Reddit mentions: The best video projectors

These projectors are all LED based instead of your standard bulb based projector.

LED Projectors:

• Aren't that bright (brightness = 'lumens') and just aren't good outside under very controlled conditions like under a gazebo projecting onto a dark wall. The less light, the better, especially for LED projectors.
  
• Colors may not be as vivid, as sharp/crisp looking as some bulb-based projectors but LED projectors are still good.
  
• Cheaper LED projectors don't usually have a lot of controls to set things up. They have an options menu like all other projectors but they don't have a lot of 'features'. They're very plug and play, which can be good and bad.
  
• Are much more portable and lighter than bulb-based projectors.
  
• Are a big bang for buck, you don't have to replace bulbs like you do in bulb projectors which are $80-$300 (they last for roughly 3,500-7,000 hours).
  
• Their picture doesn't really get 'dim' over time like bulb based projectors do.
  
• LED projectors will last for 20,000 to 30,000 hours but when they die then they are just done, similar to that of a TV.
  
  The brand is AAXA which isn't the worst and isn't the best. The majority of their projectors are smaller but have pretty good build quality from what I've seen. I can't really judge on the quality apart from the specifications (480p, 720p, lumens, etc) or looking at picture/video reviews. So, if you're interested, you can go looking through youtube or searching for it on Projector Central. :)
  
  AAXA LED Pico. Seems great for what it is and can project up to a 60" image, but the very, very low lumens means it's going to be in a dark room 1000% of the time. Has quite a few ports for such a small projector. Much better than many of the $100 no name chinese projectors you see on Amazon that are 480p SD (Standard Definition) or less because this one is 540p HD (weird res, but that's ok).
  
  AAXA P3-X. Looks like a better version of the LED Pico above, can project up to an 80" image, more lumens but still needs to be in a completely dark room to see anything, more battery life, more ports for different devices.
  
  AAXA P5. The best and most expensive of the three. It's 720p HD, can project up to 100", still needs to be in a very light controlled room because it's only 300 lumens, you get the idea. The only problem with this guy is that he's better than the 480p projectors but he's not as good as some of the $500-$600, 1080P HD bulb based projectors. So, he has a lot of competition from things like the LG PH300, the bulb-based Acer H5380BD and other used/refurbished projectors.
  
  Anyways, hope this helped. Feel free to ask questions, I know this was a little long-winded but I try to reply to posts like I'd reply to close friends and family. Even if you're only spending $150 on the LED PICO projector, I'd want you to get your moneys worth. :)
  

If you can order from IKEA, or have one nearby, I highly recommend you check them out for most of your furniture needs. You hear all the time that people hate IKEA, and how cheap their furniture feels, but I think that might be because people don't know how to take care of their furniture. You have to know the limits.

DESK: LINNMON / $45 - I've had this desk for 2 years going on 3, and have not had one single issue with it. Here is an image of it's potential.

PROJECTOR: Optoma HD142X / $545 - One of the best 1080p projectors on the market for the price. Can throw an amazing 150+ in screen size while still looking incredibly vivid and beautiful. Here is what it looks like in my current setup. Beats my 55 inch 4k TV I bought for $700.

There are also some short throw projectors that are really expensive, but if it's worth not having to mount it then it might be a good fit for you. Just note, any projector will be limited to how many devices you can hook up to it so I recommend either going with something like a chromecast, or buying a receiver to hook everything up to.

If you get a sofa from IKEA, just know that you are sacrificing a bit of comfort for aesthetics / easy setup and take down when you move. But the second part to that is important in your situation.

Most IKEA sofas are bought broken down, and you set it up at home. This makes moving them in much easier.

SOFA: FRIHETEN Sleeper sectional / $599 - This sofa is comfortable, functional, and looks really nice. I have since replaced it with a larger sectional when I moved, but here is an image of what it can look like in a space.

BED: Zinus Memory Foam 10 Inch Mattress, King / $275 - This is easily the best purchase I have made in quite some time. I was skeptical about it's price, but it is easily beyond any mattress I have ever slept on.

BEDFRAME: Really anything you like in this category, there are many options from all over the place. If you get a memory foam then a platform bed without a box spring looks sleek.

I'm actually more of a casual gamer who went PC - had consoles all the way up until about 2010 then nothing until last October. I was sold on being able to use Kodi and a 4TB HDD (+500GB SSD to house the OS and PC games) to turn the PC into a high end, much more customisable front end with 1,200 movies, over 90 TV series, and streaming services enabled, plus thousands of emulator games and Steam Big Screen (or whatever it's called) launchable from Kodi. With the exception of the Civilization series, almost all of the games I play though would be more console types - GTA, Witcher, MGSV, Tomb Raider series, etc (mods, graphics, loading times and game prices made it a WELL worthwhile investment, couldn't even consider PCs again) etc so I don't know how much help this would be to you but here we go... and yes, for 90% of games I use a controller! :p

Anyway, it works like a charm on my 42" HD TV (1080p since I'm not made of money!) and is really quite exceptional all in all, couldn't be happier. Wireless keyboard and mouse work excellently, it the arm of your sofa has a study build and tight fabric, or you have firm seats to the sofa the mouse works as well as a pad (though again, I use a controller for most games), but anyway... if you are thinking of stretching for a TV I would advise you to look into what I am doing when I move from Ireland to Canada later this year and investing in one of these - https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-GT1080-1080p-Gaming-Projector/dp/B00M9D4CAK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492121600&sr=8-1&keywords=gt1080

1080p if you are happy at that resolution, wireless apart from the power cable, short throw gets it to 100" from just 3.5 foot away (so on the coffee table, especially handy if you have a lower shelf to said coffee table), DLP picture, has 3D as well if you want it (though glasses are about $40 each so it's more of an added bonus than reason for buying on it's own), 3000 lumens means you'll get really good picture even in broad daylight which is very important in terms of making it a general use TV replacement, 25,000:1 contrast ratio means you'll get a highly dynamic picture, and about that screen size... you can scale it all the way back to 10.5ft for a 300" projection!! Again, I'm more of a casual gamer, but who wouldn't have a bit of fun with friends on the rooftop of their apartment complex or out the back yard against the wall playing Mario Kart 8 or Street Fighter/Mortal Kombat, or FIFA/Madden or whatnot at 22ft wide by 12.6ft high, basically half the size of a cinema screen?

Hey guys! I think current state of my craigslist stereo is pretty solid, so here are some pics, info, and street prices!

EDIT: $2,250 total cost including cables

I’ve been slowly tweaking and building up a stereo over the last year from stuff I’ve purchased off Craigslist. My girlfriend and I are slowly adventuring back to the east coast from San Francisco, and we set up shop in Bozeman, Montana for a year, in this bizarre basement apartment in the city’s only formal apartment building, built in 1914.

The one thing a carpeted basement apartments excels at? Acoustics!

1. B&W 805 Nautilus (w/stands: $1400) - I purchased these from a really cool guy who handled bags at SFO. He even let me pay over two paychecks! The imaging and upper-mid detail on these are INSANE. I’ll reserve judgement on the frequency response until I can add some acoustic treatments to the walls, especially on either side of the screen. Sliding a sine wave tone up and down the frequency range seems to reveal some surprising 3-4db dips and peaks in the response from its low end (45hz or so) all the way up into the 150hz range. I assume this has a lot to do with room acoustics. I need an SPL meter or a measurement microphone I think.
   
   
2. Energy S10.2 Subwoofer ($85) - Pretty impressive overall for the price. I would purchase this at eBay prices for sure. The front panel has a smooth crossover and volume dial so you can really do a good job matching up to the speakers. Seems to solidly reach down below 30hz with no problem and decent detail.
   
   
3. Emotiva XDA-2 DAC ($150) - FANTASTIC DAC for what it sells for used. Fully balanced analog circuitry with both RCA+XLR out, 24/192khz, and a hella solid aluminum remote. I removed the gross silver decorative face plate things, and took face apart to disable Emotiva's unfortunate and tacky "Shenzhen Blue" LED rings around every fucking button, and now it looks as good as it sounds.
   
   
4. Rotel RB-1080 (~$500) 200w x 2 (350w x 2 @ 4ohms for you power hungry electrostat guys). At first it blew me away. I still think this amp is an insane deal for what I paid for it, but the more I listen to it, and with more components and speakers, the more I don’t wonder if it does fit the online forum descriptions of “harsh/dry/fatiquing/analytic/etc). Maybe it’s the 805’s, but something about a lack of warmth and lack of clear present midrange seems to be afoot. I want to break my craigslist rule and save up for a used ~$2k Mark Levinson off eBay or something, to give these speakers an amp they really deserve.
   
   Other things to mention:
   
   
5. Screen: 100”, painted on the wall with cheap gray hardware store paint, with 2” black felt tape around it from amazon. I didn’t want to wait to order the Behr Silver Screen samples from Home Depot’s website, so I went to my local Ace Hardware and they color matched it from the computer! The screen cost me about $20 total including a foam roller.
   
   
6. Projector: (BenQ W1070, about $550) - This is my second one, and haven't had a single issue with either. I bought and used one in 2014-2015 for video installations in grad school (with fantastic results) as well as playing around with it at home. This combo looks unbelievably good, with great blacks and plenty of lumens to watch TV or play casual games in moderate room light. I frequently play games with half of the track lighting on!! As far as projector lag goes it’s minimal- I just beat the new Doom on ultra violence, so it works fairly well. Not saying it was remotely easy, but I didn’t feel like projector lag had anything to do with it!
   
   
7. Rotel RDV-1080 DVD/CD transport ($50) - Cheap...visually matches the amp. I use it as a transport only and COAX out to the DAC.
   
   
8. SurgeX SX-2120-SEQ ($5) sequential power conditioner and surge protector. Got it for $5 at an "employee auction" when I briefly worked for an AV company that would give employees the first dibs on any old equipment they pulled from remodeled luxury homes.
   
   
9. Black metal+ glass AV shelf ($40) - Looks great and super solid. I dunno anything else about it.

Not sure where you live or what options are around you but that can definitely make a difference.

The hot air balloon ride was already suggested but it's a good one.

You could check with the nearest zoo or aquarium and see if there is an option to do something like feed the animals. My local zoo has where you can feed penguins for 100$ (1 person) or feed pelicans for 55$ (2 people) or hide treats in the bear exhibit for 200$ (6 people).

I also do not know ages but I went out of my way to ship a bottle of my girlfriend's favorite wine in for valentine's day.

You could spend the money to buy a pocket projector which you can insert a usb drive into the side to projet from. Then buy a portable speaker and get an audio cable. Take her for a picnic in the park and then set up a portable theater for the two of you. Just need a rope and white sheet. It's also useful stuff for other things and surprisingly cheap and durable.

Definitely helps if you know what she likes. My girlfriend enjoys musicals so I bought her tickets to Phantom of the Opera for her birthday. Definitely not cheap. I also took her to the ballet for valentine's day.

Honestly, focus on doing something that she likes that might be pricier rather than just doing something that's expensive. My girlfriend appreciates that I bought a rose bush and that I'm growing the flowers that I give her each time rather than solely buying them from a flower shop. So you could do that sort of thing, it's also cheaper in the long run.

Obviously there is a lot to this so here are just a few suggestions/preferences:

1. Consider using this projector, it's great and half the price. The Epson isnt twice the projector. If you havent used projectors before, then do not underestimate the amount of heat they generate. They are wonderful but you will feel the heat
   https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-DLP-1080p-Projector-W1070/dp/B00A2T6X0K
   
   
2. If you can, use the same speaker for your right/left and center. Place them at the same height with the right/left distance creating an equilateral triangle with your primary listening position
   
3. Save money, dont buy a screen, use the wall and white paint. Internet search this topic to find more info. Obviously if you have matching LCR speakers at the same height then youll have to account for the center speaker's height. Again this is the ideal situation. Whatever works best for your room works best for your room
   
4. I know Denon is name brand but Ive read a number of mix reviews. My preference is Yamaha, lots of happy Yamaha receiver customers including me
   
5. Consider buying a used speaker system to get the best speakers possible. Speakers and subs are really what make your system come alive. Also consider getting two subs instead of one. Use the savings suggested above to invest in the best possible sound system

Well sounds like you’d be fine with a 1080p projector then.

The projector you had previously had 2000 lumens and a contrast ratio of 50k:1 meaning it was fairly bright and had pretty good blacks. If I were you, I’d try to stick to food being a projector with a similar contrast ratio as this will be pretty noticeable to you since you’ve lived with one before. The $1,100 is more than enough to find yourself a suitable projector that will have these features. I prefer LCD bulbs for their longevity and lower replacement cost but that’s just my 2¢ - you’ll find many who disagree.

But if your price point is $1100, 4K projectors are starting to appear near that range. You may wish to consider purchasing a 4K projector as it will help increase its longevity as more and more media will move towards 4K. Plus, 4K projectors usually have pretty great contrast ratios.

That being said, I rock an epson 2030 and it’s totally fine for me as I don’t do 4K and watch mostly when it’s dark outside.


My advice to you, now that you’re armed with the answers to these questions is to head to projector central and explore their home theater by budget categories (top left set of links). This site has more knowledge than could possibly be useful to one person.

I’d say you’d love an epson 2150 and it would probably fit all your needs and you’d love it. It can be had for just under $800 on epsons website or on Amazon

Take all this with salt as I’m not expert but just trying to be helpful. Let us know what you eventually settle on.

