(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best welding equipment

We found 1,635 Reddit comments discussing the best welding equipment. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 637 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

21. Kester 24-6337-0010 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020 1 lb. Spool

Industry standard for decadesExcellent solderability to a wide variety of metallization'sHigh activity rosin core formulationLeaves bright/shiny solder joints after reflowStandard core 66 (3.3 percent flux)
Kester 24-6337-0010 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020 1 lb. Spool
Specs:
ColorKester "Yellow" Label
Height2.25 Inches
Length2.5 Inches
Weight0.992080179 Pounds
Width2.5 Inches
Release dateAugust 2017
SizeDiameter: 0.020"Inch (0.50mm)
Number of items1
▼ Read Reddit mentions

27. MG Chemicals 835-P Rosin Flux Pen, 10mL

For leaded and lead-free solderFast wettingNon-corrosiveNon-hygroscopicRoHS compliant
MG Chemicals 835-P Rosin Flux Pen, 10mL
Specs:
Height0.15748 Inches
Length0.15748 Inches
Weight0.0220462262 Pounds
Width0.47244 Inches
Size10 mL
Number of items1
▼ Read Reddit mentions

28. Kester 83-4000-0000 SN60PB40 Solder Pocket Pack, 0.031" Wire Diameter

    Features:
  • Wire Diameter: .031"
  • Alloy: 60% Tin / 40% Lead
  • Core Size: 66 (3.3% by weight)
  • Contains: 0.35 oz
Kester 83-4000-0000 SN60PB40 Solder Pocket Pack, 0.031" Wire Diameter
Specs:
ColorOne Color
Height0.3 Inches
Length4.2 Inches
Weight0.01 Pounds
Width0.4 Inches
Size1-(Pack)
Number of items1
▼ Read Reddit mentions

29. Hakko FR300-05/P Desoldering Tool

    Features:
  • This is an O.E.M. Authorized part
  • Fits with various American hakko brand models
  • Oem part # FR300-05/P
Hakko FR300-05/P Desoldering Tool
Specs:
ColorBlue
Height2.85 Inches
Length12.5 Inches
Weight3.7 Pounds
Width11.75 Inches
Number of items1
▼ Read Reddit mentions

37. ChipQuik SMD1 Leaded Low Temperature Removal Kit

Removes QFP's, PLCC's, SOIC's, and chip components under 300 degrees Fahrenheit
ChipQuik SMD1 Leaded Low Temperature Removal Kit
Specs:
ColorOriginal Version
Height0.51 Inches
Length3.5 Inches
Weight0.01 Pounds
Width2.4 Inches
Number of items1
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on welding equipment

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where welding equipment are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 31
Number of comments: 11
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 29
Number of comments: 6
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 28
Number of comments: 8
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 24
Number of comments: 14
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 19
Number of comments: 7
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 19
Number of comments: 6
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 17
Number of comments: 7
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 12
Number of comments: 8
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 12
Number of comments: 6
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 10
Number of comments: 7
Relevant subreddits: 1

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Shuffle: random products popular on Reddit

Top Reddit comments about Welding Equipment:

u/rich-creamery-butter · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

You're getting some great advice here, and I'm glad you're enjoying the process of learning to solder! I thought I'd copy a previous post of mine going over my favorite fluxes. Maybe it'll be useful to you as well!

-----------------------------------------------------------------

Certainly not the same. Over time you'll acquire a number of fluxes that you use for different things. You'll want different types depending on the kind of soldering you're doing, or if you're trying to ensure compatibility (i.e. with a flux-cored solder) between fluxes. I mostly use no-clean but rosin fluxes are great. You're supposed to clean them off but there are plenty of 30 year old boards with rosin flux residue on them that work fine. A note on flux pens, I personally hate them. I'm referring to the ones that are built like those paint markers with the tip you need to push in to get it to flow. Very overpriced for the amount of flux and they never work right. Bonkote brush pens are the best, but unfortunately expensive. They are however refillable and the brush tips are replaceable and relatively cheap. The cheap dispenser bottles work great as well but for very thin fluxes are easier to make a mess with.

Here are my go-to fluxes:

  • MG Chemicals RA Flux - This is a classic. Cheap, very effective. Very sticky and easily clogs flux pens/dispenser bottles, but great stuff.

  • MG Chemicals No-clean Paste Flux - Great stuff, I prefer it to the Chip Quick paste flux although that's also quite good and a little more tacky. This is a thicker flux than the liquid rosin stuff, good for removing bridges and such. I transfer any flux that comes in a syringe to a 3mL syringe. Smaller syringe means you use less force to get more pressure, easier to dispense from small needles. Stick 2 syringes together - nose to nose - with a half inch length of silicone tubing. Let's you get maximum flux volume without entrapped air that will cause oozing.

  • Kester 186 RMA Flux - Slightly less active than the MG Chemicals RA but very good. Thinner and easier to dispense. Side note, this seller (Tekline) also has a great eBay store. Only way to get some of these fluxes without buying a gallon of flux or one of those shitty overpriced flux pens.

  • Edsyn FL22 No-clean Paste Flux - By far the best paste flux I've ever used. Nothing comes close for removing difficult solder bridges. It's not cheap though so I reserve it for tough situations.

  • Kester 959T No-clean - Great general purpose no-clean flux. Very thin, like water. It's a true no-clean flux if a board goes through a reflow cycle - it completely disappears if you don't overdo it. It's also excellent for dip-soldering if you use a solder-pot, which is what it is intended for (wave-soldering).

    I have a water soluble flux that I use as well Kester 2331-ZX but you must clean all traces of it off before you put boards into service, so it only comes out rarely.

    Flux - like solder - is one of those things that seems expensive when you buy the good stuff, but unless you're a CM buying drums of it the cost-per-use is so low that it makes no sense to fuss with the cheap shit IMHO.

    And speaking of flux, if you want clean shiny boards then consider getting some flux remover. The best I've used so far is Techspray E-line Universal Cleaner. Used to use MG Chemicals Heavy Duty Flux Remover but this beats the pants off it - does the job in 5 minutes where the MG would take half an hour. Rosin-fluxes clean easily unless you reflow them or let them get baked on. No-clean fluxes don't usually need to be cleaned - hence the name - but if you use rosin flux to rework a board (i.e. solder through-hole parts onto a board that was reflowed with no-clean) and then use bad flux remover, the no-clean will turn into a white powdery film that's very unattractive and hard to clean. Thus a good flux remover is handy.

    If you're careful with it you can really stretch it out. I recommend against the aerosol cans of flux remover. While they can work well they're expensive and very wasteful, and by the time you clean off a particularly challenging flux you'll have emptied the $20 can.

