This option is pretty pricey, but since you didn't list a budget, this is (in my opinion) the bar-none best desk money can buy. I have one and almost one year later I'm still freaking in love with the thing. It's built to last and I don't see myself ever getting rid of it (unless I move someplace where it doesn't fit, but then again, I probably wouldn't move to a place where it wouldn't fit :) )

UpLift Standing Desk: http://www.upliftdesk.com/stand-up-desk-with-bamboo-top/

A few of the nice points:

• Standing desk, so fully height-adjustable
  
• Comes in a variety of sizes up to 80"x30" with many different options (their other models come in different woods too)
  
• Vast, unobstructed desk space with plenty of room in the corners for accessories & lamp
  
• Desk legs are out-of-the-way (to the side) so there is nothing blocking your legs in or cramping your sitting/motion. Plenty of room for PC, paper shredder, subwoofer, trash can, etc. underneath without sacrificing leg space
  
• Desk thickness is perfect for monitor arms and microphone arms (and I HIGHLY recommend arms for your monitors, you don't realize how much desk space you get back until you own them!!)
  
• Built to be extremely solid and sturdy. No plastic anywhere and (as you'll find when you assemble it) the designers have gone a bit overboard on making sure the connections are rigid and plentiful.
  
• The motors are quiet, quick, and powerful
  
• Cable management on the underside of the desk via Cable Clips keeps everything sleek, clean, and beautiful
  
• Screw one of these babies into the desk underneath and towards the back to easily power all of your accessories (they also have offerings with more plugs, if you really need that)
  
• The underside is also perfect for a USB Hub or other accessory - just Command Strip it or screw it into the bottom, slightly recessed from the front lip of the desk to have a super slick, subtle, and clean IO panel for your phone, USB sticks, etc. Consider a second USB hub hidden elsewhere underneath for peripherals that are always plugged in (keyboard, mouse, microphone, headphone amp). This is great because only one cable needs to actually go to your PC, and new peripherals are really easy to add.
  
• The power strip + USB hub strat means that you end up with only a small handful of cables actually coming way from the desk, which you can feed through cable braid for a super-sharp and clean/tidy look
  
  If anyone is interested in buying one, don't bother getting their optional "cable management" kit, the recommendations above work way better in practice.

No problem, glad to help!

> I think I'm going to grab a USB-C to HDMI cable so I can hook my MacBook up to the TV

Quick thing, consider getting a Thunderbolt 3 hub, like this one, for example. These little devices allow you to get the most out of your MacBook's Thunderbolt ports buy expanding them to several supported ports, whilst still including at least one full-bandwidth Thunderbolt 3 port. this way, instead of having to get specific USB-C or Thunderbolt 3 compatible wires or adapters, you could just natively connect whatever wires you have to a hub. There's plenty of options for your to choose from, some of which focus on multi-screen output, some of which focus on data transfer, and some that feature a general-user port selection.

> Do you just play on your MacBook sometimes? [...] What games do you mainly play on MacBook with your wheel?

Personally, I pretty much only play PC exclusives on my Mac. I do play Euro Truck Simulator 2 on my MacBook, but unfortunately, The Thrustmaster T80 and T300 wheels I have aren't compatible with macOS or Linux, so I just use a PS3 controller.

However, I can confirm that the G29 [is compatible with macOS and ETS2](https://www.logitechg.com/en-us/products/driving/driving-force-racing-wheel.html#product-tech-specs, along with other titles on Mac.

> Do you find it gets too hot?

It used to, but not anymore.

This may be a bit more advanced, but you can manage your system's thermal performance. Step one would be to get a fan controller app, such at TG Pro, which is what I use. The main issue with thermal performance with Macs is that Apple tries to keep the fan speed as low as possible, to keep the system as quiet as possible... even to a fault. A fan controller app will let you set your notebook's fan speeds with your own custom settings, so whilst it may definitely get louder, you won't have to worry about it burning from the inside out, or at least not worry about thermal throttling.

Step 2, if you so dare, would be to replace the thermal paste in your MacBook. Apple's stock thermal paste is relatively weak at transferring heat (as a trade off for lasting longer), so you may want to consider replacing it with aftermarket, high-quality paste, such as Artic MX-4. High-quality doesn't mean expensive in this case, as a tube of good paste can have at least 10 uses' worth for 3euro - 10euro.

However, keep in mind that taking apart a 2013 and up MacBook isn't easy, and it can technically void your Apple warranty. But if you do decide to undergo the task, it'll unlock your system's full potential. I've done both of these, and now my system never goes above 90°C under full-load.

> Unrelated side note: The buyers guide and support you provide in this community is outstanding and I'd love to support you by purchasing on Amazon through your affiliate link, if that's okay?

Oh, we don't use affiliate links. All of the Buyer's Guide links are standard URLs, the same as anyone else would get. All of the work I put into the subreddit is unpaid.

I've thought about requesting affiliate links a few times so I could fund community events, but I worry about the conflict of interest, especially for when we get new moderators. I really appreciate the thought, though!

_____

^(I'd totally appreciate a gift card donation, though :P)

1. I don't know about PS2, but Dolphin can emulate GC AND Wii, and it seems really good, and I've seen it running well on GPD Win 2
   
   
2. You could easily do that on a $250 laptop lol, but yes, the GPD can EASILY do all those things, and it has 8 GB ram so good for having multiple things up at once, for word processing, yeah, you'l probably need a Bluetooth keyboard (Yes Win 2 has built-in BT) and the screen is a bit small to see the words, but it should be fine because it still has good resolution. And yeah, you might want that USB hub because it only has 1 USB on the back. This was one I was looking at that I think would work great with the Win/Win 2 https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Degree-Rotatable-HB-UMN4/dp/B00LRYUJQS/
   
   Hope this helps

Remember: Friends & Family/Gift payments, Venmo, gift cards, Zelle and cryptocurrency are non-refundable and offer NO BUYER PROTECTION. - If as a buyer, you choose to pay through the "Friends and Family" option, or agree to send Gift Cards, Venmo, or cryptocurrency as payment, please understand that you will not be able to open a claim should something go wrong in the transaction.

Title: [USA-OH] [H] iPad Pro 3rd Gen w/ Smart Keyboard, Apple Pencil, accessories [W] $1000 PayPal

Username: /u/julesyoudrink_

Body:

Hi there!

First and foremost, pics: https://imgur.com/a/K7ICJUE

I'm looking to let go of my iPad Pro with all the fixings. This is what you'd get:

iPad Pro Gen 3, 256gb, WiFi only, Space Gray with an Apple Smart Keyboard Folio, an Apple Pencil (2nd Gen), screen protectors, and a 5 in 1 Dongle: USB-C to HDMI, Sd/TF Card Reader and 2 Ports USB 3.0. The only thing this does not come with are the earbuds that usually come standard with the iPad's. All Software is up to date as well.

Everything has been used less than 10 total times, I'm an art teacher and freelance designer and I would take it with me to work everyday thinking that I would use it and after a couple months I just never did. I'm looking to sell so I can buy my wife a mirrorless point and shoot camera as she shows interest and I'm trying to get her creative juices flowing and get her into another hobby she enjoys that I also enjoy, we don't share too many hobbies rn. That's a whole nother story though!

The Keyboard has slight cosmetic wear where a sticker was attached to it that I took off before taking the pictures. The boxes have some cosmetic wear as well (The cosmetic wear on the apple pencil box is from it traveling with me in my satchel type work bag (that's what I used for the case for the pencil lol). but everything works IN PERFECT CONDITION. And everything comes in their original boxes (except for the dongle).

I have a picture of everything but the dongle, as it's at my work in my desk, but it has never been used. It does not come with a box. Here is an amazon link to what exactly it is I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074J79WWJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is basically a Brand New iPad Pro bundle, it gives you everything you need. 

Total Value: $1,305!!

I am asking for $1000 or best offer with Free Shipping via USPS. Thank you!!


I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

Hardware

• Raspberry Pi 4 4GB
  
• C4Labs Cloudlet cluster case
  
• 6x 5TB drives
  
• 7 port powered USB 3.0 hub
  
  
  
  Software
  
  Using openmediavault for a NAS platform and pretty pleased with it so far. Installed MergerFS to pool the drives’ filesystems and SnapRAID to configure 5 data drives and 1 parity drive totaling ~25TB of usable space, with room for 1 more drive in the case.
  
  Also installed Sonarr, Radarr, & NZBGet via Docker containers for automated Usenet downloading.
  
  Performance
  
  Getting file transfer speeds around 50MBps (see edit 3). This is half of what /u/Awil95 mentioned he is getting with his NAS build. My suspicion is he is getting better speeds due to running his Pi off an SSD, where I’m using microSD. I may upgrade to an m.2 SSD at some point and see if it increases speeds, but it’s not really a problem.
  
  Was initially getting download speeds of 10-12 MBps, which I was disappointed by, but after tinkering with NZBGet’s settings I’ve more than doubled that. Again, I suspect upgrading to an SSD would bring this up more.
  
  I’m able to stream 4K media to my Apple TV flawlessly. It’s worth noting I’m not running a Plex server or doing any transcoding. I’m playing my media with an app called Infuse that plays just about everything natively, including 4K and HDR content.
  
  Questions, thoughts, and suggestions are welcome!
  
  EDIT: Thanks to the fine help of a number of folks here, I’m beginning to suspect my drives aren’t receiving as much power as they should. In addition to slower than expected transfer and download speeds, I’ve seen some strange behavior like I/O errors from SnapRAID that may be explained by this. I have ordered this hub to see if it improves things. (Currently using a very generic hub.) I will update this comment with the results once it arrives (should be tonight Sept. 9)
  
  EDIT 2: Got the new hub I mentioned above. The drives are running better (no more I/O errors), and I’ve seen slight increase in write speeds, and a massive increase in read speeds (which are now 70-80 MBps). While the write speeds still aren’t amazing, the NAS is performing solidly, so I’m not going to worry about it too much more.
  
  IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT POWERED USB HUBS ON RPI 4:
  
  It seems many powered USB hubs will prevent the RPi 4 from booting if they’re plugged in when it’s turned on. (See this thread.) I experienced this myself with my original hub, and would have to wait until the Pi completely booted before plugging it in. I am not experiencing this with the hub linked above. If you’re going to run a powered hub, I’d highly recommend that one, or another that someone has verified as not causing boot issues.
  
  BELATED EDIT 3: Alright folks, did I mention I’m very, VERY new to Linux? I ask because I have an embarrassing admission. I already had most of the drives when I was building this NAS. Reformatting and moving data around seemed like a whole thing, so I didn’t do it. Which means that this whole time my drives have been formatted as... NTFS. I’ve reformatted as EXT4 and BOOM! 100 MBps. I’m slightly embarrassed, but pumped I have a killer RPi 4 NAS.
  
  Cheers!

I have raspberry pi2 and raspberry pi3 running at the moment.
no load balancing.
for my televisions I run koi/rasplex. 1 for each tv. since not every TV is where ethernet runs in my home, I like to use the pi3 for its integrated wifi/bluetooth. the bluetooth also makes remotes very easy as I can use any number of bluetooth keyboard/touchpad combos.

I don't run Raspberry pi game emulators, but I am really considering it as a high def screen replacement for my nintendo wii with home-brew.

I've used LazyLibrarian,Sonarr,sabnzbd,BT clients,generic raspbian for SSH/Socks5 proxy, Octoprint for my 3d printer (the most heavily used pi install in my home).

the PoE solution that I like the most right now is: https://www.amazon.com/microUSB-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry-WT-AF-5v10w/dp/B019BLMWWW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467599020&sr=8-1&keywords=pi+PoE

The price point is nice and the form factor is easier to fit to basic raspi cases.


http://www.htpcguides.com has a lot of good examples of pi projects for home media use. A friend of mine uses his pi for a kodi extension called onechannel that scrapes many websites for streaming media. I generally avoid torrents and streaming websites for content as the risk/reward is not where I want to see it for stuff I am already entitled to through my cable provider.

http://www.htpcguides.com/configure-pctv-triplestick-292e-tvheadend-on-raspberry-pi/

tvheadend with an hd homerun prime gets me great network video recorder without any pesky copyright issues (home video recording is legit under fair use). for things that fall outside the capability of my hd homerun, I can use hulu,netflix,amazon prime video, hbo go, etc to fill the gap.

I don't do anything with the pi zero or pre-rj45 on board models as connectivity is a nuisance. the total investment for performance of the pi zero combined with availability just hasn't made sense.

Depends on her major. Either way, portability is key.

Engineering benefits from decently powerful Windows machine, except computer/software engineering, which benefits from Mac. I have a pricey Dell XPS 15 which is highly powerful and quite nice.

Defer to her judgement for other majors. Personally I loved my Mac and found it to be *much* more convenient for most use around campus. WiFi connected faster, it went to sleep and woke up faster, it was super easy to drop files to my friends, etc. The one downside is Microsoft Powerpoint is worse on Mac. A MacBook Pro is probably better than a MacBook Air, but someone else can comment on that. Annoyingly, all Apple laptops have now gone all in on USB-C, which means she needs an adapter for ordinary USB ports. Pick up a USB C to USB 3.0 Hub (like this, which includes ethernet, VGA, HDMI, etc) and a dual mode USB C/3.0 flash drive for her. Finally, Apple gives decent education discounts (see here). You can use this discount at the Apple Store at the Mall of Louisiana. Most accessories are best purchased online, not in store. Apple Care is not a bad idea.

By the way, she gets free Microsoft Office through LSU. Don't buy software for her until she's sure it isn't in the software store (TigerWare)

Before she asks or a sales person suggests, she probably doesn't need an iPad or a new phone for college. If anything, consider getting her a second monitor for her room (they're cheap--like this) and can do double duty for streaming Netflix if she's in a dorm. They're nice when you need to multitask (have notes open while researching), or have your online textbook open on one screen while your homework is on the other, etc)

Ok.. here's my final update. I found another monitor it's more expensive but it is 4k and better on my eyes for coding. I am not coding at UHD resolution though - I'm coding at the 1920x1080 so I can read the text lol.

However for video or such i can switch it back to UHD and enjoy an amazing picture..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPJYVF2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then the doc for my office I am using ( one monitor on usb-c and one on display port)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CZPV8DF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The mini doc i use for traveling around which has my usb adapter for my travel mouse and connects to the hdmi monitor at home is :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074J79WWJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All are working great!

A HOTAS is an awesome addition to Elite Dangerous in VR.

As for a USB hub here is a copy paste of an answer I provided someone a few days ago about hubs. I posted earlier about PCI cards but just realised you have a laptop sp they are not really an option.

----------------------------

Just remember a hub that might work for one person might not work for another. Because you are essentially daisy chaining it to the USB controllers on your motherboard. If your motherboard doesn't have a good enough USB subsystem you are still going to have problems.

The ideal solution would be to get a hub for everything Non Rift related and try to put everything Rift related onto the motherboard where possible. If you have to put something Rift related onto a Hub I would choose a 3rd sensor first (when using supplied extension cable) as its bandwidth requirements are quite low.

Firstly you would likely want a powered USB hub in case the Rift sensors or headset needed to pull more power than the motherboard port you plug it into is able to provide.

USB 3.0 Hubs

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

or

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Adapter-Devices/dp/B00PBZX0OM

I chose those two brands Anker and Amazon Basics because they are the hubs I commonly see people say have worked for the Rift.

USB-C Hubs

Alternatively you could try getting a USB-C hub which would give you the best chance of avoiding having a bottleneck with data throughput. I couldn't find any (of those brands) that had powered options so you run the risk of not having enough power.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Macbook-Devices/dp/B00XU6IMWY

or

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP

Disclaimer: There really isn't much documented evidence of what works because like I said earlier it all depends on the motherboard USB port you end up plugging these into. If you have success let reddit know though so others in your situation can do the same. I thought about buying a few for just testing when questions like this were asked but I couldn't be bothered as my PCI card solution works just fine (something you can't do)

Late reply but I just went through this (with a non touchbar model, so I was even more limited).

You have 4 ports on your computer, so get two of these:

Cable Matters USB C to HDMI Cable (USB-C to HDMI Cable) Supporting 4K 60Hz in Black 6 Feet - Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible for Macbook Pro, Dell XPS 13/15 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073H9RG9T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6824AbZ8VV161

If you would still like a dock, get the HyperDrive 7 port dock with the dual plug:

HyperDrive USB C Hub, Best Type-C DUO Adapter 50Gbps for MacBook Pro 2017/2016 13" 15", 7in2: USB-C 100W Power Delivery, USBC 5Gbps Data, 4K HDMI, microSD/SD Card Reader, 2xUSB 3.1 Ports by SANHO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAEI7J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_w524AbVRYRNC6

If you get the dock, you can still get two of the above cables or alternatively just get one and the use a regular HDMI for the other. I would recommend this because it’s cheaper and it frees up one more USB C port for whatever you need it for. You’re only going to be using HDMI out for a display.

Basically, each port on the machine only supports one separate display out unless you get an actual TB3 dock (expensive).

Ok. I’m glad you asked. Ha ha.

First, let me mention that you can use a USB cable plugged into a power source then use male to male headphone cables to get the old analogue sound but that’s not the ideal way to use the G6. In fact, sometimes I’ve found that the Switch sound wasn’t strong enough for the G6 to pick up.

Ideally, you want to use the USB. It’s worth it.

Here is what I do / have done / continue to do.

1: You can get a cable that has USB-C on one end and micro USB on the other

Cable Matters USB C to Micro USB Cable (Micro USB to USB-C Cable) with Braided Jacket 3.3 Feet in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUBRX0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DRGwCbRSPDZ6D

The problem is that you run into an issue when you need a charge since the USB is taken with the G6.

I also found that if you power the G6 and the Switch by the same charger, you get a power whine so you can’t plug them both into a multi USB charger. It’s too loud to ignore so that also didn’t work.

2. Here is how I solved the problem of being able to use the G6 in handheld mode and still be able to power it.

I found a dongle that lets me power the Switch as well as the G6 while still allowing me to connect to to the G6 via USB.

If you use this thing, you can connect the G6 to the USB port, connect a power source with PD to the USB power input, and connect the built-in USB-C to the Switch.

Anker USB C Hub, 3-in-1 Type C Hub, 4K USB C to HDMI Adapter, USB 3.0, with 60W Power Delivery Charging Port for MacBook Pro 2016/2017/2018, ChromeBook, XPS, and More (Space Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DD8BLJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n4GwCbQ5671ZC

It ended up being a little annoying how short the attached cable was because it has to hang out of the Switch. I had to find a USB-C extension cable that allowed for power AND DATA transfer. Lots of power cables out there that won’t carry the data which is what the cable needs for the G6 and Switch to communicate. I ended up finding this cable and it worked beautifully:

Poyiccot USB Type C Extension Cable (3.3Ft/1M), High Speed Super Fast Gen 2 (10Gbps) USB 3.1 Type C Male to C Female Extension Charging & Sync Cable Cord For Nintendo Switch, Macbook & More (Straight) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3OHPD7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_26GwCb8VAGK0R

The setup I’ve finally settled in on to be able to charge the Switch, power the G6, and connect the G6 to the Switch by USB is this:

Power Supply with 60W PD —>
Anker adapter in USB C PD port
G6 plugged into the USB port with a micro USB cable
Switch plugged into the attached USB-C cable built into the Anker adapter (with the USB-C extension cord I bought)
Headphones plugged into the G6

It sounds complicated... and it was complicated to figure out... but now, I LOVE IT.