Hello all.

This will be my first foray into the audio world so I apologize in advance for any frustration going through this comment.

I’m looking for speakers to use for music and tv.

My budget is ~700 usd and I live in a very small space so don’t need lots of power.

For music, I primarily listen to jazz and folk with a smattering of hip hop, some opera and classical. I don’t really listen to electronic(?) music and prefer mid-range string instruments, piano and I focus most on vocals. Love lower female voices and higher male voices.

I don’t regularly enjoy symphonies or electronic music or songs with booming bass as the centerpiece.

For tv, I just need sound to be present- no frills. The one caveat though is that it needs to play nice with my projector Optoma HD 142x which just has a 3.5mm audio out and two HDMI. Thinking of using with a bluetooth adapter.. But concerned this will give rise to syncing issues - might be more of a question for r/hometheaters, but if anyone has any experience please chime in!

The source for my music will primarily be my desktop and streaming apps on my phone. For tv, it’ll be computer/Chromecast/Firestick (all HDMI).

So based on some preliminary digging, seems various Edifier, Elac Debut and Dali Zensor come highly recommended on reddit for this price range..

I’m leaning more toward the Dali Zensor 1 because of the smaller size and looks.. But I’m not sure what amp I should get with it. Or if I should stay away from passives in the first place.

My dad, who lives overseas, was playing with the idea of sending me his Synthesis Flame (they stopped making this one I believe? Please chime in if you have any info/opinions). He said it would be good as a starter amp and it sounded nice with his Elacs. But shipping would be 200 or so and he sort of changed his mind and said I may as well buy one here in the US for that price, and that he can see some people getting tired of the Flame imparting warm/bright qualities to music.

So then I’m considering the Dali Zensor 1 AX which has a built in amp and bluetooth capability. I think I will enjoy learning and futzing around with different speakers, amps, sources and whatnot, but an active speaker with limited inputs (no USB, electrical digital or even standard stereo RCA inputs according to audiofi.net) will put a damper on developing this hobby..

What are your suggestions? Active? Passive? What speakers? What amp?

Side note: I’m a bit of a romantic so I think tube amps are really cool and the Synthesis Flame especially is pretty damn sexy. But do let me know if you think a digital amp would be considerably more practical.

PS - Please feel free to ramble, go off on tangents, correct me and potentially over-explain. Really trying to learn here! It’s been a thrill having father daughter time over one of his few hobbies :D

1. Microcenter prices are variable, but they have very good pricing on some components (CPUs, some cases), and they're also one of the few places that seems to have 970s still in-stock (walk-in only helps, I suppose). For other components, however, their prices are actually higher than online deals, as their big draws (cheap CPUs, certain combos) serve as loss-leaders to get you into the store.
   
   
2. i5s are great CPUs for gaming, but for, say, video editing, you'd want more threads (and, if possible, cores), so something like an i7 would be ideal. Since you're just gaming, however, an i5 will be perfect!
   
   
3. Oho, headphones shakes things up a bit. What genres do you listen to, what style of headphone (supra-aural, circumaural, IEM, etc.) do you prefer, and how important are things like isolation to you?
   
   
4. Be aware, 240hz televisions use a frame interpolation technology that simulates additional frames, rather than actually displaying whatever their rated refresh rate is. Standard broadcast framerate is 29.97FPS, and most console games run below 60FPS (though that's not always the case). A true 120-144FPS at 144hz looks considerably better/smoother, in addition to lacking the massive lag that the interpolation introduces.
   
   
5. Excellent! Can I convince you to order a mechanical [switch] (http://www.cmstore-usa.com/mechanical-key-switch-demo-board/) [sampler] (http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8) to see which type of switches you prefer? Alternatively, since you have a Microcenter nearby, you could mess around a bit on their display keyboards while you're there, then check the switch type of the one that suits you best.
   
   
6. Saves me some hassle, too, as that's roughly how loud an average system will be, so I don't have to squeeze more fans or somesuch into the budget.
   
   Oh, that's important to know. Our "default" case, particularly for people with Microcenter access, is [this fellow here] (http://www.zalman.com/global/product/Product_Read.php?Idx=476). I imagine that's not quite so simplistic as you were looking for?

1. In order to SLI you need the same PCB design, so as long as the PCB is reference it should be fine. But they also need to be clocked the same. Some have factory overclocked versions like in EVGA SC. I have not done it so don't quote me on that though.
   
   
2. Depends on how you purchased it. They come in both versions anyways, but the thumb drive way is easier and faster.
   
   
3. Quality of the display depend on the panel not the connectors. They're mostly there for accessibility. HDMI is universal, so they're easy to be plugged into any systems. VGA are very old but they're still used in many server rooms in companies around the world.
   
   
4. You don't need to turn on v-sync. G-sync already works like v-sync in max refresh rate of the monitor. It just adjusts refresh rate corresponding to the fps change in your application.
   
   
5. I wouldn't know, because I don't use air cooling but AIO or custom water loops are better as far as performance goes. You can't compare them. AIO is basically maintenance free so it is overall better.
   
   
6. To answer the question short, you wouldn't notice much at all. And it's not worth paying for extra premium if you're going to game. I explained to different question a few days ago here.
   
   
7. Mainly the premium motherboards have more USB ports, more aesthetic upgrade, may have more m.2 slots, better components on resistors and voltage control, better quality overall. They're mostly for the people who just want to max out, as $150 motherboards will do just fine anyways. And most of the X-series motherboards are targeted towards people who want to 2-way SLI or even more, so they have more x16 PCI-e slots, even though that's not at all needed. People pay premium to feel like they have crazy beast in their rig.
   
   
8. Of course it's personal preference. They generally range from blue to red/silent. The difference is their actuation time, how they feel and most importantly to me, the sound. Blue switches make a lot of noise and if you have people around you they will hate you a lot. They also feel very clicky and many people like it. Browns make less noise but feel a bit like blue. This switch is mostly where people start or stay. But if you happen to bottom out (or in other words, press all the way down) when typing, you'll still make much noise. Red is very light and silent, fast actuation time, so it is very easy to press the keys so there are many accidental presses when using them according to people. I personally use romer-g keys from Logitech, which most mech key people hate because they feel somewhat like normal keyboards with a bit of "mush" but I didn't find them uncomfortable at all. They're still good keys and just need the round keycap ordered. You can order a tester kit to find out a bit if you'd like.

Hello home theater gurus! You guys have helped me before when I was looking for a nice set of speakers for a previous setup and it was much appreciated and very helpful.

Basically, I moved to a new house and it has a great basement, perfect for entertaining. on the far back there is a wall perfect for a projector and screen setup (at least it seems like it to me!). The space looks like this and the measurements are here. I currently have Fluance AVHTB speakers: http://www.fluance.com/avhtb-surround-sound-home-theater-5-speaker-system
plus two small Onkyo bookshelp speakers for rear surround for a 7.1 HT setup.
I have an old Onkyo receiver: HT-R560 powering everything and a Dayton Audio SUB-1000 10" 100 Watt Powered Subwoofer to round it all out.

For a projector, I seemed to have settled on a BenQ DLP HD 1080p Projector (HT2050)-$700: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016JYOQ3W/?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AgEAAAAAAAAAAKz5

for the screen I figure it can roll down from the upper ledge in teh above picture, so I chose an Elite Screens Spectrum, 100-inch Diag 16:9, Electric Motorized 4K Ready Drop Down Projector Screen for about $200: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YTRFEG/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=themasswi0f-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B000YTRFEG&linkId=48a99c29ba91e26e8944f995e9b3d432


Am I doing OK? would you recommend anything else? I want to use it for some gaming (an old PS3, maybe being upgraded to a PS4 in teh near future and for movies/TV... mostly from the internet (Netflix/Hulu/etc.).

some questions I have:

should I go with a screen that allows sound to go through better for my mid speaker, or will cranking it up be OK for that and just getting the better screen (but lets less sound through) be good?

Should I forget the projector idea (never have had one) and just get a giant TV?

what would be and how much money would the next level best bang for your buck projector run me?

do wireless HDMI setups work well for all applications (no laggy picture)?

will this projector look pixelated at all at the max (100") for this screen?

would the next sized Elite screen (110" max) be worth it at $300? It would fit, but reach down to almost the floor.


Thanks in advance for all your help and please excuse my newbie questions!

Rock on and thanks!

-Lou

If you're willing to stretch your budget just a bit more, the BenQ w1070 is raved for it's price range and will compete with many pricier projectors. It's selling for $585 on amazon at the time of this post. There are newer models of it, but it was the gold standard <$1k projector when I was shopping around a year ago. Otherwise, the Optoma HD142X is also well received, athough again $48 over your price range. I personally purchased an Acer H5380BD a year ago around $400, with a factory refurb currently selling on amazon for $280 (steal price!!). If you're buying new though, I'd recommend stretching out for the w1070, or newer BenQ generation if you can save up to the $700 mark. The w1070 is worth the extra cash compared to my Acer, but I do enjoy my Acer quite a bit and would jump on that refurb if you're comfortable purchasing a refurb. Things have changed in the past year though, so might help to do a quick search on wire cutter or other sources for newer tech.

ninja edit: if the BenQ was <$600 when I got my Acer, would have purchased without a doubt. It was around $750 when I was holding out for it but got too impatient.

double edit: Acer 5382 is a brigher version of the 5380 for $420. These are 720p though and I'd still recommend the BenQ. As someone else mentioned, H6510BD is a solid projector as well, but the BenQ w1070 was repeatedly named best value for a reason.

Linus does a pretty good job of covering everything computer wise. You can watch how to's and quick explanations of computer terms to get you up to speed.

For 15ft, a HDMI cable seems like the better option (Get one a little longer than you think gives you more leeway to route it better). Much cheaper so you can put that money into the projector. I strongly suggest a 1080p projector as I feel like most people would regret going with a lower resolution. Projector Central is a good place to research. Here is my recommendation for $100 more. review

When I was talking about streaming from the box, I was meaning using Plex to stream externally(haven't heard of Plex? you really should check it out. Lets you stream all your movies anywhere you are). Though the limited number of streams the CPU can handle would probably not max out a WiFi N 150mbps connection (In an apartment setting I suggest using the 5GHz band of N or AC, vastly less interference with better bandwidth). As a bonus your sister will be able to stream everything with relative ease. If you use the automatic downloaders I linked below, I suggest putting a limit to the DL/UL speeds as to not hog all the bandwidth and keep your sister happy.

Bonus: Check out Kodi's newest movie streaming plug in that I think would be perfect for you, Genesis.

Some research for you.

Couchpotato

Plex

Sonarr

NZBGet

Headphones

Kodi

SVP - smooth video player I love this program

I feel like I am still missing something.

• Projector: Epson 5040, its a pseudo 4K like the one recommended to you, but much better. It can be had for $2500 or $2800 if you want wireless HDMI. A step down from that (regular 1080p) will be the Epson 5030 with wireless HDMI for ~$2475 (non-wireless is actually more expensive, as limited stock).
  
  Actually, 5040 be too bright for the room, it is meant for >150" screens or rooms with tons of ambient light, get the 5030. It can be mounted anywhere from 11ft-17ft while still being bright. I would suggest just setting it to THX mode and seeing how dim that would be, with that doesn't work at 11ft, set it to Cinema mode. At worst, set it to Living Room mode. You don't want to pre-mount the projector if it isn't good in that spot obviously. While projectors state >2000 lumens, that's like the dynamic setting on tv's at BestBuy, an accurate picture will have less light output.
  
  A mount for these should run you <$150
  
  
• Screen: 110" SilverTicket fixed frame in grey (better black level) for $290.
  
  Now, that leaves ~$3300 for audio (forgot about the universal remote/app thing, it seems good enough, but I don't know enough about it, Logitech's Harmony set is what's usually used though).
  
  
• Receiver: Denon X1300 for $400 (usually $600). Much better than the S510 model.
  
  
• Fronts:
  
  
  • Option #1: The PSA's, 2 orders of these and 1 of these. Totaling, $2275. These are pretty much the baddest boys on the block, don't get much better unless you really get into the Hi-Fi stuff.
    
    
  • Option #2: For a cheaper option (but not a cheap option), with towers, I would recommend the HTD Level Three towers + center. Now, they are a Texas company, so I don't know if sales tax is applied, if not, they will cost you ~$1050-$1175 depending on color and shipping costs. Now, these are very, very good speakers in their own right, but those PSA's would work in an actual movie theater. However, "Are the PSA's worth literally double the HTD setup?", I would say no, I would say $1750-$2000 would be a better price for the 3 speakers.
    
    
• Subwoofer: Rhythmic FVX15 for $1000. If with the PSA's, get the HSU VTF-MK5 for ~$600.
  
  
• Surrounds: Really no money for surrounds if you get the PSA's (unless downgrade the receiver and/or subwoofer). If going HTD's, you would have enough to do 7.1 easily.
  
  For surrounds, what is your seating layout going to be? Will there be just 1 row of seating, or will you have 2?

Honestly mine was the sound. I used a friend's MX Red keyboard, and while it is still definitely an amazing keyboard, I wanted something more tactile and loud, strangely enough. I haven't used the blue switches, however I am positive that I want something with the tactile bump, so that narrowed it down to blues, browns, and greens for me. After watching some videos of people typing on youtube, I found that I loved the sound of the blues/greens. Then I simply chose blues because I'm used to my laptop and desktop keys, which are both pretty light to press.