    EDIT: One little trick that most EEs I've met aren't aware of - pick up a little bit of straight phosphoric acid. It works like magic if you ever need to solder to bare aluminum, steel, or stainless steel. You could probably use an acid flux (usually intended for plumbing) but I can't imagine it being any better than regular old cheap phosphoric acid. You'll never get regular flux and solder to wet steel, but this makes it just as easy as soldering anything else.
u/theCaitiff · 5 pointsr/pics

Absolutely there are ways to bring up the pattern. You can do this!

The professionals use Ferric Chloride and I recommend you do too. It's easy, it's (relatively) safe (compared to the other methods), and it produces a nice finish.

You will need; a bottle of ferric chloride solution, a new kitchen sponge, some 0000 steel wool, baking soda, gloves, and some masking tape.

First, put on some damn gloves, this stuff eats metal, don't let it burn your skin too.

Clean and degrease your knife.

Next you're going to want to mask off the cutting edge of your blade. If you use super thin tape you can get damn close to the edge and have it be almost unnoticeable. Like automotive pin striping thin masking.

Take the ferric chloride solution and mix one part FC to three parts water in a glass or ceramic bowl. This is your etching solution

Next you will want to simply wet the sponge with the etching solution and rub it along the blade, taking care not to get it on the cutting edge. You masked it off, but let's not test the mask alright. Typically knife makes do a full immersion etch then sharpen the blade, so the edge isn't really there until after the etch, but for a home done cosmetic upgrade we will only apply the chemicals to the flats not the edge. Anywhere the solution touched will be eaten by the chemicals. The carbon steel will be eaten first and turn black, the nickle steel will last longer and stay shiny.

You will begin to see results in a few moments, but the longer you leave it sit, the deeper and more lasting the etch will be. Too little and it will wear quickly, too much and it eat into the steel. I know a knife maker who does one hour full immersion etching and the pattern is VERY aggressive, almost like your fingerprints, you can feel the layers. Too much for a prized kitchen knife. Fifteen minutes of exposure tends to be very pretty. I would guess that 5-10 minutes of exposure will produce a nice cosmetic etch on a blade. When you see what you like, add some baking soda to neutralize the acid, and wash it off.

Being able to see where you are in the etching process moment to moment makes it east to know when to stop. Full immersion etching doesn't really unless you're constantly pulling it out.

Immediately after the etch, the knife will be matte in appearance from all the microscopic pitting. You're going to want to gently gently gently buff that up to a good sheen with some steel wool. Too much and you'll wear right through the pattern again. You could also use 600 grit sand paper and wet sand it to bring up the sheen.

To cleanup, you'll need to add baking soda to the etching solution before disposal. Hold on to the concentrate FC solution, you'll probably want to do this again someday.

It may seem like there's a lot going on here, but it's not really difficult.

u/istarian · 1 pointr/Gameboy

Well to replace the battery you'll need to open the cart, carefully desolder the old battery, and solder in the new one. It's fairly straightforward and easy, but you can go look up a youtube video for a walkthrough. In theory you can tape in a new untabbed one in, but going with the original design/intention is preferable and won't come loose and lose your save if done properly. However, you'll need the following:

u/TheCoolDood · 1 pointr/DIY

I've only used an Oxy-Acetylene torch once - it was actually to loosen up some really rusty bolts with heat. Sucks about the cracked hose. Cutting steel easily is cool - I know Harbor Freight sells a plasma cutter now too, but that certainly seems like overkill.

As for a decent MIG welder, I have to figure that out myself. Here is the Harbor Freight MIG, which is a step up from the one I have now, and is probably decent.

If you're willing to spend a bit more, here are some MIG welders with good reviews on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500549-Auto-Wire-Welder/dp/B002VECKTC/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1411992701&sr=1-3&keywords=mig+welder

http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500559-Handler-Wire-Welder/dp/B009X43F38/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1411992701&sr=1-1&keywords=mig+welder

http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Electric-K2185-1-Handy-Welder/dp/B000QFNZ74/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1411992701&sr=1-4&keywords=mig+welder

Glad I could inspire you with my post! I can understand having a kid could definitely slow things down, but I wish you the best of luck. Send me a message if you build anything cool, I'd love to see it!

u/codepoet82 · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

I ordered caps for both the DB-114 and the DB-212 at the same time, so you'll want to verify by counting the caps in your amp to be sure I've got them correct.

Here's the list of the parts I ordered that I believe went in the 212, it might be best to order a spare of everything but the multipart caps, just in case you find you clipped the leads too short or something:

2x https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-EC2010X2-475 (multi-section filter caps, the big cans on top)

6x https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-P-600V -- .022uF (smaller good-all, two on the input selector, 4 on the 12AX7s)

4x https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-P-600V -- .1uF (big good-all, between the 7199 and 6V6s)

1x https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-T-630V (Between case and neutral on mains input)

The reset of these are the standard electrolytics, if your amp is like mine, you should be able to spin the cardboard wrapping on them so you can read which is which without desoldering anything, keep track of polarization on them when you take them off:

2x https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-ET50-50
2x https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-ET10-50

Not so sure on these counts.. I ordered 3x and 5x, but I believe the mono used one of each:
2x(?) https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-ET100-25-IL
4x(?) https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-ET4D7-350

If you've not worked on anything like this before, feel free to message me with any questions you have about doing it, and I'll help the best I can.

I highly recommend obtaining a proper desoldering vacuum gun, I've got an Aoyue 2702 station which did a pretty good job clearing the old solder out of the way. You can probably get a cheaper setup, but my first repair job on this amp using only desoldering braid was a real pain in the ass.

You may also want to pick up some chip-quik low-temp alloy like this:
http://www.amazon.com/ChipQuik-SMD1-Low-Temperature-Removal/dp/B0019UZP7I/

It came in very handy to remove the soldered tabs between the multi-part capacitors and the chassis, as I just couldn't get it melted otherwise. The metal would just carry all the heat away. Even with the easy melting chip-quik, it was still a two hand, high powered soldering iron job to get them free.

Also, you'll want some kind of a very pointy knife or tool that you don't care too much about to use to unwrap the leads as you work over the circuit. You will have to detach plenty of resistors and the like from at least one end as you go, to move them out of the way.

Just take your time with it, and only work on one component at a time, so you don't lose track of where things are all attached. Also, if you're going to get up and take a break, tack the parts back down first! And pay attention to which driver tubes your schematic shows vs. what is in use. The schematic for my DB-114 showed a 6U8 driver, but my amp is wired and labeled for the 7199, the pinouts aren't quite the same.

Also, tubes are HIGH VOLTAGE... Don't plug the thing in while you're working on it at all, unless you're 100% confident in your ability to not kill yourself. I also advise that you set up a dim bulb tester when you first fire it back up, just to make sure you aren't going to burn your house down with a bad short. http://www.ppinyot.com/dimbulb/dim_bulb_tester.htm

u/Duderocks18 · 26 pointsr/IWantToLearn

I've started to get into electronics myself, and I can say that soldering is easy, but you need the right tools for the job.
You'll need an adjustable temperature soldering iron and 1/2 milimeter iron/lead solder as the bare minimum.

