(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best video games

1) Fight sticks. you do not need a fight stick to play street fighter nor do you need one to be good players like SonicFox and Luffy play on playstation controllers, theres no inherent advantage besides a few input techniques and in some cases a stick can give the game a rewarding feel or the game to "click in your head"
Maxalillion goes into this quite in depth i recommend you watch his video on the mater to further your opinion on the matter.


I've been recomending Fightsticks for alot for people on reddit when these threads come up and with friends in person and i have to say due to feed back though you may not want to spend upwards $200-$300 on a stick but sticks in this range particularly the Hori mini4 and Mad catz alpha though built well for beginners will be uncomfortabel to use or leave you longing for more. i would only recommend those sticks if you want you kids to play with you and not on your big daddy stick or you are deathly on the edge or very skeptikal on buying a stick. if you are trying to be a little serious and maybe want to attend arcades it is better to get a higher end stick as they last longer, preform a little better and will be a bit comfortable to use. i personally recommend the Hori Rap4 Kai as it is very high quality and the cheapest one the mad catz TES+( is just as good but more expensive (its the same price right now thats a steal!) And the best of both worlds is the sony venom around 86 us with the conversion and bought on the amazon.uk site very good stick and is easy to mod when you are ready. these sticks are worth the cash if you are serious. Think this through as geting an arcade stick will slightly complicate the learning process of learning a new fighting game especially coming from a game quite different like smash brothers. i personally recommend going to your locals area and see if they have a SFV scene and ask some of the guys there to let you try out their stick or teach you some stuff heres a video on what you will actually be probably using a stick


2)Since you tell me you have come from smash you know fighting games. and you know they are hard to learn and hard to "git gud" so dont be afraid to lose, the best winners are the ones who learn from their loses. the first hurdle is understanding the game you are playing then the technical parts should slowly be introduced.


This is a good start

Vesper arcade (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ql2OZoRrfos&list=PLIhWuF_5aE1_xHpDsJD1U2OgU4ZuAZrxp)



Gootecks has a very good series aswell i recomend you watch this second (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AomsfS_8cT8&list=PL13KoUNKKsK2HQ_nWMR9wUqtwrA8k317I)

As for picking your main for a character you want to play. find someone who is fun and who you like regardless of strength. The Capcom character guides are a good place to see what a characters capable of and a little bit about their strengths and weaknesses for a better under standing (https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLs4LjNCY15zMKfPmf5M5_Ow9en17ur3BR) a youtuber under the name TrueUnderDogGaming has a similar line of videos (https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHXrezoc98F7jiQIPgeA9655yxUhRPI4x)



you said you like rashid SF has some insightful videos though they are for the micro complexities for the game they are short and helpful to understanding the game, did i mention he loves rashid hes also not a super duper good player so you will have an easy time relating and understanding him (https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL3f9nd40434_EJ-CkvC9pmzD6s0exYuaD)


on the sub reddit we also have pages dedicated to characters i recommend you check them out (https://www.reddit.com/r/StreetFighter/wiki/index)


like i said play who you want, but at the early stages there are soe chaaracters that are difficult to use, will impeed progress with complicated mechanics and play styles and worst case senario bad habits. if i were you i would consider giving THIS a glance before you make any final decisions



Another good resource to learn the game and im surprised it isnt praised and recommended to beginners is the street fighter V Collectors edition Guide book. it explains street fighter on a very basic level of understanding, explains some very general and important fighting game topics and lingo such as footsies and meaties. it also provides you with Frame data something very important later on in learning street fighter. i 10/10 recommend wish i had something like this when i started 2 years ago you can buy it at amazon.com


And the last place for help is our own sub reddit! you have any questions please come here everyone will help you out!


All the lingo, terminology and explanations so you can talk the talk on the reddit https://www.reddit.com/r/stReetfighter/wiki/iv/glossary


Come on down to Geifs Gym! a sub reddit guide to everything street fighter from basic to technical to mental is converd at geifs gym and is regularly updated. we also host noobie lobbies to test your skills and improve!

Come on down to GEIFS GYM https://www.reddit.com/r/stReetfighter/wiki/v/giefsgym



we also have a beginners guide here too https://www.reddit.com/r/stReetfighter/wiki/v/new_player_guide


just like smash (i did try learning smash) one of the first few things to do is get used to your stick and movement so just play the story and all the single player content we have "so far" and have fun! and welcome to the community. Fight well,Fight hard, Never give up and remember to... #RISE UP

> "what are other good LEFT-hand joystick other than the TM 16000m ?"

There are a handful of other options but the T16000M is the best value which is why it's always recommended. If you are willing to spend more, others will have suggestions for you... I don't honestly remember what the left-handed options are.

 

> "I read mixed things about the TM TARGET software, some good things, and some bad things. The first thing I would like to know is simply your opinion on it."

I know a fair amount of people that have trouble with TARGET but I never have. It seems some have hardware conflicts, but luckily, it's always just worked for me. Is it bullet proof? No. For me, the biggest issue is when, for various reasons, my T16000M is registered as a device later in the line than usual when booting, giving it a different ID. This tends to throw things off.

The thing to remember is that there are two parts to the TARGET software but you can't use both simultaneously. There is the TARGET GUI which lets you quickly and easily set up and configure the stick through an interface. It gets the job done if your needs aren't crazy. But, if you need more control over the configuration, you have to dive into the TARGET scripting in which you write code to make it do what you want. And, like any type of coding, if you're not familiar with it, it can be frustrating.

 

> "is there a way to make TARGET work with one TM and one non-TM stick at the same time ?"

Absolutely. I use a CH Fighterstick in my right and the T16000M in my left. BUT... TARGET can't see or communicate with a non-TARGET-enabled stick. I don't have pedals... yet. Maybe someday.

 

 

So... below is my setup and WHY I personally do this. It's not ideal for everyone but it's what brings me the most joy flying in SC given my budget/space/style parameters. I don't play with dual sticks to be highly competitive or to see my name on the leaderboards. I do it because it makes flying that much more enjoyable for me.

I've been playing combat flight sims since the late 80's with one or two sticks and I've been a dual stick user in SC for a couple years now and love it. Most here will recommend two of the very capable and affordable Thrustmaster T16000M or the newer version, Thrustmaster VG T16000M FCS. Both of these sticks have molded bits on the handle that are removable and come with replacements so you can make them usable in the right or left hand.

While I use dual sticks, I don't use two T16000Ms and here's why:

Yes, the T16000M can be made to work right or left handed... and that's fantastic. That's why I use it in my LEFT hand. And while it's true the T16000M has LOTS of buttons on it, 12 of those buttons are on the base and only accessible in a dual stick setup by taking one hand off of one of your sticks. That's not ideal.

So, I went with a CH Fighterstick for my right hand. I've always loved CH products... they just feel a little more sturdy to me. But, the reason I did it was because ALL the buttons on the Fighterstick are ON THE STICK within reach of your fingers/thumb. There are triggers, buttons and hats that amount to 24 (I think) digital buttons (on/off) within reach of your hand that's already holding the stick.

The main argument for using dual sticks is to have six analog axis in your hands at all times (X, Y, twist for both sticks). The drawback though of my setup is that while the T16000M has three analog axis (X, Y, twist) on the stick, the CH Fighterstick only has two (X, Y... no twist). That means with just the sticks, I have five analog axis to work with. BUT, for me personally, that was a trade-off I was willing to make. Eventually, I have dreams of owning pedals to cover the missing axis.

Also, I fly with all fixed guns, no gimbals. That's how I remove the gimbal variable for myself. Again, this is a choice based on the way I like to play flight sims.

Here's my setup:

I've posted my HOSAS (Hands On Stick And Stick... otherwise known as Dual Sticks) setup details multiple times... so I apologize to those who keep seeing it. I post it here again not because I feel it is the best method/setup, but simply for you to consider and take bits from if you wish:

-----

> I know it's easier said than done, but if you have access to two sticks (friends peripherals) and a HOTAS setup, try both/all and see what feels good. You could also find a really cheap, used stick on Ebay or ShopGoodwill.com as a test. So long as the axis work, that's all you need to test the setup. Then, if you're happy with how it feels, invest in a proper stick. I just happened to have an old, barely working stick laying around that I used to test the dual stick setup. After 2 weeks, I was convinced it was right for me so I picked up a newer stick (still used though).
>
> Here's a graphic of my bindings
>
> If you're curious, here are the videos I have specifically about dual stick:
>
> My Dual Flightstick (aka HOSAS) Configuration
> Game Play: Squadron Battle with Dual Joystick Overlay
>
> Here's a breakdown of my setup:
>
> #Right Hand (main)
>
> CH Fighterstick
>
> ------------------------
>
> X-axis: roll
> Y-axis: pitch
> Trigger: fire weapon group 1
> Pinky button: fire weapon group 2
> Side 4-way hat switch: Vertical and Lateral strafe
> Top left 4-way hat switch:
> Left: switch countermeasure
> Right: launch countermeasure
> Down: missile lock
> Up: fire missle
> Top right 4-way hat switch:
> Up: target object in reticle
> Left: Cycle friendly targets
> Right: Cycle hostile targets
> Down: don't remember...
> 8-way hat: only use down right now to look behind
> Right side red index finger "mode" button: IFCS mode switch (SCM, PRE, CRU)
> Don't use top red button yet
>
>  
>
> #Left Hand (off hand)
>
> T16000M
>
> -------------------------------
>
> X-axis: yaw
> Y-axis:
> Front half of axis: throttle
> Back half of axis: backward strafe
> Twist: strafe lateral
> Trigger: boost
> Throttle lever: set and forget throttle
> Top Left button on stick: Push-to-talk for Mumble and what not
> Top Right button on stick: couple/decouple mode toggle
> Hat UP: zoom in
> Hat DOWN: zoom out
> Three of the left side base buttons are the landing keys
> Two of the left side base buttons are Q-drive system and Q-drive engage
> And Match Target Speed is the last base button on the left
> * I have nothing bound to the six buttons on the right side of the base, yet
>
>  
>
> My two requirements and goals when I set this up when AC first came out was:
>
> 1. To have fine control over throttle on the Y-axis WITH reverse but to also be able to set the throttle using the throttle lever on the T16000M for longer flights without having to hold the T16000M forward to maintain velocity. For example, if I let go of the T16000M, my thrust will be 0. If I set the throttle lever to 75% and don't touch the Y-axis, my ship will maintain the 75% thrust/velocity. As soon as I touch the Y-axis, I again have fine control over thrust.
> 2. To be able to fly with only the main hand (CH Fighterstick) when fine throttle control was not necessary. I try to have all my main controls that I need on the Fighterstick with the extras on the t16000M. Combine that with some key VA commands and it works well in AC.
>
> I think the greatest drawback my setup has is that vertical strafing is not intuitive or easy (since it is bound to a hat on the Fighterstick). But, the throttle was the the key part of my setup and I wanted it on the Y-axis of the T16000M. I do not have pedals or any other peripherals.

----

Great idea to have a hobby with your son!

1. Coolermaster masterkeys Pro S RGB would probably be a good candidate for a first entry to the hobby. It is a pretty good quality board, and it has a standard layout, which means you can easily swap out keycaps without having to worry about special keysizes. It also has RGB, which i'm certain your son will find fun to play with as well. I just included a link to Amazon, but if you search a bit more i'm sure you could find a better deal.
   
   
2. As for keycaps you have a lot of choices in every pricerange. If you are looking for something specific, i suggest /r/mechmarket. Almost always someone is willing to sell you what you are looking for, for a reasonable price.
   
   Alternatively you could look at something like WASDkeyboards. They have a service, where you can make your own keyset, and have them make it. The quality is not the best, but i'm sure your son would appreciate being able to create something, and see his creation on his own keyboard.
   
   As for higher end options, i'm not sure how relevant they are for you, but you can look into GMK and Signature Plastics keycaps, which are available through a ton of websites like www.originativeco.com, www.pimpmykeyboard.com, www.massdrop.com and the list goes on. If you want i can give you a ton of more links in a PM.
   
   
3. Building a keyboard, is a good way to go deeper into the hobby, and i'm sure it would be a fun project. I suggest you take a good look at winkeyless' website. It's a store that sells keyboards in kit form, and they have pretty nice stuff. It's more expensive than a prebuilt like the Coolermaster, but that is just how it goes in this hobby.
   
   As for building the board, that is a whole topic in it self, and i suggest you start with the first point in your post, and move on from there. Learning about everything is part of the experience IMO.
   
   Hope the hobby brings you a ton of fun for you and your son. Also feel free to ask any question. There's a ton of people who would be happy to help. Including myself!

Absolutely.

For your controller needs, if you want to use a DualShock4, DS3, Wii U Pro Controller or WiiMote, all you need is a mini Bluetooth dongle and a driver such as DS4Windows (google "[controller] driver windows"). With the proper driver they should be supported under most games, but they might require a button mapping tool to work with some stuff (we can help you with that).

If you want to go the easy route and have a controller supported by most games with no driver configuration as soon as you plug it in, an Xbone controller is your choice. However, it will require a special M$ dongle to work wirelessly, and be warned that this dongle only works under Windows 10. Alternately, if you can live with some inferior design features, you can get a 360 controller (which still works with nearly all controller games) and its corresponding dongle, which has the added benefit of working with all Windows's back to XP. However, be aware that both of these controllers require AA batteries rather than the rechargeable packs found in DualShock/Nintendo. You can buy a rechargeable pack for Xbox controllers but it obviously costs extra.

All of the aforementioned controllers will also work over USB with any operating system.

Now to the second part of your question. I assume that you mean you want to play on your TV–this can be accomplished one of two ways and is easy to setup. The first and most obvious way is to simply keep your PC in your entertainment center and hook it to your TV over HDMI, in much the same way that you would your PS4. Steam's Big Picture mode tries to emulate the homescreen of a console to make controller navigation easier, and does a pretty good job of it. Coming from the PS4 interface I'm sure you'll feel right at home–but you do still need a KB+mouse to get in Big Picture from a cold PC startup. This shouldn't be an issue as there are many cheap wireless keyboards with inbuilt trackpads on offer.

The second way is to use a Steam Link. This is a very handy little set-top box that will stream video input over the internet from a PC in the house–if you've ever heard of the PlayStation TV, this is similar. In order to use the Link you must have fast (at least 10mbps; check using speedtest.net) Ethernet on both ends (your PC and the Link) and a controller that connects over USB (either thru a USB cable or a USB wireless receiver. The Xbox receivers mentioned in a previous paragraph currently don't work with the Link but Valve says they are looking into it). It's very simple to setup–hook the Link to internet, plug in your controller and HDMI cable for TV connection, and pair it with your PC. Then you'll have total access to all your controller-supported PC games from the couch, with no loss of graphics.

Also, as a PC gamer, I have a word for you–there are some games that do play better with KB+M, especially shooters. Trust me, once you try something like Call of Duty with a mouse, you will never be able to go back to aiming with controller sticks. If you want this benefit but still find KB+M uncomfortable, there is the Steam Controller which features a more accurate trackpad in place of the right stick, and will work with most of the games that an Xbox controller works with.

One final word. If you are actually, legitimately serious about getting into PC gaming–please for the LOVE OF GOD do not buy a pre-built one. BUILD. YOUR. OWN. Seriously, if you are looking to surpass consoles and get value for money, I CANNOT stress this enough. Although it may seem daunting at first it's really little more than high-tech LEGOs–/r/BuildaPCforMe will furnish you with a parts list so you don't have to bother with that, and then the build will take two hours tops (even if you're inexperienced). There are tons of great videos on YouTube that will show you how–this is my personal fave, although I do advise you not to use any of those parts since that vid is considerably old.

If you have any questions feel free to reply to this and I can help you out.

For both N3DS and N3DSXL systems

Some of these can also be found from retailers online, like Best Buy and Target. I generally use Best Buy, Amazon, and eBay, but check other retailers just in case.

Case: Looking for a protector that protects your system from scratches? Most people recommend the HORI TPU case. NA currently has one for the XL (LL in Japan), but you'll have to import one for the standard size.

• HORI TPU case for N3DSXL or sometimes the one from Japan is cheaper.
  
• HORI TPU case for N3DS, or just search "New 3DS HORI TPU" and look for the ones without XL/LL in the title.
  
  Looking for a pouch to keep your system from dust or to carry on-the-go and protect them from falls? There's sooo many options you can just search up on Amazon and eBay, not to mention other Japanese import sites.
  
  
• HORI Hard Pouch for N3DSXL is what I went with for my Fire Emblem N3DSXL. Looks plain and I admit I usually go for something different, but when I received it, it screamed good quality. It's black and looks classy, and there's room for 6 cartridges and a stylus. It also fits a system with the HORI TPU on. Alternatively, you can use this for the standard N3DS because it has a strap that will keep it in place.
  
• CyberGadget Mint Semi-Hard case for N3DSXL - I originally went for this one. It's fine if you just want to carry around your system, but that's all the room it has. It also had a weird chemical smoky smell that I'm still trying to air out (it's been over 2 weeks now). If the smell ever gets out, I'll use it. Maybe it's just the one I purchased.
  
• Trunk Case for N3DS - I have the blue one, and it's decent quality. These trunk cases seem to be in and out of stock though, and prices are unstable. If you can find one for a good price, I'd recommend it.
  
  Screen Protectors: Screens will inevitably get scratched, as careful as anyone can be. If you're someone who cannot stand scratches or want to keep your system in perfect condition, you can't go wrong with screen protectors.
  
  
• HORI Standard Screen Protectors for N3DSXL is what I had on my old N3DSXL. Here's one for the N3DS. Appliance is easy and they don't interfere with the 3D at all.
  
• HORI Blue Light Filtering Screen Protectors for N3DSXL and ones for the N3DS - I just wanted to reduce the blue light because I mainly play before I sleep. Research a bit about blue light if you'd like. I like them, they do the same job as the standard ones with the added blue light filtering.
  
  Micro SD card: Can't go wrong with Sandisk, and I purchased the 32GB since that's the highest Nintendo says the system will support. Any higher and you have to format it to FAT32 in your PC so the system will recognize it. Any good brand will be fine though, but I just go with Sandisk all the time.
  
  Stylus: This DSi stylus is so damn comfortable. I never thought it mattered because I just put up with the cramping, but I purchased some items on the Nintendo Online store, so I went for it. It's all I use now. The cheapest shipping is $5 on the store though, so go for it when you're ordering other items with it.
  
  Customization?
  For N3DS
  Coverplates: Amazon.JP if you have a forwarding service like Tenso. I like AmiAmi, but it's hard to catch the plates sometimes. PlayAsia tends to be more pricey, so sometimes you're better off just looking on eBay if your last resort is PlayAsia.
  
  For N3DSXL and N3DS
  
  Charms: Basically the same as the above. Many options around Etsy, just search what you want up. Up to your discretion. :)
  
  Overall
  Yeah, I'm a HORI fan. Their products have been solid for me, so I have no qualms with them. I just wish more of their products would appear in NA so shipping times would be shorter, but I think the wait times have been worth it anyway.