On my iPad Pro, I can use my Logitech keyboard and mouse, hdmi monitor plugged into a USB C hub

The only problem I had was the display is letter boxed and the mouse is nerfed of course.

It’s getting close but surface still performs better as a full fledged desktop on its own.

But with Shadow, high speed internet with wireless AC a raspberry pi and virtual here for mouse support, you can gain that full desktop experience on the iPad Pro though. I’m really hoping shadow somehow adds support for Bluetooth mice on the iPad. That would remove a significant technical step.

After hours of searching, I think I've finally found 1 or 2:
I hope it benefits anyone reading, and please correct if found any mistake.

Experienced users of any of these devices, but not limited to, please donate your opinions.

TP-Link UH720
The side 2 x 2.4Amp only does charging. No Data Sync.
I've checked with TP-Link Pre-sales support, the front 7 ports of this model does 1.5A charging AND data sync.
However, I did not ask about how many devices could it sustain at 1.5A.
But i bet at least 2 shouldn't be a problem and it's good enough for me.

TP-Link UH700
This Model, however, only the last 3 ports does charging and data sync up to 1.5A.

Pluggable USB 3.0 10-port hub
This I only the back 2 port does charging.

Plugable 7-Port USB 3.0 SuperSpeed Charging Hub
This one it says any of the port does 1.5Amp charging, definitely you can't charge all 7 ports at 1.5Amps, but it has a switching power inside.

The key here is to look for BC1.2 Compliant (Battery Charging 1.2).
Hopefully the BC1.2 standard could upgrade to support more than 1.5Amps soon.

Just checked and that $79.99 kit comes w/ a 32 GB Micro SD. This would be a complete package for you system-wise. Like someone else said, you need a controller. You can take advantage of the on-board bluetooth capability get a wireles controller set up with something like the SN30 Pro by 8bitdo.

After getting the ROM situation sorted (the Pi 3B+ also has wi-fi, so you could easily set up SMB shares via menus and transfer your ROMs that way) you could look into replacing the case you got with something a bit more period appropriate like a Super Tinytendo Case for a few bucks.

I think the whole mini SNES motif would be cool for your son to enjoy and really get a feel for the period at the time! Plenty of other options out there in terms of customization and controllers also, so you can do as you like.

Continuation thread (See first comment below for beginning)

Is That a Node in your Server Rack?

...”or are you just happy to parallelize me?”

Now onto the build for the server nodes themselves. These are pretty simple; again I went with the K.I.S.S. method of building here, and using the original HDD Caddies for the DS14MK2, I surface mounted the SBCs using these awesome double-sided adhesive standoffs. This allowed me to get the R-Pis and the like, very very closely surface mounted. This was an important element, since there’s barely enough space width-wise for anything too thick (that’s what she said).

It took me a few iterations to find just the right location within each caddy to mount the SBCs, but I finally got it down to a not-so-exact science. Each caddy/tray now comes with a naked (ripped off the plastic shell) 48vdc -> 5vdc Gigabit Active PoE Splitter, which conveniently has a micro usb charging end for the R-Pi power.

Additionally, some of the nodes also have a “UPS” battery backup system — ahem, basically it’s a USB Powerbank 3200mAh, which gets power from the PoE splitter, and then gives that power to the R-Pi’s. Nothing fancy.

Oh, some of the nodes also have a real fancy Movidius Neural Compute Stick from Intel. Cause, you know. Neural Networks and stuff.

• Each node is a separate unit, which processes data and vomits results back to the main rack server.
  
• Each node has its own UPS, Operating System, and is inter-changeable with others in the array.
  
• Each SBC in the node can be spiffed up with additional hardware, such as a sensor shield/hat (temp, humidity, light sensors, et al).
  
  Note: everything in the caddy gets mounted with heavy duty double-sided adhesive tape. This makes it easier to replace/reposition/remove certain parts if needed later on.
  
  
  Reference Photo
  
  Reference Photo
  
  Reference Photo

I have a similar dongle by Anker, and it works for what you describe. I tried with a DualShock 4 and works fine, just make sure to connect the dongle to power before connecting it to the phone. Also, make sure to power the dongle with a USB-PD charger. When I connected a USB-A charger to the dongle via a A-to-C cable, the phone didn't get almost any current, it said "slowly charging" but with my USB-PD meter inline it said about 0.08A was going in, which is practically nothing. The phone wasn't losing battery powering the dongle and DualShock, but it was losing battery just as if there was nothing connected.

This is a lot better dongle, btw, and cheaper with the current $5 coupon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HMLTCPL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has an extra USB-C port (works with USB-C headphones), and 100W charging capability, among other extra features.

Any USB-A port, or USB-A to USB-C cable will only charge up to 1.5A. Most USB-A computer ports though only support USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 power (500mA or 900mA). For a computer USB-A port to support 1.5A, they usually have a label indicating they are also "charging" ports, or you would just have to test yourself. If you're interested in testing your charging in different scenarios, I recommend buying one of those hardware USB-PD meters. I have the Satechi one but you may find others with more features or cheaper. Apps like Ampere are not accurate, they can only approximate, and especially with USB-PD they are worse because of the different voltages.

Great points, thank you.

The display is 1280x800 which is pretty close to most cell phones - im fine with a little empty space. But good point about the temperatures - can you recommend any 10.1 inch (9-10"x6-7") monitor suitable for the car? I live in ohio so definitely below freezing temps.

The USB hub is pretty generic. This is the one I have picked https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TVSLDND/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=A3BJFHXXMK8OTL&psc=1. I assume the HDMI out will mirror the phone, but if not I can always chromecast to the monitor.

The reason I am going display is because my car (350z) is uniquely suited to a large 10 inch monitor. https://workshoptwelve.com/nissan-350z/ .

In my past experiences, the HU never powers anything anyways - it is just a CD player/ radio. Is the quality between a normal HU playing an mp3 through an aux input any better than my setup?

What I am going for is a way to update my 2003 car, and since everything from music to gps to odb to cameras can be run through a cell phone, why not make that the focus? I could put a tablet instead of a monitor in, but would face many of the same challenges, and it would be less future-proof (a phone in 5 years is going to be faster than a tablet today).

But, the biggest hurdle is being able to charge the phone and use it in host mode at the same time - and if I can't overcome that then the whole thing is kaput.

Great purchase! Congrats....
I'd say- w/ those devices, you won't be pressing the throughput limits of your combination Thunderbolt 3/USB 3.1 gen interface whatsoever, so I'd go w/ the cheaper solution, which is a USB C hub w/ 4 USB 3 ports.
Do NOT buy any garbage brand. Here is the best you can get @ a very decent price:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Devices-Including-ChromeBook-Aluminum/dp/B00XU6IMWY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484015396&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+c+hub
Anker is the definitive MFi Apple partner on cabling; they make Apple certified, stellar products.
Note: I use this on mine, & have the EXACT same model as you!! =)

I've been looking for a good USB hub that won't have trouble hanging off the back of a Win 2. I have four of those 128GB ultra fit flash drives. I did buy one of these but it heated up almost inhumanly quickly, burning my fingers after about one minute of being plugged in, so I just threw it out. If anyone finds a good USB hub that can hold 4 drives and hang off the back of the Win without issue, let me know.

I actually think your best bet would be an USB drive. They offer faster speeds at the same (or less) cost. If you think Samsung works best with Samsung products, I recommend you this paired up with this adapter

Why is it better? The SD card gives you 95MB/s (Lots of Android apps can't be sent to your SD Card (without rooting) because they are really slow, imagine that using an OS such as Ubuntu/Debian) and 128GB for $81.38. The USB drive + adapter gives you 128GB, 150MB/s and an adapter for other things other than your drive for $49.94.

If you think losing an USB slot is just too much, you can always buy this hub instead of the adapter. Total: $57.94

You have room for a PCIe card?

https://smile.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=7+port+pcie&qid=1558542239&s=gateway&sr=8-3

These things are super clean rather than a dongle that hangs off the back.

https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-Extended-MacBook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B07L32B9C2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+hub&qid=1558542406&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Otherwise 2 of those are likely your best bet

In case someone in the future finds this thread:

I wound up returning the Dell XPS 13. One thing I should’ve paid more attention too - especially since I’d mentioned it in my previous post but obviously I ignored my own advice - was the ports.

Of the three laptops, LG Gram is 2.13 lbs for 13.3”, Lenovo Thinkpad X1 Carbon is ~2.5lbs for 14”, and Dell XPS 13 9370 is 2.65. This is important to note because the XPS only has USB-C ports, but the LG and Lenovo have multiple ports, including USB-C and USB 3.0/3.1 ports (USB A).

This is important because in my case, I wanted to do a clean install of Windows 10 on the Dell, but I didn’t have a USB-C thumb drive. I looked into getting a USB-C hub for the laptop (I also needed the hub so I could view my SDHC cards from my DSLR) but discovered that in order for the laptop to charge properly and the hub to work properly, you’d need a 60watt power supply (which is mentioned on the Amazon page.) The power supply you get with the XPS is only 45watts. This may not necessarily be the case for all laptops or hubs, but it was 1AM when I was discovering this so I was fairly tired and annoyed. So I started looking into more powerful power adapters and that’s when I realized I’d wind up with way more weight than I initially wanted.

Which led me to returning the Dell XPS 13. I really liked the build quality, especially the screen and keyboard, but couldn’t justify the extra weight. The laptop is the heaviest of the three I listed, yet has the fewest port options. It makes more sense to go with the LG or Lenovo (though ultimately I’d pick the Lenovo as the LG is super light but the screen seems to flex fairly easily).

Just my two cents and a lesson to everyone to do more research and not be like me.