I suggest grabbing some tip tinner, solder wick & vacuum, and some cheap boards to practice soldering.

This video shows how to do the actual soldering, while this video covers the tools you'll need and explains their use. These videos are made by EEV Blog and explain soldering in GREAT detail, which is how I learned to do it.



As far as making actual circuits, you have to have an idea AND parts to fulfill your idea. The Arduino UNO is a great way to program and test circuits. It's essentially a small comptuer designed to repeat whatver task you give it over and over. Alternatively, there's the Raspberry Pi, which comes in a few different models. The difference between the Pi and the Arduino is that the Pi is essentially a mini computer. You can literally hook it up to a monitor via hdmi and slam an operating system into it.

Both boards typically come in kits like this one for the Ardunio, or this one for the Raspberry Pi. The Ardunio kits with come with a lot of peripherals, like sensors and LEDs that actually do things, while you'll have to invest more with a Raspberry Pi. These kits come with detailed instructions, code you can copy and paste, and are a great way to learn how circuitry works, and is exactly what I'm doing right now. I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination, I've just done a decent amount of research to find out what's what.

There are two ways to hook up circuits - temporarily and (somewhat) permanently. Breadboards are used to prototype circuits without having to solder anything, typically using these wires to link different parts of the circuits together. Soldering components to those green boards I linked earlier is what you'd do when you have your circuit up and running and want to move it to something more permanent. I say "more" permanent because you can usually de-solder stuff if you needed a component for something.

Adafruit has a decently sized library of projects you can try. They often sell stuff in kits where you get everything you need to make something -- for example, this DIY MIDI controller.

Sparkfun has a great series of articles that explain the very basics of circuits and electricity

Hopefully I've explained everything enough so that you can venture off on your own. Feel free to ask questions!

u/justtanks · 1 pointr/Welding

I am a 30 year novice, but this AHP tig welds very well for under $1000. A good tig machine will weld aluminum just fine. Just be aware, welding thin aluminum is not easy, but you don't need a really expensive machine to do it. Many of the prominent welders on youtube use this AHP machine with success. I have one and I can weld aluminum with it, but not well. Aluminum is just more delicate and harder than steel. Please check out youtube for this machine and welding aluminum. Please show us your creations when you get to that point, good luck! :)

https://www.amazon.com/AHP-AlphaTIG-Stick-Welder-WARRANTY/dp/B076BSD6PG

u/Hurly26 · 2 pointsr/Welding

I'm going to stick with recommendations based off new equipment (used is tough because you could find a really good deal but it's a total luck of the draw thing).


In my personal opinion, I think that your budget will point us away from the big industry names (Miller and Lincoln). The big names will have units under $2000 but they will be very bare bones.


I own an AHP Alphatig 200x.. I believe I purchased mine for $750 (same price currently at that Amazon link above). Going this route will leave you lots of additional money to pick up an argon tank, filler material, and whatever else you might need. AHP also has an upgraded model of this welder, the Alphatig 201dx. This new model is currently on sale through the website for $720!


The other brand I'd recommended is Everlast. Some quick recommendations that probably fit your requirements: Powertig 200dv or the Powertig 255ext.

Google both of those brands, check out their websites, and do some additional research to see if there are better options for you.

The main reasons (I think) these brands will be better for you are:

  1. Price point vs. available features


  2. Anticipated use (you don't require a high duty cycle for a low production environment (although both of these brands have machines with really good duty cycles considering their price points), you're not lugging this around a construction site/through mud/banging it up so you don't need the absolutely most durable piece you can find.)


  3. Ease of use and adjustability


    Everlast has several even lower price point models that might fit your criteria as well. The models I chose (including AHP) have AC/DC capabilities (allows you to weld aluminum one day as well as some other more exotic metals if you ever get bored), dual voltage capabilities (can run off a standard wall outlet 110 V or off of 220 V), and tons of other features to fine tune your output.

    If you get into all this and have any more questions, shoot me a message. Good luck!
u/pat-sta · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

So the one that I've used at my job is the Edsyn Deluxe Soldapullt but I've seen some third party clones on amazon for about the a third of the price, and they look pretty much identical and have the same design. I've personally never used any of the third party clones, but I can imagine it works just just as well as the Sodapullt. Here's the one I'm looking at on amazon, and it looks to have pretty good reviews. What's nice about this kind of desoldering pump is that you can 'reload" the pump while holding the iron in one hand and the pump in the other. Just push the end with the spring against the table and it will lock in place until you press the trigger to release it.

u/papyrusinthewild · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

"Build log" (mostly pictures) is in the imgur album.

This started off as a stock WASD V2 with Cherry MX Clear switches. I bought a 55g uniform RealForce not long after, and that has been my daily driver pretty much ever since. I actually thought I might just sell the WASD for whatever I could get for it.

I decided instead to go for the ergo clear mod, which sounds absolutely fantastic on the videos I've seen here, here, and others on YouTube. I also decided that while I had the case all apart I would add dampening foam to it and paint it to go with the SA carbon I just received.

Paint and clear coat for the case were from the local hardware store. I found the dampening foam on Amazon. I also picked up a Hakko tip cleaner and Engineer solder sucker from Amazon. The 62g gold springs and lubes are from Mehkee. They were out of their kits, but the lubes that are in the kit are all sold separately on their site, so no problemo.

The whole thing took about a week, give or take, and it was very tedious, to say the least. But the outcome has been simply spectacular. The ergo clears are so buttery smooth, and they sound awesome with SA doubleshot caps. I think the case color came out great. The WASD is now feeling a whole lot more premium!

Edit: this video was super helpful for the case painting.

Edit: here is the “before” post - https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/76s7rx/is_it_worth_it_to_do_the_ergo_clear_mod_on_a_wasd/?st=JFBLDQYL&sh=a9f5b0f2

u/CBNathanael · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you're just dipping your toe in the water, grab that Weller I linked. It's under $40, but is a well respected budget iron. I personally own a Weller WES51. It's a fantastic iron, but if you're not convinced that soldering things is going to become a hobby, save your money.

Hakko is also a popular brand, but I'm not as familiar with their lower-end gear. If you get an adjustable temp iron from Hakko or Weller, you'll be set for a while.

