Streaming is really fun, but it can get complex relatively quickly depending on what you want to do. Once you overcome the hurdle of getting everything set up, it's a lot easier.

 

Step 1: Establish Scope

The first thing you need to do is establish the scope of what you want to accomplish. Do you simply want to stream the game from a fixed position camera and that be it? Or do you want to include additional elements to the stream? If you are relatively new to videography, it can be easier to simply start small and do a basic stream. For my recommendations, I will assume that you simply want to get a stream up and running, and after that we can talk about what you can do to make the stream more appealing.

 

Step 2: Setup Your Streaming Account

Your 2 options are YouTube Gaming or Twitch. While I am sure that there are other options out there, these are the best for what you are trying to accomplish, and I can personally vouch for both platforms. YouTube Gaming is nice because if you have a gmail account, you already have a YouTube account. Twitch is arguably more popular though, and it has the option of directly exporting to YouTube. Both are incredibly easy to setup and work with though. I have used Twitch in my personal life, and I have used YouTube with work. Both are fine, it's just your preference.

 

Step 3: Download your Broadcast Software

Open Broadcast Software

Again, there are other options here in this category, but OBS is free, easy, and designed to be used with both YouTube and Twitch.

 

Step 4: Test Your Equipment

You will need to plug up your camera, log in to your streaming platform, open your broadcast software, and run a test stream. Doing an effective stream is more than just plugging a camera into a computer and leaving it at that. Depending on the scope of what you want to do, you are probably going to have to purchase some hardware.

Depending on the type of camera you have, you may be able to simply plug it into your computer, turn it on webcam mode (if it has that feature) and start your stream. Not every camera is this straight forward though, and you will need to do some research on what your camera can and can't do. Some cameras will let you connect to a computer and stream directly to that computer. Note that streaming to a computer is different than streaming online. Some cameras only treat a computer as an external hard drive and require some sort of capture device to stream to the machine. We purchased a Magewell USB to HDMI capture device at work and it works very well. It's expensive, but good. You just need to research what your camera can and can't do.

 

Step 5: Promote Your Channel

Now that you have set up your channel and tested your equipment to make sure it works, all you have to do is go to your store, stream the game, and get people to watch it. Ask your FLGS if they will give you a direct line to their router. If they will, bring a long ass ethernet cable; you don't really want to stream HD video wirelessly. Also, ask them what their upload speeds are. Obviously you need a connection to the internet, but some stores don't have a great upload speed. You don't want to get there and find out that your stream is garbage because the store only has 2mb up or something like that.

And that's generally it. Create your channel with either YouTube or Twitch, download your broadcast software, and make sure that your equipment works. After you have setup your stream you can start to add things like audio commentary, music, transitions, overlays, or even additional cameras.

 

Audio Commentary

To do this, you are going to need a sound mixing board and some microphones if you want to have more than 1 person talking. This is actually not as hard as you would think. There are some relatively inexpensive USB sound boards that you can plug a microphone into. This isn't explicitly necessary, but a good audio commentary separates the poor streams from the better streams. If you can't do this, at least consider some background music.

 

Overlays

Find someone with good Photoshop skills and ask them to make you a 16:9 overlay for your stream. You will quickly find that streaming a game of X-Wing is hard to see if you are the viewer, and a good overlay communicates so much information to the viewer. Trinity Squad Gaming have my favorite. Team Covenant are also really good. Most streamers either ignore the overlay completely, or they have a crappy one. Don't be one of those streamers! There are plenty of really good artists on this sub-reddit. Hell, I will make you one if you want. Just let me know.

 

Final Thoughts

There is a lot more here that could be discussed. There are other guys here who have expressed interest in helping you get started. Feel free to reach out to any of us.

Funnily enough, RGB is old tech! It's a form of analog video output that's known to retro gaming enthusiasts as the best form of analog video output that many retro systems are capable of. If you want to know more, check out this video by My Life in Gaming. it goes into more detail. They also have an N64 specific video if you want to check that out too. Regardless, I'll give you some very simplified cliff notes. Everything I'm saying assumes you live in the USA. If you don't let me know because things will change. Analog video consists of many different parts. As a general rule, the more things you combine into one cable, the worse you signal is.

RF Output - Plugs in like coaxial cables from TV antennas or cable. This is the absolute worst you can get for retro systems.

Composite - Very bad. It lumps everything together and is a hazy mess. Upside is most TVs still allow composite input because it was so common

S-Video - Vastly better than composite, separates the signal into two different wires within the plug. Downside is that modern TVs don't have this connection anymore. You can still use it with a Nintendo S-Video cable and an S-Video to HDMI adapter though.

RGB - Short for Red Green Blue, it separates everything into separate wires making it the best possible output. I believe this is the choice that will provide you the best visual quality for your money, but it involves more steps than the S-Video option above.

The Nintendo 64 is not directly capable of RGB output, but for early models of the system, it is very cheap and easy to add in. Check the serial number on the bottom of your Nintendo 64 and let me know what it is. Using the serial number we can take an educated guess as to whether or not it can be modded cheaply.

If it turns out your system CAN be easily modded, then your best bet is probably to send it to RetroFixes. At $50 for the basic mod, his service isn't the cheapest, but HD Retrovision has endorsed them as the best option for modding the N64 to use their cables, so that's peace of mind.

If your system CAN'T be cheaply modded, it can still get RGB, but you'll start to see diminishing returns on price and effort, and might just want to stick to the S-Video option above. For instance, RetroFixes mentions that this more complicated mod has an addition $50 charge. Another option for the most dedicated N64 Enthusiasts would be waiting and hoping to secure an UltraHDMI mod from RetroFixes or BadassConsoles.. Supply is very limited, sells out fast, and starts at $164, but the result is gorgeous and works on any HDTV.

A few other points: You're going to need the HD Retrovision SNES component cable in order to plug the RGB modded N64 directly into your TV. These cables should be going on sale at the end of the month, and they will likely sell out quickly. As such, I recommend getting on their email list and following them on social media so you don't miss the first batch. If you do miss it, you aren't out of luck. Modding for RGB will not affect the N64's ability to output via composite or S-Video, so you can still use the composite cable as you are now, or get the S-Video option while you wait.

Sorry that was long-winded, but I hope it gives you a better idea of your options! If this stuff does interest you, I highly recommend checking out the RGB Master Class series I linked to above.

EDIT: Almost forgot! Tell me your TV model number or check and make sure your TV has component inputs! If it doesn't then the Component cables won't plug in, and S-Video is probably your best bet.

Edit 1: Updated equipment.

Edit 2: Removed video link.

Edit 3: See comment from /u/N3rdC3ntral who politely corrected me.

So let me start out saying this: Please do not get discouraged by what I'm about to say. You should just start out using the built-in functionality of the PS4 since it's all free for you at this point. If you like it, then consider the rest of this comment.

Here's a list of stuff you'll need.

1. A good computer with a good CPU and decent GPU
   
2. Capture device. I use a Magewell USB HDMI capture device.
   
3. HDMI splitter
   
4. A good microphone. I would recommend a Blue Yeti.
   
5. A mixer
   
6. A 4-pole 3.5mm audio splitter
   
7. A good sound card
   
   Why do you need all of this?
   
   Your laptop is probably going to struggle to keep up. Encoding video on the fly is very CPU/GPU intensive. Your laptop, if new, probably doesn't have a physical network port. I promise you will not want to use a WiFi connection to stream your game play. So if your PS4 is using WiFi, fix that first. Plug it in. If your laptop doesn't have an Ethernet port, you probably don't want to use it. External capture cards need USB 3.0. If your laptop doesn't have USB 3.0, then it probably won't work with a USB capture card.
   
   The next biggest hurdle you will have with PS4 is audio. If you only play solo, it's not bad. I play Destiny 2, and I founded the clan that my friends use now. We are usually 4-8 deep in chat, and unfortunately everyone uses PS4 party chat. That's where things get messy. It's a f**king nightmare, and I mean it. I have lost sleep trying to get good audio while streaming PS4. Consider the only way you have to run a mic into a PS4: the controller. Now with a streaming PC you have to figure out how to get a mic into your PS4 (assuming you play games with friends) and your stream rig at the same time.
   
   What I had to do was purchase a 4-pole 3.5mm splitter that plugs into my PS4 controller. This splits headphones and mic into separate channels. I run the headphone port into a mixer. Next, the Blue Yeti has a USB and 3.5mm port. The USB runs into the stream PC. The 3.5mm runs into the mic port of the splitter. I capture game audio via HDMI through the USB capture device, and mirror that out the headphone port of the PC. This runs back into the mixer. I hook my headphones up to the mixer. So now I have both PS4 chat and game audio in the mixer, which I can run to the headphones combined.
   
   Here's what I hope you take away from this. Start out streaming straight from the PS4. It's super easy. You press the share button then broadcast gameplay. Link your PS4 to your Twitch account. Boom. Bam. Done. You're live on Twich. People can see you playing, and you can open Twitch on your mobile or laptop to see chat and interact with people. If you have fun doing this, then over time decide how far you want to take it.
   
   Want an overlay like the twitch pros? Want people to see your webcam? You're going to need a lot more. Update: PS4 has built in support for webcam if you use the PS4 camera.
   
   If you're still reading at this point, the last thing I want to say is that people have been really helpful for me so far. There are a lot of resources out there. I plan making a video this weekend documenting my audio setup. I'll try to come back and post a link for you so you can see what all I had to rig up. And let me say this as well: audio doesn't have to be such a huge issue. It is for me only because I want my PS4 party chat in the stream. I think my friends are pretty funny. Also, without it sounds like I'm talking to invisible people.

When Win10 came out and the direction was clearly "operating system as a service", I decided that it was time to move to Linux but gaming was always the deal breaker.

The solution I've been using now is to run Win10 on one machine and use Steam's In-Home Streaming to play games from any of the Linux machines. It works pretty well as long as the machines use wired networking. The latency is surprisingly good, although to be fair I'm not an FPS gamer or someone who obsesses about that kind of thing. If the network connection slow down, the first noticeable difference seems to be that you get video compression artifacts and not stuttering, which seems like the better of the two.

I haven't tried it out, but there's also something called Parsec that's seems similar to Steam's solution.

If someone decides to try this with In-Home Streaming, the Windows machine doesn't seem to like running completely headless so you might need to plug in a monitor or get a display emulator for < $10. Win10 loves to just update and restart whenever the hell it wants, so I run TightVNC on it and log in remote if Windows does anything that prevents Steam from auto-loading. Remmina on Linux is awesome and supports both VNC and RDP, although you might need to install a plugin, I forget.

Anyway, I don't regret a thing. Linux is honestly a joy to work with, and I'm never going back. I don't mean to get too soap-boxy here, but when a "clean" install of an operating system has animated ads in your start menu, it's time to call bullshit on that company and do whatever you can to move away from them.

If anyone decides to try out Linux, I think Linux Mint Cinnamon is a good starting point; it will be very familiar for people used to running Windows. If you have old hardware, Linux Mint XFCE or Lubuntu are both excellent. Anything Ubuntu-based is widely supported, stable, and relatively easy to dive into.

Here is a gift from me to you. I know you have the 3rd sensor but the rest of the information is good. This is my setup and what I recommend to friends and family. Check it out.

1st GET A THIRD SENSOR IF YOU WANT TRUE ROOMSCALE "they are on backorder at the moment"

2nd Get three of these for your sensors to make sure they can reach anywhere you want them too. USB 3.0 is better than 2.0 because the cameras run at a higher resolution and fps thereby increasing tracking and with your USB add-on cards this will be the perfect setup.: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3rd Get 2 of these to completely isolate all of you VR components from the sometimes janky unreliable USB ports on A LOT of motherboards that cannot supply enough power and/or bandwidth for all of the cameras and HMD to work properly I chose this card because it only has two ports and both of those ports work no matter if you plug in 2 sensors or 1 sensor and the HMD. The Inatek card DOES have issues for somewhere some ports work and others do not and are still only being able to run 2 sensors off the Inatek card and having to run the HMD and 3rd sensor off the motherboard. The Orico card just works and you don't have to think about experimenting with ports just plug everything into the two Orico cards in any configuration and go. Also use the default Windows drivers whether you go with the Inatek or Orico card only upgrade after trying the defaults drivers without success: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AVSN2YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4th This is optional. One of these for extending your HMD HDMI cable by 15ft for a total of 28ft: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D5EUD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5th This repeater is required to make the HDMI cable above work, but with this repeater, the extension is flawless: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

6th To extend the Rift HMD USB I use the USB 2.0 Active Extension Monoprice Repeater Cable that comes with the 3rd sensor it is 16ft long, works perfectly. Then I used a small piece of electrical tape every 6 inches from the HMD to the PC to make the extended HMD cable one piece leaving about 2 ft of cable loose at the end to be able to plug in wherever I want.

I did a lot of research bought the Inateck and Orico USB add-on cards, multiple active USB extensions, multiple different HDMI adapters and extensions of varying lengths, Display port to HDMI adapters, DVI to HMDI adapters, and did all the experimentation and testing required to make all this work. The list I listed above works every time on multiple systems in different environments, rooms, and households.
If you need clarification on anything and/or want more information, feel free to respond or message me. I will gladly help.

Yeah no shit. And 2ms is nothing dude. You gain widescreen with progressive output. And it does matter if you could use a working 144hz display because you have to take in account frame transmission.

For every 60hz display, you'll have 16.67ms frame transmission to display that frame. If you have a 144hz display, you will have only 7ms of frame transmission. So even if you add the lag of 2ms from input processing, it's still less than 10ms overall to display each full frame. By the way, CRTs do have input lag and it's not 0ms. The input lag from a CRT is like 670 nanoseconds or 0.00067ms (which is super negligible, but it's worth mentioning for sake of discussion).

How do you think other games are played dude? You think everyone uses a CRT? No, because 2ms is negligible - especially considering the GameCube's native send rate is 6ms. Obviously, for 60hz displays, CRT is the best for input lag, but 2ms is not going to matter. Human reaction time averages around 200ms. And there is not usually scenarios that come up that rely on a direct reaction. Even with a powershield, you're visually watching the projectile coming at you and can time when you're going to press the button.

The future will probably be on Dolphin with 144hz displays with adapters that have 1ms refresh rate/polling rates. It's possible there to have full RGB 4:4:4 widescreen progressive output with the ability to scale to HD resolutions with anti-aliasing. If the way the Raphnet adapter syncs it's polling rate to it's refresh/send rate holds true, then it's possible to have 1ms of adapter lag only instead of 6ms if you overclock your USB ports polling rate to 1000hz. That already beats a GameCube + CRT (22.67ms vs 9.95ms). Now if you take into account the graphics cards getting better and better, the GPU time will diminish as well. Also Dolphin efficiency will keep improving as well.