I went the opposite direction. I chose Mac, and my work gave me a 15" pro with 4 ports, and this dual usb hub. So far, it has been a pretty smooth experience. I have (almost) fully gotten used to the keyboard, and the trackpad experience makes me wish KDE had such an experience oob. Being able to triple finger swipe across different workspaces is godsend. The whole os feels like Elementary OS in how restrictive it is (ironic). Simple things like setting up a custom shortcut require tedious workarounds, but with all that said, it is still at least a 100 times better than Windows (with Linux being 500 times better). You literally can't pay me to use Windows.

FWIW: http://amzn.com/B071JV4NPS

Good lil' USB-C to HDMI/SD card/USB dongle for half of what you paid.

Has some shortcomings but otherwise good unit, solid build, good customer service.

There are others of course, but this is the one I have and it does the job. It does not do Ethernet so you can keep that dongle.

You have 14 days to return the Apple dongles if you're so inclined!

> Poe raspberry pi

Okay, it is possible but requires a hat. Most of those are too tall to fit in the bay. This one might be good if it actually existed and someone was selling it. This is an option though and could be made to fit in the enclosure. Only thing left is some sort of quick connect for the Ethernet.

I'd definitely recommend a port hub since Apple loves taking ports away. This one by Hyper Drive had a good selection of ports: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAEI7J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TtmMDb7CEV2FW

Also, you should know that you can't replace anything inside a 2019 MacBook Air. Storage, Ram, battery, screen, nothing. So if anything breaks or needs to be upgraded, you're gonna have to go get it fixed every time.

I gotta know too. It’s a great looking USB hub and super functional too.

Edit: actually looks like this: https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-MacBook-Microsoft-Surface-Ultrabooks/dp/B00OQ0CYFE/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?keywords=usb+hub&qid=1558668546&s=gateway&sr=8-15

AFAIK, there is only the Pi PoE Switch HAT for a purpose designed PoE HAT. Silvertel did release the design for a PoE board that uses one of the little PoE power modules but that might be a little too much hassle if you only want 1 of them. Your best option is to just use one of the smaller PoE splitters like this one. The RPi Ethernet is only 100Mbps so you don't need the bulky VX-PI1000SP in your existing bundle.

I do a variation of this at home and at work with my MacBook Pro.

At work I have the CalDigit TS3-Plus plugged into my ancient monitor via a DisplayPort to DVI connector. It provides a full 85W to charge my computer at full speed. It's stupid expensive, but a couple of months in it works every time, and part of that price is getting a power supply in the box that powers both the TS3+ and the computer.

At home I'm currently using a UNI hub along with the 87W adapter that shipped with my computer. The hub eats some of the power, but it still pushes out 78W to my laptop, which is plenty. I also tried this Anker Hub and it works well, but it chews up about 20W, so my laptop would only get 66W. However this is one of the only non Thunderbolt hubs on the market that offers a downstream USB-C, which is awesome. The TS3 has 2 or 3 downstream USB-C, although maybe all but one are limited to 10Gbps.

Using a hub is not as fabulous as getting a monitor with everything you need built in. I would certainly prefer something that had 85W USB-PD and maybe usable speakers. All these hubs mean you need to have a separate power supply for the monitor and the computer. But it's cheaper since I already had monitors, and so far has worked really well.

I mean, here's a hub with those ports along with pretty much every other port in existance. I'm pretty sure something like what you're looking for exists out there.

Here's the one I picked up. a bit pricey, but works great! There's also one by Aukey that works well too, my daughter uses that with her asus chromebook here

Unfortunately the Pixel Slate's color doesn't match up with anything available, but function over form I suppose lol.

Here’s what I settled on for my wife’s 2018 MBP:

• Magnetic charging cable
  
• USB-C adapter with PD, HDMI, and USB 3.0
  
• USB-A to USB-C adapter
  
  
  I organized it all into a small zipper case for her. The only thing she’s used so far is the magnetic charging cable, which she absolutely loves. The other two will come in handy some day, but she mostly works in an environment where files are shared via Google Drive and things are printed wirelessly. She enjoys it so far, but her usage case may not be typical.

Shopping list:

2x USB-A to Micro USB B (3ft/.9m)

UGREEN USB Hub (3ft cable)

USB-A to Micro USB B (6in/15cm)

USB hub goes to the frunk port. Cable sleeved under shirt. USB hub strapped to the belt for the hip tracker right next to hip tracker (I did it with a velcro strap). 6in/15cm cable from hub to hip tracker. Both 3ft/.9m cables going from hub to each foot tracker sleeved under the pants. Relevant leg reveal: https://i.imgur.com/duMn6kA.jpg (USB hub was not plugged in)

Each charger in the picture has an orange light, which means they're charging. At the time of taking the picture they were at about 75% charge and after checking in 20 minutes later they were fully charged (white light). Tested my setup in VR, works flawlessly. Feeling of cables being there is minimal, maybe because my hairy legs keep the cables from touching my skin. Laying down is as comfortable as usually is with full-body. No additional weight can be felt.

Conclusion: A cheaper and in my opinion more comfortable solution than charging your trackers with a powerbank. Lets you be more active as well (don't have to worry about the powerbank falling out of your pocket and don't feel its weight anymore). Playing with full-body for as long as you want is now possible (that is, until your controllers die :P).

UPDATE: I had a 4 1/2 hour session with this setup tonight and my trackers never dropped below 100% charge. BIG downside to this though... and that is when you need to go to the bathroom. You gotta unplug the hub from the frunk then unplug the feet trackers then take off the belt before you can use the toilet, I take the feet trackers and the cables for them with me and the belt and hub I leave in my room. It's still worth it though!

Printing is perfect for this kind of small diy project. I used this usb hub https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Compact-Microsoft-Ultrabooks-etc-Black/dp/B00OQ0CYFE/ref=sr_1_14?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1521765982&sr=1-14&keywords=usb+hub and a regular PC power switch soldered to some 2m long wire that runs under my desk to my PC power port on the motherboard. I then designed the printed part to easily slot these things in and with a little sanding (and an oil rub) it was done. I might make a 2nd version with an sd card slot and audio out but it seems like there's tons of possibilities. Here's the thingiverse link for anyone interested https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2836684

I am currently using an Anker Classic 3-in-1. It only does Power Delivery, HDMI, and 1 USB-A port. It is all I need for now, but I am thinking of getting one with ethernet. I agree that I would not trust the cheap Chinese products with power delivery. Satechi is a good brand, just so expensive. I trust Anker products, they have always worked well for me.

Current: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RN6RTXD/ref=sr_1_10?camp=217145&creative=399373&creativeASIN=B07RN6RTXD&ie=UTF8&linkCode=as2&sr=1-10&tag=ianker-20

Near Future: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PPGWQ15/ref=sr_1_10?camp=217145&creative=399373&creativeASIN=B07PPGWQ15&ie=UTF8&linkCode=as2&sr=1-10&tag=ianker-20

USB-C or USB 3? I can't think of any audio interfaces that use USB-C (correct me if I"m wrong here), and most MIDI to USB adapters I've seen also don't use USB-C.

Actually looking at the specs for the macbook pro and holy god there's literally only 2 ports and they're both USB-C that's so awful. Like I said, most MIDI-to-USB adapters and audio interfaces use USB type A plugs, so you'll need an adapter or a hub anyway to be able to use them (might as well get both in one, imo).

If you get a USB C to USB hub, it would be USB 3 to USB 3, so they should all have the same speed (I think there are sometimes issues of having enough power to send to everything but don't quote me on that and as long as you don't have like 10 things plugged in you're fine).

Another option would be to get an interface with built-in MIDI support but tbh you'll probably need the hub anyways if you plan to do more than 2 things at a time ever.

(If you're not sure where to look, Amazon Basics has a Type C to Type A hub that's USB 3.1, or Anker makes a cheaper one that's got great reviews)

I’m pretty sure, although I can’t really find anything conclusive. I posted on the Lenovo forums, but they just redirected me to a thread where it was never resolved. I think for some reason the 13” can charge over USB-C but not the 15” I have.

Thank you. Do you mean a dock/hub like this one?

Yes. You always want to get "powered" hubs because there is a limit to what electricity can be sent over USB. You'll also want to get USB 3.0 so that you will have good speed with so many devices. Here's a good one: 7 ports, 10 ports

So here is what I have in my Tesla. Keep in mind that this is also being used with the Nomad wireless charging pad and I’ve had absolutely no issues since switching to this setup.

1. USB 3.0 Hub
   
   
2. MicroSD Card
   
   
3. Flash Memory Reader/Writer
   
   I previously fell victim to the repeated error regarding the read/write speed after the update back in the July/August timeframe. I can no longer find the article but there was a very detailed article on the subject with recommendations on the best drives etc.
   
   I can assure you 100% that this setup has worked fine for me without issue since purchase and that even involves having the wireless charging pad plugged into the USB hub. While it’s not quite as big as your drive it’s enough to last months without formatting it.

Not exactly a dock station but this one had everything I will ever need so I bought one. Quality is top notch.

Anker USB C Hub Adapter, PowerExpand+ 7-in-1 USB C Adapter, with 4K USB C to HDMI, 60W Power Delivery, 1Gbps Ethernet, 2 USB 3.0 Ports, SD and microSD Card Readers

Also I get great speeds from the ethernet port

I think you'd be best off getting a good USB mouse and keyboard, and connecting them to your computer with a USB to USB-C hub. Here's the first one I found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP

Hey the HyperDrive HyperDrive USB C Hub, Best Type-C DUO Adapter 50Gbps for MacBook Pro 2017/2016 13" 15", 7in2: USB-C 100W Power Delivery, USBC 5Gbps Data, 4K HDMI, microSD/SD Card Reader, 2xUSB 3.1 Ports by SANHO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAEI7J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4UkGAbKPHRB5S

I use it for dual monitors, 1 HDMI and 1 usb c to HDMI, has a pass through as well 😀

I have got PoE on my switch (power for cameras and an in wall tablet). I wold have to pull the cable but that's not too tough in my house. Would sure be a lot cleaner then figuring out normal person power. Thinking something like this might work:

https://www.amazon.com/802-3af-Splitter-MicroUSB-Devices-WT-AF-5v10w-microUSB/dp/B019BMFCH8

Most newer Mac systems send special Apple proprietary signalling over the USB data lines and allow the iPad to charge at the full rate. Apple is not strictly following the USB IF specs for power. These ports can indeed provide up to 2.1A for charging. When you introduce a hub, the signalling cannot pass through, and you iPad will not charge.