Some other handy items are:

  • Desoldering Wick - Just a copper braid that will suck up solder. Great for removing parts from the board.
  • Solder Sucker - A cheap little vacuum that is supposed to suck the liquid solder off of a joint. I personally prefer the wick with a dab of flux. Others swear by the solder sucker. Both are cheap enough, so grab both and see what you prefer :)
  • Rosin Flux - a chemical that helps strip corrosion from your contacts, allowing the solder to flow smoothly and create solid joints. There are a lot of versions, but I've preferred using a pen like this one. It can (and will) make a sticky mess, so only use tiny, tiny amounts. (If you use the pen, keep a giant wad of paper towels nearby for when you need to get the flow going. I tried doing it with my hand...it makes a MASSIVE mess. The paper towels help immediately soak up the unexpected flow of rosin.
  • Helping Hands - Cannot recommend this enough. Typically, you'll see things like this one. But after a while, the joints weaken, and it won't hold anything in place. I bought a SparkFun Third Hand which is amazingly stiff and has held up quite well. Great purchase.

    Other things to consider are goggles, a small fan to pull the fumes away from you (DON'T BLOW ON THE JOINTS), and something to solder on top of. If you don't care about your work surface, it's no big deal. But I use my desk, and sometimes the kitchen table, so I have an old 1 foot ceramic tile that I solder on top of -- the soldering iron base doesn't get hot, but you can drip/splatter solder if you're being careless, and it gives you a hard surface to use that you don't have to worry about getting hot/burned.
u/jaifriedpork · 5 pointsr/Multicopter

It's hard to tell because you used way too much solder, but it looks like you may have cold joints. Thick solder makes it easier to use too much, if your solder is wider than 1mm look into something narrower, I like 0.6mm. (60/40 rosin core preferably.) As for the joint, what you want to be doing is heating both pieces with your iron and then letting the solder melt onto the joint; that's a hot joint. If you just melt the solder onto the joint with your iron, that's a cold joint and you don't want it; they're much more brittle. You can put a dab of solder on the iron tip to help heat transfer (the faster you heat the pieces, the faster you can solder the joint and stop dumping heat into the components) but that solder is not for making the joint.

If you need to go back and fix those joints, invest in a solder sucker to remove it. (Or if you don't mind spending the six bucks, do it anyway, because that extra solder didn't help and can only hurt.)

There's a good series of EEVBlog videos on soldering if you want a more in-depth look at removing the "noob" part from "noob soldering job," Dave does a good job of explaining.

Lastly, if your iron looks like this, consider upgrading to a variable temperature iron like a TS100 (great for field repairs if you make an XT60 adapter for it) or this cheap Stahl, they're both worth the money. (The TS100 is the better of the two, and will work well enough for most small jobs to be your primary iron.) Those cheap pencil irons are pretty worthless, though they'll certainly work if that's all you've got.

u/bonkersthough · 5 pointsr/Multicopter

> should I be adding solder onto the tip as soon as it is hot enough to melt? the tip seems to brown really easily.

Yes, always keep the tip wet with solder or it will oxidize very quickly.

Wipe the tip and re-tin it between joints to keep the solder clean. Turn down the temp if it is going brown quickly.

Your problem of the iron not melting the joint is probably caused by having no solder on the tip when you go to work on a joint.

You shouldn't need anything abrasive to clean the tip between joints, a damp sponge should be fine. Although I recently switched to one of these and will never go back to a sponge, its that much better.

To get shiny joints you need to be in the right temperature range to melt the solder quickly but not burn or oxidize it. You want to be as quick as you can while still allowing the solder to fully wet. Just doing the things I mentioned above should help quite a bit, mainly just keeping the tip tinned and cleaning/tinning quick between joints.

edit: as /u/sprenger mentioned, flux is a must! Make sure you're using rosin core solder and its also a good idea to have either a flux pen or tub. Makes the solder wet/flow incredibly well and ensures that the pad is nice and clean for a strong joint. If you solder is beading up and rolling off the surface you're trying to stick it on, its because the surface has oxidized and needs some flux applied.

u/dfnkt · 2 pointsr/EliteDangerous

Look up some tutorials on youtube. A good iron makes a world of difference. I struggled with properly tinning all the irons I've used previously which were just those cheap $8 dollar irons from like walmart. The weller that was in my dad's stuff wasn't much more expensive but they make quality stuff.

The tip tinned very well and everything was fairly smooth. If you don't have a decent stock of soldering supplies I would purchase them before you start.

Here's a quick rundown of what I would recommend:

Simple Weller Soldering Iron

Helping Hands

Desolder Wick

Kester .03" solder

Having the desolder wick saved me a few times when I had some bad flow from the parts not having adequate heat and the solder just clumping on the pin rather than flowing into the connection. You just lay the braid over the solder and press your iron on top and it will soak the solder into the braid and leave your parts clean. You'll probably want something to clean your solder iron tip with. You can buy a Hakko cleaning stand with wire brush for $10 on amazon or you can just wet a scotch brite pad you buy from walmart for a few dollars.

You can use solder you already have if it's a small enough diameter. You want small diameter so that when you touch it to the part (not to the iron) it melts quickly and you dont have to continue to apply heat to the parts. As far as actually handling the solder while you're trying to work I like to cut a small length of solder, maybe 6-8 inches and then wind it in a mini spool around my pinkie finger and leave a length of it sticking out so you have something to hold on to that will give you good control.

How-To Solder Instructable

Once you make the connections look at them, a good connection should typically be shiny and not cloudy. It's likely overkill for this project but those are good practices.

u/thatguy_x · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Have you ever soldered before? It might be best to practice on another PCB. You'll need a desoldering tool like this:https://www.amazon.com/OMorc-Desoldering-Solder-Sucker-Length/dp/B01I14V4X8/ref=pd_day0_hl_469_3/134-2481876-5881468?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01I14V4X8&pd_rd_r=40385555-6693-11e9-bbed-57e65051719f&pd_rd_w=OpK6z&pd_rd_wg=NE4R0&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=5VBDX2Q70628W5B650NK&psc=1&refRID=5VBDX2Q70628W5B650NKIf anyone can recommend a better one please do -- this will get the job done, but could be easier

​

I would practice on another PCB first (anything can work, maybe an old remote you're not using -- I learned to solder on an old PS2 modding in a chip years ago -- high bar of entry working on smd pcb components). But this was my first time desoldering correctly. With the tool above it took a while and was a bit frustrating because the tool wasn't perfect. From my understanding, you're supposed to head up the solder on the pcb until you see it liquify (time depends on your soldering iron -- mine is a 15W or 30W switch, at 30W it took about 4-5 seconds), then you're supposed to put the tool directly over the melted solder and release and it should suck it all up. It sucks up what it can that's melted -- a better desoldering tool could get it all in one go. Mine didn't work that well, so I'd have to use it on an angle for a few actuations. Eventually, you'll see that the PCB hole is solder free or the legs are free enough to remove the switch.