Some items on the list didn't have a direct link to Best Buy, but could be found on their website. I've made copies of these items as custom parts with URLs to the correct page for your convenience. I seriously spent 2 hours on this list. No exaggerating. I checked. I included an optic drive that does everything. Blu-Ray, Cds, DVDs, done. Slap on some headphones and you've got a pretty decent and nice looking gaming and media machine.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $189.99 @ Best Buy
Memory | PNY Optima 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $74.99 @ Best Buy
Storage | Transcend SSD340 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $114.99 @ Best Buy
Storage | Seagate SuperSpeed HDD 1TB 2.5" 5400RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive | $112.99 @ Best Buy
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 750 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card |-
Case | Rosewill CHALLENGER ATX Mid Tower Case |-
Power Supply | Corsair RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $112.99 @ Best Buy
Optical Drive | Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | $82.99 @ Best Buy
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) |-
Monitor | Acer H236HLbid 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $149.99 @ Best Buy
Keyboard | Razer BlackWidow Wired Gaming Keyboard |-
Mouse | Razer DeathAdder Wired Laser Mouse |-
Other| MSI Gaming Motherboard| $175.96
Other| XBox One Wireless Controller| $59.99
Other| Rosewill CHALLENGER Case URL| Purchased
Other| MSI Windforce Twin Frozr GPU URL| Purchased
Other| Windows 7 OS URL| Purchased
Other| Razer DeathAdder URL| Purchased
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1415.76
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-21 04:04 EST-0500 |

I will also recommend Razer's Sabertooth controller, which is a bit more pricey, but way cooler.

Also, In order to use your xbox one controller with your PC, you'll need this.

Here are some examples of what you can accomplish outside of Best Buy:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/8r9499

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/YFK4Jx

And I can make a new build from scratch to further prove my point. I really hope this helped. Let me know if you want more advice :)

Having a long micro usb cable to keep a wireless controller charged is a good call (though you need to keep your system in standby if that is where you charge from)

However, i would recommend getting a second controller (some good couch co-op games this gen) and a dock like this: http://www.amazon.com/DualShock-Controller-Charging-Station-PlayStation-4/dp/B00ENFVJJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411572210&sr=8-1&keywords=ds4+dock
and then just swap controllers when one dies.

There are a bunch of free-to-play games now, so you might have things to play before you start paying $60 for AAA games (I got into warframe for a while, but it is confusing to start). Also, a lot of cheaper ($10-20) indies too.

Of course i'd recommend paying the $30-$40/yr for PS+ (it should hit $30 on black friday, but you can find $40 every now and then. Normal price is $50/yr) you probably got a free one month card with your console, keep an eye out for the cheaper sales (this subreddit seems good for that) subscription stack. So if you can go until november, grab a couple for cheap then.

PS+ includes a bunch of free games every month, and further discounts on others. Of course the PS4 games are there (2 per month) but often times the vita or PS3 games might be on multiple systems and are "cross buy" or buy once play on any system. Also, go on a computer and "buy" all of the available games each month. It doesn't cost anything and sometimes a PS4 version of the game comes out later and is "free" if you had grabbed the other version when it was available. (happened recently with hotline miami.)

The camera accessory isn't necessary yet, don't worry about it.

A vita is a pretty great system on it's own, but it is really great paired with a PS4. You can remote play the system, leaving the TV open for other folks. This can work on the same network, but also from far away too (I've done it between NYC and Chicago but there was some noticeable delay, great for some games, not great for others (shooters)).

There are a bunch of great subreddits for various games (or trophy hunting, or finding PSN friends) so check those out.

Personally i'm just playing destiny now, but there is already a huge catalog of great games. Just don't listen to the nobs who complain about all the indies. They are some of my favorite games and they certainly aren't slowing down big games like Destiny, but you hear about it a lot on subs like this.

Wow, nice grab. First, I highly, highly recommend getting some grips. They make the vita less portable, but they also improve not only comfort but ease of playing since you're less likely to hit the rear touch pad. I have these and I'd recommend these to anybody, easily the best investment for the system I made. As for a case for the system itself, pretty much anything works well. The CTA one works well apparently and is <$10, which is always great. But the top-of-the-line one is the Amazon case. It's more expensive but the "heavy duty" in the name is definitely true. Game-wise, grab Uncharted, Killzone, and, if you like JRPGs, P4G. Those are probably the three best games on the system currently, though there is a metric shit-ton of great games to play after those.

I was skeptical but hopeful for years, until I saw Hurston and Lorville get released, and I finally jumped in both-feet during the end of the last Anniversary sale. Player-generated clips like this one and this one definitely helped convince me... I mean look at that, it's all actually there in the game, nothing is a backdrop only for viewing from that spot on some map, that sun isn't rising, the earth-sized planet you are on is spinning in space.

My biggest suggestion: get a proper HOTAS, or at least a stick with a throttle on it and some good base-area buttons - I use an old Saitek X-52 that interestingly enough is being re-released in a few weeks. There are some serious mil-sim level ones out there too. The T-Flight Hotas X and T16000M are popular for the budget-minded (although Star Citizen will rapidly change your mind about what "sensible expenditure" in a game means lol). Get a used one if you want a killer one but can't afford new (seriously though, $60 man, very worth it), but it's a huge help not having to go to keyboard commands for anything flight-related, including targeting, countermeasures, scanners, thruster controls, etc. When hopping out of your flight seat (either to do something in your ship or get out of it entirely), just have the mouse and keyboard positioned to either side of the flight stick, easy. You'll use the mouse in the cockpit a fair bit too, to interact with the MFDs sometimes for things like requesting landing clearance, changing MFD functions, overclocking components on the ship, etc,. It's the most immersive sci-fi flight/FPS/society game I've ever seen.

I'd highly recommend to get in as soon as they announce Update 3.5, adding the entirely new planet ArcCorp, its main landing area for spaceships Area 18, several moons, and the long-awaited new flight model, go Public Live in a few more days. Fly your starter ship (I recommend the Avenger Stalker starter ship or the Cutlass Black package for the bit of cargo space you get, helps make a little money and can still fight ), enjoy a bit of mission running, exploration etc, and learn the world, and when the next massive Anniversary Sale comes around in November you'll know what ships you really want and can make informed decisions, as the sales they have at that time are awesome.

Whatever starter package you get, it'll need to be a "Game Package" that includes the base game as well, and after that one-time buy you just buy standalone ships or packages if you want to pay real money, or you can buy many of them in-game for game-money (UEC) if you make enough (many good ones are millions of UEC). The advantage of paying real money is that they will be with you forever - as they make major updates CIG usually resets all accounts to starter levels again, and you lose anything you earned in that version of Alpha - but you also have many advantages in Alpha that will not be present in the final game so still worth it to buy cheaper ships in-game IMO.

^edit: ^added ^bit ^about ^game ^packages

I'm going to copy and paste a comment I made on another post, maybe it will relate to you.

> I just bought a Switch last week and over the week bought BOTW, MM2, and MK8. I was torn between a PS4 and a Switch, but have been so happy with my decision.

>What I wanted to mention though, is how easy it is to get your X1 or PS4 controllers to work on the Switch. I'm not crazy about the joycons, and it was eating me up thinking I had to spend $89.99(cdn) to get a second controller (pro) so my friends and family could play when they are over.

>So i started looking for 3rd party controllers, which lead me to finding 8bitdo, which is a company that makes controllers across all gens of consoles, as well as lots of adapters and other gaming things.

>I bought this adapter for $25 and it will let you use your ps4, xbox, or other controllers on the Switch.

>This was perfect since I alread had two PS4 controllers for my PC. Once the adapter showed up the same day (thanks Amazon) it was as simple as plugging the USB adapter directly into the Switch, and hitting pair on the adapter, then the PS and share button on the controller, and boom, it worked just like that.

>Full rumble, full motion controls, and I get to keep using my favourite controllers on the Switch, with seemingly no compromises. :).

Long story short, if you already have controllers laying around that you like, you can save money by just getting an adapter for them. Once you do the super easy setup, it just works like a Switch controller with no more steps, so it doesn't get confusing. I see someone below recommend 8bitdo's version of the pro controller, and based on my experience with the company, that is probably a good purchase too.

edit: This is the link to the adapter. The quote didn't carry over the link.

One important thing to mention, I believe the adapter only works in docked mode, so there is a compromise. Though if you're playing handheld you likely have the joy cons attached anyway.

I use TPU cases for both of my N3DSXL's and another one I had to special order from overseas for my N3DS. They do a good job of protecting the systems and still allow me to see the designs on them since I wanted something clear as I have Monster Hunter faceplates on my black N3DS looks like this, and my XLs are the Galaxy Blue and Monster Hunter 4 Ultimate units.

For carrying around, I have an Amazon Basics Case that is small and light and fits in a backpack or purse easily while protecting the whole system. Fits both N3DS and N3DSXL units with the TPU cases on and uses the elastic bands to hold them in place.

For storing at home so they're kept in good shape: I have two of the Smatree Hard Protective Carrying Case which is a much bulkier case, and allows me to keep a 3DS charger with the units if I don't put much else in the zippered pouch on the top half. The inner pouch with the ability to lift it out is an interesting design for keeping the system protected and is a snug fit for N3DSXL's with the TPU case on, but still doable.

Amazon Link for HORI N3DSXL TPU case. It used to be much cheaper, so look around to find the best price.

Amazon Link for the Japanese version HORI N3DSXL TPU case. This alternate link is about half the price for the same exact product that's above.

eBay link for a New 3DS TPU case. I recommend this for N3DS units as the glossy plates are easy to scratch on N3DS units and the plates can be hard to get as it is, don't want them to get scratched when they're hard to find or expensive.

Finally, no matter what unit you get: Always use a screen protector and get one once you decide which system to get to have it ready for when you finally get your system. Some people have waited on getting protectors and have scratched screens day one since the plastic over the touch screen is quite soft.

New 3DS IllumiShield Screen Protector Set

New 3DS XL Tempered Glass Protector Set Note: I have used and recommend the HORI brand, but those seem to be out of stock on Amazon and I'm not sure where to look for it.

Then, there's also GRIPS for the units as they're quite small and thin and quite a few people have problems holding their units. I like the styles from CyberGadget and use their grips, but there's also silicone grips that some people like. You can take off the TPU case on the bottom and put the grip on and just store the TPU case somewhere as you use the top half of the TPU case to protect the top shell of your unit. Obviously, any grip out there will bulk up your system and make them less portable and unable to fit in any of the cases. However if you're at home, it's nice to be more comfortable with your gaming sessions.

The two I'll link are my preferred grips for several reasons: They keep everything on the 3DS accessible as some of the grips are known for blocking off the game card slot and even the stylus, they have a game card door on the back that can store 2 game cards in there, they're easy to put on and take off, and won't scratch your system as they're covered in a rubberized material.

New 3DS Grip from CyberGadget You should be able to find it cheaper elsewhere.

New 3DS XL Grip V2 from CyberGadget I use this every day on the N3DSXL that I play.

You have a couple options. XBOX and PS controllers will work on your phone but not directly. The easiest option is to get an "on the go" (OTG) cable that converts USB micro to regular USB and plug a wired modern controller into the OTG cable. When I say wired I mean you have to have it plugged into your Xbox or PS to play on that system. Modern bluetooth controllers (xbox/ps) with the recharge cables have different setups.

I only have a wireless Xbox controller. I bought the OTG and receiver cables linked below. I tried only for a few minutes to get it working but gave up pretty quick. Plenty of people have gotten this to work and I'm sure I could as well if I tried a bit harder.

I ended up buying the 8BitDo controller to play OG Mario and I really like it. I ended up ordering another one for my wife for Christmas. I bought an MHL adapter and play Super Mario and Contra from my couch on my Plasma with my bluetooth controller. Its pretty slick.

If you use the modern console controllers you aren't able to use the MHL HDMI cable. I know there are other options to throw your phone screen on the TV but I found this the easiest option. I vaguely remember having an issue getting my phone in landscape mode with Chromecast casting.

My Setup

Classic NES Controller It has top trigger buttons as well, all of these are programmable depending on what emulator you use.

OTG Cable Nothing fancy about these, with this one you are supposed to be able to plug a power cable into the extra pigtail to help charge your device while playing. I have used this to plug in a regular USB memory stick, a full size keyboard, and a few other items for testing purposes. Everything worked wonderful.

Wireless Gaming Receiver

MHL adapter I price matched this and a micro SD card at Best Buy. This also has a power port on it which I have used.

Also check out /r/androidgaming for more info or reqs on other controllers besides the ones I've listed.

In that case, I'm not sure any of these solutions are authentic aside from the PSIO SD Card mod. This is the Playstation TV and it uses a PS4 controller but you can play a ton of PSX games from PSN with it, (or hack it and add your own games): https://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-TV-vita/dp/B00KVMHSUM?th=1

And the Android boxes would be something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Android-32bit-support-2-4GHz-SPDIF/dp/B0777KLRW8/ref=sr_1_74_sspa?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1523471934&sr=1-74

But you would have to use an emulator and a bluetooth controller like a PS3/PS4/8BitDo controller with. They make great emulation boxes and are similar to raspberry pis in that regard, but depending on the specs of the box they tend to be a little more powerful and can support things like PSP game as well as the added benefit of Android apps like Netflix and Hulu. I have one hooked up to my tv that's been a pretty nice general entertainment box, and to be honest I've used it more than the higher end Nvidia Shield TV (which is the same thing but has exclusives like Android ports of Borderlands 2, Doom 3, Portal, and other old AAA games).

I'm glad I could be of help! I love my Vita and I couldn't be happier to help someone else decide if they want one of their own.

FPS have been really hit or miss depending on your play style. For instance the Black ops declassified campaign was really poor. It was basically a bunch of time trials strung together. However I had a really good time with the horde mode the game offers and drop back in to it every now and again when I have a few minutes to spare.

I've been hearing really good things about Killzone mercenary so much so in fact that I'm starting to believe that this game could end up being a heavy system seller.

Here's a gameplay trailer

For the record I also enjoy the single player campaign to these games, they come off as corny action movies. Which is the best thing ever.

Can you elaborate on the rear touchpad? What is it made for? Will it get in the way of me trying to play the games I've purchased?

The rear touch pad adds a significant amount of interaction to many Vita titles. For instance Little big planet Vita allows you to interact with some objects in the environment in different ways. It also functions as the L-2 and R-2 buttons for PS2 titles. Many games don't bother with it's use what so ever however, so it's kind of hit or miss.

The difficulty you'll have with it really depends on the size of your hands, as a giant handed monstrosity I have some issues with it personally. Getting some grips for your Vita well help out quite a bit if you're a fellow monstrosity.

These trigger grips help a bunch

Lastly, I'm guessing that I can DL games from PS+ while I'm on my home wifi. Is that correct, or is there a specific cable that I need to DL games from PS+ directly to the Vita?

You can indeed download games via wifi quite easily with the Vita, while also being able to transfer them to either cloud storage or your PC to save space when not playing them. Additionally the the AC adapter doubles as a USB cord to plug the system into your PC for easy transfers and whatnot. It's good stuff.

I hope this helped! And don't worry about asking questions, we're a pretty helpful community overall! :D

*Edit: So many typos -_-

Well, for general emulation of older system - your best bet might be a phone if you have a semi-recent model. Just get a blue-tooth controller cradle, and maybe even check to see if your phone can cast it's screen to your TV for full-screen. You can even emulate the Dreamcast on modern android phones via Reicast.

I prefer the Vita - but there's some caveats. Most importantly, you have to install custom firmware, which is against Sony's terms of service. I've never heard of anybody being banned, but it's possible at pretty much any time. So if you go that route, make a new account that's not tied to your PS4's library. Installing CFW merely requires you to be on official firmware 3.60 and under, and then visiting a certain site. The process is pretty much automated. A better option may be the PSP - which has a much worse screen, but better controls for playing classic games IMO. You don't need a PSN login for the PSP, so no risk of being banned, and CFW is as easy to install as starting up a game. The Playstation (Vita) TV is another good option which will let you use a DS4 (or I assume compatible PS4 arcade sticks) - but functionally, works the same as the Vita. They're pretty cheap - but memory cards are ungodly expensive for meager space. Thankfully, with the PSTV running CFW, you can use USB thumb drives - and the Vita can now use SDCards via a Game Cart converter. In all of those cases, you'll need access to a PC at least temporarily (or maybe you can do it on a phone if there's a decent FTP server program) so that you can download and move the necessary files over.

There's very few actual emulators written so far for the Vita, and most of the ones you'll want are accessed through a homebrew called Adrenaline - which basically turns the Vita into a PSP. They just released a custom bubble installer for Adrenaline too, that way you can just launch the PSP emulator you want right from the home menu without having to actually go into Adrenaline first. On the downside, since these are all running via the Vita's built-in PSP functionality - you're limited to the PSP's specs... which means it can only emulate up to N64 era games (PSX games run great, N64 - not so much). No Dreamcast emulation, sadly. Maybe later natively on the Vita, but that's going to be a stretch.

Couldn't say much about the homebrew scene on the Xbox 360, since I haven't followed it. I'm sure there is. There's also an actual potential good reason to get a (cheap) Xbox One - since you can sign up for the Developer Program which will let you side-load homebrew/emulators onto the system. It doesn't seem very popular so far, and will require a connection to a Windows 10 PC.

Overall, I'd say the best and easiest bet would be to get a PSP 3000 for on-the-go, or if you want a more arcade experience in the livingroom, and you want it cheap - then a VitaTV and a good PS4 Arcade stick. Just, again... make sure it's running Official Firmware 3.6 or lower. The necessary exploits won't work on newer firmwares.

https://www.ps4home.com/ps4-arcade-stick-guide/

https://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-TV-vita/dp/B00KVMHSUM

> Systems aren't easy to find except used

That's odd, I can find them pretty easily on Amazon for a fairly decent price. The PSTV and P4G together would be like the price of a new game right now which is much more appealing to someone than asking them to get a PS3 or emulate if they're not into that.

> but getting a Vita/PSTV now is a pretty terrible idea.... P4G is just about the only game worth playing on the system

That's not true, I'd argue the Vita/PSTV is a really great console for JRPG fans (which I'm assuming people who like Persona 5 are). Surprisingly the Vita sold pretty decently in Japan, and survived by porting a bunch of rpgs to the West. Got a few myself like Tails of Hearts R, and it's pretty fun ngl.

Ok first off hi! I'm beatlemnkyhuman a.k.a Jesus nice to meet you.

You don't need a stick

It's a luxury. Sticks are pricey and custom sticks can get really pricey. I've heard of players buying sticks and never using them so some buy them just for the swag but it is no longer needed.

Luffy won evo and went pro with a ps1 pad and he still uses a ps1 pad.

Punk went pro on pad, nuckledu is pro on pad coolkid plays pad.

you no longer need a stick

A stick will not make you better.
Contrary to popular belief a stick is not magic.

You will still have to work. In my personal experience, it took me 3 months or so to get over pad and get used to stick. If you did not grow up with a stick then there's no reason.

Next thing, if you did grow up with a stick then your memory maybe rose tinted in that your remembering being better then you ever were. Sticks take work just like pad.