Here's a good read on charging:

http://plugable.com/2014/10/02/usb-stock-chargers-dedicated-multi-port-chargers-or-charge-sync-hubs-whats-best-for-me

There are hubs that definitely can charge iPads like these:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JEPIOOQ

and

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HARR2W

God that thing is enormous. Is it really a better solution than carrying a USB-C hub if you really need those ports?

I was getting blue screens and static audio blasting at extremely arbitrary times until i used this cord:




BATIGE USB 3.0 & HDMI to HDMI + USB3.0 AUX Extension Dash Panel Waterproof Car Flush Mount Cable for Car Boat and Motorcycle (6ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CG4FX3H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3E2VDb2VKXV9G




And using this usb hub between the HMD and the extension cord above:

Plugable USB Hub, 10 Port - USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JEPIOOQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


It's not the prettiest setup but I'm particularly proud that it is not ceiling hooks and retracting dog leashes.


I needed to be much more exact with the ceiling mounts, the cord hangs low when playing

The issue hasn't reoccured and I have gotten to finally play long enough to see a glaring cpu bottleneck

Anker USB C Hub (Model AK-A83520A1)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-PowerExpand-Delivery-Ethernet-Chromebook/dp/B07PPGWQ15/

£54 so a bit on the expensive side but I figured if it didn't work I could use it with a pc and add a second display or something. This is the model with Gigabit Ethernet first available on Amazon UK on 14 May 2019, there is a different 7-in-1 which swaps the Ethernet for another USB-C port and is £35 (AK-A83460A1) first available from 13 Nov. 2018, there are chipset differences so I have no idea if the cheaper model will work, it ought to but the sheer lack on information is a large part of the problem with finding hubs that work.

Performance is not stellar, but faster than a WiFi transfer for which I get about 10MB/s (80mbps) from both a Ubiquiti Access point using smb and a travel router with hdd attached using ftp. With the initial USB-C to A with USB-C adapter cable I achieved a stable but fluctuating slightly 12MB/s, with the Anker USB-C to USB-C cable I get a stable and consistent 17MB/s (136Mbps).

There is definitely a bottleneck in the hub, I presume this is the fault of the Tab S4 as this hub is designed for Chromebooks and Ultrabooks where a lack of performance would be noticed. When I plug in a usb flash drive directly into the S4 (Lexar P20 capable of over 100MB/s sustained read and write) it maxes out at 50MB/s reading, in the hub it only reaches the same 17MB/s. If you want 50MB/s performance then I'd consider getting a Samsung T5 portable SSD which can be powered by the Tabs S4, unlike portable hdd with spinning platters. If it wasn't for the fact I wanted support for over 1TB of portable storage, which would have doubled my costs, I would probably have gone that route.

One last piece of information which is very important. Writing drivers to transfer from external usb attached storage is apparently very difficult, the vast majority of Android Apps only manage a few MB/s when transferring. Even the increasingly popular MiXplorer v6 over at forums.xda-developers.com the developer was/has been/is struggling with achieving decent transfer speeds.

I've only found two file transfer apps which achieve decent speeds for usb transfers, the first was the infamous ES File Explorer before it was removed from the Play Store, the other is a pay app (cheap though at £3.14) called USB Media Explorer
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.homeysoft.nexususb.importer&hl=en

I’m using USB-C, which uses USB 3.1 and provides more than adequate power to run the peripherals. You can see the back shot image here: https://ibb.co/pRMJ69M

I’m using this extension (so I don’t always have to go behind the tower of my machine to plug in) paired with this USB-C hub. Works like a champ.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074K318JK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JDJzCb9JWTFBM

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4J1DDP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You’ll also want to consider running this batch file. Your devices may be running in Windows 10 with “Enhanced Power Management”. This disables that for Logitech / Saitek Peripherals.

http://uraster.com/en-us/products/usbenhancedpowermanagerdisabler.aspx

Just a note, that is very expensive. Idk about integrated solutions like the one mentioned above, and whether it's competitively priced, but you could put together a CD player, USB hub, and SD reader for much less money. And if you stacked them together, maybe taped them together or put them in a 3D printed enclosure, it wouldn't look much worse.

CD player: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83ZR7447

USB hub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GGYU8TC/ref=twister_B00FB50S0Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

SD reader: https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-microSDHC-Reader-TS-RDF5K-Black/dp/B009D79VH4/ref=pd_lpo_147_lp_tr_t_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WQ6PSHXB1G9XD2P2KW7G

The above costs under $100 (around 1/3 cheaper), plus the individual components have good reviews, and the USB hub is much higher quality.

That looks like a good idea. Is something like this a good idea/ https://www.amazon.com/HyperDrive-Type-C-Adapter-50Gbps-MacBook/dp/B01MUAEI7J/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536593731&sr=1-8&keywords=usb+c+dock

I have an Anker hub plugging everything in that you can't see, hiding behind the MacBook. This monitor is not able to power the MacBook as far as I know, but I could be mistaken, I haven't tried. It has two thunderbolt 2 ports, so maybe. The hub itself takes 23 watts so the MacBook ends up only take 38 watts from the included charger, and it charges fine. Yes, you can have a hard drive plugged into the hub for full time Time Machine. It's what I do. You can see it sitting on top of the stereo.

A 34" ultrawide is a big screen plus the 13" from the MacBook. At night it is a bit much, but I turn on Night Mode, and change the profile on the monitor to lower the amount of eye strain.

Thanks for the compliment!

I have that injector for cameras and it works well, though for cameras I wish I just had a Poe switch. For your application it should work much better.


That same company makes USB splitters that would be what you need to power it at the sensor side.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BLMWWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_18eFybEAT1HWF

Keep everything connected to one of these adapters and just connect the device to your laptop. It is essentially a breakout box and will make your life much easier. Not sure if that is the best one out there though.

[Upgraded] Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub, Ultra-Slim Data USB Hub with 2 ft Extended Cable for MacBook, Mac Pro, Mac mini, iMac, Surface Pro, XPS, PC, Flash Drive, Mobile HDD [Charging Not Supported]

Anker 7-Port USB 3.0 Data Hub with 36W Power Adapter and BC 1.2 Charging Port for iPhone 7/6s Plus, iPad Air 2, Galaxy S Series, Note Series, Mac, PC, USB Flash Drives and More

Decided to test these when I saw "1-4 players" on Sonic Spinball, and assumed it was played with 4 controllers, since I never tried multiplayer with that game back then. Turns out that Spinball's multiplayer is just sharing a controller.

All 4 Genesis Mini controllers (2 original + 2 RetroBit) connected to the hubs can navigate and activate menus/options/games in the game selection UI though.

• My mom came down from Kentucky for a few days for her job. Went to see some other family as well.
  
  
• Aced a Math quiz thanks to the internet. Found out that the class I'm in is a credited class, which means I only need 1 more math class and I'm done. - College
  
  
• Bought a few of these for my dad, uncle, and myself. I'm probably going to use it for a future computer.
  
  
• I think the only design I posted this week
  
  
• For college, I have 2 midterms next week(Writing and Math) that I'll most likely cheat on since they're both online. Gotta get those good grades.
  
  
• After watching Casey Neistat's vlog, does anyone know where he is?

i got this one and it seems to be quality for a pretty good price, unless you want more usb ports, that is

If you're using a controller with a standard USB plug (USB-A),which most USB controllers are, you'll need an adapter that's USB-A to USB-C adapter. The Switch Pro Controller for example uses a USB-C cable to connect as a wired controller, so you can use a USB-C to USB-C cable to connect it to the Switch in tabletop mode.

Edit: I'd actually be interested to see if something like this would work for using multiple USB wire controllers in table top mode.

Well you've got this as an option - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VKGFBM

You could just pop it open and possibly modify it to your needs.

If you really really really want to spend more time and money this page might be a good start.

https://www.chromium.org/chromium-os/hoho

I don't know what it is about USB 3.0 ports on default mother boards. They will work with your Oculus Rift for a few days or weeks and then just poop out.

You will probably have to buy a PCI-E USB 3.0 card to install into your PC or a usb3.0 hub.

Im sure you tried everything like reinstalling Oculus and driver's. I'm sure you even tried other usb3.0 ports just to have them work for a bit and then not. The only solution is this or this, which I have been using for a year

I ran into this issue as well. I am running x4 120mm (Push/Pull) on my H100i, and 2x 140mm top exhaust, plus the GPU Hybrid fan. I ended up putting the GPU fan back on the GPU header, but the other 6 fans are all controlled with one of these SATA powered PWM Fan Hubs from a single header. And this board also has less USB ports than my Z97 Impact board did, so I ended up buying a USB C to 4x USB hub to run my headset/wheel/etc off of. Bonus Build Pics

These are just a few I found. Remember to double check their compatibility with macOS as well as checking other websites for better prices.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q3HP6KQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r1tnDbAGSRGJM

https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HMX12ZM/A/caldigit-ts3-plus-dock?fnode=c868dc03b71d7658bc70482dcfd71f3ad98e49adb6d191cb71a0e446bcb747d0ee198d2d9c99ddbbd7990fc33788bc9e5b24fc1f1eace61b70350d35161a7ab789dad2cb6e61d2fa25e9a1a8899d1534639f7d5c4ee1379a1c24f53c842016ed

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMLTCPL/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DD8BLJW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8\&psc=1

\^\^\^ I personally have this and use it with my XPS 13. Since it’s just usbc I believe that it should work universally.