But that's all theoretical. Right now, the best way to play IMO (if you make considerations for progressive and widescreen output), is to get a Wii with GameCube inputs, a Sewell Wii to HDMI Converter, and a BenQ Gaming Monitor with Nintendont and the 20XX pack. If you only care about Input Lag, yeah "technically" a CRT + GameCube/Wii is better by 2ms because 144hz displays aren't working correctly with consoles. So like I said, for 60hz displays, CRTs win by a very negligible amount but you give up having progressive widescreen output. And yes I know they have made a few progressive 16:9 CRTs but they are extremely rare and it's not full RGB 4:4:4 (HDMI > VGA or Component).

Overall, my point is that Melee HD with a Gaming Monitor is completely competitively viable and you claimed above "display lag is a downside" - as if it is not a viable option. The problem isn't the 2ms of display lag - the problem was the adapters/converters. Before the Wii, to convert 480p progressive component analog, it took too much time. Like over a frame in a lot of cases. It just so happened that with the Wii, people were able to create an HDMI output. Nearly all communities stopped using CRTs a long time ago. (Although Speedrunners use CRTs for the same issue. Because it's more cost effective and consoles don't support 144hz output). But again, how do you think other gamers (who aren't limited from old-analog-only-consoles) are playing?

They're playing on Gaming Monitors.

----

http://www.int03.co.uk/crema/hardware/gamecube/gc-control.htm

http://meleeiton.me/2014/03/27/this-tv-lags-a-guide-on-input-and-display-lag/

http://www.reddit.com/r/smashbros/comments/26got5/quick_followup_to_miom_lag_article/

http://www.anandtech.com/show/2803/4

http://www.anandtech.com/show/2803/5

http://www.anandtech.com/show/2803/7

http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/gc_n64_usb/index_en.php#6

http://www.reddit.com/r/smashbros/comments/2nmv1v/wii_u_gamecube_controller_adapter_driver_for/

http://www.reddit.com/r/smashbros/comments/2nmv1v/wii_u_gamecube_controller_adapter_driver_for/cmgbh78

http://www.reddit.com/r/smashbros/comments/2nmv1v/wii_u_gamecube_controller_adapter_driver_for/cmghwn3

http://www.reddit.com/r/smashbros/comments/2nmv1v/wii_u_gamecube_controller_adapter_driver_for/cmfd182

http://smashboards.com/threads/technical-knowledge-compilation-gamecubes-controllers-tvs-recording.335040/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Display_lag

http://www.humanbenchmark.com/tests/reactiontime

http://www.amazon.com/Wii-Nintendo/dp/B0009VXBAQ/

http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Wii-HDMI-Converter-480p/dp/B0072JP56G/

http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-Gaming-Monitor-RL2455HM-24-Inch/dp/B007HSKSMI

Thanks a lot for the suggestion. Still trying to get my head around how these things even work. Currently using csync RGB scart. Seems like it's a bit of hassle, but definitely not too ridiculous. I was hoping there was some way to extract the image directly from the monitor without having a horrendous mess of cables, but there isn't.

I found an explanation from the guys who run the ESA speedrunning event, if anyone is interested:

"Here are a couple of more resources where you can read up on RGB capturing:
https://blz.la/rgb/
http://retrorgb.com/
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/
During ESA2014 we used a couple of different scalers. Initially we wanted to used several XRGB minis, but that plan fell through. So we used these in combination:
CM-393 (also known as Centaur Pro): A SCART to HDMI scaler. Will only work with NTSC consoles. In the case where we wanted to catpure PAL sources, we had to run the video signal through a DVD-recorder to conform the signal to proper PAL. PAL60 will also have to go through a DVD-recorder. For that purpose we had several KiSS DP-558 units available.
We also used Cypress CP-255i: A more high-end scaler, basically plug and play. But does not have an input for SCART. For those cases we had Sync Strikes. Or SCART (RGB) to YUV converters. http://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO
Seriously, those RGB to YUV have saved our asses more than once. It's a great utility. Works just fine for hooking up your retro consoles to a PVM or a TV with only component inputs. (Assuming it accepts 240p).
As for the future. We opted for a solution which would allow us to stick to one scaler. We went for the Extron DVS-304. This model has been discontinued but can be found in Ebay. This little beauty accepts anything analog. And you should be able to score one for less than 100$.
Since you can get scaled RGBHV output, it's very easy to replicate the output to any source. Which might not be very helpful for personal streaming, but it is godlike for marathons.
There is still a model in production Extron DVS-304 DVI.
tl;dr: There's no easy solution. But SCART (RGB) is nothing more than Red + Green + Blue + Sync. "

With a $1200 budget, there are two principal 4K options - a traditional small sensor camcorder or a large sensor mirrorless. Here is what I would recommend in each category:

Option One

if you plan to shoot corporate videos and commercials, and can stretch your budget by $95, a small sensor, 4K pro camcorder such as the [$1295 JVC HM170 with the free top handle and pro XLR mic inputs] (https://www.amazon.com/JVC-GY-HM170U-Professional-Camcorder-Handle/dp/B00W0SFQ86/ref=as_li_ss_tl?m=A17MC6HOH9AVE6&s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1484058610&sr=1-1&keywords=GY-HM170&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) would be a great replacement for your TM700 - better than a consumer camera (e.g., the AX53).

In addition to professional mic inputs, the HM170 has a 12x power zoom, built-in ND filters, a full sized HDMI out, 1080/120p slow motion and dual card slots with relay and backup recording (a feature the AX53 lacks).

Here is the image quality you can expect from this camcorder:

Outdoors

• [A Fishing Story with Ronnie Green and Jen 4k by sam root] (https://vimeo.com/178128763) (2 camera show with a couple of color grading examples) (4k)
  
  
• [JVC GY-HM170 (4K) by Ferenc Kereszturi] (https://youtu.be/dgKV1rwyoc4) (2160p)
  
  Indoors (Studio)
  
  
• [JVC GY-HM170 Studio Test by Jeff Zimmerman] (https://youtu.be/_rt3UivHUko) (2160p)
  
  Indoors (Non-studio)
  
  
• [JVC GY-HM170/JVC GY-HM200 - 2016 World of Wheels - Chicago by illdaddyrod] (https://youtu.be/fvm9UYQg8Bo) (1080p)
  
  
• [4K basketball by JVC GY-HM170/GY-HM200 test video in typical dark gym - Pinewood Girls Basketball 2016, by Rich Altmaier] (https://youtu.be/IDmpxSKo_Pw) (shot in a dimly lit basketball gym at -21dB - 2160p)
  
  Slow Motion
  
  
• [Paintball: 2016 January 31st practice @ Blitz Paintball Colorado Mile High Island] (https://youtu.be/BP95O4bn8os) (shot with JVC HM170 and DJI Osmo at 1080/120p)
  
  
• [Ian Howes - Broome Tioga MX (KTM 250 XC) | JVC HM170 Test Footage by Adamgmx24] (https://youtu.be/Zb3gPnjLjbM)
  
  In my view, this is the best 4K pro camcorder you can buy for less than $1500.
  
  Option Two
  
  If you want to shoot more "cinematic" videos with shallower depth of field, I recommend an internally stabilized, large sensor, 4K, interchangeable lens camera such as the [$997.99 Panasonic G85 with the 12-60mm kit lens and a free 64GB SD card] (https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Mirrorless-Interchangeable-Camera-Kit/dp/B01MXHN32J//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) plus a [$149.95 Saramonic SR-PAX2 XLR adapter/preamp] (https://www.amazon.com/Saramonic-SR-PAX2-Adapter-Mirrorless-Cameras/dp/B0163BFDHO//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) for your NTG-3.
  
  This camera can certainly handle corporate video - but can also produce more creative content that looks like this:
  
  
• [Maldives - blue lagoon of LUX* hotel (Lumix G80/85) by ONCE and for ALL] (https://youtu.be/XPJ6Y7HuOIU) (1080p)
  
  
• [PANASONIC G80/85 Showreel by Damon Heather] (https://youtu.be/-JK0fR6jD6A) (1080p)
  
  
• [Panasonic Lumix DCM-G80/G85 | "Carmel Market" (4K) by 4KFM] (https://youtu.be/RftUzQ_2QBk) (2160p - handheld with shake added in post for ambiance)
  
  
• [Panasonic LUMIX G85 “Coast to Coast” by VUEPOINT COLLECTIVE] (https://vimeo.com/185559893) (4K)
  
  
• [Video Testshots with the NEW Panasonic DMC-G80/G81/G85 - 5 axis Stabilizer by Klaus Müller] (https://vimeo.com/189214883) (1080p - handheld)
  
  
• [Exposition l’Envers du Corps by Pier-Yves Menkhoff] (https://vimeo.com/188874407) (1080p)
  
  
• [Colors / Lumix G85 by Alden Miranda] (https://vimeo.com/191193740) (1080p)
  
  
• [Boursin & Bacon Pizza by Alden Miranda] (https://vimeo.com/195572165) (1080p)
  
  It's a pretty good still camera too, as seen [here] (https://youtu.be/eDQJzln8-5M).
  
  In my view, this is the best compromise still/video interchangeable lens camera you can buy between $900 and $1200 (and [DP Review agrees] (https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/2016-roundup-interchangeable-lens-cameras-900-1200/12)).
  
  One downside for the G85 is that it has a micro HDMI output - so the connection from the camera to your monitor would be a little more fragile than from the JVC HM170's full-sized HDMI output.
  
  For streaming to a computer for recording to Quicktime, you would need something like a [$299 Magewell HDMI to USB Video Capture Dongle] (https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-XI100DUSB-HDMI-Capture-Video-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).
  
  Nice review of this unit from Lon Siedman [here] (https://youtu.be/Qx2uldWz_K8).
  
  Hope this is helpful and good luck with your decision!

I own the legendary Logitech Z-5500 5.1 system. I had used this audio extractor previously to run audio into the Logitech 5.1. It worked great except the rear surround channels were weak. I had to up their volume. I recently upgraded my TV to a Sony XBR-43X800D which actually outputs multi channel on the optical out so I no longer need the iArkPower HDMI audio Extractor. I am then able to simply put the Switch HDMI directly to the TV and the optical out from the Sony TV will feed it directly to the Logitech 5.1 system. I have to then set the TV to have full audio to come out of the optical connection. You may also have to change audio settings on the Switch itself in the system settings. Now, this works for me because the Logitech Z-5500 or the Z906 can decode Dolby Surround on the unit itself. This will probably not work on other logitech sound system speakers. It sounds like your TV actually outputs the actual sound instead of just two channels on the optical out. So if you got the Z-5500 or the Z906 system, the set will run sound from the Switch in Surround or Dolby Digital.

There is a way to have the sound decoded through optical if you don't have either of these speakers. It is an Astro headphone amp. I have this hooked on my PC and routed to the same Z-5500 speakers. It doesn't exactly decode the audio to the best quality, but you're getting actual processed surround. This is my bedroom setup, so it doesn't have to be uncompressed Linear PCM audio. bitstream compressed surround works very well and been used since the DVD days. Even audiophiles had expensive receivers that DID NOT have HDMI connectors like the Denon AVR4802R. But many people won't really be able to tell the difference between bitstream and L PCM audio unless you're an audiophile who has to have the highest quality audio.

It shouldn't matter how much the quality of the sound comes into the Logitech Speakers. You won't get the uncompressed sound to come out of TVs' optical out. As someone mentioned, most TVs can't output uncompressed audio through the optical out. But it will still come out bitstreamed with the DTS, dolby digital or surround audio. It just has to be decoded. This is sound that is still going to be multiple levels better than TV speakers or dual speaker setups. Nintendo has not always been good with providing DTS or Dolby Digital on their games. You will only hear this on Sony consoles and their games. Same for Xbox. It would be recommended to have something like an audio home theater receiver to properly decode and run the high quality audio through the latest HDMI versions for Sony and Xbox consoles.

If you want to run your Logitech with the best possible sound, do what I mentioned above but also replace the two front speakers with REAL bookshelf speakers (can be small like 3.5" woofers) that also include tweeters. Those PC speakers run great with powerful bass (assuming you got the Z5500 or the Z906) but have little range because they don't have tweeters for voice. I switched my two fronts with Energy small bookshelves. the speaker connections are the same as real speakers and are not those cheap rca hookups. If you don't own one of the two speaker systems I mentioned, you could get yourself an Astro mixamp to decode the surround or Dolby Digital.

Here are a couple of more resources where you can read up on RGB capturing:

https://blz.la/rgb/

http://retrorgb.com/

http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/

During ESA2014 we used a couple of different scalers. Initially we wanted to used several XRGB minis, but that plan fell through. So we used these in combination:

CM-393 (also known as Centaur Pro): A SCART to HDMI scaler. Will only work with NTSC consoles. In the case where we wanted to catpure PAL sources, we had to run the video signal through a DVD-recorder to conform the signal to proper PAL. PAL60 will also have to go through a DVD-recorder. For that purpose we had several KiSS DP-558 units available.

We also used Cypress CP-255i: A more high-end scaler, basically plug and play. But does not have an input for SCART. For those cases we had Sync Strikes. Or SCART (RGB) to YUV converters. http://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO

Seriously, those RGB to YUV have saved our asses more than once. It's a great utility. Works just fine for hooking up your retro consoles to a PVM or a TV with only component inputs. (Assuming it accepts 240p).

As for the future. We opted for a solution which would allow us to stick to one scaler. We went for the Extron DVS-304. This model has been discontinued but can be found in Ebay. This little beauty accepts anything analog. And you should be able to score one for less than 100$.

Since you can get scaled RGBHV output, it's very easy to replicate the output to any source. Which might not be very helpful for personal streaming, but it is godlike for marathons.

There is still a model in production Extron DVS-304 DVI.


tl;dr: There's no easy solution. But SCART (RGB) is nothing more than Red + Green + Blue + Sync.

To add to the other two suggestions, I'll add what I believe are two far better solutions: The GV-USB2 and USB3HDCAP

The GV-USB2 is a USB dongle-style capture card that only captures composite/RCA video and S-video, which is the best you'll get from the Gamecube without expensive cables. It's about $35 USD.

The Startech USB3HDCAP is more expensive, but it will capture HDMI for newer consoles and PCs, as well as composite, S-Video, Component (the best video signal out of a Wii and easy to get cables for), and even RGB. It's probably the best quality card there is at its price and it's offered me a far better user experience than Elgato's devices have for me. I also know PJ DiCesare uses it for his runs and he has excellent capture quality. It's currently on sale for $182.

Importantly, both will capture video at 60fps which I'm not convinced the standard def EZcap will do, and without the added noise and delay I find Elgato devices tend to add.

Hopefully this helps.

