Since you didn't tell us which exact MicroCenter location you've got, I am not able to maybe suggest a few more parts to get from them locally. Some parts also may be out of stock.

But I decided to go a bunch lower in terms of budget compared to /u/Lolmuhhhhhhh 's great suggestion.

CS:GO / LoL are not demanding games at all and even this system is "overkill" for it, but hey. It's a very good system.

---

I'll provide you with my standard list of videos to help you understand why I suggest these parts.

I'll also give you a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99 @ Micro Center (combo)
Motherboard | MSI B150M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $30.00 @ Micro Center (combo)
Memory | G.Skill Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $30.98 @ Newegg
Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $37.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $47.99 @ Micro Center
Video Card | Zotac GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card | $179.99 @ Amazon
Case | Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $65.98 @ B&H
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | $85.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | Acer G237HLbi 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $99.99 @ Micro Center
Cable| HDMI to HDMI (10 feet)| $6.50 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Adesso EasyTouch135 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $24.91 @ Amazon
Mouse | SteelSeries Rival 100 Wired Optical Mouse | $32.90 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes and discounts | No rebates!
| Total | $863.20
| Generated by Kiwiandapple |

---

####Learn about cool technology in only a couple minutes!

---

What is overclocking?: Here - 2:32 minutes.

What is the difference between i3, i5 & i7?: Here - 4:32 ◄ Important!
What is hyperthreading?: Here - 4:47
What is turbo boost?: Here - 4:05
CPU shopping guide: Here - 5:01 ◄ Important!
GPU shopping guide: Here - 4:11 ◄ Important!
How many cores do I need for gaming?: Here - 8:18 ◄ Important!
What is a motherboard?: Here - 4:46
Which motherboard is the best to buy?: Here - 10:07
DDR3 vs DDR4 speeds: Here - 8:01
What are benchmarks?: Here - 5:21
Pre-built vs building your own?: Here - 6:04
Optical vs laser mouse: Here - 2:10
SSD vs HDD: Here - 4:05
What is resolution?: Here - 5:22 ◄ Important!
Different panel types: Here - 2:29 ◄ Important!
Monitor refresh-rate: Here - 5:46
What is G-sync?: Here - 5:52
What is Shadowplay?: Here - 3:59
Case air pressure: Here - 5:21
Case fan orientation: Here - 3:42
What is a NAS?: Here - 5:06
What PSU to buy?: Here - 5:12 ◄ Important!
What does 80+ mean?: Here - 3:02

Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great YouTube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.


---

####Guides

---

Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.

How to build an Intel 115x socket PC?
This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short.
It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well.
I would suggest to install the aftermarket CPU cooler right away, then you don't have to clean the thermal paste.
I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.

How to install a 115x CPU?
Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
How to install thermal compound?
The temperature difference between the best and the "worst" thermal compound is a couple degrees Celsius. The temperature difference between applying thermal compound one way or an other.. is 0 degrees.
Be careful though! The only way that the temperature will rise is when you don't put enough. So it needs to have enough, but too much can cause problems as well. So don't go overkill either!
Thermal compound helps with the contact of the cooler + the CPU. They both have microscopically small gaps, which the thermal compound fills up to let the heat get too the heatsink.
How to install Windows 8(.1) or 10 from an USB drive?
You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
How to set up your SSD & HDD?
This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10.
How to use Ninite?
This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) & Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.

#####Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

> I'm gonna need extensions.

I had good luck with 10 foot for each via Amazon.

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Overall, setup was 9/10, but I'm giving it 5/10 because of the issues I had.
  
  Similar here. I can see how it's supposed to be very smooth and quick, and I think re-establishing setup (if I were portable) would be very quick, but I had a number of issues that prolonged things.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > This does require you to have a lit room
  
  This was disconcerting for me as well as preventing me from using VR sometimes since my VR area borders the den/living room and the breakfast nook and my wife often vetoed the turning up of all the lights (in the evenings).
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Controller tracking 8/10
  
  I'd only give them 6/10. It's highly dependent on tolerance, body type, play style, and which game / experience you're using. My thoughts: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/7qlhde/samsung_odyssey_owners_are_you_happy/dsq5nh5/
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > You will notice some black smear
  
  I started noticing more of it as I dug back through my backlog of games and apps. The Quake II SteamVR environment, Allummette (the night scenes), and the large theater room in BigScreen are three places that had pretty awful black smear that I remember. In other places it was not noticeable though.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Colors are also very vibrant
  
  I agree, I thought the color pop was excellent and fun in the Odyssey, and simply made me want to try a lot of different things to see what they looked like.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > I think it's a tad bigger at least for me
  
  Interesting, my buddy and I both thought his Vive with DAS and 6mm pad had the slight edge in terms of FOV, as well as amount of pupil swim, and there was something subtley not quite as impressive about either the binocular overlap or just the "closeness" of images in the Odyssey, but it was still very good and the great contrast and higher resolution made up for it.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > The forehead pad and back pad are nice and comfortable with most of the weight resting on the forehead and off of the nose/cheek area.
  
  Eventually that forehead pad really started to dig into my forehead. I had a couple sessions that gave me real pain. Here was my solution: https://imgur.com/a/a9lqJ
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > The damn nose flaps.
  
  I totally agree! These would block about 70% of my nasal airflow! But there is an easy fix -- fold them back in behind the lenses. Works great, stays in place, and is easily reversible.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > They are comfortable and easy to position.
  
  I found them a bit hard to get a good seal with. The DAS seems more articulatable which helps get a better on-ear seal which gives it the potential for a bit more perceived bass and therefore a bit more balanced frequency response. But neither holds up against my Audio-Technica ATH-M50s. I'm hopeful the Vive Pro audio addresses that a little more.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > If you are looking for a portable VR experience with a laptop or like to travel and show others VR without having to set up lighthouses or cameras
  
  Yep, that is definitely the big benefit of the Odyssey. It can't be beat for that type of use case. It was kind of lost on me (no laptop, single permanent VR space at home), and I eventually decided due to the substandard controllers and controller tracking that it was worth more turned back into $486 so I returned it after 8 weeks due to Microsoft's very generous holiday return policy. I knew I'd miss it (certain aspects of it) and I do. If I were more into sims and had a driving setup it would have been a tougher call by far.
  
  I do hope they pull together a version with more cameras that can handle the controllers getting close to the cameras and operate in lower light. Best would be some way to give the controllers actual inside-out tracking of their own using their own cameras but that might require a prohibitively large amount of information sent over Bluetooth (BT 5.0?) to the CPU for the Machine Vision algorithm.

> do need a wireless network adapter.

Choosing a wireless adapter with Linux that functions well entirely relies on driver support for the wireless chipset more than the brand or model on the box.

Atheros chipset based wireless adapters are more often than not the best option available. Locating one can be challenging but they are available. the most modern atheros wireless driver for Linux is the ath10k Linux driver. Researching this module should reveal many options.

The wireless adapters available may not all be new but there are options for wireless cards that use that driver specifically

>Do I need amd hardware?

No

>Would intel be the way to go?

That has been mine and many others experience.

As mentioned previously Ryzen cpu's having severe hardware faults that can only be fixed by replacing the cpu.

This more recent issue with Ryzen based motherboards not yet being fully supported also solidifies Intel as the best available choice between brands.

Someone I helped this past weekend couldn't get thermal management drivers for his Ryzen motherboard to function properly. While some of the challenges are entirely as a result of experience anyone with similar amounts of experience could expeirence similar results from new amd based pc hardware.


>Forgive me for my lack of understanding, but why two harddrives? What does the sata SSD drive do?

SSD hard disks use NAND flash memory instead of spinning mechanical platters to store data and ssd's as a result are quite a bit faster with data throughout and responsiveness. Latency response times are significantly lower for SSD's to respond to data read and write requests however the total available storage space is also significantly lower as a result.

With the reduced storage space having a second mechanical disk with good performance and storage space is still beneficial.

Typically if your careful about where you install software having a 512 GB ssd you should never fill it to capacity running an OS install.

>Does the motherboard support an extra harddrive?

Yes absolutely. That motherboard has support for several hard disks and dual M.2 SSD drive expansion slots. M.2 SSD disks are the newest SSD form factor and the data transfer speeds they can offer are astounding however the cost per gigabyte is also significantly more.

>I'd like to hook up some sort of webcam and microphone. Do you have any thoughts on the best way of acquiring such? I've only ever used inbuilt systems in laptops.

I have an older model Microsoft Lifecam Cinema webcam that does have a microphone and also has working native open source Linux drivers. Newer webcams may be nicer and easier to locate such as a Logitech C930 but i'm unaware if native Linux driver support is available.

>It'd be really cool to have two monitors for my computer. Woud that motherboard support such?

That Asus motherboard can run up to three monitors using different display connectors with just the onboard video provided by the Intel CPU.

The EVGA videocard supports running four displays with proper connectors. I have three monitors on my pc with an nvidia evga 1070 graphics card using displayport to HDMI adapters easily located from amazon

The monitors I use are Acer H236HL models that offer very nice slim bezels and IPS LCD panels and support HDMI connections. These monitors are an older model acer however for the cost they are a fantastic economical option of you only require 1080p resolution. Here's a couple Linus Tech Tips reviews on these monitors.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXX0cCWWDsU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODGn3I9BIAo

When I got this cable, it came wrapped in bacon, which I thought was pretty weird, but shrugged it off, slid off my recliner into my Rascal, scooted from the living room to the kitchenette, and started cooking my bacon-wrapping.

As the smell of delicious pork back filled my double-wide, I turned around to look again at the box the cable came in.

Could this be? Yes! It was a "3 wolves barking at the moon shirt" and even better, it fit me perfectly (I wear an XXXXL).

So I yumplugged (get it, yum because of the bacon?) the crappy coax and component cables from my TV, and slapped in the HDMI golden cable between the visio and the blu-ray.

I was completely unprepared for what would turn out to be the best day ever.

I dusted off my....oh who am I kidding...I was already watching my "Mama's Family: season 1" Blu Ray (disc one). The magic began...

Once Vicki Lawrence appeared on screen, she broke character AND the fourth wall. She, and the rest of the cast jumped OUT of my TV, and performed the episode on my living room floor!!!!

Screw 1080P! This is way better. I thought to myself that having a 12" real-life "mama's family" cast was awesome. I wondered what would happen if I had a bigger TV...

Or better yet, used this cable to plug it into that giant TV screen they have at Cowboys Stadium!

Anyway, I was in for a further treat when I was watching a Betty White episode. Oh MAN!!! Could life get better?

I spoke too soon...

After enjoying some drinks with the mini-cast of "Mama's family" (my own mama left me all her Hooch in the will), we threw on the TV. I turned it on to family guy, and the same thing happened.

I was able to punch that Jesus-hating Peter Griffin and that smart-assed dog in their sacrilegious faces. Mini-Betty White even did a pile driver to Stewie.

MacGyver came on, and we all were in 7th heaven (and when 7th Heaven came on, it was EVEN Better).

I could go on and on about my day, but i'm gonna stop here. BUY THIS CABLE.

It could easily be the best $2594.75 you ever spend...

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/product-reviews/B003CT2A6I/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

Man I totally agree. Oculus needs to get their crap together.

So real quick. I have experimented a lot.... Here is what is working for me:

So I bought the inatek KTU3FR-502I pci-express card to go along with Asus Maxiumus VI Formula motherboard. Use the default windows drivers that install when the card is put into the system. DO NOT USE THE latest drivers until you test it first with the defaults. I had nothing but issues with the latest until going back to the windows drivers and now it's much better. Oculus will give a warning about not having the latest drivers just ignore it.

Then I switched to 2 of these cards just as an experiment.

I also have tried 2 of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AVSN2YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with success. For this card you need a PCI-Express x4 slot to install it. I have two of these working just great with the default drivers. I have just installed them today and need to test more to make sure no issues crop up but so far everything is just working with no disconnects. The idea behind this USB 3.1 card versus the USB 3.0 card is that USB 3.1 is 10 Gbps versus USB 3.0's 5 Gbps. The USB 3.0 5Gbps is also being shared among multiple ports on your motherboard so taking away from the total power and bandwidth output. So now with the ORICO usb 3.1 cards I have 2 sensors plugged into one card and 1 sensor and the HMD plugged into the other card. Again currently I am using the default windows drivers and everything seems great. If I start getting disconnects I will try their latest drivers.

The idea behind these add-on USB cards is to make sure you are getting adequate power through the USB ports and eliminating cheaply implemented motherboard ports that often have severe bandwidth limitation since motherboard USB ports all tend to share the same bandwidth.

2 Sensors are attached to the ORICO add-on card with CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cables

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

as far as I can tell these are the same thing as: Monoprice 109279 that are recommended on the wiki. One of these two is in the FRONT RIGHT of my room and the other is in the LEFT REAR.
The third sensor is not using an extension and is attached the ORICO card USB 3.1 port and is in the FRONT LEFT corner of my room.