If after all this you still want a stick:

I recommend focus attack for custom art work and big e customs for custom designs as that's what I use

[the te2 is the pro standard. Amazing stick, easy to mod. Sanwa buttons and sanwa stick.] (https://www.amazon.com/Fighter-FightStick-PlayStation4-PlayStation3-playstation-4/dp/B018AW405K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543512575&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=madcatz+te2%2B&dpPl=1&dpID=41vrhKHqO9L&ref=plSrch)

some players prefer the hori rap4 with hori parts. It's cheaper so the stick is a little more loose. Hori parts fully and difficult to mod

the qanba drone is seen as a cheap alternative. Sanwa buttons i think and if not it can be modded easily. Known to not last

The qanba dragon is a monster of a stick that goes for 300 and the obsidian goes for 200.

EDIT: The razr panthera is a pro favorite as well, impossible to mod the artwork but an amazing stick for 200

If you want to go custom from the ground up then you can do allfightsticks. Com which will give you a sleek heavy steel frame or marvelous customs.

Each of those custom sticks will run you 300 plus.

You can even go wood frame which may be even more expensive.

Good luck.

As many people have mentioned, Star Citizen is still an in-development title, and there are lots of bugs and will likely continue to be lots of bugs for quite a while.

That being said, there are lots of people who are OK with this and are able to enjoy themselves, some fall on the other end of the spectrum and get really frustrated so it's worth keeping in mind that there is a 14 day refund policy. If you or he decides you aren't satisfied with your purchase, you can submit for a refund at any time in that 14 day window.

If you're still with us and you want to go ahead and buy him something, here's four strong options for you to consider:

1) Buy the Mustang Alpha Starter Package for $45 - https://robertsspaceindustries.com/pledge/Packages/Mustang-Alpha-Starter-Pack

2) Buy the Mustang Alpha Starter Package for $45 - https://robertsspaceindustries.com/pledge/Packages/Mustang-Alpha-Starter-Pack

Then upgrade it to an Avenger Titan using this $20 CCU (Cross Chassis Upgrade is an item that you will find in your hangar on the website after purchase and can then apply it to the Mustang Alpha to convert it into an Avenger Titan) - https://robertsspaceindustries.com/pledge/Upgrades/Mustang-Alpha-To-Avenger-Titan-Upgrade

Most players in Star Citizen have owned at one point, or currently own an Avenger because it is incredibly versatile for its price allowing you to do both combat and hauling stuff while not being paper thin. It's also the one I'd recommend the most for him. He can always use the CCU system to upgrade his ship to something else later once he has a better idea of what he wants to do.

3) If he's likely to mainly do combat, then perhaps the Arrow would be a good choice $90 - https://robertsspaceindustries.com/pledge/Packages/Anvil-Arrow-Starter-Pack

It will be noticeably more combat capable than the Avenger Titan, but it doesn't have any cargo space. It is a very popular ship right now for combat pilots.

4) If you really want to splurge, then get the Cutlass Black Package $115 - https://robertsspaceindustries.com/pledge/Packages/Cutlass-Black

The Cutlass Black is larger than all the other mentioned ships and it's the first real offering that gives you decent multi-crew features. It has an interior you can walk around in with a couple beds (beds are used for logging off if you're out in space instead of at a station), It has a good sized cargo bay that's great for traders. It has a copilot seat which can be used by a second person to help manage shields etc..

It also comes with a turret for some extra firepower. It has plenty of teeth, and you can't really go wrong with it.

 

If he really ends up liking the game, he should look into picking up some flight hardware (Joysticks etc..). I'd recommend either the t16000m FCS HOTAS $130

Or the dual t16000m setup $115

You can also just buy a single t16000m joystick for around $60 and then buy a second one later. They can be flipped to lefty pretty easily, so don't feel like you need to buy two right away.

In terms of bang for buck, there is no contest compared to these in the budget arena. I personally fly with two sticks, some people prefer the stick plus throttle.

 

In closing, my personal advice would be to buy him the Mustang Alpha ($45) and the CCU to the Avenger Titan ($20), then tell him you'll contribute X dollars towards some flight hardware (Joystick/throttle etc) or further ship CCU's once he knows what he wants.

Best of luck on your decision making!

I actually have gone through three.

first I got the dreamgear and holding that one worked really well but i didn't like the material so much and it kept slipping off parts of the 3ds. plus it's also geared towards protection which I'm not too worried about so I returned that one

then I tried the cyber one which honestly felt the best overall to hold. I have pretty big hands and it just fit perfectly like an actual controller. But, for me at least the shoulder buttons were really hard to get to. The way my hands fit onto it, my fingers didn't rest on the shoulder buttons naturally, and trying to move them in the heat of the moment wasn't really working out.

so I returned that one, and picked up this one. I actually just got it today so I haven't gotten to try it out yet, but I've heard good things about it, and it seems like the best of both so here's hoping

Lots of good ones exist that will ship to Canada. I've tried quite a few, but the best proper tempered glass screen for the Switch that I have ever used seems to be available in Canada aswell. I didn't actually buy mine from Canada though (as I don't live there) but Amazon's own fulfillment centers now seem to have their own stock of the one I got on all the Amazons, which means you will be able to get them shipped locally without having to wait long delivery times or any customs clearance issues like many people have reported when they ordered stuff for their switch straight from the various 3rd party manufacturers themselves. (the trick to getting anything on amazon in the fastest possible way is to simply order it from the amazon that is based in your country, and to always use the one that says "Fulfilled by Amazon" under the title. (as that means Amazon themselves have the stock physically in their own warehouses, which are based in that country, and you'll usually be able to get things like expedited delivery, and proper tracking info, etc.) Far superior in my opinion.

If you want to see the screen protector that I liked best out of all the ones I have physically guineapigged for the switch, I'd say it's hands down the Orzly one by far...
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N9RG3XS

You're welcome. I'd have added more but, as you may have noticed, I hit the comment character limit.

By the way, the 360 dongle doesn't cost as much as the steam controller. I have this one, it's $14 atm.

If you do decide on the steam controller, Amazon has it with the carry case for the same price as they have the controller by itself. Here.

Also, adding on about the controller, at this point I've had two other people (who don't play a lot of games) try the controller and they picked it up easily. It seems like the biggest issue people have is unlearning other controllers, rather than learning the new one.

It's also possible that part of it is the fact that trackball emulation is the best way (imo) to control the camera via the controller. One of the two people, the one who picked it up easier, regularly uses a trackball to play games already and was used to the way it responded. In fact, I used a trackball to play games for a long time as well. Maybe that's part of why some people learn to use it easier than others. I'm not sure, I'm rambling anyway. The point is that it takes a bit of effort to unlearn how you play with other controllers.

I'd love to know what you decide though. The steam controller is superior, in my opinion, except for the lack of a physical d-pad. That's just about the only downside and I can make do with that since I don't play a lot of platformers and the radial menus make waaaay better quick selects.

If you've never tried a mechanical keyboard before, its not simply the "click", but the feel of the entire typing experience. You will have to try it out to know what I mean. There are many different types of key switches with different amounts of force required to register their presses, different ones that have a tactile bump that tell you when you've activated the key, ones with no bump at all, different ones that click when pressed down, combinations of these, and a lot more. Its good to be educated about the different types of key switches before finally investing into a mechanical keyboard, based off of your situation and preferences. Head to /r/MechanicalKeyboards if you want to see people with way too many keyboards and good recomendations. Personally, I'd recommend the Cooler Master Storm Quickfire series here and here, or the popular Poker II from Massdrop. A good mechanical keyboard is definitely a worthy investment, as it will last you for a very long time and you can swap out the keycaps if they get damaged or if you want a different look. Also note that Razer's mech keyboards are lower quality than most other keyboards due to their special key switches manufactured in China, so don't trust Razer's keyboards no matter how flashy they look. You're better off with literally any other mechanical keyboard.

For your mouse, its personal preference but if you're going to play something "serious" like CS:GO I'd recommend any mouse from Logitech's gaming lineup since their sensors from the lowest to the highest pricepoint are trusted by pro players.

Happy gaming!

I cannot attest to the quality of Mayflash fight sticks. If you're looking at something like this then I'll say I bought something very similar for the PS2, I'm talking probably the same stick even, and the build quality was very poor. The buttons specifically were so stiff they were hard to press. I bought it and a converter to play a Wii fighting game, but the stick's quality bummed me out enough to quit. If I had played the game as much as I wanted, maybe the buttons would have loosened up... or maybe I would have accidentally broken the thing.

However a stick like that would work on PC. I mean, it would plug in, and the buttons and stick would function. It'd just be a cheap, potentially crappy/easily broken stick. I bought my PS2 stick like 6 years ago so maybe the build quality is better now.

If you want my recommendatiom, I'd buy a regular pad like the PS3/PS4 pad or 360/One pad. The idea that fighting games are best played on sticks is a myth; many pro players in every game use pad and dominate. Many theorize that pads are actually superior overall to sticks. In fact, the penultimate controller for fighters seems to be something called a "Hit Box" which replaces the stick entirely with buttons (very similar to a keyboard at that point). What it boils down to is using something comfortable... which I worry the mayflash stick won't be.

Anyways, I'd recommend a pad because they're just as good as sticks, if not better, and they can be used for multiple types of games. The best pad users seem to like the PS3 style pad, which would be the one I recommend since its the cheapest with a decent dpad... though, personally, when I use pad, I use the analog sticks. If you REALLY want a stick, the only quality ones I know of are in the $150 range... stuff like this. It's possible to buy a cheapo stick and upgrade it with nicer parts, and its not necessarily all that hard, but that's a lot of hoops to jump through to play DBZ.

I preordered this grip from PlayAsia but looks like you get just get straight from Amazon now. https://www.amazon.com/buttons-mounted-Remote-attachment-PlayStationVita-PCH-2000/dp/B01ERA94BY It's pretty bulky but I love the fact they you can use trigger buttons for L2/R2 and L3/R3. Works reallly well for remote play! It does add weight to the system and impede portability, however. But the hand grips and trigger buttons might be a good choice if your hands are starting to ache from the grip. If you never use the rear touch pads, then any of the other grips already mentioned should work fine. Good luck!

Thanks, the theory I had was confirmed with the info you've provided, specifically "CUSA12153".

I am really disappointed at how Koei Tecmo have been handling DOA6 ever since its announcement. This is mess you've found yourself into is their fault too but it's quite niche and region specific, so not many people here and on other forums would have had to deal with it, much less understand what is going on. I'll explain as best I can.

Wall of text next.

---

Note on PLAS

PLAS is indeed the prefix for Asian physicals and should work with most Asian region PSN accounts but the truth is more complicated than that. PLAS does not only include regions like Hong Kong, Taiwan, and South Korea but also South East Asia (SEA) and more often than people realize, not all PLAS games are available on all non-Japan Asian PSNs. Using an "Asian" PSN account does not guarantee access to compatible DLCs for PLAS physicals.

Regarding actual regions of DOA6 clients

Forget about the codes for physical copies for now, let's look at the actual client region of DOA6 based on PSN codes. There are 3 regions in total with the following prefixes:

• JP0106-CUSA11472 (Japan/Asia), JP0106-CUSA12040 (Core Fighters)
  
• UP4108-CUSA12153 (US/Americas), UP4108-CUSA12152 (Core Fighters)
  
• EP4108-CUSA12116 (Europe), EP4108-CUSA12117 (Core Fighters)
  
  The sections in BOLD are the main identifier codes for the client's "version/model". At this point you might have already connect some dots based the folder name of the save files I asked you to look up.
  
  

  Koei Tecmo's/PSN's stupid decisions
  

  It was somehow decided that some Non-Japan Asian regions will get both the Japan and US versions of DOA6 and the distribution will be super retarded.
  
  PLAS-10362 physicals (the physical version that you've got) are printed in Taiwan, distribute locally along with and in some other Asian regions, like SEA. These regions also distribute PLJM-16352 and possibly other sub region specific codes like for South Korea (I don't know the code).
  
  The first catch is that PLAS-10362 is actually exactly the same as the US physical and contains the US version of the client (UP4108-CUSA12153), the only differences being the labels and maybe the manufacturing locations.
  
  The second catch is that although PLAS-10362 is distributed in some Asian regions, some of the PSN stores in those regions do not have the US version of the game (UP4108-CUSA12153) and its DLCs, therefore do not support DLCs for PLAS-10362. Some of these regions are Hong Kong, South Korea, and Taiwan. For Taiwan, it is especially ironic because they are the one who publishes PLAS-10362, yet their own PSN doesn't support it.
  
  SEA regions have both Japan (JP0106-CUSA11472) and US (UP4108-CUSA12153) versions of the client on PSN, as well as the DLCs for both. That is not necessary a good thing though because the Japan version is superior due to having the option for individual costumes DLC purchases, since the two versions have the same language options, having both is redundant and only serves to confuse people.
  
  ---
  
  

  Your options
  

1. Return/refund that copy of PLAS-10362 or cut your losses. If you still want a physical copy, find a copy of PLJM-16352 (contains JP0106-CUSA11472 client) or otherwise other Non-English label region specific equivalence (for example the Korean version, I don't know the codes). Alternatively, buy directly from PSN on your Hong Kong PSN account for the most fail-safe option for DLC compatibility.
   
   
2. Contact PSN support to refund Nyotengu on your Hong Kong PSN account or cut your losses. Make a US PSN account and set your PS4 as its primary (you can have multiple primary PSN accounts on one console but a PSN account can only have one primary console). PLAS-10362 should work with DLCs bought on the US account. As long as you have your PS4 set as the US account's primary, you can use your Hong Kong account to play and access DLCs bought on the US account. If you do not have a US payment method for buying DLCs, buy digital gift codes from US Amazon, they accept foreign credit cards.
   
   

   My sincere suggestion
   

   If possible, pick the first option. Everyone who has the US or EU versions of the the game on PS4 are hoping that Koei Tecmo will come to their senses and add individual costume DLC purchases for US and EU, but there is no guarantee that will ever happen. Thus, it's better safe than sorry to get the Japan version if it's already a readily accessible option anyway.
   
   ---
   
   Note: I gave my suggestions assuming that you are somewhere in Asia. If you are not, please let me know and I will give you additional info that will be important for your online play experience.
   
   Edit: Typo fixes.

PSN_ID

Game I want: Ys I & II Chronicles (PSN), to play on my PS Vita.

It costs 14,99, so a 20 US dollars PSN gift card would be enough (probably purchasable at Amazon or anywhere else you would prefer)

Hello, sir/madam gifter. As a 24yo English (major) student, my tastes are being shaped by literature and other studies, such as my own research on Japanese to English localization and translation, so modern games like military shooters, multiplayer arena stuff and so on and so forth are not really appealing to me anymore. It's hard to find a game that draws my attention as hard as the Ys series can do.

I've been looking to buy/start this series for a long time since most games are available for my PS Vita, but I can never find deals at the appropriate time. I just recently got a job, but I've been saving to get married (hopefully soon) and I had to dedicate my spare money to buy some clothes and keep on par with my current profession's standards (EFL teacher).

For instance, Ys Origin is currently on sale for 11,99 for the Vita (crossbuy with the PS4), but I imagine that this "I & II" compilation would be a better place to start the series. I don't mind ^allegedly outdated graphics and gameplay if the story is great, and as far as I researched it this game's story is amazing.

I would use this gift as a starting point to the series and then eventually, after beating this first two games, purchase the next game (probably following release date order, or the "story" order I heard about).

Thanks for the opportunity for requesting my game! I wish the best of luck for everyone.

I may be going crazy with research, but I've been lurking the past 2-3 weeks, trying to find the perfect keeb. I think I've narrowed it down to a few, but I'll list what I have, what I'm looking at, and what I'm looking for

Currently using a Razer Blackwidow Chroma, they have their razer green switches which are basically Cherry MX Blue clones. I just don't like the CLICK much anymore.

I game often and type occasionally, so a middle ground switch is what I was looking for, so I thought Cherry MX Brown would be best. However it seems like everyone now hates them? I bought a 9 switch tester with Brown and compared them to clear. I can definitely see the tactile difference, but I like the lighter feel to the browns. Just wondering if gaterons are the better brown, even though I see they have a bit of a wobbly feel, and rattling to them.

Here's what I was aiming for and the few I came up with.

• TKL
  
• Light yet tactile response
  
• RGB (Overrated? Maybe, but can be changed to match any new setup)
  
• ~$100 - $140 $USD
  
  The boards I'm probably going to choose from
  
  CoolerMaster MasterKeys Pro S (Cherry MX Brown)
  
  Glorious GMMK TKL (Gateron Brown)
  
  IKBC MF87 RGB LED TKL Double Shot PBT (MX Brown)
  On pre-order but estimated to arrive Oct 10th still. If its worth the $$ I may splurge.
  
  Ducky One 2 RGB TKL RGB LED Double Shot PBT (MX Brown)
  
  
  Let me know what you think about those boards, the switches, or maybe even push me in the right direction. Any help and all opinions would be appreciated. Thanks.
  
  

I like it! However, there are some tweaks you may want to consider (if you want some unsolicited feedback):

1. Can you bring something over the shoulders that the top of the vita could slide into? The ergo grip I am using has them and I love it compared to the other ones. It really helps to keep the console steady. I have other grips that just clip around the sides and the vita constantly pops out.
   
2. I'd love to see you integrate the buttons somehow. Trigger style buttons always seem to be nicer to me than the bumper style that the vita normally has. But that's totally personal preference.
   
   Otherwise, it looks AWESOME and I really love the stand you've included. Definitely great work! I wish I could find a mashup of your grip and the one I'm currently using because they both have things I want :)

i got both too, and my switch pro controller just collects dust. honestly never thought i would prefer a third party controller to a first party one but here we are. so much stuff i play on switch warrants a good d-pad and that $70 pro controller just ain't got it.

another suggestion is that if you have and prefer something like a ps4 controller, you can use that with your switch. these adapters will let you use pretty much any controller with the switch. i used the Mayflash one and it works like a charm. until i got the 8bitdo using a ps4 controller to play Mario Maker 2 was the next best thing.

https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-Magic-NS-Wireless-Controller-Nintendo/dp/B079B5KHWQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=mayflash&qid=1568552050&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Adapter-Nintendo-Switch-Raspberry/dp/B0786JC6VW/ref=pd_cp_147_4?pd_rd_w=BvzBp&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=45RBA7XJDXQ2Y0ZE3NZN&pd_rd_r=e593b97d-6628-4850-adba-e4166120a4fb&pd_rd_wg=WlqTd&pd_rd_i=B0786JC6VW&psc=1&refRID=45RBA7XJDXQ2Y0ZE3NZN

Fighting games have very high learning curves, but they are extremely rewarding.

I suggest PC if you can run it.

I recommend you take a look @ some of these:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nd9sEB6ku14

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AomsfS_8cT8

(part 2 and 3 too)

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCl3W4zpsOmXpqLG1V5faspQ

https://www.youtube.com/user/moonlitearthx14

If you are willing to learn what is shown here, then you should have some fun.

Fightsticks are not neccesary and will not make you good. BUT they are very fun to use and some aspects are easier IMO.

