Reddit mentions: The best utility knives

For starters, what condition are the miniatures in? Are they packaged still? Assembled but not painted? Are they painted already? Depending on where they're at will determine what you need to do first, so let's assume the worst and go on to the better.

If a figure is already assembled, you'll want to disassemble it. The best way to get the glue off in my experience is to soak the figure over night in acetone. When you pull it out, the glue should be easy to get off. You can generally find acetone in large volumes at hardware stores in the paint section. You can store the acetone and figures in a glass jar or any plastic container that has the recycling logo on it with a number 5 in it and PP underneath it.

If a figure is already painted, you'll then need to get the paint off, without damaging the figures. The best way I've found to do this is with Purple Power, which you can generally find at automotive stores: http://www.clean-rite.com/purplepower_industrial_strength_cleaner_degreaser.html. You can use the same type of container for this as the one mentioned above. Let the figures soak for a day or so, and use a junk toothbrush to get any leftover paint off.

Now that you've got the figures cleaned, you need to prime them. You don't need anything special for this, as long as it's good for metal, however, I recommend a spray on primer. My personal preference is Krylon's general purpose primer, and I prefer gray as opposed to white. You can usually get this in the same place you get your acetone, or you can get it at a hobby shop. http://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Stencils-Craft-Paints/Spray-Paint/Gray-Krylon-Indoor/Outdoor-Spray-Primer/p/1357

The next step is to get the rest of your supplies:

Super Glue: Can't put minis together without glue! I just use a bottle of Gorilla Super Glue. http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-super-glue

Painting palette: My preference is to use a wet palette for painting but there's definitely a benefit for having a dry palette available as well. Here's a link to a video on making a wet palette and the benefits of it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FmxJdZdKdc. In here, they use one from a manufacturer, and it's nice because it's easily closed, but you can just as easily and super cheap with a plastic plate (dollar store), and using a paper towel instead of a sponge. Just cut the paper towel to size, soak it, have a little extra water in there and put the parchment paper down, then add more water. This is what I personally do, and just stick it in the fridge when I'm not using it. If you have an option to make one that you can put a cover on though, that'd be best. For a dry palette, you can just get something like a ceramic tile from the hardware store for like, a dollar or less, and it's super easy to clean.

Brushes: You probably don't want/need to spend a lot on brushes, especially starting out. I'd recommend a few cheap brushes, generally you want the brush sizes to probably be between 20/0 to 2, and also get a small flat brush, preferably with a cat's tongue tip, but it's not necessary, as long as it's flat. It'll be very useful for dry brushing. My recommendation would probably be to get a variety of brushes from Atlas Brush Company: http://www.atlasbrush.com/brush-sets. I'd recommend Style 255-3PS, Style 55, and Style 58A. When your brushes start getting hard to work with, you can usually stick the tips in boiling water for a bit to get them back to shape.

Paints, Washes and Varnish: A lot of people prefer either Vallejo paints or Citadel paints by Games Workshop. My preference, especially since I use a wet palette, is to use Vallejo, though I use some Games Workshop paint as well.

In addition to this, you'll probably want some washes. I don't actually have experience with Vallejo washes - I've only used Games Workshop, but I prefer the washes in the type of container that Citadel uses as opposed to droppers, since I apply them direct from the container. I'd recommend at least Nuln Oil from them if you go with Citadel Games, though I'm sure a black wash from Vallejo is perfectly fine.

Citadel also has Dry paints, which are supposed to be good for dry brushing, but I've not had any experience with them. They may be a good idea for you as a beginner, since you'll probably not have very good technique when you first try to dry brush (I found myself, and still do a lot of times, using too much paint). You can usually find these paints at hobby stores, but at the worst case, you can pick them up cheap on eBay. There are sellers on eBay that have pick-your-selection listings, just search Vallejo Pick and you'll have results.

You'll also want a varnish to seal your piece when you're done. I prefer to use two coats - the first one glossy, then the second one matte.

I recommend you get at least the following: White, Black, Red, Blue, Yellow, Green, Brown, Silver, Matt Varnish, Gloss Varnish, Black Wash

Flocking and Turf: Far from necessary, but if you want to make your bases have that grassy look to them, you'll need this. I use Coarse Turf - Yellow Grass, and then just soak it in the appropriate watered down paint, dry it out, and glue it on with Elmer's Glue. This stuff is generally available at hobby stores. http://www.sceneryexpress.com/YELLOW-GRASS-COARSE-TURF/productinfo/WD0061/

Antennas: A lot of BattleTech minis, especially older ones, should have antennas on them. If you have loose figures, the odds are they have been lost and you'll need to replace them. I've found staples work very well for this. If they're still in the package, you'll see a thin metal piece in there that looks like mechanical pencil lead; you'll just need to cut it to size for your mini. Additionally, these are pretty fragile once you glue them onto the mini unless you put a hole in the mini for it to go in. The best thing for this is to use a Pin Vise and drill bits http://www.amazon.com/CML-Supply-Micro-Drill-Chuck/dp/B001RJE3X8. However, I've gotten by just fine using a safety pin and thumb tack.

Files and razor blades: You may need some files and razor blades to get rid of flash (pieces of metal from the vent holes in the mold that may be attached to the figure still) and seam lines. http://www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto-Knife-Silver-X3602/dp/B000V1QV7O. Personally, I've gotten by with just the piece on my nail clippers that's there to clean and file your nails with.

Water dish: You'll need something to put your paint water in. I use 3 dishes: One for clean water, one for paint water, and one with water and dish soap in it.

Mini stand: You'll generally want to have something to put your mini on while you work with it. If you don't, you'll end up rubbing the paint and primer off of it while you hold it to turn it while you paint. This can be just about anything. My preference is to use something about the diameter of a hex that's a couple inches tall and use Velcro.

Now, you need to figure out what the hell you're doing with all this stuff. I'm far from an expert painter, and I've learned most of my techniques watching videos. You can find a lot of information on YouTube. Here is some good stuff to start off with: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL10C32CB2CD611E84

Hopefully this helps!

EDIT: I'm not the best best painter, in fact I'm still pretty new to this myself, having painted probably just under a dozen minis myself. However, I figured that'd probably put me in a good position to answer your questions as someone who's coming from the same place you're coming. That being said, this is my most recent piece - I just finished the base and varnishing it yesterday: https://imgur.com/a/Vj6fI (Unseen Battlemaster)

New quality hand tools are fairly expensive. It's a niche market nowadays and there's only a few companies that still make hand tools that are worth buying. That being said ~$500 will get you a very decent set of hand tools.
The list of hand tools I'd recommend is;

Layout

• Combination Square - You have two two options here. You can go for something like this which is inexpensive and decent quality. You'll probably find that it will get sloppy and lose accuracy over time but it's a good option to get started. On the other side you can go for a Starrett combination square which is the best money can buy.
  
  
• Bevel Gauge - Brand isn't too important here. Most bevel gauges will be sufficient, just make sure the locking mechanism is easy to use. Avoid the ones with a disk shaped locking mechanism, they're a pain to lock. A bevel gauge shouldn't cost you more than $10.
  
  
• Marking Gauge - In terms of value for money I'd go for the Veritas marking gauge. This is one of the most useful tools when using handtools so it's worth getting something nice to use.
  
  
• Marking Knife - You can either make your own which isn't to hard or buy one. You should be able to get one for around $10. Something like this or this should be okay.
  
  Saws
  
  
• Crosscut Carcass saw - A carcass saw is a good size for general work.It's easily the saw I use the most. It will be a bit slow for ripcuts but it will get you by. A carcass saw can be used to cut most types of joinery such as tenons, dovetails, etc. I think the Veritas saws are great value for money.
  You'll probably want to add a tenon saw and dovetail saw somewhere down the track to cover all your bases. If you wanted to splash out you could go for the set of Veritas backsaws which is good value for money but is a greater outlay.
  
  
• Crosscut panel or hand saw - This is one tool where you might run into a problem buying new. No one makes reasonably priced quality hand saws anymore. You have two options here. You can go for a disposable contractors saw like this one which is cuts well but has a crappy handle. The other option is to buy and restore a vintage saw. Restoring a vintage saw isn't that hard. Theres plenty of guides and resources on the internet about it. Vintage hand saws are pretty cheap, you should be able to get a nice one for $10-$20 if you went that route.
  
  Chisels
  
  
• 1/4" and 1/2" Bevel edge chisels - Narex chisels are very good value for money. I personally wouldn't recommend getting a set. Start out with a 1/4" and 1/2" which are sizes that pretty much everyone will use then add more sizes depending on what you feel like you need.
  
  Planes
  
  
• Jack Plane - For new planes you have three options for brand here; Woodriver, Veritas and Lie Nielsen. Woodriver planes are made in China but are well made and a bit less expensive than the other two brands. Veritas and LN planes are both manufactured in North America and are top quality. By starting out with a jack plane or No. 5 you can cover pretty much any task. It won't excel at everything but it will get you by. A book could be written on exactly what brand and style of plane you should get so I won't go into detail. I would personally go for a Low-Angle Jack from Veritas as it is a very versatile plane,
  
  Drills
  
  
• 10" Brace
  
• 1/4" and 3/8" Auger bits
  
• Eggbeater Drill
  
  Like with hand saws no one makes hand drilling equipment any more. These tools are extremely common on the vintage market though. You should be able to get a brace and a few auger bits for $10-20 and a eggbeater hand drill for a couple of bucks.
  
  
  Misc
  
  
• Mallet - You can make your own or buy one. Style is based on personal preference. I like this type but I see a lot of people using carving style mallets now.
  
  
• Sharpening gear - You can start out with the scary sharp method which has a low outlay compared to other methods such as waterstones or diamond plates. It does have a on going cost so you might want to change to a more long term method later on. Just google "Scary Sharp" and you should find plenty of info.
  
  
• General tools like screwdrivers, hammer, clamps, etc.
  
  There's a million different routes to take when you start out so this advice is by no means the only way to go.