No problem! Happy to see someone with the same set. For GC, that link I posted, is being played through my Wii with OEM component cables and looks fantastic. No need for $250 cables (unless you value the gameboy player option for 480p). Everything else of mine is mostly RGB modded and then fed into this tube with a ShinbowSB2340 converter. Prior to the Shinybow I had that generic or CSY clone converter with adjustable pots and it looked really good as well. My 3DO is on S-Video and I'm pretty happy with the image and as for my NES, I refuse to play anything until I get the damn thing modded for RGB! (one of my only consoles I still haven't done yet). I managed to get a Japanese top loader version for the mod since they're more reliable and use the familiar nintendo a/v out connector (unlike the N.American top loader which doesn't use the same connector). SNES(1 CHIP) & Genesis are excellent native RGB consoles, all you would need are the cables and a component converter. Below is a list and info of some of the hardware I am either currently using or have used in the past and would recommend. Don't be overwhelmed, if you'd like to see the absolute best image you can provide this set you can just start with a simple RGB scart cable for a console that has RGB natively, and a basic SCART to Component converter. Just remember some converters don't handle the audio.

• CSY Clone Converter
  
• Shinybow SB2340 Converter
  
• Hama Scart Switcher
  
• tough to get one Gscartsw
  
• Extron Crosspoint Switcher

I would consider using a device that takes HDMI from the TV and splits out SPDIF audio. SPDIF is also referred to as Optical Audio sometimes.

Amazon has quite a few. I am fortunate enough to have a TV with the Optical Out built in so I don't use this type of device but have seen many posts referring people to them in cases such as yours.

Check them out here.

https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/

Maybe someone else can chime in with an exact model.

Best of luck !

I just setup Sonos 5.1 with Playbar, Sub & 2x Play:1's. Really really like it.
I rent and move often due to my job. Drilling holes isn't an option in most of the houses so this setup is perfect. Sounds great too of course!

Here's what I use. Not nearly the best, but it's manageable for the average Joe or group.

Current

• Streaming: OBS Studio (Win 0.14.x)
  
• Overlay: HTML/Javascript w/ StreamControl writing data to JSON and JS polling it.
  
• Capture Device: Startech USB3HDCAP + XRGB-mini Framemeister
  
• WebCams: 2x Logitech C920
  
• Audio Mixer: Mackie Mix 8
  
• Headsets: 2x Audio-Technica BPHS1
  
• Misc: Powered Composite Splitter, Behringer HA400 Headphone Amp
  
• Stream Tools: Nightbot, TwitchAlerts
  
  

  Deprecated
  

• Capture Device: Dazzle DVC 100
  
  BPHS1s are kind of the standard for accessible and reasonably priced xlr headsets.
  
  I was getting decent quality out of my old dazzle before I switched, people just need to learn how to setup their bitrate properly to reduce artifacts and how to deinterlace their capture via amarectv or using the built in obs plugins (I used yadifx4 for the longest time) which do a nice, respectable job. Would I recommend a dazzle? Eh, it produces decent video for the price (got mine on ebay for $20), but has some compatibility issues - if you do a quick search for audio issues with the dazzle you'll find a couple threads. There are workarounds, but it's finicky.
  
  Ideally though, streams should be capturing component video. It removes the need for software/external hardware deinterlacing. The issue here is that you either need a TV that supports component, or a component->composite converter, which I've seen people have performance issues with in the past.
  My current setup uses a Framemeister to upscale the composite signal and handle the deinterlacing, outputting HDMI to the USB3HDCAP. The advantage is that I get to feed straight composite signals to any plain old CRT, which is great because I've been recording out of a suitcase the last few months while I move around.
  
  I build my overlays in JavaScript and HTML; there's a layer of logic that polls a local JSON file written by StreamControl for changes and updates them on the page.
  
  Just taking off on a flight. More info later. (It's later)
  
  Sample with the Dazzle

The audio quality and volume also drops with splitters. Everything is easier (and the price is almost the same) with a powered splitter.

http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-1500320-Component-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B004Z1SO9O

I bought this last month and it's freaking fantastic. Splits, converts composite to S-Video and S-Video to composite. $15, just about the same price as the passive splitters you could buy.

I don't mean to start an argument or anything and I respect your posts and your opinions but I just went through this and this is the best option available for those on a budget.

My setup is like this:

PS2 (S-Video for PS1 games for example) to powered splitter, one to TV (composite, I don't have S-Video on my TV) and one to the upscaler, then the video feed goes through the El Gato and the computer. If I'm using component (PS2 games basically) then it bypasses the upscaler and splitter and goes straight to the El Gato.

I highly recommend both the splitter I mentioned earlier and the upscaler I bought to anyone on a budget trying to stream or record older consoles. It makes my games look fantastic at 1080p/720p. Just trying to help anyone who might be dealing with this too.

Upscaler: http://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Composite-S-Video-Converter-Upscaler/dp/B00V2ULHBS?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

The best you're going to do at $500 (but still see significantly improved picture quality) is probably a $200-ish consumer grade camera and the rest on a capture device. for HDMI to USB3, I've used this one many times and it works well:

https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-XI100DUSB-Video-Capture-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY

But that doesn't leave much room to play for a camera and stay around $500. For consumer cameras I like the picture quality of the Canon Vixia line, but Sony, Panasonic, etc. have similar consumer cameras at similar prices. Here's one that fits the budget:

https://www.amazon.com/Canon-VIXIA-R700-Camcorder-Black/dp/B019UDIL80/

This one even has a mic jack, which is a nice plus.

You might be able to save even more on the capture device by getting something like one of the Blackmagic decklink capture cards, if you have a desktop to put it in. Still, you're only going to save $15-$25 or so.

If you can put your budget into the $1,500-$2,000 then you could move up to a true prosumer camera or even a professional camera if you buy used. A used Panasonic HMC-150 should be going for about $1-$1.5k on ebay. You'd really see a jump up to pro looking video at that point.

A good option would be to use OBS, a free program used to stream and record video from webcams and a built in software screen recorder, just have a webcam and a usb microphone plugged in the teachers computer so we can record both the class powerpoint presentation (if needed) and the board itself.

This solution is super cheap, some good webcams and usb microphones go for 60$ each, there is an option to get an adaptor like this one to use a DSLR as a webcam in OBS, uping the video quality.

This setup is my favorite because you only need to carry around your laptop, that you would be caring anyways and a small bag with the mic and webcam, its a very portable setup, hope this helps!

You may want to give this a try:
http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETCSHP-Composite-Converter-Upscaler/dp/B003NS0UUQ

It will convert your S-Video out to HDMI, and do its own upscaling so you're not relying on the Xbox or TV. I haven't used it, but reviews look pretty good (and better than other models Amazon stocks).

It may not be perfect, but if Comcast is charging $9/month for HD and you're happy with SD, you'll get a 5 month return on investment for the $40 converter box.

So it's Cable -> (coax in) Comcast box (S-Video Out) -> (S-Video In) Converter (HDMI Out) -> (HDMI In) Xbox One (HDMI Out) -> (HDMI in) TV

Hope that helps.

I play on a Wii with a Sewell HDMI adapter and a BenQ RL2460HT monitor as I no longer have room for a CRT on my desk, so I get your struggle. To answer your questions:

> What would be a good delay time for my price? (ie is 1ms overkill)

That is response time, i.e. how many milliseconds it takes for a pixel to change color. It is not how much input delay you have; for instance, my BenQ monitor I mentioned has 9ms of delay.

> Is refresh rate going to matter?

If you're only running your GameCube on it, no. Go with 60hz and don't look back.

> Would it be cheapest to find a monitor with component, or try to find a component to HDMI converter?

You're going to find that almost no PC monitors have component. The closest you can get is finding something with a VGA input that can also do YPbPr, but that's such an oddly specific situation that it will be easier for you to use something like this S-video to HDMI adapter instead.

> I want sound through headphones, what would be the best way to do that?

At $150 you should be able to find a monitor that includes an audio out that you can plug your headphones into.

> Should I settle for something like 720p, as the monitor is only going to be used for Gamecube speedrunning?

Closest you can get to is 1366x768 resolution, but at your budget a 1080p monitor is easily afforded.

> I have three monitors currently, one that isn't being used but all of them only have VGA and DVI ports, no HDMI. Is there something I could use to convert component to VGA/DVI that's cheap and effective? If so, how would I play sounds?

At your price point you can get a monitor that has low input delay, a headphone jack, and HDMI.

While a small CRT is both cheap and would fit your needs, it also can take up a lot of space on your desk, so again I understand the need to go with a LCD instead. I think your biggest obstacle is going to be finding a way to connect your GameCube to the monitor, but I (among other people like LylatR) have had good results using the Tendak S-video to HDMI adapter that I linked to earlier.

First, try a different HDMI cable. Also be sure you're using HDMI port 1 or 2 on the TV, per your manual those are HDCP 2.2.

Next, I checked out your receiver's manual and this was interesting, maybe play with this or similar A/V HDMI or "passthru" settings:

"When the HDMI option in Setting the Audio options on page 25 is set to THRU, the sound will be heard through your TV, not from this receiver."

If your receiver doesn't end up liking the PC HDMI video signal and refuses to pass along to the TV (my old Sony receiver was like this), you could instead grab an internal or external PC sound card that allows you to run an optical cable from PC to receiver to get digital surround sound.

I can personally recommend this internal one:

https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Audigy-Performance-Headphone/dp/B00EO6X7PG

Here's others from Creative brand - check prices vs Amazon, New Egg, Google Shopping, etc...and check Amazon price history on any model using camelcamelcamel.com before you buy...be sure it has an Optical Audio Out:

https://us.creative.com/p/sound-cards

If these are too expensive you can go cheaper from Amazon's top 100 lists (results may vary):

https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Electronics-Computer-Internal-Sound-Cards/zgbs/electronics/284823

https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Electronics-External-Sound-Cards/zgbs/electronics/3015427011

Hope this helps, good luck!!! :D

EDIT:

1. If you grab a sound card w/optical but need to use the coaxial audio input on your receiver instead of optical, you'll have to convert the output...an example device to do this:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/C2G-40019-Optical-Coaxial-Converter/dp/B0002GV876
   
   
2. You could avoid a sound card altogether and get a device that strips the audio out of the HDMI cable going from PC to receiver. Something like this...but FYI there's about a billion models of these on Amazon so browse for good ratings and lots of reviews...some also split the audio to coaxial rather than optical as mentioned above...and you may need "HDCP 2.2" which supports 4K/HDR.
   
   Here's a top selling one:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Splitter-Output-Optical-Digital/dp/B01I9JG70A
   
   Here's a 4K/HDR/HDCP 2.2 one:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-NEWEST-Extractor-Support-18Gpbs/dp/B06XRT9VGL
   
   EDIT 2: Sorry for the long reply. Too much coffee this AM. :D

Absolutely, svideo is worlds better. Especially for capture.

RGB is the next level, it has potential to be as clear and noise free as a modern HD signal. You can get the cables on ebay or wherever for about $20. However nothing really uses that plug, so you have to use an upscaler or converter. The nice ones are $$$ (like 200 and up), but you can get cheap ones that work pretty well. I've used this exact setup with my modded N64 (modded to use RGB with snes cables). [retrogamingcables] (https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/super-nintendo-entertainment-system-famicom-snes-n64-rgb-av-scart-cable-ntsc-tv-lead-wire-cord?tracking=5543fb4c077bb) and [component box amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO). I found the converter box for $35 on ebay. So all in was just over $50, and the quality was like a 10x jump.

There's plenty of other options too, that's just the first setup i messed with and i was perfectly happy with it.

> The device needs to work on WiFi without Internet access.

I don't think you're going to get that—all devices capable of playing Plex (Chromecast, Roku, AppleTV, Amazon Firestick) all require internet access, as the device is directly communicating with your server. Read this from the Plex support docs:

>It's important to note that the Chromecast streams content directly from the Plex Media Server (or Cloud Sync).

>When you use a mobile device or browser to initiate a cast, the content does not go "through" that device and then to the Chromecast; you're free to disconnect or turn off the casting app at any time if you wish to do so and that won't affect the stream.

Best solution for you: get a cable that allows you to hook up your laptop to a TV.

If you have a Mac, one of these will do it, if you have a newer PC, it may have a HDMI port so all you'd need is a HDMI cable. If the laptop is older and only has a VGA output, you'd have to get something like this that is capable of converting the signal.

I also have a 908ti TI and lets talk about the money i've burned trying to get the cable extended at all:

• Works fine with no HDMI extensions, even if using a USB extension.
  
• Any length extension plugged into HDMI causes problems.
  
• A 3ft extension is "playable" but occasionally the screen will flash white TV static snow. It's annoying.. but not the end of the world.
  
• A longer extension is a black screen.. period. Sometimes you get an image for a bit but then it's black. Yay..
  
• Decided to switch to display port using an adapter, same shit.
  
  So I got a HDMI -> DVI:
  
  
• WORKS except.. occasional random pixels will turn white for a frame, creating this "magical sparkly effect."
  
• The shorter the extension, the less frequent and less numerous sparklies.
  
• Since this is only visible in dark scenes and even when it is.. is less distracting then the whole screen turning into static for a few frames I am leaving it like this for now.
  
  "So you are all in on the sparklies then?" No actually, I just ordered this:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Per the top comment, and when it shows up I'll test this out on both DVI and HDMI ports and see what happens. Hopefully I can finally truly enjoy roomscale/standing VR without the wire being too short and the screen being wonky due to extenders.
  
  Then.. Oculus can fix the tracking issues, and it'll be perfect. Not saying I am not enjoying the rift, i rate it at 97% perfect enjoyment, just trying to coax that last three percent out.

This is a bit of a tricky setup, but as long as you only want to use the microphone on your PC it is pretty achievable. Also if you want to play the sound off your PC and use a gaming console, you will require a mixer to play both sources. If you don't require this it makes your setup less complicated.

Either way you will need an HDMI audio extractor, this should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E Plug that into the output of HDMI switch then:

Setup 1 - With mixer. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=614305 plug the output of the HDMI audio extractor and your PC (using 3.5mm to RCA cable). Headphones plug into mixer. This will not sound as good as option 2.

Setup 2 - With DAC. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0722FRQQ7 . Plug the output of the HDMI extractor (using an optical cable) and the PC in using a USB cable. Select one or the other using the toggle switch and it will play that source out to the headphones.

I would recommend setup 2, as the external DAC will be of higher quality.

As far as microphones go, try a USB one (this is a decent cheaper one, you can go more or less expensive: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014PYGTUQ) to reduce the audio noise your friends are telling you about.