Heres some solid ones with professional parts:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SULMRI4/ref=s9_simh_gw_g63_i2_r?
ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=0TSMZNQ22HDJQMP9QCKM&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2437869742&pf_rd_i=desktop

http://www.amazon.com/Fighter-FightStick-PlayStation4-PlayStation3-playstation-4/dp/B018HXA6H8/ref=sr_1_2?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1458691360&sr=1-2&keywords=alpha

Heres some great guides
https://www.reddit.com/r/StreetFighter/comments/4bif5p/beginner_to_fighting_games_with_some_questions/d19o3vu?context=3

Feel free to ask questions.

These screen protectors and this hand grip work reasonably well as replacement accessories, as the only one made for the GPD XD (that I've found) is the soft case (which is pretty nice). They are not perfect fits, but get the job done.

Also, if you use your HDMI-out (mini-HDMI, not micro-HDMI) you'll want to power the device down, then plug in the cables, then power it back up or you'll have sync issues. You can also close the device while streaming video or games - it won't go to sleep but will turn the device's screen off.

Finally, the apps loaded on the system are all free versions of stuff on Google Play and the preloaded ROM/ISO selection leaves a bit to be desired but is a nice bonus. Anything more powerful than a Dreamcast isn't viable (and even that has performance issues on some titles). Pretty much every Android game I've thrown at it runs well too.

-edit- One last thing - there is no Bluetooth functionality, so have a microUSB adapter (and maybe 4-port hub) handy if you plan to do any multiplayer.

Since you made it a point not to mention your model I will assume you are using a vita slim. The 2 big trigger grips for the vita slim are the following

http://www.play-asia.com/l2r2-button-grip-cover-for-pch-2000-black/13/708qs3

and

www.play-asia.com/remote-play-assist-attachment-for-playstation-vita-slim/13/70a3hf


I have the vita 1000 version of the first one and it's pretty good. I have heard some complaints about build quality when it comes to the shoulder buttons but mine is pretty good. The Hori one I haven't tested but Hori is top notch when it comes to accessories. The Hori one is out of stock on play asia but you can find it on ebay and Amazon Japan (they will ship to the US but it runs about $15)


https://www.amazon.co.jp/【L2-R2、L3-R3ボタン搭載】リモートプレイアシストアタッチメント-PlayStationVita-PCH-2000専用/dp/B01ERA94BY/

If you're just looking for a smaller but still good grip I would check out the PDP Vita slim grip. The vita 1000 version is pretty great but not 100% on the slim version. Might still be worth checking out

I have this grip for my Vita 1000 and it's a good step up but somehow it has made me hit the back panel way more, which in some games is a problem. It's not a bad grip, especially for the price, but if you have a 2000, then I STRONGLY recommend the Hori grip with L2/R2 L3/R3 triggers. It feels better material-wise, it is super comfortable, and the triggers are a great addition especially if you want to try some Remote play.

Honestly, the power supply can be just as important of a part to search about as a processor or a graphics card. A bad power supply can result in coil whine, poor lifespan, poor customer support via the company, or straight-up putting your entire build at risk with its poor internal parts.

As far as keyboards go, I personally love Cooler Master's TKL (tenkeyless) keyboards. I've had the Quickfire Rapid-i for around a year+ now, but they released a new line called MasterKeys Pro S that have RGB lighting and have been getting pretty great reviews (as most CM products do). I can't recommend TKL keyboards enough. Have great build quality and are super compact, which would be a plus for you since you said you were pretty limited on space.

With the money saved in this proposed build, I would suggest upgrading the 1060 to a 6GB model. You'll get better performance and a bit more sauce out of your games.

Most 120hz TV's are really 60hz displays with software that makes it look smoother. Many TV's come with a game mode that disables the software because it adds input lag. Also look out for input lag in TV's. Some brands tend to have a higher input lag but generally Sony, Samsung, LG, and Vizio are pretty good.

I'd definitely pick a 1080p display over a 720p one. Even though a few games like assassins creed unity output at 900p the ps4 will scale it up to 1080p and there is a very noticeable difference between 720p and 1080p.

If you have kids or need to be quiet at night pick up a pair of headphones. They can plug right into your controller and the games audio will go through them. If online will be your thing skip the headphones and pick up a headset. Sony's gold wireless headset is a pretty good one and should be on sale either right now or by Monday. No cooling fans will be necessary but make sure you have a spot set up that gives your ps4 enough room. If you're picking up a second controller consider picking up a charging station that plugs into an outlet. I have the nyko one and it has been great so far but I've also heard really good things about the power A one. If you're not getting a second controller don't worry about buying a dock. I don't own the PS camera or a sound bar/sorround sound system so I can't really help there.

Here's a few TV's that an input lag website recommends for gaming: http://www.displaylag.com/best-hdtvs-gaming-2014-introduction/

Power A charging dock: http://www.amazon.com/DualShock-Controller-Charging-Station-PlayStation-4/dp/B00ENFVJJO

Nyko charging dock: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FLLFJ68/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687582&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00ENFVJJO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1077G5Z0Z1KEJTMSRK8D

Edit: Target has the gold wireless headset for $40. The deal is for in store only.

> Don't by a plane with complicated systems and tricky/unique flight characteristics if you can't fly an F-15 proficiently. The FC3 planes have simplified systems but most have the same level of flight model. The F-15C and Su-27/33 are 3 of the best air to air planes in the game, so you're not at a disadvantage in that regard, if they were full fidelity they'd probably be even better (more radar modes to work with is one that comes to mind), master these then get the mirage

Thanks I think I'll stick with the FC3 planes mainly the F-15C for now, I heard that Mirage is not ransferable between Steam and Standalone so that might be a problem.

Also Can Steam players play with Standalone players?

> Get a proper hotas before going past the FC3 aircraft

So HOTAS X would be insufficient? I did look at the T16kM do I need the throttle combo? or just the stick? since I see there is what looks like a small throttle slide right there

and what do you think about the VKS Gladiator MkII stick? I've been eyeing it for a while (because I like how it looks, but expensive, I'm probably more likely to get T16K M. )

One last thing, Su-27, the engine won't start, I know the Start up sequence is pretty similar for all FC3 planes, I did the same things I do on the F-15C but the Throttle doesn't respond, there is no engine noise the plane just won' start.

MiG29 did respond to the same start up sequence, (battery>cockpit>engine>Nav lights>flaps)

Lian-Li's TU100 case might be perfect for you:

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgNmBePiBaM (Black or Silver)
  
• Black is slick but I prefer the Silver as any minor scratches from moving it around are a little less noticeable.
  
  Here are a few different price points/builds with it. All have:
  
  
• Built in WiFi
  
• GTX 750 Ti - While it's not a beast of a video card it's still better than the Alienware and upgradable later to future efficient cards. It's a solid budget card that won't overheat your tiny computer. The AMD 270X while faster is going to be dumping quite a bit more heat into the case and arguably will need a larger power supply (depending on selected CPU).
  
• It sounds like you have another PC as your primary gaming station. Making a monster 280X/290 video card here redundant and arguably excessive for this secondary setup. - If I'm wrong here and this will be your new primary gaming station then some of the other builds with 280-290 are probably better for you.
  
• Use one of the two RAM slots so you can easily expand later to double the RAM. In the intel setups RAM is also Low voltage and low profile.
  
• Overall focus on low heat and low power usage with an efficient 300W power supply.
  
  --------------------------------------------------
  Quad Core Intel i5 + SSD
  
  
• Overbudget, but better bang for the $$ than the quad core Alienware versions. So worth considering.
  
• Low Power i5 Quad Core CPU. "S" models are great for the small ITX cases due to their lower voltage and heat output.
  

• 256GB SSD with room for 3 more 2.5 drives. or 1 more 2.5" drive and an optical.
  

  
  

  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i5-4570S 2.9GHz Quad-Core Processor | $184.98 @ OutletPC
  Motherboard | ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $73.08 @ Amazon
  Storage | Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $104.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card | $134.99 @ NCIX US
  Case | Lian-Li PC-TU100A Mini ITX Tower Case | $95.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Power Supply | Silverstone 300W 80+ Bronze Certified SFX Power Supply | $43.93 @ NCIX US
  Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $87.99 @ NCIX US
  | Total | $815.94
  
  ---------------------------------------------
  Dual Core Intel i3 + Hybrid Drive
  
  

• Lightly Over Budget. Worth serious consideration.
  

• Hybrid Drive giving some boot up speed advantages of SSD along with storage advantage of typical Hard drive. Not as quick as a full SSD. But a good stepping stone where later you can upgrade to a 512GB SSD for OS and Games without reinstalling. Samsung SSD tools make upgrading to an SSD of the same size simpler the a full reinstall. Plus, keep the hybrid drive around for media.
  

  
  

  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i3-4150 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor | $104.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Motherboard | ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $73.08 @ Amazon
  Storage | Toshiba 500GB 2.5" 5400RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive | $59.99 @ Newegg
  Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card | $134.99 @ NCIX US
  Case | Lian-Li PC-TU100A Mini ITX Tower Case | $95.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Power Supply | Silverstone 300W 80+ Bronze Certified SFX Power Supply | $43.93 @ NCIX US
  Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $87.99 @ NCIX US
  | Total | $690.95
  
  ---------------------------------------
  
  Intel Pentium Dual Core + Hybrid
  
  

• Inexpensive CPU arguably not slower for your target games (Lego) and NES Emulators than an i3. And a few months later you could drop in an i5-4690S (Make sure it's the "S") if you want quad core power for future titles.
  

  
  

  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Pentium G3220 3.0GHz Dual-Core Processor | $52.99 @ NCIX US
  Motherboard | ASRock H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $73.08 @ Amazon
  Storage | Toshiba 500GB 2.5" 5400RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive | $59.99 @ Newegg
  Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card | $134.99 @ NCIX US
  Case | Lian-Li PC-TU100A Mini ITX Tower Case | $95.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Power Supply | Silverstone 300W 80+ Bronze Certified SFX Power Supply | $43.93 @ NCIX US
  Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $87.99 @ NCIX US
  | Total | $638.95
  
  
  
  ---------------------------------------
  
  AMD Athlon X4 740 Quad Core + Hybrid
  
  

• Right at the budget limit.
  

  
  

  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | AMD Athlon X4 740 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $74.97 @ Amazon
  Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-F2A88XN-WIFI Mini ITX FM2+ Motherboard | $92.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Memory | Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $59.09 @ Amazon
  Storage | Toshiba 500GB 2.5" 5400RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive | $59.99 @ Newegg
  Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card | $134.99 @ NCIX US
  Case | Lian-Li PC-TU100A Mini ITX Tower Case | $95.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Power Supply | Silverstone 300W 80+ Bronze Certified SFX Power Supply | $43.93 @ NCIX US
  Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $87.99 @ NCIX US
  | Total | $649.94
  
  -------------------------------
  
  I don't have a wireless 360 controller listed as part of the builds because that's available for sale often. Or available used at gamestops. Many colors available. Some prefer the wired controllers for lack of batteries, too.
  

• Here's the wireless adapter you'd need though. $10 - http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Pc-Gaming-Receiver-Xbox-xbox360/dp/B0076HD2W8/
  
• Also Xbox One Controllers are also an option if you prefer that feel.
  

Depends on your definition of "Break the bank". At the entry level, you're looking at spending about $50 USD.

• The Thrustmaster T-flight HOTAS X - This is entry level HOTAS that goes for $40-50 USD. 12 buttons, an 8-way hat, twist stick, and rudder rocker. This tends to have the "a little short of controls" problem, as Elite has lots of stuff to bind, so you'll likely want to either use the keyboard for more buttons or set up a series of modifiers like this to fit everything on it. The HOTAS One and HOTAS 4 (for the Xbox and PS4, respectively, though both are also PC compatible) are slightly upgraded versions of this stick, with the same exterior, but improved internals tightening the deadzone and making them a bit more precise. They're usually more expensive than the X, but you might catch them on sale for cheaper occasionally. Note that this unit only uses 1 USB port, as the throttle and stick are connected to each other via a cable (about 20" long). This is something to keep in mind if you plan on mounting them to chair arms or something. I personally used this unit previously. It's a perfectly good setup, though I personally found the lack of buttons to be annoying after awhile. Note that the throttle has a detent at 50%, making it nicely suited to full range operation, with the detent separating forward and reverse.
  
• The Thrustmaster Stick X. This unit is basically the above, but without the throttle and the buttons transferred to the stick base along with a throttle slider. Rings in at a little cheaper at about $30 USD.
  
• The Thrustmaster T16000M. This is a refreshed version of the classic T16000M, with minor exterior changes (reshaped hat, reshaped trigger, reshaped throttle, and tactile indicators on the base buttons). It's notable for being one of the rare ambidextrous sticks (you just swap out a couple parts to switch it) Unlike the X (which uses potentiometers), this unit uses contactless hall effect sensors, giving it very smooth motion with excellent precision. 16 buttons (12 of which are on the base), an 8-way hat, twist stick and throttle slider. More buttons available than the X. The stick by itself rings in at about the same price as the HOTAS X at $50 USD.
  
  Moving up, there's the Thrustmaster T16000M FCS HOTAS. This is the above T16000M stick along with Thrustmaster's new TWCS throttle and rings in at $130 USD. Totaling them up, you get 19 buttons, two 8-way hats, two 4-way hats, a two-way switch (very handy for supercruise/hyperjump), an analog stick, throttle slider, rudder rocker, and an analog dial, which is plenty of room for all the stuff you need (note that the throttle has no detent, so you'll probably want to run it forward only with a button assigned to reverse. Though if you're handy, people have come up with modifications to add a detent). This is what I personally use and I quite like it. Note that all the components of this set are available separately and can function independently (each needs its own USB port, so you might want to buy a hub with these). So you could buy the stick today and the throttle next month. Or buy the throttle and some other stick or buy two sticks, or whatever mix and match scheme you like. There's also a matching set of pedals (the TFRP rudder) available if that's your jam.

I recommend a Sony Trinitron if you get a CRT. These sets are the most well-built among tube TVs, which matters a lot when you're looking for a 10-30 year old appliance. Sony also held a patent on the best CRT technology for almost the entire time CRT sets were relevant, so Trinitrons have objectively better picture quality than any competing sets of the day. Make sure you get the remote with the TV in case you need to adjust the picture. 20"-25" is a good size for a multiplayer gaming TV in the corner, but you might want an extra set of hands to help you move anything larger than 24" depending on how far you'll have to carry it.

Also, for $20-$25 online, you can get an S-Video cable for the N64. S-video is a much clearer video signal than the standard yellow-RCA-jack composite video, which is itself just compressed S-video. Here is a comparison between the two. If you decide to get one of these I cannot recommend ANY generic cables since they're almost always terribly cheap and it's a matter of luck whether they will work, so get a Nintendo-brand cable for either composite or S-video.

You can also get replacement N64 joysticks online, (like here or here) some of them arguably superior to the originals. A lot of those Mario Party minigames will kill N64 joysticks, especially OG sticks, which need to be re-lubricated (I recommend white lithium grease) after twenty years of use. There are also plenty of kooky, unorthodox third-party controllers for the N64 which, by virtue of their design, add some challenge to games you thought you were good at.

Sorry for the wall of text, there's just a lot of technical stuff that goes a long way in improving the retro gaming experience, and most of the high-end and cutting-edge stuff of yesterday is obscure knowledge now. S-Video will give you the biggest bang for your buck, and combining that with a compatible Trinitron will get you ~90% of what hundreds of dollars of equipment can do. And that means more games. =)

ANY Tempered Glass screen protector will work well. Personally I have Orzly on my Switch but have used Spigen on phones in the past. Both are top notch and have been doing screen protectors for handheld electronics forever.

..

The Docks Bands can also help ensure the Switch is not coming into contact with the dock, especially if you have younger kids.

..

The other big accessory to consider early on is a hard sided carrying case. Anyone will do. Personally I have the Hori Tough Pouch. Being a step ahead means if for some reason the Switch is leaving the house there is at least a carrying case ready.

..

If you know the Switch will be used on long road trips, etc. a battery pack like Ravpower 26800 PD is also great to have around put is much more optional.

..

In terms of the SD card, I have had my Switch since launch, have about 12 games now and buy physical cartridges when possible. I have still not exceeded the built in memory and needed an SD card. That said if you are buying one only buy from Best Buy or Amazon and if buying make sure you aren't buying from a third part seller. Also look for a UHS-I or UHS-II card (UHS = Ultra high speed). Sandisk and Samsung are two more reputable brands. In terms of size, go with the largest size that doesn't make your wallet scream as this is something you want to buy only once if possible.

you'll want a second controller with a stand-alone charger like this: http://amzn.com/B00ENFVJJO. battery life is super short on PS4 controller and this will help him play if he forgets to charge one controller.

second: you'll want to replace the stock headset with something affordable like this: http://amzn.com/B006PP3ZK6 headset that comes with ps4 is not good. not good at all.

third: give him subscription to PS+. it is a similar service to xbox subscription. it will allow him to play online.


sounds like your kid likes sports games. Playstation has the single best baseball game ever made called "MLB the show" keep an eye out for it. it is very very good game. even many non-sports game players play it.

I have actually done this exact project before, even with NRF24L01+ modules.

Here's a few resources you'll want:
https://code.google.com/p/micro-64-controller/wiki/Protocol
https://github.com/brownan/Gamecube-N64-Controller
http://web.archive.org/web/20151030122223/http://www.eecs.umich.edu/courses/eecs373/Lec/StudentW14/N64%20Controller.pdf

This site used to have a ton of good information, but now it's down. That's where I got my info, but the stuff I gave you above should be enough.

In my controller I had:

• A bare ATmega328p
  
• A replacement N64 joystick, gutted, so I was only using the analog joystick
  
• 400mAh li-ion battery with a 2.5v regulator to power both the ATmega and the NRF24L01+
  
  I took the chip out of the N64 controller and wired all the buttons and the joystick to the ATmega. For power savings, the positive line for the joystick was hooked up to a GPIO pin so I could switch it off. Every 5ms the controller wakes up, reads the buttons and joystick state, transmits it, then goes to sleep again. With some other optimizations, I got the controller to draw less than 1mA while using it. :)
  
  On the receiver side I had a custom board with an STM32 microcontroller, but you can do it with a Teensy 3. No voltage regulator needed, the N64 uses 3.3V for the controllers.
  I recommend using something faster than 16MHz because while you can make it work, you'll need to do a bit of assembly and it's a bit more fiddly. Use a Teensy 3.0 at 72MHz and you'll have much more headroom.
  
  You need to use the links I gave you to re-implement the N64 controller protocol in the Teensy. Every time the N64 requests controller data, just give it the latest info you received from the controller.
  
  I'm not sure how much you know so this might all sound like a bit much! I'll be happy to try to help you but this sort of project will be very difficult if you don't have decent coding skills.

Flying with dual joysticks (and pedals) feels awesome! I got a T16000m FCS plus a T16000m FCS Flight Pack and only use the sticks and the pedal right now

I am gonna configure my setup in a way that I can switch from hosas to hotas when I am not in combat to be able to fly around more relaxed. It should be pretty easy to set up if I play around with the Target software some more.

The first time setting up dual joysticks was pretty tedious. I used TheNOOBIFIER1337's Playlist and the several reddit posts as an inspiration and finally decided to set them up more or less like in this video
To keep my desk uncluttered and my KB/M close I made a setup like this one!. Here are some more Images.