>I have seen a few posts about people who don't have flood insurance, or any insurance on this subreddit (I hope its appropriate to post here) and I wanted to help you help yourself prepping to go back in to your home. I work remodeling homes, and commercial buildings and have a few tips for when you go back in your house to save a few thousand dollars.
>
>First thing is first, you need to expect total losses on a couple items; carpet and padding is gone, 100% don't bother keeping it. Drywall and plaster that have been submerged are also toast. Furniture may be salvageable, but if it has cloth or padding, assume its a loss. If it isn't REALLY expensive (custom, antique, or all sealed wood) its probably done for. These 3 things can cause health issues if not taken care of immediately. For your families sake, please don't hesitate to throw them away. Its all replaceable, your health is not.
>
>I'll preface this with the fact that I have never worked with FEMA, but only insurance companies. My knowledge and experience comes from working with them and if you have more information than I do, please add.
>
>
>
>
>
>How to prep your house:
>
>The VERY FIRST thing you do, is go to your main breaker panel, and make sure the electricity is shut off in the room you will be working. The odds of you getting shocked are negligable, but Murphy is always lurking. Once you have the breaker switched to the off position of that room you can begin the demo process.
>
>Unscrew the plates on the electrical outlets, and cable jacks. This will take a flat head screwdriver. Save these in a plastic ziplock bag to put back on later.
>
>If you have baseboard, and want to try to keep it (personally I'd just chuck it myself usually) you will need a razor knife. You will need one anyways so if you don't have one, purchase one. I'd recommend this one off amazon, but you can find simple razors for a couple bucks. The problem with cheeps, is they break easy, and you'll need the knife for your carpet too. Anyways, cut where the baseboard meets the wall, as there will be a paint layer and/or caulking there to seal it. Then use the flat head to pry the baseboard back. If you are trying to salvage the baseboard, be gentle and take your time. If you aren't trying to salvage it, bust it up and take out some anger on it.
>
>Next is your drywall. Here is a drywall saw I recommend. Go 6-8 inches above the waterline and punch it through the drywall (you can use your hand, but a hammer doesn't hurt as much) and cut it all. Rip out everything below your cut and throw it away. Then pull out any insulation in the walls, as they are soaked and compromised as well. This will help prevent mold growing in the walls.
>
>Leave any and all plumbing or electrical work exactly how it is.
>
>Next comes carpet. The carpet is only held on by tack strips (thin wooden pieces, with little nails in them) along the edges. Pull up the edges and the rest comes easy. Since the carpet is soaked, its going to be extremely heavy. This is why I would purchase the better razor knife, and cut the carpet in to pieces to haul it outside. By leaving the carpet until last, this will help your clean up from the dry wall, baseboard, and insulation immensely. The padding underneath will usually be stapled, or glued down, just rip it out.
>
>Turn the breakers back on, and put some fans in there if you have them. The more air movement the better. Obviously a lot of people won't be able to afford industrial style fans, but here is one for 40 bucks. If you can spare it, it will make a huge difference. The bigger the better, if you have the cash.
>
>I would leave cabinets where they are, and dry them out as quickly as possible. They will probably be replaced too, but once they are dry they pose no health risk, and you will probably still be using them to hold stuff until a contractor can replace them.
>
>These few things will save you thousand of dollars later on, and more importantly will keep your chances of being sick way down. In the insurance world(again I've never worked with FEMA), you get money for demolition, so you can pocket a good chunk of that, if not all of it depending on the contractors needs, and scope of work.
>
>I'd recommend getting a multi-tool as well, but they aren't necessary. They are just helpful. Here is what I use.
>
>I wish I could be there to help everyone out, and I hope this helps in some way. I'm praying for you all / sending good vibes and cash to you, but I hope this helps you out even more. Good luck, and if there is anything I can do, please don't hesitate to contact me.

>I have seen a few posts about people who don't have flood insurance, or any insurance on this subreddit (I hope its appropriate to post here) and I wanted to help you help yourself prepping to go back in to your home. I work remodeling homes, and commercial buildings and have a few tips for when you go back in your house to save a few thousand dollars.
>
>First thing is first, you need to expect total losses on a couple items; carpet and padding is gone, 100% don't bother keeping it. Drywall and plaster that have been submerged are also toast. Furniture may be salvageable, but if it has cloth or padding, assume its a loss. If it isn't REALLY expensive (custom, antique, or all sealed wood) its probably done for. These 3 things can cause health issues if not taken care of immediately. For your families sake, please don't hesitate to throw them away. Its all replaceable, your health is not.
>
>I'll preface this with the fact that I have never worked with FEMA, but only insurance companies. My knowledge and experience comes from working with them and if you have more information than I do, please add.
>
>
>
>
>
>How to prep your house:
>
>The VERY FIRST thing you do, is go to your main breaker panel, and make sure the electricity is shut off in the room you will be working. The odds of you getting shocked are negligable, but Murphy is always lurking. Once you have the breaker switched to the off position of that room you can begin the demo process.
>
>Unscrew the plates on the electrical outlets, and cable jacks. This will take a flat head screwdriver. Save these in a plastic ziplock bag to put back on later.
>
>If you have baseboard, and want to try to keep it (personally I'd just chuck it myself usually) you will need a razor knife. You will need one anyways so if you don't have one, purchase one. I'd recommend this one off amazon, but you can find simple razors for a couple bucks. The problem with cheeps, is they break easy, and you'll need the knife for your carpet too. Anyways, cut where the baseboard meets the wall, as there will be a paint layer and/or caulking there to seal it. Then use the flat head to pry the baseboard back. If you are trying to salvage the baseboard, be gentle and take your time. If you aren't trying to salvage it, bust it up and take out some anger on it.
>
>Next is your drywall. Here is a drywall saw I recommend. Go 6-8 inches above the waterline and punch it through the drywall (you can use your hand, but a hammer doesn't hurt as much) and cut it all. Rip out everything below your cut and throw it away. Then pull out any insulation in the walls, as they are soaked and compromised as well. This will help prevent mold growing in the walls.
>
>Leave any and all plumbing or electrical work exactly how it is.
>
>Next comes carpet. The carpet is only held on by tack strips (thin wooden pieces, with little nails in them) along the edges. Pull up the edges and the rest comes easy. Since the carpet is soaked, its going to be extremely heavy. This is why I would purchase the better razor knife, and cut the carpet in to pieces to haul it outside. By leaving the carpet until last, this will help your clean up from the dry wall, baseboard, and insulation immensely. The padding underneath will usually be stapled, or glued down, just rip it out.
>
>Turn the breakers back on, and put some fans in there if you have them. The more air movement the better. Obviously a lot of people won't be able to afford industrial style fans, but here is one for 40 bucks. If you can spare it, it will make a huge difference. The bigger the better, if you have the cash.
>
>I would leave cabinets where they are, and dry them out as quickly as possible. They will probably be replaced too, but once they are dry they pose no health risk, and you will probably still be using them to hold stuff until a contractor can replace them.
>
>These few things will save you thousand of dollars later on, and more importantly will keep your chances of being sick way down. In the insurance world(again I've never worked with FEMA), you get money for demolition, so you can pocket a good chunk of that, if not all of it depending on the contractors needs, and scope of work.
>
>I'd recommend getting a multi-tool as well, but they aren't necessary. They are just helpful. Here is what I use.
>
>I wish I could be there to help everyone out, and I hope this helps in some way. I'm praying for you all / sending good vibes and cash to you, but I hope this helps you out even more. Good luck, and if there is anything I can do, please don't hesitate to contact me.

>I have seen a few posts about people who don't have flood insurance, or any insurance on this subreddit (I hope its appropriate to post here) and I wanted to help you help yourself prepping to go back in to your home. I work remodeling homes, and commercial buildings and have a few tips for when you go back in your house to save a few thousand dollars.
>
>First thing is first, you need to expect total losses on a couple items; carpet and padding is gone, 100% don't bother keeping it. Drywall and plaster that have been submerged are also toast. Furniture may be salvageable, but if it has cloth or padding, assume its a loss. If it isn't REALLY expensive (custom, antique, or all sealed wood) its probably done for. These 3 things can cause health issues if not taken care of immediately. For your families sake, please don't hesitate to throw them away. Its all replaceable, your health is not.
>
>I'll preface this with the fact that I have never worked with FEMA, but only insurance companies. My knowledge and experience comes from working with them and if you have more information than I do, please add.
>
>
>
>
>
>How to prep your house:
>
>The VERY FIRST thing you do, is go to your main breaker panel, and make sure the electricity is shut off in the room you will be working. The odds of you getting shocked are negligable, but Murphy is always lurking. Once you have the breaker switched to the off position of that room you can begin the demo process.
>
>Unscrew the plates on the electrical outlets, and cable jacks. This will take a flat head screwdriver. Save these in a plastic ziplock bag to put back on later.
>
>If you have baseboard, and want to try to keep it (personally I'd just chuck it myself usually) you will need a razor knife. You will need one anyways so if you don't have one, purchase one. I'd recommend this one off amazon, but you can find simple razors for a couple bucks. The problem with cheeps, is they break easy, and you'll need the knife for your carpet too. Anyways, cut where the baseboard meets the wall, as there will be a paint layer and/or caulking there to seal it. Then use the flat head to pry the baseboard back. If you are trying to salvage the baseboard, be gentle and take your time. If you aren't trying to salvage it, bust it up and take out some anger on it.
>
>Next is your drywall. Here is a drywall saw I recommend. Go 6-8 inches above the waterline and punch it through the drywall (you can use your hand, but a hammer doesn't hurt as much) and cut it all. Rip out everything below your cut and throw it away. Then pull out any insulation in the walls, as they are soaked and compromised as well. This will help prevent mold growing in the walls.
>
>Leave any and all plumbing or electrical work exactly how it is.
>
>Next comes carpet. The carpet is only held on by tack strips (thin wooden pieces, with little nails in them) along the edges. Pull up the edges and the rest comes easy. Since the carpet is soaked, its going to be extremely heavy. This is why I would purchase the better razor knife, and cut the carpet in to pieces to haul it outside. By leaving the carpet until last, this will help your clean up from the dry wall, baseboard, and insulation immensely. The padding underneath will usually be stapled, or glued down, just rip it out.
>
>Turn the breakers back on, and put some fans in there if you have them. The more air movement the better. Obviously a lot of people won't be able to afford industrial style fans, but here is one for 40 bucks. If you can spare it, it will make a huge difference. The bigger the better, if you have the cash.
>
>I would leave cabinets where they are, and dry them out as quickly as possible. They will probably be replaced too, but once they are dry they pose no health risk, and you will probably still be using them to hold stuff until a contractor can replace them.
>
>These few things will save you thousand of dollars later on, and more importantly will keep your chances of being sick way down. In the insurance world(again I've never worked with FEMA), you get money for demolition, so you can pocket a good chunk of that, if not all of it depending on the contractors needs, and scope of work.
>
>I'd recommend getting a multi-tool as well, but they aren't necessary. They are just helpful. Here is what I use.
>
>I wish I could be there to help everyone out, and I hope this helps in some way. I'm praying for you all / sending good vibes and cash to you, but I hope this helps you out even more. Good luck, and if there is anything I can do, please don't hesitate to contact me.

Hello all, in a previous post made yesterday, I had replied with a picture of a drawer of my Alex 9 unit and received a few of inquiries about how I made my drawer organizers. So, I decided to try my best to tell you how I did it. I apologize I wasn't able to make a complete step by step with a ton of photos, but this process was done over a year ago, and I wasn't really planning on doing it again since I finished!


Materials Needed:

Ruler

X-acto Knife

-I would recommend some extra blades as well-

--Foam Board (the more the merrier)--

Flathead Pins

--Contact Paper--


-The blades become dull fairly quickly, I think I used about four during the process-

--I was able to get a piece for $.99 at Michael’s on sale

---I decided to wrap each piece with contact paper because it makes it very easy to clean. In my actual vanity, I used fabric and it has gotten dirty and damaged and I 100% don't recommend it--


Template Materials:

Copy Paper or Grid Paper

Ruler

Actual makeup products


Steps:

1. I first made templates for each drawer. I found using grid paper to design the setup made it very easy, each block was marked as an inch. Using the actual product dimensions I was easily able to map out what could possibly go in each location. It’s nice to know that the height of a standard sheet of copy paper is the width of the drawers! Also, to note, I made sure to give a little space on each side of the product to give it some wiggle room. (The dimension of each drawer is 11.5"x20.5")
   
   
2. I then used normal copy paper to make a full-size map of each drawer. Then using that I transferred it onto the foam board. Measure twice and cut once.
   
   
3. Using a straight edge, I was able to make cuts of each segment. It's easiest to first cut the width of the product and then afterwards cut the height of each compartment making sure they all have a uniform width and height.
   
   
4. After each piece has been cut, I went ahead and wrapped every piece with white contact paper. Contact paper has a sticky back that easily allows it to adhere. Also, the back has its own grid so it was easy!
   
   
5. Once each piece was ready to go ahead and assemble, I made a new template. This one was to make a uniform depth of each compartment (my smaller compacts all had about 3/4 of an inch between each and larger had about 1 inch) A B. This also made it very easy to ensure I had a perfect right angle.
   