For practical and tournament use, everyone plays on a 60hz CRT. I'm sure some CRT's can break that number, but there's no point playing on those since those aren't the standard and never will be. It's honestly best for the community to start to adopt to A gaming monitor -> Wii -> wii2hdmi adapter -> hdmi cable. That way we can move to monitors like every other competitive game, while incurring essentially no additional input lag(~2ms). Something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-HDMI-Converter-Latency-480p/dp/B0072JP56G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493707468&sr=8-1&keywords=sewell+wii+hdmi) can be connected any modern monitor, and allow Melee to be played offline on a monitor even without Dolphin.

It's not a mind blowing upgrade in quality, but it was definitely worth it in my opinion. That's why I mentioned the upgrade.

I went from an rca to cable converter, to an rca to hdmi converter and didn't notice a difference in quality, but after using the wii to hdmi converter, I found it to be a noticeable difference.

I used to buy games from the nintendo store, and that's where I found the best jump in quality, Mario Kart and Yoshi's Story both had good improvements. I'll see how it does with some of the other games and send you some pictures if you'd like.

You might want to look into getting some sort of breakout from your HDMI output from your Kodi source for the audio portion, so that you're feeding 5.1 audio to your amp. Right now, your amp and speakers are only being fed 2.0 stereo audio in analog (basically the lowest common denominator of multi-channel audio).

Something like this would allow you to pipe 5.1 audio to your amp, provided it has an HDMI or optical S/PDIF input. Then again, if your TV has HDMI or (more likely) optical (or RCA digital) S/PDIF audio output, you could feed that into your amp for the cost of the cable alone. This all assumes that your amp is capable of accepting some sort of digital audio at all.

All that to say, however, if your amp is HDMI-enabled, you're probably better off configuring it the way it was intended, and use your amp as a signal selector, and run it as Kodi device > amplifier > TV over the best signal type your devices support (HDMI would be best, followed by YPbPr analog RCA connectors, S-Video, and then composite RCA video. For audio, the hierarchy would be HDMI, S/PDIF [Digital RCA or Optical], 6-channel RCA analog, and finally RCA 2-channel analog)]

Based on what you're saying here, I am guessing your amp is only capable of 2-channel RCA audio, in which case, get yourself a new amp, son! (As you, to your credit, say you plan to do.) If that's the case, save up for a nice HDMI-enabled amp (they basically all have HDMI nowadays). I'm partial to Denon, myself, but they can be on the pricey end of the spectrum.

Edit: And to actually answer your question: until you upgrade your granddaddy of an amplifier, you want to set Kodi to 2.0 audio. Also, consider sending the audio straight from the Kodi device straight to the amp. You'd introduce fewer points of failure/interference that way, and perhaps even lower latency; so it'll be easier to keep the audio and video in sync without fiddling with the settings in Kodi (if that's an issue for you, of course).

I don't know if I've ever seen a gpu with any kind of video input. I'm not saying that they don't exist, but I've never heard of it. Honestly, I think OP is confused on what he's looking for.

OP, why do you want to plug in a console into a GPU rather than a monitor? If the goal is to get the console on a monitor, you'll need some kind of capture card (that accepts what your console outputs) and software or just an upscaler hooked up to the monitor.

I recommend getting an upscaler unless you're trying to record yourself playing. The problem you might have is getting one that can separate video and sound since your monitor doesn't have hdmi.


Edit: Probably the easiest thing that would work for you is getting something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457981421&sr=1-1&keywords=composite+to+hdmi+upscaler

Since your monitor doesn't have hdmi, you'll need a hdmi to dvi cable like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457981421&sr=1-1&keywords=composite+to+hdmi+upscaler

For sound, you'll need to figure out if you can send the red and white cables to your speakers. Do your speakers have a stereo or rca jacks? If they don't, you'll probably have to convert the rca to stereo:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A88L9E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

and get a stereo coupler like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-107230-Stereo-Adaptor-Plated/dp/B004C87WQ6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457981876&sr=1-1&keywords=stereo+coupler

I have my Switch, 360, and ps3 hooked up to my monitor using an HDMI switch, and an Audio Extractor. This works super seamlessly, I just turn on whatever console I like and the Hdmi switches and I am able to get digital audio out automatically. I use a headset mainly, one of my friends have a logitech z213 speakers and they sound pretty nice! Hope that helps!

Thanks for the comparisons !
So would I be better off returning the Composite to HDMI adapter ?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I482KZI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

sorry I hope this isn't too confusing -- my main question is would it be better to do VGA to HDMI or -- Composite to HDMI -- or would it make no difference at all since the image is being transferred to digital ?

Also thank you very much ! the Dreamcast reddit seems to have a very nice community -- I'm happy to finally own one after so many years.

I just read through the original post and the comments following and am confused. If the TV in question has HDMI, component (NOT composite aka RCA aka yellow/red/white) and S-Video, then it most certainly does accept RGB natively, as component is literally plugs for Red Green and Blue, separately. According to a list of specs for the model mentioned (here), the unit supports both component and composite.

Without modding anything, the highest video quality for the NES will be composite, no matter what converters you hook them up to, as you're only changing the base video format (composite) into a compatible signal, not improving it in any way. Similarly, for the SNES and N64, S-Video is going to be the highest quality video without modding. The Dreamcast does have a VGA cable available, but you're going to be out some money for an adapter box to move the analog VGA signal to a digital HDMI one. In my opinion, that money would be better spent buying a SCART to composite adapter, as the SNES, Genesis & Dreamcast all have SCART cables available and SCART, while not quite as crisp as component, is a form of RGB and would look great on your TV; here is an example of such a converter. The PS2 has had component cables available for it for years, so you just need to pick up a set; they're usually cheapest when purchased as a generic set for multiple systems--mine is for PS2/Xbox/360.

Note that the N64, while compatible with the SCART cable used for the SNES, won't output SCART/RGB signal without some internal modification. Without modding, you're stuck at S-Video as your top end video quality on it.

Hope this helps!

I have an AMD R7 250 card in my R710. I have a VM running as a headless gaming PC for my Steam Link. I got this card: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H5DJDL2/ I was not aware of the PCI power limitation on the R710 when I bought the card so I guess I got lucky. It's bit of an older card, but it runs fine off of PCI power and supports DirectX 12.

One of the dual x8 riser cards in the R710 can be replaced with an x16 riser card. I didn't want to buy that riser card, so I soldered out the back of an x8 slot to get it to fit in. The GPU won't max out an x8 slot anyway.

AMD cards should all be OK for passthrough. They apparently don't artificially limit them like NVIDIA does.

If you're going to have a display plugged in to the card you shouldn't need anything else, but if you want to utilize the GPU in a remote session like I do you'll need to plug in a display emulator and disable the VM virtual display adapter. I bought one of these to emulate a 1080p display: https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6

If I understand what you're asking, it sounds like you want to take an analog (NTSC) cable signal and put it into the HDMI IN on your Xbox One. That's a bit challenging. Actually, it's fairly straightforward; you need an NTSC tuner with an analog-to-digital converter with HDMI output. I don't know of any single boxes that do that today. Something like this may have been produced about 10 years ago during the heyday of the digital to analog transition, but nowadays there's not much call for it. Might have some luck on eBay.

However, you can do that today using two devices. First is you need an NTSC tuner box. If you can get ahold of an old "cable-ready" VCR, it'll have the NTSC tuner you need. (Be careful, though, because sometime in the mid-2000s, the government mandated that any products with TV tuners had to have ATSC (digital OTA) tuners included. Since it didn't make sense to do that on what were then low end (and analog) devices, VCRs after that didn't have any tuners in them.) Then you can use a device like this one from Monoprice to convert the VCR composite video (or S-video) and analog audio output to an HDMI signal:

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011406&p_id=7111&seq=1&format=2

Another option, if you can't get an old NTSC tuner is there are still some available that were intended for attachment to computers monitors and used a VGA output. Here's one I found at Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Picture-Monitor-Projectors-TV-LCDHR/dp/B0011NM17K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408986469&sr=8-1&keywords=ntsc+tuner

In this case you'd need a slightly different device to convert the VGA signal to HDMI. Again, Amazon has one here:

http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Audio-1080p-Converter-Adapter/dp/B009L4X3ZA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1408985589&sr=1-3&keywords=vga+to+hdmi+converter

There may be better choices than any of these devices I've linked. I'm just using these as examples.

Are you trying to show the exact same video on multiple screens, or one video spanned across all the screens?

If it's the former, a distribution amplifier (DA) is what you need. If all of your screens have composite video input (usually on a yellow RCA jack,) then you need an analog DA. They might be hard to find new, but there are bound to be plenty on the used market. Converting from HDMI or DVI from a laptop, or SDI from a record deck shouldn't be too hard, there are many converters available on Amazon. (Literally the first one I found.)

If you want to span across multiple displays, this gets trickier. You'll likely need a computer with multiple video outputs, a media server, or a monitor wall processor. On a computer, you can use a VJ program like Resolume, Madmapper, or perhaps even Qlab to do this. You'll need as many graphics card outputs as you have screens, and an HDMI to composite converter per screen. Media servers like Hippotizer or D3 are quite pricey, but will accomplish the same goal with much tighter integration with other show control devices like DMX lighting consoles.

The last option is a monitor wall processor like those from RGB Link, Barco (E2,) Christie (Spyder,) and others. These take video inputs and split them into multiple outputs with arbitrary scale, rotation, and cropping. Again, you'll probably need an HDMI or DVI to composite converter per output.

The RPi doesn't have audio input or HDMI input. If you want to get audio out of the Yamaha via the HDMI connection then you'll need a HDMI audio extractor box. Plug that into a Bluetooth aptx transmitter. aptx is much better quality than regular Bluetooth audio but you need to make sure the transmitter and your speakers support it.

You need the HDMI audio extractor anyway if you want to get the audio from the HDMI cable. It is easier to just use a purpose built Bluetooth aptx transmitter than dealing with the RPi. You'll probably have much better latency as well.

I have one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495980818&sr=8-3&keywords=av+to+hdmi

And it works pretty well with a few caveats:

• It only outputs 16:9 widescreen, so unless you like your games stretched you need to set the aspect ratio to 4:3 on your tv, and some tvs don't have that option
  
  
• Depending on the tv and how that tv handles scaling, it can have some lag. I've only had one tv where it was noticable when playing Punch Out, and when I set the video mode to "GAME" that fixed it to the point where if there was any lag I didn't notice.
  
  
• Finally, you need to use the tv's usb port, or a nearby outlet to power it.
  
  Aside from those things, it's pretty great for the price. I mean NES with it doesn't looks as good as the AVS, but it's a lot better than composite and a pretty good compromise I think.

Can't speak from experience but seems the biggest issue most people have is just the power component. Found this USB on Amazon that says it's been tested with a few headsets, then this HDMI repeater to boost the HDMI side, just need a cable for it as well. Like I said, haven't tried any of this myself, but Amazon returns are easy enough to be worth a shot if I was in your situation since they do flat out say VR headset names in the descriptions of each.

Mac Mini (2018 model), named NOSTROMO

• 3.2 GHz Hexa-Core Core i7 CPU
  
• 32 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB PCIe boot volume
  
• 2 TB external rotating drive for Time Machine Backups, connected via Thunderbolt 3 / USB-C
  
• Dual 8 TB Western Digital Elements USB 3.0 drives for content, VOL1 and VOL2. VOL1 is replicated to VOL2, both are connected via Thunderbolt 3 / USB-C. These handy adapter cables allow you to connect a traditional USB 3.0 device into a Thunderbolt 3 port.
  
• Single 4 TB SeaGate Plus USB 3.0 drive which contains the majority of my media content, VOL5. It is a "floater" drive which I always carry in my backpack to have the majority of my content with me at all times.
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.6 Server
  
• Dual 27” Apple Thunderbolt Displays connected to the Mac Mini, daisy-chained off a single Thunderbolt 3 port using a Thunderbolt 3 to Thunderbolt 2 adapter.
  
• This Mac Mini is what I use to host all of my iTunes content to the three Apple TVs in my home
  
  
  

  Mac Mini (2010 model), named SPUNKMEYER
  

  
  

• 2.4 GHz Core 2 Duo CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 100 GB SSD boot volume
  
• 500 GB traditional drive for Time Machine Backups
  
• Running Mac OS 10.13.6 Server
  
  
  

  MacBook Pro Retina 15” (2015 model), named SULACO
  

  
  

• 2.2 GHz Quad-Core Core i7 CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB SSD
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.6 Client
  
• Time Machine Backups are being taken both on the 2018 Mac Mini as well as the 2010 Mac Mini
  
  
  

  Mac Mini (2012 model), named FERRO
  

  
  

• This Mac is located at Mom & Dad’s about 1,000 miles away. It is a complete offsite backup of all of my content, it is also used for Time Machine backups of my mother’s Mac Mini and my niece’s MacBook Pro. I have both Remote Desktop and SSH access via the magic of port forwarding. Whenever I add a new movie, I place it is my Shared Dropbox folder, then about 30 minutes later it is available on the backup Mac Mini. I then move it over to VOL3, and all of my content is always in sync.
  
• 2.5 GHz Dual-Core Core i5 CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 120 GB SSD boot volume
  
• 500 GB traditional drive for Time Machine Backups
  
• Single 8 TB Western Digital Elements USB 3.0 drive for storing and hosting content, VOL3. It is a complete duplicate of VOL1/VOL2.
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.6 Server
  
  
  

  Mac Mini (2012 model), named AURIGA
  

  
  

• This Mac is located at my sister's house about 1,000 miles away. It is a complete offsite backup of all of my movies and TV shows, it is also used for Time Machine backups of my sister's MacBook Pro and my other niece’s MacBook. I have both Remote Desktop and SSH access via the magic of port forwarding. Whenever I add a new movie, I place it is my Shared Dropbox folder, then about 30 minutes later it is available on the backup Mac Mini. I then move it over to VOL4, and all of my content is always in sync.
  
• 2.5 GHz Dual-Core Core i5 CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB SSD boot volume
  
• 500 GB traditional drive for Time Machine Backups
  
• Single 4 TB Seagate Backup Plus USB 3.0 drive (VOL4) for storing and hosting content, VOL4. As it is only a 4 TB volumes, it contains only the moves and television shows which are on VOL1, VOL2, and VOL3.
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.6 Server
  
  
  Both the 2012 Minis and the 2010 Mini are completely headless. Unfortunately, this means that accessing them via remote desktop gives you a measly 800x600 resolution. I use this handy little gadget on both of them to replicate a 1920x1080 display being connected. So, when I connect via Screen Sharing I get a nice big display.
  