So I use Grip-it's and I like them: Grip-iT Analog Stick Covers, Set of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qtgqyb1SDK855

They're cheap, come in lots of colors, easy to put on, and add grip.

I was recommended to try Kontrol Freaks too. They're a little more expensive, but I hear they are very good.

However, I don't think those will help with your sprint button stopping working. It will help with the wearing off for sure. I'd recommend buying a controller from a store with a warranty and just replacing it as needed. Someone else probably knows what stores offer that on here. Good luck.

If you have homebrew on your wii (or are comfortable modding it in order to do so) and a fairly good gaming pc, you can make this game go from great to masterpiece. Using cleanrip, rip a copy of the game onto a usb drive, and play it with the latest developer version of Dolphin emulator.

You can buy a Dolphin Bar from Mayflash on amazon for $17 to use original wii controllers, or map controls in Dolphin for a regular gamepad (use classic controller setup).

There is an HD texture pack for Xenoblade that makes the visuals in this game absolutely amazing. If you are at all capable, this is the way to play the game.

I used the i7-4790 instead of the 4770 because it's newer and better, with similar pricepoint. I used a locked (non-k) CPU and an h97 chipset motherboard because you said you'd rather not overclock. I used standard 1600MHz DDR3 RAM because the RAM clock difference between 1600MHz and 1866MHz is really not noticeable anyway. For the SSD I used the MX100, which is currently one of the most popular SSDs out there, it's a nice MLC SSD, as opposed to the recently outcasted TLC 840EVOs. For the secondary storage device, I used a 1TB 7,200RPM HDD, which you will use to store all your music/games/etc. The SSD, you will only use to boot your OS and for frequently used applications. As for the case, I used a Define R4 Black Pearl with NO window as you requested. This case has a brushed black aluminum finish on the front panel, with sleek black coating for the rest of the case. It has a swing out front panel so you don't have to see all the 5.25" drive bays and all that stuff. The case also has built-in soundproofing, there are sound dampening foam padding on the most critical sound sinks. It is a bit more expensive than the Corsair 300R, but much better imo. The graphics card I used is an r9 290 with WINDFORCE cooling solution, this cooler is much better than XFX's Double Dissipation. Double Dissipation has trouble dealing with the more strenuous thermal output of the r9 290 series GPUs, WINDFORCE are also clocked higher, and you can switch the vBIOS from quiet to performance mode through the physical switch on the side. I used a SeaSonic 620W fully modular PSU, SeaSonic is the premium brand in power supplies, they're often much more expensive than competitors because they ONLY use high quality Japanese capacitors and their PSUs are the most reliable on the market. You should never skimp on a PSU and use a $30-50 PSU when dealing with $1,000+ builds. It's like driving a Mercedes Benz with standard fuel instead of super. As for the OS, I used W8.1, it uses less system resources than W7, it auto TRIMs SSDs, auto defrags HDDs, has built-in virus protection, and is backwards compatible anyway. Just download "classic shell" and you will have the start menu and W7 feel back, disable side menu swipe in, gestures, and it'll be EXACTLY the same. The monitor is a standards 60Hz 1080p 23" display, the difference between the monitor I chose and the monitor the other guy chose is that this one has an IPS panel, which has greater colour accuracy and the image does not distort when viewed from non 90degree angles. TN panels have higher refresh rates but the further from 90 degrees you look at the display, the more distorted the image gets.

As for the keyboard, I highly recommend the CM Storm QuickFire TK, it has MX Brown switches, and is fully LED backlit. $88.64 + free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-TK-Mechanical/dp/B00A378L10/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410703669&sr=8-1&keywords=cm+quickfire+brown

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor | $289.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $88.98 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $74.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $73.99 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $54.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card | $373.98 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | SeaSonic 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $74.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $99.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | LG 23MP55HQ-P 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $126.00 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1331.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-14 16:27 EDT-0400 |

The DS4 is super comfortable and surprisingly light weight. The analogs feel great and soft, and their movement is very fluent. Triggers feel smooth and stick out more than the DS3 (which felt sunk'ed in), not to mention they have quick respond, because of their shape. Other than that, I advice that you get soft rubber tops for your Analogs, since a lot of people are complaining that they wear off (even tho I have not had the problem, I still bought some just for the long run - here's what I bought, which I HIIIIIIIIIGHLY RECOMMEND http://www.amazon.com/Grip-iT-Analog-Stick-Covers-PlayStation-4/dp/B003NSLGW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394725317&sr=8-1&keywords=Grip-iT).

Congrats and happy gaming!

I've only really had experience with a couple of Hori sticks and the latest Madcatz te, as well as some custom ones I modded. You have a lot more options on PC, but as for quality I'm not really sure. I know there are some Qanba PC sticks for around $80, but I can't vouch for the quality, although the ratings are pretty good on [Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXPIO1S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YWr7wbJ230K0F)

The buttons and stick might not be of the greatest quality, but it's a good start and I assume some of the high ratings come from being [easy to mod] (https://youtu.be/FllbddE4zes) but for that you'd need to buy new buttons and new stick.


If I were in your position, I'd opt for getting something of decent quality now with the intent to mod it later when you really get a feel for using a stick and get your execution down. And if I didn't want to mod, I'd wait a bit longer or mow a couple lawns and opt for a nice [Hori] [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SULMRI4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_y8r7wb9MQ71NQ) or a better quality [Qanba] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SGGLZW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_39r7wb7K0TS7Y)
Either way, there's still a learning curve when switching peripherals so keep that in mind

Here's the thing with ordering these. I ordered from the same amazon listing twice and got a different version of the stick both times.

If you get one with a rubbery tip, you're going to experience the issues he mentioned in his video. Large dead zone, less degrees of freedom, very small area recognized as "slightly" pushing (making it really hard to walk slowly).

But if you get a plasticy one that has "V3" on the bottom, you won't experience those issues. The one I have with "V3" on the bottom has a slightly larger deadzone than the n64, but has all the degrees of freedom. And it's easy to walk slowly with.

The rubber one is still better than a loose stick, so for $11 I think it's a good option.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009MRZAUC

You can also find imitations of the original n64 stick on amazon and ebay (just search n64 replacement stick). Though I imagine you'd run into similar issues.

Personally, I feel the best controller for the n64 is the Hori one. But those are expensive these days.

I have the Cyber Grip in the video and I agree. It's great for games where the L and R buttons aren't used all that often but the way it's formed, it forces my index and middle fingers into odd positions. Would not recommend it for Smash.

The DreamGear Comfort Grip, on the other hand, is probably the best one out there. It's comfortable and gives good access to all buttons and ports. Mine very slightly obstructs the gamecard slot and charging port but because it's silicone, others may fit differently.

If you have the USB model, you can just plug it right in.

If you are wireless, you'll need an adapter like this zetta one.

Fairly cheap, but it is pretty much plug n' play with the Retropie.

Also, I just want to mention, the Pi doesn't have enough power for things like the Wii. N64 games are very hit and miss. Mario Party or Mario Kart work amazingly though. SNES/NES are all amazing, 100% performance. Same with gameboy/color/advanced. I have not tried any Nintendo DS games, but I've heard they run pretty well.

There's tons of consoles on there with a ton of options of games.

I’ve never heard of that controller but 8BitDo is good for a controller with a good d-pad. I would recommend waiting for the SN30 Pro+ to come out because it’ll be much more comfortable than the current SN30 Pro

I have the wired SN30 Pro and it’s d-pad is fantastic. It’s a nice cheaper option

You can also use 8BitDo’s adapter or the MayFlash adapter to use a DS4 controller on the Switch if you already have one

There aren't a lot of cheap HOTAS options. Some things to consider:

• T-Flight HOTAS X is relatively cheap at $50, but has relatively few buttons to work with and mediocre sensors that can make fine aiming difficult. A lot of people use it and are very happy with it though.
  
• T.16000M FCS is the next step up, and although it's fairly new it seems to be getting a pretty good reception. It's over your budget at $129 though.
  
• Dual joysticks is another totally viable and fun way to play, although it may take a bit more work to find a way to control all thrusters that feels natural (some people use twist for forward/reverse, some add rudder pedals, etc). There are obviously lots of possible combinations, one that works for your budget is a T-16000m combined with a Logitech Extreme 3d pro, for $95 combined.
  
  

Similar situation here. My tips:

• Use - as you use it, you'll get better. Crappy answer, but the most realistic one.
  
• Sensitivity Settings - Figure out what you are trying to do. If you have to lower the settings, go for it. If you need to increase it to give you that feeling of mouse/keyboard - then do it. Eventually you'll hone in on what you need your settings to be dependent on the game. Shooters sometimes have a separate down-the-sights sensitivity that can help for headshots.
  
• Controller config - There are usually 4-5 different types of config in the game's settings. For COD BLOPS3, as an example, I found the setting with jump on the L1 trigger, and melee on Circle - since I found I want to aim while jumping, and rarely melee.
  
• Comfort - They sell silicone controller shells, and many (including me) use thumbstick covers or addons (I use these, and love them.) Find what makes you the most comfortable physically (and mentally.)
  
• Aim - You can't move as much on console. Especially in shooters you should have your sights aimed where you mostly need them. In an FPS, run with the reticule around chest/head level, so when you turn a corner, you can start shooting without trying to aim first.
  
• Sounds - many/most pc gamers are used to gaming with a headset on, for FPS especially, hearing footsteps is a huge gamechanger advantage. Get Sony Golds, or Astro A40s if you have a little more money (OR a VSS optical-to-digital box + your favorite seinheiser cans if you have the desire), and go to town.

The Cooler Master Quickfire TK is a great backlit option for less than $100, although it doesn't have macros if you care about that kind of thing.

The keyboard is available in a variety of different mechanical switches, so it might be a bit daunting trying to figure out which one suits you best.

Personally, I find the RED switch perfect for first person shooters, as it's very light (seriously, it requires very little force to press down compared to most membrane switches). It's also not tactile, which means that you can't feel a bump when you press it down. Another thing to note is that, like most other mechanical switches, it actuates before you press it all the way down.

The downside is that you might have some trouble typing with it, as the light weight could cause you to mistype. You also might not be sure if you pressed a key down enough for it to be actuated, as there's no bump or click sound to confirm it. Of course, this is something that I have gotten used to over about a week or so, but it can be very strange at first.

Here is a great overview of the other switches.

I can certainly say that mechanical keyboards have improved my typing, but I'm not so sure about gaming. To me, mechanical keyboards are more about comfort. The solid build quality, precision and consistency of the switches just feels more natural to me, which is enough for me to justify spending $150+ on a keyboard, but that might not be true for other people.

EDIT: Spelling.

I'm assuming you're a US citizen, but... dood,

• Playstation TV: https://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-TV/dp/B00KVMHSUM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487863174&sr=8-1&keywords=playstation+tv
  
• Disgaea 3 Vita: https://www.amazon.com/Disgaea-3-Absence-Detention-PlayStation-Vita/dp/B006FRMVIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487863200&sr=8-1&keywords=disgaea+3+vita (there's a patch that makes it PSTV compatible)
  
• Disgaea 4 Vita: https://www.amazon.com/Disgaea-4-Promise-Revisited-PlayStation-Vita/dp/B00M9EZMN0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487863200&sr=8-2&keywords=disgaea+4+vita
  
  I know it's extra expense, but $110 (plus any applicable sales tax for your state) ain't half bad.
  
  PSTV works with PS3+4 controllers afaict (it works with mine but mine's fully patched!), so... you should be good to go.
  
  Other than that... Disgaea 3 was a decent game, Disgaea 4 is FAR superior to it. Get D4 before / instead of D3 if budget's a concern.
  
  That and you can pick up Disgaea 1 Afternoon of Darkness PSP version and Disgaea 2 PSP for it too... :p guess what I've got on my Vita? :D
  
  Disgaea 5 beats both of them on convenience of the game's systems etc. It's really well done. So get Disgaea 5 to go with your new PS4, and then think about the Vita versions of the prior games, maybe :)
  
  EDIT: $31 for the Triple Play: https://www.amazon.com/Disgaea-Triple-Play-Collection-PlayStation/dp/B011L4CFB0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487863466&sr=8-1&keywords=disgaea+collection - so a cheap PS3 might be a good way to go if you can get that!
  
  PS3 is also a blu-ray player so if you're the kind who needs a blu-ray player for a second room, ... there's a convenient excuse for you :D

Oh hey, I own that joystick! It's old and has huge problems with y-axis, but it was a trusty joystick.

Anyway, depending on how well you can touch type, you could even use KB/M.

I run dual stick - the attack 3 in left hand for thrusters, and in my right a t16000m, works great. (though my t16000m is green/grey, older version, the new one looks like it would be easier to use in VR, and is ED colored). You could also try buying the throttle and using your old joystick

Your mileage may vary due to your connection speed but overall its a pretty decent experience on the vita. I've been running PS remote play on my vita, PC, and phone on a 100mbps/20mbps connection with only occasional hiccups at 720p streaming.

The biggest issue is the controls are a little tough as the l2 and r2 buttons are digital, so some weapons are harder than others to combo for sure. It's not comfortable for long sessions. Also the screen can be a touch hard to read in menus. I played MHFU on the PSP though and I'd still say that was harder to play control wise hah.

I'm looking at picking up one of these as they seem to have great reviews (there's a model for the 1000 as well).

I love me some cake!

Happy cake day, friend!


If I win, this would be awesome!

Thanks for the contest!

I'm using Dolphin Emulator there's tutorials on there, but honestly it's pretty much install and go, it's really easy.

I already had a Wiimote from my Nintendo Wii, I bought a secondhand Motion Plus add on so that I could play some of the newer games that need it and also bought the Mayflash Dolphin Bar which connects to PC, acts as a Bluetooth adapter and also works as a sensor bar for the Wiimote. It interfaces perfectly with Dolphin and has various modes.

There are videos of the Pokemon game online if you want to check it out. If you played the Gameboy games, it looks a lot like those but with realistic graphics. And apparently you can now see the wild Pokemon hiding in the grass so that you can somewhat avoid them (that was the worst part about the original games).

Screen protector--someone mentioned the amfilm one. While they're close, I chose the Orzly tempered glass after reading a bunch of research and reviews. It's a decent percentage thinner and supposedly has a better coating. But they're the top 2 from what I read. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9RG3XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_C9qaCbYQN7X1N

Protective case-- I chose the Mumba heavy duty case, though they make a few kinds. I plan to eventually get the Mumba carrying case as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZRM6C1?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

As for other games, people already mentioned many but I just want to second getting Zelda. It's pretty much the sole reason I got the console. That and Mario Odyssey, which are the top 2 rated games in the last few years (out of any console) on many sites. They're also pretty high on the top games of all time on any system on metacritic--which compiles reviews from top sources rather than just 1 reviewer. This is there best all time switch games list:
https://www.metacritic.com/browse/games/score/metascore/all/switch/filtered

Metacritic all games list:
https://www.metacritic.com/browse/games/score/metascore/all/all/filtered

Ultimately, it's going to be a matter of taste. What sounds like the most fun to you? That's the question I asked myself a few years ago when the original Arena Commander module released. I decided the answer to that was dual stick, so I got myself a cheap left handed joystick and tried it. Turns out I love it! If immersion is what you're looking for, joysticks certainly deliver, at least in my experience. But I've been playing with joysticks for two decades now so I'm familiar with adjusting to odd control schemes. You may not want to invest that time, effort, and money.

​

If you do decide to try it out, however, there are a lot of cheap options that will give you a taste of what you're looking for without breaking the bank. I used the Extreme 3D pro joystick before upgrading recently, and it was a good option for only $30. Link HERE. There's also the T16000M which is fully ambidextrous for $60. I used it to test dual stick flight. Link HERE. And you may find them cheaper used. You can always upgrade later if it turns out you really like the setup, which is what I did.

​

If all you want to do is run cargo and explore, though, any options will be fine. If you think you'll be happy with mouse and keyboard, don't sweat it! I like decoupled flight and combat so having that additional control over my thrusters is nice and immersive, but that's my situation, not yours.

​

Again, ask yourself honestly what sounds like fun and go from there. If mouse and keyboard seems sufficient to you, there's no point in spending money. No amount of advice from other people can top that.

My reply is certainly going to reak of "sony apologist/asshole". That is not my intention.

Your biggest problem with the DS4 is the battery life, and even though you play it 3 hours a day (based on your post) you can't be bothered to do something extremely easy to fix it? Charging the controller is easy to do man, just plug the thing in...how hard is that? It takes you less time to plug the controller in than it does for the PS4 to turn on!

In all seriousness I do agree with you on finding plugging things into the stupid cables every single time you touch them to be annoying. You know those memes about "I plugged in the usb cable...and it was facing the right way on the first try....winning!" That is a real thing. But why? Back in the day the only device commonly found in the house that was used every day that had a rechargeable battery was our home phone. These always had a desktop cradle charger. Can you imagine a cordless phone where you had to charge it by plugging it with a cord all the time? And let's not forget how shitty those nicad batteries were...I kid you not, there are people who made their fortune on selling those stupid things in a retail store, having to be replaced every 6 weeks, people buying the wrong ones, or heaven forbid if you had the audacity to not follow the impossible charge/discharge practices they recommended.

Thankfully, battery technology really improved, but unfortunately the GOOD thing about that era (the cradle charger) went the way of the dinosaur and for some reason (profit) companies stopped including them.

The cradle charger suddenly became a "premium" ie: overpriced accessory. I remember the last cellphone I purchased that came with a cradle charger. This was over 10 years ago, in the era before phones even had color screens.

What I'm trying to say here is a cradle charger is the way to go, and there are multiple options for PS4. Here are just a few:

This is the one I personally have. It works great! I have 3 controllers, and it comes with 2 of the little attachments that go on the controller to charge it. Nyko sent me another 2 for free when I asked them.

http://www.amazon.com/Nyko-Charge-Base-PlayStation-4/dp/B00FLLFJ68/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422371016&sr=8-2&keywords=ps4+charger

This is another very popular one, it is very commonly recommended on reddit. It doesn't require any adapters to be connected to the DS4 since it uses the extension port to charge.

http://www.amazon.com/DualShock-Controller-Charging-Station-PlayStation-4/dp/B00ENFVJJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422371016&sr=8-1&keywords=ps4+charger&pebp=1422371073104&peasin=B00ENFVJJO

There are other options, but most of the other options work by the charger physically plugging in to the micro-usb port on the top of the controller and hanging from it, which seems problematic to me. The 1990's style cradle is where it's at! The Nyko one is the closest thing to that style. And no, the little adapters that let it dock do NOT interfere with the operation at all, it's very small and you don't even know it is connected. Because everyone asks this (completely unnecessarily, as every lithium ion based charger behaves this way) yes, it will automatically stop charging the controller when the battery is fully charged.