   
6. I decided to use flathead pins to connect everything together. I've seen previous YouTube tutorials that used hot glue, but that can be messy and difficult to work with. Also, if you ever need to redo something, you don't destroy what you had done. I used two pins on each side which really anchors the part. I will note, the tips of my index fingers went numb from doing this so much, but the feeling came back…eventually
   
   
7. Enjoy!
   
   
   Some other things to note:
   
   In my palette drawer, I created L shaped panels to allow for the palette to be better seen
   
   I also purchased from byAlegory a liquid lipstick and lipstick organizers to build around
   
   In my lipstick drawer, I purchased little glass beads to allow for the products to stand up better
   
   My paper towel drawer has a holder which I created using a wooden dowel and clay
   
   Also, I grabbed plastic liquid dispensers to easily get to my various liquids
   
   Managed to slice my finger open making little lids of acrylic to hold all my disposable paper products
   
   *Most of my other acrylic pieces have been purchased from MUJI
   
   
   I hope you enjoyed my ~teal battlestation~, if you have any other questions about it feel free to ask. And I'm sorry if it was unclear at all. And, I'm 100% aware I have a stupid amount of makeup that I've gotten over the years as a makeup artist, Sephora employee, and a true Make Up Addict.

• For containers I just use 1 pint cheap plastic containers that soups come in or deli give you. I guess you can find a nice piece of Tupperware that is about that size, and a taller one for taller prints. You could probly just ask the Deli guys at a food store for a few empty 1 pint containers + lids.
  
  
  • 2 containers - one with pure IPA and one with clean water. Good lids that won't leak.
    
    
• 91% or 99% IPA for cleaning your build plate / resin vat / scraping tools / desk / etc. and for using in the print wash container. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABPUGH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• More gloves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CF49NJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My palm width is about 3.6 inches / 9.2 cm and I bought the XL which fit ok.
  
  
• More paint strainers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQELZ7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Better removal tools: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Also get some Xacto knives + extra blades + sand paper sheets in varying grit 300-400 count for smoothing off support marks. https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Safety/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527015690&sr=8-6&keywords=xacto+blade
  
  Try to find the flexible sand paper sheets that are meant to be hand-used. I found them in Loews 3m brand, this is the exact type of sheets i use: https://www.amazon.com/3M-COMPANY-28320SB-UF4-320G-Sandpaper/dp/B00PPD1CYA/ref=sr_1_7?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1527015867&sr=8-7&keywords=sandpaper+320+grit+3m
  
  
• Find a source for cheap paper towels. I use the real cheap paper towels that you find in bathrooms, the stuff that's really stiff and crappy. I don't use name brands such as Bounty or whatever because the higher quality kitchen paper towels leave behind bits of cloth dust, which is unwanted for cleaning the resin vat / build plate / LCD screen. You'll also go through shitloads of paper towels and the higher quality towels are a waste of money. https://imgur.com/7XeelfV
  
  
• Get a couple sunglasses cleaning cloths. Not the microfiber cloths with the consistency of a bathroom towel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L77OXE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B009L77OXE&pd_rd_wg=OcvWJ&pd_rd_r=3AAAFBB1202BXG3K8QN0&pd_rd_w=cwumx That's just an example - you can probly finder cheaper and better sized/quality towels such as: https://www.amazon.com/MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-PACK/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0050R67U0&pd_rd_r=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ&pd_rd_w=0uPs5&pd_rd_wg=eAMNx&psc=1&refRID=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ
  
  I use these cloths on the LCD screen and the resin vat FEP sheet. After cleaning the resin vat FEP sheet and the LCD with paper towels, I give them a nice polish with the cleaning cloth to remove any other smudges or dust. Make sure to have a cloth dedicated to ONLY the LCD screen, as you want the keep the LCD screen pristine and free of dust and smudges.
  
  You'll also want a print curing station to harden the prints once they have been cleaned. I bought:
  
  
• A plastic cookie jar; clear plastic, round: https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/oxo-good-grips-reg-3-piece-pop-canister-set/3262796?categoryId=12605
  
  
• UV LED Light Strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZQZDBR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Heavy duty tape, such as duct tape or gorilla tape. I used black gorilla tape.
  
  
• Aluminum Foil
  
  

1. Wrap the LED strip around the plastic container to this effect: https://imgur.com/oB98Qxl . Make sure you wrap so that the power cable connector will be at the bottom of the container. Make sure you secure the beginning and the end of the LED strip to container with a piece of tape.
   
   
2. Wrap the LED'd container with aluminum foil - shiny side facing inward. Lay out a long piece of foil on the floor, shiny side facing up, just enough to cover the container's length once. Secure the beginning of the foil piece with a piece of tape, and then secure the end of the foil. Try to wrap without causing creases in the foil, keeping the foil as shiny and smooth as possible. Make sure your power cable plug in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   
3. Secure a piece of foil to the base, shiny side facing inward.
   
   
4. Secure a piece of foil to the lid, shiny side inward. Take a piece of tape and make a 2-sticky-sided loop to secure the foil. Make sure the foil is not interfering with the lid's ability to securely close.
   
   
5. Wrap the whole thing with your gorilla or duct tape. Make sure your power cable plug-in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   

Give me a minute, I can link you to a comment I found explaining it in depth

EDIT: I'm just gonna paste it here. For reference, I,believe priming is coating it in a thin layer of paint to act as a base. Use black primer for darker results and white for lighter. Credit to u/pyrese

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

Agreed with other posters; the plastic material is overwhelmingly likely to be HDPE. Maaaaybe nylon, but probably HDPE (given its semi-translucent appearance). HDPE is food and medicine safe, dishwasher safe, tough as nails, and easy to work with.

If you're thinking of sourcing materials locally, look for a store like TAP Plastics (this is my local plastic retailer on the west coast of the US). You could also order the stuff and have it shipped; here's a 2ft length of 1" HDPE rod on Amazon for $17.00, which would give you plenty of material to make lots of utensils.

That screw on the top is a stainless, pan head hex (or socket) cap screw, which is a nice fastener but not exactly the right thread for the material (HDPE can hold threads, but the thread type on this metal screw could easily strip it out... I know I sound fussy about the fastener specs, but it matters in this case, since you want to avoid having the screw loosen itself all the time). A better fastener would be one intended for plastic; you want thread rolling screws to get the right anchoring in the plastic. You can find a 50-pack of 1",stainless steel pan head thread rolling screws for $6.44 (again, on Amazon). You'd drill a pilot hole in the HDPE bar that's smaller than the screws' thread diameter, and the screws will self-tap and get good "purchase" in the plastic.

For the thumb detent/brace, this again is HDPE sheet that's been formed into that specific curve. The nice thing about HDPE is that it can be formed using a modest amount of heat; boiling water is all that's needed in order to get it malleable enough to easily shape it into the right profile. That looks like 1/4" to me. You can get HDPE sheet and cut it into strips using a plastic cutter ($5 on Amazon), then cut strips to length, form the strips to the right ergonomic shape, drill, and assemble. Here's a 1/4" thick, 12x12" sheet for $8.50.

Finally, to deburr and smooth the cut lines on the plastic, you can hit it with a propane or butane torch, with quick passes that'll melt the small burrs and help the other marks to level-out.

Another thing to note: this utensil adapter is precisely the type of use case where 3D printers shine, and I'm looking at my 3D printer and the quick 3D model of this I just built in CAD, and I know I can bang these off and ship them to you in no time. I hesitate, though, in recommending only 3D printed parts. I have hundreds of functional prints around the house/garage/cars etc, and I love making functional prints, but as good as I get at design, and the better the hardware gets, functional prints from desktop printers still have strength and durability limitations; extruded rod and sheet are just stronger.

​

All links in the same list:

- 1" HDPE rod

- Stainless pan head thread rolling screws

- Plastic cutter

- 1/4" HDPE sheet

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

IMHO you can wrap your roof without much issue, even with no experience. Here's what I'd recommend:

1. An Assistant - Get friend and ask them over to help with the process. The piece(s) of vinyl that you will be working with are very forgiving but once you remove the paper liner there is no going back. That second pair of hands and help will save you lots of time and grief.
   
2. Clean, clean, clean! - It is important to know that vinyl will show you any debris that is sitting on the paints surface - i.e dirt, tar, bird sh**, salt buildup (pretty bad here during MI winters), missing paint chips, dents, etc. If your paint is in good condition, the best practice is to clean the surface with regular water to remove any loose dirt. Followed by a wipe down with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol (found at all drug stores) until a clean, dirt-free surface is achieved. This will help you achieve that smooth, glossy surface we all love to see!
   
3. A Good Sharp Blade - You will have to cut the vinyl at some point and you'll need to be fairly precise so you don't cut too much off and expose the color of the roof underneath the vinyl in some obvious and aesthetically unappealing way. My recommendation is to get an Olfa Knife like this one and have it handy. A sharp edge will keep your cuts clean and neat(-ish). Be sure to when you snap the blade to expose the new, sharper edge that you discard the old portion safely. Nothing ends a wrap session faster than a trip to ER for stitches.
   
4. Don't Let the Vinyl Win - As this is your first wrap and as issues arise keep in the back of your mind that, "as long as you haven't squeegeed down that section, you have a chance to save the piece!" Patience is the most important tool for your maiden wrap. Give yourself time to look and see what you (and your assistant) are doing and DON'T RUSH.
   
   I would like to offer my opinion and response to a few things that u/urworstdaydreamr wrote that I felt needed some extra clarification:
   
   >...it seems the top and preferred brand is Avery Dennison. Followed by, in no particular order: 3M, VVIVID, and Orafal/Oracal
   
   Debatable - The top wrap film companies (by market share) are 3M, Avery Dennison, Orafol, Hexis, KPMF, Sott, and VVIVID. It is strongly recommended that you use 3M or Avery on your first wrap. They are the most widely used and are easy to find and purchase. They are also the most installer-friendly. Your preference will depend on a lot of small differences between the various companies. Please research not only how the vinyls install but how much residue and glue they leave behind when removed.
   
   >“Air release/egress/channel” is as it sounds. The better brands, like those mentioned above, have a backing on the film that allows air trapped underneath the film to be pushed out.
   
   Clarification - The backing paper has extremely thin "peaks" that run across the it and when the vinyl material is extruded onto the paper. The "peaks" in the paper form channels in the vinyl and adhesive which allow for air to pass through them when the paper backer is removed and the vinyl is applied to the car's surface.
   
   The "Material and Prep Price" Section - Debatable
   
   **PLEASE DO NOT BUY WRAP MATERIAL FROM EBAY OR AMAZON.** Buy from where the pros buy! Metro Restyling or Fellers are the places that we professionals buy material from. Both sites are open to the public and you can search for tools and a plethora of colors. Don't be swayed, buy good material.
   
   I have full faith that you can do this without having to take it to a wrap shop! Good luck!!

There's a lot of ways to approach stenciling. I just started about 5 months ago and have a decent number of pieces completed, but i'm still learning each time I cut and paint.

I'll be happy to share a list of what I use, but just keep an open mind and remember that there's not just a single way to do this.

[] Materials []

• I use #11 blades [Link]
  
• I alternate between these two knives [[link]
  (https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Designer-Hobby-Craft-X3254/dp/B002A2QTGK/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1501185899&sr=8-22&keywords=xacto+11+knife)] [link]
  
• Painters tape [Link]
  
• Spray Mount (Not spray adhesive - I just learned this last week) [link]
  
• 110lb cardstock paper
  
• Clear scotch tape
  
  
• As for paint I just started using Montana, which is a nice-to-have but definitely not necessary. I did a lot of my first pieces with Rusto - in general just stay away from gloss, super gloss, high gloss (it can work, but in general you will have an easier time with flat/mattes.) I went through a lot of trial and error with paint - I bought some Krylon paint which was at a higher price point and it was absolute shit (very watery and runny no matter how long I shook my cans.)
  