For the really stubborn components, I'd end up having to use my switch puller and heat the switch legs a bit while pulling lightly -- not recommended: doing something like this can pull off the traces. Overall, first go took about an hour an a half just to desolder, mostly because of the meh-quality of my desoldering tool. Do not attempt this with just braid, you'll hate yourself.

​

The Mill Max sockets work very well. When installing if you have a switch that is solder free on its legs, you can put the sockets on the switch place it on the board and solder the sockets in -- make sure you don't make the mistake I did with switches with solder on them, then heating sockets and melting the solder inside. I was able to save my mistake with the solder sucker, but it cost me a switch or two -- I bought spare MX Clears on novelkeyz.xyz ahead of time. Alternatively, you can use a toothpick to hold the inserted socket, then solder from the other side -- takes a bit of dexterity to get it right. Make sure to use only a little solder because you do not want to get any into the socket.

I have no complaints about the Mill Max sockets, they get the job done perfectly. The one thing you may want to be careful of is there are certain keys where the PCB mount hole is only half there, you can either be very careful when you solder in the socket, or just regularly solder it in, I think there are two or three of them, the default fn button is one of them I believe.

tldr:

Get a desoldering tool, do not use braid. A high-quality desoldering tool will make your life MUCH easier. Mill Max sockets can be installed using a clean switch or a toothpick. Long Live the hot-swappable Race 3.

u/eccentricworkshop · 3 pointsr/soldering

You certainly can use that soldering gun but it won't be fun or easy because it is so large (that's what I started with and used for a few years). I'd suggest picking up a Hakko FX-888D or Hakko FX-951 if you have a desire to continue with electronics.

Definitely add more solder because it has flux in it which will clean the oxides and allow the solder to flow out. You will also need to use a bit of solder wick/desoldering braid to clean up the pad before fixing it. You'll want to get some Kester leaded solder to work with.

Watch these Pace soldering tutorials before you begin to understand the basics. Heat the pad and wire then touch the solder wire to the joint. If you add it to the tip of the gun/iron the flux will burn away and it will start to oxidize. Doing it that way certainly has it's place but it isn't for this type of work as you'll need to add extra flux to protect the joint.

u/grant1704 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

How good?

Here is one that will last you pretty much for whatever no matter what you do with it, its the soldering iron I have used for the past several years and has been great on a number of projects: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/

Here is one that will do just fine but isn't great or anything:
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC

The most important feature for a good soldering station is variable temperature.

The only other things you will need is solder:
https://www.amazon.com/WYCTIN-Solder-Electrical-Soldering-0-11lbs/dp/B071G1J3W6, a solder wick: https://www.amazon.com/MIYAKO-Desoldering-Wire-Handy-Dispenser/dp/B010VMHR5M, and possibly wire cutters if you don't have them: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K

Some personal advice is get the best one you can afford if you thing you will use it a lot, the difference between a okay one and a great one is huge. I hated soldering till I got a good iron.

u/knohbody · 2 pointsr/consolerepair

The soldering station you're looking at will be fine for replacing capacitors. Its adjustable, which will come in handy when you want to further your skills. Get some extra tips, and find some fine point ones. I like to use long conical ones, as well as long small flat ones.

As other posters have said, you want to practice on something you don't necessarily want to keep. Find something cheap from a thrift store and take it apart.. an old clock radio, vcr, something of that sort. Then identify the capacitors and give it a go. Once you get the hang of it, try on the genesis.

Solder - you want some 60/40 solder (60%tin 40%lead). Stay away from acid core, its not for electronics. Find this in a thin gauge, you'll have a better time with it.

Flux - nice to have around. On some joints, the old solder doesn't really like to flow all that well. You can put some flux on it, and it'll flow a bit better. Use it on the new joint as well. There's several different types, and you can get lost in it, but you really want a liquid or gel type flux that is "no clean". I still give it a rinse with alcohol and a brush after I'm finished, but it cleans up way easier than regular flux. Here's what I use : MG Chemical's Paste flux

You will also need something to remove the old solder from the holes. Tools like this Vacuum pump and desoldering wick like Desoldering wick are good for removing the old solder.

As for the actual removal and replacement of the capacitors, I usually heat up one side from the bottom of the board, and rock the cap so it slides out a bit, then do the other side, working the cap out a little at a time. After that I clear the hole with a vacuum pump (while heating the solder up, get the vacuum pump as close as possible and press the button) or the desoldering wick (put the wick on top of the solder, then heat both, pull the soldering iron and the wick off at the same time, lest you pull up traces - This takes a bit more practice to perfect)

Make sure you put the new capacitor in correctly. Electrolytic caps are polarized. You want to make sure positive goes to positive and negative to negative. Look at the cap before you remove it. Most boards are marked, but no reason to risk the board being marked wrong.

Make sure the caps you're using are the proper rating. A general rule is the capacitance needs to be the same (farad rating), and the voltage rating needs to be at least the rated, but can be higher with no ill effects.

Its late and I'm rambling. Hope this helps.

u/complacent1 · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Could be a few things but mostly likely the wrong wick for the job. If you get wick from the hardware store it won't work well. That wick is designed usually for plumbing size jobs and higher temps.

For PCB size jobs and SMD components getting the right wick is important just like using the right solder. Something like this may do well for you:

MG Chemicals #3 No Clean Super Wick Desoldering Braid, 0.075" Width x 5' Length, Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00424S2C8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Fe5Dzb8XT56FK


I also use this wick and like it:

Aven 17542 Desoldering Wick, 2.5mm Width, 5' Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E48ERU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_9g5Dzb43FFNZ3



As far as technique, clean then tin your tip, heat the solder you are removing, re-tin your tip quickly and heavily, apply the braid and your tip on top. Solder should flow into the braid very quickly now that the solder was pre heated on the bottom of the wick and the tinned iron tip on top heats and flows into the braid sucking up the solder from below the wick.

u/darkharlequin · 3 pointsr/shittyrobots
u/rojogrande79 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I can dig it! I originally had this one but it was crap. It looks like yours is similar. Before you buy the big desolder station (which granted, would be much better and great for future) I'd do the cheap price on a higher volume pump. Like I said, it made all the difference for me. =)

u/falkentyne · -4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You guys are making it sound easier than it is.
SOLDERING is easy. Anyone can do that. Just heat the work and the solder drips right in the hole.

It's DESOLDERING which is hard. And without proper desoldering equipmenet (like an Aoyue or a Hakko), it can be even HARDER and if you do it wrong, you could damage the PCB. You need more than just a soldering iron to desolder. You also need a desoldering pump (vacuum tool pump (NOT recommended unless you have no other choice) or a proper desoldering iron which is $$$).

The key is probably damaged and those are not easy to fix without making the problem worse. If the metal tab is damaged or bent out of shape there's no fixing that. With a switch top remover (from MK.com) you can remove the switch top and the cherry stem, after desoldering the switch (ONLY PCB mount switches can be popped open without desoldering), but if you don't have spare switches, I would just RMA the thing.