There's even another style that connects directly to the PS4, if you are wanting to keep the controllers near the PS4 itself. Although personally, I think it makes much more sense for the controllers to be stored where they are used...ya know, on the couch. But I literally have not touched my PS4 since I purchased it, since I am (obviously) one of those people who only buy digital games, because damn, why should I have to swap a disc just because I want to play a different game?

http://www.amazon.com/Nyko-Modular-Charge-Station-White-PlayStation/dp/B00MUTASR4/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1422371016&sr=8-13&keywords=ps4+charger

Why did I post all of this, especially with the assholery beginning? Because so many people just love to complain about every little thing they don't like, when there are a multitude of products available to make all their woes go away. Even if the DS4 had 24 hours of battery life, if they wanted to not buy a charger for it, they'd still be messing with that stupid USB charging cord eventually...which is a crime against humanity.

Spent $20, and you can be a smug asshole who is much happier in life, thanks to having one less usb cord to have to plug in.

(PS: If your phone supports wireless charging, buy a few of those chargers for your cellphone...and if it doesn't, make sure your next cellphone does!) The only time I plug my phone into ANYTHING is when I flash a new rom to it. Charging is as simple as setting it down on the charger, it synchronizes data (such as music/pictures) over wifi, and earphones are bluetooth. They call it a wireless phone...right?

Modern consumer electronics used without wires...will make you a happier person. Your thinning hair will grow back, your penis will become longer, your belly fat will get smaller, you will get a promotion at work without even asking for it, your children will do their chores without complaining, your mortgage company will approve your refinance, and you will get the bonus onion ring every time you purchase french fries.
Comcast will still give you shitty service...but hey, this new way of life can't work miracles or anything.

Those extra 2 buttons are for all punches and all kicks. You don't actually need them, as you can press all three buttons at once instead, but if you find that difficult to do, those buttons are useful for that.
You can also map other things to those buttons, like throws or whatever, if you want.

Honestly, learning to play with just 6 buttons from the get-go is pretty neat.

My only gripe with that stick is the size and weight of it. You'll want it to rest firmly on your lap/desk when you play. It should never ever move when you do sudden inputs.

I have this arcade stick, and the only gripe I had with that was the Kuro buttons on it, which I have switched out with Sanwa buttons. I recommend it, but know that it will take you a while to get used to a stick. You'll suck for days if not weeks.

This post is adorable. I like the enthusiasm. I'm glad you enjoyed the game.

Anyways

>I dont really understand why he killed Miyamoto or Saki, was it just for fun??

Yeah, Adachi flat says he did it cause he was bored. Adachi is basically a man child who cries because his life didn't go the way he wanted it. And he got pissy about it. He's an egotistical dick. And I think that makes him a great villain.

> I was thinking either Arena or Dancing All Night, but I don't have a vita so is it worth getting a vita for Dancing All Night?

Or,or,or...here's a crazy idea...(whispers) Play Persona1-3.

But to answer your question. Yes it is worth getting a PlayStation TV in order to play Dancing All Night. Seriously don't buy a Vita just for it. A PSTV is the much better and cheaper option. It's basically a Vita that you can plug into your TV. It can play Vita carts and works with every numbered Persona game and Dancing All Night. Regaurding Arena. Just buy Ultimax it has DLC that covers the orignal Arena story for 10 bucks. So there really is no reason to buy vanilla Arena.

> I didnt really like the ending that much

Did you get the true ending? If so. I guess P4G has more definitive closure if you seek it. Since it expand on the ending a bit.

Some "higher end" links for you:

• Ch Throttle -- IMO still the best throttle until VKB/Virpil
  
• MFG Crosswind
  
• VKB
  
• Virpil - great dual stick options here. I liked VKB just a tad more, like the additional button more on VKB. But Virpil has other things going for it too. Like better service!
  
• X56 Lotitech - make sure its the latest version, not saitek crap ... even re-branded saitek to logitech. Logitech recently released an update. QA is a huge issue with X56 range.
  
  Don't use this for E:D Warthog that is my 2c worth. Its maybe looks all metal but has some plastic internals and really is not for space flight sims. Allot of people bitch about the nipple on the throttle. So just my opinion that you should not look at it.
  
  On the lower end:
  
  
• Thrustmaster T 16000 etc. I have no experience with it. But people like it.
  
• X360 controllers etc. some people love it.
  
• Mouse and Keybaord -- PvP players swear by it!
  
  Happy stick hunting, fly safe CMDR o7!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

No third party controllers, but you could try getting either new thumbsticks (Xbox One thumbsticks fit perfectly), or you could get a thumbstick cover.

Ive used GelTabz before and liked them. They add a good amount of gel thickness that should make clicking the joystick more pleasant.

Grip-It thumbstick covers are also considered very good.

I just expect better design from a company as big as Nintendo. Especially when I see 3rd party DIY docks that look like This. Now that imo has a much more practical design that won't scratch the switch and honestly just looks prettier and more professional than the shit they gave us. I would gladly pay the 60 if the original looked anything like that.

Everyone else so far have been suggesting alternative ways to go about this, but if you want to go with your original set up you need one more piece of a equipment.

You'll need a USB Wii bar which you can from Amazon. I like dolphins one which you can find here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mayflash-W010-Dolphin-Bar-Wireless-x/dp/B00HZWEB74

You'll need some sort of PowerPoint macro to show each winner and then you'll probably need to use Autohotkey to convert the input from your remotes into a signal for your macro.

If this sounds too much that's fine. If you'd like to know more let me know and I'll see if I can help.

As far as prices on the Amazon US go:

The Hori Fighting Commander 4 has universally positive reviews, is compatible with PS4, and now it's discounted to $30.

The Qanba Q1 is a very good budget choice for sticks, costs $80, proprietary but good quality parts (can be modded later), and is compatible with PS4 SFV in legacy mode.

For higher-end, there is the Hori RAP 4 for $150, PS4 compatibility, quality Hori stick and buttons, pretty much the best you can get ($200 on MadCatz TE2 is not worth)

Or you could try the used route, I bet there are many people selling their old but good sticks on eBay because of PS4.

So, I'm going to be trying to get into the game and having been looking into picking up a Hori Real Arcade Pro (Unless there's a better choice around that price range). I'm going to be playing on PC and was just wondering how setting that up with the drivers and everything will be. I'm really excited to be joining the SF community, I've always watched with interest from the Smash Bros side of venues and figured now would be a good time to bridge the gap and try it out! I'm also lucky to have a few friends who are willing to teach me the game and hopefully be practice partners as I learn the ins-and-outs of true 2D fighters.

A copy of what i sent to one user, but my recommendation still stands:

If you end up buying a joystick one day, I strongly urge you to look for Thrustmaster 16000, or for something with the equivalent of Thrustmaster's HALL effect. It really IS really-really nice. Because with whatever game you end up playing, you may end up using only a few buttons, but the joystick part of it will always be there, so THAT'S what you want to be top notch.

And I may be repeating myself, but that HALL effect is what they use in the pretty much highest end Warthog Joysticks and HOTAS, ones that go for $300+, so even though the buttons and the build itself of the 16000 is the same as of the other joysticks in the 30-50$, the action part of its is way above it's level.

Here's an Amazon link to the pre-order of the new version of the joystick by itself:

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-VG-T16000M-FCS-Joystick-Black/dp/B01MQEDEEW/ref=sr_1_10?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1479623136&sr=1-10&keywords=thrustmaster+joystick

Persona 4 Golden has some added Social Links, some new features like a vegetable garden (basically letting you grow items that you can't usually purchase), some additional characters and story events for said characters, additional Personas, new explorable areas of the overworld, a bonus dungeon, new music, costumes that you can wear to affect a character's appearance only, more playable days if you're on track for the true ending, various QoL adjustments to the battle system, and a special epilogue.

It sounds like a lot, and it kinda is, but don't let it put you off P4 Vanilla if Golden represents a bigger financial investment for you. The vast majority of the game is mostly the same. If you're really looking to play Golden and don't have a Vita, I recommend the PS TV, which has near-complete Vita functionality for only $40 (and the Vita has plenty of good games, mind you. May I also recommend Danganronpa: Trigger Happy Havoc?). Golden is also only about $20.

dreamGEAR Comfort Grip for your Old Nintendo 3DS XL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XHCLFO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Here’s the one I had gotten; it’s two parts, but I found myself only using the bottom/grip half. And while it definitely helped, I almost feel like a 3D printed grip would be better.

I can’t think of the name of the product right now, but there’s this cool two-part rubber agent that’s moldable momentarily but then eventually hardens. I put some on a wiimote and nunchuck grips and basically molded my hand, which made gameplay super comfy.

Lots would recommend Mario Party. I've not played the new one but the previous ones were all very fun. Do note that it does require a pair of the joy-con controllers for each player due to special demands in some of the mini games.

You are a PlayStation guy, so instead of buying an expensive pro controller you can buy an adapter like this. I bought one for $20 and it lets me pair other Bluetooth controllers like the X-Box, Wii U, and PlayStation ones. Could save you money and give you something to use that you are more familiar with.

I personally got very comfortable with the Wii U Pro Controller playing Smash 4 and I love it, so I got this adapter to use it with my Switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079B5KHWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G1A4BbW5657MD

It works seamlessly, so if you have a Wii U Pro Controller, that adapter will help keep it useful for the Switch. Keep in mind that there isn’t amiibo or motion control functionality. I don’t think the rumble works either and the first player light will always be lit. Overall I still think it’s better than most third party options.

This adapter also allows you to connect most wireless controllers too like Xbox and PlayStation ones.

On a side note, my set up will be one Switch Pro Controller, one Wii U Pro Controller, one wireless PowerA GameCube style Pro Controller, one wired GameCube controller, one WaveBird, and keeping my JoyCons as spares.

In your case, no. You don't lose out on a thing.

Some good TKL boards, all are RGB but all come in single color variants if you prefer:

-K65 LUX/Rapidfire RGB (If you like Cherry reds): Amazon

-Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro S (This one has MX Browns but I'm sure you can get it in other switches): Amazon

-Razer Blackwidow (X) Chroma TE (If you like cherry blues, both are on the same page): Amazon

-Logitech G410 (Romer-G is a love it or hate it switch): Amazon

Your best bet is the Cooler Master imo, but all of them are good. There are also cheaper boards out there, of course.

First, the query "n64 controller tight stick" on eBay tends to find original controllers for $20-30. I've bought two controllers advertised in this fashion, and both felt like they'd never been used.

I'm also keeping up on SteelSticks64. (site) (twitter)
They're in the process of making joysticks out of steel with the intention of emulating the original feel. They'll likely be quite pricey, but should function as a permanent replacement. I'm also checking in regularly to this project, which is looking to make injection-molded copies of the original parts.

Lastly, you can buy an aftermarket joystick. This Gamecube-style joystick is quite nice. I've got it in one of my controllers now, and while it's not quite the same, it's very nice. I've found most games to not play any different with it, and I'm happy not worrying about grinding the stick down any more.

dreamGEAR Comfort Grip

I just bought this one, and it's great for my giant hands. I haven't tested it with Smash Bros yet, but it's awesome for Mario Kart 7 and Kingdom Hearts. Hope this helps!

If you get one make sure to get these grips for it, so much more comfortable to play on.

I like it for light solo missions, bounty farming, etc. It is excellent for mobile casual play. I prefer to stick to my PS4 and dualshock for major missions (Nightfall, Weekly Heroic, VoG where things get really intense) and PVP.

Don't. Get this instead: http://www.amazon.com/DualShock-Controller-Charging-Station-PlayStation-4/dp/B00ENFVJJO

I have this, and as I and all the other positive reviewers can attest to; it's great. Looks good, performs well, super affordable, and is the best rated.

I only play one "Vita" game on my Vita, and that's Persona 4 Golden. The rest of my use on my Vita is the remote play when I'm at work, in bed, or the kids wanna use the television. 100% worth it for me. I have no obvious input lag I ever run into. It's great.

EDIT: Here are two accessories I bought for my Vita, due to my large hands I felt these were necessary. If you've ever felt like your hands were too cramped using a Vita, look into these.

HORI "Remote Play Assist" Case I bought this before I realized you cannot change controller layout when using remote play. Many game devs put the extra buttons (like L2/R2 L3/R3) on the stupid touch screen, and you're stuck with it. The gray buttons this case adds only touches the back of the Vita. It did save my butt on games like Uncharted and Last of Us. Plus it makes the handheld thicker and has palm grips. So even if you don't use the triggers much, it's a great feel.

Analog Stick High Covers Again for my big hands, the low profile sticks wasn't cutting it for me. I did find after a month I had to take off the Right Stick cover cause it was too tall and hitting X would often push the stick down. The Left Stick cover is PERFECT for me.

What do you think of this? It's the cookie cutter board recommended by the community for a number of reasons. Mainly, it's great quality, allows for customization, and although expensive, is super solid. I know it's at the top of your budget. You could also get a cheap set of PBT shine through keycaps on aliexpress like this.

This is another great, solid option. It has even better keycaps and is super flashy. You will have no problem expanding on either of these if you so choose to later.

They've seem to have gone up in price a little, but fish around eBay or Amazon for them because its lifespan has been over for awhile now. I've seen them go from ~$100-$150 used without any extras. Keep in mind you may have to shell out extra for memory cards and chargers, though buying a game cartridge rather than a digital download saves a lot more space. Still recommended to get an 4 or 8 GB chip though.

And they do cost more, but a PSTV is also a great investment depending on your tastes. Its not as portable as the Vita, but you get full screen support for TVs and you can play it with a PS3/4 controller.

eBay

Amazon

Both are good choices and allows you to access almost every game in the series (minus P3FES, Q, Q2, the fighting games, and 5. Maybe one of the P2s also). You'll get your moneys worth if you want to get deeper into the series or explore the Vita's vast JRPG library.

i haven't personally got a sd card for mine but my advice go for as big as you can afford, i would recommend the orzly screen protectors really good quality https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01N9RG3XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


personally i dont really take my switch outside so never bothered with any cases but I would recommend picking up a LAN adapter if you plan on playing any online games like splatoon, not sure about everyone else's but the signal strength on my switch, unless I'm in the room with the router, its pants. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MYTSN18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I recommend Tales of Hearts R. I really enjoyed that game, although it was my first Tales Of game. Simple, but interesting story, and I loved the characters.

I use my Paypal to add money to my account, and then delete the information, lol. You could always buy a PSN card from Amazon to avoid using your card directly. Plus it is sent directly to your email in a matter of minutes.

I use a basic strap like this one. Cheap and I've had mine for almost a year, I brought in bulk and I'm still on my first one. It doesn't fray at all.

honestly, if anyone owns a PS4 or Xbox One controller and often plays their Switch in Docked mode, please...just buy a Mayflash adapter. It is by far more affordable and you can use it wirelessly via bluetooth. It's the quite honestly the best alternative you have to getting an inexpensive controller that's bluetooth without having to buy a whole other controller. It doesn't support more than one controller synced at a time unfortunately, but hey you're at least guaranteed co-op and the rest of your friends can just bring a pro controller or joy con of their own. I switch between PS4 and Xbox controllers depending on which I feel like using and it works fine with either.

I like Hori products. Get a soft case like this one to help prevent scratches. Please note, it is soft plastic, and if you keep stretching when you put it on/off, the back piece may get loose.

https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Duraflexi-Clear-Protector-Nintendo-NEW/dp/B00RZ7TC6Y

Screen protectors are a must! Do NOT get matte/anti-glare ones, get HD clear. The anti-glare ones (just like anti-glare phone ones), have a lot of little dots to help block light. This can sometimes mess with the 3d, or otherwise make the screen look grainy. I used the ones that came with this butterfox kit, but I'm sure there are better ones out there. Better cases out there, but very good price for what came with it.

https://www.amazon.com/ButterFox-Accessory-Case-Nintendo-Console/dp/B008NA9F6O

I'm looking for a stick to play UMvC3 and SFV on PC. This mayflash stick is pretty cheap and is the amazon recommended one, but my buddies who play the games recommend this hori one. I've used the xbox/pc version of the stick that my buds recommend and I really like it, but I want to know if it's worth it. Any suggestions?

Tempered glass screen protector and a nice case are must haves.

I use a Hori Tough Pouch and an Orzly Tempered glass screen protector. I would also recommend thumbgrips, the one on the switch are a bit slippery and it'll prevent wear and tear as well like this. I use Skill & Co. Skin set.

I haven't gotten the pro controller because I spend most of my switch time on the transit and the grip has been okay for home. My friends have all said it's a must have, I'm just waiting for a sale to grab it.

Because you've played botw already, I say get the controller. Better yet, get another game on your list instead! I'd recommend a multiplayer game so you can use the switch for what it's meant for.

1. There is a 4GB included with the system and it fills up almost instantly. If you want to go digital then you will need to get a bigger MicroSD. NOTE: Anything larger than 32GB must be formatted to FAT32 before use. You can find a How-To guide in this Subreddits Wiki page.
   
   
   
2. Yes, it will be on the MicroSD; You can however create a Nintendo Network ID and link the game to it and then when you insert a new SD card you will be able to just download the game again.
   
   
   
3. I am unsure if you will be able to buy it now without a NNID
   
   
   
4. You have to create an online Nintendo account and then Link your Nintendo Network ID to that account in order to purchase games online. Yes you create the NNID on the console itself and then link the NNID to the online account.
   
   
5. I recommend Screen Protectors as the stylus that came with my N3DSXL scratched my bottom screen. But it might be different for you. I recommend either a Hori TPU clear case that will protect the 3DS from scratches. Or you can get a Hard Cover that just clips onto the system. I got this Gudetama one for my Black N3DSXL. There are many other designs on amazon, play-asia.com etc.
   
   You can also look into decals that you stick on your 3DS from Decalgirl.com as these also protect the system from scratches.
   
   So it is really up to personal preference
   

If you want another dock, buy the original one and a small case for it on amazon.

Usually the issues with usb-c are thanks to the cable. If you want to play it safe, buy one that Benson Leung recommends.

I usually use my ZMI QB820 Power bank with a Veckle USB-C (Benson Leung gave it 4 stars, he decreased a star because when he reviewed it the cable was unbranded. Mine came branded.) with my docked switch without any issues.

So either buy anything related to USB-C from Nintendo, research what you want to buy (reviews, etc) or play it safe buying anything with a good review from Benson Leung.

I don't have a Vita, but I did pick up the playstation tv device over a year ago when I heard that it played Vita games. The great thing about it is that if you have playstation plus for your ps4/3 then you can get a free vita game each month as well and just play them on this mini console.

https://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-TV-vita/dp/B00KVMHSUM?th=1

Nice. One of the good things with the T16000M is that it's reversible- so if you want the option of dual sticks you can get a matching one and use it with your left hand instead of the throttle.

This offer is probably the best value hotas you can buy at the moment. The quality is excellent if you don't mind a plastic stick.

Good luck. The currently state of things is that most people avoid any 3rd party docks like the plague since Nintendo didn't follow the USB 3.1 standard exactly, and because of this it was not an uncommon occurrence for a 3rd party dock to end up frying the Nintendo Switch.