The HMD is also attached to one of the ORICO USB 3.1 ports with a AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 9.8 Feet (3.0 Meters)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and to extend the HMD HDMI cable I am using Ultra Clarity Cables HDMI Extension Cable 10 FT Ultra Clarity 4K HDMI Extender 2.0 with Ethernet ( 10 FEET ) M / F Port Saver Cables Braided Cord - Support 3D & Audio Return Channel - Latest Version.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So sorry for the long post but I wanted to share my experience and what works for me. Hopefully it will work for you.

To be honest, not too sure what the UFO test is. I just went back and read your post. The model number is S2719DGF. The 155 is overclocked through OSD, works well with no issues, but it comes out of box 144. If you are talking about motion blur it has a super high rating on RTINGS, a 9.9. Its a beautiful monitor! I am rather busy with work and school, so I have played maybe about 20 hours or so of games since I bought it, but have been lazy and have not calibrated it or anything too time consuming. $319 is a steal, I just had them price adjust mine, since I bought it two weeks ago for $380 from BB. It retails anywhere from $300s to mid $400s. $319 is the lowest I've seen it.

I honestly love it! I have a RTX2060, and I normally do not get near the 155hz, normally like 100 to 120fps, but crystal clear image, decent colors (amazing post-calibration according to the internet), and great design. I will mention that BB and other retailers are claiming that it has a 8,000,000:1 contrast ratio, but that is dynamic, so not a true number. Freesync works great with it, now that Nvidia released drivers. Other than that, well worth buy if you are in the market for a monitor.

Link for Best Buy:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/dell-s2719dgf-27-led-qhd-freesync-monitor-black/6293714.p?skuId=6293714

​

Link for RTINGS (Read this before you buy or if on the fence):

https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/dell/s2719dgf

​

Link for Display Port Cable since it does not come with one (I got this one and it works wonderfully):

https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=displayport+cable&qid=1555286414&s=electronics&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

Cheap tripods are great for traveling, and I've given over a hundred demos with them, but they kinda get in the way, and the larger you make the footprint (to improve stability) -the more they encroach in your play space.

I use these tripods with these swivel adapter things for my on-the-road show. As long as they don't get bumped, you're good to go.

For home, I use This tension rod and this rod mount - you may need a longer rod- I run it from the top of my dresser to the ceiling and the top of my computer desk to the ceiling. The 87 inch one isn't long enough to go from floor to ceiling for me.

As far as other essentials, two of these help with plugging the lighthouses in. An HDMI Extender, Power extender, and a USB 3.0 Extender (those three work perfectly for me) will make your life 100x more easy, especially if your computer isn't directly next to your play space. The extra 10 feet makes a world of difference for reducing tangles, reducing the number of times you have to stop and untwist your cord, and making you not worry about yanking on your computer when you get to the far corner.

Lastly, this wireless keyboard thing will save you from running back and forth from your desktop.

---

As far as sweatyness, I got over the ickyness pretty quickly. My friends have mastered basic hygiene, and face sweat doesn't smell all gross or anything. After each demo, I run the foam under the sink to rinse it off, then dab it with a paper towel and set it on a box fan to dry. It's good to go as soon as the next person is done and I repeat the process. I ended up buying a set of new face foams from the HTC website after I lost my narrow face foam though :(

So you have four corners on the recessed ceiling (higher up), and four corners on the lower ceiling. I would almost prefer to put the cameras in the corners of the lower ceiling, because it would give a more straight-on view of the player/controllers. Each camera has a narrower viewing cone at extreme close proximity. The further from the main playspace they are, the more that cone has a chance to "spread out" and cover the actual playspace. In this case, you would draw your playspace with at least (2 ft) or (0.6 m) distance from each of the four walls, so people don't bash their knuckles at the borders.

However, you might not want your cameras to be further than (12 ft) or (3.6 m) apart from each other (for best tracking quality). I don't have a big enough room to run into this limit, so you may be fine with further spaced out cameras. If the lower ceiling corners are further apart than (12 ft) or (3.6 m), then you may want to put them in the recessed ceiling anyways. You can always ignore the Oculus Rift setup's warnings about camera spacing, by the way. In fact, with larger playspaces, the Oculus setup wizard will always complain. Don't worry about it.

Also, you might want to consider using this USB card. It can handle the throughput of all four cameras in USB 3.0 mode, if desired. You can downgrade any camera to USB 2.0 by simply running a USB 2.0 cable to that camera instead of 3.0. A passive USB 2.0 cable is fine for short runs, but consider an active USB 2.0 cable (like the one that comes in the box of an extra Rift camera) for longer runs. You should put your Rift headset in one of the motherboard's USB 3.0 ports (USB 2.0 might actually be fine), and then put all four cameras (you might only need three cameras) in the USB extension card.

You can search this subreddit for discussions on whether you want/need to have the cameras/headset on 3.0 or 2.0. I prefer to run everything at USB 3.0, but it may not be necessary.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are less than 10 feet (say, those corners nearest to your computer tower), use these passive USB 3.0 cables. You're also going to want a passive USB 3.0 extension for your Rift headset.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are more than 10 feet away, you should use an active USB 3.0 cable. This is necessary for cameras that are further away from your tower. Note that the cable I linked has an optional barrel port for a 12V power supply. You only need to power these cables if you're daisy-chaining two or more of them in a row (for runs longer than (33 ft) or (10 m)).

These CAT6 round cable clips should work well for cable routing, especially for the slightly thicker active USB 3.0 cables. These general-purpose adhesive cable clips work fine for runs of the thinner, passive USB cables, but you may have issues with the adhesive depending on your wall.

You'll want this HDMI extension cable for your Rift headset, to make use of the extra space. I've had a good experience with bunching the HDMI and USB Rift headset extensions together by using these lightweight Velcro ties. I have about a (10 ft) or (3 m) square playspace, so you may encounter different problems than me if your playspace is larger. I only have three cameras, and it works fine. Good luck in your setup, I'm sure whatever you do will work great!

I'd strongly recommend against that AV2HDMI unit simply because you really want to step past composite video in your video signal game whenever possible. Composite video is prone to a few issues (rainbow artefacts due to poor comb filters, smearing) that hampers video quality simply from the way the signal works (color and grayscale information being sent through the same cable and needs to be sorted out by the receiving device).

For systems that can do component, I've seen this being recommended:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6

It reportedly doesn't scale the video signal or alter it in any meaningful way, only converts it to digital. I have not however used it myself.

You can get component cables for the PS2, Xbox and also technically for the Gamecube, except that cable is exceedingly rare and expensive. Instead I'd recommend looking at an early generation Wii with Gamecube support. For the Wii there is plenty of choice for component cables, as well as different hdmi adapters.

The SNES can do RGB without modding, however the model and revision of the unit will affect quality somewhat. Check this video if interested:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1k2HVB9S8CA&index=4&list=PLTNBVisVMbSRlu45wgWo332Ke64e1o05m

For the NES, in it's stock form composite is the best you're gonna get (unless you get a fancy Japan import that does s-video). If you're interested in modding, there are however both RGB and HDMI mods out now:
http://retrorgb.com/nesrgb.html

If you want to get one box that "does it all", the XRGB Mini/Framemeister is probably your best bet, although it is some money and not perfect.
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/framemeister.html

In closing, I'd recommend checking out this site:
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/
as well as checking out the videos on this channel to learn more:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTNBVisVMbSRW6GIFybpOJbjU65T8eFVM
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTNBVisVMbSRlu45wgWo332Ke64e1o05m

I used to dabble a bit with this, playing my retro systems on an HD TV, in the end I went back to a CRT TV because of easy of use.

Edit:
Depending on what TV you have, one possible solution would simply be to connect your systems to the TV and then route the audio from the TV to the receiver. My old Sony LCD TV turned out to have a great comb filter (although a bit soft picture).

People in this sub don't think 3.5mm cables make much difference (we consider a lot of 'features' in a cable to be snake oil), but obviously aesthetics and basic functionality are awesome. Put simply, a lot of people are anti-AudioQuest.

Now, the cables you made look sick, and as long as they're not crazy expensive, people would love to buy one. I know some people would like cables with integrated mics as well.

I don't have much experience with parts, but Philmore and Neutrik make some nice components. I'm sure wherever you source your parts currently do a fine job with audio (as long as they have them!).

EDIT: I don't know if I should bother giving you advice since you do an amazing job as is, but having cables that would pair well with existing headphones with removable cables would help. V-Moda, Sennheiser Momentum, ATH-M50x's would be killer products to target. Also, if you have any experience with making headphone pads, that would be a good market too.

Sorry I missed you earlier, here's what I used to get the tower discretely away in the corner and set up the triple monitor setup:

• 10' 3.5mm to RCA cable (your extension cord may need to vary depending on what you use for speakers)
  
  
• 4x usb M/F extension cord 10' (These are for plugging in my keyboard, mouse, phone connection, and a spare for usb sticks without having to plug into the tower)
  
  
• 3x hdmi cable 10' (for plugging in the monitors, be sure to check your connection options as your graphics card / cards may need a different connection)
  
  
• Vivo Triple Monitor Mount ( This is the trickiest part. For me to mount 3 heavy 27" BenQ monitors, this was a relatively inexpensive option. The stand is well built, and looks and moves well, but the weight of the monitors is difficult to mount without any sagging. Also, 27" is the absolute max size this mount will work for, and even then my viewing angles are a bit lacking. I would recommend Locktek's EXCELLENT mounts for neutralizing this issue, but they are vastly more expensive. Weight wont be an issue though. For me, the issue was not a big deal so I didn't splurge on a pricier mount.
  
  
• Cable management sleeve (so that you can tuck away all those cords neatly)
  
  After that, you can have all peripherals at your fingertips and tuck the tower away into a corner. If your space is carpeted (and even if its not), be sure to keep the tower slightly elevated off the ground to allow for good air circulation.
  
  Definitely not dogma but that's what I've been using, and it works well thus far. Be sure not to skimp on the length of your cords, when your hiding it it will need to snake around a bit under the desk.
  
  Hope that helps!
  
  

I'm using these....

HMDI

USB

Then for the sake of asthetics, I wrapped them both in this to keep the wires together when routing.

10 foot for each, which has worked for me, but 15 might give a bit more flexibility depending on the location of your PC. But part of the benefit of the hanging cables is that as long as your cable can reach diagonally to the opposite corner of your space, (front to back, left to right, and top to bottom. Diagonally in 3 dimensions), then it should be able to reach anywhere in your space. The stock Rift cable can reach diagonally across my space, and my extension cables are just getting my cable to its "start" position in the corner.

Keep in mind these cables don't have a ton of strength, so I recommend getting a hefty command strip hook to statically fix your wire near the ceiling to take a lot of the weight, then the hook cables can split the weight from there as it droops towards your head naturally.

This turned into a bit of a novel but I hope my "lessons learned" are helpful haha

No probs :)

a couple more links:

http://www.migee.com/2012/12/20/active-vs-passive-displayport-adapter-whats-the-difference-why-does-eyefinity-care/

http://www.cablechick.com.au/blog/active-vs-passive-cables-switches-splitters/

The cable you have there is 'passive' in that it is leaving the signal as it is and just passing it along. The problem with that is the graphics card can then see it is connected to a HDMI/DVI display and sends a compatible signal automatically. That would be great if it was the only display, but it takes up one of your HDMI/DVI 'slots'. So really it's not working as a DisplayPort at all, it's more like HDMI to DP to HDMI.

If you use an 'active' adapter, the card sees it as a DisplayPort device, and sends a DP compatible signal - the adapter then does the conversion to HDMI/DVI signal format for your screen. This leaves your 2 HDMI/DVI 'slots' free to work through the actual HDMI/DVI ports.

The active adapters are more expensive than passive because they have a chipset in them that's converting the signal - and your mileage may vary on things like HDCP, max resolution etc.

Here's the Amazon US listing for the adapter. Note that you can select Active or Passive under the 'Style' options.

EDIT:
Just realized you're actually in Australia so Amazon's not an option. Shop around and read reviews, the active adapter should only be about twice the price of a passive one.

So yea... I bought the 16 Pro. Mostly unaware of its issues.
Took a while, but once I got it to work I couldn't be happier.

Its a weird thing to say since so much people has been shaming this model. And to be honest it has a lot of issues, specially with product shipment.


For all the issues you stated, I had them and I managed to work it out. Just be sure to buy this baby: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XVYZ82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(or any mini DP to DP that some people have been testind and managed to make it work. I used this one and it was fine for me.)

If you use the wacom link + miniDP to DP cable = should work perfectly in 4k.
I am using a GTX 980 and it works in 4k without a problem.
If your 970 supports 4k then it wouldn't be a problem. I would not recommend it for you if you have an AMD card since I had errors trying the 4k in my RX480 card.

The hardware is great, the problem is really just the software. Wacom's drivers still suck and you will need something like Lazy Nezumi's stabilizer to help with the infamous wavy lines.