Don't overthink it too much, all of the MX keyswitches are great. It will simply be a difference between super awesome and awesome.

Also they sell switch test kits:
http://www.cmstore-usa.com/mechanical-key-switch-demo-board/

http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8

You could buy one of those and then resell it at /r/mechmarket

Hope that helped.

Blue is the loud clickity clackity switch. A lot of people like the noise and try to associate it with mechanical keyboards, but if you're like me and prefer a less noisy experience avoid them. When a friend of mine was still living at home, his mom made him get rid of his blue switch keyboard because it was so loud she couldn't sleep at night being in the next room. He also didn't have o-rings so she had to deal with the clicky noises and the clacking from bottoming out.

Browns are basically quieter versions of Blues. Great for typing without all the noise. Has a tactile bump for actuation without the click noise and great for typing. I use these for both gaming and typing and I love them.

Reds are linear switches. Little quieter than browns. Easier to bottom out if you don't have o-rings because there isn't a bump or click for actuation and they have little resistance. Typically used more for gaming, but doesn't mean you need them for gaming.

All three are commons choices and at the end of the day it completely comes down to preference. If you're unsure what switch you'd prefer, go to a computer store with some on display and try them out. If none are available, there are switch testers to you can order to test out the different choices.

http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4 For example.

Also, http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8 cheaper option with less switch choices.

Browns with o-rings are my personal favorite. Brown for the bump without the click, and o-rings to avoid the clack. I also really love the way Black switches feel, but admittedly they're a bit too stiff for me to game with so I stick with brown.

You are making a wise consideration, hope to welcome you to the family soon!

A few things to start. I would really suggest buying a switch tester. As easy as it is to read about keys, testing them is essential. Some people say Blues are loud, for others they aren't loud enough. Some say Blacks are too sturdy, others think they are too easy to press, etc, etc. That being said, spend the few extra bucks and test out the switches so you can make a wise investment. Sure it won't tell you what its like to type on, but it will answer the questions like is it going to be too loud? or do I want tactile? or do I want clicky? or do I want linear? Reading can not answer these questions for you, plain and simple.

On that note, a mech is definitely an investment. It should last years, if not decades. If problems do occur, most are easy fixes. So once you do decide what your needs are, such as...

• size (60%, 75%/TKL, Full Size)
  
• backlighting
  
• key switch type
  
• color
  
• keycap set/o rings/other add-ons
  
  ...then start looking for keyboards that fit your criteria. I will say, above all, don't settle on key switch type, all the other stuff can be added or changed fairly easily. Size is probably the next most important decision (in some cases the priority of these two may be flipped).
  
  If you come back with some of your wants/needs/budget we can start looking at specific keyboards you may have questions about!
  
  

I'm using an Optima HD142X https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQCF6R6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Great value and the picture quality is awesome. If you wait until it gets really dark outside you can probably get away with a cheaper one. I haven't bought into building a dedicated screen yet but for now I'm using a huge painter's canvas drop cloth I bought at Lowes. It works great for what I'm doing. You would think that the canvas cloth would lower picture quality but you don't even notice it. The projector has enough lumens to give you great clarity and color. We play games and watch movies out here on the weekends. For sound I'm using a JBL charge 2+. Plenty of volume for what we're doing. I may get some nice outdoor speakers eventually. I'm a bit of an audiophile. You should see my HTPC setup.

If there's leftovers on the grill, it's right there too! A cooler of drinks near us and the night is set! My wife bought us an outdoor bed/hammock type thing that we can "sleep" on too. :)

Don't have all the answers but I do have some. I just got through piecing together a system for my one bedroom apartment.

This is the projector you are going to buy. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I0VRE6E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1452047986&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=acer+h5380bd

You will not. I repeat, you will not find a better quality to price ratio in any other model. For $383 shipped to your door you get...

720p native resolution. 16:9 aspect ratio 17000:1 contrast ratio 3000 ansi lumens 5000 (standard) lamp life along with 3d capability if that's your thing. It's not mine but it's available and that's nice right?

I bought that for $293 refurbished from their outlet store. So sub $300...Jesus Christ the value is unreal dude. Unreal.

I paired it with an elite screen 100" manual pull down 16:9 HD 4k screen for $78. It's crazy.

I decided to mount mine so I got a $25 ceiling mount. The total is $400 and you have a setup that will give any home theater fan a boner.

Now, Audio.

I picked this up today for $420.

Klipsch sf-2 towers(2 black)
Ksw10 sub
HK avr154 receiver

Truth be told. I'm planning on selling the sub (because I'm in an apartment) and buying a set of surrounds. Want to buy it? $100! lol

I really wanted to keep it under $800 for everything but with new speaker wires, a dark red matte paint for the walls and speaker wire I'm at $860.

This setup is pretty damn future proof as well. It's been out a few years already and will continue to be the best bang for the buck until they no longer make them.

There is my sub $900 home theater setup.

If I sell the sub for $100 (should be easy) I could grab a set of MB652 airs for the rears at $90 shipped.

I plan on making a post next week with pictures and more so if you have any questions feel free. I did extensive research on everything and am very happy with every single purchase.

There is a ton of info in the wiki.

As for gaming, I suppose if you played a game that made use of the number pad a lot, then you would want a full size 104 key board. Also, some boards like the Razer blackwidow have extra keys that do....things.

If you never use the number pad, then any ~87 key board (tenkeyless) or ~61 key board (60%) board would be fine.

As for typing, much like gaming, it depends primarily on the type of switches the board has, and not so much the board itself.There are a ton of different opinions about which switches are better for typing and which are better for gaming and which are best for both.Totally subjective.

You could maybe get a key sampler to try out some of the most popular cherry mx switches and see which you like best. There are lots of different switches out there, though. As i said, there is a lot of info on the wiki, and other sites like deskthority have wikis explaining the different switches too.

The best "non-smart TV" will probably be a projector but the best ones, much like the Ferrari discussion below, are tailored because they know people are getting just the display.

I think the reason you're getting flak is that you're asking, effectively, "I want a car in the Camry price range that is tailored to the way I drive." TV producers, and Camry producers, are going to make something that caters to the highest number of people not something that fits the pro-sumer market. Pro-sumer TVs just don't exist. They will never fit the use case of enough people to be justified. The closest thing out there are the commercial displays, but those are for digital signage (again, suited to the use case) and far beyond your price range.

If you've got a good home theater setup with surrounds and etc, get a projector. Here's a good one for $730. Then get a 120" entry level motorized screen and for $840, you no longer have a Smart TV, and have a 120" display (or there about).

Hey man, cool that you're looking into an upgrade!

You said you wanted 10Keyless, i believe CMstorm has some good ones (also one that is reduced in size because the numpad and arrow keys are merged [Quickfire TK] if you want to look into that), corsair also have some good keyboards i've heard and so does logitech but i'm not sure if either of those have TKL versions.. DAS-keyboard and ducky are probably the best built keyboards out there at this time.

I personally use MX blue switches and i've been told many times that red switches are best for gaming in general. if you want you can look into a few tester switches to see what suits you best (http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8).

Feel free to ask me more questions about this matter if you feel the need to do so :)

Hi everyone, I've been looking at getting a projector for a while now, and I'm extremely confused about specs and price ranges. Hoping you can clear it up for me some.

I would like to have one for gaming on my PC, as well as netflix and such. I have a fairly high end gaming rig that easily runs most games at 1080p/60fps on my monitor, and I want to be able to get the same results through a projector(60 Hz or better refresh rate).

I've looked around and found a number of different projectors at quite different price points. I am hoping to stay under $1000 Canadian.

Here are a few that I've found:

-Optoma HD27- $889 CAD

-Optoma HD142X- $779 CAD


-BenQ W1070- $1444 CAD


-Optoma GT1080- $787 CAD


-Epson 2040- $996 CAD

I see a lot of threads of people saying trying to get a good projector for under $1000 is not a good idea- can anyone help me out with these choices and tell me which one is best, and if I really need to spend more?

If you have any other suggestions besides the ones I've listed, please let me know! Thanks!

I don't make that much money, I just know how to spend wisely and I don't have kids so I have more disposable income than some people. Like I said, it was like $1200 back in 2014. The screen cost around $100 to make and the mount was another $100 or so. So roughly $1400 for the video part of this setup. I vaguely remember the audio system was around $600 altogether cuz I found a crazy deal on the speakers and then later found a crazy deal on a receiver, so around $2000 for the whole thing.

I'm planning on eventually upgrading to 4K (this setup is 1080P only), but projectors that do HDR & 4K are still WAYYYYY too expensive. Because it's an old model now, you can find a W1070 for like $600. Up until like 5 years ago this wasn't really do-able unless you were willing to settle for 720P or spend like $3000+, but there are now a bunch of nice options if you're looking for a 1080P projector in the $600 to $1200 range. That may seem like a lot of money if you haven't gone TV shopping before, but that's right in line with what you'll see shopping for pretty much anything over 50" that isn't a garbage house brand. Main difference is the screen is "Whatever you can fit in the room" as opposed to 65".

I'm not well versed in projectors at all but I bought this for myself as a birthday gift and I love it! I put a solar shade in my picture window and the projector sits on my coffee table 11' away and I get a great picture. I'm not sure of the diagonal measurements on my projection but my window is 70" wide and it fills it. Amazon also has a best of list for projectors - that's how I found this one.

> I'm not the one actually buying the house, so I don't anything about escrow. I don't even know what that means tbh. My father is buying the house, which is something he's done often, so I have full confidence he's protecting himself.

Please do everyone a favor and confirm with your father that he is using an escrow account for the purchase, and a title company to perform the closing.

An escrow account is, basically, a bank account that is held by a trusted third party. For example, ABC Title Company in town. Your father gives them the money, and they write up a contract, and then the seller works with the escrow company to complete the sale and transfer ownership of the home. Once it's done, and everything checks out, then the Title company takes the money from their bank account and sends it to the seller.

As an aside, another scam is for the buyer to get a last-minute email saying he needs to wire (transfer) the funds to a different bank account. Buyer sends money and then goes to the title company. They ask where the money is, but the buyer sent it to a strangers account and it's GONE. Do not transfer any money to any accounts unless you verbally verify any last-minute changes with the escrow account owner.

> I've met the owner of the house. I've met his ex wife. He's listed at the owner at the tax assessors office, he's got his own picture up on his Facebook page, he's also the owner of a well-known business here in town. There is no way this is a scam.

Ok, that is much more reassuring.

You should follow through with the crime report.

And, FWIW, instead of paying $3k for a big screen TV, check out this projector instead. It's $2200, and is AMAZING. Just point it at a wall and you have an instant 114" or larger movie. Add a cheap surround sound system and you have a theater. I have one, and love it. We have movie night once a month for all the kids in the neighborhood and it's totally awesome.

I used to think projectors had mediocre quality, and that was very much the case years ago, but now all I see is the future. If you take your visual media experiences seriously, this is the next level. I did the research, and Optoma's HD20 is superb quality at a great price. Unless you find issue with movies in a theater, you will not find issue with anything you see on a home projector, because they look better. You will not be disappointed by the deep blacks. Sure, they could be darker, but it's really nitpicking when you see the clarity of this thing. You will want to host movie nights every night.

If you live in a place where you could mount a screen, or have a room setup with enough space to use a stand, and you truly want to get the theater experience, you can get a solid projector-based setup for $1500.

BenQ W1070 - $700

16:9 100' retractable screen - $80

Assume ~$70 for a blu ray player, if you don't want to just get an HDMI cable and adapter and use your laptop for now, and that leaves $650 for audio, which can certainly get you a very strong two-channel system. Especially if you live in an area with a healthy craigslist trade. Then you can work your way up to 5.1 over time if you feel the need to.

Keep an eye out on craigslist for Infinity Primus P363 tower speakers (and for upgrading to 5.1, other Infinity Primus speakers as well). The Primus line has just gone out of production, but they're great speakers for their price, and the 363 towers could regularly be had for $200 a pair on sale at Amazon or Fry's, so they got around quite a bit and pop up pretty regularly secondhand.

In general soundbars and other home-theater-in-a-box setups are a good thing to avoid if you can afford to step up a notch, and I think you could with your budget, especially your budget + some patience for sales or your budget + craigslist.

I can't say I'm an a/v guru, but this is the core of my setup and I typically get "I would never leave my couch..." reactions when folks come over, haha.

You'll probably find more advice over in /r/hometheater, too.

I found what I was thinking of. It's called a 3d holographic display. It is also a rotating bar with lights on it but the software must be more complex I guess.
Here's a cheaper one. GIWOX 3D Hologram Advertising Display LED Fan, Holographic 3D Photos and Videos - 3D Naked Eye LED Fan is Best for Store, Shop, Bar, Casino, Holiday Events Display Etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077YD59RN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UmT6BbP4K4N8D

And a $1200 one GIWOX 2018 3D Hologram Fan Display 65S with Powerful WiFi,1080P HD and 724Pcs Led Beads,Four-Axil Design and High Transfer Speed,Upload by iOS and Android 3D Holographic Fan(25.6Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HSTLTR5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_spT6Bb5JKYS7J

First, since everything is already wired, you need to make sure you get a model that works with your screen size and mounting distance.

I like this calculator: http://www.projectorcentral.com/projection-calculator-pro.cfm

Good luck!