​

Edit: incorrect spelling

I would focus on portability and get a high-quality [X]-in-1 USB-C hub. Most USB-C hubs output 4K @ 30hz over HDMI, which is more than enough for most non-video applications. The Surface Go doesn't have a lot of horsepower, and will have a really hard time driving that many pixels that fast without taking a performance hit somewhere else. The main advantage of the surface hub is that you keep your USB-C port free, but it's not portable at all, so you'll probably want a [X]-in-1 no matter what.

I would go with this Anker 7-in-1. It's $50, has 4K@30Hz HDMI, a second USB-C port for data (so you don't lose your only USB-C port), and supports USB-C Power Delivery:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Delivery-microSD-Chromebook/dp/B07HMLTCPL/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=anker+7+in+1&qid=1558014499&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Looking for a USB-C Hub that has HDMI, SD Card reader and the ability to charge an iPad Pro 12.9 (2018)

Seeing a lot of reviews on amazon on must usb hubs that are conflicted about whether they will charge the ipad pro or not.

This one is the one I am looking at

Thanks

I got one on Amazon that works just great: Plugable 7-port USB 3.0 hub

So you'd even say it could not fit just one of these 40mm fans?

Super Tinytendo Case for Raspberry Pi 3, 2, Model B with Large Cooling Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074JJRWHH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FcYYzbH80DRWP

You could get a USB C dock which is much cheaper, but only comes with one video output. So for two monitors you'd need the dock and another adapter or dock for your other monitor. Up to you if you want to save money or have less cables.

EDIT: the HDMI to USB C adapter you linked is supposedly thunderbolt 3 so it should be able to power two monitors too. But you still need some way to convert USB A from your KVM to USB C for your macbook.

There's actually a number of Amazon Basics USB 3.0 hubs. There's a little 4 port one, a 7 port one, and a 10 port one. I'm assuming the underlying tech is all pretty similar, so it's mostly just a question of how many ports one needs.

I carry this one with me everywhere and use it with my MBX Pro, works great! One of the only ones I could find with all of the ports I wanted. Let me know if you have any questions about it!

USB C Hub, Sinstar 8 in 1 Aluminum Multi Port Adapter Type C Combo Hub for MacBook Pro USB C Hub to HDMI Male (4K) Type-C Pass Through, Ethernet, SD/Micro Card Reader and 3 USB 3.0 Ports (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VKGFBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1xHZCbXSR2MH0

Anker has a good selection and I highly recommend. Anker USB C Hub Adapter, 5-in-1 USB C Adapter, with 4K USB C to HDMI, SD and microSD Card Reader, 2 USB 3.0 Ports, for MacBook Pro 2019/2018/2017, Pixelbook, XPS, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H4VQ4BZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_S.DLDb6JG443N

Not sure which one you were looking at, but most likely it would not support two screens. What you could do is get a USB-C hub, plug it into one port. Like this. That will give you HDMI, some normal USB ports, and a USB-C power input.

Then you could just get a normal USB-C to HDMI adapter like this.

$43 all in, and more versatile.

Lets get fancy. Lets say you went with a 10 port hub. That means you only need 22,500 of them.

Took a model off of amazon, like this one.

Item weighs 1.3 pounds. Has a dimension of 5.71 x 2.96 x 1.06 inches.

Right off the bat, we have 30,000 lbs to worry about. Are you going to carry 15 tons worth of stuff?

Each one occupies a space of 17.915696 cubic inches.

That is 403,103 cubic inches. That comes out to roughly 100 beer kegs in volume. Imagine beer kegs stacked end to end, and that doesn't account for the usb cables, power source, etc.

Just saying, the logistics doesn't seem too plausible unless urgently needed for some zombie apocalypse :)

I've recorded using the predecessor to this adapter without any problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Reader-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B07H4VQ4BZ/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=usb+c+adapter&qid=1563734374&s=gateway&sr=8-10

​

I just the PreSonus 24c that is a direct USB-C connection and I'm happy so far.

Heya!

I'm not really a beginner when it comes to computers but I've just stumbled upon something that I cannot explain and I'd love it if someone could provide some info.

The TL;DR is that I have an SD card reader (a cheap kingston one) with USB 3.0 that has pretty poor transfer rate in the read direction. But today I installed a new USB 3.0 hub (a cheap anker one), I've plugged the hub in the same USB 3.0 port on my computer and I plugged the SD card reader on the hub, and now transfer rate are soaring, almost 3 times what I used to have.

I've done a couple of tests, transferring a bunch of files to and from the same SD card and same SSD, with the only variable changing is the presence of the hub between the SD card and the usb port. The results are clear. With no usb hub, I have a 75MB/s write rate and a 25-30MB/s read rate. With the usb hub I still have 75MB/s write speed and I now have a 75MB/s read speed.

I'm puzzled by this. I expected to get lower speed when using a hub, not higher speed. Anyone knows what could be the cause?

There are tons of these on amazon. Seems like they're just getting the same one from china and slapping their logo on it.

Here's one with a fan: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Tinytendo-Raspberry-Model-Cooling/dp/B074JJRWHH/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511984145&sr=1-3&keywords=raspberry+pi+snes

Used to use this: https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-Extended-MacBook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B07L32B9C2/

Now I use this: https://getjeda.com/tesla-model3-usb-hub/

The Jeda hub looks a *lot* nicer, but is clearly more money.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XU6IMWY/ref=psdcmw_281413_t1_B00XU6PM68

I just got one of those. It seems to work well, looks good, and is cheap. I have a space grey MacBook Pro but I didn't care about the color of a USB hub.

Edit: I'm realizing that's not really the same as what you're looking at now. It's still a good option if you just need to plug in some USB devices.

However your hint was great I'm going with this one:

https://www.amazon.de/Anker-Adapter-Delivery-MacBook-ChromeBook/dp/B07DD8BLJW/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=ce-de&ie=UTF8&qid=1542825982&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=Anker+3-in-1+USB+C+Hub%2C+4K+USB+C+to+HDMI+Adapter%2C+USB+3.0%2C+with+60W+Power+Delivery+Charging+Port+for+MacBook+Pro+2016%2F2017%2F2018%2C+iPad+Pro+2018%2C+Chromebook%2C+XPS%2C+and+More

So it turns out it does work, however I have to lose the one cable dream.

Question. I just want one monitor setup. But I also want the one cable dream. I’m looking just to get a cheap 4K screen using a regular HDMI since those are the cheapest.

My question is would I be able to use a usb c cable to a usb c hub (hiding the hub) and simulate the once cable dream?

Examples is using this to a cable like this and having the usb c supply charging and all connections

As far as trust-able names go, I find the pickings are fairly slim. You wind up paying a premium for it.

Anker, my preferred, has one without an SD slot at $60.

Aukey has one without the SD slot. $40.

Aukey has another, but it's missing the HDMI port. $17.

Lenovo's has all the bells/whistles, but comes to $58.

You have ask yourself if you're willing to drop that much on a trustworthy name, or if ones like this from Mokin are worth the $30 risk.

Here are the accessories I got to go with my SL3, they all have worked well for me:

• Anker 7 port USB-C dock
  
  • 2xUSB-A (3.0), Ethernet, usb-c power, SD, microSD, HDMI (1440p@60hz)
    > Dock draws 12W of power, so I recommend using this as a home dock that is plugged in all of the time
    
• Anker 5 port USB-C adapter
  
  • 2xUSB-A (3.0), SD, microSD, HDMI (1440p@60hz)
    > This dock has no power draw overhead, so I use it for travel. It also doesn't have power pass through or ethernet
    
• 6 foot usb-c to usb-c power cable
  > Slow data speed - is only meant as a charging cable
  
• 61W GaN power adapter
  
  • Takes advantage of gallium nitride so it is small compared to normal charger
    
  • Being 61W it takes advantage of the quick-charge that the SL3 battery is capable of
    > It is still a little bit slower to charge than the OEM 65W charger
    
• 20Ah 45W power bank
  
  • Gets me about a full charge
    
  • Charges at 25W
    
  • Outputs 45W so it charges relatively quickly, albeit not quick-charge speeds

Here is the one I use. Works pretty well for me. Just get some 3M velcro and stick it under your desk.

I bought 2 last time Arrow had a deal. I remember it arriving the following day I ordered (i'm in California). I picked up this SNES case from amazon. I loaded Retropie and got some classic SNES roms. I brought it to work one Friday and we had an impromptu NBA Jam and Mortal Kombat tournament. Tons of fun!

I've used these ones, and they work well. They are gigabit, so faster than Fast Ethernet speeds of a Raspberry PI, but I'm hoping a future version will see a bump.

I have two sensors hooked up to this https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Macbook-Devices/dp/B00XU6IMWY and it's working perfectly.

I use this with a usb mouse and keyboard when I'm on vacation and staying in a hotel, works perfectly.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-MacBook-Output-MicroSD-2-Ports/dp/B074J79WWJ/ref=sr_1_9?crid=341QKPE00E74P&keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi&qid=1549657964&sprefix=usb+%2Caps%2C260&sr=8-9

Does anyone have experience with Nintendo licensed refurbished stuff? I am looking to get a second dock and AC adapter on the cheap without bricking the console.

1. Should i spend the money for brand new? or try refurb?
   
   
2. Should i save the money and try an Anker USB hub or this?

Thank you for the help, could you check if this will work?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bus-powered-Shielded-MacBook-Raspberry-Laptops/dp/B00OQ0CYFE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1472924596&sr=8-10&keywords=powered+usb+hub

Also, I have seen this other cable, could this work?

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51wXUxsX2kL._SL1001_.jpg

So, the 3.0A goes to the Raspberry Pi, the 2.0 to the power supply, and the 3.0 head goes to the HDD. I'm not sure if this will do the trick :S

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

these guys

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

I agree. Speaking of which, does RetroPi support save states? Almost to the point where I think it'd be worth it to just make my own:
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/

https://www.amazon.com/8bitdo-NES30-Pro-Controller-Carrying/dp/B01LW7JJPJ/

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Tinytendo-Raspberry-Model-Cooling/dp/B074JJRWHH/

Little more expensive, but it'd be PS Classic, SNES Classic, NES Classic and more all in one...