  
  

  MacBook Pro (2018 model), named APLC02XV5W1JGH5
  

  
  

• 2.2 GHz Six-Core Intel Core i7 CPU
  
• 16 GB of RAM
  
• 500 GB SSD
  
• Running Mac OS 10.14.5 Client
  
• This is my work-provided laptop, mostly used for remote access. It is pretty locked down, I am not a local administrator so I cannot even rename it to fit my naming scheme
  
  
  

  iPad Pro 10.5", named APONE
  

  
  

• 2.38 GHz Apple A10X CPU
  
• 4 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB of storage
  
• Running iOS 13.0 Public Beta
  
  
  

  iPhone X, named RIPLEY
  

  
  

• 2.4 GHz Apple A11 Bionic CPU
  
• 3 GB of RAM
  
• 256 GB of storage
  
• Running iOS 12.4
  
  
  LG Blu-Ray reader/writer in connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0, used for ripping Blu-Rays and DVDs
  
  Sabrent USB 3.0 Dual-Bay Hard Drive Dock, also connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0
  
  The microphone is a Yeti Blue with a Nady Pop Filter, coupled with a Logitech HD C310, used for Google Hangouts and FaceTime calls with the fam, and the occasional podcast. It is mounted on a RODE PSA1 Swivel Mount Studio Microphone Boom Arm and a RADIUS II Microphone Shock Mount.
  
  The mousepad is an XTracPads Ripper XXL mousepad
  
  The chair is a Raynor Ergohuman ME7ERG desk chair
  
  I use Dropbox to expertly keep my content in sync. Due to the amount of content I keep in there, it is well worth the $100 per year for a Dropbox Pro subscription.
  
  
  Additionally throughout the house, I have...
  3 Eeros for my Mesh Wireless Network WiFi System
  2 Apple TVs (4K), named ASH and CALL
  1 Apple TV (4th Generation), named BISHOP
  1 Apple HomePod, named DIETRICH
  1 Nest Hello Video Doorbell, named HELLO
  1 Nest Learning Thermostat, named NEST (yeah, original af, I know)
  2 WyzeCam Pans, named WYZE-Kitchen and WYZE-LivingRoom
  4 WeMo Smart Plugs, named WEMO-Foyer, WEMO-SpareBedroom, WEMO-MasterBedroom, and WEMO-LivingRoom
  1 Amazon Echo Plus, named ECHO-LivingRoom
  2 Amazon Echoes (First-Generation), named ECHO-MasterBedroom and ECHO-Kitchen
  2 Amazon Echo Dots, named DOT-Office, and DOT-SpareBedroom
  4 Google Home Minis
  1 Brother HL-L2395DW Wireless Laser Printer, named LV426
  1 PlayStation 3 Slim 120 GB, named HICKS
  
  I have a total of 31 IP reservations according to my Eero app. This makes it a lot easier to manage my network, set up port forwarding, etc.

You're trying to tackle an issue that I was up against until this past weekend when I broke down and picked up a Sony CRT with component inputs, but here was where I ended up. I shared this in another thread as well ( https://redd.it/6cw74h ).

I use a couple of Extron Crosspoints to output to multiple devices, one of which only took S-Video / Composite. I was using this device to convert my component systems to S-Video. I had my RGB systems first go through this device to convert RGB to YPbPr (although I'd recommend the Shinybow SB-2840 as someone else mentioned), then to the monoprice device.

I hadn't had a lot of time to play / tinker with it when I posted in the other thread, and someone got me thinking to look further into the monoprice device. Much like what you mentioned about the specs you found, the monoprice device didn't convert 240p properly, and instead passed it along as 480i. Some of my systems were kinda OK with it, but others had some issues.

I would imagine the device RGB240P mentioned ( this ) would work since the guy that makes it deals with retro consoles. I've purchased RGB amps from him in the past and signed up on the waiting list for this device too.

My first piece of advice with all of this is to take your time to understand the basics. All of this isn't that hard to understand; it just takes a little time. If you really want to RGB mod your consoles to get the best picture then it is going to be expensive. Some consoles, such as the Genesis, early model SNES systems like the SNS-CPU-GPM-02, Sega Saturn and Playstation one output RGB natively so they don't have to be modded. Others like the NES and and N64 require RGB mods. This site is a really good starting point: http://retrorgb.com/index.html. You could also use s-video instead of RGB scart. S-video is better than composite and most consoles output s-video.
 
It seems that you are confused about scart and RGB. RGB is the signal being output by the console and scart is the cable used to carry that signal. If you want to connect your system outputting RGB via scart to a CRT with component input, then you need a scart to component transcoder like this one, https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO. A transcoder simply coverts the signal and does not change the resolution or refresh rate and there should be no loss in picture quality.
 
So it appears that you are trying to RGB mod your SNES? If you have an early model SNES then you don't need to mod it. You don't need an official Nintendo scart cable; you can use a generic one. If you have a later model SNES such as a 1-chip version or SNES mini then the RGB mod you linked to is what you need. You have to keep in mind though that even though the RGB mod kit on that site is $29, it would cost $65 for them to install it. Then you still have to buy a scart cable (maybe $10?) and a scart to component transcoder (at least $50) to connect to your CRT.
 
The cheapest option would be to just get a used Wii, softmod it and play that on a CRT. Wii can output component and you can get a good third party component cable for $10 or less. Retroarch Wii can run retro games in their native resolutions and it looks just like games running on the original systems. You would also need an SD card to run your games off of but those are cheap. This option might cost you $60-70 but that is much better than spending hundreds of dollars if you went with the other options.

You can do it yourself with one of these type devices. Just hook it up to your pc and then plug the output into the input on a vcr. Put in a fresh vhs. Play a dvd/bluray/media file on your pc and press record on the vcr. Now you have a vhs copy of something that was never supposed to exist on vhs. I can't really say if that model converter is any good or not as I haven't tried it, I just linked it as an example of the type of device you'd need to convert modern films to vhs. Just make sure that whatever one you get converts the audio as well or your tapes will be silent. I figured out how to do this so I could make a vhs copy of the movie Worm for a friend whose a vhs junkie because it's his favorite movie and it never got an actual release. For the case I bought a vhs copy of toy story for a buck and switched out the graphic insert for a custom made one.

Ran into the same issue a few months ago when I upgraded TV’s. Though modding your N64 would produce the best outcome, if you want an easy cheap solution that works just fine, I used this converter from amazon. It works just fine for casual playing and there is no noticeable input lag. All the best!


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RLc0DbDW1X6VH

I have the SB-2840, and I love the sucker. No noticeable lag or noise, and it actually appears to make intelligent sync decisions (preferring Sync-on-Luma, but accepting CSYNC and translating it to Sync-On-Luma seamlessly.) It has audio inputs, so you don't need to deal with an audio breakout cable. It doesn't need to be color adjusted like other popular transcoders.

One gotcha some people have reported is that it power supply included is sometimes not powerful enough. I swapped mine out for a common 12v 1A power brick immediately, so I never experienced this issue.

Using one on my Sony KV-20FS120 and it works great.

So SCART came up with a French anagram for something, but it sounds like you need a hub with some component, composite or svideo outputs? If that's the case here's one example here. Good luck.

You probably will need a mini hdmi to hdmi wire or connector, I don't think that has a full hdmi port.

Edit: if you had a few hdmi hookups you can add a chromecast or any firestick or what have you. You can run an HDMI from your PC to TV and that's what I do. I access my DVR online and if you're a little savvy you might find interest in [this ](http://www.KODI.com/ - Complete Setup Guide 2016 - ..).

There are $40-$50 upscalers which do a sort of adequate but somewhat laggy and unavoidably glitchy job of upscaling 240p based on the erroneous assumption that it's 480i. But they're literally dumping half of all video data from the get-go, by processing it as a 30Hz per scanline signal. And that starting point is your best case scenario. Still, upscalers like this one are adequate to the purposes of some players.

Even more so, most recent Samsung TV models do a pretty adequate job of erroneously processing 240p in a way that at least gets a 30Hz colour image on screen. But obviously, it doesn't make much sense to buy a $1000 screen in order to process a muddy Composite video signal in an only half-broken way, when you could spend $400 to upscale much better signals, from every console you own, and do it perfectly, on any screen at all.

For the office. You just need this:
Yea, I know its dedicated, but it seems like you have the extra wiring. If not, then HDBaseT is your option

Regarding your second monitor, all you need is this:

https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E

Regarding the double switching, you could do that. Personally, I would just spend the money to do it right. But, It's not my money :) I bought my 6x6 Gefen off of ebay for like $1100 bucks, but it was admittedly a pretty good deal.

Yes, you’ll need a CC to play videos on your TV. Google Home device is optional.

You can separately purchase a HDMI audio extractor to separate the digital HDMI audio signal from the CC HDMI output to the TV HDMI digital input. The extractor converts the digital audio portion to a 2 channel analog output (or 5:1 channel analog output) that you can use to plug into your stereo (L-R) receiver or amplifier audio inputs. This configuration allows you to watch videos cast for viewing on your TV while listening the show on your audio system. Here’s an audio extractor example that you can purchase that is listed on Amazon.

I routinely listen to digital radio, podcasts and music on my HDTV audio systems either via TV sound bar/woofer connected to my HDTV using just the CC.

I also listen to the same via my audio system without the HDTV being on through my audio CC that are connected to my audio system.

On occasions, I have video being cast (e.g., fireplace video, scenic photography, family photos, etc.) via CC while casting music via audio CC at the same time.

However the audio CCs are very useful to cast digital audio for listening on analog audio systems throughout the home.

Google Home is helpful in that to can start and control all of this using simple spoken commands and, following setup, without tablets and smartphones.

The main purpose for the CC Ultra is to stream 4K video. Yes, there are a few sources (e.g., NetFlix) that can provide 4K video streams. However you need to first focus on having enough bandwidth from your ISP to support the additional demand for 4K Video streaming; and pending that’s in place you need either hardware your CCs to your modem or have a local Wi-Fi router or router system in place to handle your normal device demands PLUS the heavy additional demands needed for 4K Video streaming. Handling the video resolution is the issue, not speed.

However if your planning to buy a 4K HDTV, have enough bandwidth down from your ISP, have enough WiFi (or hardware using optional adapter), have 4K video streaming source access (note that NetFlix requires the purchase of their more expensive premium plan to be able to use a limited list of 4K video) then you may wish to purchase and use a CC Ultra.

I can't advise on netflix (don't have it) but I did have a problem with the supplied shield controller - home and back buttons were both extremely unreliable, even after a full charge, missing 90-95% of presses. Fortunately, I got two controllers as part of an amazon UK deal, and the 2nd one worked perfectly. I sent the dodgy controller back to amazon and the replacement also works fine, both before and after controller firmware update. So it may well be you too just have a dodgy button'd controller alas.

Kodi works fine for DTS & AC3 passthrough to on my receiver, when I switched it on instead of downmixing! I have switched to SPMC though, a kodi fork with better shield integration (voice search in and out of SPMC, SPMC shows/films showing up in recommendations being the ones I use most)

AFAIK, the shield doesn't support any interlaced modes at all, including 1080i.

With regards getting your Z5500 surround working (used to use that myself until recently!) you can use a usb soundcard on the shield, like this one (http://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Beach-Advantage-Digital-Adapter/dp/B0036VO4X4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463782348&sr=8-1&keywords=advantage+micro+ii) or an hdmi -> spdif splitter such as this (http://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463782375&sr=8-4&keywords=hdmi+optical+splitter) or there are RCA versions - either should get you AC3 & DTS support

No, that's how the N64 has always looked :( You can dump money into building an RGB amp, finding a quality compatible CRT, and hooking it up with the best possible connection and it'll still (generally) look like shit (but with more vibrant colors!).

The upscaling on the PS3 for PS1 games isn't the best, but it's great for the price (free).

Honestly though, just stick with your current set as long as it's decent for modern games. If you want to save some space and time, instead of trying to track down a bulky ass CRT, pick up something like this. If money is not a problem, then get one of these.

Before everyone points you to ebay please read up on http://www.retrorgb.com, it has a slew of great info. I purchase all my cables through http://www.retrogamingcables.com, make sure you choose the model 2 genesis to rgb scart cable with c-sync on the cable. Its a free option when you go to purchase the cable. This is the converter I use, http://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO . Like many have said on the reviews I had to pop the lid off and adjust the color with the caps. Mine came with to much green, its as simple as find a small screw driver and turning until you get the desired picture.

any roku with rca jacks should work on an older tv.
if you only have hdmi roku, you can buy a converter
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B009A6PJKQ

i highly recommend you retire your old tv
because they are VERY energy inefficient.
my 10yo 720p uses as much electricity as
my refrigerator!
the weeks leading up to the super bowl
feb 5th are the best hdtv sales all year.

>This cable functions as a signal transmitter, but NOT a signal converter.

No

You need a converter too, like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Portta-WPETCHP-Composite-Converter-Scaler/dp/B008S7EYW2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417758155&sr=1-2&keywords=rca+to+hdmi+converter


Then, if you have a lot of RCA cable using consoles, and you don't want to mess with wires all the time, consider something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-Splitter-Selector-Adapter-MT-831AV/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1417758265&sr=8-4&keywords=RCA+switch+box


With these 2 items, you can connect 8 things to an HDMI ready TV with RCA cables. It's going to look like crap though :( Best to just find an old CRT monitor.

I have used one of these for a long time (link below). Picture is great and it's worked with everything I've thrown at it. Snes, genesis, Saturn, rgb modded n64. It produces a stunning picture on my 36 inch trinitron over component. Not sure how much justice it would do, but I can post some pictures of it in action if you're interested. It's about half the price of the other suggestion as well, it doesn't do audio though, you'll have to make sure you get the scart cables with audio breakouts. When you get it, you may have to open it up and adjust some of the pots on the board to get the color just right, just need a small screwdriver to turn the dials, takes all of 5 minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_7DRZAb4TRV7R8

1080p60:

Expensive but works great: Magewell (I've used/owned both of these)https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538331502&sr=8-3&keywords=magewell+usb+3.0+hdmi+video+capture+dongle

https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-USB-Capture-HDMI-Plus/dp/B01N16ZM2M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538331502&sr=8-4&keywords=magewell+usb+3.0+hdmi+video+capture+dongle

Cheaper but works great: iMillet (archtoasty uses this)https://www.amazon.com/Imillet-Capture-USB3-0-Drive-Free-Windows/dp/B07BSC3P7L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538331556&sr=8-1&keywords=imillet%2Busb%2B3.0&th=1

Note: with the first magewell and the imillet you'll also want an hdmi splitter:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I don't know of any decent 4k60 PCIe cards for linux. Magewell maybe but I've not been able to get my hands on one. With linux as far as PCIe goes I wouldn't trust anything except magewell. Plenty of USB devices around that work for 1080p though.

HDMI audio is preferred but it sounds like that isn't an option because your tuner doesn't have any HDMI inputs. If your tuner doesn't support HDMI inputs then try plugging it into your TV and passing the audio out of your TV to your receiver with S/PDIF. Preferably by an optical cable but a coax cable should suffice if optical isn't an option.

