27JG50 27-Inch WQHD (144Hz) Monitor, DT770 Pro & Assorted Bits [W] PayPal/BT
Username: /u/ashzx
Original Post:
Got a bunch of stuff to sell. Prices include postage to UK. Open to offers, just shoot me a DM. If buying via PayPal, would like buyer to pay fees.

Item| Condition| Price| Pictures
---|---|----|----
Samsung LC27JG50 27-Inch WQHD (144Hz) Curved Monitor | Owned for a few months. Has a stuck white pixel in top left around ~10cm from each edge. Comes with original box + cables. Also: the UK plug is attached & it cannot be removed, so the EU adapter is pointless | £195| Monitor Box/Stand Cables (HDMI cable, Power Cable)
beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250ohm (with straight cable)| Replaced cable from original coiled one to a straight one. Used for around 3 years. Has some weird intermittent distortion at the bassy end when used with my headphone amp (the noise is not noticeable when amp is switched off). Have original box, but no headphone bag. | £45| Imgur
AmazonBasics 7 Port Powered USB Hub| Used for around a year to power the external sensors for my Oculus Rift. Full working order, includes USB cable, and the tiny IEC lead (pictured) | £15| Imgur
Inateck 4 Port Internal USB Card | Same story as above, comes with the SATA power connector (no molex one I'm afraid)| £8| Imgur
CableCreation 16FT Active USB Cable | Owned for a few years, again to use with Oculus Rift. Good working order, | £6 | Imgur

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u/JortsForSale · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

I have a Kenwood DMX7705S with a Pixel 1 and don't have any issues. The best advice I could give would be to make sure you have a high quality USB 3 cable. There are a number of USB 3 cables out there that work fine for charging but have issues with the more data intensive operations. I am using this one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6F3WHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and have had no issues.

Good luck!

u/pinellaspete · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

I have been using this charger and yes, it does rapid charge the Pixel. It is pretty heavy for its size and seems to be very top quality: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5B069C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these cables with that charger and yes, the cables matter when it comes to rapid charging: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LNA0XCU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/OneEarth3 · 2 pointsr/PSP

You can transfer saves, although you might need a PC and a couple cheap adapters to do it.

You need a card reader capable of reading the SD cards. Pretty much all laptops already have that built in, but for a desktop PC you'll want something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Super-Multi-Card-Reader-TS-RDF8K/dp/B0056TYRMW/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450062474&sr=1-6&keywords=card+reader

PSP memory sticks generally come with an SD card adapter as well, which you'll also need.

You insert the PSP memory stick into the SD card adapter, then insert that into the card reader on your PC. From there, your PC should automatically detect the memory stick as if it's an SD card, and you can copy the saves for any game to your PC. Once the saves are copied on to your PC, you can copy them to anything you want later, including a different PSP memory stick.

Alternatively, you may be able to simply plug in the whole PSP to your PC using this kind of USB cord and copy the saves that way. It'd be simpler if it works, but I also don't have firsthand experience with it.
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable--Male/dp/B00NH11N5A/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1450062806&sr=1-1&keywords=mini+usb+cord

u/Spaceguy5 · 2 pointsr/hotas

Your mileage will vary based on your computer hardware but personally I'm using an unpowered cheapo hub that supports USB 2.0 from Wal-Mart
(which only has my Warthog throttle + stick + TRP pedals plugged in), and I'm using a long USB 3.0 extension that has a repeater (which was leftover from my Oculus setup. My flight sim setup is too far from my desktop to reach). It's plugged into a USB 3.0 port on my computer, as 3.0 supports a higher current draw. Have had zero issues so far, though I plan to upgrade to a cheapo 3.0 hub (only using the 2.0 temporarily as I had it laying around).

If you have an unpowered hub laying around, it's worth trying. But if you want a guarantee of no issues (especially if your computer power supply is on a tight margin), a powered hub may be the way to go.

If you're in no hurry and have stores nearby with good return policies, you could even buy a cheap unpowered and return it if it doesn't work.

u/gonekrazy3000 · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

well. i can safely say this has made the CV1 obsolete for me. it will be relegated to the "backup" role incase i accidentally break my quest. had absolutely no issues whatsoever for a good hr of play. using a 12ft usb 3.0 extender and a 10 foot type usb 3.0 A-C cable for a total cable length of 22ft connected directly to my Asus Prime X570-p motherboard's usb 3.2 port. my 1080ti is pretty solid so far :D

​

For those curious these are the exact cables i'm using:-extender:- https://www.amazon.com/Insignia-USB-Charge-Cable-NS-MCAB10/dp/B01MYZDG3T

A-C cable:- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZIPYPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Full Rig:-

Ryzen 3900X

32 Gb Gskil Trident-z rgb ram

GTX 1080Ti

Asus Prime X570-p motherboard.