And, to be honest. Even tho it is full of problems, I would still buy it again. Cuz it is a gorgeous display, and even tho I come from Intuos Pro, I felt a lot of difference from Pro Pen 1 to the newest Pro pen 2 model.

Still... it is your call :)

Just realized your username, but in general, there are lot of people that think the LGP does something "magical". There are a lot of different ways to improve lag. It just comes down to breaking down all the processes.

• Analog to Digital Conversion
  
  >You can use an external ADC like an LGP, Shuttle, or others (1, 2). Many times, the internal ADC built into the LCD screen is really poor. This the big thing about using the Wii U to play Smash, because there is no analog involved when you use HDMI.
  
  
• Image Scaling
  
  >There are external scalers like XRGB's Framemeister, but it probably best to just let your display upscale your image. There are also devices (1, 2) that upscale and do the ADC together.
  
  
• Post Processing
  
  >This is strictly limited to setting your LCD screen to Game Mode and disabling all special video effects (120hz motion, image filtering, dynamic contrast, etc).
  
  A lot of people are using the LGP just because their gaming monitor doesn't have component input. What's interesting is, technically, any gaming LCD monitor with VGA already has an internal ADC chip. The simplest (and by that logic, the cheapest) solution for these types of monitors is to get a Component (YPbPr) to VGA (RGBHV) adapter and let the gaming monitor do the ADC.
  
  LGP is just the popular solution, but it's definitely overkill if we want to move to LCD gaming.

These are the exact cables I used to extend both my rifts. Both are lossless quality; no noise, snow, nothing.

USB Extension

HDM Extension

Also in case you are interested, these are the cables I used to extend my sensor cables. Entire system works flawlessly. Some people have had to plug one or two of the sensors into a USB2.0 slot instead of 3.0 to get perfect tracked. I just split the 3.0's up between several different card. A good rule of thumb is two inputs per card. So i used the MOBO slots, the top panel slots, and my PCI-E USB slots to ensure each component was receiving sufficient power.

Hope this helps. Best of luck and enjoy (:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-6300 3.8GHz Dual-Core Processor | $141.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $49.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $29.99 @ Newegg
Storage | OCZ TRION 150 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $57.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Superclocked Video Card | $99.99 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $29.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | $14.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | $87.95 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $562.88
| Mail-in rebates | -$50.00
| Total | $512.88
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-05 23:04 EST-0500 |

Skylake i3 is better.

DDR4 RAM is faster.

This has a 240GB solid state, which should hold your OS and several of your favorite games. I use Win10 and a 120GB SSD, I can have about 4 games on my PC at once. I assume you'll still be using your mac for media, so this is a pretty good choice.

I like 750Ti's better than r7 265s, but the choice is yours at the same price. Good luck finding benchmarks to compare the two.

Stuff you're gonna need:

Mini displayport to displayport cable: $7.99 (hey, that's not so bad)

"Switcher" able to handle a digital displayport signal: $75.99

Honestly with your budget, why are you trying to spend $76 when you could unplug and replug 3 cables for free?

Sure thing.

The left monitor is a Dell UltraSharp U2713HM 27 inch.

The right monitor is a BenQ GW2765HT LED IPS 27

These two are conected to the iMac via Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort cables.

The iMac (and also Macbook Pros, I think) supports up to two external displays over thunderbolt. I believe it could handle up to two 4k displays on top of its 5k screen.

To get the extra two monitors, I'm using two of these Startech USB to DVI adapters (they use the DisplayLink Mac drivers). If you want to go down this route, make sure you do a little googling around first. They work really well - but make sure you:

• Get a USB3 adapter, not a USB2 one.
  
• Have a supported version of the OS - DisplayLink drivers tend to lag behind the latest OSX updates. AFIAK you can run the latest OS at the moment, but every time Apple updates OSX you need to wait for DisplayLink to release an update before upgrading if you want your monitors to work.
  
• Check your CPU can handle it - these bypass the graphics card, which is why it works, and the load is put onto your CPU instead. For reference, my not very powerful Macbook air can run one external USB display fine, but two causes it to start to lag a little.
  
  
  I've not had any big issues running the displays on Windows - it tends to handle it all pretty well. Windows always has been great at that. I for a little while had Windows 8 crash on me whenever all two of the external thunderbolt monitors were connected to it because of the AMD drivers being buggy, but that seems to be fine now.
  
  Hope that helps!

The link I gave was a cursory example, but I did specify that it should be an active DP to DVI adapter. But fair point, the one in the link will not be the right one. I would expect that the OP would do his/her own research based on the information provided and not just buy the first one linked (which was linked purely as an example).

Perhaps something like this would have been a more appropriate example - https://smile.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter-Black/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=active+dp+to+dvi+adapter+144hz&qid=1567203271&refinements=p_76%3A419158031&rnid=419157031&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-1

But the one above is also but an example of the type of adapter that is needed, but not neccessarily the exact adapter needed.

Hope that helps and indeed clarifies.

Peace <3

> The device needs to work on WiFi without Internet access.

I don't think you're going to get that—all devices capable of playing Plex (Chromecast, Roku, AppleTV, Amazon Firestick) all require internet access, as the device is directly communicating with your server. Read this from the Plex support docs:

>It's important to note that the Chromecast streams content directly from the Plex Media Server (or Cloud Sync).

>When you use a mobile device or browser to initiate a cast, the content does not go "through" that device and then to the Chromecast; you're free to disconnect or turn off the casting app at any time if you wish to do so and that won't affect the stream.

Best solution for you: get a cable that allows you to hook up your laptop to a TV.

If you have a Mac, one of these will do it, if you have a newer PC, it may have a HDMI port so all you'd need is a HDMI cable. If the laptop is older and only has a VGA output, you'd have to get something like this that is capable of converting the signal.

No problem.

Yeah, that would work. I've mocked up a (very) rudimentary design of the solution for you:

https://imgur.com/gallery/SsLMTsi

​

Imgur cut off my text but the color code is:

Black = Product

Blue = Connection

Pink = Item To Buy (see below)

​

Products (including suggestions):

1. USB Computer Toggle Hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXXQKGM?ie=UTF8
   
2. Mac Type C Dock With Charging and Display Out: https://www.amazon.com/QGeeM-Delivery-Compatible-Thunderbolt-Chromebook/dp/B07QXMNF1X/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=type+c+dock+mac+charging&qid=1574116707&refinements=p_36%3A1253503011&rnid=386442011&s=electronics&sr=1-6
   
3. HDMI to DVI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8UQJY/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=techlens0e-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B014I8UL8U&linkId=707a16198e0572f08d2e77944f3adfb7&th=1
   
4. Mini DP to DP: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PWQPFS/ref=twister_B01B1B67RG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
   
   ​
   
   With this, your mac will be one cable connected to it for both charging and connecting to the monitor as the charger connects to the type c dock :-)
   
   Thank you for the sub!, didn't expect that. I hope to make some enjoyable content for you and spark some ideas! - speaking of my first video with the webcam kill switch includes how to mount the switch to the underside of the desk (which would be perfect for the USB hub - item 1. Will be super discrete and clean)
   
   PS - if you get this setup - post a pic here for me? :-)
   
   ​
   
   ​
   
   As for keyboard, i have always liked mechanical. Aukey do one that's pretty unoffensive looking:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Mechanical-Keyboard-Anti-Ghosting-Resistant/dp/B06XKV8R9Z/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=mechanical+keyboard&qid=1574117032&refinements=p_36%3A-4000&rnid=386442011&s=electronics&sr=1-11
   
   ​
   
   The Logitech G203 is on sale at the moment: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Prodigy-Wired-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B01M26YUKO/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=gaming+mouse&qid=1574117290&refinements=p_36%3A-4000&rnid=386442011&s=electronics&sr=1-5
   
   ​
   
   But so subjective - I have a corsair K70 Mk2 Low Profile with a Mionix Naos (will take a lot to make me change!)

It would not make a difference as long as the converter does not support your monitors resolution. Only plausible solution could be an active adapter (converter) as it supports higher resolutions but the real active adapters cost 80-100$. You can buy a new monitor for that amount. And you can tell if it is real active adapter or not, is if it has an USB cable attached to it. The ones that are labled as active adapters but don't have a USB cable are actually passive adapters and you already own 2 of them, clearly they don't work.
Here is what an real active adapter looks alike: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467454662&sr=8-3&keywords=DisplayPort+to+DVI-D+Dual-Link+Adapter
NOTE: I can't promise that even this would work.

Sorry, I guess I missed the HDR support part. You are correct that the HDMI port nees to be 2.2. to allow HDR images to display. Without it, you'd get a blank screen. the 790 does support 4K with HDCP2.2 and HDR. Again, depending on how into AQ you are, soundbars do a decent job but I just don't think it's worth spending $200-300 dollars more. The Sony display is very good. I have the X800D and it looks amazing in my bedroom with both normal and HDR programs (it was last year's model but I saved $300 by buying it. The differences in the new displays weren't that important to me). As long as you connect your soundbar into an HDMI 2.2 port you should be good to go. Also, make sure your HDMI cables are certified high speed (full 18Gbps) and that the enhanced HDR settings are set to auto on you display. You probably know all this already but I read so many comments from people having problems getting HDR to work because they miss these simple points. These are what I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Certified-Premium-Speed-Cable/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499868918&sr=8-2&keywords=amazon+HDMI+certified+high+speed+cables
Hope this helps.

College Rulez! (Heh....heh...)

So my major is Visual Communications! And here is how ITT Tech fucked us VC students over:

So upon the beginning of the year as I met with my administrator telling him about my huge passion for gaming and I really wanted to be a game designer! Here is what he said in a nutshell:

"Well our gaming courses are fantastic and you will learn everything you need to know to get a job! But first, we require you to obtain your Associates in Graphic Design. Many job offers require you to have experience with Adobe Programs and other graphic design programs. So just finished getting your Associates, then we will find you a job and they can pay for your Bachelors courses! YAY! :D"

But that wasnt the case. About 3 months before finishing my Associates quarters as my anticipation for gaming courses built up, they sent my classmates and I a bit of bad news. 'ITT will be cancelling your Bachelors program but only for VC student. Sorry.'

So here I was pissed off that I had a degree I dont want, but heres the funny part. I have grown to love graphic design and I am pursuing my Bachelors in graphic design and couldnt enjoy it more! :D

If I win, then I could really use [this] (http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=EYB47AJ077Y1&coliid=I2E1NQR8CA3G1T) for dual screen. It would help alot when designing! :D Thanks for the contest!

This is what you need

-AudioQuest - Diamond 3.3' High-Speed HDMI Cable. Hands down the absolute best HDMI cable I have ever owned. It took my CRT TV and made it in so vivid that real life looks flat and washed out in comparison.

It supercharged the X. It's now called Johnny 5

The K is so high it cannot even be measured. If I pause my VHS and zoom in I get so close that it's like looking at an X-ray.
At Best Buy in the States it's only $1,095.99 Bargain

I'm English myself and I couldn't find a 1 metre cable so I thought 5 is better than 1 and paid a very reasonable £2,299.00. It comes with free delivery too. So Reasonable

As I see it, that rate (more like our refresh rate) is probably more closely related to the 10ms timescale mentioned in the first Wikipedia article I linked, reference 4 (paywall). The author of the Wikipedia article implies that subjects couldn't discern two colors as individual when they came after one-another on the order of 10ms. I unfortunately can't independently check this due to the paywall :(.

Anyhow, it seems like this ca. 10ms refresh rate is close to the speed at which we run into problems of image persistence (and thus diminishing returns in increasing framerates), though it seems like current science doesn't know where that limit is for certain. Either way, we can't even tell something happened if it was faster than 1/240th of a second (~5ms). Much faster is almost certainly overkill (ie. 2000fps I'd expect to be undifferentiable from 1000fps). I could certainly be wrong, though...

I wanted to make a quick comment about your earlier post:
>First, don't we have 144hz displays already? And people can certainly tell the difference between 80fps vs 144fps, right? Or else nobody would buy those monitors? Also, it was announced that James Cameron is going to have Avatar 2 in theaters at 120fps. I doubt people in Hollywood would put those extra frames in there for nothing

I think we've got to be careful of using the argument that, if people buy things, there must be a tangible benefit (besides enjoying it more because it's more expensive/fancier). There's plenty of silly stuff that people will spend money on. Often it's just for padding the spec sheet to add perceived value. For example, I'm of the opinion that there's no reason to have a phone with a display that's 8k since there's not really a perceptible difference - it's not physically possible to discern the pixels at a reasonable distance (~6 inches or so). That's not to say that it's impossible to make improvements to current phone displays (brighter, better viewing angles, etc.), just that 4k is a reasonable limit in necessary resolution, and 4k seems like overkill, or at least the threshold of it. An 8k display and a 4k display of identical quality in every other respect should thus be undifferentiable from one-another (except in their power consumption and memory/CPU usage...).