  
  [] General Tips []
  
  
• Making your stencils is definitely a part where people's methods differ (specifically in photoshop and breaking up your layers.) Just search YouTube and find a method that works with you.
  
  
• For larger pieces I use rasterbator. Stich them together with clear scotch tape and cut as usual. I tape both sides of the seams/edges.
  
  
• Take your time with your cuts
  
• Make sure your workspace is clean
  
• Let your layers dry
  
• Make sure your stencils are laying flat
  
• shake the shit outta your cans (especially with cheaper paint.) When you think you've shaken enough, shake for another 60 seconds.
  
• Mind the distance between your cans and the canvas (or whatever medium you're painting on)
  
• Take it easy on the paint, you don't need much to create a solid layer.
  
  
  Hope this is helpful, remember to share your pieces!

So I'll give you a link to a list that you may find useful for checking all the boxes on what you may need. I'll post my opinions below on some of the stuff I have found is most important. (I went through this process about 2-3 months ago)

http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/32

I LOVE this hobby knife Very important for removing mold lines, cutting off flash, etc. Very important to get one that starts and stays sharp

Primer is incredibly important. You want to make a suitable surface for your paint to adhere to. I would also look up some articles about how to prime. Contrary to popular belief you don't want the entire model to be the color of your prime when you are done! You want it to look almost speckled and have about 80% coverage.

Paint Here is a decent starter box of citadel paint, with a box and some 1/2 decent brushes. Obviously this is a bit pricey, but you get 45 paints plus some helpful extras

Brush Cleaner VITALLY important. Keeps paint out of the ferrule and helps your brushes stay conditioned and pointed

Brushes I just got a Winsor and Newton Series 7 #00, #1 and #2....WOW the difference between these and synthetic brushes is night and day. Painting tasks that seemed to take forever or require too much of a steady hand are MUCH easier now

Dull Cote Matte Spray Essential for providing a matte finish and protection to be able to actually use your minis. This product is excellent for that

Obviously there are many more items that are important to have that are described in more detail in that link I provided. But the ones above are the ones I would consider most essential

I have the Four Star model of that knife. It's been my go-to for years. It's greatest strength and only limitation is it's length; six inches is perfect for smaller work, especially in prep and Garde Manger. It's light weight and very 'nimble', especially in smaller work stations. Henckels is a quality product and if well cared-for can certainly last a lifetime.

Depending on your station you might need something bigger, either eight or 10 inches. Could be a slicer/yanagiba or a 'chef's'/gyotu. I certainly recommend a paring knife and IMO keep it at 3.5 inches. Longer gets unwieldy.

Again, depending on your station, I'd go with this if your on the line a lot. Good, general purpose knife and great for cutting sandwiches. If you have a lot of meats to clean then I'd lean towards a boning knife like this. I prefer flexible blades and have found my 5.5 inch Henckels to be much more useful than their longer models.

Knipex for Lineman's pliers: (with or without crimper). Their grip and cutting edge are significantly better than any other brand I've tried.

Wera for screwdrivers: I recommend the XXL 3 set. For sale here.

I still like Klein for strippers. I use the Kurve everyday and the Katapult for wire with thick insulation like PV wire.

Fluke for your meter. Most people recommend the T5 for basic stuff, but the 323 has a proper clamp and removable leads for the same price.

Knipex Cobras for your channel lock style pliers. These are absurdly good and have saved my ass a couple times.

I also recommend buying a Knipex Pliers Wrench. I own a 7-inch and a 10-inch pair and they're way better than a traditional adjustable wrench.

Stanley newest Leverlock tape measures are just as good as Milwaukee's tape and less bulky for half the price.

Milwaukee's Fastback series are the best utility knives by a pretty wide margin. I use the compact one, but that's a matter a preference.

I have the Compact Milwaukee and am not a fan; the blade comes loose all the time, especially when doing things like cutting drywall or removing wire insulation. I have used the Fastback Milwaukee though with good results, it’s just a lot bigger and doesn’t feel as good in the hands. I’ve owned 1 of the Compact, 0 of the Fastback.

The Klein pocket knife looking one is garbage for doing actual work with. I’ve owned 1 of these.

I have a SOG Flash 2 w/ serrations that I love but it’s my EDC and doesn’t live in my tool bag. Super sharp and the serrations slice though sheathing like hot butter. I’ve owned 4 of these.

I have a smaller one, a skelotonized Gerber w/ Lenox blades that I love as well. That one does live in my tool bag and is used all the time. The Lenox gold blades are amazing. I’ve owned 1 of these.

Milwaukee Compact

Milwaukee Fastback

Klein Electricians Knife

Sog Flash II

Gerber EAB Lite

I work with leather as a hobby and I'd be happy to tell you about the tools I use. Others may have different opinions of course.

Where should I buy my leather?
I get all my leather from Tandy Leather Factory. Link The prices are great, and they have a huge selection of quality, thickness, and sizes. Of course there may not be one near you.

If you have to buy from a craft store then you're going to be paying a lot, but that may be your only option. You should lookup "Saddle Supply" for your area too. The tools and materials are all the same.

What tools are a must-have?

• Rotary Leather Punch : This punches different size holes for different rivets, eyelets, or laces. The only downside to this rotary type, as opposed to this type is that you have to be within 2 inches of the edge of leather. But I find that is rarely a problem for me.
  
• Utility Knife AKA Box Cutter : DO NOT USE SCISSORS TO CUT LEATHER. If you ignore everything else, this is the one thing you should remember. Using scissors will bend the edge of leather all to hell. A new blade on a utility knife like this will cut through leather like butter. I use two, a regular size one and a small compact one for tight turns.
  
• 4 Prong Chisel : You'll use this to punch holes along the edge of the leather to sew it together. I use the 4 prong, but they also come in 1, 6, and 8.
  
• Rubber/Wood Mallet : For hitting the chisel. You'll probably say, I have a hammer I'll just use that. Don't, it'll mushroom your chisel and be loud, and destroy whatever you have under the leather you're punching through. Get a mallet form Walmart.
  
• Stitching Needles : For stitching leather together of course.
  
• Wax Thread : For stitching leather together. If you opt to use the hole punch and leather cording to bind your leather together it's going to look like a Boy Scout made it at camp. Trust me, take the time to stitch your stuff nicely.
  
• Rivets : These come in different colors, materials, types, and sizes.
  
• Rivet Setter : for striking rivets of course.
  
  Leather
  
• I use a 9oz leather for my goggles. It's thick and stiff (that's what she said) and is almost like balsa wood in hardness.
  
• For cuffs I'll recommend an 8oz leather. It's thick enough to be stiff, but will bend to a nice curve. Here are the cuffs I make. For the Straps I use about a 4-5oz leather. It's thin enough to bend easy, but thick enough to be strong. Of course, if you end up making something like bracers that need some extra strength you can go to a 6-7oz leather instead.
  
  Here is a project I'm currently working on that uses a mix of all the tools above. http://imgur.com/xEvP3
  
  Also, there are many many other tools you can add, but I think these are the basic must haves.

Most hikers don't use much on their multitool beyond about an inch of blade. If I had a really fancy one I might also use the bottle opener or backup flashlight, but that tends not to be very weight efficient. For a simple knife, I really like this one which I've been using around the house for about a month. It's only 3 grams. For an upcoming thru hike, I'm debating between it and this heavier knife which comes in at 23 grams or about .8 oz. I have more faith in the longevity of the latter knife since it's blades are replaceable, and as a bonus it comes with a bottle opener.

I think a lot of hikers break the book into quarters, and pick up the next section a few days before their previous section runs out. They have a family member or friend send it to them when it's needed. It's what I did, and it worked pretty well.

Edit: knife weights

http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74016-Basic-Tool-Set/dp/B000BMYWXI/

This is the only basic tool set I know of.

That said, I would recommend getting a nice spruce cutter:
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-2175ET-Professional-Sprue-Cutter/dp/B001TMZ7QA/

X-acto knifes are essential, such as the #2 large blade which is probably the most essential tool you will need.
http://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Knife-Cap-Silver-X3602/dp/B000V1QV7O/

Other miscellaneous tools you should get: Q-tips, fine and regular for cleaning tools, weathering with pigments, etc. Fine-tipped tweezers are also very useful. I recommend using Tamiya's extra thin cement, as well as regular cyanoadhesives for painted parts on your model. You will also definitely want some sanding tools, I recommend going to the Dollar Tree or w/e and getting a bunch of medium and fine nail filing sticks. They are cheap and work excellent on models. Tamiya also makes a line of very fine grit sandpaper (1,000, 1,500, 2,000, 2500, etc.) that can make a nice polished surface, as well as sand down thick paint.

Sure thing! A high-carbon blade would be good to sharpen, but will dull easily and quickly. A stainless steel/HSS blade is incredibly difficult to sharpen, but will hold and edge for a bit longer.

I didn't get to look at your exact examples because I'm on mobile.

Again, I don't know anything about what's available in Turkey, but an X-Acto knife (craft knife, hobby knife, etc) has extremely sharp, cheap, replaceable blades that are amazing for beginner carving. I know you were looking for an all-in-one, but I just recommend this because I think you'd have a better experience, and here in the US you can get an x-acto knife with replacement blades for ~$3 if you buy locally. Amazon has onefor 3.82 without replacement blades. They're super nice knives because if you decide not to use them for carving (you either upgrade or decide you don't enjoy it), they still have a billion uses around the house. And since they're the size of a pen, they're easy and discrete to carry! I would mail you one if I could afford postage. :-P

Conventions make me happy. Specifically anime and cosplay cons. There's this instant comraderie that you feel when you step through the doors. Everyone there is a stranger, but seem like friends you've known for years, just out of a shared love for media. For a day or two, there's no sense of time or worry, just enjoyment in the company of those around you.

Here is a carving knife that I would really appreciate. Funny enough, I'd be using it for cosplay.

)

Okay, I can talk scissors.

These look great for certain purposes, but to me they look like they'd be a nightmare in the kitchen -- hard and time consuming to dry, non-dishwasher friendly. For the kitchen I prefer come apart shears, which you can take completely apart to wash and dry.

For cutting paper, regular Fiskars will never fail you.

If you want to cut fabric, you need a dedicated pair of fabric shears. If you like to do anything fabric-oriented, it's worth having a separate pair because dull scissors will shred, rather than cutting. You can go with Ginghers if you feel like going actual BIFL, but I've used Fiskars for 10 years without a hint of wear on them.

For opening boxes, a simple or classic utility knife/box-cutter will do the job and keep your scissor blades from getting crap on them.

And for heavier-duty cutting (like zip-ties), get a pair of compound snips so you don't mess up the blades of your regular scissors.

Edit: it's hilarious to me that this comment has gotten so much attention. There's a lot of good info and alternate suggestions below. The compound snips especially seem to be overqualified for my uses, although as a person whose hands get tender and finicky, especially in the colder months, it's definitely nice to have something that takes the effort out of cutting those damn zip ties.

I have found the best way to open one of these is with a heavy duty utility knife. Something like this.

It works a lot better than a regular utility knife because it has a lot more size and weight so you feel more confident with it in your hand and can really put some leverage behind it. The one I have has pad on top of the blade to press your thumb against to help even more. I recommend finding one like that.

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:

Tools

• Nippers
  
• Hobby Knife
  
• Thinning Medium
  
• Glue
  
• Glue Accelerant
  
• Brush Cleaner
  
• Palette
  
  Sprays
  
  
• Primer
  ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  
• Matte Varnish
  
  Brushes
  
  
• Brushes
  ○ Round 0
  ○ Round 1
  ○ Round 2
  
  
  All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby. Nt all of this is required, but it is nice to have.
  