u/Steev182 · 0 pointsr/VideoEditing

If you have an older MacBook Air/Pro: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-USB-Male-Cable/dp/B01GGKYN0A/ref=sr_1_3_acs_sk_pb_1_sl_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542134206&sr=8-3-acs&keywords=usb+c+cable

If you have a recent MacBook (the really thin one): https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-Type-C-2-0-Cable/dp/B01GGKZ2SC/ref=sr_1_3_acs_sk_pb_1_sl_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542134206&sr=8-3-acs&keywords=usb+c+cable

However, keep in mind, these are large files and recorded in a really highly compressed format, so if your Macbook is any less than a MacBook Pro with a good graphics card and a powerful processor, you're not going to have a fun time because rendering h.264 is a resource intensive task.

u/Antoniopapp · 1 pointr/oculus

Hey Knexfan0011, I read the amazon link for my Cablematters plug. I found this line " Optional AC Power (sold separately): Power Adapter with 5V/2A center positive 3.5 x 1.35mm barrel connector." Didn't you say that the plug was DC? Here is the amazon link. Does it matter if I buy a DC or AC plug? Thanks!

Edit: Will this work? Link

u/MastrWalkrOfSky · 3 pointsr/smashbros

No clue. Probably because it's a workaround. If you have 35 bucks to drop, I'd highly recommend this card:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00428BF1Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=19PXRWYDINS8Q&coliid=I2SHEBGBZQJW43

It's amazing quality, easy with drivers, etc. Works perfectly with OBS once you install the drivers, which there's a tutorial on how to do it in the amazon reviews (it's click a couple boxes, but it's all in Japanese lol).

I use that, with this splitter, and S-video. Here's an example of what it looks like with my setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RN9E1OSVgHo

u/TenuredOracle · 1 pointr/nexus5x

I love the nice braided cable that's on Benson Leung's approved usb c list.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010VFFU1W/

u/skp_005 · 1 pointr/SuggestALaptop

The channel I linked actually has a comparison video of the Dell and the Lenovo, check that out too.

I prefer the Dell ones because they tend to last longer and I also like the carbon fiber / metal design. I know people who are more into keyboards and so prefer Lenovos. The Aero is a gaming laptop with matching dimensions, not the best for portability.

If you can, have a look at them in person, see which one you like best.

For a charger, you can look at something like these:

u/CMDR_DrDeath · 1 pointr/oculus

OK, so I am not running my cables through the attic and a 3m extension is enough for me (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00WHZ8NDW) costs me 8 bucks. But even such cables as you require for your setup seem to be a lot cheaper where I am (https://www.reichelt.de/USB-Kabel/DELOCK-83415/3/index.html?ACTION=3&GROUPID=6104&ARTICLE=138544), 10m active USB3.
For my own use, I am deducting the free games, because all of those were titles I was planning on buying before I knew they were giving them away. Of course, if you are not interested in those games it is not nearly as valuable.

What about this ? : https://www.amazon.ca/Extension-Repeater-Extender-Booster-Superspeed/dp/B01FQ88CHS/ref=sr_1_2/156-9225501-4320419?ie=UTF8&qid=1481322879&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+3+active+extension

u/rolandkeytar · 2 pointsr/keys

You can use your Yamaha as a controller. All you need is a midi to usb convertor like this. You can take the signal from your headphone jack and plug it straight into a mixer/pa or direct box with a cable like this.

If you want to invest a little more you can buy a midi interface. Two common ones are the maudio fast track and the focus rite scarlett. These are both pretty standard and can do what you need.

u/Katur · 3 pointsr/oculus

This HDMI and USB extenders should give you enough.

> In the best case scenario i can only get 10 linear feet (16 ft cord, 6 foot tall person = 10 feet)

Also the Math says in best case you'll get 14.8 linear feet.

u/DaGamer12345 · 4 pointsr/speedrun

The GV-USB2 is a relatively cheap but is considered to be better than the Dazzle DVC100. Downside is that the manual and software is in Japanese, but using the device is relatively straightforward and is supported by free capture tools such as Virtualdub and OBS.

If you do get this, to install the driver software, put the CD in your computer (you can also download the drivers from the manufacturer's website). Select the box to the right, then select the box with a 1 next to it.

u/hitmewithmuzak · 11 pointsr/synthesizers
  1. Google search 'Casio CTK3200 Manual'.
  2. The first link is the Casio official website download page
  3. Download the manual
  4. Check the table of contents on page one, the section called Connecting External Devices > Connecting a Computer on page E-34 sounds good. Alternatively, the General Guide section on pages E-2 and E-3 show you the back of the machine and tell you for the USB port turn to page E-34. E-34 is definitely where we want to go.
  5. That page tells you that you need a "USB cable (A-B type)" so lets google that too
  6. The very first link is for an AmazonBasics brand one that is $5 and has free one-day shipping.
u/vahdyx · 1 pointr/oculus

I'm not sure myself but I bought

CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hxQJyb6BVHBCF

I will let you know if it works on Tuesday along with my PCI-E USB card.

u/TestinTestin · 2 pointsr/NASCAR

The good thing about the FanVision cables is that it uses a regular Mini USB plug that can be picked up at a place like Best Buy or online

u/semi_colon · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Your keyboard probably has MIDI in/out already, which means all you need is a MIDI interface like this to connect it via USB.