Next, most reviews say the best entry-level DLP projector is the BenQ W1070 or the updated W1075. If you watch for a sale you can get them very close to your price range.

https://amzn.com/B00A2T6X0K

https://amzn.com/B00LTMPOUO


The main reason they are so well reviewed is they are one of the few entry level projectors that have a true RGBRGB color wheel. This results in a lower listed brightness (because they don't have a clear segment to cheat the test), but a greater perceived brightness during actual use. They also have better color balance without calibration right out of the box.

In a blacked out room they should be more than bright enough.

I have an Optoma HD20, pretty much the same distance away from the projector in a room similarly sized, with similar light constraints. I've been pretty pleased with that projector except for some screen door effect I tend to notice on some blurays.

That being said I've been keeping my eye on a new projector for a while and think this one is close to what you're looking for:
http://www.amazon.com/Epson-PowerLite-Home-Cinema-8350/dp/B0044UHJWY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1377614422&sr=8-3&keywords=epson+powerlite

Unfortunately I don't have any experience with the two HD25 models but the older model seemed to do just find except for the occasional screen door. So hopefully they've done a good job updating their product line...

edit: If anyone has any experience with the screen door issue on the HD20 and has found any solutions it would be awesome if you could share it...

Objectives for space:

• Create a space for 4-6 people can setup 1 computer per person to play games (LAN setup)
  
• This could be accomplished by either building custom or buying desks / tables
  
• All spaces for players/people do not need to be near each other
  
• Make use of projector as a large scale source of TV (not for LAN gaming)
  
• A couch / fouton would be nice for viewing projector
  
• Paint walls to a grey tone - potentially #CECECC
  
• Considering replacing carpet with something that would match a grey tone
  
• Replace / Rewire all outlets from 2-prong to 3-prong grounded outlets (in progress)
  
  Budget:
  
  
• TBD
  
  Constraints / Affordances:
  
  
• While the basement is much larger, the walls cannot be knocked down / removed. Doors will need to stay in the same places.
  
• All items (Desk, futon, table, etc) are removable
  
  What I need help with:
  
  
• How to create a gaming (LAN party) space for myself and friends without sacrificing an entertainment room for myself and my girlfriend.
  
  
  I'm happy to provide any other measurements / info if needed to help with my project!

Basic run-down

You can buy a test kit that comes with all the switches that come with Cherry MX keyboards to find a preference. Blue and Reds are fairly popular from what I know, but /r/MechanicalKeyboards have more in-depth information about everything you need to know about them.

I'd try and split your money in half- $100-$120 on a mouse (however some of the best mice can be under this budget), and then $130-$150 on the keyboard. For mice you need to know what sort of mouse you prefer to narrow down your choices (Size? Weight? Sensitivity? Macros?). You might want to also check out what pro players of your favourite game genre use. If you're an FPS fan, look up CSGO professionals' mice, MOBA/RTS? Check DOTA2 or LoL. Professional players often use mice that are durable, precise, and extremely comfortable to use during long practice sessions.

Maybe i should mention these projectors have caught my eye, but wondering if i should look at additional models

Optoma HD141X main attraction is 1080 at cheap price

Viewsonic Pro9000 main attraction is laser means i dont have to change the bulb every year?

Optoma GT1080 main attraction is that it says its made for gaming

i know this is a wide range. looking for smarter people than me help narrow it down, or point to other models i should include in the shopping list

My recliners are 13' from my screen. My screen is a 125", which is about 9' in width.

I have a BenQ W1070 as my PJ and a tensioned, motorized Elite Screens as my screen.

The W1070 is discontinued but their HT2050 is the successor to it. I love my W1070 and it's regarded as one of the best PJs you can buy under $1000.

My screen was $570 shipped. I've had no issues with it and installing it was super easy and fast. Mounted two screws to two studs and hung it. I programmed my Harmony remote to be able to raise and lower it.

I have the Corsair K70 [non RGB] with Cherry MX red switches. If I were you I'd get a K70. My friend has the Razer Blackwidow with the custom Razer green switches. He loves it.

Before you buy a mechanical keyboard tho. You really need to try out each switch. You could either buy one of these to test it out, or you can go to a local computer store that has keyboards on show.
If you end up buying a mechanical keyboard without testing the switches out first. You may end up hating your keyboard.
Most people like the MX blues [the clicky ones].

I like the MX reds though because you can't feel a bump when you push down a key, and because they are pretty quiet [unless you bash your keyboard]

There are lots of mechanical keyboards on the market. You could go all out and get a Ducky keyboard or get a pretty cheap one like this one

If you want macros then you can go for a Corsair K95 which has 18 macro keys. If you want less macros then you can go for the Logitech G710+ which has 6 macros.

Just remember to try out each MX switch, and you should be good.

This may be helpful to purchase before you spend a lot of money on a keyboard: http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396128414&sr=8-1&keywords=cherry+mx+test

Personally, I prefer more resistance than Red or Brown switches will provide. Blues are pretty nice to type on and they definitely work fine for gaming, but be warned before you bring one of those keyboards into an office - people will probably be upset because they can get pretty loud.

There are also a few less common types of switches to consider: Clear switches are essentially Brown switches with extra resistance, and Green switches are like Blues with extra resistance. If you're a pretty violent typist, you might want to consider those.

And then, of course, you have the classic Unicomp keyboards with buckling springs like an old IBM Model M keyboard. If you've used one of those before, you probably remember the feeling - there's nothing quite like it. I'm typing on a Unicomp right now, and it's by far my favorite keyboard to date. This is also very easily the loudest keyboard I've ever owned, and while it's probably not loud enough to get you evicted from an apartment, it's entirely possible that your neighbors will hear it if you have thin walls.

Viewsonic, 3000 Lumens, 800by600, 3D capable $350 (New)

VIewsonic, 2800 Lumesn, 800by600, 3D capable $300 (New)

If you're willing to buy used or refurbished it gets even better. I got a 3,500 Lumens, 1024by768, 3D capable refurbished for $200 about 3 weeks ago.

ANSI Lumens is brightness in case you don't know, the more Lumens the easier it will be to see during the day; most pico (mini) projectors don't get over 50 to 150 Lumens. Considering my 3,500 Lumen projector is usable during the day but not great, good with normal curtains closed and wonderful with blackout curtains you won't want a pico projector as your main display unless it's only going to be used at night.

-- ANSI Lumens: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumen_(unit)#ANSI_lumens You want to make sure it says ANSI Lumens when checking products, otherwise it is likely a completely BS number.

Try to avoid off brand projectors, prices will be great but the quality tends to be complete crap.

Take into consideration bulb life and replacement cost! I can't stress this enough; the price of a projector doesn't end once you've bought it, you'll likely need to replace the bulb every 1 to 3 years.

Also contrast ratio is important but you can't trust the ones they post anyways (any full size projector should have good contrast ratio these days).

Acer H5380BD 720p. Yields really excellent color, though only 720p video.

As far as the the controller, it depends on what I'm playing. Racing games, I like the throw on the Xbox controller better.

Anything with 3d movement - like Just Cause 3 - Steam Controller all the way. The right touch pad is way more accurate than an analog stick and is more satisfying to use.

On top of that, Gyro aiming is a blast. I love to play JC3 like Spider-man, trying to use the grapple hook for everything. So a group of soliders come running at me, I'll hook one, flick my wrist up so I'm aiming at the ceiling, release to tether them up there, then a flick of the wrist back down and I'm aiming level again.

Or, another example, I've getting shot from behind, I'll flick the touchpad to the right, which sends the view spinning, than press my thumb down to stop the spinning.

With the steam controller, moves like this are trivial. It really feels like the perfect marriage of gamepad comfort and mouse precision. Bit of a learning curve, but it's an amazing controller once you get used to and going back to play strictly analog stick games feels painful and awkward afterwards.

The addition of the back channels depends on the room size and listening position. Provide either a sketch or dimensions of the room and where the furniture is. EDIT. Well at 22' the room can probably benefit from the extra rears. There ideal placement puts the current rears to the side of the user and the back speakers flat against the rear wall firing forward. Far enough apart to differentiate left and right back.

Consult this chart to see where you SHOULD be sitting to fully enjoy 1080P or to choose the right screen size.

B652's are awesome speakers in just about every application. So as rears they are almost TOO good ;)

As for matching center to front there is some validation to that theory. If a sound(a car or person speaking) goes from left to center to right it will sound differently if the Midrange and Highs are produced with different hardware. If you go with either the 64 or 84 you can get this DV62C Center to match.

Another set of BIC I like are the Formula Series with matching center.

F12 is the recommended sub for everyone under $500 budget so that is fine. (maybe two of them?)

There are only really a handful of projectors that run sub-$1000 and 1080P. The Optima HD20, The Viewsonic Pro8200 and there is also this SLIGHTLY over budget Epson. I haven't researched in a while so I may be missing one or two out there.

Well, that's pretty much as unfancy as the questions get when talking about even the most basic home theater.

The room size pretty much determines the throw. If you have a big room (eg 12'+), then you can go with a medium throw projector, but if the room is <12', you'll have to start looking into short-throw projectors which are crazy expensive. "Throw" or "throw ratio" is essentially the distance a projector needs to be away from the wall to show a certain screen width (throw ratio = distance from screen/width of screen). eg. If you want a 6' wide picture in a 12' room, you'd have to have a projector with a throw ratio of at least 2. The smaller the throw ratio, the larger the picture you can have in a smaller room. Another way of thinking about it is if you have a room that is 10' and the projector has a throw ratio of 1.5, the maximum screen width will be 6.66' (10/1.5). If you put that same projector in a 15' room, the maximum screen width would be 10' (15/1.5).

If you are planning to blackout the room, you can get away with fewer lumens, but if you plan to leave the windows uncovered or only partially shaded, then you'll need far more lumens to get a decent picture.

How you plan to mount the project determines the connections and image alignment. If you need wireless connections, that eliminates a lot of projectors. If you plan to mount the projector from the ceiling vs mid-wall, you'll need to be able to adjust the image. Some have pretty basic controls, but depending on your plans, you may need something better.

For my home theater, I have a BenQ W1070. It's 14' room with black-out window covers, and it's mounted mid-wall. However, I only spent ~$500 on it because when I bought it the newer version had just come out. The newer model W1075 is actually cheaper than the older model, but still one of the best in its class. My uncle builds $40k+ custom home theaters for a living, and in his opinion, the next projector better for my set-up was just shy of $15k.

Using a Rosewill keyboard with brown keyswitches, and the keyboard is great for me because I live with other people and often work late into the night so noise is definitely something I have to consider. Love the "clack clack" feel of the switches. Mechanical keyboards are a pricey investment, so it's important to make sure that you really like what you're getting. I'd recommend trying out a Cherry MX switch tester first (http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8) and then heading over to /r/MechanicalKeyboards to find something good.

Thanks. Projector is a BenQ HT1075. It's 1080p and 3D capable. Cost around 800 but it looks like the price went down. We bought glasses too (see link below). Screen is a white Silver Ticket 110". That's around 200.

It's an incredible viewing experience, I wouldn't go back to a television after this. Only downside is you have to be diligent about light control. We have blackouts on most of the windows which work well. But need to find a solution for the high windows.


BenQ HT1075 1080p 3D DLP Home Theater Projector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LTMPOUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TCw.ybE6YDEMC

STR-169110 Silver Ticket 4K Ultra HD Ready Cinema Format (6 Piece Fixed Frame) Projector Screen (16:9, 110", White Material) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PUQPFLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nEw.ybH5JTAK5

2 Pack SainSonic GX-30 3D Glasses Active Shutter 144Hz Rechargeable for Universal DLP-Link Ready Projectors, BenQ, Optoma, Dell, Mitsubishi, Samsung, Acer, Vivitek, NEC, Sharp, ViewSonic - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ES8TC4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NDw.ybQBJ83ED

I can't speak for GingerWez93 but I also have a large bluray collection and if something is not on bluray I'll usually stream on Amazon, Netflix, Hulu or Google play.

To answer your bluray player question though, I use either a PS3 or PS4 depending on which room I'm in and the PS4 is hooked up to a projector. (This projector to be more specific: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2T6X0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) It looks fantastic.

And for sound I have a fairly generic speaker system (This one: https://www.amazon.com/Genius-GX-Gaming-SW-G2-1-3000-Devices/dp/B007TSRCZM) and it sounds good to me. I'm not very much of an audiophile though so if sound is extremely important to you I would invest in a better sound system.

If you really can't decide, you should purchase a cherry switch sampler available [here] (http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00N6DXTW4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418104761&sr=8-2&keywords=cherry+switch+sampler) (or [here] (http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418104761&sr=8-1&keywords=cherry+switch+sampler&pebp=1418104793540) if you decide test not as many as the first option provides.)

I would recommend browns or blues because they are both relatively easy to type on and get used to, but it depends if you want the audible feedback or not.




OH WAIT if you think blues are sloppy but you like the click, consider greens. Greens are like blues with the bump and click BUT requires 80 grams of actuation force, which is much stiffer than the blues, which only require 50 grams, so you still get that nice click and a very stiff key, along with less typos and a great typing experience. [Here's an example of a green switch mech.] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=st3dCj9gkrE)

Woah, thanks for the in-depth response! I appreciate you taking the time.

I'd also just like to stress that I'm pretty much computer illiterate. I can sort of grope my way through most problems and get a vague understanding of how things work, but in general, I don't possess very much technical knowledge (i.e. I can't look at the parts at get a sense of what the build will be capable of).