A good desoldering pump is https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Contained-Desoldering-Internal-Carrying/dp/B00PGFAJWS
But as you can see it's expensive. But it does come with some extra tip tops.

An even better one but more expensive is https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FR300-05-P-Desoldering-Tool/dp/B00KWM69C4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490577663&sr=8-1&keywords=Hakko+FR300-05+desoldering+tool

Yes that's $$. And a lot.

A good starter kit, which includes solder and a vacuum pump is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1ISGH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ; not too expensive for what you get.

Once you're ready to move up to higher quality you can buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Soldering-Station-599-029/dp/B00C2BHTBI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1489522270&sr=8-3&keywords=Hakko+FX888D

u/shadowdude777 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

IMO you can use whatever iron you want, but spend money on good solder. I like Kester 44 63/37. 63/37 means 63% lead, 37% tin, which is the "eutectic alloy" for solder. That means it's the lowest melting temp you can achieve (less heat on the joints is a good thing), and maybe more importantly, it melts at one precise temperature, while most solder melts at a range of temps, and within that range it is a kind of goopy solid that's hard to work with. 63/37 totally alleviates that scenario.

Kester 44 is great in particular because it has a huge rosin core which means a lot of flux on the joints, which lets solder flow into the joint easily and avoids oxidation.

u/z2amiller · 6 pointsr/AskElectronics

It looks like you have a decent soldering station, that is really the main thing. You'll need a small tip, but probably not as small as you think. I like the Weller ETL, but a ~2mm screwdriver style tip works well for SMD in my experience. If you go too small it can actually cause trouble for heat transfer and thermal recovery.

If you've mostly been doing through-hole stuff, you'll want smaller solder. Having small diameter solder makes it easier to feed just the right amount. I like Kester 0.020, some people go even smaller. Of course there are lead-free versions of that, too, if you prefer.

For through-hole, the flux that is inside the solder is usually enough, but for surface mount, you'll need extra flux. You'll probably be fine with a flux pen. You'll probably want some solder wick because mistakes happen, and a solder sucker thingie doesn't work as well with surface mount.

As u/t_Lancer says, you won't need a hot air station and solder paste unless you're planning on doing leadless packages. If you decide to get a hot air station, though, they're pretty cheap. You don't even strictly need solder paste, I've been making do by tinning the pads with regular solder first with my soldering iron before hitting it with the hot air.

For vision, it depends on how your eyesight is. I'm fine eyeballing down to 0603 but I can't read the markings without help. I've started doing all of my soldering under light magnification with the Optivisor DA-3 with a LED attachment which has really helped, but it isn't strictly necessary. You can get those visors with more magnification at the cost of a shorter working distance. Good room lighting and a magnifying glass work fine, too.

And most important thing you need is practice. Watch this video and grab one or two of those SMD practice kits and you'll be knocking out surface mount stuff in no time.

u/d_phase · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Check out this video on different types of solder and flux:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1aONINVkSE

These are the things I have in my relatively newish lab I set up:

RA (Rosin Activated) Solder Flux

Flux Applicator

The bottle is just an example. You can buy refillable pens or brushes which many people prefer.

0.075" RMA(Rosin Mildly Activated) Solder Wick

0.032" RA Cored Solder

And finally to clean off your boards afterwards:
Flux Cleaner

You could also use no-clean variations if you like. I recommend doing some research on the different types of solder (look here). The accessories you choose depend on the type of solder you are using. I would try to use RA or RMA wicks and fluxes with RA or RMA solder. Mixing say no-clean fluxes with RA solder will probably just make things messier.

I forgot you mentioned you are using lead-free, in that case you could buy lead-free wick (MG chemicals sells it on amazon). Not sure if there are lead-free fluxes available. However I would recommend you switch from lead-free to leaded solder, your life will be much easier.

MG Chemicals is a good brand. I use it mostly because it is easy to get where I am.

u/lastingd · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

I'm mainly making things that work over wifi, lots of of sensors, dedicated RF gateways, LED lighting, relay controllers, little screens.

Decent volt meter
Decent Soldering Iron
Home Made soldering stand made with these
Flux, Soldering Iron Tip cleaner Don't use water on your soldering iron.

Component Boxes. I use the Stanley Fatman

Component Drawers for small components and "stuff" like resistors , solid state relays, solder bits, sensors, LEDs etc. These sit on a shelf above my desk for easy access.

CPU Component Box with loads of ESP32, Wemos D1 Mini and Mini Pro (long range garden work), Leftover Raspberry Pis from realising that 99% of what I want to do will work on an ESP (wemos) platform.

A Stack of project boxes bought on clearance including a load of waterproof ones.
Stacks of LED strips, RGB, RGBW, White tuneable etc.

Heatshrink, Tapes, Glues, zip ties ( got a set of sizes in a 1000 pack for something like £10, Epoxy, solvents, respirators, safety goggles, a range of protective gloves.

Storage crate of Epoxy handling and mixing kit.

Reels of cabling mounted under the shelf in front of me.

Huge box of half finished projects that got too complicated.

Stack of breadboards.

Dupont cable maker kit

Various biscuit tins full of dupont cables

Dremel

Enough "Big Tools" to build a house.

Load of 24v - step down regulators, load of pwm controllers.

A0 cutting matt

Soldering Project mat that has raised sections to hold components.

Magnifying Headset

USB Phone flexible borescope thing

About 2,000 lumens of adjustable lighting on my hobby desk.

A separate DIY 2,000 Lumens "Work Lamp"

All lighting under control of Alexa.

Since shipping is usually more than the component costs, buying in bulk makes sense, when you have organised storage.

I can build literally anything I need in a few hours including modify my code base that auto discovers in home assistant through mqtt + device based web interface and rest API.

u/aspenc4 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Supplies you'll need -

u/REInvestor · 1 pointr/Welding

Awesome. Thanks so much for the reply.

Is something like this what I would be looking for?

Given the amperage draw of 130, how can a regular household outlet supply it? And I can't imagine running extension cords is safe, right?