I can't find any docks with Dual Link, but with DP output you can use an active DP to DVI-DL adapter. As I said, they are quite expensive. I will give you a link to one that should work just so you can see what to look for. I have no idea if it's good and it's one of the more expensive ones. Link. They don't have to have a USB cable for additional power, but many do.

In the description look for "2560x1600 at 60Hz". Some will say "Will only work with computers able to output DVI signals at 340Hz". That's not a thing, it's just that if it was possible Single Link would work at Dual Link speeds. This makes their product technically not a scam. At the bottom of the reviews, click "See all xxx reviews". You will then get a search bar. Search for either the resolution you need or 144Hz as that's a bit more popular with DVI-DL. If it supports 144Hz it will support 2560x1600 and vice versa.

If you are uncertain feel free to post one you are considering. I can only tell you if it should work as these are very often fragile and break easily.

Depending on the monitor then in all likelihood; sure, If it's one of those Thunderbolt models you might be able to do it as long as your gaming rig either has a thunderbolt port on the i/o (unlikely) or you can pick up a Thunderbolt expansion card (basically like one of those USB Brackets) for not ridiculous sums on amazon.

IIRC the majority of Apple's displays are just mini display port so you should be able to use just either an adapter or go one better and get a mini to full cable like these).

I feel you on this one bro, gotta hand it to Apple, those displays are simply beautiful. Also Yes, links are amazon uk, #ukmasterrace.

I bought a Vive Link Box to use as a signal/power booster in the middle, and it works great. This cured all my dropouts and audio glitches, as well as giving my system a Bluetooth radio.

This setup works great:

1. Vive Link Box
   
2. Vive Link Box Power Supply
   
3. 12 ft Power cable extension for Vive Link Box
   
4. 10 ft USB 3.0 extension cable
   
5. 10 ft Amazon Basics HDMI cable
   
6. Wire wrap to keep everything tidy
   
   Make sure you power cycle the Vive Link Box whenever you plug or unplug anything into it to for it to reinitialize and detect the headset.
   
   I really wish there was a more elegant solution, but so far this works the best for me.

Very true, but Amazon also sells AmazonBasics HDMI cables which are super cheap, pretty good quality and HDMI 2.0 spec:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T0YQ/ref=twister_B016I3XG0S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

• 29UC88 isn't bad. If productivity is your thing, higher res = better. I'm a programmer who currently has 15" rMBP > thunderbolt display at work, and 27" imac at home (both 2560x1440). It's massively better than using the rMBP's built in screen. But the 29UC88 would be like chopping off 360 pixels at the bottom... not something I would want to do. I'm currently waiting on this guy who is on the truck for delivery: https://www.amazon.com/Acer-XR342CK-bmijpphz-UltraWide-FreeSync/dp/B01JYT9L4I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503582336&sr=1-1&keywords=acer+xr342ck. It'll be the same height for me, but with an additional ~900px on the side which will be great for a 3rd window. Whether or not that's worth maxing out your budget for I can't answer. But it is one for consideration.
  
• In most cases you're looking for miniDP to DP like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B013PWQPFS/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503582437&sr=1-2&keywords=mini%2Bdp%2Bto%2Bdp&th=1
  
• Cheap and well rated arm: https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Monitor-Adjustable-Articulating-STAND-V001/dp/B00B21TLQU/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C530FVQ33YXEMV839CA6
  
  EDIT: re: your neck and back pain. It's good your making your workspace more ergonomic. But there's only so much you can do there. Make sure you're taking frequent breaks if only for a few minutes.

> So what I'm looking for is the monitor with the most dpi, right?

Yes, but that's not everything. I suggest you get a monitor with a 2560x1440 resolution and 24-27" inch. I think 22" might be a little bit too small.

> Do you have a suggestion? (22' and let's say up to 500$? I just throw a random number so don't count it so much, I don't want something too professional but yes a good one)

Hmm... every display type has some advantages and disadvantages but I would recommend you something like those: Dell UltraSharp U2515H or U2518D. I think 22" could be to small and 27" too big.

But - you would have to use your DisplayPort / thunderbolt port with an adapter like this click on me as HDMI does not support the right resolution with this combination of monitor and macbook air.

>just saw something on the official apple site: https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HMUA2VC/A/lg-ultrafine-4k-display
>it's 4k, does it mean it won't connect to my mac or just will be less than 4k but will work? is it enough dpi?
>anyways this is a bit expensive so ill appreciate if you will come up with ur suggestions too!

This would not work nice. And I am not so sure about connecting it either as I think your Macbook Air does not have the right ports. Don't buy this one.

I'm not an expert on display cables but from the looks of it, it seems display port to Dual Link DVI D requires a bit of active conversion for the higher resolutions.

"The DisplayPort LVDS signal protocol is not compatible with DVI or HDMI. However, Dual-mode DisplayPorts are designed to transmit a single-link DVI or HDMI 1.2/1.4 TMDS protocol across the interface through the use of an external passive adapter that selects the desired signal and converts it from 3.3 volts to 5 volts. Analog VGA and dual-link DVI require powered active adapters to convert the protocol and signal levels and do not rely on Dual-Mode. VGA adapters are powered by the DisplayPort connector, while dual-link DVI adapters may rely on an external power source (see Dual-mode).[6]"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort

Seems like the adapter cost almost half the price of the card...

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

But like Ponky mentioned. There will probably be versions with DVI.

> My concern with surround gaming is the drops in preformance and graphical settings I would have to make!

You might be surprised! I just upgraded, but I was running triple-screen on SLI 560's. I wasn't getting 120FPS, and it wasn't going to play Metro on full settings, but most games handled just fine with only minimal tweaking. Some games I played with full graphical settings and resolution (Dishonored comes to mind).

You can turn down the resolution to a smaller triple-screen one and you won't notice much of a difference. Also since everything is so big, AA isn't as much of an issue and you can turn that way down or off altogether. Just trust me on this one - as long as you have the three monitors and a card that supports it, just give it a try. Even if you have to sacrifice a little bit of shiny, the experience is worth it. You'll never go back.

> I've been getting mixed reviews though online for what is necessary with an Nvidia card, some are mentioning that displayport is necessary, and others say just use 2 dvi cables and 1 hdmi to dvi.

It depends. I'm not entirely sure about all the 6-series (specifically your higher-end one). I just installed a 650 in a friends computer, the third monitor just needed a mini-HDMI to HDMI adapter (which the card didn't come with). With my 780, I have four ports - mini-HDMI, DisplayPort, and two DVI. For that, you need to use the DisplayPort for the third monitor for Surround, otherwise it doesn't matter. Mine came with the mini-HDMI adapter, that may depend on the OEM who makes the card.

So bottom line, if you have two DVI and a mini-HDMI, all you'll need is a mini-HDMI adapter which might even come with the card (and maybe a HDMI to DVI adapter too). If there are four ports, you need an active DisplayPort adapter. The 5-series cards do not support three monitors on one card despite having three outputs.

I'm still waiting for my Rift actually, it arrives in another week, so not sure yet. But if you'd like I can report back when I get everything setup.

10m Active USB.3.0 Extensions (for front sensors)

3m USB 3.0 Extension (for HMD)

3m HDMI Extension (for HMD)

HDMI to DP Adapter (For GPU)

USB 3.0 PCI-E Card (to power the 10m active extensions)

I've read good things about all of these, with a lot of success stories. Hopefully all goes well on my end.

I use two of these at work, AMA.

Amazon has this listed at $124.26, so this is $24.27 or about 20% off.

Personal recommendation: They're only 21.5", but the color on them is good and at $99 I think they're worth the price. Haven't done any gaming on them, only office work. One of the monitors had some kind of fault that made it randomly turn off, but I was never able to locate the problem and it seems to have righted itself over time. The base is nice and flat, great for sticking a stack of sticky notes or whatever. Biggest complaint aside from the size is the glossy finish. I work in a bright office, so I'm not looking at a white screen (like reddit or Word), I can see a pretty good reflection of everything behind me.

UPDATE: Someone just reminded me, this monitor is VGA and DVI only. You'll need an adapter if you want to use HDMI or DisplayPort. I use a VGA to DVI adapter for one monitor and a DVI to HDMI cable for the other.

Just upgraded to 4K from the previous ATV model and I tried to turn on HDR mode but Apple TV does it’s check and says it’s switching to SDR.

This is from Samsung website for the KU6290:

“Our HDR Premium technology displays HDR (High Dynamic Range) content from new generation Ultra HD Blu-ray, HDR streaming content, and HDR content available on Vidity compliant storage devices. Meets CTA HDR-compatible requirements.”

Can anyone help me debug this? Or has anyone ran into similar issues? I tried switching HDMI ports and I have a Monoprice HDMI cable that supports HDR.

TIA

OK.. so I'm not sure how far you want to go. I got these two items >>

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169650&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Matters+2-Pack+High+Speed+HDMI+Extension+Cable+with+Ethernet++++++++++++10+Feet+-+3D+and+4K+Resolution+Ready
and
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169808&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Matters+SuperSpeed+USB+3.0+++++++++++++Type+A+Male+to+Female+Extension+Cable+in+Black+10+Feet

and that gets me an additional 10 feet, which is cool, and I never have any problems. I DID initially, but I rolled back the USB3 Inateck Windows 10 driver, and it's been really stable since then. Not even one hiccup. Good luck to you. Hope this helps.

Ok great info. I appreciate the clarification. I’ve found these cords which look right up my alley. DisplayPort Cords
I’ll check out a cheaper second monitor as well
Save some money that I can spend on the steam sale instead. Again really appreciate it!!

I bought this 2-pack of HDMI extension cables from Amazon so that I could have one for my living room and my office - both have worked flawlessly for me at this point. I paired with the USB extension cables also linked below. Best of luck to you - it's nice to have longer cables.

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yIDxxbZPBDP76

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zHDxxbFWC62FN

I know what you meant, since I work in technical support, and deal with customers who don't know what to call things all the time. "I'm adapting DP to HDMI, but I'm not using an adapter, just a cable" is a common one. Most issues arise from misunderstanding that only dongles are adapters, which is why I have to break it down as 'I understand you're saying that you are not using an adapter, what port is the cable plugged into on the computer.... HDMI? .... and on the monitor? .... DP? .... Is there a box on the cable? ... No? ... I found your problem.'

A tiny dongle that has DP and HDMI plugs, that plugs into DP on the computer, and gives a plug for an HDMI to HDMI cable is an adapter. This is what you meant. Not linking a pic, since we're both in agreement these are adapters. Now, so you understand a tiny bit more...

A 2 meter long cable with a DP and HDMI plug on either end (like this) is ALSO an adapter. Sure, no additional breaks, but it adapts DP to HDMI. Would probably help OP with less additional parts to buy. It's still an adapter, and works effectively the same as the dongle, just a bit longer and with some gender variances on ends.

That VERY SAME cable would not work if plugged into a HDMI port on the computer, and DP on a monitor. It requires an active adapter, which does a little conversion from the older HDMI standard to the newer DP standard. In the instance of HDMI-DP, it can draw power from HDMI but still requires a housing for the chipset (like this). Most active adapters have a second cable that plugs into USB or the wall (like this).

Relevant

When it comes to USB extensions and where to plug in the equipment (USB 2.0 vs 3.0, etc), I found the Help section on the Oculus website to be insufficient. They don't take into consideration if you have a PCI-E USB 3.0 controller (Which I had to purchase) in addition to the on board USB 3.0 ports.

I have 4 sensors, all of which are connected to USB extension cables. I found the Oculus setup wizard to be most useful. If you have green check marks for everything, then you're good! If you don't, try plugging stuff into different ports until you get all green check marks. At one point I had to even unplug some other USB devices, plug in my sensors (so they would turn green), then I could plug in my other USB devices. I now have all 4 sensors setup working flawlessly.

For extension cables, I had no issues. Three of my sensors have 10' extenders and I also have a USB extension cable on the headset as well as an HDMI extender. I spent a decent amount of time getting my "Rift Room" setup and I am so happy that I spent the time to set it up right. Makes for such a solid experience and I have a large play area that I can freely move around in.

For reference here is the HDMI/USB cables I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (HDMI Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 3.0 Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MT1EQM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 2.0 Extender)
(Also, my 2 additional sensors came with 1 10' USB extension cable each...purchased from Newegg)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 3.0 Controller)

"A lot better "ones" and more "zeros" in this cable!

I especially like the "ones", they are more "one" than what you normally would see in other cables. Very cheap cables tend to run out of zeros after you have been using them for too loud audio or video with a lot of blue in them. Not this cable, it has an abundance of zeros in reserve. It will keep feeding those zeros to your TV or Receiver like it's no tomorrow!