I don't plan on streaming all that much. I'm not a huge Netflix/Hulu guy, so I'll be torrenting most of my stuff. Regardless, I live in an apartment just down the hall from my sister and I use her wi-fi.

And I was just looking into some wireless HDMI solutions, and the DVDO Air3 looks like it's in my price range. That being said, I still just might go with a longer HDMI cable for now (this is all located in my bedroom, so the distance is probably 15 feet at most).

While I've got you here (seeing as you're willing to hold my hand through this), can I get your opinion on this projector? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0VRE6E?colid=3NIWWRTEY37OD&coliid=I3GA7QPTTLAC8Y&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl

It has good reviews and it's in my price range, but I have absolutely zero experience with using/buying one.

Something like this I think...

GIWOX 3D Hologram Advertising Display LED Fan, Holographic 3D Photos And Videos - 3D Naked Eye LED Fan Is Best for Store, Shop, Bar, Casino, Holiday Events Display Etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077YD59RN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HCiaBbAMCHCD8


That’s really expensive for something people tell you how to make for a bicycle wheel on Instructables.

If you did want to make something, going “3D” would be pretty neat. Check out https://makezine.com/projects/persistence-vision-led-globe/

I'd say the Acer H5380BD at $440 is something to consider.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009634

It's 720p, but 1080p at under $600 is just not really a thing.

If 1080p is a must then the best bets I know of would be the Acer H6510BD at $660

http://www.amazon.com/Acer-H6510BD-Theater-Projector-White/dp/B00B97ZKIA

Or the Optoma HD131Xe also at $663

http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD131Xe-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00E4JEDWE

Or perhaps the ViewSonic PJD7820HD at $650

http://www.amazon.com/ViewSonic-PJD7820HD-3D-Ready-Projector-Composite/dp/B00BBM0664

But I believe the ViewSonic to be the weakest in terms of quality.

If you do have room in the budget I believe the BenQ W1070 is one of the best values and great quality for under $1000 at currently $743

http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-W1070-1080P-Theater-Projector/dp/B00A2T6X0K

Anyone using this keyboard please consider a mechanical keyboard. You can probably test a Black Widow at Best Buy. Now days those keyboards will have "green switches" which are similar to Cherry MX Blues. These are known to be loud switches. There are different switches to accommodate the feel you like. Here is a link to a sampler kit. Off topic, has anyone tried some dampener rings? Do they change the way your keys feel or only affect the sound?


I upgraded my keyboard today, actually. I think the Black Widow is a great starter keyboard. I don't dig lights or anything so I was able to pick it up for $70. It is the one with Cherry MX Blue switches. Sadly my W switch is going out so I ordered the Das Keyboard Model S Ultimate. It has same switches and feels great.


I ordered some replacement switches, a nicer soldering iron than I have, a desolder pump, and some flux. Going to keep it alive for use with my other pc.

Cheers. Actually I think its the other way around. Gamers are particular about resolutions so they usually go for higher res. Business office users are somewhat mostly looking for better brightness contrast 🤔 but I would defo agree with future proof part. Defo shud get atleast a 720p native if you have res in mind 👍how about optoma gt1080 its a good allrounder but definitely a slightly pricier hence 1080 native 3d ready etc. Must check it out here is the link mate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHG92Y5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CcwXBbJ5ADT6G

A couple details:

Components:

I read QUITE a few reviews and this series was very highly rated at a reasonable price. Ended up getting many of them on refurb, open box, or otherwise for a great discount.

R/L Floor Speakers: Polk Audio TSi400

Center channel: Polk Audio CS20

R/L surround: Polk Audio TSi200

R/L rear in-ceiling: Polk Audio RC80i

Subwoofer: Polk Audio PSW505

Receiver: Harman Kardon AVR-3650

Projector: Optoma HD20

Screen: Elite Screens Sable, 100" CineWhite

Blu-Ray player: Pansonic DMP-BDT220

Remote: Logitech Harmony One RF (no line of sight needed)

Total of all electronic components with wiring and such came to around $5,000.

All lumber used for coffers is 1x finger jointed poplar. Used 1x8 ripped to dimension for verticals, 1x10 for horizontals. Sizes were dimensioned based upon the depth of the gimbal lights above the columns and the width of the column capitals.

Base and casement trim is also FJP, crown molding was MDF due to the major cost difference. Doors are Western solid cores, knobs by Emtek.

All speaker wires are 12 gauge UL rated for in-wall usage. All other cables and connectors are from Monoprice as well.

110v wiring is all 12/2 with 15A receptacles.

Gimbal lights from Lowes, wall sconces are Minka Lavery.

Total for all building materials came to around $2,000 (much of it in the coffered ceiling materials).

The project took around 2 months to complete from start to finish, of working on it after work each day. I'd estimate that there was about 100 hours in the ceiling construction, a great deal of that in paint work.

The columns/trim/doors/coffers are all done in a BM satin, which is the lightest shade of brown. The walls are of the same swatch, only one color darker, and in flat (to prevent light reflection from the bright projector). The ceiling is one color darker on the same swatch, also in flat. The vertical insides of the coffers behind the crown was also painted with the ceiling color to make the crown stand out more. The dark colors were all chosen to minimize any reflection from the screen.

Now that the room has a closet and an egress window, it can technically be counted as a 4th bedroom in my house when it comes time to sell.

I have the Optishot myself. It's not the most accurate unit and takes the right lighting to get proper club readings, but it's still fun to play around with. It has helped me with my swing a little by helping me practice getting a more neutral path. I used to swing really outside-in and using the Optishot has helped me correct that a little. Hopefully in a few years I can plunk down a few grand for something a little more accurate.

http://imgur.com/jakTspN

I'm using the following projector and screen. I bought these mainly for outdoor movie watching, but keep the screen set up in the garage when not in use then I just bring my laptop and Opti out and connect it to the projector.

Projector: http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD141X-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00MK39P92?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01

Screen: http://www.amazon.com/Camp-Chef-OS-144-Indoor-Outdoor/dp/B00CA370DA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02

May have been asked in the past.. but I'm hoping someone can help me who knows way more about audio setups than I. So here is what I hope to accomplish if possible:

Amazon Echo playing sound from Amazon Fire TV Stick + Projector. Is it possible? How might I go about accomplishing this?

Projector is this: https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD141X-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00MK39P92

My projector is a short throw Optima GT1080 on a generic stand. All the clips were from AtmosFX. I got them into Resolume, organized them, and had like ~60 clips to play with. I launched them with my Akai APC40 mkii. Surprisingly, my mid-tier laptop with only on-board graphics worked fine. It was a good few hours of work to organize the session but I can easily reuse it next year. I also had some DJ lights going with music. Plenty of people complimented, took photos, and even stopped and sat to watch. I'd definitely recommend it. People are so amazed with projection mapping and this took like only 5 minutes to actually map.

It is entirely subjective, but purchasing yourself a switch tester will definitely help! Some examples:

• This WASD switch tester
  
• This MAX Keyboard switch sampler
  
  Please note, I haven't purchased either of these items, so these may not be great examples, but I am just trying to help :)

I have THIS one and it is pretty awesome. Full HD, 3D ready, great picture. It has multiple inputs as well, so I can hook my PC through the HDMI and the PS3 through the a/v jacks, with more hook ups to spare. On sale at $349, it is a bargain for a projector.

I decided to buy some speakers off of an old friend. Less than a hundred hours of use, the Infinity Primus P363 towers pair, and an Infinity Primus PC351 center for a grand total of 270 bucks. Pretty sweet deal IMO.

Anyways, I live in an apartment, room size is probably 12' by 14'. I'll be playing music probably thirty percent of the time, and the other seventy percent will consist of a pretty even split of gaming and movies. Going to connect my Polk audio 10 sub (I think, still debating) to the system. All connected to a Yamaha stereo. Will be using a projector for my TV, and that will complete my home theater.

I recommend you get this

It has four of the most popular genuine cherry mix switch types with transparent key caps so you can see which one you're trying. Also comes with a key puller and damper O rings so you can try all kinds of combos. Once you decide what you want and you finally get a nice new keyboard, it makes a nice paper weight/fidget toy anyway lmao

i got it because If i was spending $140 on a keyboard i wanted to make sure which switches i wanted

Q: So the cases I've been looking at (Corsair 100r, 400c, SPEC-03) all have 2 USB 3.0 ports. My keyboard and mouse will take up both of these ports leaving none for my bluetooth receiver for headphones/other uses of USB. What is the best way to increase the number of ports? If I use this (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Release-Anker-Ultra-Slim-4-Port/dp/B00Y25XFGK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464628237&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+dock) and connect everything to that, will that have any negatives in performance/speed/danger? Or is it better to get a big 5.25" thing to go in the front of the computer (where you would typically get a cd-drive: https://www.amazon.co.uk/EasySMX-Multifunctional-Internal-Reader-Support/dp/B019GFJ604/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464628433&sr=8-2&keywords=5.25%22+front+panel)? I've heard for that you need extra headers(?) in the motherboard? For reference I'm planning on getting the Asus H110M-K motherboard. Thanks :)

I figured thats what you meant. The only reason I said something is because I was a little let down by Oculus cinema, resolution wise. I was hoping for at least 960x540 (qHD) effective resolution, but I don't mind waiting for the 4k Note 5 ;)

It blows my mind that Optoma makes a super bright 1080p 3d projector for $600. Soooooo inexpensive.

http://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD141X-Theater-Projector-Enabled/dp/B00MK39P92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419445991&sr=8-1&keywords=optoma+1080p

I do depending on mood/game. I have my desk and such, but also have a projector for playing on.
I personally love having both options.
I am rocking this bad boy - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B97ZKIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can certainly build yourself a very powerful but small PC.

This is pretty amazing! It looks like they are using a pair of holographic display fans.

At those prices though... this is either a very talented modder, or a very wealthy cosplayer.

I love my browns, they give just enough of a bump without being completely smooth, like reds or blacks, at the same time being at a more manageable noise level than blues. I can't stand the linear switches. That being said, your best bet would probably be to buy a switch tester and try it for yourself (there's a pretty cheap one on Amazon for $13: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E71W4O8). As you can probably tell, everyone has a different preference.

One note about the brown switch that came on my tester was that it felt a bit too smooth compared to the browns on my K95, the ones on the board are a lot more tactile.

• Room is big enough, want something that can throw 120" at around 15ft.
  
  
• Light control is fine but wouldn't mind something that works well in a not so dark environment.
  
  
• Will be used to fulfill all of my Netflix and YouTube needs.
  
  
• As for quality I just want to make sure it looks as good as https://www.amazon.com/Epson-PowerLite-Home-Cinema-Projector/dp/B0044UHJWY did. And considering that i bought it 6ish years ago i would think that i could get that quality for less than i spent then which was around $1100.
  
  
• I dont have a budget exactly, I want to spend whatever I have to, to get what I had.
  
  
• Dont care about 3D
  
  
• DLP is fine.
  
  

If you're worried about that, I might recommend brown switches. I don't like reds/blacks because it's not as obvious when I've pressed the key. I don't like blues because they're super annoying for everything except typing. Browns are like the perfect middle ground for everything. You know when you hit the key, and you don't press it accidentally, but you still don't have to press very hard. To each their own.

I recommend something like this. It's not as accurate as actually trying a full-scale board, but it gives you a good idea. Make sure to try it with and without the o-rings.

There are lots of good monitors out there. BenQ makes some nice ones (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824014377) or AOC (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160167&cm_re=AOC-_-24-160-167-_-Product).

For the keyboard I would recommend anything with mechanical switches. There are some nice cooler master ones (Quickfire Rapid if you want tenkey-less or Quickfire XT if you want full size). What I would recommend for this is to go to /r/mechanicalkeyboards and make a post there asking for recommendations. You may also want to check out on amazon, this: (http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425488621&sr=8-1&keywords=Mechanical+sampler). That way you can try out Mx blacks, reds, blues and browns.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor | $394.98 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $34.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI X99S SLI Plus ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard | $166.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $167.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $51.98 @ Newegg
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card | $329.99 @ Newegg
Case | Corsair SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case | $65.89 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $74.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer | $14.98 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $102.98 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1543.72
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1503.72
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-04 11:58 EST-0500 |

Here is the simple method the mech switches:

>BLUES - Typing

>REDS - Gaming

>BROWNS - A mix of both

Some more tips:

• Don't get blues if you live with other people. They will murder you
  
  
• Seriously, to everyone that asks the same question as you, just buy some fucking mx testers. I got mine for under 10 bucks on amazon and I love it. It is a strip with all the different switches on it. Don't be lazy, buy this.
  
  
• If you have a local Frys or Microcenter, I'm sure they can let you test out some mechanical keyboards there.
  
  What keyboard to get?
  
  Personally here is what I recomend:
  
  
• Corsair
  
  
• Das professional
  
  
• Custom keyboard from WASD
  
  
• Ducky shine
  
  If you want real advice, there is a while fucking sub for this (and it is very active):
  
  /r/mechanicalkeyboards
  
  Just go to that sub and ask away. Also look at pics of other keyboards, to get an idea of what you like. Personally, I have the Corsair Strafe RGB with browns. I love it more than anything. But yeah, get the switch tester on amazon, and check out that sub.
  