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-3-0-Hub/dp/B00GGYU8TC

Great quality hub with a 60w psu

I have two of them (if you google i have posted a guide how to update the firmware on them as well)

It's a great little box. I have one in my HomeSeer installation. A company called TexasWifi makes an adapter to use a raspberry pi over Poe. I use it on mine:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BMFCH8/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DD8BLJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uzdQCbF0F5XMP

I have this one and love it, idk if u want the extra usb A though

I use the Anker dongle with my Pro. Works great.

Anker USB C Hub, 7-in-1 USB C Adapter, with 4K USB C to HDMI, 100W Power Delivery, USB C Data Port, microSD/SD Card Reader, 2 USB 3.0 Ports, for MacBook Pro 2017/2018, Chromebook, Xps, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMLTCPL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2gnjDbZ7Q0FJN

Looks great OP! Off topic, but you mention that you keep a second keyboard and mouse to control another computer. Why not use a USB switcher? I use this USB switcher combined with this 4 port USB hub. My keyboard and mouse plug into the hub and the hub connects to the switch. The buttons are quiet and the combination works really well. I use it to control my main rig, my HTPC, and a GeekBox that I keep on my desk. Beats keeping a second keyboard and mouse on your desk.

Unless of course you need to operate both computers simultaneously. At that point, it doesn't work too well since you will have to switch the inputs and wait for your machine to detect the hub being plugged in.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-3-0-Hub/dp/B00GGYU8TC
Just as good running 8 + 1 fan. I always leave room for expansion.

Thank you kind sir or mam. Would something like this work? Anker [Upgraded Version] 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub, Ultra-Slim Data Hub with 2 ft Extended Cable for MacBook, Mac Pro, Mac Mini, iMac, Surface Pro, XPS, PC, Flash Drive, Mobile HDD [Charging Not Supported] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L32B9C2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cQjqDbPT3R11K

Ah. I use this usb hub for when I’m using my mbp I will agree that the usb c is annoying but it’s really nice at my home setup as I use 3 monitors and speakers and power with one cable going to a usb hub.


USB C HDMI Adapter for MacBook... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074J79WWJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Personally I'm using this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PPGWQ15/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HHa1DbDDMXQ4Y

Very happy with it.

Sure, you just need a USB-C hub that has a power delivery (PD) USB-C port. Amazon has quite a few. This is the one I'm using on my 2017 MBP. I run my USB C power through this, as well as an HDMI cable ... and this connects through a single USB port on my MBP. fwiw though... this hub does act up sometimes with the monitor so you might want to check reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook/dp/B07DD8BLJW/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=anker+usbc+hub&qid=1556213211&s=gateway&sr=8-7

There is a nice Anker one on Amazon I have arriving this Saturday. I trust the brand, it has the ports I need and it is not that expensive.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Reader-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B07H4VQ4BZ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=anker+usb+c+hub&qid=1563422475&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Found this really affordable one!, has power and all! Looks good?

https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-MacBook-Microsoft-Surface-Ultrabooks/dp/B00OQ0CYFE/ref=sr_1_38?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539220297&sr=1-38&keywords=usb+hub+power

I actually considered this but never got around to buying a proper 19V power supply for my dock largely because I didn't know what connector it used (product page doesn't specify). If anyone can provide any insight to what this could use I would appreciate it!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GGYU8TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_ZyB8AbJYVGXJ7

UGREEN USB 3.0 Hub 4-Port with 1M Long Cable, High-Speed USB Splitter Portable Extension Data Hub Compatible for MacBook, Mac Pro/mini, Surface Pro, XPS, USB Flash Drives, HDD and More, Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OQ0CYFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K8WzDbPKP45CP




I bought this and using it to connect USB mouse and keyboard for gaming and works perfect.

I am sorry, I don't know exactly what they use, but I know there are products out there, fairly easy to find. https://www.amazon.com/microUSB-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry-WT-AF-5v10w/dp/B019BLMWWW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466715362&sr=8-1&keywords=raspberry+pi+poe

Or would something like this work as well? - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP since the mac has a thunderbolt 3 port

I am trying to invest the least on these things as I am on a tight budget and I can only afford so much. I tried looking around and I am unable to find a proper answer, hence this is my only forum.

Do ya one better, here is the link on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TVSLDND/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have 2 from Plugable. One with regular current, one high current (for running portable hard drives). I've been very happy with them.

I use any of the 100W USB-C hubs from amazon. Check this one out, or any of the similar ones. I have an S10+ and the tab S6 and it works perfectly on both.

I also have one that is rated at 60w, and it works well, but doesnt pass enough power through to charge the phone or tablet while using. (This hub also works on my HP Spectre laptop, so it get a lot of use.



Anker USB C Hub Adapter, 7-in-1 USB C Adapter, with 4K USB C to HDMI, 100W Power Delivery, USB C Data Port, microSD/SD Card Reader, 2 USB 3.0 Ports, for MacBook Pro 2019/2018/2017, Chromebook, XPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMLTCPL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GW-IDbJB9D74W

Ive tried out a few. If you want a nice affordable one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07TVSLDND?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

And then there's this one that's quite a bit more:
https://www.amazon.com/HyperDrive-Adapter-MacBook-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B07S7LVDC9/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=USB+c+hub+hyperdrive+ethernet&qid=1572309948&sr=8-3

802.3af/at is coming down in price to where you can get it at a reasonable price even for consumers. In fact just recently I purchase an 802.3af to USB splitter for less than $20. Now I can power my Raspberry Pi (albeit downclocked) off my POE switch.

Long term, the standards are better because it wont matter who you buy what from - it'll all work together. No true home user understands any of these PoE and Faux-PoE standards, nor do they want to.

For the next upgrade you could power that RPi via PoE... free up plugs on the back of your UPS...

I have [Sabrent mini 4 port] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LRYUJQS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00) and it works great. It is about the size of the zero itself so really small. It will block the hdmi mini port but if you run headless then it works well.

I am not tech savvy at all when it comes to additional gadgets like this, I went on amazon found this:
Anker USB C Hub, 5-in-1 USB C Adapter, with 4K USB C to HDMI, SD/TF Card Reader, 2 USB 3.0 Ports, for MacBook Pro 2016/2017/2018, Chromebook, Xps, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H4VQ4BZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FP93Cb1KNT15P

Is this what you are talking about?

Yeah I’m using this one USB C Hub, Sinstar 8 in 1... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VKGFBM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I may try to use a straight usb C to normal usb cord and see if that works.

I always appreciate when someone goes the extra mile to 3d print their own case. although, aren't usb hubs already under $8? https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Extended-MacBook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B07L32B9C2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+hub&qid=1573596004&smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DD8BLJW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


i use this anker one. HDMI port , Power pass through port and a usb 3.0 for mouse and keyboard. I use a logitech mouse and keyboard combo with one receiver so i only need one port but anker has another hub with 2 usb ports , hdmi and power in, for the same price. You could connect a usb speaker as well

I bought this, and it works perfectly. No ethernet though. I haven't used ethernet in years.

I was using an Anker hub with PD that I had bought for a Chromebook. It ended up being annoying because the built in cable to connect to my 2019 MBP was too short. I have my MBP on a stand and it would hang awkwardly in the air. Here is a link to the old hub: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook/dp/B07DD8BLJW

I had this laying around and decided to start using it again: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Gigabit-Ethernet-Converter-Support/dp/B014ZOJX7W

Instead of using an adapter for the existing USB A to B cable I bought a new skinny cable instead: Cable Matters Type-C USB 3.1 Type B Cable (USB-C / USB C USB B 3.0 / Type-C USB 3.1 to USB B ) in Black 3.3 Feet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UXKTJE0

This setup gives me 3 high speed USB 3.0 ports and gigabit Ethernet. Plus it's small and easy to pack up. I like that the new Cable Matters cable is detachable (of course) and it's extremely thin. Kinda cool. :shrug:

Here's the one i bought - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LRYUJQS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one looks good too - http://www.hhgregg.com/ihome-4-port-usb-2-0-swivel-laptop-hub/item/IHU550FB

I was looking into a usb-c hub for ipad pro 2018 and ipadOS13

​

I narrowed it down to these two because they have two usb-c port, one for data and one for charging:

​

Kingston nucleum

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076BGJXTG/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

​

Anker 7-in-1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HMLTCPL/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&psc=1

​

Anyone try these out ? The anker is cheaper.. wondering if nucleum is worth the extra price.

Did you take a look at this instead of a fairly permanent solution like soldering yours on? It's a Zero's worth more than your PoE splitter, but hey, it should work with any RPI

I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Macbook-Devices/dp/B00XU6IMWY/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1502716367&sr=1-6&keywords=USB+C+Hub

I'm hoping to at least get enough bandwidth / power for two sensors.

I’ve got one ofthese running one display, Ive got another usb-c to hdmi, and then I’ve got the apple a/v dongle with another HDMI cable connected to the AJA io 4K plus, which connects to the TV. That TV is mainly used for editing in final cut. It can be used as a third display but the IO 4K will take signal out of FCPX and then give me real time playback of what the exported video looks like.

why not just buy a small usb hub instead? The flash drive and phone would then plug into the usb hub. something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Premium-Aluminum-Rotatable-HB-R3MC/dp/B00LRYUJQS

Ah I hear ya, thank you for the answers

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Macbook-Devices/dp/B00XU6IMWY

is it this one?