Very good cable WITH FREE SHIPPING! "

Pretty much any review on this. Though I guess they may not be in the spirit of this thread as I doubt anyone would take this seriously.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1542817607&sr=1-4&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi

I've been using two of those at home for about a year now. When I updated to my 1080ti on my new build I didn't want to add cost with new monitors right away (my older Samsung monitors are DVI/HDMI only but still work great as 2nd and 3rd monitors) and the 1080 only has one HDMI out which I was using for my Vive.

There are probably even cheaper options available, but they do work well. I've never had output or ripping issues with them and everything was recognized as it should be.

Easy plug and play.

Thanks a lot for your help. The paste thing is concerning me about building, are you saying that my intel i7 will have thermal paste already attached and if not my cpu cooler will?

I am buying an optical drive so that I can buy old pc games and play them. I realise they are now becoming obsolete.

As it is my first build I do not think I will overclock. I have changed the mobo to a z170.

By display port I mean the newer version of the DVI or HDMI that is needed for 1440p above 60fps. I was informed it was the best way to display 1440p. This is it here https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002XVYZ82/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE will this work do you know?

Thanks very much for your help.

Great! So, the Cable Matters USB3 10ft cable you linked seems to work for others.

But, the AmazonBasics HDMI 10ft cable sounds fishy in the reviews. A long with a bunch of other HDMI cables (10ft). One review said the 15ft cable worked great (amazonbasics).

Based on youtube, this one does not work at all.
Ultra Clarity Cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Someone is also saying it all depends on your motherboard?

My computer has a USB 3.0 port with the [battery]+ symbol, so I'm going to take a leap of faith and purchase the cables matter 10ft usb3 cable and the 10ft amazonbasics hdmi cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H91KE/


Should arrive a day before my Odyssey+

Head here: http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?id=295
and get an AMD card that's in the supported cards list. Obviously the newer ones will have more power, but I've read roughly HD 5000 series and up is generally good. Also use this link to grab crt emudriver.

Make sure you have a DVI-I to VGA adapter, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

Next, get a VGA to 5BNC connector. Something like this, although https://www.amazon.com/Coax-HD15-RGBHV-Monitor-Cable/dp/B0033AF5Y0, although shop around if you want one with higher user reviews, that one has about 3 stars for some reason.

You can roughly follow this guide: http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=1052#p1052

Although note that you won't have to disconnect your LCD display/main display while you install CRT emudriver. That's how I did it. I still have my main monitor connected and the crt emudriver monitor is a second monitor.

You could get away with using an HDMI only device if you wanted to do that by converting the analog signal to a digital one. I have the Elgato HD 60, which only has the HDMI input so to capture something like Xbox 360 games, I have to convert the signal.

This is exactly what I bought for the 360 and have had great success with it. For composite you would need this as well.

I honestly don't know of any capture cards outside of the Blackmagic Intensity Shuttle that have legacy inputs and I've had no luck getting the Intensity Shuttle to capture any sub-480p resolutions. I would convert the analog signals to digital and buy a modern capture card.

I posted on your old post but here's a build.

Adaptor-

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000067SOH?pc_redir=1395091981&robot_redir=1

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-8320 3.5GHz 8-Core Processor | $152.98 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $29.99 @ NCIX US
Motherboard | Asus M5A78L-M/USB3 Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $54.99 @ Micro Center
Memory | Kingston Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $64.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $57.98 @ OutletPC
Video Card | XFX Radeon R9 270 2GB Video Card | $195.91 @ Newegg
Case | Rosewill R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $78.11 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $32.98 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $658.93
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-18 16:08 EDT-0400 |



And here's a build with a pretty good monitor. (I own the same one and I like it)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor | $109.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $29.99 @ NCIX US
Motherboard | Asus M5A78L-M/USB3 Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $54.99 @ Micro Center
Memory | Kingston Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $64.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $50.93 @ Amazon
Video Card | XFX Radeon R9 270 2GB Video Card | $195.91 @ Newegg
Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.99 @ Micro Center
Power Supply | Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $32.98 @ Newegg
Monitor | Hannspree HE225DPB 21.5" Monitor | $137.58 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $727.35
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-18 19:47 EDT-0400 |

Hey!

Was just offered a free monitor from one my of teachers who saw me browsing for PC monitors in class. All I know about the monitor he offered is that it has an "HDMI cord" and is "Samsung." It appears to be this model (though I'm not positive).

I'm looking to hook it up to my PC, which currently has two monitors connected to DVI, plus another 144hz monitor on the way which will be connected using a Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable.

So here are my questions. One, will my [Radeon 7870] (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/MhQypg/xfx-video-card-fx787acdfc) support all 4 monitors? Will it lag when I play CS:GO solely on my on-the-way 144hz monitor? If so, will it be easy enough just to shut off one or two monitors when I play? Should I worry about power consumption? For reference, here is the rest of my build.

Appreciate any and all help!

Ok, there are 2 different models of a monitor sort of like that. One is pretty much the exact one I linked, and that has a VGA connector(was used on PCs before DVI came into the market). The newer ones(back is totally clear) used ADC(which combines video, usb, and power into one plug). If you have the VGA one you're in luck,you either just plug it right into the VGA port on your computer, or if you only have DVI, you just need a DVI to VGA adapter. Once you get the monitor connected to your computer, you're all set, just boot up the machine, and it should be ready to go. No software or anything is required.

If it's the kind with the ADC adapter, it's really not worth it, since the adapters for those usually go for over $100. You'll be much better off finding someone selling/giving away a used CRT monitor locally



As far as your other questions go;

2. Don't really think there are many safety precautions you need to take, assuming it hasn't been rained on or anything while in storage. I guess be ready to unplug it when you first test it incase the flyback transformer or something inside is smoking. If you don't have any experience with the inside of CRTs, don't go inside it to clean it out or anything, and you'll be fine.

3. not really sure. Maybe if you put it in a garbage bag outside with one of those anti-bug bomb things or whatever, that will get rid of any insects. Not really sure how safe those are for electronics. Maybe someone else can chime in?

4. Only a little crazy :-P

Good guy ehngage, providing true customer support. I hate how companies try to rip off customers like that. Best buy used to have a 1000 dollar hdmi cable, apparently they stopped carrying it bahahaha. Amazon carries it though! http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Look at it, in all of its glory.

I haven't had any issues, even on games that don't have native WMR support. My only issue was the short cable with the Odyssey, but I picked up these three items to extend the cable and stick them to my desk and it's working perfectly and now has the same range as my vive did.

Something I should add, the og vive with wireless and a das would cost less than a vive pro, but you'd have wireless, which improves immersion drastically. Not to add another thing for you to consider and further complicate your decision making process.

Well, I see you've sent the adapter back...still I'll offer my experience. I own a late-2011 MBP (2.4 GHz i7) running OS X Lion 10.7.4 as well, and I run it through to a monitor with this:

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B003OC6LWM/ref=pd_cp_e_2

I have had no hiccups with that. I also have an Asus monitor. I feel it must be something to do with your adapter. When I connected them up my first time, it detected both automatically. So don't worry, you didn't just throw money away. You can get this to work. Make sure that the monitor is turned on (I'm positive you're smarter than that, but you would not believe some people who don't do this) and also that your computer is plugged into a power source. I will monitor this thread for your update. Good luck!

Sorry to spam you, but are these the same as the one you linked? amazon I prefer to order from amazon since I get free next day, but there’s a few low quality reviews up top and just wanted to double check. I know those could just be defective or just idiots using them but I want to make sure before I order them. I have until like 10pm tonight to order and I’lol still get them tomorrow. Gotta love that convenience

Based on what I have read its hit or miss. If you want to guarantee a high refresh, you need upgrade your monitor, otherwise switch back to HDMI and be happy with it.

Given the cost of true ACTIVE adapters (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-Dual-Link/dp/B00A493CNY/) a new monitor would be a much better investment of your money.

It's been about 8 years since I last had this issue (at the time was a 1440p 60fps screen but same issue fundamentally) so really not sure what about these days, back then the adapter ran at around £150 so I ended up not bothering selling the screen on and buying a new one with native DP.

Wish I could be more help but I would be very surprised if that isn't the issue your facing.

something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-1920x1200/dp/B00A493CNY?th=1

Maybe something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Supporting/dp/B01DYFI1OE

or

even a simple TB3 to DisplayPort cable
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-USB-C-Supporting/dp/B01J6DT070 might work?

Your laptop has an hdmi and Mini DisplayPort connectors as well.

Connecting your monitor with a Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable would be your best bet and I would bet would get you the full 120hz @ 3,440x1440 resolution.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable-Feet/dp/B013PWQPFS

I would run one of those for your monitor and treat your other connections separately. I would recommend using the mDP to DP cable and then run a dock off of your TB3 port for all of your other connections. Maybe one of the docks in this article would suit your needs?
https://www.gearhungry.com/best-thunderbolt-3-dock/

Unless you get a higher end AVR with ADC which will cost more, there are some adapters for cheap on Amazon but the reviews are pretty mixed such as this.

That said, it is relatively cheap and Amazon has a good return policy so may be worth a shot.

Super stylish.

Then you can bring along your camera, film some sweet video, take some nice selfies, then go home and watch it on your sweet TV and hooking the camera up with you diamond HDMI camble

Yes, just make sure to use an active converter. The passive (unpowered) ones can't pass enough bandwidth to the monitor to drive 1920x1080@144hz. I have three of the active connectors and they work fine. Expensive, though! (~ $100).

Here's an Amazon link for the ones I use:
https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

Carabiners are useful. Clip one to a back belt loop on a pair of jeans/etc, then loop the cable through it. It goes a long way towards keeping the cable out of the way of your feet. It also cuts down on the amount of "tugging" you feel on your head as you pull the cable along behind you, which makes it feel a little less immersion-breaking.

> Do I need to get some extension cables to allow more freedom of movement further away from my PC? If so, which ones?

I think so, assuming you have the play space. Oculus has some recommended cables. I bought these 10ft extensions on Amazon and they have served me well with quite a few different headsets with no issues - HDMI and USB

Well, not really.

Accessories normally have a higher margin but even those are somewhat competitive. For example Best Buy sells house brand USB extension cables for $4.99. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/dynex-6-usb-a-to-usb-a-extension-cable-black/8610285.p?skuId=8610285

The $300 cables are audiophile snake oil that no reasonable person would even consider. Like this one: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-carbon-9-8-hdmi-cable-black-dark-gray/9892524.p?skuId=9892524

And that's nothing compared to what you can find at Amazon, like these $2700 HDMI cables from the same manufacturer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT2A6I/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_4_r

I do not work for Best Buy, nor have I purchased anything from them in the past 2 years. I used to work for one of their vendors though.

We're talking like $120 for an active DP to DVI adapter which supports 144hz.

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=DP2DVID2&qid=1554150153&s=gateway&sr=8-1

You'd honestly be better off just buying a new monitor

yes a very good vaporize, what is your point? if you knew anything about how they are made you would know how silly you sound shit the most expensive part is the wood and what's there is like a dollars worth, according to you this must be the best HDMI ever http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top/179-9757774-1567653 sometimes people pay too much for a product and believe because they paid more they are getting a better product even it's the same thing it's called the Price Placebo Effect look it up.

I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/

I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/

Alright, so I chose this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B19T7QC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
and this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002XVYZ82/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

I should get 144hz then. Thanks for the help man you just saved me like £50 :D

Yes there is! Buy DisplayPort 1.4 cables. Here's an Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=displayport+1.4&qid=1556579585&s=gateway&sr=8-5
I wish you the best gaming experience!

What is the resolution of the monitor?

If it's greater than 1920 x 1200 (i.e. 2560 x 1440/1600), you likely need an active DP to dual-link DVI adapter, such as this one:

Startech DisplayPort to DVI Dual Link Active Adapter Converter

The active adapter will need to be plugged into a USB port to power it.

Otherwise, you will be fine with just a passive video cable such as this (much cheaper):

AmazonBasics DisplayPort to DVI Cable - 6 Feet

I have no experience with it but one of the reviews on this cable Says "perfect for 165 hz monitor at 1440p".

It looks like you just want to make sure it's at least version 1.2 of displayport.

Only DVI-I supports analog, DVI-D is digital only. And DP also supports analog signals natively.

As for converting component RGB signal, HDMI might actually be your best bet, as this conversion is done in a lot of AV/Home Theater setups, so there's a lot of support/hardware for it.

So something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Portta-YPbPr-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid

I had this same problem. A fresh installation of windows fixed it for me.

On the other hand, the problem is most likely the converters you are using. They are known to cause issues. If a fresh windows installation doesn’t fix it, I recommend buying an active converter like this one. Read the description on the page for more info.

I don’t know if that monitor supports hdmi 2.0 but if it doesn’t here’s an adapter from DisplayPort to dvi that will support 144hz

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=asc_df_B00A493CNY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o7&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11864583369199119158&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=2840&hvtargid=pla-314819641165&psc=1

EDIT: looks like the monitor supports 144hz over DisplayPort

EDIT2: read that you don’t have DisplayPort available on the monitor. The adapter should work, but is a little expensive

Okay so since this thread is just gaining traction, I'll post my review:

I had a benq xl2411.