  This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)

One of my older comments about somem tools here: some links might be dead but you can search for a similar listing online

Chisels: Aiskaer White Steel 3mm 1/2/4/6 Prong DIY Diamond Lacing Stitching Chisel Set Leather Craft Kits(3mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014549STU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CRaSBbK7CG7MJ

Burnisher: YazyCraft Multi-Size Wood Slicker Leather Leathercraft Solid Wood Round Burnishing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZAV998/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aSaSBbMVYTCE1

Exacto knife: X-ACTO #1 Knife, Z Series With Safety Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PSaSBbF4PTFBC

Edger: Kinee 7 in 1 Pro Stitching Groover and Creasing Edge Beveler,DIY Leathercraft Sets,sew & Crease Leather,Wood & Steel Hand Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073F6WCBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GTaSBbESQHWPV

Glue:Fiebing's Leathercraft Cement, 4 oz - High Strength Bond for Leather Projects and More - Non-toxic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003W0GFTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-TaSBbWHMVA13

Thread: Rugjut 8 Roll 8 Colors 150D Leather Sewing Waxed Thread Cords,0.8mm,Each of 33 Yards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN8JMQ1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aVaSBbM0KJ3E7

Total: my math says around 35 +-3$ which is not bad considering you will definitely need these tools. And needles of course which can be which ever as long as they are dull and not too sharp pointed. I use John James needles in the smallest size but they have many sizes for larger projects as well!

I am using 4mm (nearly 1/4 inch) foamboard purchased from my local Dollar Tree. The foamcore from places like Office Depot is expensive enough that we'd be better served by just buying laser-cut MDF terrain. If I'm looking to experiment, then the "cheap stuff" is more than sufficient, and I honestly can barely tell the difference once the terrain is assembled.

As far as tools go, I am only using a metal straight edge, and a hobby knife. For a while, I was also using a tiny t-square, but I'll be damned if the factory cut edges weren't straighter than what I was getting from the tool. In hind sight, I should have bought on of these.

Getting the lines straight is a beast of a different stripe. That is patience put into practice. Try to draw out as much of the feature as possible so you can take your time with the cuts. Using the metal straight edge as a guide, I drag the knife just over the cut to break the first layer of paper over the foamcore so that the shown edge is as straight and clean as possible. It's super important to use a decently fresh blade. You know you're doing it right when the drawn line looks like it's being erased by the knife; it looks so weird! Once I've made the first cut, I'll line up the second. This cut is for the actual foam of the foamcore. For this cut, the central focus is keeping the blade as straight up-and-down as possible. I do this to ensure that the actual meat of the cut looks as perpendicular as possible to the surface of the material. The third and last cut is for the for the bottom layer of paper. Ultimately it's three cuts per edge, and it's time consuming, but you can't argue with results.

I hope I've answered your questions. If you have any more, please feel free to ask.

First I'll answer your last question, no, there is nothing wrong with not painting or going all out on a model. Like you said, you have only been at this for a few months and it is always best to start small. If you keep at it, who knows, months down the road you may be making your own custom models. That being said, lets see what I can suggest for getting the best out of your model without putting a ton of time (or money) into it. The first few things I would pick up are:

• A hobby knife for getting off the remaining nub, and cutting decals.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Cap/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1451350392&sr=8-4&keywords=hobby+knife
  
  
• Sanding sticks to level out the nub.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Squadron-Products-Value-Sanding-Stick/dp/B000CDR5K8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451350756&sr=8-2&keywords=squadron+tri+grit
  
  
• A marker for panel lining.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Uni-Pin-Fineliner-0-05mm-Black/dp/B00A7BSEKK/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451351047&sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=uni+pin+.5+fine+liner
  
  
• Flat topcoat, I know you said you didn't want to paint, but this is just a quick step to do at the end to make your model look less like a toy.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-53530-Acrylic-Interior-Exterior/dp/B001C42OXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451351086&sr=8-1&keywords=flat+top+coat
  
  The most important part is have fun with it, and do what you like.

Anything sharp. There are special carving knifes made by companies like Mora and Flexcut, but they can be kinda pricey for a beginner. I think a great place to start is a simple utility knife. It's cheap, easy, and the replaceable blades mean you don't have a worry about sharpening. It's not great for carving spoons or reliefs, but it will give you a taste. And if you're into it, you can check out more specialized tools like gouges and parting tools.

This has been brought up pretty often on this subreddit, and I feel like there is a division between two main theories on the problem:

• It's a software glitch / bad reporting / excessive app or system use.
  
• It's a hardware malfunction.
  
  I was in the same situation (very similar screenshot) and was told by a Google representative after a few e-mails back and forth that I was out of my warranty period. I finally got fed up with it enough that I bought a new battery and replaced it a few days ago. As others who have also replaced their batteries have said, it truly is like having a brand new phone. I highly recommend it, though the process is a pain in the ass. Being concerned anytime the phone is below 60% battery is no way to live, especially when it drops to that point so quickly after being taken off charge.
  
  Battery - $8.99 Amazon Prime; comes with opening tools but does not include a precision knife.
  
  Replacement back glass camera cover - $7.99 Amazon Prime; because the battery did not come with precision knives and I am not a patient man, so I clearly broke the glass.
  
  Precision knife - $3.58 add-on item; plan ahead. Don't be like me.
  
  Heat gun - $19.97 Amazon Prime; you can use a hair dryer but this is a ton easier.
  
  Tutorial
  
  If you decide to go ahead with it, best of luck.

I recently purchased a set of Wood River chisels (they are on sale atm) and just finished honing and sharpening them w/ the Scary Sharp method last night. I really like them. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/151268/WoodRiver-6-Piece-Bench-Chisel-Set.aspx

This is a cheapy gent's saw I got when I first got into dovetailing. I went with it for the same reasons you listed -- didn't want to invest a lot in a saw until I knew I would continue with handcut joinery. If you have the funds to go better, by all means. I really should upgrade by now but, hey, this saw is still working for me after 10 months, so why rush it? https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TS/item/PZ-30210

Scary Sharp supplies -- A kit of various grit sand papers to use. Get a granite slab or sheet glass and adhere these to it (they already have a sticky back so you wont need adhesive spray): https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/THS/item/ST-MAF.XX

Bevel gauge - I got my first from True Value and it works fine. I recently got another vintage one from the 1920s on eBay with brass edging. I have a thing for vintage tools :) : http://www.truevalue.com/product/8-Inch-Plastic-Sliding-T-Bevel/11078.uts?keyword=bevel

Marking knife/gauge - Everyone loves the Veritas marking gauge and I have it on my list of things to acquire eventually. For now, I'm using a cheapy marking gauge I found on eBay and a cheap marking knife from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CZ2FRIQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687642&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00B56B35Y&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=016MA016BD9H98J5CAQJ

Cheap carbon steel knives I've had my hands on are Glock Field Knife, the Cold Steel GI Tanto, and the Cold Steel Bushman.

The GI Tanto is very heavy and effectively indestructible. My brother in-law describes it as an orc knife. Easy to make a spear out of but not as easy as the bushman. Can be bent 90 degrees laterally and spring back.

The Glock is also indestructable and while not as heavy as the tanto it isnt light either. Very thick spine. Comes with or without a root saw.

The bushman is much lighter and thinner than the other two. Turns into a spear really easily. Can also be bent 90 degrees laterally.

Not saying any of these are the best there is but I have used them all and I couldn't see any of them ever breaking outside of extreme abuse. They're also a fraction of your budget so that's always nice. Don't expect them to be pretty. They're purely utilitarian.

This in a #4 is my go-to knife for almost everything. I also use it over my $100 Wusthof stuff. Also, the Oxo GoodGrips Professional line Santoku is very nice (about $20) and their 8" Chef's from that line should be good as well. I had a Wusthof higher end Santoku that my father loved, so I bought him the Goodgrips one, and frankly I greatly prefer the Oxo.

If my mother was looking to get me a knife(s) under $100, I'd ask her to order some combo from this set of things:

(The first 4 or 5 for sure, the rest if I felt they'd be useful)

http://www.amazon.com/Metal-Handle-Cleaver-7-75-long/dp/B0001CNK7C/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1317963649&sr=8-16

http://www.amazon.com/Good-Grips-Professional-Sharpening-Steel/dp/B000A13OFC/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1317963685&sr=8-1-spell (you need a steel to keep your knives usable)

http://www.amazon.com/OXO-Grips-Professional-2-Inch-Santoku/dp/B000A13OES/ref=sr_1_sc_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1317963685&sr=8-6-spell

http://www.amazon.com/OXO-Grips-Professional-8-Inch-Knife/dp/B000A13OEI/ref=sr_1_sc_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1317963685&sr=8-15-spell

http://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Cutlery-9-Inch-Polypropylene-Handle/dp/B0019WZ7EW/ref=sr_1_42?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1317963898&sr=1-42

http://www.amazon.com/Forschner-Victorinox-Fillet-Fibrox-Handle/dp/B000EZ0D4E/ref=sr_1_66?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1317963958&sr=1-66

http://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Cutlery-6-Inch-Straight-Boning/dp/B0019WQI04/ref=sr_1_29?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1317963898&sr=1-29

The Mora comes in a lot of different forms and the price is pretty nice Ex1 http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Classic-Craftsmen-Utility-3-9-Inch/dp/B003Z5CTV0/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1421064634&sr=8-19&keywords=MORA+fixed+blade Ex2 http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Classic-Scout-Stainless-3-3-Inch/dp/B00EAL17G6/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1421064219&sr=8-14&keywords=MORA+fixed+blade Ex3 http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Classic-Craftsmen-Utility-4-2-Inch/dp/B003Z5GRUY/ref=pd_sbs_sg_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=08QQT1AEGRYMCVC9NXTB I dont know much about Elk Ridge tho which model from Elk Ridge do you like? If none of the Mora's are of interest to you then maybe someone can find you a knife like the Elk Ridge your looking at. Or maybe someone who owns one can tell you the quality of them.

>When I attended a knife fighting school 20 years ago this is the folder that the instructors carried and recommended.

I know no knife fighters who use a rigid, then again most I know use custom made karambits (live in a bit of a Filipino area). The Osborne is a great knife I'll give you that but if we're talking knife fighting, I'd rather have something that stops the hand from sliding completely forward like the KA-BAR has (has a pommel too). A cheap Mora like this which I use almost daily seems like a slightly better choice.

How do you think this set compares to the Tamiya one?

I noticed in the pics of that set that it included a Xuron cutter. Would I get a better cutter with this particular Xuron cutter than the generic one included in the set?

I also have this for a pen knife and this for a file set picked out so I would have 3 main tools (cutter, pen knife, and a file set) for $22.14 total all with 2-day Prime shipping available (so I won't have to stare at an unopened box of Freedom 2.0 for a month waiting for deliveries from Japan).

Would I be missing something crucial if I went with just 3 individual tools above and are there better options for the money (that I won't have to wait a month for)? Any input on all this would be greatly appreciated.

I own the MAC chef's knife. It has held its edge really well. I honestly don't even maintain it that well and it still hasn't shown any rust or stains.

The Victorinox fibrox chef's is such a great basic knife. I just picked it up and it's holding it's edge very well. I also highly suggest their boning knife and paring knives which I've had for a couple of years now.

I got my X-acto Knife here

Has done me great justice so far. And, like Dan said, it definitely takes some practice to really use the knife to its full potential.