If your TV doesn't support that then I don't really know what to tell you. I would recommend an HDMI audio extractor but none of them seem to support Dolby Digital Plus.

If your TV doesn't support passthrough audio then your best bet is getting a Roku 4 (the only Roku with S/PDIF optical audio out).

Yeah, I'm sure that would work great, but it looks a bit overkill for my current setup. Anything that's a 5.1 receiver is probably gonna be pricey and I'll want nice speakers to go with them too.

Think I'm just gonna try one of the cheapo hdmi extractors u can nab off amazon for like $25 https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-JTDAT5CH/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=audio+extractor&qid=1564162667&s=gateway&sr=8-3

This might also work for you...Magewell XI100DUSB-HDMI (~$300 USD) . it's more expensive but has usb 3.0 and claims to be driver free. Has pretty good reviews also.

If you don't want to watch the video that's cool, here's a summary;

Over the last few months I've been testing various cables for use with my four sensor setup. What I quickly discovered was that not all cables are created equal in the eyes of the Oculus Rift!

The Rift and Sensors can be a bit stubborn when it comes to cables. Some work intermitantly, some report USB 3.0 as USB 2.0, some give audio issues when using with the Rift and some just point blank refused to work.

I think I've finally nailed down the best cables which I've personally tested and would recommend to use with your Rift.

Due to the summer sale I know we have an influx of new Rift users so hopefully this guide helps.

Here's the links where you can buy these cables for yourself;

Cable Matters USB 3.0 3M /10FT Extension Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_3?th=1

US - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503739950&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+matters+superspeed+usb+3.0

KabelDirekt 2m / 6FT HDMI Extension Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013ICN59Y/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_2

US - https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Extension-Cable-1080p-Ethernet/dp/B012ASNHIG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740842&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=kabeldirekt+2m+extension

DVI to HDMI Adapter:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_1

US - https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-2-Pack-Gold-Plated-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740883&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=DVI+to+HDMI+adapter&psc=1

CableCreation 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Fine For Sensors BUT Causes Audio Issues When Using With Rift):

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740956&sr=8-7&keywords=cable+creations+usb+3.0

US - https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740977&sr=8-1&keywords=cablecreation+usb+3.0

UGREEN 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Additional Power Micro USB Port isn't required when using the Rift. Do not use this with the Rift as may cause damage)

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Extension-Amplifier-PlayStation-loudspeakers/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741031&sr=8-2&keywords=ugreen+oculus+cable

US - https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Extension-Repeater-Amplifier-Superspeed/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741078&sr=8-5&keywords=ugreen%2Busb%2B3.0%2Bextension&th=1

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 4.6M / 15FT Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8TOTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

US - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Rated-Wall-Installation-Cable/dp/B014I8TOTC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741177&sr=8-2&keywords=AmazonBasics+High-Speed+HDMI+CL3+Cable

Mini HDMI Repeater Extender:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Repeater-Extender-130FT-Support-Switch/dp/B01MDS8DJH/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740907&sr=1-11&keywords=hdmi+repeater

US - https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Amplifier-Extender-Transmission/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740927&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+repeater

Hope this helps :)

What’s your Wii cable setup like? I was using the hyperkin Wii2HDMI cable and was having the same problem.

I play retro games so I had this problem at first but my solution was one of these. I run all of my old consoles to an AV switcher which outputs to a composite splitter. One set of cables is run to my crt tv, the other pair is ran to that AV2HDMI, which is then fed to the elgato. You could forego the splitter altogether, but I like playing on the CRT for authenticity purposes. It’s probably not the best quality just blowing it up like that with the HDMI “upscale”, but at least it was spitting out a signal the elgato liked.

Wrote this for another user recently, but it might be helpful for you too:

C64 has two different ports you can use to output video and audio. These are the RF port and the Video port (see here).

Easiest way is to use an RCA cable with an RCA to Coaxil converter plugged into the cable/antenna jack of your TV.

Alternatively, you could also use a C64 video to composite cable but you need to be careful. The three composite cables that come out of that usually don't correspond to the modern "video, left audio, right audio" that we are use to. They correspond to "chroma, luma, and audio".

That means if you want to get a clear picture, you would have to combine the chroma and luma into one signal using something like this. You can then split the mono audio into two channels with an RCA Splitter.

Option 3: Pick up a composite to S-Video Cable and use that, or if your TV doesn't have S-Video, you could also convert it to HDMI using an S-Video to HDMI converter box.

$40 This is what I use, it's working great. I love the remote. It support 2.1 and 5.1 I believe.

Tendak 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with Audio Out Optical SPDIF Coaxial & RCA L/R 4 Port HDMI Switcher Box Selector Audio Extractor Splitter with IR Remote Supports 4Kx2K, ARC, MHL, Full 3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HM1RP6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DtRgzb59G9006

$30 There's also this one, I think they both have the same audio extraction system:

Tendak 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital / Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZuRgzbQKSPMR6

Ohhhh man. You're in luck!
I've been down this road before with my PS3. Keep in mind, I did this with my Playstation 3 and assuming it would be the same for PS4....

The ONLY difference between the ps3 and ps4 are the OUT ports. The ps3 would allow you to hook up one of the old connectors to allow audio to get piped thru the analog singal (red/white). This is now gone w/ the PS4 and only can do audio via HDMI or Optical.

But, check this out. You'll have to pump the audio thru Optical OR I'm pretty sure the audio will work on this one too. B/c, I've only used this device for Video, but there is no reason audio would not work as well.

Happy gaming :)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O55U8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



EDIT:
Mine actually looks like this...the one I have is diff than the one I ordered (Amazon Order history). Odd. ..
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Audio-1080p-Converter-Adapter/dp/B009L4X3ZA/ref=pd_sim_e_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ANRVRHDQTJTMM9TTQAP

I had no luck with the 10' Cable Matters USB 3.0 or the Monoprice 10' HDMI for the Headset. However, I did have success with the Cable Matters 6' and 10' for the sensors when I grouped them right next to each other on the back of my PC as my computer has the USB 3.0s in pairs in the various locations that they exist on the PC. The 10' Cable Matters HDMI wasn't available. Anyway, when I got them I realized I didn't need quite that length anyway.

I have two 3' Cable Matters for the USB and HDMI coming tomorrow so I can test that. If that doesn't work, I'm going to try ordering a 2k4K repeater which apparently helped some. There are 4 I found on Amazon, 3 run at 30hz and 1 at 60hz. I don't know if that matters as a repeater with 60hz only had two reviews on Amazon. If none of that works, I'll email Oculus Support :-)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=20TJ7VWVA13A5&coliid=I23EYCUHDYL2HO&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J13YESA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=20TJ7VWVA13A5&coliid=I3NHB8WC7WI0TE&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CJ6QXFI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=20TJ7VWVA13A5&coliid=I2T4R7XZLC2AGW

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CJ6QXFI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=20TJ7VWVA13A5&coliid=I2T4R7XZLC2AGW

If your Trinitron supports it, give SCART -> Component a shot, it's a bit better than S-Video, but requires a special converter. :)

Good thing is though, if you plan to go BVM/PVM someday, the money invested to buy all the SCART cables and a switch to go SCART -> Component -> TV isn't wasted, the only "extra" you need to buy is a SCART -> Component converter.

https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504146961&sr=8-1&keywords=scart+component

But, don't invest the money unless you can afford to go "halfway" to PVM now, there is a quality difference jump from S-Video to Component but it isn't that much, many say you can't even tell. It's no where near the quality difference of going RF/Composite to S-Video.

https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-HDMI-Converter-Latency-480p/dp/B0072JP56G

We already have a lagless way to play melee on monitors. The problem is melee players are pretty particular about lag and decent monitors are expensive. It saves a ton of space but 1k+ is a lot of money if you want to have like 10 setups.

One of the reasons melee is so uniquely successful at a local level is because setups are cheap as fuck so you have people like me who can buy 4-5 full setups for the price of 1 monitor or console and can host a tourney anywhere or make sure there's always enough setups for friendlies.

That said a melee re release would still being melee to a new audience, hopefully it just isn't laggy.

I had to buy an RCA to HDMI converter off amazon. Because RCA is analog and HDMI is digital it can't just be a conversion cord it needs to be a small box actively converting it. It was a bit pricey for what it does but I t works great. Here is the link on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008S7EYW2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_u1iVtb15954W1

Note: Keep in mind this does not convert from HDMI to RCA, only RCA to HDMI.

Note 2: Also, this is an active converter meaning the converter itself needs to be plugged in (it comes with a wall adapter).

I'm running a similar setup to what you're looking at, just a bit shorter and less expensive. I couldn't see the need for the extra five feet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D5ETHE/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/

Some zip ties, heat shrink and cable sleeving keeps it nice and tidy. I keep it clipped to the side of my desk with a binder clip to keep tension off the back of my computer. It also makes it nice and easy to disconnect when I'm not using it.

Other people have reported having good luck with the Vive box.

https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Link-Box-pc/dp/B01LXR6DKV/

If you go that route you'll also need to find a power supply and you still need to find cables.

I didn't have any luck with the Insignia cable from BestBuy. It's seems pretty hit or miss.

Yeah, well I could get better speakers, but the previous owners left them so I decided to be lazy.

It just frustrates me that I can't get it working again, as it was working just the other day. If this is the best option though, I'll go that route. Thanks.

Something like this, yeah?

I just got a CRT tv to play old console games on. I'd like to connect my pc to it so that I can stream old anime on a CRT for added nostalgia. Would it be better to buy an HDMI to RCA converter like this? Or should I buy an old GPU with S-Video output like this?

Here's my parts list in case it matters.

i'm sorry, i was originally referring to which model GPU

but the adapter you bought is referred to as a PASSIVE adapter...i honestly hate that they allow these things to be sold since they don't work

HERE is a link to an ACTIVE DVI-D to VGA adapter, the active adapters require power to function, this particular one draws power from a separate included USB cable, that's how it converts digital signal to analog correctly

OK I tested my 3m cable again and it works!!! I did however change all my USB ports around on the weekend so that has changed. I think my Rift used to be on the motherboard USB ports and now I have it on a 4 port inatek card.

TLDR: Stick with 2m if you want the best chance of things working. If you are willing to experiment then go for 3m or more.

Some people swear by this HDMI extender repeater which I now own... but since I don't have the issue with 3m anymore I can't really test.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/

/u/NoZ4rt did some solid testing in Jan as well.

https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/81vnmc/must_have_rift_accessories/dv5tyo4/?context=3

/u/NoZ4rt the fact that it all works again after I shuffled USB ports on the weekend makes me think it might be USB power related as opposed to HDMI signal related. Also you noticed the screens appeared way brighter on your newer Rift might indicate a slightly higher power draw which pushed my motherboard USB ports beyond their limit on my 3m cables.

Edit: Just re-read your post. You switched all USB ports too but there was no fix. So my "theory" doesn't hold up.

Oh well 3m is working again for me and I have a spare repeater to test if things go wonky.

You can try it out with an inexpensive SCART to Component cable, [like this one] (http://www.sciteq.com.au/shop/scart-to-component-video-cable/), but I'm uncertain if it will work without something to handle YPbPr / YUV conversion in between the player and the reciever, in which case the least expensive option is to grab 2 cables (1 SCART and 1 Component) and something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO).

However, I'd strongly recommend skipping the SCART output entirely and using composite instead. Laserdisc is a natively composite format and using the composite output means a lot less processing inside the player; The composite to SCART pathway in the 925 is muddy and does not do the image any favors.

I don't know what level you're shopping at, but Onkyo's [HT-RC460] (http://www.onkyousa.com/Products/model.php?m=HT-RC460&class=Receiver&source=prodClass) has an MSRP of "just" $549, will accept a composite input, and will upscale it to either 1080i or 4k and output it via HDMI.

N64 would be a good fit for you. It uses Composite(Red Yellow White cables). So you would need a HDMI converter. I recently bought a cheap one from Amazon to last me until my Frameister came in. For $14, it was very fast response time up scaling to 1080 on my flat TV.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GG6PW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Protip: Get an N64 Everdrive V3 to play all N64 games(even fan translations/hacked versions). You can still collect for the system but having all games on the console ready to go is nice if you don't want to hassle with changing carts.

> Would an HDMI audio extractor be my only option here?

It would be your best option. I used this one for a while and it did the job just fine. A huge advantage over an aux cord from your controller is that the audio quality will be much better, especially if your speakers have optical input, and you use the optical output from the extractor.

If you have money for all the mods, cables, scart switches, and the framemeister itself, then I guess ya.

I have this upscaler, and it works perfect. Games from nes to gamecube look beautiful in 720 on my projector. There's no noticeable input lag(We played smash on gamecube and wii just fine, I played mega man and super mario world without issues).

I think the framemeister is overhyped on reddit - both here and on /r/gamecollecting . I also think a lot of the review videos make composite look worse than it actually looks. They also overplay input lag on everything else. Every time someone around here buys a cheap upscaler on amazon, they come back and say they don't notice any input lag. I bet most of the people who say upscales have input lag have never tried them.

I've ditched my CRT and if a framemeister fell in my lap for free today, I'd sell it because I don't feel like RGB modding my nes and n64 and buying a bunch of cables. As someone pointed out, games don't always look great ultra sharp. Part of the illusion of good graphics is a slight blur sometimes.

This RCA switcher will take care of your RCA needs. I would then run the output from the RCA switcher into this [RCA to HDMI converter] (https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510170964&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=rca+to+hdmi&psc=1).

Then maybe you'd want to consider picking up 2 of these 5x1 HDMI splitters. Just make sure you keep everything labeled so you know what's what. Hope that helps!

It was easy enough to do! I'm sure your manager would know. If not you can message me. We used a splitter that was hdmi in and hdmi/RCA out so we were able to get the hdmi attached to the projector for video and the RCA cables attached to our audio rack.

Edit: here is the splitter we used:
https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Splitter-Output-Optical-Digital/dp/B01I9JG70A/

Your setup could be far different from ours, but good luck!

Scart support isn't really a problem in the US. You can get converter boxes that will take scart and convert it to component and you can get scart cables pretty cheap. Something like this will convert let you use component cables from a scart cable:

http://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426703936&sr=8-1&keywords=scart+to+component

I don't personally have one of those as I have a framemeister, but a friend does and it works well except that it doesn't have audio out from the box but people have modded them to get audio out of it.

Thanks for the input on that. I've read about the HD Fury, but is VGA simply not going to work?

I've also read a couple posts about using a HDMI splitter to do the HDCP handshake, then use a converter, or to use a converter that does a handshake as well.