Your best bet would be to get an official Nintendo Switch dock, disassemble to remove all plastic so that you have just the circuit board, and put that board into a more portable form factor. Something like: https://www.amazon.com/BASSTOP-Portable-Replacement-Nintendo-Original/dp/B071YVC3NJ/ref=asc_df_B071YVC3NJ

​

EDIT:I did purchase Best Buy's Isginia third party dock and use it regularly. It does the job. I've used it for about 5 months now and my Switch is still working.You do occasionally have to completely unplug the thing to reset it, as it will occasionally not recognize the Switch is being docked. But since it is primarily for portability, it likely will be unplugged often anyway.

I got the PDP grip and totally recommend it. It's very hard to find and I only managed to get one off of eBay.

It adds just enough grip to the Vita to make it easier to hold for long periods of time but it's very thin and weights practically nothing. Very solid build, and fits perfectly (doesn't budge or anything). The grips are ok. Nothing outstanding, but work well and are pretty responsive.

All in all, I'm pretty happy with it. A pain in the ass to find one outside of the US, but other than that...

Okay. The VITA is actually better for Remote Play than the app you run on Mac/PC in terms of connectivity. I've been places where the VITA connects to my PS4 no problem, but the program on my Macbook Pro deems the connection too weak.

The complaint most have about using the VITA for remote play is the controls. For reasons I cannot understand, the joysticks cannot be pushed as R3 and L3, so those buttons end up on the front bottom corners of the touch screen. Meanwhile, R2 and L2 are the touch pad on the bottom, which are very hard to control. So, if you do go this route, you may want to purchase THIS

25 down and 5 up is adequate on the VITA's end most of the time, but you should definitely have the PS4 receiving a better upload speed. I started getting noticeably more stable remote play connections only after upgrading my Comcast to 10mbps upload and hardwiring the console.

When my Macbook does connect to my PS4 Pro, the quality is 1080p, which looks amazing on the 15" screen. If you can get this to work, go with it. The image quality combined with being able to use a DS4...awesome!

Uh yeah. I got it from amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008XHCLFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's pretty poor quality, I hear there are better 1s but it is rubbery and soft and fits in my hand so it works good for me. : )

I also have a spring cord stylist. I kinda went crazy on my 3ds haha. But it's ok. Probably totally worth it in the long run. : )

Use this case every single time I play remote play and I absolutely love it BUT there is a better one: https://www.amazon.com/buttons-mounted-Remote-attachment-PlayStationVita-PCH-2000/dp/B01ERA94BY

This one has support for L3/R3 compatibility as well. Both are extremely comfortable, but I will say even with the 2000 model the one you posted can get pretty heavy over time. I think it's weighted a bit off, but that being said, I played a majority of my playthrough of Nier using the case you posted and it worked flawlessly. That game requires a lot of R2 mashing and it never skipped a beat.

I have a Steam Controller and an Xbox 360 controller. My girlfriend and I played though Lego Marvel Superheroes, the Lego Harry Potters and some of Jurassic World with two different controllers. So if you want to mix and match, you're totally able to.

If you have any controllers laying around, see if you can find an adapter for them.

• PS2 controller adapter
  
  
• There's a PS4 controller adapter
  
  
• Xbox 360 controller adapter
  
  
• Xbox One S controller works through bluetooth if you PC has that or you can use a bluetooth USB adapter
  
  
• Xbox One (non-S) controller adapter if you have older Xbox One controllers
  
  
• Steam Controller is my favorite, takes a little tweaking if you want to get full use of it. If you don't care and just want Plug n Play, it works just like any Xbox controller with a touchpad that works better than a joystick IMO.
  
  
• or any number of off brand controllers for PC should work fine.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

The best option is generally agreed to be to just gut your original Dock and put its components into a shell. About as small as a pair of Joy Cons side by side, still gives you access to all the ports, surprisingly easy to get done with the right instructions, and removes the risk and annoyance of scratching and overheating with the original dock. Also, and this is just a personal thing, I like the far better customization options with it and the fact it displays my Switch a lot more prominently. Sure you lose the signature look, but I think it better represents just what the Switch really is and the power of the tablet itself. Bottom link is the one I used since July and I haven't regretted it since. Top one offers more air flow and probably is worth the extra 2 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Portable-Replacement-Requires-Original-Electronics/dp/B0746QJZC6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519597009&sr=8-2&keywords=switch+dock+shell
https://www.amazon.com/BASSTOP-Portable-Nintendo-Replacement-original/dp/B071YVC3NJ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519597009&sr=8-3&keywords=switch+dock+shell

PSN might reject your credit card if it's foreign. If it does, you might be able to get around it by creating a US PayPal account & inputting a random US address as your "residence", but make sure the billing address is correct & uses your Russia address. Otherwise, you can buy PSN gift cards from Amazon US, just again pretend like you're located in the US. You'll have excess credit if you go the gift card route, though.

I'm looking for a keyboard to replace my beloved Zippy WK-730 that I'm using at work. It's going on three years old now and starting to feel a little mushy.

I like the size of it; it doesn't take up too much space on my desk. I use a slim wrist rest with it, so I'm not married to the depth of it (although I really like how thin it is, aesthetically, I guess it's actually a hindrance to function).

After doing some cursory research, it would appear I have two choices in the mechanical keyboard space: Cherry MX Clear/Brown or Topre switches.

I'm pretty much looking at the CM Storm TK with Cherry Brown switches or the Topre Type Heaven.

I like my Zippy, other than the mushiness, and I use a wired Apple board at home. Should I even be considering these two mechboards or should I be barking up a different tree?

Has anyone here moved from a nice scissor like the Zippy or Apple slim keyboards to a mechanical and absolutely loved it? Conversely, has anyone made the jump and regretted it?

PowerA Charging Station - 2 controllers, not little kid friendly, as it has a spring to load/unload the controller and kids will just pull it off. If the spring is in the incorrect position, it can be difficult to put the controller on charge.

Collective Minds PSVR Stand and Charging Station - 2 controllers, 2 move controllers, and 1 USB slot for headset or PSVR AIM controller.

PlayStation Platinum Headset - Went through 2 PS Gold headsets due to weak plastic frame. Platinums feel more sturdy. Haven't used too much to test durability. Great sound, but I am not an audiophobe.

PSVR AIM Controller - Got it bundled with Firewatch. Read that it felt good in hands. I thought it felt a little awkward, but definitely easy enough to use. Just have to get used to the button layout.

AC Infinity Fans - These are 80mm fans. It comes with 2 fans in parallel that are powered over USB. I don't use my PS4's USBs, because those are taken up with other accessories, so I have it attached to my surround sound receiver. One fan pulling air from the back of the Pro, and the other directing the fan out of the shelf area. I recommend these, as I've noticed the spin up on my Pro has significantly went down.

honestly, I recommend these

you get 4 in a pack (so enough for 2 controllers or just for yours and you have a spare set)

it took a while to get on right, basically they have to be perfect or they rub the sides while using the sticks and you get resistance but now that I got them on right it's very nice, and seems to be protecting the thumb sticks.

best part is the price, after shipping mine were $9, keeping in mind it comes with a spare set of covers.

I know this isn't exactly what you want, but IMO it's worth getting them even if the controllers seem to be fixed.

>I am currently having difficulty getting in to trails in the sky. I think it is mainly due to me being spoiled by most games working out of the box with the PS4 controller and I am stuck with point and click mouse controls (which aren't actually that bad).

Didn't know there are problems with controller compatibility. If you are OK with spending a bit of additional money, there are adapters for all sorts of controllers by the Taiwanese company Brook that (even though designed to connect a DS4 to a PS2 for instance) also work on PC. That's the one I'm using on my PC (though primarily bought for my PS2). I've tested SC and 3rd with it and it works like a charm. Since they have internal Bluetooth they instantly connect to your controller wirelessly. I can also recommend the PS3 to PS4 adapter by the same company. Here a link to their hompage. All adapter models seem to work on PC as well. I'd just recommend buying the adapter for the specific console you would like to use a DS4 (or DS3) on and use the PC compatibility as a bonus.

Edit: For some reason the Switch one doesn't have Bluetooth though. For that I recommend the Mayflash which should also work on PC like the Brook adapters (haven't tested PC functionality, I may test it when I get back from work today if you want, since I use one of these on my Switch). That one has Bluetooth.

I know it doesn't fix your problem but I picked up this dock and I love it

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ENFVJJO/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?pc_redir=T1

It just plugs into any wall outlet. Plus it looks nice enough that I can leave it on the entertainment center and not worry about hiding the controllers. You can even "rest" the controllers on top without clicking them in to charge.

Assuming you're in your place of dwelling and not on the go, the PSTV. First it has native support for DS3/4 gamepads and supports L2/R2, L3/R3, and vibration for PS 1/2/3/4 games. Second it's 720p as opposed to 544p so your games will look better. You can also whitelist it to enable all games playable assuming they don't require the camera or microphone. There is also a plugin that allows for sixaxis support. All PSTV's have 1gb of internal storage and come with firmware less than 3.60 and you can manually update from there with a usb. You can then either use the offline installer after installing HENkaku for the first time or reinstalling it later as the webkit exploit is only temporary. You can also upgrade to the pre-hacked HENkaku Enso 3.65 but beware that not all custom apps and plugins are supported by it yet.

If you only want it as a handheld then get the Vita 2000 (Slim) as it fixes many of the Vita 1000 (Fat)'s flaws. It has 1gb of internal storage and a 16gb ps vita memory card (the PS TV supports vita memory cards btw) will last you over 50 physical games. It has over an hour of extra battery life and a PACK IN non-proprietary micro-usb charger. It's more ergonomic, slimmer and lighter but just as durable. The only real advantages that the vita fat has are the fact that you can replace the back touch panel, and that it has an OLED screen. The former can be mitigated with a carbon fiber skin and the latter will burn in or burn out eventually.

If you want remote play and custom firmware you will need ps4relink as even though you can sign into psn with firmware and PSN spoofing no PS Vita below 3.67 can be "activated" (i.e. legitimized) due to a change in protocol on Sony's end. One more thing, TheFLOW has successfully hacked OFW 3.67 and is releasing it at then end of this year/early next year anticipating the Vita's end of life. So if you have the patience I'd wait for that option since you can activate your PS Vita.

EDIT: Made revisions to grammar and spelling.

EDIT 2: Made further corrections.

It's been a while since I played darkest dungeon but I remember the back touchscreen being very hard to use in that game. Was really fun.

Q2 though, i'm just wondering what people think is the best model out there so I can buy one. I can find some on amazon like this but this is a pretty niche product. I'm basically asking in case something is out there I might miss is much better than something like what I find.

HORI PS Vita 2000 L2/R2 L3/R3 Remote Play Assist Attachment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ERA94BY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_lxQ4CbSB2C5ME

best thing i ever imported. makes playing ps1 games perfect

most n64 games work best when NOT mapping the c buttons to a second stick, so you want more buttons

I hope so too. They make many great points in this video too.

personally i think that Playstation has put a large quantity of their resources into streaming, and as soon as they fix the prices they will be the best option in this field. My only problem with it is that we know they will not offer PS4 games on PSNow(although i cant really blame them because that would essentially make the PS4 obsolete) and so as soon as i get my fill of past gen games i will probably unsubscribe.

The thing that i think is being overlooked about this whole streaming situation is the potential the Playstation TV. The potential it shows is huge, yet i never find anyone talking about it. It is a PS Vita that connects to the TV, so you can play Vita games on the TV, it can Remote Play the PS4 and those PS4 games fantastically, and it can also access PSNow. So what you have in the PSTV is a Vita, PS4(provided one is owned and near the PSTV), and it can be a PS1, 2, and 3 all through PSNow. Realle the pomise for the device is really strong.

Oh, and the main reason i want the PS4 streaming part is for the fact that the PS4 can be in one room(for example and office in the basement), and you can stream it's games to the PSTV which can be is, say, the living room. So if you have friends over who want to play PS4 but you dont want to have to move it, just use the PSTV! Also, Sometimes guests might want to play an old game, so you can use the PSTV for that too. Hell, the regular Vita can be remote play the PS4 from an entirely different network, so instead of taking the whole PS4 and shit over to a friends house, you can just take along the little PSTV and have the whole PS4 there. Boom!

Additionally, PSNow is going to work on Sony Bravia TV's, and some other devices as well in the future(here's hoping for phones and tablets as well(where you can connect a controller and use the device as a monitor))

Well, if you want to get into fighting games, Skullgirls has a great tutorial that teaches you the fundamentals of fighting games in general. Definitely one of my favourite fighting games.

Ultra Street Fighter IV is really good in Endless Battle. I don't play Ranked because I've had bad experience with the net code but aside from that, game is really really solid and it gets my recommendation.

I don't play Killer Instinct as I lack the console but everyone's saying that it is phenomenal, so it might be something to look into.

Maybe you should play with a pad for a little while to see if youre comfortable with it or not. If you feel that you really need a fightstick, then you could buy the Hori Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai since it's pretty cheap and Hori makes good fightsticks.

I have both the Nyko Power Grip and the PDP Trigger Grip and I really like them both. I've found the Nyko is just a little more comfortable for me and I love the extra battery life but having the extended triggers on the PDP grip is useful at times. Either grip is definitely better than no grip. I'm a girl but 6ft and apparently my hands are just too large to play without them.

EDIT: The Nyko Power grip can be picked up in the wild for cheaper than that amazon link. I just put it up for reference. If you don't care about the extra battery life also check out the CTA Grip.

I have the version of this with no backlighting... but it sounds like you want that: Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro S

You’ll never get people to agree on here, but I really like this board. Cherry switches, solid heavy backplate, braided removable cable, simple clean aesthetic.

Edit: also, welcome!!!!

First, sorry for my shortcutting on the joystick. I was referring to the Thrustmaster T16000M. Same idea, basically, other than I am less interested in the full SIM, and am more likely to go with a HOSAS rather than HOTAS experience. As a side, I have a passionate interest in peripheral interfaces overall. I worked with a rehabilitation center in a Kinesiology College at a University, and I helped with the IT for laboratories which were using video game technology to combine with engineering to help people with disabilities. That included everything from people with MS interacting with Ocular Rift, to wheelchair rehab, etc. So I really geek out on ultra high dpi controls.

You did answer my question on that I would need an expansion for planetary landings and buggy exploration. That is a thing I like about the game's potential. I watched some videos by ObsidianAnt and they did interest me.

I think for me to subscribe, realizing that I'll have to spend some cash to do what I want and face some grindy elements, I'll basically see if I can find some social interaction that makes it worth my while.

I personally have an Orzly tempered glass screen protector, but these are mostly useful against scratches; Nintendo opted for a plastic screen which can scratch very easily, whereas glass is more prone to cracking (I have heard that plastic won't do this as easily). Tempered glass, as the wikipedia article states that when broken, because of the way it is manufactured it will 'crumble into small granular chunks instead of splintering into jagged shards as plate glass (a.k.a. annealed glass) does. The granular chunks are less likely to cause injury.' This should, therefore, protect the screen, and the worst case scenario isn't dangerous.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Screen-Protector-Nintendo-Switch-Tempered-2x-TRANSPARENT-Glass-Protectors/dp/B01N9RG3XS/

For something to protect it when in use, I have no personal experience. However, both my travel case and screen protector are from Orzly, and they appear very high quality, the screen protector had a very helpful tutorial video on youtube regarding application, and a few days after ordering I got a helpful email with tips for application. Because of this, I am inclined to believe they have high standards, so I am not surprised that their grip case is Amazon's choice for "Nintendo Switch grip". The description mentions impact resistance, and it has very positive reviews and several questions answered. Because of this, I highly suggest you have a look at the Amazon page yourself.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ORZLY®-Comfort-Grip-Nintendo-Switch/dp/B077V57CVV/

Edit: both links work if you change '.uk' for 'm', if you are in the US

The Sony Gold Wireless Headset. It's amazing. One of the best headsets out there for the PS4. Make sure to download the companion app from the PSN Store. I believe the black set is $80. The white set still sells for $100. But watch for this item to appear on Amazon's Warehouse page. I got the whites refurbished for $85. They match my white PS4 nicely.

I use this controller charger. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ENFVJJO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Works really well. Both of my controllers are always ready for me.

The PSTV is a micro console that plays Vita games. It's compatible with a lot of the vita games, but not all. Persona 4 Golden is the first game I played on my PSTV when I got it. It was amazing.

It retails for around $60-$70 USD

I'm glad you mentioned PS4. I think there is some sort of sync feature, and I just got a PS4 not too long ago. I need to look into that.

A couple of downsides to the PSTV is that it is not compatible with the entire Vita library, and you are locked down to using Sony's proprietary vita memory cards instead of a standard SD memory card like the 3DS.

If you can squeeze ~$116, here's a superb option.


Otherwise, a hair below $100 is this, again an excellent option.


I believe CM are planning on releasing the TKL model with just white LEDs, which I imagine would be cheaper than the Masterkeys M, so you could wait for that if you wanted.


Overall they're both great options, incredibly solid, standard layouts, good looking etc.


Edit: They also, both come in Cherry MX blue/red/brown variants, an MX green version is also very possible in the future.

I use the Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS and also got a second Warthog Stick for a dual stick setup.

http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/accessories/apd/a9168831?cid=309562&st=&gclid=CLWYqP6dk9QCFR1LDQodiiAAFw&lid=5848362&VEN1=s7nLQ1cQ4,183457792450,901pdb6671,m,,A9168831&VEN2=,&dgc=ST&DGSeg=DHS&acd=1230980731501410&VEN3=812403894302130950

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CBVHJ00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IJXkzbZ5X9RT3

I also use the VKB Rudder Pedals.

http://store-x-plane-org.3dcartstores.com/VKB-T-Rudder-Pedals-MkIV_p_571.html

As for matching sticks, I am waiting to get the VIRPIL grips since they fit on the Warthog bases.

https://virpil.com/en/filtered/gpips/


-------- || -------- || --------

Alternatively, you can go with two VKB Gunfighter bases and wait for VKB SIM to release their newer right handed and left handed grips (which you can purchase later).

https://vkbcontrollers.com/?product=vkb-sim-gunfighter-base-only

Or perhaps two VKB Gladiator Pros for now and update both grips or just the left grip later when they eventually release:

https://vkbcontrollers.com/?product=vkb-gladiator

-------- || -------- || --------

Another way to go about it is getting two T16000 sticks (for a dual stick setup):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQEDEEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8UXkzbM4P2BW7

-------- || -------- || --------

Or just go with the T16000 HOTAS (with or without pedals):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KCHPRXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PVXkzbAW6TM7K

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PII6YI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yWXkzb0KK7FTK

-------- || -------- || --------

Now although there are other options, like the Saitek products (X52, X55/X56) and CH products, those just aren't my cup of tea and too many problems plague the Saitek products that they don't seem to be worth investing in. I returned mine and got the Warthog setup and it's so much better. Night and day difference.

I hope I have listed enough choices at different price points to help you make a more informed decision.

And YES, DUAL STICKS are the best :D

Yes that's unfortunately true, but it's not exclusive to NBA 2K lol, it'll happen in any game with a lot of intense stick movement. I've taken like 5 controllers total to exchange at target, until I finally bought some grip covers (Here). It works like a charm I must say and don't have to worry about it anymore.