  Hope this helps :)
  
  Edit 1:
  
  Here is the Amazon thingy:
  
  >Max Keyboard Keycap, Cherry MX Switch, O-Ring Sampler Tester Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gY-Dxb9RYZEYA

That sounds about right for a cheap Chinese projector. I'd seriously return it if you can, get store credit, and put money towards a projector from a real respectable company. That Taotaole is probably a fire hazard to be honest -- that it has 5 stars on Amazon is remarkable and just goes to show how pointless online reviews can be sometimes. This Acer is the bare minimum that's worth buying.

Bonus: This is why cheap projectors are so pointless.

>(Becuz apparently thats the best for FPS)

Ok, stop right there. Stop everything. Do nothing.

You should never, ever, ever buy a mechanical keyboard because someone else says it's the best thing. What you need to do is figure out what features you want out of your keyboard (you mention media keys and backlighting) and get some experience with different switches. Grab a mechanical keycap tester to figure out which switch you like. Now you meet the requirements of asking people for keyboard recommendations: You know what you want.

As for why should you go through all this trouble? Well, a mechanical keyboard is going to last you way, way beyond its warranty. It's going to last enough for you to consider buying keycaps because the ones you have are worn and ugly. It's going to last enough for lots of cool, new stuff to come out while you're still using it. The worst thing you could do is get something that's cheap, only to later find out that there's something you'd like more, but now can't justify the minor upgrades anymore. I say this as someone who did exactly that and is in that exact situation and it fucking sucks.

Also, "that's the best for FPS" is utter, clueless bullshit. A mechanical keyboard does absolutely nothing for FPS gameplay. Some people hold an opinion that certain switches, due to their nature, are easier to double click and thus are better for playing games. Well, when was the last time that double- or triple-tapping a key was something you were doing in an FPS?

I have this Epson and I am very impressed with it. Yes I know it's an entry level machine and the purists will tell you all about how it ain't good enough, but it throws a 128" picture in 1080p from 11 ft back (from the corner to the door is about 11ft). I'm happy. You can count the blades of grass in the World Cup, the TWD zombies are crystal clear, and I can hook up my laptop and play games. And I don't have a big clunky tv stand in the middle of the wall.

People are going to give you a lot of unimportant reasons like n-key rollover. The only thing that counts is that they feel so much nicer. I have one with Cherry MX Blue switches on it, and it is super tactile. Some prefer less tactile and more linear switches like the Brown.

I would recommend going to a store and testing them out, or getting something like this. You will be able to feel the difference and decide if it is worth the money, and what switch you like.

That's a big ask for a 150" screen. Maybe an Optomoa HD142X ($100 over your budget) but that's 1080p and actually nice and bright (not reference image quality but its cheap and super bright).

https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD142X-Lumens-Theater-Projector/dp/B01HQCF6R6/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Cheaper than that Acer has a decentish 720p projector for $450: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPAKKY2/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00I0VRE6E&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwpuresimula-20&linkId=DJTW4J2N355YOSLV&th=1

I don't remember the size of the Dell, but that Anker mouse is exactly 5 inches (12.7 cm) from front to back. It fits my hand very well, but I think I have slightly smaller than average hands.

Anyway, I also plan to get a mechanical keyboard this year. I've already gotten this key switch sampler, and I've settled on getting blue switches. For anyone interested, it looks like that one is unavailable currently, but the 4-key version (which I probably could have gone with myself) is still in stock.

Go into a Best Buy or you local PC store, pray they have some mechanical keyboards and try them out. I firmly believe buying a keyboard is like buying an instrument. You have to try it first and see what feels right for you. I say this because the first mech keyboard I got was MX Red switches and I hate them. I switched- lol- to MX Blue's and I am in love with my keyboard now. Big difference. But explaining that is impossible. You can also order one of these - http://amzn.com/B00E71W4O8 - Switch tester with 4 popular mechanical switch type.

100% preference. I personally like reds. Buy a cheap sampler and find out which one you like the best :). Here is the sampler I used http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E71W4O8?pc_redir=1398007580&robot_redir=1

I ended up purchasing a Steel series red switch mech keyboard. I love it!

They've definitely become more affordable in price recently. For those looking for something similar and even slightly better than the W1070, the BenQ HT2050 at $699 is pretty good imo. BenQ usually has a reputation for producing better color than other brands, and even some ambient light doesn't actually affect the quality as much as one would think.

I see. The suggested refurbished projector makes a lot of sense. If you have the money, this projector has great image quality for its price: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016JYOQ3W

Make sure you're doing everything to help the projector's image. Get a good screen to project on to, make sure there isn't any ambient light, and darken the surfaces surrounding the screen if possible.

Forgive me if I'm wrong, but isn't that projector the BenQ W1070? That price listed for it has shot up for the Holidays, usually it goes for around $100 less than currently listed on Amazon. It's a really popular projector on this subreddit and for good reason.

I know you don't care about 3D, but you'll probably end up with a 3D projector anyway since those are tuned for gaming.

For gaming, you're going to want a DLP projector (pick your artifacts, rainbows are better than ghosting for gaming) that's pretty bright, at least 2,000 lumens. This Optoma and this BenQ fit the bill.

I'd say Benq HT2050. It's as good as my Epson 9500UB in bright scenes (and goes even brighter). The blacks are not as good as my Epson but they are respectable. Also I have a buddy who had the older W1070 and got over 6000 hours on his first bulb. That's probably something you shouldn't expect but still great knowing its possible. https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-DLP-1080p-Projector-HT2050/dp/B016JYOQ3W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505224884&sr=8-3&keywords=benq+ht2050

It would be a waste of money. You can get the projector I linked above for ~$600. Here's the updated version for $550, actually https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD142X-Lumens-Theater-Projector/dp/B01HQCF6R6. Anything in the range you posted will be Chinese garbage that runs at 720p with upscaling, at best.

If $550 is out of budget, take that $250 you were going to spend and stick it in a jar or something. Keep adding to it until you're at $550 + some room for cables/mount/screen. Then there's also cost of speakers, since projector speaker sounds worse than ringtone speaker on a Nokia 3310. My setup was very on the budget (Believe it or not, $600 for a projector that is native 1080p and actually can be visible in different lighting and produce a quality image is extremely cheap. I am looking to upgrade this holiday season and upgrade options go from $2500+. Even this is peanuts, considering my family just spent $10,000 on a 4K Sony projector for their new movie room) and came out to right about $1000 with projector, screen, cables and ceiling mount. That is ONLY because I had $5,000 worth of existing sound components and didn't have to buy any speakers/subs.

Bottom line is, projectors themselves can be cheap, but you need to add a lot of other things that usually come with TV sets (speakers/mounting/surface to project on/possibly extra long cables/in-wall wiring if you want it to be neat). If money is a problem, TV is an easier solution that comes with everything at a cost of smaller surface.

Edit: If you do only use it for PS4 and by yourself, all sound-related costs can be minimized to buying PS Golds or some sort of headphones that work for you and are compatible with PS4. If you do intend to play with friends, speakers, or at least a sound bar will be mandatory, unless you want to listen to a single 20W mono speaker attempt to recreate 5.1 sound.

Benq w1070 Projector

Denon-1713 receiver

Jamo S426 Speakers

BIC F12 Subwoofer

3D TV Corp Glasses

Sony BDP-5100


edit: If anyone is wondering, 89" fixed screen. Picture doesn't really do it justice.

I absolutely love it. Could not be happier. Feel free to ask any questions.

If you are looking for a good* cheap projector you are on the right track with BenQ. But if you ask me this is not that great of a deal. It's native resolution is only 1200x800. For another $110 you can get this. Which not only is native 1080p and has a much better selection of inputs but its pretty much the best projector you can get under $1000

Amazon? You are probably better off trying keyboards at your local Best Buy though. Clicky Razer is the equivalent of Blues, Silent Razer are Browns, and Corsair are Reds. I highly recommend not to buy one of those, but they should give a feel for the different switch types.

CM Storm QFR or Ducky One TKL are the best TKL options with a budget of $100.

Hey 3 months late but am considering getting the BenQ HT2050 from amazon here. Got great average review. Did you end up getting the BenQ or the Epson? How do you like it?

I don't have total light control (I'm gonna put it in a living room) so am worried a bit. I'll put blackout curtains that can be drawn when am using it though.

It all depends on what you would like to spend. At the cheapest you could do it for around $500. This would restrict you to SVGA resolution which is 800x600 IIRC.


The breakdown for this would be:

• ViewSonic PJD5134 SVGA Projector
  
  
• Blackout Cloth
  
  
• Small media player
  
  
• A T-Amp for audio
  
  
• And some paracord, grommet kit, and cheapie garage-sale speakers.
  
  If possible I would invest in a nice mid-range projector like the BenQ W107. It is one of the highest rated projectors in its price range although it is a bit pricy.
  
  EDIT: To answer your questions, I doubt there are any outside safe projectors. Your best bet would be some kind of watertight housing if you are keeping it outside. But if you're investing in a projector you might as well use it inside too and have a 5 meter screen. Screens all depend on the material. You want something that is evenly reflective which makes a big difference in the appearance of the image. The cheapest thing right now that works incredibly well is blackout cloth which is used in window blinds to block out the sun by reflecting it. The cost is so small compared to the difference in image to a white sheet or a board that it is generally recommended.

Personally, I love gaming on my projector. I have the Acer H6510bd and it's been great so far. I use it every day, and I haven't noticed any problems with response time or gaming. It is currently projecting at 135". 1080p, DLP (better response time), and most of all it's cheap. I kinda took a chance on it, because there weren't many reviews, but it has been great. I've had it for about a year now. IMO, this is the way to go unless you can afford a 2k-3k projector.

> Edit: Will a mechanical keyboard provide an actual advantage besides feeling better?

Yes. Because of the increased travel distance and more uniform feel, you will be more confident that your key presses actually registered. Like turning on your shield for example, how many times have you not been sure whether you turned it on or not?

The good ones also have N-key rollover, which means that you can press every key on the keyboard at the same time, and they will all register. I know that sounds like overkill (it is), but it means that there is a 0% chance of key presses not being registered (I can't sprinting and redeploy on my current keyboard).

As for which switch to choose, pick up this:
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8

You have 30 days to return it to Amazon, which should be more than enough time.

Thank you! That is one of the top three I have been looking at. The other which is a little under 600 is


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HQCF6R6/ref=psdc_300334_t1_B016JYOQ3W.

Both have very good reviews so I am looking for people like you who have had projectors for some time to lead me in the right direction :)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016LEAIJG

At the top of your price range but given that 10 years have passed it will be a noticeable upgrade, particularly for HD sports or game consoles which may be running at 60FPS.

However, the VPL-VW50 is still not a bad projector by any means. As long as the bulb has some lifespan and the screen has no blemishes I would keep it until you can afford the Optoma UHD50 which is $1400.

Provide model numbers of the speakers and subwoofer if possible. Sound is equally important for a good HT, and some people cheap out, either not knowing or caring about this. A new receiver may also be beneficial by itself, with support for lossless audio codecs, and 3D sound formats such as Atmos and DTS:X.

I own it too. It is a wonderful projector. Nice and quiet in eco mode and plenty bright. I'd probably go for the new version that has 4K enhancement and HDR support.

Mechanical keyboard stores are far and few anywhere that isn't in southeast Asia, sorry, but it's the truth. You may be able to find a Razer BW in a local Best Buy, but that's limited to Razer's (that's what they're calling them, they're really Kailh) orange and green switches (unless you get lucky and they still have pre-2014 models that still have Cherry switches), but other than that, you're looking at a switch tester.

My friend has a nice Epson projector. This is his. Unfortunately his bulb went out :( Anyways we had an idea of a projector screen for outdoor entertainment. The first go around was made from 3/4" PVC pipe and it was elevated a little. We guessed and checked a lot because that is what we like to do. The screen material was blackout cloth with was 8'x10'. We put grommets in it to attach it to the PVC. This screen worked just find, and was portable!

He decided bigger was better, so of course I obliged. What I didn't realize is how BIG he wanted to go. Well the new screen was 15'x30' it was absolutely gigantic. We made this from 3" PVC pipe along with some hefty stakes from Lowe's. The PVC just sat on these stakes. We used tow straps to help stretch out the tarp. We should have made cross members for this, but we didn't. The tow straps helped out considerably. Anyways here are some pictures. http://imgur.com/W0qO1DB and http://imgur.com/yS4Z7o3 My friend is about 6'2" for comparison.

Razer's Kailh switches are sort of a knock-off of the Cherry MX switches.

Your common switches that you'll probably find in keyboards under $150 are Red, Blue, Brown, and Black.

This video actually gives you a pretty good idea of the sound, and you can almost tell how they'll feel.

This image shows the technical difference in how they feel.

Since I'm not familiar with the Kaihl switches, this is the best I can do for you: If they were clicky, they were closer to Blues. If they were bumpy, they were closer to Browns. If they were just linear and had no tactile feedback, they were probably close to Reds.

You can even try this to decide on the switch, since you probably don't want to invest so much money on a keyboard you won't completely like. It covers the 4 common switches.


Once you decide which switches you want, you need to decide what size you want. Usually Tenkeyless keyboards like the one I linked will be a little less in price, but you'd have to give up your numpad. If you're okay with that, then I recommend it since it's also more ergonomic.

This is the back lit version of the keyboard I linked you. This one comes with Blue switches.

Edit: So I just looked into the Razer Kaihl switches, and the closest thing that you'll get is MX Cherry Blues (for clicky switches) and MX Cherry Reds (for silent switches). Most people actually prefer Cherry to Kaihl.