Would something like this not work? http://www.amazon.com/E-More%C2%AE-Component-Video-Converter-Supporting/dp/B00J22LGYG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416030673&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+to+component+converter&pebp=1416030680232

Worst case scenario, you use a splitter upstream to strip the HDCP requirement then go to this, no?

Ideally I'd buy a new projector, but the actual use case for this projector is (unfortunately) relatively rare. I'll be using it on Sundays to play Red Zone on the wall while a game is going on on the TV (only 60 inches). Other than that, the projector will be used on occasion when we are on vacation for outdoor movie nights.

So, this is going to be somewhat of a silly setup, but you’re going to need an RCA splitter, an RCA to HDMI converter, and an HDMI splitter. I’ve used several hdmi splitters in the past and they’ve all been fairly solid, but I can’t vouch for the RCA splitters. Speaking from experience, the trickiest part is getting proper 5.1 audio if you have a surround sound system as most TVs only pass stereo. But, if you’re using the TV’s speakers you’ll be just fine anyway. Not sure what your budget is, but here’s something to get you started:


AuviPal 4-Way RCA Switcher 4 in 1 Out Composite Video L/R Audio AV Selector Box for DVD VCR VHS/AV Receiver/Game Consoles

and...

RCA to HDMI, GANA 1080P Mini RCA Composite CVBS AV to HDMI Video Audio Converter Adapter Supporting PAL/NTSC with USB Charge Cable for PC Laptop Xbox PS4 PS3 TV STB VHS VCR Camera DVD

Then as many male to male RCA cables as you need.

Finally the hdmi splitter:

HDMI Switch 4k,GANA Intelligent 3-Port HDMI Switcher,Splitter, Supports 4K, Full HD1080p, 3D with IR Remote

To be fair you probably don't need to get a TV. If your monitor has an HDMI port, then you could play your PS4 with it. If the monitor doesn't have speakers, you could use an HDMI audio extractor or just use a USB headset. Pretty sure the PS4 supports Bluetooth audio too.

I'd recommend getting an HDMI repeater. This will turn your passive cord into a active. I have a generic cheap 10ft hdmi cord that works great with it. Plus with this you don't need to worry about getting an extension cable or coupler, any normal cable will work. One person stated his repeater worked with a 25ft HDMI cord with his Rift.

https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Amplifier-Extender-Transmission/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518111645&sr=8-3&keywords=HDMI+repeater&dpID=41Cjp8ODTWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Yep you can do exactly what your describing using a SCART to Component adapter

A lot of people use this one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XSSDPO

I've hear it's okay and does the job pretty good for the price

Just keep in mind this is not an upscaler so it will only work the way you describe and probably won't let you hook it up to an HDTV that doesn't accept 480i/240p

Edit: as said below this would be a much better option for not much more in price http://www.ani-av.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=220

This is a several piece system you'd have to get.

​

First is an HDMI audio extractor then an BT transmitter and if you want to be able to switch between the Roku and the TV tuner you'd then need an HDMI switch.

​

At that point with all that in place, you honestly would be better off getting a receiver. You can get a cheap receiver, like the Denon S530BT from Accessories4less.com for $150 then pair that with some cheap speakers and you're already better than all that equipment above.

This seems to have great reviews on amazon.
According to the reviews, quite a few use it with SONOS to increase format compatibility. The 4K version is 2x the price of the 1080p version. Some TVs have an HDMI out (For Samsungs, it’s a semi-hidden Mode) so you could save and just buy the 1080p version.

https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E

The Best Buy vr headset cable didn't work for my rift so I pulled the cables apart and used the 3.0 extension for my second sensor since I was out of the return period. Works perfect for that.

Here's what I got for my headset and the only things I'd recommend for headset extensions:

hdmi cable

hdmi repeater

usb 3 cable

inateck usb 3 card

The usb extender cable wouldn't work with anything besides the usb 3 card for me so I would say just buy it too. Though, I can only plug 2 things into the usb card.

These 4 things solved all my problems though. You can roll the dice on the best buy cord, but there's a decent chance you'll have to buy this stuff after and this way you get 15ft of extension instead of 9.

S-Video will look similar to component in 480i mode in terms of sharpness, but with slightly worse colors.

Personally, my favorite look for GameCube games is playing in 480p RGB on a PC CRT monitor. Probably the easiest way to do that these days is with a Carby and an HDMI-to-VGA converter (I use this one, but I haven't tested it with a Carby). You could also do it with a Wii if you got one of the Wii2HDMI converters and plugged that into an HDMI-to-VGA converter. The "jaggies" are very visible in this setup, which I don't mind at all, though they're softened a bit by the scanlines.

You have to remember that the GameCube is not an HD console. Your choice is pretty much between blurriness and jagginess.

I can't talk about some of your vive issues but did you try using a repeater with your hdmi cable on the rift. Something like this seems to work pretty well for long runs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS

Yeah, but it will be upscaled composite video. So like 480i upscaled to 1080p/whatever. Tonnes of stuff on amazon do it, with latency being a factor.

Lots of goggles have composite out over a 3.5mm jack, plug that into this:



RCA to HDMI, GANA 1080P Mini RCA Composite CVBS AV to HDMI Video Audio Converter Adapter Supporting PAL/NTSC with USB Charge Cable for PC Laptop Xbox PS4 PS3 TV STB VHS VCR Camera DVD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mpLjDbS409HW7

I am an in-house corporate video producer that recently got into live-streaming for the job as they've ordered all the equipment/software/ and had the networking support and hardware to support it. To do "proper" live streaming on your own is just ridiculous. You need multiple camera operators, especially for sports. You need experience with a switching board like a Tricaster, you need network support, and you need a back end interface for managing the live stream "events" like Vbrick.

For a company that does thing and brings all their own equipment and people, they can charge anywhere from 25k to 50k for a half day shoot.

OR, you could just have a single camera attached to a HDMI capture card, run that into OBS and then stream that to YouTube. That is relatively easy for a single person to do.

I have a 2012 i5/16/SSD that does all my server-ey things in my lab straight on OSX, and I've been really happy with it. I'd be cautious with the C2D's as they're getting a little long in the tooth to do any really solid media transcoding. I'd also budget for an HDMI display emulator if you're going to run it headless- if there isn't a display plugged in, the machine powers down the video card, leading to some performance hits. Happy to answer any other questions you have.

yes, it is possible, but stupid.

You can use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW

then run that HDMI out to something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Capture-Broadcast-Streaming-Grabber-Converter/dp/B0779ZJZX3

and then something like OBS to configure that input as a 'camera' source.

but don't do it that way. just use an emulator. https://www.emulator-zone.com/nes/nestopia

emulators are legal, ROMs probably aren't

If you need the controller, you can purchase something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Controller-suily-Joystick-RetroPie-Emulators/dp/B07M7SYX11

Avoid that card at all costs. I've gone through a few other branded devices that were pretty much the same build and possibly chipset. No lie, most "budget" USB 2.0 Capture devices like that either don't work or are going to give you pretty bad quality and possibly input lag and other issues. I have one of these and it works decent enough.

If you want something great for the money, you're going to be paying a pretty penny, though. Like this is what I want to get for my console needs.

The LGP has a random blackout issue. You'll be playing and then all of a sudden, BAM, blackout for 1 or 2 seconds. It's very sensitive to voltage when being used with the Component input, so much so that even plugging in controllers can cause it to black out sometimes.

We have been working on a solution, but as of right now this is a good solution, but has no recording capabilities, although you could get the LGP and this and just record over HDMI where there's no chance of blackout (that's what I do): http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Wii-HDMI-Converter-480p/dp/B0072JP56G/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398017066&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=sewell+wii2hdmi+480p.

The Elgato Game Capture HD has been rumored to be just as fast as the LGP when it comes to conversion as well as will let you record, but Fizzi hasn't pulled any real numbers on it yet as far as I know.

With either of these options, you need the right monitor as well if you are going for a HD lagless setup. Both the BenQ RL2455HM and the Evo monitor are tried and true for our purposes, but many other gaming monitors could work depending on their quality.

It's an update, this is the converter I went with and it's working great! Best 30 bucks I spent for my Astro A50s to work with my PS4 slim!


Tendak 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital / Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9F6Mzb235DK6R

Well I'm not well versed in televisions so if no one else can help you I'd look into hardware solutions like E-More® HDMI to Component Video (YPbPr) Converter Supporting HDCP 1.2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J22LGYG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_m-fRub171NMM8

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SFJ9MR0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1451955468&sr=8-2&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=viewsonic+3d+projector
this is very similar to the one I game on.

Id say your best bet is to have the xbox one plugged into the hdmi port on the tv.

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI

Something like this plugged into the back of the xbox one going from your n64.

Also, you need to look into a projector screen. (Mine is 120+") and speaker system

It is possible for under $1000. My projector looks very clear even at over 100"

I use this device to capture composite inputs, such as Gamecube, with my Elgato. It works just fine and the quality is pretty decent, though I've never tested it with Melee, but it will work with anything you plug into it that uses composite. If you want 60 fps though you are gonna want the Elgato HD60, not the normal Elgato HD. That way you can hook the Gamecube composite cables to the converter and feed the HDMI into the Elgato, which will go to your computer and the TV. If you want Melee to go to a CRT though then you'll need a splitter for the composite cables that will split it before going into the converter.

Side note, Elgato has a new capture card model called the HD60 S, I haven't looked into it but appearantly it's meant for streaming, so maybe it'd be good for what you want to do!

Then ignore GCVideo unless you feel like spending the cash for a new 'Cube.

Any old RCA>HDMI box is going to get you to about the same place and I'm going to assume that your TV doesn't support S-Video.

Anything like this should get you started if you just want to play:
https://www.amazon.com/enKo-Products-Composite-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI

And if you want a better experience, consider something like these in tandem:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078JCNDC8/ref=sspa_mw_detail_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Gam3Gear-Nintendo-Gamecube-Video-Cable-Super/dp/B00LE3EAIK

I apologize for digging up an old post but I've been going through a number of tutorials to get one of these setup for me and thought you might be able to give me some feedback (maybe you ran into these issues already or know what else to try)!


Currently, I have hyperion uploaded, already uploaded my configuration (as well as the grabber info) to the json config file but I can't see to get it to grab a screenshot. Below is my putty command window (so you can see what I'm typing in, maybe I'm setting something up incorrectly):

​

https://postimg.cc/PC6ZHWwt

​

It appears to recognize the grabber I'm using (which I tested above), the PS4 video is coming through correctly on the splitter (as I can see it going back into the TV so I assume it's also making it to the AVI2HDMI I'm using (which I have selected to 1080p to ensure it's not trying to downconvert my signal):

​

https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=avi+to+hdmi&qid=1555655281&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

Unfortunately, I'm not getting any screengrabs so I can't really get much further in the process without it. I thought I'd post here and see if you had any suggestions. Thanks!

I'm not an expert so I defer to Google in that regards. The Akira is supposed to be good. I use a aftermarket VGA cable to upscaler. It has some issues but it definitely looks better than AV cables. Check the links below for what I currently use.

Retro-Bit Dreamcast - Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BF74KOS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kAiJAbKSZDJV5

HDE VGA w/Audio to HDMI Video Scaler Converter Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L4X3ZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IAiJAbDHF66SJ

I love the setup. For the TV, I have an HDMI to composite adapter. It works great for getting newer media on the old CRT tvs. Check out the link here.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBQZC4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IufExbX488AM5

I was so mad I couldn't think properly, thank you for saving some hairs on my head! I bought the https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZPQrybA57WAHE because it's Dolby Digital supported so hopefully the shit works!

May the ball licking gods guide you in your future endeavors. Bless you

I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NS0UUQ with my SNES and N64 and it works great.

I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064JIC9M with my Wii and it works great too.

I use this and have a 1 ms gaming monitor, and even my stingiest and tech skill orientated friends are happy to play on it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072JP56G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They make little HDMI plugs that emulate monitors. They are pretty cheap and will allow you to stream at 1080p. I got this one (below) and it works great.

http://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6

Oh man, do I have an update for you.

Pretty much right before you responded yesterday, had I doubled down and bought the RCA version of the HDMI audio extractor I had (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BIQER0E/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&th=1) and figured I'd just return both it if it didn't work.

For reasons unknown to me, it worked. I plugged in an RCA to 3.5mm adapter I had and boom. I have no idea what happened, but I just figured I'd let you know and anyone who will happen to come across this thread.
Once again, thanks for all your help!

You'll need to convert the analog video into digital video to input into the recording software. Make sure whatever you get is actively converting the video...if the device doesn't require a power source it's probably not going to work (unless there's some new magic thing I don't know about). There may be a device that does all this, but I'm not aware of it's existence.

To covert the component video to digital video, you've got a few options which you'd probably choose based on how you want to capture video. If you've already got a capture setup for modern consoles (e.g HDMI input into a capture card) you can do something like this and just plug your classic console into the setup

RCA to HDMI:
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521128839&sr=1-3&keywords=component+to+hdmi

If you just want straight USB input into your PC this looks like it should work:
https://www.amazon.com/Yosoo-Converter-Adapter-Video-Capture/dp/B0199DRWQ8/ref=sr_1_2?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1521131246&sr=1-2&keywords=RCA+capture+card

edited down - thought about this more and realized I really overcomplicated it originally

The only PVMs I could find for sale in my state were very limited and at the most 9 inches, which is far too small for my liking. I decided to look around for trinitrons which obviously were far more common. Although there is not much info about Australian sets out there, I found a couple of listings that actually bothered to show what ports it had and I found plenty of ones with component. My question is for hooking it up to the TV, will I need a simple cable like this one (25 AUD) or an actual box like this one (I think the price is in USD, making it 65 AUD) Obviously in my currency the price difference is pretty big, so I wanna make sure I don't overspend when I don't need to.

You've got a couple of options with older consoles with the Elgato card. You can either get an HDMI converter box like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Composite-S-video-Audio-HDMI-Converter/dp/B003NS0UUQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1381089076&sr=8-3&keywords=rca+to+hdmi

Or Elgato has an adapter cable you can get:
http://support.elgato.com/index.php?_m=knowledgebase&_a=viewarticle&kbarticleid=4633

I have both, and they both do a pretty good job.

I know I am late to the party, but does it do conversion better than a general analog to HDMI box like this... That is 1/5th the price?

Tendak 3RCA AV CVBS Composite & S-Video R/L Audio to HDMI Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V2ULHBS/

That one is actually HDMI to VGA but that is the sort of thing I was thinking. This is the one I was going to try. It looks like it should do what I need without loss of signal.

I still want to be able to play directly on the monitor for that computer so I was going to try this splitter box with one going to the converter and the other going to my monitor.

Both are powered so there should not be much loss in signal.

If you have 2 GPUs and your CPU/motherboard supports IOMMU, this is possible using virtualisation.