It's really difficult to layer like that when you're starting from a single hunk of foam. You could build it in sections, so the gold parts could probably all be carved separately then glued together at the end. However for the white/blue part I would do a single piece and just tape off sections to paint. Use a Dremel for details and smoothing. I like to use this box knife for carving large chunks and larger details: https://www.amazon.com/NT-Cutter-Auto-Lock-Stainless-Utility/dp/B005J0XDSW

As far as symmetry, it can be pretty difficult, especially with something with organic curves like this gun. Honestly I'd just say take your time and remember you can always take away more but it's hard to put it back. For making things smooth with a dremel go over the area gently with increasing grit level round drum bits until you get the look you want. For the engraved lines, there are pointy dremel bits called diamond point that would be helpful. Trace the lines on the foam and go over them slowly with the pointed bits.

This is the best answer, Olfa is pretty much the standard for good quality snap off blade knives, tajima is maybe slightly higher quality tools but blades are the same. If you are cutting heavy thick stuff i recommend the type with a thumbscrew for blade lock instead of the faster slide lock style as they sometimes can come unlocked when you are pressing down hard.

I use this one for light duty precise cutting: OLFA 5019 SVR-2 9mm Stainless Steel Auto-Lock Utility Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O87O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qqthyb2DSX0Q5

This is what i have for heavier stuff: New Olfa Limited NL LTD-07 Paper cutter knife from Japan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017M6QSI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_otthyb8RK59QF

Both are excellent and the blades are noticeably sharper and last longer than any other knife like this ive found.

Very nice quiver and thanks for my next project. I really love working with leather.
For those who want to get started it's not that expensive of a hobby. As for leather it's actually fairly cheap and most projects don't go over $25 in supplies. It's about $100 to get the tools you'll need and although their not top of the line they will last quite a while.

Tool 1 |
Tool 2 |
Tool 3
Tool 4 |
Tool 5 |
Tool 6 |
Tool 7 |
Tool 8 |
Tool 9 |
Tool 10

I highly recommend the OLFA brand of boxcutters - very sharp, great blades.

https://amzn.com/B000GIO2TG

Also, if you want to make them yourself, don't search for cardboard - search for chipboard. It's a lot heavier than most cardboard you'll find.

I used these to make some tiles for a game prototype and was very happy with the heft of them.

https://amzn.com/B006YKF9II

Airbrush

Compressor

X-acto -Z series blades are great.

For sandpaper you can just buy some popsicle sticks and 400, 600, 1000 grain, and then a buffing pad from a nearby hobby store or something like walmart even, it's all the same honestly. The popsicle sticks you can wrap the paper over to give you something to rub it against easily. Just practice on some of the parts that come with a kit that don't get used so you aren't eating away too much plastic.

If you're not opposed to using the standard single edge razor blades, the tap knives are pretty thin. About the thickness of a stick of gum... They're great and inexpensive to boot - I have them sprinkled around the house, car, and bags.

Edit for links:
A few options...

• Pacific Handy Cutter ($9.xx/dozen)
  
• Jiffi-Cutter ($6.xx/dozen)
  
• Lowes's Project Source ($0.98/each, comes w/ 6 blades; my personal favorite because it's extruded aluminum housing rather than folded)

The Victorinox ones are probably the best value around. Thats speaking as someone who owns several hundred dollars worth of mostly Shun and Mercer knives.

All you REALLY need is a

Chefs Knife

and a

Pairing Knife


to start with, those will handle about 85% of anything your ever need to do, but if you want to expand i would also get a


Boning knife

Bread knife

Slicer

If you eat a lot of fish maybe go with a more flexible fillet knife in addition to or instead of a boning knife.

And dont forget a honing steel.

And maybe a pair of shears and a dough blade/board scraper.

I havent shopped for knives in a long time though, and some of those links are old, so there may be better/cheaper/more cost effective/whatever options these days than Victorinox, but i stand by my type recommendations at least for the average home cook.

You might already have these things, all basic stuff and it's just gonna be a rehash of what I previously mentioned :

Get an xacto knife, basic and you should be able to get it at the local hobby shop or at amazon, very straight forward.

You might need craft tweezers. I have this kit but haven't started on it, but the tweezers can be really help for in tight spots. I have a needle nose kind (not sure that's what you call them) and the curved kind.

Glue, any one glue (like elmers or scotch) will work. There are craft glues you can buy but it's not really necessary

Painting Kiki, brush pens should achieve what you see in the picture. I haven't gotten a set yet so I can't exactly give recs. I have just been utilizing my fine point sharpies and the Sakura brand micro pens

Yes! What your looking for is something like this

The blade part unlocks then folds down to reveal a razor blade that is removable. Its trapezoid shaped so when one edge is dull, you can switch it around. It also folds up and is wonderful. I have had one similar for 6+ years and they work like a dream.

As monkeys says, I recently did an Airfix starter set. I was between houses so had very little stuff.

I bought a Airfix Electric English Lightning. If you search for Airfix starter sets you’ll find other options.

I used minimal tools:

• X-Acto craft knife
  
• Needle files
  
• Sanding sponge
  
• Sprue cutters
  
  You could find some of that grouped into one product if you look about like this.
  
  There’s some good YouTube videos to help a new user like this one from Airfix themselves making their own Spitfire starter kit.
  
  So here’s my album of what I used. And here’s the finished Electric Lightning.

Culinary knives:

Zhen brand - very, very affordable, beautiful, high quality japanese knives, and unlike Shun, Dalstrong, etc. are often available at markdown through clearance outlets like Wayfair. If starting out get one paring knife, one 7-8" chef or veg cleaver. Check at your local farmers market to see if there is someone to sharpen.

Work knife:

Get a folding knife that holds replaceable utility blades like this

https://www.amazon.com/Folding-Pocket-Utility-Knife-Lightweight/dp/B01MSWKPKF/ref=zg_bs_553240_3

Let's Celebrate!

Great contest. I could always use another one of these!

&amp;gt; unsoldering bigger chips     <br />
      <br />
Here is my suggestion, if you have to remove and IC (chip) and you will not reuse it.<br />
Here is an SOIC-16 pack image https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_Outline_Integrated_Circuit<br />
Get a set of dental picks, and a fine-tipped xacto knife (links for example)<br />
https://www.amazon.com/Equinox-International-Dental-Hygiene-Kit/dp/B00X9JE7LM/<br />
https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-2-Knife-Safety-Cap/dp/B000V1QV7O/<br />
.<br />
The SOIC leads look like &quot;legs&quot; of a person sitting on a chair. You can see the knee, heel, foot and toe.     <br />
Add a small amount of solder to the pads.<br />
Insert the pick tip between the heel and the package, pry gently and reheat the solder joint.<br />
When the solder is molten, force the pin off the pad, like straightening the &quot;knee&quot;.<br />
Repeat for the other pins. <br />
Since I an right handed, I start with pin 8 of an soic-16 package, then pin 7, 6... 2.<br />
Then I do pins 16,15,...10. Then I CAREFULLY remove pin 1 and 9 <br />
.               <br />
 **DO NOT use tweezers as a pick. They will bend an NEVER can be straightened.**

a scraper is a nice, niche tool that he would probably enjoy having -- or enjoy having another if he already has one.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001P0PHW/

similarly, one can never have enough marking tools (though bringing a knife to the office might be a no-no depending on your office culture):

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CZ2FRIQ/

Godhand nippers, IMO, is a luxury item. If you have cash to spend or really terrible at cleaning nub marks then having an extremely sharp nipper will help.


I have tried it and have to admit that it is great! Is it worth the money? No.


------


However, using a cheap nipper is definitely the main reason why you get all the stress mark. If you want you kit to turn out great, having a set of decent equipment will help.


I currently use this Tamiya nipper. My old one was also Tamiya but cheaper. It worked great though.


The trick is avoiding stress mark, beside having a good pair of nippers, is to cut away from the piece, especially when the gate is large. Slowly shave off left over nub with an extremely sharp hobby knife.



You can (and should) also sand the pieces starting from 800 grits and progressively work your way up to 4000 grits.

X-acto swivel knife for circles and the like:
http://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-X3253-Designer-Series-Swivel/dp/B001KZH27I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1342356227&sr=8-2&keywords=x+acto+swivel

X-acto swivel knife refills:
http://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-X253-Designer-Series-Replacement/dp/B001KZH27S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342356227&sr=8-1&keywords=x+acto+swivel

X-acto straight blade with refills:
http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X3311-Precision-Knife-Blades/dp/B0000DD1N4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1342356200&sr=8-5&keywords=x+acto

Those are the blades I started with, and they work great for me.

Any knife like that would work. I use the Tamiya hobby knife for it being comfortable in my hand. Plus it has a patch a rubber for it to not slip.
Tamiya Modeler's Knife Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042VKAP8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_j3CYxbZW7CF81

Don't buy that toolset, its very... I'd say low quality but its between low quality and medium quality.

Buy this instead.

• Clippers.
  
• x-acto knife
  
  You will be much better off. They are good tools and will last you ages. Also the blades for the knife should be replaced after one or two builds. But they are cheap and high quality. BE CAREFUL many, many cuts.... Also, You might want to start with a High Grade kit. You will learn a lot after building two or three of them.
  
  

It looks like people have mostly got you started here in terms of supplies. In terms of tools though, this is what I keep in my rebuilding stuff (linking to Amazon just because its easier):

• Small screwdriver set OR Hex set OR a combo set. Which one will depend on the RBA you get, but eventually you'll probably find yourself with ones that have Phillips and Hex screws.
  
• Butane Torch. You can get this same one on Fasttech for $4 if you don't mind the shipping time.
  
• Wire cutters, either full size or micros
  
• Pliers, I also have a set of channel locks accessible, but not in my normal kit, mainly to try and get my Bombshell Stinger apart
  
• A generic desk light or something like helping hands can save a lot of headaches.
  
• Cheap multimeters can be found from $5 - $20
  
• Exacto knife because knives always come in handy at some point (rule #9)
  
  Other generic stuff:
  
  
• Toothpicks (great for wrapping coils around)
  
• Cotton swabs, cotton balls and paper towels
  
• Bic lighter
  
• Scissors for cutting wick (I use the wire cutters, but if you have micros, 3mm wick might get messy/frayed)

I'd suggest checking out these instead. There are more notches on the spine, giving you a couple options for length.

I have a RUT v2, and they fit perfectly. I'd wager they fit yours as well.

Correct. I just did this in a 1x slot for an actual card and it worked great. Buy an x-acto knife. I bought this one on amazon and it works great! Took about 2 minutes to cut the back tab off...

If you want to get the spear just to have, then get it. However, I would recommend instead the Cold Steel Bushman, which, when needed, can be used as a spearhead. When you don't have it attached to a stick, it can be used as a versatile and dependable fixed blade. The quality of the Bushman's blade is most definitely well above the spear you linked.

There are two versions:

Cold Steel Bushman Knife With Sheath 95BUSKZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD4W54Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BnbSAbM66M45Z

And this one

201052 Cold Steel Bowie Bushman 95Bbuskz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AALX104/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wobSAb6C602H2

Big Left, top to bottom:

Gerber Gator Jr.
Harbor Freight $8 survival knife
KA-BAR #1213 Black Straight Edge
Ka-Bar Short Kraton-G Handle

Big Right, top to bottom:

Schrade SCHKM1 Large Full Tang Fixed Blade Kukri
Schrade SCHKM1SM Small Full Tang Fixed Blade Kukri
Schrade SCHF9N

Small stuff, top row, left to right:

Bessey D-BKWH Quick-Change Folding Utility Knife - Wood Grain Handle
Some cheap Husky multitool I got at Home Depot two-for-five-bucks back in '10 or '11
CRKT Eraser

Small stuff, bottom row, left to right:;

SOG Aegis Mini
Kershaw Thistle
Spyderco Resilience

-----

The Harbor Freight was an impulse thing. Same with the cheap-o Home Depot multitools.