This guy knows his stuff.

I feel like you would really enjoy typing with the blues.

If you are really interested in actually feeling each type of switch, I would recommend spending $10 on a switch set.

You definitely don't need to go mechanical for gaming. I actually don't notice much of a difference in games because I'm not pressing that many keys generally. I definitely prefer how my mech feels while typing though. But that's all it is - preference. Some people don't like mechs. I personally can't go back to rubber domes for personal use.

If you can't try a mech keyboard locally, you can try ordering a switch sampler so you can get an idea of what the keys feel like at least, which may give you a better idea if that's something you'd like or not.

Aaxa led pico pocket

I've had it for a year so I can give whatever info. But basically it's very low light, 25 lumins (I was surprised it works so damn well by firelight!). But for power it's just so good. It runs for 60-70 minutes off its own battery, it's also one of the few that don't try and turn off during charge so you can just hook it up with a micro USB charger. It's only 30002000mAh battery (so that's 2000mAh per hour if your looking at power banks).

Inputs are HDMI, SD card or a USB stick (if the movies are the right formate), now the instructions SAY it will only let read a 64GB USB stick but I recently bought a sata-USB cable for an unused 200GB SSD and it's working like a charm.

Otherwise I can also use my USB-C phone to output to HDMI, but that's twice the power as my phone is being sucked dry at the same time.

I have a free standing screen I can just hang inside the car or lean up against the car (or picnic table in this case).

Cheap and a bit of fun. Has a tiny speaker but also a headphone jack. No Bluetooth.

About 720p, all the specs you can get from the aaxo site, click on the specs down the bottom.

http://aaxatech.com/products/led_pico_pocket_projector.html

Edit: but I should mention I see AAXA brought out a new fancy range of low power projectors, though nothing like $130... They look rad though. Good brand!

I've been really happy with this one. Haven't tried 3-D, don't care about it either, but the picture is very nice, I have 245 hours on the lamp, and it's going strong.

Optoma HD141X 1080p 3D DLP Home Theater Projector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MK39P92/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_0BzJwbZX48AKM

Hey bro thanks for reply!
Sorry I forgot to mention my main PC has Motherboard Asus Maximus VII Gene with 4 x USB 3.0 also there are 2 x USB 3.0 on the case so in total 6 x USB 3.0


> Common wisdom says you can connect 4 drives per header before you start experiencing any real performance dips.

If I was to purchase the following item:- (Anker 4-Port USB 3.0 Ultra Slim Data Hub)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-4-Port-Ultra-Drives-Devices/dp/B00Y25XFGK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522181116&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+3.0+4+hub

Does that mean I can attach 4 external hard drives on each of the available ports on PC, so in total 6x4=24 hard drives? If yes, would that affect any performance?

When it comes to Pool I found out about: https://burst.cryptoguru.org/ not sure if that is any good?


Also when using Turbo Plotter when I have multiple HD's does it auto detect "nonce" or does it need to be done manually?

Yeah, I hear that. I don't blame you, especially because $200 can otherwise be spent on better speakers, or something. How is your audio setup?
I went to Amazon.com and found that they're selling the BenQ W1070 for $519.

Here are some other options, if your budget is in that $500-$700 range:

Optoma HD 142X

Optoma GT1080p

The one I picked up was the Epson Home Cinema 2045 (which I bought from Best Buy actually)

to stay in a budget, but with the requirement of 1080p i think the best retail deal is the benq w1070

and as for drop down screens, elite screens are supposed to be good but you would need to measure to figure out what size works for you


but going to /r/projectors will serve you a lot better than a one off comment from me, gl

i think your main frustration will be that most setups focus on multiple inputs with one output. here you need multiple outputs. that might mean using built in sound for the two 50s with a speaker setup for the projector, or it might mean some sort of switcher.

This is my first attempt at building a home theater. I built the acoustic panels and the DVD door myself. Everything else was done by best buy. I have everything running to a small room behind the couch which I control via a harmony hub and an echo dot.

All lights are "smart" and can be individually controlled by the echo dot.

My setup:

Projector:Epson home Cinema 2150

Screen: Silver Ticket 16:9 120" Grey Screen

FL and FR:Micca MB42x

Center:Micca MB42X-C

Rears: Fluance AVBP2

AVR: Denon S510BT

Sub: 10" Dayton Audio Sub-1000 (x2)

​

Please let me know if you have any suggestions!

​

​

Based off amazon.ca's prices, it looks like you're overpaying for your Epson 2045, even with Canadian pricing.

I'd think about getting a bigger screen. 100" is big, but unless your seating distance is only like 8 feet away, then I'd go with 110" or 120". I can't tell if the Cinema Choice E-Series screens are tab tensioned, but if not, I'd go with something else. It's my understanding that pull-down screens without tab tension will eventually become wavy.

Your sound cost of $369 includes more than just the subwoofer, right?
You also will need an A/V receiver to plug in the subwoofer and speakers, but it was unclear if you already have one or not.

$360 sounds like a whole lot for a projector mount and cables. The Epson 2045 is a small projector and doesn't need a hefty mount, so I can't imagine why they're charging so much here. I'd ask for a price breakdown - they might be overcharging you for HDMI cables or something.

The 2045 is a good choice, but for $3,000, you could also get a lot more (like a Sony VPL-HW45ES) if you went the DIY route and increased the budget just a tiny bit.

One small note: if you're going to be sitting close to where your projector will be mounted, you should know that the fan on the 2045 is kinda loud.

Happy to help you out the BenQ HT3050 HD 1080p and check out my GAMING AND HOME PROJECTORS TABLE for other great options.

Right on the wall where the kids are looking at tv. I don't have another view but it looks to be atleast 10-12 feet away which is optimum distance for most projectors for a 100-120 inch screen. You could also get a short throw projector and just place it on the table if you don't fancy hanging/mounting one.

I just setup my theater using this on a 100 inch silver ticket screen. Pretty amazing thus far. I have the projector about 4 feet away on the bottom level of a coffee table. It's a short throw projector so you can place them in a variety of ways close to the wall.

Projectors aren't usually made for gaming, and there are a number of reasons most people choose not to. Refresh rate is one of them, though probably the least common. I would say responce time, resolution, and maintenance are the bigger factors.

For example, like in this picture, you're playing Titanfall 2 on console. Titanfall 2 is an EXTREMELY fast paced game, so every frame counts. Luckily, Respawn is actually quite smart, and they've managed to dynamically change the resolution of the game while playing so consoles can keep it at a solid 60 FPS. If your game is running at 60 frames per second, each frame takes up 16.67 milliseconds. In Eurogamer's 2009 tests, they found that the point where most people felt lag became detrimental was 166 milliseconds, or ten frames, of total lag on a 60 FPS signal.

Almost everything will add lag. Most things are negligable and it'll never see the (perceptual) light of day, but you have to take into account input lag, proccessing lag, and display lag. If these games have a minimum lag of 100 ms for processing, which I feel is reasonable, your projector needs to add less than 66 ms to the overall response time. Now, the Epson PowerLite 8350 has an average display lag of just under 20 ms, so these times are very possible (though about 2x longer than a TV and 4x longer than a monitor, but that's unimportant) and this is the fastest I could find. Most other projectors I could find the stats for are anywhere between 40 ms and 80 ms, so you're just about on the border.

The BIGGEST factor, I think, is maintenance. Going back to that projector I linked, the Epson PowerLite 8350, replacing the lamps for those cost $100 each. Most last around 2000-5000 hours on average, which would mean almost $200 or $300 a year on top of the cost of initially buying the projector, as opposed to a 55" LED UltraHD HDR TV which is slightly more expensive, but with no maintenence cost.

That's not to say it largely isn't possible, there are many projectors that are perfectly fine for gaming if you're willing to pay the maintenence, and it's deffinetely a pro that you're able to use an entire wall if you wish (think movie theater) but for most people it's more of a novelty and not a permanent change. Unless you just already have a projector around, haha.

I hope that all made sense.

---

TL;DR

• Refresh Rate (time difference between each individual frame) is usually worse than modern TVs
  
• Responce Time (time difference between when it receives a picture and when it's displayed) is usually much longer than modern TVs
  
• Resolutions can vary widely with some projectors still only displaying 640x480, although these are mostly business power-point projectors
  
• Replacing the lamp on a good projector can cost $100 or more, twice or three times a year
  
• A 120hz 4K TV with a responce time of 17 ms is only marginally more expensive, assuming you would keep the projector for at least two years.

If youre only looking at the normal switches, something like this would solve your problem, but If you also want to test more rare switch-types this is a pretty good option

No brainer. BENQ. HT2050 or HT3050

Fantastic customer service USA. Amazing picture. Great all around buy for the price.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016LEAIJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HmlRDb7VDF2V8

There is no easy way for anyone to recommend this to you, because switches are EXTREMELY preference. For example, the mx blues are regarded as typing switches and usually not preferred for gaming because they are more difficult to double tap the keys. However, I love the blues, and I even enjoy gaming on them. I would recommend either finding a store like a best buy that may have some different ones on display or ordering one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406166576&sr=8-1&keywords=key+switch+tester

Also, what is your budget, because the three keyboards you have listed are on the average side. They are good if on a budget, but some other companies may be something to look into if your budget allows. Try looking into Ducky, Filco, and Das. They are more pricey, but the build quality is exceptional. There is also the option of the KBT Poker II if you do not mind the 60% form factor. And as always, check the side bar, there is a buyers guide linked over there and /u/ripster55 keeps this shit pretty up to date!

They're not cheap (~180USD)! But here ya go for anyone interested! There's a more fancy version on etsy too. Definitely worth their fun (if I could afford them haha)

i bought an Epson 8350 over 2 years ago and have absolutely loved it. its bright and 1080p. plus its just over $1k on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Epson-PowerLite-Home-Cinema-8350/dp/B0044UHJWY

edit: i noticed the 5030 you were looking at is 3D capable. the 8350 is not. it just depends on your preference. personally, i dont give a shit about 3D. the 5030 is definitely a better projector, no doubting that. However, i am amazed with the picture quality of the 8350 and dont believe $1500 would be worth it for an improvement you would only notice if the projectors were side by side. but thats just my opinion...

I kinda regret going with Reds over Browns, because I think I would have liked that tactile bump on key activation.

However, for gaming I really do like the smooth action on the Reds. Coupled with some o-rings it's also really nice for typing.

If I were you, and you're going to go out and spend $100 on a keyboard that's going to last you a long, long time I'd consider getting a switch sampler like this or this (out of stock right now) to see which you like most.

You can see a side by side comparison [here](http://www.projectorcentral.com/parts_compare.cfm?add=5039&add=7265_. You can read the reviews on Amazon here. The HD20 is no longer in production and depending on when it was originally purchased, it may be out of warranty. If you do buy your buddy's HD20, we'd recommend picking up an extra lamp to ensure you don't lose precious movie time when the lamp burns out.

You can also read reviews on Amazon.

Let us know if you have any more questions about the HD20. We're here to help :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jO5IaAKTKsQ&app=desktop

But in all seriousness, its the feel. The feel of a mechanical keyboard over a membrane/rubber dome is amazing. The satisfying click, or lack thereof if you so prefer. The tactile bump, or lack thereof if you so prefer. The feel of the key hitting the bottom of the keyboard (AKA bottoming-out) or the lack thereof if you so prefer.

Mechanical keyboards are very customizable in both geneotype and phenotype. You are able to have them feel whatever way you want, depending on the switch-type you buy, and they can be heavy or soft, if you want them that way, again, switch-type.

If you want to try out the most popular key switches, there is This, it also includes O-rings, which prevent the keys from bottoming out, as I mentioned above. However, you will really only notice bottoming-out on MX clears and maybe MX reds if you are keen, but the O-rings add another layer of quality, again, if you so prefer. So, you know how they can be customizable in the genotype perspective. So, what about phenotype?

No matter what mechanical keyboard you get, you can customize the way it looks.

http://i.imgur.com/R3jSeX4.jpg

http://imgur.com/a/xK2Uv

http://i.imgur.com/1yhF5zk.gif

http://i.imgur.com/jFH4ao2.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Zlv7RyG.jpg

here are some examples that I like.

Honestly, when you get a mechanical keyboard, you will be kicking yourself for not getting one sooner.

This won't kill your budget, and it's not the easiest in the world to use. But it works very well. https://www.amazon.com/GIWOX-Hologram-Advertising-Display-Holographic/dp/B077YD59RN

This being by fifth reply to this thread, I sound like a shill. But I've seen these and used these and created videos for them, and they literally do look better in person than any video I've seen online.

I want you all to believe. BELIEVE!

Acer H6510BD 3D Home Theater Projector
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B97ZKIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b9dAyb7VA4R82

I have this one, I love it. I'm no expert (far from), but to me it has a great picture, full 1080p, 3d (if you wanted that) and a good price.

Could you clarify, do you want an ANSI or ISO layout?

I wouldn't go for any MX switch without trying them out first, as you may find that you like MX Browns or MX Blues a lot more than MX Reds. If you can, you should buy a switch tester like this one to get an idea of what you'd like.

Reds don't help gaming very much, it's more important to have a keyboard that you like.

https://www.amazon.com/BenQ-DLP-1080p-Projector-W1070/dp/B00A2T6X0K

Ive got it and its a fantastic bargain. Full 1080, good lumens and high contrast. Plus supports 3d if thats your thing.