Basically you install a hypervisor on your main operating system, create 2 virtual machines, and assign a GPU to each. One GPU is connected to a monitor, and the other to a stub display device such as this. The laptop connects to the virtual machine using GameStream/Steam In-home Streaming etc.

The difficult part is that hardware/hypervisor compatibility, troubleshooting, and performance tuning requires quite a bit of specialised knowledge. Most people use a Linux distro with KVM as their hypervisor OS, so experience with Linux is very usefull. See /r/vfio and /r/unraid for some examples of the kinds of things you will have to learn to implement this.

There are other more exotic possibilities such as using a card from the Nvidia GRID, and using it to power multiple virtual machines (even over the internet). There is also some early work at implementing virtual GL, in which the CPU can be used to emulate a 3D-capable display adaptor. It remains to be seen how effective this approach would be for gaming, however (it's also Linux-only for now).

You should be buying on Amazon or locally so you can return ones that don't work. If you have $200 of cables kicking around that don't work then you should really look at returning them or learn to purchase smarter through retailers you can return things too.

With that being said I had issues with extending my HDMI on a 1080 card and this extender worked like a charm. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GHL72XS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519584953&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=COWEEN+HDMI+Repeater+4K+UHD+HDMI+Female+to+Female+HDMI+Amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41Cjp8ODTWL&ref=plSrch

Edit: make sure you check if it supports PAL or NTSC and get a converter than can do the right one or both.

You'll have to buy a converter. Something that takes composite in and outputs HDMI.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW

If I remember correctly Commodore put out something like S-Video component as well. I'm not sure if there's a direct way to convert that. If there were, it would be better becuase the HW wouldn't need a notch filter.

You could also use a capture device on a PC and display it in a window on your PC.

One of these should work, although the ratings are kind of low.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=composite+video+capture+for+pc&ref=nb_sb_noss

Should be this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00KBQZC4M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1451943024&sr=8-6&keywords=hdmi+to+component+converter

Hope this help and good luck

I think you're out of luck on the dock itself, but something like this may be able to help you

What other inputs does the TV have? Composite is pretty shitty, even when talking about analog inputs.

>I'm considering buying an HDMI to composite adapter but I need one to transfer the sound to the TV speakers as well.

Anything like this should transfer audio as well:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBQZC4M/

>I would also want to use the TV as an everyday monitor but of course 640x480 wouldn't be very livable.

I'm not sure what you are asking here. Are you asking for CRT TV suggestions? Or is this just a general comment?

HDMI splitters and HDMI capture devices?

​

I have had good luck with https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3RQPBD8L5NYNI&keywords=usb+hdmi+capture&qid=1556715213&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+hdmi+cap%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-5

​

The same company also makes this for caputreing 4 hdmi at the same time

https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-Capture-Quad-HDMI-Video/dp/B0178DV064/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Magewell&qid=1556715250&s=gateway&sr=8-6

​

There are some network hdmi capture devices but I have not used any so I cant say which are good examples.

Ah ok. I saw a couple places saying it could range up to 30ms, which is what I was mainly concerned about. I was looking at this Sewell Wii to HDMI converter which I think would work nicely, I've read good things about it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072JP56G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_7PQMwbXBW4PTZ

I've been doing so much research on this the past couple days and I still feel very uneasy about it all hahaha

You'll get the best picture with a s-video cable (unless you're willing to do the RGB mod). Cheap ones are about $5-10. If your TV will accept svid directly (unlikely though given that it's new) then do that, else, you should get an upscaler to convert the signal to HD and allow you to plug-in HDMI.

I was in the exact same situation as you! I was just about to buy an HDMI 1 in -> 2 out splitter, and an HDMI to VGA converter with builtin cinch output, when I found this little baby

http://www.amazon.de/deleyCON-Audio-Extractor-Splitter-Converter/dp/B00NZYHKHO/

right here. It has one HDMI input and output, as well as analog and digital audio output. It passes the HDMI signal through, while also extracting (but not removing) the audio signal. That was the perfect solution for me, as I already had a DAC at home, so this solution does not compromise audio quality. This device

http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/

seems to be the US equivalent of this device. Hope this helps!

This might be your simplest solution: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/SCART-breakout-adapter-for-composite-and-s-video

That will give you an RGB video signal for the CRT, and S-VIDEO for the Elgato's A/V in.

If you want better quality than S-Video for the capture, then you need to first use a matrix switch to split the RGB signal. I would recommend either the gscartsw or an Extron Crosspoint for that.

Once split, you would then need to convert that second RGB output signal into a video format that the Elgato can understand.

If you want to use the Elgato's YPbPr (YUV) component input, you can try and run the signal through one of these: https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO

If you want to use the Elgato's HDMI input, then run the RGB signal through an X-RGB mini "Framemeister", or alternatively the Open Source Scan Converter (OSSC).

Sorry for pic quality! There's a light in the way XD. I used a 10ft cable extension, command strip hooks, zip ties, and a dog leash to make my Oculus cord retractable!

Purchased items(US):

• Dog leash (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LCECNES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• command strips (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084M696K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• 10ft passive HDMI (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• HDMI repeater (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• 10ft usb3.0 cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  Total: ~40$
  
  

You could try using nvidia's Dynamic Super resolution to render it in 1080, but it may still look weird on your screen (since it would first be down-scaled to 1650x1050 and then resized back to 1080 for your TV.)

You could also use a display emulator and set that as your primary monitor for when you want to stream.

Other than that, your only real option is to get a 1920x1080 monitor. ASUS and BenQ are good bets, and you can find one for $80-$130 on Amazon or Newegg.

Such devices exist, but aren’t that cheap and tend to introduce too much latency for gaming. If you want to watch the steam live, you may need even better hardware to keep up with playing the video and transcoding the input in real time.

For example: StarTech.com HDMI Video Capture Device - 1080p - 60fps Game Capture Card - USB Video Recorder with HDMI DVI VGA (USB3HDCAP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC5HUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gO5hDbQZ13G3R (this was the first hit I found on google. I have no idea if it’s actually a good product or not.)

Running it through dolphin is a good idea. If you've got $20 these http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Wii-HDMI-Converter-480p/dp/B0072JP56G come highly recommended from Melee players for a more natural crt feeling on HDMI monitors

How can I word it better? Don’t want people to get the wrong impression.

My digitization setup is to play the tapes on a high end consumer VCR, output the video signal via S-video through a RadioShack S-video amplifier, feeding the S-video into a HDMI hardware upscaler (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V2ULHBS/), outputting to a quality HDMI capture box (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LX22X2T). Technology Connections shared this analog upscaling method to digitize at least 95 percent of the visual detail (source: https://youtube.com/watch?v=pQioCb4KUHM)

Because I want the workflow as simple as possible, i’ll digitize the tape in one go from beginning to end. I’ll catalog each digitized tape a number and each donation a donation number. If I find degraded spots and deem them rare or historically notable I’ll go back to the VCR and play those sections of tape frame by frame for future reconstruction.

What am I going to do with the tapes after I’ve digitally transferred them? If the original owner contacts me within ONE YEAR of digitizing them, I’ll give them back and keep the files. After ONE YEAR, I will check to see if the ribbons have silver / other expensive metals in them for future recovery. I know by recovering precious metals from tapes I will be destroying the details left behind by the transfer process, which is the last 5% of the detail and any metadata outside of the frame field, along with the magnetic charges. Since I don’t want to hoard already digitized media, they’re FREE to anyone who can pick them up by the carful in San Jose, CA or will pay the shipping, I’ll even ship them international if you prepay all shipping charges. I am not responsible for any customs, freight, and shipping charges.

What you're asking for is pretty much the definition of an AV receiver.

You could maaaaaybe split it out into a bunch of little boxes, but you're going to wind up with multiple remote controls and the boxes + nest of cables and power supplies is almost certainly going to take up as much space as an AV receiver.

You could have an HDMI switcher with remote and a HDMI audio extractor and uh, a surround sound decoder and then, I guess, a stack of three SMSLs to give you six channels of amplification but you'd still need some kind of volume control... somewhere... and I don't know of any passive volume controls with remotes.

I have to admit: that would actually look like some awesome mad scientist shit.

I think they're just different brand names for different regions, since I got mine in the UK rather than the US. The device I have looks just like the one in the video, and the box is the same too. Even the brands Tendak and Tensun sound pretty similar.

US Amazon actually has both for some reason. Weirdly the Tendak one has a slightly higher price.

https://www.amazon.com/Tensun-Composite-Converter-Upscaler-Nintendo/dp/B019T0WFA4/

https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Composite-S-Video-Converter-Upscaler/dp/B00V2ULHBS/

I'm surprised you couldn't get a good picture out of an RGB scart console though. In theory that should be even better than S Video.

Actually yes it can, technically anything that can be converted to HDMI can be played on a Xbox One including all Playstation consoles, all Nintendo Consoles and any media device you throw at it. It really is the all in one device.

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-1080P/dp/B009A6PJKQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376082378&sr=8-2&keywords=vcr+hdmi

To add even more support:

http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376082873&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+switcher

I recently tackled this problem myself, and after some research, I found that most (cheap) AV to VGA converters won't be compatible with all game systems. It has to do with the way it converts the signal, and while I won't go into specifics, it's because the quality of the conversion from interlaced(480i for example) to progressive(480p) depends very much on what resolution the console outputs. However, if your monitor has an HDMI input, I found this. I have this product, and I can say that it works perfectly for all my old consoles, including gamecube. As a bonus, it does transmit sound through the HDMI if your monitor has speakers as well. |Conversion Example| This is an slightly different/older version of the product, but mine works just as well.

Yes. The adapter would need to be one with some actual hardware, not just a cable with different jacks on both ends.

not used them myself, but something like this should do you.

Also it would look like absolute arse.

It won't look very good since composite has a ton of flaws, but the games will still be playable. It's basically about as bad as plugging a composite cable straight into your TV.

To be honest if you're gonna get a converter you might as well just get one with S-Video for a better image without spending too much money. https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Composite-S-Video-Converter-Upscaler/dp/B00V2ULHBS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495937443&sr=1-3&keywords=s-video+to+hdmi

Works perfectly for me. Combined with a cheap VGA-HDMI converter linked below. Perfectly crisp video and no glitches so far even on a cheapo 13" Dynex TV. Got other TV's in the house I need to also test with it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009L4X3ZA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Your best option is to plug directly into your receiver if it has an HDMI port. If it does but they are full, you can get an external switch to change sources, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XUQU/. If neither of those options work, an audio extractor is your next option, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/. This will still output HDMI video, but also send the digital audio out an optical port so you still get surround sound, though you will probably get a few milliseconds of lag, probably nothing too noticeable. In the magical event you don't even have optical, it still has stereo outputs which, for music, will be just fine.

You can put a simple Passive DVI-VGA adapter (The ones that they usually include with the Card) on the DVI-I for one of your VGA monitors but you'll need an Active adapter for either the Displayport or DVI-D to connect the 2nd VGA monitor, something like this or this

edit. fixed 2nd link

I use one of these for my old systems on my new TV.
Just a thought if you wanted to forgo the old TV. Then again some people like the retro on the old TVs!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009A6PJKQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works great!

While we don’t have a really good quality HDMI plug-and-play solution like how the GameCube has the GCHD, HDMyCube, etc; this is currently the “best” hdmi solution under $100.

Sewell Wii to HDMI Converter, Low Latency, 480p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072JP56G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TcD1CbY48RP96

The KRP-500M has no audio function at all unless the optional speakers are installed. Do you have speakers on your KRP-500M? Also how are you sending audio to your sound system? HDMI or optical?

With a device like a Roku, ideally what you do is plug HDMI from Roku to audio receiver, and then send video to the KRP-500M via the video out on the audio receiver.

Edit: Does the HT-J4500 even have an HDMI in? I guess it's a blu-ray player with HDMI out only? That's part of your problem. I don't think you're going to be able to get sound from the Roku. I don't think the KRP-500M has any audio outs either, only audio in. You might be able to get things to work with an HDMI splitter like this: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-JTDAT5CH/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=1-1-aGRtaSBhdWRpbyBleHRyYWN0b3I%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=hdmi+optical+splitter&pd_rd_i=B00BIQER0E&pd_rd_r=a59ec333-434b-477c-a3e8-7b642999f681&pd_rd_w=GQ4Hh&pd_rd_wg=leitC&pf_rd_p=39892eb5-25ed-41d8-aff1-b659c9b73760&pf_rd_r=XGWE6EPHMDYA5EXJY33R&psc=1&qid=1572482045. You would plug the Roku into that, send video to your KRP-500M using HDMI, and audio to your sound system using analog or optical.

In the longterm I would recommend investing in a traditional audio receiver with passive speakers.

I'll just give you the quick answer first, if you foresee the need to do this multiple times (or even if rarely but in critical time) just buy a monitor + keyboard + mouse. It's cheap and most importantly, very reliable.

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VGA in.

You need a capture card for this. Very few - if any - laptop would have this natively, though external USB card like this exists

Capture software.

This (in combination with the capture card) will be the most annoying thing. If you follow any twitch streamer you'll see how often this setup breaks - it almost depends on your windows update.

USB-to-USB.

USB is not a peer to peer protocol, you need something called USB bridge like this to convert output one side to input at the other side. This is also a dying breed, very few - if any - PC, both desk- and lap-top would even have this natively.

Keyboard-and-mouse-output.

Once you have the bridge, you need a software that map your keystroke into USB output. You also need to simulate the handshakes that identify your laptop (indirectly through the bridge) as a mouse and keyboard. Off the top of my head, I don't know any such software, and if they exists, they may only work with very specific bridges.

Every one of those component can break, and because how uncommon this setup is, I'd imagine it's not easy to 1) set up and 2) keep it working. You'll almost need a dedicate laptop for it. That'll definitely be more expensive than a spare monitor + keyboard + mouse.

I bought a Magewell USB 3.0 one and it does really good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I16VQOY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

IMO it's pricey but having good Linux Drivers is a top priority for me, and I wanted something I could use on my laptop and to be portable.

This is really good for a Wii. Converts the output to HDMI.

Sewell Wii to HDMI Converter, Low Latency, 480p

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072JP56G/

Edit: why downvotes? This was super recommended in a recent thread about an HDTV setup?

thats because DVI-I supports analog too, and VGA is analog.

DVI-D is purely digital, which needs an active converter to analog for VGA. eg. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVI-D-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00C93JQXS (no idea if this is actually a good one or not, its just an example here)

edit: also, do you nneed to convert from DVI-D signal to VGA, or VGA to DVI-D? the adapters rarely work in both ways.

edit2: as for latency, I'd assume all conversions introduce a latency of some sort. As for how noticeable it is, I can't say.