Ordered one of these from costco

First one came in looking like someone had either literally kicked a hole into the box or it had eaten the corner of a bench or something during shipping. The monitor faces outward in the packaging, and you could tell on the cloth-type styrofoam pad around the monitor that something had come into contact with it (there was an indentation and slight rip in the styrofoam cloth), it had a mark on it when I turned it on that almost looked like a nail pressing. Guessing it ate the corner of a bench.

Returned it, got another one shipped to me very quickly (only a couple days shipping). New one also has issues that i'll discuss in a sec.

Colors are amazing, especially if you follow this guy's guide


Very bright, very vibrant colors. Coming from the benq xl2411 it felt like day and night difference, what I expect some people describe is the difference between a TN and IPS panel is. Like some games that used to be dull and boring to look at were suddenly vivid and interesting.

Extremely smooth framerate. I went from using Lightboost on the benq (which capped it to 120hz) to using this with 240hz and its a huge difference imo, as big as 60 to 120 was, for me, at least. I also have a rig that can handle 240 on ultra on most games now.

The cables it comes with are kind of short, and it only comes with an HDMI cable. For the full bandwidth of 1080p 240hz gaming, you need a displayport 1.2 cable that has been tested and received VESA certification. I got this one

The stand it actually nice, at least for my desk setup. And the color of it goes well with my white Yamaha HS8's.

The legs are almost as wide as the monitor though, this might not work for those of you who have cramped desk space.

Anyway, so this panel started doing this weird flickering thing for me, similar to the picture that this person took but mine is a vertical strip, 3-4 inches wide slightly to the right of the screen (so not as wide as the picture in that forum post). It would do this once every day or two very quickly for only a few frames. Then it started happening multiple times a day, sometimes lasting for a second or two, sometimes involving horizontal flickering of a similar type. It also seems to sometimes have weird flickering/color issues around certain objects that pop up quickly in a game.

The other day, the entire vertical segment that is a few inches wide became gray. It wasn't like the monitor was turned off in that area, it was just a completely gray band (but backlit), and it wouldn't render anything that was happening on my computer there, but it would still render my desktop or any program on either side of it.

Because it did that gray thing, I finally called in and decided to stop ignoring the problem and exchange for another one.

A day after I put in the return, I was playing binding of isaac windowed on the larger half of the screen that was still visible, and then it did the flickering thing again and the gray band went away. It still does the flickering thing every few hours for a split second.

I do not know what causes this, and I am hoping it is a bad panel, and getting the new one will fix the problem.

It is still a good monitor, and if the third one I get doesn't have any issues, I'll be really happy with the purchase.

From what I have read and what you have said that makes me feel more confident that it is the cable provided with the monitor.

Apparently for DP 1.2 the cable needs to have the removal of a certain pin that is in the free cables that come with the monitors.

My new cable comes in today I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks!



Update: Cable defiantly fixed it, I have had no issues since I switched. Gforce experience used to cause all of the problems to happen at once but now it works perfectly.

Link for anyone having similar issues:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_zm1Z6gUOuHJpw

Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable - $6.89

The best part is, they aren't expensive. I use these and they work perfectly with Dolby Vision and HDR10.

okay so what you need is a displayport/dvi to VGA adapter
dvi to vga,
displayport to vga.
even though there is a pretty big price difference, either will work just fine, just giving you options. you will plug one end of the adapter into the card and the cord goes from the other end to the monitor. Then it should work with the monitor, and will be able to dual screen or mirror screen with the monitor and TV if you wish.

Wow, I would have never figured this out on my own. Thank you.

Would you recommend something like this: https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-1920x1200-Converter/dp/B004SUO1GM

Or this: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Eyefinity-Technology/dp/B00EDT01TO

1 would support 144Hz, but you'd need an active powered Displayport to dual link DVI adapter as well, and #2 isn't one of those.

Something like this Startech adapter is what you need, with that mini Displayport to Displayport adapter.

I really want to be wrong because an 80 buck adapter would suck to require, but I swear when I was researching this I read that you have to make absolute sure your adapter is an active one or it won't enable 144 hz.

Something like this:

You can tell it's an active one because it plugs into a usb for a power input to enable the 144 hz conversion.

Here's the Amazon link. You'll also need a miniDP to DP cable, like this one (cheapest I could find). I couldn't find a DP version on the manufacturer's website, but according to this overclock.net thread, you should get the full 144hz. Good luck!

If you are looking to make an extension cord I got one working using these:

• HDMI to DVI
  
• USB 3 extension
  
• High quality HDMI extension
  
  The HDMI to DVI is critical as DVI port gets more power allocated to it on your graphics card. It didn't work at all when I tested it without that. I do get a tiny bit of visual artifacts on all black loading screens (maybe a better hdmi cable could fix that) but all in all I am very happy with how it turned out. Now my headset cable is 5.5 meters long and I never have any problems playing room scale.

Dude did you look at the reviews for that adapter you posted? There are folks talking about how it doesn't work great at 144hz.

I get you were trying got show an example but might want to update your post in case folks don't bother reading the reviews.

[Edit] This might be a better adapter, seems to have better reviews. Cost a bit more though. So folks might want to look at just upgrading their display if they have the money.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=psdc_3236443011_t1_B00DYRQXMK

HDMI via a booster and standard cable

Signal Booster (prevents picture dropout and headset screen going black)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01E14L5YA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Basics 3m HDMI Cable

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Via USB 3 3m passive extender . Can't remember the brand I bought but amazon basics ones are amazing quality. If they had been available when I ordered I would have got one of these. (3m passive cables are unreliable for sensors, but seem to work fine with my headset, prob because of the lower bandwidth required).

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Male-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B00NH12O5I/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1493135898&sr=1-2&keywords=3m+usb+3+extension+cable

There's no difference, but it really sucks having to lookout for a GPU that has a DVI port when looking to upgrade and very soon there probably wont be any high end GPU's with a DVI port. Adapters only support 60hz unless you get a very expensive active adapter which might support 120hz at best but it could also add input lag and overall just isn't worth it at all.

Definitely worth trying a new cable. Also, for what it's worth, not all cables are equal - this is regarded as one of the better DisplayPort cables available in case you're interested:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got mine last week. It does come with a display port cable, although the GTX690 uses mini display port, you will need a mini display port cable to display port. I recommend this one http://amzn.com/B002XVYZ82 I have 2 gtx Titans hooked to mine. Look on tftcentral for the "optimized" monitor settings. Something like -Racing mode, 26 Brightness, then the RGB settings. Monitor is in freaking credible. Also, just to give you a heads up, the light for gsync will stay red (meaning enabled) even at the desktop. This is a confirmed bug nvidia is working on so don't spend the hours I did to troubleshoot. lol also, when gsync is turned on, it also turns vsync on in the nvidia control panel. This is normal. Vsync kicks on after 144 fps and gsync handles everything up to 144fps. All this is normal and fine. Disable vsync in game though. I'll post a video in a second for you of the clarity O.O

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OC6LWM/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details

$9 Mini DisplayPort to HDMI and if you have a new enough Mac, it supports sound through DisplayPort as well. There's a list on the apple webpage for which computers are supported. I bought one and it works great.

It's 1440p 120hz so it costs a bit more for an active adapter that supports that resolution and Hz to get it to work and hopefully stay overclocked to 120hz. I'm just hoping for one more generation of compatibility because by then there should be 4k 90Hz or above and then I'll upgrade.

I use these 10' cables to extend the link box and have had zero issues. The Amazon basics HDMI is pretty good quality and I make sure to plug the Cable Matters USB 3.0 wire into a 2.0 port.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T0YQ/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_apip_UqC38H59ci4DL

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSS9KJY/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_apip_IaA2Y3O6wb2iK

So these are small things that may or may not be useful to you but I bought them when I got my Vive and if I were buying again, I'd get these again.

To extend the cable I got HDMI Extenders and USB Extenders. This gives you another 10 feet of cord to play with.

Also, switches for the lighthouses. You may find that using Bluetooth works fine, but I like physically switching mine on and off.

If you plan to move it around (take to places for demos) then I have some other recommendations too.

The sound would go out and screen would black out for a second or 2 then come back on and it would be okay for a few minutes then repeat with the stock PS4 Pro cable. I switched to this cable from monoprice. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Haven't had any problems with the screen blacking out or sound issues. Another good cable I've heard people say works great is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DI8A1NW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3L31F4KTJOMGN&coliid=I2N5CQDFP3Y2FI&psc=1

It sucks that Sony cheaped out on the cable but I'm just happy it's working correctly now.

Final edit for now: This method produces suitably high-res videos on the hard drive, but they lose a ton of fidelity when they get uploaded. I'll leave this up for now; hopefully someone can advise.

This isn't as ideal as an all-inclusive app, but there is a pretty easy way to do what you need if you have access to a MacBook. You would want to:

• Connect the MacBook to the projector (you might find this item helpful)
  
• Connect the iPad Pro to the MacBook
  
• Boot up the preinstalled copy of QuickTime Player on the MacBook
  
• Select New Movie Recording from the file menu
  
• In the window that pops up, click the little arrow next to the record button and change the camera to the iPad Pro
  
• Drag the window as needed for your projection
  
• Boot up ZoomNotes on the iPad Pro
  
• Make the QuickTime window full screen
  
• Start recording
  
  It seems somewhat involved, but it took me more time to write out these directions than it did to actually record and upload a sample video. Total cake after you do it once or twice.
  
  Hope this helps!

It's just a different type of port. It is better than HDMI and allows for higher resolutions than 1080p, but it's not used quite as often.

Here is the cord I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OC6LWM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1380941200&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165

You can see it pretty clearly on this page, just below the charge port: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/html/pbPage.PDPS/productID.286866600

Hey man,

Thanks for the reply, think I'll set it up like this.

Would an adapter like this one work?

Tried to find an active one like people suggested but not too sure if that's what was meant.

Thanks

HDMI cables only support up to 60Hz, only DVI and DP do 144Hz. I highly recommend DP's.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE
This is probably the best one you can buy right now.

You can get an RX 550 like this.

It's the second cheapest modern card I could find on PCPartPicker, right behind the GT 1030 DDR4.

I didn't pick the other card since it only comes with 1 x HDMI and 1 x DVI-D.

The RX 550 on the other hand comes with 1 x HDMI and 1 x DisplayPort.

You can get a simple DisplayPort to HDMI cable like this one on Amazon to be able to use the second port.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
Video Card | ASRock - Radeon RX 550 - 512 2 GB Phantom Gaming Video Card | $84.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $84.99
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-04-05 09:12 EDT-0400 |
- - -
And on eBay, you could get this RX 460 for $63 (although this doesn't really matter to you, it's about twice as powerful as the RX 550).

It has 1 x HDMI, 1 x DisplayPort, and 1 x DVI-D.

You could use the same DisplayPort adapter that I mentioned above.
- - -
You actually go even lower in price, but I'd recommend the checking out the used market (e.g. eBay) for that.

DisplayPort and thunderbolt share the same connector, unless it's using the full-sized display port on the monitor. You shouldn't need an adapter, just a cord with the full size displayport on one end and a Mini DisplayPort on the other. Your hdmi connector may only support 4K at 30, as 60+ is a newer feature of recent hdmi revisions. DisplayPort will though, and the Mac is certainly capable of it!

Edit: this sort of cord might be what you want, if the DisplayPort on the monitor is full-sized: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002XVYZ82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UUmwybVEM6VFC

When I first got my BenQ XL2730Z (144hz 1440p) monitor it flickered like that, like it kept dropping the signal for some reason. I did some research and people recommended getting a better quality DP cable, which I did and it fixed it, and it's been smooth sailing ever since. It's sad that the cable the monitor came with wasn't able to handle the highest resolution + highest refresh rate, but oh well. I'm just glad it works now.

http://www.displayport.org/cables/how-to-choose-a-displayport-cable-and-not-get-a-bad-one/

The DP cable I have now...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE

I recently bought a new monitor, and from what I understand, DisplayPort cables that are packed with them aren't often high quality, which would explain some of the issues I'm having with Freesync (blurriness and discoloration when scrolling, mostly). I'm looking at the Accell cables that seem to be suggested by a lot of users on here, but I wanted to make sure that buying the DP 1.2 cables instead of the newer 1.4 cables would be fine. I'm using an RX 480, if that matters. Thanks!

The following works with the HMD+ with none of the audio screeching I had on the original Samsung. I have 20 hours VR play since the headset arrived from Microsoft last Friday.

Gigabyte X99 G1 USB 3.0 port to:
Cable Matters Active USB 3.0 Extension Cable (USB 3 Extension Cable/USB Extension Cable Male to Female) 16.4 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to
Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs included 5V/2.5A power adapter (HB-UMP3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to Odyssey HMD+.