Thank you again for your response.

u/r4stl1n · 2 pointsr/fpvracing

BONUS TABLE

All of the above is assuming you have everything required for building your quad if not below is a table with everything i think is necessary for building a quad. All these links will be from amazon

Part Type | Part Name | Quantity | Total Cost | Reason | Link
---------|---------|----------|----------|---------|----------|
Soldering Station | Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station | 1 | $100 | When it comes to working with quads and electronics you really don't want to skimp on the thing that's putting it together. A good soldering station can change your entire experience when it comes to building quads. For this reason we go with a Hakko once bought you will not need anything else later on. | http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1458237822&sr=8-7&keywords=soldering+station
Hot Glue Gun | CCbetter® Mini Hot Glue Gun | 1 | $15 | You will use this more than you think, everything from securing your camera, antennas, etc to adding extra insulation to your components to ensure nothing falls off or gets ripped off. | http://www.amazon.com/CCbetter%C2%AE-Temperature-Melting-Flexible-Projects/dp/B01178RVI2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458237957&sr=8-3&keywords=hot+glue+gun
Velcro | VELCRO Brand - Sticky Back | 1 | $11 | Sometimes you need things to only stick for a bit then take it off. Velcro is pretty much self explanatory keep your vtx in place among other things | http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Sticky-Back-Black/dp/B00006RSWT/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458238198&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=stick+yvelcro
Zip Ties | Heavy Duty Black Cable Ties | 1 | $11 | The corner stone of fpv IMO. These are keeping more quads flying than anything else. | http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Black-Cable-Ties-120lbs/dp/B003Y61A10/ref=pd_sim_60_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41r7oTe3IpL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=1G5GJ28Z3M8JBJDW67RV
Solder | Miniatronics Corp 1064004 Rosin Core Solder 60/40 4oz | 1 | $12 | You are always going to need solder and this as the flux mixed in meaning it will be a very easy to use solder. | http://www.amazon.com/Miniatronics-Corp-1064004-Rosin-Solder/dp/B0006O933K/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1458238393&sr=1-7&keywords=solder&refinements=p_85:2470955011
Velcro Straps | Reusable Dubbex Black Velcro Cable Ties | 1 | $13 | Can be used for pretty much anything like batterystrap, hold wires down etc. | http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AW0BDNK?psc=1
Voltmeter | Blackcell DC 3.2-30V LED 0.56inch Panel Meter Digital Voltmeter | 1 | $7 | Eventually something is going to go wrong and you are going to have to ensure that your voltages are correct. You are going to need this to verify volt outputs and to figure out what they are when there is no documentation for what you are looking at | http://www.amazon.com/Blackcell-3-2-30V-0-56inch-Voltmeter-Two-wire/dp/B00ZZIXT8W/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1458238663&sr=1-6&keywords=voltmeter&refinements=p_85:2470955011
Desolder Tool | LyonsBlue Desoldering Vacuum Pump | 1 | $9 | Very useful for cleaning up to much solder or removing solder from contact pads to redo. Simply heat up the solder and suck it out. | http://www.amazon.com/LyonsBlue-Desoldering-Vacuum-Solder-Removal/dp/B003FHYL7I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458238959&sr=8-2&keywords=desolder
TOTAL | FOR | ALL | $178 | |

u/_imjosh · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Don't use plumbing flux. Use rosin based electronics flux.

Haven't used this but it looks good: solder flux pen


I use this and really like it. It's a bit of a mess to clean up but it works really well. rosin flux


I use a dispenser like this one with it: flux dispenser

u/FluffyUnlinked · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks! Soldering isn't too hard (I also was afraid of soldering). It's intimidating at first, but after a couple hours of doing it, you'll get more comfortable with it. Getting a cheap mech to practice soldering/desoldering on would probably help you get acquainted with the whole process. This is the soldering iron I used, and this is what I used to desolder. I also used this to clean the tip of the soldering iron in order to make it perform more consistently.

u/rds_grp_11a · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Same as what /u/roto314 said. That looks normal to me. Maybe you just wore off the coating. 400C is pretty high, running that all the time could explain it. I leave mine set at 350C except in extreme cases.

You usually do have to clean the tip (at least wipe it off) pretty often, like every two or three joints (especially if you let it sit a while running while you get the parts in place.) Get one of those metal sponge things
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Tip-Cleaner-Black/dp/B00J66FSY2 melt some solder on the tip and poke it in there to maintain a shiny fresh surface.

u/e39 · 2 pointsr/Gameboy

Hmmm. Let's see ...

u/unwinds · 6 pointsr/consolerepair

Although not the cheapest, ebay is probably the easiest way to find faulty systems.

Some equipment recommendations:

  • A TS100 soldering iron. I use a more expensive Hakko FX888-D, but I've heard great things about this one for the price. Try to get a chisel tip for general purpose use, it has a balanced combination of size and heat transfer.
  • iFixit 64-bit toolkit, for handling all the various screws you'll encounter.
  • Soldapullt desoldering pump. Don't bother with the Chinese knock-offs, they seem to break easily.
  • Fine 63/37 solder. One roll will last you a long time. Don't bother with cheap Chinese solder, it will not have the advertised metal composition and give poor results.
  • I like this flux, but it's kind of pricey.
  • Desoldering braid is essential.
  • Neoteck multimeter. Very good for the price.
  • If you need to remove SMD components, a 858D hot air station available under various Chinese brands you've never heard of. Kind of sketchy, but works and has not burned down my home yet.
u/whitesombrero · 2 pointsr/fixit

Those little fried chips can be replaced to bring it back to life. I am an R/C hobbyist and have friend some SMD components on boards before.

The problem is finding the SMD part in the first place. Then replacing the burnt part.

>Can I replace it?

Yes.

>would I be able to desolder/solder the repair myself properly?

It is doable but you need the proper tools. I have removed small parts like that with this type of tool

https://youtu.be/kYBxA9zJybE?t=16s

https://youtu.be/gSzfNrbDfIY?t=37s

But those tools are not cheap and you will also need a soldering iron

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weller-25-Watt-Standard-Duty-Soldering-Iron-Kit-SP25NKUS/204195328

and solder

http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Pocket-Pack-Solder-0-031/dp/B00068IJNQ/ref=lp_13837421_1_1/189-2982059-9689447?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1453860235&sr=1-1

If you don't have the tools nor the experience, you might as well buy a new bluetooth. Or you could try to repair it as a hobby and get some self achievement gratification if you do manage to fix it. So, technically, it can be repaired.

u/dlskier · 4 pointsr/sousvide

It's not a bad deal if you need the sheet and rack as well. Provided those two pieces are of a quality that would rival something for close to $100 in the stores.

If you don't need those things then it's just a prettier version of the heat shrink torch from Bernz. The BZ4500HS is a torch that throws a wider flame used to heat shrink vinyl and is available from Amazon for $50. Though it's definitely not as pretty as the all white Apple-esque version from Sansaire.

I don't think anyone that already has a Bernz soldering torch would benefit enough to warrant buying this. Though if you don't have a torch at all yet, it might be a better option.

That being said I doubt it fits the Searzall, though I don't know if it's still necessary when using the wider flame from the BZ4500HS.

u/brewbacca16 · 2 pointsr/diypedals

It's more spendy, but this Hakko model has been a life saver for me more times than I care to admit. Much better than the $10 pumps (although those have their uses for sure). If you plan on removing components regularly or maybe even attempt repairs, this is super handy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KWM69C4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/ta1901 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Same thing happened to me with a cheap soldering iron kit. I just bought better tips to use as replacements. Did you see a flat metal core in the tip after the other metal wore away?