Like someone else said, buy one of these:

USB-C HDMI Adapter

Have you looked at the HyperDrive USB-C hub for the iPad Pro? It has both a 3.5mm headphone jack and charger, and other ports like an SD card slot and HDMI

The other option could be to buy Anker’s high end 7-in-1 USB-C hub with 2 USB-C ports. One of which could be used to power the iPad and the other could be used to plug in Apples 3.5mm to USB-C adapter.

My refurb MBX Pro didn't come with the Matedock. Instead of buying the Matedock from eBay or Aliexpress I ended up getting this Anker hub. It does power passthrough even while connected to external display. Recommend it:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerExpand-Delivery-Ethernet-Chromebook/dp/B07PPGWQ15

This guy works very well for me.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BLMWWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Lk.4yb13CSXW0

Developer mode is set and reset by opening up the case and pressing a small button on the motherboard. To get out of developer mode you will also need a powered USB hub (like this one https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook/dp/B07DD8BLJW) and a thumb drive loaded with the original firmware.

Here is a link to the instructions: https://github.com/marcosscriven/galeforce/wiki/How-to-reset-to-normal-mode

Ok, I'll do you one better. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP/ref=sxin_3_pb?keywords=USB-c+hub&pd_rd_i=B01M4J1DDP&pd_rd_r=05171cff-858b-45e1-bd2d-7be1928c326f&pd_rd_w=xglHg&pd_rd_wg=KFhU0&pf_rd_p=9ef0c97a-254b-445c-822b-c948e2d94ddd&pf_rd_r=84T2BVJNK0PFASVSZD88&qid=1566600875&s=gateway
There's a hub without a built-in ethernet interface and there's a review confirming that it worked on the Switch. Just buy a separate Ethernet adapter too. The problem with the Anker is probably that the Switch OS just doesn't support that particular Ethernet interface.

Maybe a normal USB 3 type A hub with something like this might work?

USB to HDMI Adapter, USB 3.0 to HDMI 1080P HD Audio Video Cable Converter, Audio Output for Multiple Monitors, Compatible with Windows 10/8.1/8/7 (Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SJQG4BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q1eCDb73XR3X1

I don't know if there will be lag due to limited bandwidth but it may be worth a try.

Then the MacBook will need a USB A to C adapter.

Edit: For reference:

USB hub

[Upgraded] Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub, Ultra-Slim Data USB Hub with 2 ft Extended Cable for MacBook, Mac Pro, Mac mini, iMac, Surface Pro, XPS, PC, Flash Drive, Mobile HDD [Charging Not Supported] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L32B9C2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bbfCDbV71N06G

A to C adapter

Syntech USB C to USB Adapter (2 Pack), Thunderbolt 3 to USB 3.0 Adapter Compatible with MacBook Pro 2019 and Before, MacBook Air 2019/2018, Dell XPS and More Type C Devices, Space Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVX3516/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NcfCDb0BF1ZQJ

If you don't care about having a usable ethernet port, https://store.ui.com/products/instant-802-3af-to-usb-adaptor


Otherwise, something like the other people posted. I use this one https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019BLMWWW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to power and provide networking to a Raspberry Pi. Although it was much cheaper when I bought it...

Yeah, you have a Thunderbolt port (and a USB C port) . Why not use em.

This is what I use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4J1DDP/

I bought 2 recently and I can recommend one of them : https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Port-USB3-0-Charging-Indicator/dp/B00NAMKDDY

The other one is not that bad, but it's so light that it doesn't stay put and the shape / ports locations is kind of akward : https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-3-0-Hub/dp/B00GGYU8TC/ref=sr_1_25?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1468411112&sr=1-25&keywords=usb+3+hub

you want this, I believe. You can use the two charging ports for the iPads, everything else should be fine off the standard 900mA...

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-SuperSpeed-Charging-firmware-Motorola/dp/B00JEPIOOQ

I’ve got a Plugable one that has served me well. FWIW, if I was getting one to plug keyboard/numpad/mouse, I’d just get a USB 2.0 hub.

EDIT - Plugable 7-Port USB 3.0 SuperSpeed Charging Hub with 60W Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RM5OF70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ErHXCb87JW1NY

It’s gone up in price quite a bit since I bought it, though.

They’ve got injection molded Pi cases as well. Looks smoother. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074JJRWHH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wkt3Ab4B94BQ8

Amazon already sells these.

Found one for $30: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TVSLDND/?coliid=I1PH30VQDRR2BD&colid=20GG08L92YQQ5&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Found!

Exactly like that.
I'm going to try to find one with USB 3.0, but this'll work in a pinch.

I have the same setup except my dongle has an additional USB-C power port so I can charge if necessary, and is HDMI instead of VGA, plus I have a mini retractable HDMI chord.

Does anyone know of a USB-C to USB-C powered hub? Preferably one with USB 3.0, sd-card, etc. But I just want to connect my phone to my USB-C touchscreen monitor and be able to charge my phone. I saw Anker has something exactly like what I'm looking for, but it's PD and doesn't work with Dex

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https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-MicroSD-Delivery-Chromebook/dp/B071JV4NPS

if you're looking for the 'type', i have a similar one bookmarked from amazon but if you want same brand, it's not logitech https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Rotatable-Degree-HB-UMN4/dp/B00LRYUJQS/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486844640&sr=1-4&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A6801586011

If that cable is CAT5 or better you could just do PoE to this box with something like this and a PoE switch on the other end of it.

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https://www.amazon.com/microUSB-Raspberry-WT-AF-5v10w-Right-Angle/dp/B019BLMWWW

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Edit: Also, the Ring Keypad can run up to 7 months w/o a charge. I installed my Ring alarm system last weekend and as of right now, have no intention of running power to the keypad.

before there were raspberry pies, i used DreamPlugs for this purpose. i'd send one to customer with network problems and let it monitor the network and periodically send me diagnostics data.

i'd also use it to ssh in via openvpn and perform manual scans, maintenance, etc. these days, i'd just use raspi for that. much cheaper and not as outdated.

you'll need something like this too:
http://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Ethernet-MicroUSB-Raspberry-WT-AF-5v10w/dp/B019BLMWWW

edit: there are much nicer and smaller poe to microusb splitters, i'm just too lazy to search now. i bought mine for 5 EUR and it is absolutely tiny. just search the usual dodgy places like dealextreme, aliexpress, banggood, etc..

I was able to boot Windows 10 with my SSD plugged into this hub. Windows seems to run as fast as it does when the drive is plugged directly into the MacBook Pro. I plugged a Xbox One controller into the second USB port and it was recognized and worked fine. I didn’t have a lot of time to use it so I can’t say if it will have issues after extended use.

For something portable, Anker has a nice one, but the cable is only 6 inches and not removable. Has HDMI but no Ethernet.

For something that is going to sit on a desk all day, I like the Henge Dock. Do note that the cable that comes with it is rated for both power and data. The USB-C cable that comes with your Macbook is only rated for power.

Every dock I've bought from OWC has issues with the ethernet and some also have issues with the video output. The only way I've gotten them to work was by plugging dongles into the dock. I don't recommend them at all.

There are plenty of adapters that use 48v PoE as an input source and convert to something else. I'm particularly fond of these guys in conjunction with multiport injectors for devices such as wall-mounted tablets.

Also, before you go calling people ignorant, you might want to do a bit more research on some of the more obscure PoE variants that exist. 802.3af and 802.3at are all 48V, but that is just a standardized subgroup (even if it accounts for the vast majority of implementations) of the much wider world of power over ethernet.

I guess it's easier to understand if I link some stuff.

You can get something like this cable, this adapter, this hub, or anything else that looks similar. They all do the same thing so it doesn't really matter which. Any of them can connect to the bottom of the Switch to let you plug USB stuff in. Switch has the same kind of port (it's called USB-C) as the recent Macbooks so a lot of these things say they're for Macbook but they work with Switch too.

Only some USB LAN adapters work with Switch. Here's a few examples: HORI, Plugable, Cable Matters, AmazonBasics. Any of these work the same so get whichever one you can. They all work with the dock too.

If you don't care about using a LAN adapter with your dock at all, you could also get this LAN adapter instead which plugs directly into the Switch without needing another adapter, but you cannot use it when the Switch is docked.

TLDR: OP is simply extolling the virtues of this PoE 5V/2A splitter with micro-USB output ($18, Power-over-Ethernet 802.3af). No questions in there.

PoE is worth considering if you're going to run an Ethernet cable to a "remote" Pi. Too expensive for daily use or if your Pi is remote but connected via WiFi.

This is what I use. Solid build.
Anker 7-in-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JV4NPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yzuTBb7EJ8TSP

I will preface that no electronics are BIFL. If you had bought a USB hub 10 years ago it would have been USB 2.0 max, maybe even 1.0. So even if it still works it'd be slow and maybe incompatible.

Anker is a good brand without breaking the bank. I have some of their cables and portable batteries. Staying within that budget you could get a couple more ports.

You also may want to look at "port replicators" which are a bit more expensive but offers more kinds of ports at once.

I used this with my laptop

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4J1DDP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

you cannot extend it at all so the sensors will be plugged in close to your machine. I ran this off my USBc thunderbolt port with the 3 sensors and put my headset directly to the laptop. Worked fine for me. It does not like any extensions or anything else in the mix but it does work.

I used this and it works fine with my Surface Pro X: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HMLTCPL/ -- Not sure if it'll meet your needs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OQ0CYFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And if you want to make it powered you can buy a detachable dc power cord that is optional

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07L32B9C2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

The stl is in the link on the main post. If you want another format to tweak, pm me

> When she reaches the lockscreen she can't type her password because the keyboard thinks it's being repeatedly touched in a few spots making her touches practically inexistent. Any insight or ways around this that any of you can think of?

Something to try:

With an USB-C hub (link below) or USB-C OTG cable you can attach a mouse and/or keyboard even before being logged in (bluetooth keyboard mice usually don't work for this purpose)

• https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-3-1-Type-C-Port/dp/B01M4J1DDP/

How about this one? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-3-0-Hub/dp/B00GGYU8TC