Nvidia 980 HDMI Port
to
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to Odyssey HMD+

OK, all becoming clearer now. Very much appreciated.
So, I have the link you gave me, which I now know "leads" to the cable I need. (pun intended)

And then there's this, which is below 10 GBP. (around 10 USD) However, based on your advice, I now believe that this isn't what I need.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Mini-DisplayPort-Adapter-Cable/dp/B002XVYZ82/ref=pd_cart_vw_2_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JXRS4228RRSVJYW6DN1Z

Thanks again.

The cable that comes with the Pro is actually not premium certified. It doesn't come with the QR code that verifies premium certification.

http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/premiumcable/Premium_HDMI_Cable_Certification_Program.aspx

It certainly may be good enough for most people, but unlike premium certified cables, it wasn't tested to guarantee full 4K bandwidth in every situation. So yes if you get signal dropout or it drops down from 4K to 1080p I'd recommend getting an actual premium certified cable, such as this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Gw18ybHCMF9NN

If you're able to use the full 10x10, I'd recommend hanging your headset cable from the ceiling with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll need to extend your headset cable which I can confirm these work perfectly for that:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XM1WE0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9VOKIQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought a 5x1 4K switch just for this purpose and it's been great. That way I have a single input to my 4K tv, but can switch between the sources with the remote that comes with the switch.

This is the one I got:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV5YJ6H

Make sure you get good high-speed HDMI cables for each connection, too:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O

​

Order a Monoprice certified premium high speed cable. It’s just over $6 for 6 ft. That’s long enough for most installations. There are better made cables out there but these are more than good enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O

They’re cheaper if you buy them from Monoprice but end up costing the same or more after tax and shipping especially if you have Amazon Prime. If you have Prime order from Amazon.

You need an active displayport to dual-link dvi adapter to get 144 hz on your third monitor. An active adapter has a USB connection for additional power. I assume you are using a passive adapter (without USB connection) and that will not cut it. Active adapters are also pretty expensive (~$100).

Example: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/

I used:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and have had great success.

I have this sound bar, but the X900F tv, and both Dolby Vision and Atmos work with my AppleTV 4K so your setup should work. I’m using the AmazonBasics High-Speed 4K HDMI Cable.

Other than trying different cables, ensure that the cable plugged into the tv is going into a port that supports all features. On the X900F this is HDMI 3, it might be similar on the 950.

Edit: I should mention that I’m also using ARC and pass through on the sound bar (i.e. the same configuration that I believe you’re using).

Check the ports on your GPU and look what gets shipped with the monitor.
My GPU only has a miniDP (its basically the same, just different formfactor) but my monitor only came with a standard-sized DP cable so I also had to order a "DP to miniDP"-cable aswell.

Make sure this doesnt happen to you.

PS: In terms of brand I wouldn't worry too much. Just go to amazon or something and take one around 10 bucks.... like this one for example

This is a good option to get DV at a good price. There is also a belkin cable food for DV. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
For best DV results, stuck to 2m/6ft cables.

The DVI-HDMI cable is in my opinion the best option. HDMI and single-link DVI are similar on the signal level and the adapter/adapter-cable is passive, simple and cheap.

In case you definitely want to use the VGA input on your old display you could do the following:
The DVI-I natively carries a VGA signal on the 4 additional pins so you can get a DVI-I VGA adapter and the HDMI-DVI cable. Use the HDMI-DVI cable for your main display and the VGA cable with the adapter for the second display.

Hey n00b...hit me up when you're ready to step up your game. You haven't lived until you step up to a $13,500 AudioQuest Diamond braided HDMI cable, wrapped around some $12,500 Naturelle Plus Maxi Pads with Wings. Be sure to get the ones with wings, as they add flavor. Us "pros" call them "flavor wings".

You're not really a serious vaper until you've stepped up your vape game like the rest of us adults.

Do you mind helping me with the Radeon 5450?

I have 2 VGA monitors, so I would need one VGA to DVI-I converter and the hdmi should be fine. Is this correct?

Also, would this Radeon 5450 be able to play smaller games like Minecraft or Civ V

THIS FINE CABLE MAY IMPROVE YOUR VIEWING/HEARING EXPERIENCE. IT WILL BE WORTH EVERY PENNY.

It looks like your monitor has three inputs: (i) DVI-D; (ii) VGA; (iii) DisplayPort. And it looks like your laptop has two outputs: (i) HDMI; (ii) Mini DisplayPort.

If that's correct, you've got two good options:

• HDMI to DVI cable
  
• Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort
  
  For this application, either will work. If you've got the soundbar for the monitor, DisplayPort will allow audio to also be transmitted with the video, while DVI won't.
  
  

DP to hdmi. And i have tried all different brands and they all work good. I love amazon basic cables and their stuff.

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W

Something like this would work, but it's pretty expensive: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499987705&sr=8-3&keywords=DisplayPort+dual+link+dvi

Supposedly this one is also a dual link adapter for a lot less money, so it might be worth a shot: https://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-DisplayPort-DVI-D-Active-Adapter/dp/B00DYRQXMK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499988035&sr=8-1&keywords=DisplayPort+dual+link+dvi

Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=displayport+to+dvi+dual+link+adapter&qid=1557171702&s=electronics&sr=1-3

You'll have to do research and make sure they can do 144hz, there is a cheaper dell one that appears not to, without issues anyway.

The one I think seems to be fine, but its worth double checking I just searched the reviews/answers for 144 and one person said it worked, I make to guarantees and don't have time to check thoroughly.

You need a displayport to dual link dvi active adapter, but just because they are one doesn't mean they will always have 144hz compatibility.

I just threw on this Gigabyte HD 7970 on my new gaming PC and it works like a charm. It's well know, reliable, and has multiple ports. While it says it doesn't have two HDMI ports right off the bat, it has one HDMI port and 2 mini display ports. You can easily get either a converter, or a cable that goes from mini display port to HDMI (here is one that is $5 for 6 ft, cheaper than some HDMI cables). Mine even came with an adapter in the box, so I'd definitely consider this as an option.

Sounds like a fake Amazon review... Oh god, how many of those "joke reviews" may have in fact been the real deal? I better get me a few AudioQuest Diamond HDMI Cables.

Have you tried to use Display Driver Uninstaller to remove and reinstall drivers? First thing you should do when you upgrade your GPU and have issues with video output.
https://www.wagnardsoft.com/

I run the coween adapter
a 10ft Amazon Basics High Speed HDMI Cable
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-1-Pack/dp/B014I8T0YQ?th=1
and an amazon basics 10ft USB 3.0 Extension (not active) plugged into my front USB 3.0 port to get rid of the static.
All goes well.
GPU: EVGA 1080 FTW Hybrid.

Sorry for pic quality! There's a light in the way XD. I used a 10ft cable extension, command strip hooks, zip ties, and a dog leash to make my Oculus cord retractable!

Purchased items(US):

• Dog leash (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LCECNES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• command strips (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084M696K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• 10ft passive HDMI (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• HDMI repeater (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• 10ft usb3.0 cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  Total: ~40$
  
  

In theory most cables will work, but if something is slightly out of tolerance high refresh/resolution can be problematic.

If you want a high-quality AV grade cable I recommend Accell: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B0098HVZBE/

Comprehensive is good too: https://www.amazon.com/Comprehensive-Cable-DISP-HD-3ST-Standard-DisplayPort/dp/B006X0OBAQ/

1.) Buy some:

• cheap wall/ceiling mounts - https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap-Metal-Bracket-Security-Camera/dp/B00UVCKZZ2/ref=pd_sim_107_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YWPFSDBSZ19JTXY8JFYZ
  
  
• and extension cables - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• or https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 if you need something longer.
  
  
• Mount sensors to the ceiling.
  
  
• Profit.
  
  You might want to extend Rift's cables. I use:
  
  
• amazon basic 3 meter USB 3.0 extender -
  https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• amazon basic 3 meter HDMI extender - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• cable management system - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XT2XLZ5 (thank you, u/Mugendon! - https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/65ibit/finally_an_out_of_the_box_working_oculus_rift/)
  
  
  2.) My Rift lays on the table. I cover it with a towel (with a moomin on it xD)

So I had this issue when I upgraded my build from a 1060 to a 2080. You are going to need an ACTIVE converter such as this one https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter-DP2DVID2/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1513520995&sr=8-5&keywords=displayport+to+dual+link+dvi

You won't get 144hz without an active converter. You can find one for cheaper but you get what you pay for with these. Also these are not a guaranteed fix, it may be in your best interest to get a new monitor that has displayport. It really sucks.

Edit: Not sure if these support 144hz properly, but works for 60hz. If anyone knows, please chime in.

Edit2: After some research, you need an active adapter, which are very pricey for proper 144hz output.

https://www.amazon.com/BuyCheapCables%C2%AE-Plated-Quality-DisplayPort-DVI-D/dp/B00H8CAOYK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466162692&sr=1-3&keywords=dual+dvi+to+displayport

Better to eat diamonds than buy Diamond HDMI Cables that cost more than 4 top of the line laptops, a top of the line desktop, and all the peripherals combined.

Oooopsies, I think I may have accidentally exposed a few people to a new magnitude of stupidity separate from TiA norms. Well hey, at least these reviews are funny.

Amazon Basics do huge HDMI cables and they work great.
Standard
Braided
Both under $10.
I run a Pro with 4K HDR with one of these.

Nevermind, missed the SB[2]. Depending on the monitor, 3.0 to HDMI Video Graphics Adapter with Audio for Multiple Monitors up to 2560x1440 for around $20.


Depending on the monitor, the most you might need is an mDP to HDMI (preferably active) adapter for about $18 or maybe a Mini DP to DP Cable for $9 if your monitor supports it. If you start to think multi-monitor (screen real estate) I'm a fan of the Microsoft Dock, which gives you two mDP and other nice features like 4 full-powered USB 3.0 ports.

Just return the monitor, or get a different 1080 Ti. In order to achieve the 144hz on your monitor, you're going to need a TRUE Active Displayport to DVI-D converter. That shit is not cheap and for the cost difference, you could get a better monitor.

If you do decide to keep both, this is what you're gonna need. I think you're better off returning the monitor though and investing those funds into a newer model with DP.

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-B087B-002B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U

Yeah this is normal I have the Same one does the same thing for me...

your best bet for Converting to HDMI and Upscaleing are these 2 items or just get a Used Wii U since it plays Wii Games in 1080p.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14Y9I/

Okay, just making sure. All hdmi cables are pretty much the same as far as personal use goes. Unless something broken with the cable, it won't affect performance.

And this is the super crazy expensive HDMI cable on Amazon (I guess they felt that stretching it to 16m was worth the extra $15,000) : http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415383294&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+hdmi

Well, you did just buy a new expensive monitor so there's no reason not to spend a couple extra bucks on a good cable. TBH I'd get a cable with significantly more reviews like the one I linked below.

If you do end up getting a cable that doesn't work (assuming you checked the spec if it's listed) Amazon's return policy would probably cover it.

I actually got that same monitor a couple days ago and my gpu only has 2x mini DP (and hdmi/dvi) and this cable works fine for me https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YOQYQWY. However my HD 7770 doesn't support freesync. (I'm getting a new 480 soon!)

While these cables are impressive, they are just cheap knock off's of the original.

You want quality, you go with AudioQuest. Diamond infused HDMI cables are where it's at.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

I'd recommend looking for a component to HDMI adapter instead of buying a new display. Plus Monitor are generally better than TVs especially when using a PC.

I just found one https://www.amazon.com/Portta-N3CVRHP-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6

hope this helps.

I know most people are saying any modern HDMI cable will work, but this is not entirely correct.


There was a test done that I’ll have to look up regarding HDMI cables ability to transmit full 4K and HDR content. Only a few of like 20 cables were able to consistently deliver the content correctly, even though all advertised they could.


I’ve had issues trying to get full 4K HDR content to work correctly on both my appletv and Xbox One x. After going through a dozen or so different “high speed” cable brands that all promised 18gbps and HDR compatibility, the only ones I found to consistently work were the Monoprice premium cables. Interestingly, this was also consistent with the previously mentioned results.


My other cables would work intermittently and drop out, leading to some major issues trying to figure out what was wrong. After hours of messing around and them buying a ton of cables, I came to this conclusion.


My suggestion, buy this cable either through amazon or monoprice.com and be done with it:
Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

You need an active DP/DVI adapter if you want more than 60Hz. You can tell the adapter is active if it has an additional USB cable for power.

Something like this.

Hahahaha dirty peasant,

My [diamond coated HDMI Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376520150&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+hdmi) has greatly enhanced my tv experience! It's amazing how vivid the picture looks. I mean it's so crystal clear that I actually jumped into my tv like mario does in Super mario 64. Next thing you know im in the middle of the Gobi desert being chased by Mongolian death worms. Luckily I managed to catch a breath of air and called out to my Diamond HDMI Cable. The cable in all it's magnificent Diamond Coated glory killed the Death worms with ease and pulled me out of the tv and back into my living room. I'm telling you these cables are worth it, I can't wait for Call of Puppies, I mean call of duty ghost to come out. Then I can finally live my dream of running around with a bunch of dogs, shooting down terrorist.