For some (me included), mechanical keyboards are like SSD's. Once you've had one, you'll never go back. There are many different switch types though and it ultimately comes down to personal taste as to which one suits you best. So the best advice I can give you is to try before you buy. If you're unable to try one in store or at a friends house, it might be worth considering a cherry switch sampler such as this.

As for recommending a specific keyboard, I'd suggest heading over to r/mechanicalkeyboards, as there are people there who know much more than me. I can say, however, that I have a Corsair K95 and I'm very pleased with the build quality, feel and aesthetics but (having come from the mighty (in it's day) logitech G11 complete with it's software) I feel that Corsair's software has a lot of room for improvment.

Sorry, this is one is over your budget at $600 but the Iptoma GT1080Darbee is on sale at the moment (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XHG92Y5). Great value.

OPTOMA TECHNOLOGY GT1080Darbee 1080p 3000 Lumens 3D DLP Short Throw Gaming Projector, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHG92Y5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M9XVCbPCB4QPA

Great projector. Really love the Short throw aspects

In the market for my first mechanical keyboard sometime between now and the end of the year.

I ordered a switch tester and decided I'd like my first keyboard to use Cherry MX Red switches. (Switch Tester for the curious: https://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8)

What I'm (hopefully) looking to get:

• Cherry MX Red Switches
  
• TKL
  
• Backlit (Maybe RGB if possible? I'd kill a lot of time just messing with that)
  
  I'm in the US and do live by a microcenter in case that offers anything.
  
  I'm trying to keep my budget around $150, and because this is my first mech and will be my only one for a while, I'm okay with pushing around that border a little bit.
  
  I have my eyes set on the Ducky One TKL RGB currently, which as far as I'm aware will be available early november.
  
  Thanks for any help! Much appreciated.

THANK YOU!

I was mere seconds from clicking Confirm, but something told me to check the comments here, and I'm glad I did.

I think I want browns too, but I'm not sure. Going by what I've read, Reds would be acceptable, but I would prefer Browns.

I found this thing and ordered it instead!

Yeah, now that ive put my self out there... I cant find it either.

Spent the last half hour or so trying to find the video that I heard that in with zero success.

It was recent as well. Not sure if it was Jayztwocents, linus, pauls hardware, franks, or some other video.

That said, I did find these:

ebay search for samplers

key sampler on amazon

You can check with local stores as well, they may have one on hand.

Ill keep an ear and eye out to see if I can find the info about the sampler/credit deal.

Optoma HD141X - $599.99 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MK39P92?pc_redir=1412721600&robot_redir=1

Just bought one 3 weeks ago, absolutely love it. I had an acer hd5360, this is leaps and bounds above the acer, and I loved that projector.

Here it is! As far as we can tell, it's currently running at 1080p, 60hz. It looks fantastic. It's also entirely portable and has a lot of features.

EDIT: According to the amazon page, it doesn't do 1080p. However, it just said so on the screen. Not sure about that one. Still looks great though.

It will be best to define your budget and if you care for 4K. My top two options if you can go to the $500 range are Optoma HD 143X for $499 and Epson 2150 for $699.

Best thing is to pick up a switch tester, so you can find out what switch you like. Here is one with the basic 4 switches.

http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8

Once you know what you like, https://mechanicalkeyboards.com has the largest selection.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBM0664/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2T6X0K/
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B97ZKIA/

There's plenty more to choose from within your price range, but I just posted the ones I've actually researched before making a purchase. All of them are bright enough to replace a TV at around 85-100", and have little-to-no input lag, which is crucial for gaming as you may know. The bulbs will also last you at least 3 years with heavy use.

Stay away from Epson HomeCinema and ProCinema projectors, as they have too much of a delay to be useful for gaming. Not sure about the rest of their line.

EDIT: Check out AVSForum if you have more questions. They'll be able to help you further. That's what I used to help make a decision.

I dont think you can get good stuff for that money, unless you buy used, which is not worth it in my opinion.

I havent seen a lot of 720p projectors working, but for a little more, you can get an Acer H5380BD for 430 dollars on amazon

Its close of your budget, but if it was me I would save for a 1080p projector... 720p on a 100"+ screen, wont look that nice, but it would look better than the one you selected first, in both resolution and light output

What's your current projector?

As others have stated, the cheapest 4k (faux-K) projector is the Epson 5040UB at $2499 USD (accepts 4k signal, native display resolution is 1080p but it uses pixel-shifting downscaling technology to make the image look better) and the cheapest native 4k projector I believe is the Sony VPLVW365ES at $7998 USD.

I don't mean to presume anything but if your current projector can't pull off a decent image at 100", then it's either very old (aka 480p) or one of those silly $100 borderline-white-van-scam deals like this. Any legitimate brand-name projector, even an inexpensive one, would be able to pull of a reasonably clear image.

Also, no offense, it seems a little odd to me that you have a 9.2 setup with all those creature comforts but only a $1000 budget for a projector, a 4k one no less. Not to mention none of those retro consoles display anything close to 4k. Do you plan on purchasing a 4k blu-ray player? 4k blu-ray discs are the only place to get full bitrate 4k content (unless you're rich and can afford Kaleidescape or something).

I actually just got this, and I think it seriously does help a lot having these four keys around to test how you like it. I found out that blue one is too noisy and that red and black did not offer any tactile response that I expected of a mechanical keyboard. So I think I like the brown the most, but I am still contemplating between Happy Hacker keyboard and the mechanical keyboard. If anyone else has used two before, let me know the cons and pros!

Either this Sony VPL-HW45ES ~$1800

or this Sony VPL-HW65ES ~$2900 if you're comfortable spending $500 more than your budget for the next model up.

I have the VPL-HW40ES and absolutely love it.

Iv'e been looking at the Optoma HD141x, and for pretty much the same specs you're looking for.

It's 1080P 60Fps capable, 20,000:1 Contrast ratio. 3000 Lumens.

Most reviews talk about it favorably, and as soon as I have the money together, this is the one I shall be investing in.

Here's the Amazon link:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MK39P92/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I was also looking into buying this as a first projector. A word for OP, if you're not pressed for time then you should wait to buy. There's a website that lets you track prices on Amazon to let you see the deal you're getting. If you were planning on buying from amazon then it looks like the best time to buy is January.

Fair enough. I prefer having the PC on the ground, while using a USB hub like the one below to allow me to easily plug in devices without having to reach:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00Y25XFGK/

This way I get a neater table and more space to put stuff.

Projectors are cheaper than LCDs nowadays. This projector is fantastic:

Epson Powerlite 8350

and then just buy this screen and you have a great 10 foot screen for under $1500. The only drawback to projectors is you need a dark(ish) room.

$199, just slightly smaller and two arms instead of 4. Also lower resolution, but for stuff like this post it shouldn't matter too much. https://www.amazon.com/GIWOX-Hologram-Advertising-Display-Holographic/dp/B077YD59RN/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=hologram+fan&qid=1556227492&s=office-products&sr=1-4

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There are also tiny USB ones if you're just having fun.

https://www.amazon.com/Fan-LED-Programmable-Gooseneck-JUBLUN/dp/B07FFSC1HL/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=led+fans+text&qid=1556227624&s=gateway&sr=8-1

That's a nice TV! Depending on your room, you could also get a very nice projector in that price range: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-VPLHW45ES-Theater-Gaming-Projector/dp/B01FWIEIRU I have the 40ES and it's phenomenal! With a room that's 25x40, I'd bet you could find a place for a projector screen :) Speaking of which, is this space wide open 25x40? If so, you'll need a fairly decent sub to fill that space. I'd look at the SVS Prime 5.0 package paired with a SVS PB-2000 for speakers and this receiver: http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrx2200w/denon-avr-x2200w-7.2-ch-x-95-watts-networking-a/v-receiver/1.html

*Edit: The SVS have an in-home trial, so if you don't like them, you can send them back.

$250 AV Receiver Denon 720 (refurb w/ltd warranty, has HDCP 2.2 Dolby Atmos)

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs720w/denon-avr-s720w-7.2-ch-x-75-watts-networking-a/v-receiver/1.html

$90 Micca MB42X Bookshelves PAIR for Front

$90 Micca MB42X Bookshelves PAIR for Surround

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2

$70 Micca MB42X-C Center Channel

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00HHFBEK6

$42 Micca M8C In-ceiling speakers EACH (for x.x.2 atmos)

$42 Micca M8C In-ceiling speakers EACH (for x.x.2 atmos)

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-M-8C-Ceiling-Speaker-Pivoting/dp/B002YPS6T6

$200 BIC America F12 12" Sub

https://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M

$550 Projector Optoma 142X (cnet.com "Best Picture for the Money" 2018)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HQCF6R6

$205 Elite Manual 120" Projector Screen

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OLO59EI

TOTAL: $1550

You will also want a universal remote (Logitech Harmony recommended), speaker wire / banana plugs, stands / mounts, HDMI + subwoofer cable. So with this stuff as well you're over budget, but you could grab everything except the sub and add that later, for example.

EDIT: found the projector recommendation here, with more research you might be able to find better (same for the screen):

https://www.cnet.com/topics/tvs/best-tvs/projectors/

Projector amazon: optima hd142x $589,https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD142X-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B01HQCF6R6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474033012&sr=8-1&keywords=optima+hd142x


screen amazon: Carl's blackout cloth $35 built frame from 1x4s $20, 4 inch felt tape $10
https://www.amazon.com/Carls-Blackout-Projector-Projection-66x110-inch/dp/B007KA07YM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474033098&sr=8-1&keywords=carls+blackout+cloth


Sound amazon: Onkyo 5.1 reciever and speakers $369
https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S3700-5-1-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B00LU0GPAI/ref=sr_1_3?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474032983&sr=8-3&keywords=onkyo


Tv stand walmart: $65
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-TV-Stand-for-Flat-Screen-TVs-up-to-42/16451703


Side tables walmart $20
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-End-Table-Black-Oak-Finish/17126588


Installed outlet and ran cables: $30


Lumber and carpet for riser lowes: $100


Recliners amazon: $299 each
https://www.amazon.com/Best-Choice-Products-Ergonomic-Executive/dp/B0187VV2F0/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1474033061&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=best+choice+products+massage+recliner

Edit: Better Quality Photos! https://imgur.com/gallery/yLWr7

Also seeing this Benq projector getting good reviews and it appears to have multi-channel audio out compared to the previous projector I linked. Price goes up, but it seems to be a pretty solid contender.

Here is a much much much much much better projector and deal. I just picked this up refurbished from their outlet site for $293.

http://www.amazon.com/Acer-H5380BD-720p-Theater-Projector/dp/B00I0VRE6E

This is $383 shipped to your door and one of the best, if not THE, best values in projectors.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Acer-H5380BD.htm

There is a review for you. Enjoy.

> You'd need some somewhat expensive projectors tho to make sure they have enough adjustment to account for the steep angle of the projectors. (I'm assuming the projectors are mounted above so it shoots the display over your head, hence a steep angle that needs adjustment.)

Nah, I have this one and it throws the image slightly above the lens, but also has lens shift. When mounted close to the ceiling upside down you get the image about a foot from the ceiling with no keystone needed. If you have to hang it lower to go under a fan or something the adjustment is super doable and the image still looks nice.

Optoma GT1080 1080p 3D DLP Gaming Projector
"

• The DLP chip has a super fast response time of 16 microseconds and easily supports up to 144Hz refresh rates."
  

Just a regular projector. Most do decent 3D now.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016LEAIJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2E2ACbR6CPDJ9

Less than the price of a good TV. Couple that with a good surround sound system and nice seating and you've got yourself a home theater that'll rival most actual movie theaters.

Plus the popcorn is WAY cheaper.

In a dedicated home theater, 5030ub although at the ~$2k pricepoint I'd go sony 45es easily https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01FWIEIRU although buy from wherever, pretty much, because sony has strict price controls so it should be $1800 everywhere.

Are you talking about this and this ? If so, both have their own advantages.. In what kind of lighting condition will you be using it ? The 1060 is quite brighter and would be more ideal for a room with more light. The 2150 though has wireless capability that the 1060 doesnt have.

I have the same projector. $729 is a steal. The color quality is seriously impressive and it's very bright so we use it instead of our old 55" Plasma TV. It doesn't look washed out like classroom projectors at all, it's an insanely crisp clean image. Better than the plasma. It's also DLP chip so it looks very similar to movie theater quality. There is no way I am ever going back to flatscreen TV's after owning this projector.

Look at the reviews on amazon.

This projector. The PVC pipe worked great. I used 1.5" and it is plenty strong.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MK39P92/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1451977087&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=optima+hd+projector+1080p&dpPl=1&dpID=41pU-DOAShL&ref=plSrch

I bought this optima about a year ago for $600 and run it at 100" you can see it perfectly even in a well lit room with natural light during the day at night with the lights off it is better of course. You can go up to 300" it has 2 hdmi ports I use it for my xbox sometimes and as a third monitor for my pc. For the price you can't beat it. Games and movies look great on it. Do not buy a cheap projector that claims to be HD you will be very dissapointed. A lot claim to be 1080p but have a tiny resolution and your image will be fuzzy or pixelated.

Are you the United States? Here's a used 141x for $384. It's Amazon so if there is a ton of time on the lamp or the damage is more than cosmetic then you can return it. I think thats about the best you can do for value.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00MK39P92/ref=sr_1_10_olp?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1450479414&sr=1-10&keywords=projector&condition=used