The rest is pretty budget-conscious stuff. No matter what, though, even though they're not considered top-of-the-line or whatever, nobody will ever convince me that Schrade doesn't make some pretty damn good knives.

The sidebar has some great info on tools and what to do. Get an exacto knife and plenty of blades, get a self healing cutting mat, get some cardstock to print onto for a sturdy model, get some Aleenes tacky glue. Print the model onto the cardstock and then carefully and slowly cut it out. Fold the tabs, glue with the tacky glue (only takes 30 seconds to a minute to attach firmly) and continue! Take your time and cut as accurately as possible in order to get the best result..

Ideas:
-Focus most of our energy on the subways and put the flyers behind the glass. This is the best place for waiting people to learn about Bernie.
-Place Bernie stickers on polls, garbage cans, etc
-Chalk about Bernie on the ground!
-I am creating a Bernie "bat signal" to shine from my balcony to the windowless face of a nearby brick building using this: http://www.amazon.com/WASING-Lumens-Rechargeable-Searchlight-lighting/dp/B00V5OI3KO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 AND a cardboard cut out of this: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0886/0470/products/bernie2016-magnet_1024x1024.jpg?v=1441046067 WITH THE DATE OF THE PRIMARY ADDED, cut with this: http://www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto-Knife-Silver-X3602/dp/B000V1QV7O?ie=UTF8&keywords=exacto%20knife&qid=1459182606&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2

the flashlight reaches really far and it works!

Cold steel are super cheap and would give a good impression of being able to kill snakes. There's even a knife/spear that would theoretically be perfect for this.
amazon

Kitchen knife? Henckels international classic paring knife?

https://smile.amazon.com/J-Henckels-International-CLASSIC-Utility/dp/B00004RFMO/

I might not say that it'll last half a century but I'm happy with my atactical a1.

https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Bushman-Sheath-95BUSKZ/dp/B00BD4W54Q/

https://smile.amazon.com/Kershaw-Toughness-Durability-Edge-Holding-Capabilities/dp/B00AU6BFDK/

https://smile.amazon.com/Kershaw-Modified-SpeedSafe-Reversible-Glass-Filled/dp/B06XR8XTJP/

https://smile.amazon.com/Bondhus-20199-Balldriver-L-Wrench-1-5-10mm/dp/B00012Y38W/

https://smile.amazon.com/Estwing-Hammer-Straight-Smooth-Reduction/dp/B0000224VG/

Some wiha screwdrivers

Lifetime warranty https://smile.amazon.com/Fiskars-8-Inch-Forged-Scissors/dp/B00114LTMC/

https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Cutlery-6-Inch-Semi-Flexible-Straight/dp/B0019WQCNW

I absolutely swear by the victorinox semi flex boning knives. The handle stays grippy no matter how slimy/bloody they get and as long as you keep a steel close by it'll hold an edge through the whole thing. Also just from the nature of the job, boning knives get the shit beat out of them so I see no reason for a super high end one.

https://youtu.be/wijM-XI9rn8 and here's a quick rundown of some basic butchery tools you might not have considered from youtubes patron saint of rock n' roll butchering

Advice I got from this thread, pick up one of these when you can, great little twister.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXGNMV2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_t1_4VNvCbM29TDAC

Personal advice, always twist 90° and always twist clockwise. That way you know which way and how far when you need to untwist it.

Also (learned from other resident experts) an exacto knife (something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_t1_PZNvCbZ40WD5) is great for getting under those tabs when you need to pry them up. You can dull the edge a little, or live dangerously.

The fight pad frame has a thin indented line that you can run a xacto knife thru ( ill leave a amazon link below) so you layer it with the decals you can get the from amazon as well just type whaterver you want and the word "decals" after and you will see a few that sell 100count for $9.99.

The process

Layer the decals to fill space i suggest putting the ugly decals you dont want first and put the ones you do like last on top to show off the ugly ones are just to cover the area as the will become a background to the ones you put last. Then over lap the decals over the thin line around the frame of the fight stick and take the knife and run it down the gap to get that perfect cut and rinse and repeat.

As for the buttons just lay the decal over the button and the area you would like to place it then before peeling the back of the decal cut the round shape out of the decal then peal then place. Other than that be careful not to cut your self and have a trash can to throw the back of the decals aways smoke a blunt and have fun. And add fb_playerb on xbox so we can fight on a game good luck

X-ACTO #1 Knife, Z Series With Safety Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_McFhDb8DTM7XA

100 PCS Dragon Ball Z Stickers, CATTA DBZ Stickers Pack Waterproof Removable Vinyl Decals for Laptop, MacBook, Bottles, Skateboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SQ74R7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_udFhDbAZD19S6

So this is going to be my first model and want some general advice and whatnot. So I had a $25 amazon GC and wanted to try model making so i figured why not. So i bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUV1G2C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KRSWM6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055ANWKA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



So just want some advice about this stuff really. Like how to paint, weathering, all that stuff.

Gerber Pocket Knife - Exchange A Blade

With Titanium edge blades

I already have this, so I wont ask for any gifting.

It's small/thin, has a strong clip. You can replace the blades very cheaply, or get expensive ones like I posted (Irwin 50 pack for 12.69 Prime is a cheaper higher quantity option)

yes. If a decal goes over the top of a line, you can carefully slice the decal in half

with a hobby knife either while on the kit (not recommended) or before applying.

​

Ofc this will mean you will need angled tweezers so you can get the new decal adjustments on the kit in the spot you want them, because you are going to have to get the snug and fit along the panel line.

​

However \^\^\^\^\^ all that is the complicated way. If you are new and dont want to get crazy, just do the panel line either beneath or right over the top of the decal without splitting it.

​

I use a basic retractable utility knife and stand directly over the foamcore which makes it pretty easy to keep the blade straight up over the cut I'm making and deal with the gap. Your mileage may vary though.

My non-slip ruler is a T-square but the square doesn't seem to be 100% perpendicular, so I'm going to return it and just get a basic non-slip ruler. I've had good results just by measuring a couple points, marking them with a pen and cutting from point to point.

This is the one I bought and found that I didn't even need a few of the items. Here is the camera glass cover

An X-ACTO or other utility knife along with a playing card (used a Joker to not mess up my other cards lol) was also useful.

I'm in the US, but this is what I bought (with Prime shipping) from Amazon:

Tamiya Basic Tool Set, $18.90

Gundam Marker 2-pack Black and Gray, $8.99

Alvin 18"x12" Cutting Mat, $9.12

Not sure if this is what you mean by design knife, but you can get an x-acto pretty cheap as an add-on item. I just picked mine up from a local store. Link

How about a box cutter? Seems pretty innocent to me and could do a lot of damage if needed to save your life.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-10-099-Classic-Retractable-Utility/dp/B00002X204/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1501778453&sr=8-8&keywords=box+cutter

Same. I was happy when I found out about these. I dont feel bad losing them now.

https://www.amazon.com/091460-Jiffi-Cutter-Compact-Utility-Retractable/dp/B001B0BDVS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498097042&sr=8-1&keywords=jiffi+cutter

Get this: http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Cap/dp/B005KRSWM6

Very cheap, very durable, very sharp. You're going to gouge a few pieces slightly before you get better with your technique, but that's all part of getting better.

Good idea, how does this look?

X-ACTO #2 Knife With Safety Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V1QV7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9vr1BbPFG2HDV

Tamiya make a good Willys Jeep - the more recent version is item # 35219. Amazon link. Get him some Tamiya extra thin cement, an x-acto knife, and consider a starter set of model paints. For brush painting I suggest Vallejo Model Color paints - basic colors for the jeep would be something like black, white, olive drab green and a brown.

https://www.amazon.com/Screwpop-Stainless-Steel-Utility-Multi-tool/dp/B00UZHT432

love this

It comes with the waterblock/enclosure, backplate, tubes, radiator, fans, fan splitter, thermal paste, thermal pads, and screws for mounting fans to the radiator and the radiator to the case. You'll need to cut thermal pads. I used a pen-shaped razor, it was something like this: https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-2-Knife-Safety-Cap/dp/B000V1QV7O/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=precision+cutter+knife&qid=1563145258&s=home-garden&sr=1-3

You don't need to buy anything else, but you might want to. I personally used a pair of Noctua fans (NF-12 or NF-A12x25 work well). The thermal paste tube is really small -- I wound up using the whole tube, so you might want to have extra paste around as backup. I also used some Noctua wipes to clean my GPU die and the waterblock cold plate before assembly, but alcohol + coffee filters would work fine too.

Here's a Gamers Nexus video showing the installation process so you know what's involved: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPkREKaDqf4, there are other videos out there as well.

I use a piece of wood also, but plexiglass shouldn't be hard to cut with the right kind of tool, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C027ZE/. You can score it and then snap it along the edge of a table like you do when cutting actual glass. Or another way that's easy is if you have a circular saw and an old plywood blade. You put the blade in the saw backwards, so the teeth score their way through the plastic without ripping out chunks of it.

Not looking to hijack this thread, but while we're on the subject, has anyone tried a box cutter or utility knife? I have noticed that there are some lightweight ones (like 0.8 oz / 23 grams), and the blades lock. I think something like this would work for what I use a knife for in the backcountry (repairs), but haven't tried one.

E.g. https://www.amazon.com/Screwpop-Utility-Stainless-Multi-tool-Bottle/dp/B00UZHT432/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518113314&sr=8-1&keywords=screwpop+utility+knife+3.0

Mora 612

Its a very solid, no frills knife with good steel and characteristics for light carving and general utility. Far below your price point, but you'll spend the rest of you budget on a sheath that doesn't suck ass.

Haha I do not understand your use then. Ive had one for years of daily use... works fantastic.

Doesnt have to be a dewalt... just linked one similar to what i have. the stupid silver stanley ones work well, but i'm not a fan of having to take them apart to change the blade.

Yeah I’d pick up some of this permanent double sided Scotch tape and trim it with a straight edge and any hobby knife. X-acto is my preference.

Barbie Complete Looks Teen Titans or Barbie DC Fashion are both preorders. They are so cute! This is available now for crafts.

Thank you for the contest!

So much easier with a box cutter. Try this one next time https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GIO2TG/ref=psdcmw_553240_t2_B00UINRKTI

Really night and day (i started with that xacto knife 8n that pic)

That's an OLFA knife. They're made in japan and they're really nice.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GIO2TG/

I hope you're sitting down.

I got the Olfa knife, and it’s made taking caulk off much easier. Slide the blade under it on bottom and side and than use the hook on the olfa knife.


OLFA 1072198 LA-X 18mm Fiberglass Rubber Grip Heavy-Duty Utility Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GIO2TG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TX3mDbJPV5A77

They have smaller knifes called exacto knifes, personally i switched between knifes and plyers for the nubs.

X-ACTO #2 Knife With Safety Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V1QV7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SFTSAbXVVS3N3

Try this. If you're like me, you have so many spare cables that you won't mind ruining a couple.

Hmm...

It looks like you have $396.41 left over for a fountain pen!

If you're tired of it but don't want to spring for a specialized "clamshell packaging tool", the most dirst basic form of box cutter is a good tool for the job.

This is the hobby knife I use and I highly recommend it.

They sell a special pack to get the chair without the logo, and It's only 15$ extra.

https://usa.clutchchairz.com/product/pewdiepie-edition-throttle-series-brofist-removal-kit/

I am poor, so these are my budget suggestions.
You can spend less and get a great knife, the Condor knife and tool Rodan. $30.
I bought it and a Condor Kumunga because I could get both for the price of a BK2 or Izula. They are very utilitarian. Not pretty at all.