It still sucks that it happen, however at least Sony has acknowledged it

[edit]: So the trick I did (i think this only works if your ps4 controller is in good condition besides the thumbsticks) is bought a controller at target and just put the old controller in the new package, and went and exchanged it for a new one. You can even get a full refund I believe if you don't want the extra controller. Obviously don't be obvious about it, do this in the span of a week or so. Not in all the same day. And you don't have to either, just use the new one and return the old one in a few days saying the new one ripped. Or exchange.

Also don't forget to get some gripit thumbstick covers.
Also you might want to double check if you can get the full refund, I'm not 100% sure.

Haven't tried that one but I have this: [DreamGEAR Nintendo 3DS XL Comfort Grip] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008XHCLFO/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and it's fantastic. My hands used to get cramped after long periods but this took care of that issue. Added bonus it protects the 3DS too.

I bought the galaxy version, and I got the hori protector: https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Duraflexi-Clear-Protector-Nintendo-NEW/dp/B00RZ7TC6Y

but honestly, even before I bought that I wasn't having any problems, but I'm also very anal about wiping down my ds every 5 minutes with a microfiber lens cloth.

same as anything, treat it right and it will treat you right :)

Great stuff man. Love the details and feedback. One more question though. You talked about doing a GameCube joystick mod, and you talked a bit about the joystick. What is your review of the joystick that came with the 8bitdo controller? Can it be replaced by one of those high quality replacement sticks for the n64 controllers $12 on Amazon

I'm looking at doing something like that combo as a gift for my brolo el coñado.

Qanba Obsidian

• Currently on sale on their main website.
  
  HORI Fighting Edge
  
  Razer Panthera Evo
  
  Hori Rap 4 Kai
  
  The 'Hori Rap 4 Kai' used to be the most popular until the 'Qanba Obsidian' came along. From what I've seen, the Qanba Obsidian is the most popular stick right now. The 'Razer Panthera Evo' is an updated version of the 'Razer Panthera' and it's a solid stick from what I've read.
  
  Personally, I'm looking to get the 'Hori Fighting Edge' next because the button layout got me curious and the aluminum panel seems really nice.
  
  
  
  I have the Qanba Obsidian and Hori Rap 4 Kai so I can speak a little about those.
  
  >Qanba Obsidian
  
  Quite big in size and heavy. Definitely sturdy. Lots of room to rest your arms on. Custom art work replacement is easy. Same goes for replacing the buttons. The miscellaneous buttons up top are a little too small and fat fingering a button happens sometimes.
  
  >Hori Rap 4 Kai
  
  The size and weight lean towards average. It'll rest on your lap nicely and not feel overbearing. Custom art work replacement requires a little work because the default artwork has strong adhesive binding it to the steel plate inside. Replacing buttons is no problem. Miscellaneous buttons are on the right side underneath the right wing. You can also rebind buttons.

Well, $40 is the bare minimum.

The Logitech Extreme 3D Pro is an entry-level twist stick. A lot of folks will recommend the Thrustmaster T.16000M, which is a notable step up with better sensors, but clocks in at about twice the price.

For super cheap headtracking, you're looking at using FaceTrackNoIR or opentrack and bashing together your own point tracker. The camera will run you about ten bucks, and the LEDs, wires and battery pack a buck or two, plus some time to assemble everything.

If you throw more money at it, you can either go for TrackHat or TrackIR, with TrackIR being something of the gold standard, but also commensurately expensive.

I'd recommend starting off with a cheap stick, a webcam, and facetrack. If you get bit by the bug, build your own point tracker to improve your head tracking quality, and look into getting rudder pedals, followed by upgrading your stick.

HORI also makes a Duraflexi TPU case for the n3DS for what it's worth (which is also clear, but textured on the inside giving it an ever so slightly cloudy appearance), not just screen protectors.

And if you're the kind of person who is into pouches, this Monster Hunter 4 Ultimate pouch is pretty awesome I think.

While gmessad's recommendation is great, I would say the Steam Controller is a super solid choice too. If you can wait a bit, GameStop and Amazon have deals on them pretty often. If you have basically any existing PC gamepads you'll be fine while you wait.

If you don't mind used (my controller has been indestructible the year and a half I've had it), Amazon has a used one with Prime for $35 https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Controller-SteamOS/dp/B016KBVBCS?th=1

Hey guys! So I'm looking for a mechanical keyboard that'll be used primarily for gaming on a new blue themed build. I feel like cherry red switches would probably be the best, but every keyboard I find that has cherry reds has a red trim.
I'm looking to:

Spend less than 150

Buy directly from amazon.com, as in " ships and sold by amazon.com"

Have a backlight feature on the keyboard

I don't particularly care about the number pad, or anything besides it having a blue backlight feature and being relatively well built. I was thinking of this keyboard: http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-TK-Mechanical/dp/B00A378L10/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1398117074&sr=1-2&keywords=backlit+mechanical+keyboard

I'd love to here some opinions. Thanks guys!

> Also, how does remote play work exactly? If my PS4 is on and connected to WiFi and I'm away from home, say at a friend's house and connected to their WiFi with my Vita, can I still use remote play? Basically, I want to play Persona while my friends take forever with their turns during our Dungeons and Dragons campaign... ;)


More or less. The internet at your home (where your PS4 is) and where you are at (with your vita) needs to be fast enough.

Since Persona doesn't have much "fast reaction" it's a perfect game for it (I've logged a handful of hours on it from my vita, though usually just from other rooms in my house), as even if there are hiccups they won't result in instant death.

One thing to note is that the vita doesn't have L2, R2, L3, and R3, (which don't matter much for Persona as you don't need fast reaction for those buttons) and instead requires you to tap on the back touch screen to activate these buttons. You can get a plastic case thing which adds these buttons (via levers and such) and also adds some nice contouring for adult sized hands: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ERA94BY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd also recommend some stick extenders, personally: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XXSONHM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Have you tested remote play over the internet yet? Some people don't realize the upload speed required. (at least 2mb/s upload is OK, 5mb/s is recommended i guess)

To run you press the down arrow ..

Otherwise - I use mine all the time.. and honestly the only issue is with aiming. The analog sticks are not nearly as good as the dualshock 4. I added a grip to mine shortly after I got it which helps and there are some analog grips you can try that might help.

grip - http://www.amazon.com/PSVita-Trigger-Grips-Sony-PS-Vita/dp/B0072A4JVW

analog stick pads - http://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Control-Controller-Joystick-Playstation-Vita/dp/B00G3TV6Q4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421277829&sr=8-1&keywords=ps+vita+analog+stick

Also the sound can get out of sync pretty easy..

So, I've never actually tried Steam link. I have a TV mounted to the wall above my computer desk, so I usually just hook the PC up to the TV directly with an HDMI. It looks great, though.

If you're looking for a more console-ish experience, though, I can confirm that my brother has had great luck running my homemade version of the ROM (I ripped the ISO directly onto my PSP from my US region UMD, extracted it to the PC, and applied the WoTL Skill Slowdown Fix PPF) on a soft-modded PSTV (essentially the guts of a Vita with a TV-out) and it works perfectly.

Grab a Hori Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai -
https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Real-Arcade-Pro-Kai-PlayStation/dp/B00SULMRI4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485751635&sr=8-1&keywords=hori+arcade+stick

Compatible with PS3 / PS4 / PC. Should be around ~$220 delivered. The only difference between this and a (far more expensive) MadCatz stick is it uses Hori's 'Hayabusa' buttons/stick, which feel slightly different to the Sanwa buttons/stick used by MadCatz. Purists will tell you 'Sanwa or nothing', but I can tell you honestly from 7 years of playing SF4 using Sanwa sticks to using this Hori stick for SF5, the difference is negligible. The good thing is you can easily swap the stick and buttons out for Sanwa parts if you really, really must have a Sanwa setup.

Would recommend 100%.

Speaking from experience just head to your local video game store (one thats sells used stuff) then buy the best three used nintendo brand controllers they have. Just check to make sure all the buttons are good the sticks don't matter at this point.

Now hit up amazon and look for these http://www.amazon.com/Redesigned-REPLACEMENT-Joystick-Controller-Thumbstick/dp/B009MRZAUC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369407445&sr=8-1&keywords=n64+joystick

These joysticks are not like the ones that come with the nintendo controllers they don't have the ball joint at the bottom that wears out. Look at these other sticks for comparison. http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Joystick/dp/B000F7V2GO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369407445&sr=8-2&keywords=n64+joystick

You can see how they are different. The joysticks are easy to swap out and you will not wear them out unlike the traditional joysticks. You will always have "tight sticks"

Hope this helps you out man.

What? I also have a Deathstalker. It's shit.

I'm finally leaving the membrane world as my custom WASD V2 mechanical keyboard is coming in the mail :)

EDIT: I just realized this comment seems a little harsh. If you like it, that's fine, but I'm just a little salty that I spent like 80 bucks on this thing last year before I knew about mechanical keyboards, when I could've spent like [10 BUCKS MORE! :'(] (http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-TK-Mechanical/dp/B00A378L10/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1410196376&sr=8-7&keywords=cm+storm+quickfire+ultimate) and gotten a pretty good mech.

TKL is cheaper, takes up less desk space, and most importantly, provides better ergonomics. Full size keyboards induce either wrist strain or shoulder strain in right handed mouse users.

CM Masterkeys Pro S is a fantastic price right now. A Ganss GS87 is pretty nice and has PBT caps. A Ducky One TKL PBT is a solid choice.

for those interested in a more simple solution if you have just ps4, xbox360, controllers etc.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079B5KHWQ

​

This product can wirelessly or wired connect just about every single first party (and quite a few third party) controllers I've tried to switch, pc, ps3. has modes for emulating xbox controller on pc and can sync pro controllers ps3 controllers and ps4 controllers alike. Not a shill just making sure people know theres an easier way to use controllers with the switch, been using this for about 4 months and have loved it

I have heard that depending on which brand and production run you can get a wide variety on the quality of the Insten type grips.

I have the PDP grip (https://www.amazon.com/PSVita-Trigger-Grips-Sony-PS-Vita/dp/B0072A4JVW) too. It certainly holds the vita secure but over time I grew to like the trigger action less and less. I came to believe that the trigger action felt a tad sloppy and it didn't necessarily recognize each trigger pull. I tried using the Vita with and without the triggers during Killzone and I noticed I just performed better using the Vita's natural shoulder buttons. Still believe it come down to preference.

Possibly the only grip I haven't purchased is the one that adds buttons. I would love to try one of the Hori L2/R2 grips but they are so expensive ($80) I doubt I will ever get one.

No idea, but you can try Sony's web store and see if it works that way. You may have to use a proxy or have your sister do it from the US, but from my experience it works pretty well. I'm not buying TLoU digitally so I can't say for sure if it's a common problem, but I hope that helps.

EDIT: Another possible solution is to buy a few of these, enter the codes, and preorder with credit.

I recently got this one, it's pretty good for only $5 ish. If you look around on ebay you can find this one for $5 from the US, if that's closer to you.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plastic-Hand-Grip-Holder-Gaming-Case-Handle-Stand-for-Nintendo-3DS-LL-XL-/330846367332?pt=Video_Games_Accessories&hash=item4d07faee64

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4C_UQ_jRaGU

EDIT: This one I saw looked pretty good, just wierd too, but I heard it was comfortable, just more expensive than I wanted to pay:

http://www.amazon.com/DreamGEAR-Nintendo-3DS-XL-Comfort-Grip/dp/B008XHCLFO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1365824056&sr=8-1&keywords=comfort+grip+3ds+xl

Here's a review of it, I think maybe the first one might be better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsKfXrc_FZg

A 4k monitor alone is going to cost 300-1000$ and the hardware needed to run it is going to cost ~1k - 3k.

I made this a few days ago, but it should server you well

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $189.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $74.99 @ NCIX US
Memory | G.Skill Value Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1333 Memory YOU CAN ALSO DOWNGRADE to 8gb and be fine for %90 of games | $63.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $45.88 @ OutletPC
Power Supply | Corsair Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $19.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | $89.88 @ OutletPC
Other| Case - Zalman T5| $35.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $549.72
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $519.72
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-05 22:23 EST-0500 |

for a case, I had a zalmand t5 because it was on sale, but a case is a case is a case, so simply look at the form factor of your motherboard (mini-ITX, Micro-ATX, or ATX) and find a case you think looks good and will fit your motherboard.

for a GPU get a r7 360 or commit to PC gaming, sell your console and spend 150-200$ on a r9 380 or 380x which will let you run 1440p monitors.

PS: check out http://www.amazon.com/Steam-Controller-SteamOS/dp/B016KBVBCS

RIGHT. I had to order an adaptor just so I could use my Wiimote with my PC. Would have loved to just my Xbone controller like I can do for the gamecube titles. Luckily the adaptor is literally perfect without lag, so in the long run it was worth it.

It's actually funny, as I had bought one when they first launched. Played the Uncharted game... and that was about it. Well, until Destiny that is. I've logged a ton of hours of Destiny on my Vita. My girlfriend isn't to fond of gaming, and me sitting in front of the TV in another room all night. So I usually will end my night running strikes or farming for materials laying in bed while shes watching some reality shows or something lol. Totally worth it. Although, you will want to get one of these for it. hope this helps. (make sure you buy the right set of triggers for your model. This link is to the ones for the original PS VITA.

I'm getting a New 3DS XL for X-mas so I was in the same boat as you, on google/reddit/amazon/youtube I was looking to see what I should get. Here's what I ultimately decided on:

• HORI Duraflexi Clear Protector - this seems really popular here. Clear and still offers some protection.
  
  
• SanDisk Ultra 32GB microSDHC - more memory :)
  
  
• Tomee New 3DS XL Stylus Pen Set - extra styluses (styli?). May be a good choice for your little ones if they are prone to losing things.
  
  
• DS Lite, DSi and DSi XL Official Nintendo Touch Stylus - more "pen sized" stylus. Saw these somewhere and immediately bought them.
  
  
• Technoskin - All In One Travel Carrying Case - did a lot of youtubing on cases. This is the one I landed on.
  
  
• Assecure pro red 18 in 1 game cartridge holder - Saw the Club Nintendo style case in a youtube video. This looks like the closest thing to it.
  
  And of course charger, usb charger, and a plethora of games.
  
  Edit: Typos 'n stuff.

I've gone through tons of peripherals. I think I'm finally happy with what I have now. I'd prioratize mouse and headset before anything else. Just make sure you get a mouse with a good sensor and hand fit.

Mouse - G900

Keyboard - CM STORM QF

Headphones - Audio Technica ATH-700

Mouse Mat - XXL Soft

Mic - Snowball

Very necessary. The screen is plastic and scratches very, very easily. See this video for more - https://youtu.be/XJP6gERPmMk

I bought the Orzly one, was like 6 bucks and you can't even tell it's on there - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9RG3XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_386qXP2SPLs3o

The amFilm one is supposed to be good too.

Make sure to use the shower/tape hinge technique, described in one of the answers for the amFilm one on amazon. Worked great for me.

Yes they did, a great one so far I have tried now. Here is the amazon page.

So far I am really liking it and just got around to playing with the firmware which is a very easy to use one so far :D

First off, if you plug your switch into a dock, the screen on the Switch itself will go black. What you would want to do to charge a switch in tabletop is to get a good stand that has a space for the charger to fit in, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9RTMWS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KBJSCb4AE5SKY

Second, if you DO want a portable dock, I’d recommend taking an official dock and putting it into a smaller shell, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YVC3NJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6CJSCbJRHEK9W
It’s a fairly straightforward and easy process - I don’t have much engineering know-how and it took me a half-hour max.

Here is a timeline of the equipment I had in the past, during my B-line focus on funding my PC

​

May 2015: My first time getting a graphics card, which could run classic Doom extremely well, and allowed me to play Minecraft and some very light Skyrim, as shown

​

May 2016: My grandfather gave me his old Intel i3-550 PC and I got a used GTX 580 for $50. This is the first time I got to run some decent games. The Witcher 3 played at 30 fps on my 720 TV, which I captured footage of using FRAPS in August

​

December 2016: By then, a friend at work gave me his workstation PC, which had an FX-6200 in it. I slapped an RX 470 in the thing, replaced the CPU with an FX-8350, and had bought a bunch of new equipment, giving the old stuff to my roommate as shown. The monitor in the photo is actually my current tertiary display. This was also the first time I had premium peripherals: the G502 Spectrum and the CM MasterKeys Pro S. I went with a wireless headset: Turtle Beach Stealth 450

​

October 2017: Upgrade to the G910

​

January 2018: New secondary monitor, G440 mouse pad and G933 headset

​

May 2018: Best Buy had an open box PC and ultrawide monitor on sale. It's a Ryzen 5 system with an RX 580 in it. I also got a new keyboard, the G513. I had been struggling after being kicked out of my parent's house at this point, spending a couple months with my grandparents for food and shelter.

​

July 2018: Got my own place and mounted the old monitor

​

August 2018: Just style (and there's a G533 upgrade sneaking in the top-right corner)

​

September 2018: An old friend returns, looking sharper than ever

​

October 2018: Another ultrawide! 1440p this time

​

[some time in between]: I upgraded my GPU to the 1080Ti (used) and got a Ryzen 7 2700X just before getting my tax refund

​

February 2019: Glorious new speakers (G560)

​

March 2019: Rising desk!

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May 2019: The mouse arrives and I mount my very first monitor next to my new ones

If you get fed up with that like I did, there's a few adapters you could get that would make this process super easy.

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I like this one from 8bitdo. Plug it in the pc, hit thee sync button on the adapter, then on the controller, and it will now be connected and seen as an Xbox controller. Works with PS3, PS4, Wii U, Switch, and Xbox Controllers (the bluetooth ones). This also lets you hook up all those controllers to a Nintendo Switch.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Adapter-Nintendo-Switch-Raspberry/dp/B0786JC6VW/

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Mayflash also masks basically the same thing as that 8bitdo adapter. It has extra quirks like setting the mode on the adapter for the device you've plugged it into. A cool bonus for this device is you can use it with a modded Wii U. I use a Switch Pro Controller on my Wii U with this

https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-Magic-NS-Wireless-Controller-Nintendo/dp/B079B5KHWQ/

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Mayflash also makes another device that's literally just for Wii U Pro controllers to PC and nothing else. Connects the controller as an Xbox or direct input controller.

https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-Wireless-Wii-Controller-Adapter/dp/B00E6553PW/

It's actually one of those cheap N64 replacement sticks you can find all over Ebay and Amazon.

Emphasis on "cheap". They look and feel nice, but the pots conversion is total trash and you get some hefty input lag.

But programming your own chip is a great alternative that will work perfectly. Gonna cost you quite a bit more than 10 cents though, that's for sure.

I kinda gave up on this because it's such a pain. Two options:

1. Get a usb adapter. Works very well, but the caveat is you'll be emulating another type of controller (xinput), so no unique features of the switch (read: gyro)
   
2. Plug it in. If you're primarily interested in using steam, the controller will be recognized as a switch controller with no effort so you can use the gyro. Added bonus: when you unplug it, it will remain synced to your switch.
   
   Not exactly what you were looking for I know, but I figured I'd just pop in with some alternatives. Good luck!

I'd go with this if they are tourney legal. Not sure on it, but my friend bought 4 of these and 4 used original controllers and they are the best I've ever used.