Alternatively, the keyboard may have a USB port, in which case you don't need the adapter and should be able to plug it in and see it come up as a MIDI device.

Then you'll want to find a software instrument to play with it. There's all sorts of free VSTs available. Most of them will run by themselves as applications, but to use more than one in conjunction or do sequencing/effects you may need a DAW, as others have mentioned. The trial editions of FL Studio or Ableton Live are featured enough to start off with, or you could try a free DAW like BitWig which will have fewer limitations than the trial editions.

u/ailurofile · 5 pointsr/Amd

Trying again. My previous attempt was removed by mods, not sure which link was in violation but I changed one of them:

Wow. Good going.

How about:

  1. One of these: https://www.amazon.com/IYSHOUGONG-1-44MB-Floppy-Connector-Adapter/dp/B07QYYF36N
  2. Paired with: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

    BTW I have NO IDEA if that would work. But in theory you would think it would.

    Power cable into the adapter at #1 above is separate, but seems like that would be a legacy standard.

    Also, there is this:

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Olimex-Ltd/ARM-JTAG-20-10?qs=DUTFWDROaMbVQp3WoAdijQ%3D%3D&gclid=CjwKCAjwibzsBRAMEiwA1pHZrlxfq0xcms8HD_Vkh7lJCE2a9WGWQwkaVUBkFDo8g9iZXoZaFDNKKBoCQF0QAvD_BwE

    Datasheet PDF on that page is super-vague, so very much in the theme of 1995 All-Over-Again.

    If you get both 3.5" drives up and running, you should stripe them together into a RAID 0 !!!
u/Pottiland9 · 9 pointsr/GalaxyS9

Don't use that

I'd say go with the OEM (Samsung ones) or Anker fast charge ones

USB C Charger, Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable (6ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, MacBook, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10 and More https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01E9W8KYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Z-wJBb4B3SRQ3

Btw I don't think Samsung fucked us

I'm glad we have type C it's Innovation it's the future

Usb c is better in every way except cost for now

u/dakodeh · 1 pointr/oculus

Having done something similar myself, I would say DONT skimp on proper cabling solutions, when it comes to installing this stuff test your exact setup before you put anything into a wall or ceiling. I had troubles daisychaining 2x active 15’ extenders. Better was to order the ugreen 30’ active cable (Amazon link: UGREEN USB 3.0 Active... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FQ88CHS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)

I went from constant headaches (frequent senso disconnects) to zero problems with that cable. Good luck!

u/costantinea · 3 pointsr/WindowsMR

The following works with the HMD+ with none of the audio screeching I had on the original Samsung. I have 20 hours VR play since the headset arrived from Microsoft last Friday.

Gigabyte X99 G1 USB 3.0 port to:
Cable Matters Active USB 3.0 Extension Cable (USB 3 Extension Cable/USB Extension Cable Male to Female) 16.4 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to
Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs included 5V/2.5A power adapter (HB-UMP3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to Odyssey HMD+.

Nvidia 980 HDMI Port
to
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to Odyssey HMD+

u/stranded_meerkat · 1 pointr/wacom

Pen displays generally have three connections: Video, data, power. This model uses a DVI-D cable for video. Power adapter is POW-A131 for the non-touch, and POW-A120 for the touch model. Then the USB-B to A cable for data, he's one from Amazon that should work: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK (these cables are very generic and standard, so compatibility is never really an issue so long as you get the right connector type).

Since you are getting a video signal, I wouldn't bother changing those other cables. Just swap this one and see what happens, if it doesn't fix it --- the issue could be the computer, but more likely an issue with the Cintiq itself (my money's on the cable tho).

Good luck

u/rey_kzizzle · 4 pointsr/speedrun

You can go the SD route and get a GV USB2, which is the best quality you'll get out of a SD capture card. This is the best choice.

u/K1n9kunt4 · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

Best replacement for wall charger I bought. You will need the USB C cable you can get AmazonBasics works perfectly together. Total $27.50

Anker PowerPort PD 1 USB-C Wall Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GWNYC4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JRqyCbM5VWAQV

AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB Type-C 2.0 Cable - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKZ2SC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3VqyCbDDYJWVE