For that I have a #2 style Mora $15. There are many Mora knifes under $20 and any would be great for you. Stainless or Carbon steel, and Wood or Plastic for the handle.

Buying a compass you don't need anything fancy. Get a Brunton compass for again, less than $10. That exact compass has lived in my everyday backpack in an outside pocket, and shows no damage after 5 years or so.

As far as flashlights, that is a whole new world. I'd do some looking because you have a lot of choices these days.

I'm using a Streamlight Stylus Pro, again $20 and AAA's. And a few smaller streamights, the Nano at $8. My nano flashlight get's paired with my last hope knifes. A CRKT RSK MK5, at $16 and a Spyderco H1 $39 fully serrated ladybug3. Also I use a keychain Swiss Army Knife.

Don't most tradespeople use a utility knife like this? The blades in those are a different shape and significantly thicker than the ones used in a DE razor.

I like a folding utility knife. As such.

Are you referring to this or this? Olfa seems like a good option. I used to use their autolocking safety knife when I first started, but it wasn't the most comfortable (obviously since it wasn't designed for hobby work).

Yep.
Also, buy a half decent utlity knife style razor.

Like one of these, but whatever cheap one you can find at your local hardware store. Something with a handle...

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-10-099-Classic-Retractable-Utility/dp/B00002X204/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411362168&sr=8-1&keywords=utility+razor

Nah.
Here are tools that will get you going well, IMO.

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410T-Tapered-Tip-Shear/dp/B000IBQEEW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_469_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=31aHJgL3pNL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1QA091E0TTJ7J8FW3MKN

http://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Series-Knife-Cap-XZ3601/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QC3ZT6985MJV0ZTB72N

http://www.amazon.com/Piece-Precision-Needle-File-Set/dp/B006N3EPKE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453474293&sr=8-3&keywords=needle+files

I have found the Lenox Titanium Utility Blades are worth the price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009ENCUW

I ordered one on amazon a few months ago.

OLFA 5019 SVR-2 9mm Stainless Steel Auto-Lock Utility Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O87O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NqQ8BbEWEG8VN

Edit: spelling

United Cutlery isn't really known for reliability or quality control, and I'm seeing that hollow handle as a major failure point. The AUS 6 steel isn't amazing either. I think you'd be much better suited with the Cold Steel above, which is the same price as the SoA on amazon.

You got it. The main difference is the length of the blade. If you'd like a small guard to stop your fingers sliding up on to the blade, you could get a Classic Craftsman. The 612 is the same size as the Classic No2.

You could split the difference:

https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-D-BKWH-Quick-Change-Folding-Utility/dp/B000G7TLQ6/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1465678852&sr=8-21&keywords=box+cutter

This $3.97 addon is my cheapest! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lHNIxb2WR7KGZ

For a large knife get a Cold Steel Bushman in S-K5 steel https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Bushman-Sheath-95BUSKZ/dp/B00BD4W54Q. For a small knife Cold Steel mini pendelton in VG-1 steel https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Pendleton-Hunter-Secure-Ex/dp/B000WADUNW. And for a really big knife a Cold Steel Royal Kukri in 1095. https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Royal-Kukri-Machete/dp/B00BD4W1DQ

The blade is longer than what was used on 9/11.

If I'm running 175-200mg and HCG I need the .125 on pin days.


Get one of these- https://www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto-Knife-Silver-X3602/dp/B000V1QV7O

PnP Redesign

Materials you will need.

I've carried this one on my keys for the past 8 months. It's great.

Probably an Xacto Knife.

One of these guys?

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-300074098-Modelers-Knife-Pro/dp/B0042VKAP8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_21_tr_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=00E5YF1MS4GQMKR5WY0C

X-ACTO! It's prime time!

$8 - your size may cost more

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MUFHUM/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1


$6 - used this one, but consider a higher -rated cutter

https://www.amazon.com/Hyde-Tools-45730-Knife/dp/B000C027ZE/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=acrylic+knife&qid=1572996803&sprefix=acrylic+knofe&sr=8-4

nobody carry blades in their pocket?

I always have
http://www.amazon.com/Bessey-D-BKWH-Quick-Change-Folding-Utility/dp/B000G7TLQ6

and a lighter in my pocket.

https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-2-Knife-Safety-Cap/dp/B000V1QV7O

https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-2-Knife-Safety-Cap/dp/B000V1QV7O?th=1

Would this work?

Looks to be about $4.29

Didn't they use utility knives?

I use a small x-acto blade to sharpen pencils. Like this

Just hold it over a trash can and shave away.

Apple iPhone 6s: work phone w/ dbrand Green Carbon Fiber skin

Samsung Note 8: personal w/ dbrand Black Carbon Fiber skin

Custom Genuine Leather bi-fold wallet by local professional

Work keys, sim popper and tile

Samsung Gear S3 Classic w/ band from amazon

Black screen cleaning cloth

OLFA SVR-2 knife

Pilot G-2 0.38 Blue pen

Nametag

BeatsX Blue

{This]..(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gerber-EAB-Lite-Box-Opener-Money-Clip-31-000345-NEW/370599822514?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D333005%26algo%3DRIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D16726%26meid%3D225507393743323350%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D7905%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D171031980156%26)
Plus this
=Success

All I did was draw the eye on the pumpkin, trace that out with an Xacto Knife, then scrape off the rind and enough skin to let light through using these sculpting tools. This pumpkin I did last week shows it a little better, still terrible cell phone quality :/.

Some will point you towards getting the tamiya knife, and here's a similar style olfa art knife. Note the replacement blades for the olfa. I also happen to use snap off blades, in addition to xacto and the tamiya knife. I have an olfa one. I happen to not use exacto knives for gundam anymore though. The tamiya model knife and olfa snap off meet my needs just fine due to the angles of cuts I tend to make and angle of the cutting edges of the knives.

And some sand paper, since you included putty.

And lastly, some cheap ass brushes to go along with good paint brushes; decent tooth pics (if you snap it off, the thin layers of wood can be a cheap fine detail brush)... etc.

update - here's where I am, progress-wise. I almost caved after the first attempt at drilling - the plastic melted to the drill. Problem is - I'm not entirely sure how to get the blade between the holes as you suggested, because even this blade + handle is too thick. Wondering if unhooking the coping saw blade and then re-attaching it to the saw so that the saw starts out connected would work. What do you think?

edit: sawing through the handle was fine with coping saw - it was hollow. But this part, the handle, is solid plastic. Maybe 1, 1.5 mm thick. (1.5 millimeters = 0.059 inches)

> using a marking knife instead of the pen to do the marking out would have helped with my chiseling too.

I'm a marking knife nerd. I have a few nice ones. Usually I just use an $8 Olfa snap-blade knife from HD since it's always in my pocket. The other secret weapon is blue painters tape. Sometimes I have a hard time seeing the knife lines. If I lay down tape first I can peel it away from my knife lines.

Not really, blade's about 2.5 inches long, maybe 1/2 wide, really thin, useful for cutting meat and cheeses for a quick picnic but not much else. Even cutting through fruit is a push for it.

That's my main use for a knife traveling really, cutting some stuff from the market for lunch on the go.

https://www.amazon.com/NT-Cutter-Auto-Lock-Stainless-Utility/dp/B005J0XDSW/

I use this X-Acto knife to cut off excess from the heads. Takes at most 1min.

an x-acto knife works wonders when trying to cut rounded edges

Here's a big fat messy shopping list I made for someone a while ago. You might find it useful too.

http://www.amazon.com/Quickshade-Ink-Warpaints-Army-Painter/dp/B00HC8D80W
Amazon.com: Quickshade Ink Set Warpaints Army Painter

http://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Technology-Zap-Zap-Adhesives/dp/B00SXJJ2QI
Amazon.com: Pacer Technology (Zap) Pacer Technology (Zap) Zap-A-Gap Adhesives, 1 oz

http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y
Amazon.com : General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z. : Brush Soap

http://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargame-Starter-Paint/dp/B01BJ55UDQ
Buy Army Painter Wargame Starter Paint Set - PLUS Promo Undead figure

http://www.amazon.com/280715-American-Accents-Primer-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6LLZW?
Buy Rust Oleum 280715 American Accents Ultra Cover 2X Spray Paint, White Primer, 12-Ounce

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6655-Needle-File-10-Piece/dp/B000NPUKYS?
TEKTON 6655 Needle File Set, 10-Piece

http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X3311-Precision-Knife-Blades/dp/B0000DD1N4?
Buy Xacto X3311 N0. 1 Precision Knife With 5 No. 11 Blades

http://www.amazon.com/Most-Wanted-Wargamer-Set/dp/B007H4YR8S
Amazon.com: 1 X Most Wanted Wargamer Brush Set

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI
Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter: Wire Cutters

http://www.amazon.com/Milliput-Standard-2-Part-Hardening-Yellow/dp/B011BO9R5W
Amazon.com: 2 X Milliput Standard 2-Part Self Hardening Putty, Yellow/Grey

Edit: Of, and I used this guide for making my Thinner. http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/15 But I'm going to experiment more, because this is not perfect.

Xacto knife or something similar. Back in the days I used to take the razor blades from the boxcutter at work and used those. I wouldn't recommend that on account of the fact that would ALWAYS cut the tips of my fingers.

I use this utility knife on the job and a No 7 Opinel the rest of the time, without the sheath.

I would drink diet pepsi and do silly things
Yay, add on! I broke the one I have now :(

I printed the giraffe on two sheets of 11x17" paper and taped them together (as seen in some of the other pictures for keeping track of pieces).

I then used a knife (similar to this one) to carefully cut out the triangles and leave the gaps... I messed up a few times and had to tape the map together.

Cheap alternative is this Screwpop utility knife tool thingie
It holds a razor, it has a bottle opener, and a magnet(a magnet?! gasp!)
$10, gets the job done, and cheap enough your wallet won't go FUUUUUU if you lose it

Get one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Folding-Pocket-Utility-Knife-Lightweight/dp/B01MSWKPKF

No worries about blade length and you dont have to be a knife fighter to use it.

This x-acto knife is an add on item on my $5 and under wishlist that I need. I actually ordered it two weeks ago, but the package got lost some how and I just got myself a refund :/

pay attention in class! Ironic, because I'm actually in class right now, haha.

What you need:

X-acto Knife: https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-2-Knife-Safety-Cap/dp/B000V1QV7O/ref=asc_df_B000V1QV7O/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167119535166&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3576300261824586112&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018839&hvtargid=aud-799728744414:pla-308484349331&psc=1

Chang of knife blades #11. You don't ever want to cut with a dull blade: https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-998B/Utility-Knives-and-Cutters/11-Replacement-Blades-for-H-998-X-Acto-Knife-Package-of-15?pricode=WA9175&gadtype=pla&id=H-998B&gclid=CjwKCAjw7uPqBRBlEiwAYDsr18MFtut5s8DKoa1EPpCHKfGuwUmYP0EN4khc-4M-UvalEfAyX71KMBoC-k4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

A cutting mat: https://www.hobbylobby.com/Fabric-Sewing/Sewing-Quilting-Notions/Cutting-Tools-Mats/Double-Sided-Self-Healing-Cutting-Mat---9%22-x-12%22/p/80665711

Glue. This glue, don't settle for anything less: https://brokenpaintbrush.com/plastic-glue/

Hobby Clippers to remove pieces from the sprue: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=asc_df_B00FZPDG1K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198070022856&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13952833326321162249&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9053103&hvtargid=aud-799728744414:pla-382997837730&psc=1