Display Support:Dual DisplaysResolution Support:1920x1200*

Details:*This model simultaneously supports 1920x1200 on an HDMI display or a DVI display using the included HDMI-to-DVI adapter and 2560x1600 on a Thunderbolt or Mini DisplayPort display or even a VGA display (with an optional Mini DisplayPort-to-VGA adapter, which is compatible with the Thunderbolt port).

2nd Display Support:Dual/Mirroring*2nd Max. Resolution:2560x1600*

Details:*This model simultaneously supports 1920x1200 on an HDMI or a DVI display (using the included HDMI-to-DVI adapter) and 2560x1600 on a Thunderbolt or Mini DisplayPort display or even a VGA display (with an optional Mini DisplayPort-to-VGA adapter, which is compatible with the Thunderbolt port).

Source: https://everymac.com/systems/apple/mac_mini/specs/mac-mini-core-i5-2.5-late-2012-specs.html

Given the ports on this monitor, which appear to be mDP (1), DP (2), HDMI (1), your options seem to be to use a mDP <> DP cable or adapter to get the full benefit. The HDMI Port (HDMI <> HDMi) would give you 1920x1200 but a mDP port would give you up to 2500x1600 or in this case, 2560 x 1440. HDMI ports in the newer model Minis can drive higher resolution (5k I believe) because they are HDMI 1.4 or 2.0, but the '12 model uses an older 1.2 or 1.3 HDMI standard. So, maybe something like this.

Hard. Like the diamonds used in the best HDMI cable ever! Only $13499.75! Shipping only $3.99! Get yours now at https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

You really want to use a braided diamond filament HDMI cable or you're going to get a serious bottleneck in your cognitive transmission. Trust me, these are a real solid value for the money, although if you really want to cut down on the latency you're going to have to go with something a little more high end.

Purchasing an extra sensor comes with a Monoprice USB extension cable, but other than that, These worked for me:

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 5 Meters/16.4 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Fw8SCFQE4HwKp

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_n4vo6UArwEca1

My booting issue is that it crashes the second before I reach my desktop, like it becomes completely unresponsive and the image is frozen. It crashes at exact the same point every single time.
I can give it a try though, will have find out how to make that work.

The displayport that was provided with the monitor is a 1.2 I think, pretty sure it is exactly this model: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-DisplayPort-Cable-Locking-Latches/dp/B0098HVZBE/

You will need active dual link to support high refresh rate. The price is one of the reasons why I upgraded my screen.

StarTech.com DisplayPort to DVI Adapter - Dual-Link - Active DVI-D Adapter for Your Monitor / Display - USB Powered - 2560x1600 (DP2DVID2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4BYtDbZV80VDP

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B003OC6LWM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2C2WSYFK07OWY&colid=ERJRWF83N1LV

I'm your average broke college kid and I would love to have this to take back home with me for the holidays. thank you!!

Did your video card come with any DVI/VGA adapters? The last 4 or so cards that i bought all allowed me to use a VGA with it. Also, i dont think ive ever seen a video card that had male ports. The top 280 sapphire card looks female. I think any cable should really work so long as you have adapters. Since you already have a VGA, you might as well get something like this. I would assume tech stores would carry them, so something like Frys and Microcenter would for sure have them.

This is why I was thinking it would have been nice if we created a list from the start where we compile what hardware works and what doesn't, both for USB cables, and HDMI, and motherboards too.

But in any case, if it's useful, these work for me:

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Extension-Cable-10-FT/dp/B00GBBSZFE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Nice, I just bought this HDMI extender and it DOESN'T work. Just an FYI for anyone interested. http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Extension-Cable-10-FT/dp/B00GBBSZFE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

According to this spec sheet, you can run the monitor over HDMI at 30Hz. This is likely due to the fact that the port is only HDMI 1.4 and not HDMI 2.0 (which is necessary to run the monitor at 60Hz).

That said, your best bet is to get an mini-DP to DisplayPort adapter cable (like this one). Thunderbolt cables are more pricey and don't provide any benefit unless your monitor supports Thunderbolt (which may allow you to use the display as a dock) / Thunderbolt pass-through to another TB device.

Expensive item

Cheap Banana slicer with awesome reviews

Chuckle worthy thing

Most hdmi cables can’t support that so I would recommend getting another display port here is the one that I use and works great while still being relatively cheap
ivanky DisplayPort Cable 6.6ft DP Cable Nylon Braided [2K@165Hz, 2K@144Hz, 4K@60Hz] Display Port Cable High Speed DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable Compatible PC, Laptop, TV - Slim Aluminum Shell, Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nOjqDbV5PKJQA

That's because high speed cables have at minimum 10.2 gbps bandwidth (this is the full bandwidth of the old HDMI 1.4 spec) and are not capable of the full 18gbps bandwidth of the HDMI 2.0 spec, required for 4k60.
Just like the port on your TV and on your source device need to be "4k60" the cable does as well.

When buying HDMI cables always look for the two keywords before buying:
18gbps (18 gigabytes per second), and 4k@60 (or just 4k60).
If you want to be extra sure, HDMI has a certification program, and cables that have passed are marketed as "Premium High Speed HDMI Cable". These certified cable will be able to handle everything that HDMI 2.0 could possibly throw at them. More on that, including how to ensure you are buying a genuine cable that was actually certified, here: https://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/premiumcable/faq.aspx
Even if you are buying a certified cable still make sure it has the two keywords 18gbps and 4k@60.
These certified cables aren't even expensive, for example here is a 6ft monoprice premium certified cable i found with a 30 second Amazon search for $5.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543465057&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=premium+high+speed+hdmi+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=31vnewgtCfL&ref=plSrch

You can skip the rest of this comment if you want, it's just about why you should never buy expensive HDMI cables, bandwidth is only thing that matters.

(And by the way expensive HDMI cables are stupid. Since it's an error corrected digital signal, if you are getting a picture at all it is identical to what the source device sent out, same with audio. Bandwidth (18 gbps!) is the only thing that actually matters when buying HDMI cable, as that will dictate what features you can send down the cable (4k60, HDR, ect.) And if the cable actually gives you a picture and audio at all, rest assured it is bit for bit identical to what the source device sent. (Although there is an EXTREMELY RARE and EXTREMELY OBVIOUS issue, occasionally seen in cheap or damaged cables, that causes many pixels to be pure 255,255,255 white. You'd know if this was happening. If it looks normal, it's bit perfect signal.
And there is no audio version of this, if there is any issue with the audio at all it will not be played and you will hear nothing.
So don't let anyone tell you that more expensive HDMI cables have superior picture or audio, it's not true, the bandwidth is the only thing that will actually affect anything.)

Sorry for any typographical errors, I typed all this on a Razer Phone 2.

> I was very amused by the claims of these guys, saying that reflective light was easier on the eyes... such a load of crap.

You OBVIOUSLY haven't spent a lot of time with the technology then, or haven't used the proper equipment. Properly reflected light, reflected off a alloyed gold (or better yet, platinum) based reflector, through a diamond refractor will produce a VERY crisp image that you can look at for hours with no strain. The benefit of using platinum instead of gold is that gold provides just a hit of coloring, whereas platinum provides all the warmth of gold with more accurate colors, but some people just like to cheap out.

Geeze, next you'll be spouting off about how my AudioQuest HDMI Cables are no better than some Amazon Basic crap. :D

I got this one and it works great. Says supports up to 2k (1440p) not 4k if you're looking to upgrade. Just check out reviews and you can always return

Edit: Meant this dp to dp

I know it’s sucks on Nintendo’s part, but luckily Amazon basics solve so many of these issues cheaply:

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable, 10 Feet, 1-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T0YQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4CW4Bb68B25H6

Dual Link DVI (or DVI in general) is a thing of the past. You'll need a special active Displayport to Dual Link DVI adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

The Ivanky one on amazon has great reviews and has served me well for the past few weeks that I've had it. It also comes with a lifetime warranty, which I was informed of by email after the package arrived.
https://www.amazon.com/ivanky-DisplayPort-Braided-Display-Compatible/dp/B078HVDMW2

This is the one I use. Works great. I got lucky and got it for about about $10 on eBay though. https://www.amazon.com/Portta-N3CVRHP-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521116497&sr=1-1&keywords=portta+component+to+hdmi&dpID=41mr9xhIDBL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Yes there are component to HDMI converters, like this one:

Portta PETRHP V1.3 Component RGB Plus R/L to HDMI Converter Support 1080p for DVD PS3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_6YNGub1BPK617

The Q1 is far better than the DF Black and its size is palpable. The internal battery of the Q1 will also prevent super fast drainage of your phone's battery.

Audioquest is mostly selling overpriced garbage and $2000 HDMI cables

It will work fine in that configuration, the card can drive 2 different things at different refresh rates and resolutions without issue. Get a good DP cable though like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B0098HVZBE

Dell makes expensive shit. It looks nice ad works but I feel its overpriced for what it is. I have 2 Dell monitors here and I love the aesthetics but they aren't worth what I paid for them IMO. Don't know about AOC.

Thanks so would something like this displayport work fine for me?

Yeah unlike many other cables, Display Port cables can be pretty sensitive, and quality matters. Get the shortest cable length and highest quality you can. Accel cables are the most highly recommended. This is the one I have https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qVaGzb5NG3HRX

You will need one of these cables

A little pricey but you will have the best AD4K experience.

One example of some pretty good trolling on Amazon are the reviews for Amazon's most expensive HDMI cable.

You need to use DVI Dual Link, which you can only get through a kinda expensive active converter from DisplayPort https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478814997&sr=8-1&keywords=startech+displayport+dual+link+dvi

Swapping the monitor to one with DisplayPort or swapping the card for one with DVI may be better value.

supports DisplayPort - (standard size) you can buy adapters cheap that will take just about any connector to that type connector.

if your laptop has MiniDP output, this would work perfectly:

https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-DisplayPort-Cable-Ready-Plated/dp/B00YOQYQWY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526911189&sr=8-3&keywords=mini+display+port+to+display+port+cables

Welcome! I have a few suggestions that might help you out

• For you connectivity issues- you can get a cheap $10 displayport to mini displayport cable so your display can stay on HDMI. It seems you already know that, but hopefully you won't need your workaround very long
  
  
• For the sickness, have you set the IPD (Inter pupillary distance) on your HMD? There's a small knob on the right. You can measure this yourself with a ruler and a mirror, or have your optician do it. I noticed when I didn't have mine right that I'd get a headache and nausea after exiting VR.

You need to get an [AudioQuest Diamond Braided HDMI Cable] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w). And get a long one so you can move your printer around. Free shipping on Amazon!

If all you want to do is salvage the monitor, you can try this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO1GM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this one at work for a 1080 monitor at 60hz. You can possibly get a
HDMI to DVI-D for cheap and then hopefully free you up to use a DP monitor in the future.

Does the graphics card have a DVI port? I'd get a VGA to DVI adapter over conversion to HDMI. Something like so. Make sure you get the right male/female solution.

Cheaper, simpler.

EDIT: But yes, a VGA to HDMI adapter should also work.

I had the same issue, give me a sec and I'll like the one that worked. It needs to be a truly active one, and that would require a USB connection to power it. If it doesnt specifically state it can handle 120hz and greater, then it will not support 120hz and greater.

[This is the one I have] (https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=pd_sim_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41YEgS06HRL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=4AQMZ0EENKCB7DDYZJ20), I should have done more research when buying my monitor as it doesn't even have HDMI 1.4 or newer to support 120hz, so the price of this definitely hurt, but it works.

I know it’s 6.6 feet, but https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HVDMW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_E1owCbTWNN4XR should work. It’s a great quality cable.

I am using this combo HDMI/USB 3.0 extension cable (10 feet). Don't need to worry about passive/active stuff, just plug and play. I have been using these for 3 weeks now and they are flawless.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That could be the issue. I don't see a Display Port 1.4 in the product description and the QA section is vague on this topic.

Try the Amazon Basics version and see if it fairs better. It is DP 1.2 certified.

AmazonBasics Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort Display Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PWQPFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yyH0DbBDD56WM

I currently use Amazon cables and the DP 1.4 cables definitely can hit 165hz on an older Acer Predator monitor that I had.

And to add, if you’re in the market for cables, I would recommend the Monoprice ones.


Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - 6 Feet - Black, 4K@60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4, Dual Video Stream https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lLNoDbTCC4RE9

For example. They have some slim ones too.

I just upgraded all my HDMI cables to these yesterday and everything works great.

Even better, there's a $2700 one, from everyone's favourite, AudioQuest. Better still, it has some add-on ethernet thing if you ever want to...I don't know, host a LAN party with your bluray player or something? *has no clue*