What happens is the chrome plating on the tip wears out, and under that the metal reacts with solder? and basically dissolves. Not your fault, it's just a cheap tip. Here are some hints for tips:

  1. Get good quality tips to start with. The ones that come with cheapo iron kits are often not real good.
  2. Turn on iron only when you need it. Do not let it run for hours unattended or unused.
  3. Your iron is probably just fine. The tip is just cheap.
  4. Every time you turn on the iron, clean and tin the tip with some solder. If the solder melts easily, this is how you tell the iron is ready. Also you need to clean the tip in a brass "sponge" anyway, then tin it before soldering. Best seller for $10usd. Also on Ebay for $1usd.
    Mine is similar but has flux in the bottom. I stuff the hot iron in the flux, then wipe it on the brass shavings. Brass is softer than the tip so the tip won't get the chrome layer scratched off. I got this kit and it comes with a tin can of flux at the bottom with a brass "sponge" on top. This is what I used.
  5. Some people use a damp sponge to wipe off the hot tip, but the tip still needs to be tinned. See Youtube for some videos.


u/RockeyeMK20 · 2 pointsr/Welding

The weed burner is probably your best bet for a big flame, if you need a smaller torch then use a torch that's for soldering, not welding. Bernzomatic makes a good selection of these, look at their heat-shrink torches or their other broad-flame torches. Those sound like exactly what you want. Even their plumbing torches would probably work. You can experiment with blocking some of the air holes if you want a flame with more red in it. Also, you want to use a cooler burning gas, like propane (instead of mapp or acetylene). If you need to hold the flame on aluminum for more than 30 seconds fill the flashlight with water.

For example;
https://www.amazon.com/BernzOmatic-361472-BZ4500HS-Shrink-Torch/dp/B00834RCLU

https://www.amazon.com/BernzoMatic-JT680-361473-Jumbo-Flame/dp/B00008ZA0D

u/ENGR001 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Edit: Please make sure you turn off and unplug your power supply before cutting any wires.

Parts / tool list below, this what i used but there are substitutes out there.

Note: Main thing that is slightly challenging is soldering the XT60s, basic idea is to “tin” (soldering term) the wires and the XT60s first, then heat the connector with your iron as you put the wire in to get a good fusion. Decent video on soldering them:solder XT60s


My soldering Iron:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZRT4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Soldering Flux:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ZIV85A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder (60-40)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071G1J3W6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

New XT-60’s and Shroud:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PN6N4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Helping Hands (not required, but def helpful)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB38X8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bought this a while ago, but any heat shrink will do:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFA3OFA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wire - If you’re new to soldering and need practice, or you’re going to split your cables for Rasberry Pi, or other components, etc:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABOPMEI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Darkblade48 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Something like this will help you greatly if you need to do a lot of desoldering. Rather than holding the iron in one hand and a manual pump in the other (and hoping you're quick enough to suck up the solder before it resolidifies), the linked tool will heat up the solder, and allow you to suck up the solder.

If you have more money to spend, this desoldering iron even includes a vacuum, so all you have to do is melt the solder and then pull the trigger to suck up the solder.

For your plate, if the cutout looks like a square/rectangle, then it will not support switch top removal. If your plate looks like this, where there are little nubs on the left and right side, then you can remove the switch tops and put in new springs.

u/io2red · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Okay, so what you're saying is you do not necessarily need additional flux if you're using rosin core? Makes sense. Getting a pen sounds like a good idea here then, and will probably be much cheaper. Thanks!

I am thinking of buying these two rolls of solder:

Kester 44: 63/37 .031 diameter (For general soldering)

Kester 44: 63/37 .020 diameter (For SMD's)

& Kester 951 in a 12mL pen

Would these be suitable?

u/MojoMonster · 1 pointr/telecaster

Soldering is a good skill to have, in general.

And if you're careful, there's not much you can screw up.

Watch a YT tutorial or two and you'll be good to go.

For tools you'll eventually want what is in this kit, but probably not that kit itself.

I bought a Weller WLC100 40 watt kit (definitely get a norrower ST2 or ST3 tip as well), a solder sucker tool (you can use desoldering wick, but the solder sucker is worth the money), a Helping Hands and 60/40 rosin-core solder.

In addition, I like using tip tinner, a wire tip cleaner like this because I found that using a wet sponge reduced the tip temperature too much.

Also, solder fumes are not great so only do this is in a well-ventilated area. I like to use a small fan to blow the fumes away from my face.

The only thing you'll need to do is desolder/clip the existing swtich and wire up the replacement. You don't have to mess with the pots or caps unless you want to.

Phostenix Tele diagram page.

edit: fixed solder type

u/Elfman72 · 2 pointsr/pinball

> along with a soldering iron to do repairs.

Totally agree. I would suggest any of the Weller pro series models(Indicated with the light blue chasis like the Weller WP35). Even their most inexpensive model is better than anything I have used off the shelf at Home Depot. Consistent tempuratures and fast heat up.

Additionally, I would also recommend a solder sucker and a flux pen. You could splurge for something like a Haako Desoldering gun which works great but unless you are doing entire board repairs the simple spring loaded ones work fine and costs considerablly less.

u/holtenc · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

might need to get some desoldering braid as well. Or you can just go balls out and get a dedicated desoldering iron. They are quite amazing and take all the fun out of desoldering.

u/SumErgoCogito · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use this iron for everything I do. It has basic thermal control and the iron has a good selection of tips that you can buy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_divAyb3066AWC. I would definitely get fine point tips. Here is a vacuum that I use as well for desoldering: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U1SFNYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LkvAybGPPWMF1.

Whatever iron you have now will probably be fine, but definitely will want precision tips if you can find them.

u/seraine · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I typically use 60 40 0.031 lead solder, which is cheaply available from amazon, including prime. One of these spools will last a very long time for only $30. These tubes are available for smaller quantities.

The main concern with solder is the flux fumes, which are actually worse with higher temperatures and lead free solder. One simple solution to solder fumes is a pc fan with some sort of filter on it, such as this one. I made one for around $4, and it works very well. It also helps to mount it on some sort of arm, such as solid copper wire or one of these. There are many types of fume extractors that would work.

As for the soldering iron, I use a weller wes51, but a hakko fx888 is also good.

u/turbo_endabulator · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

The guide I linked for this keyboard seems to imply that diodes are necessary... or are those already installed and not needed for a switch swap? If that's the case, this is even easier. Is the soldering pump like this? https://www.amazon.com/OMorc-Desoldering-Solder-Sucker-Length/dp/B01I14V4X8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1526757800&sr=8-4&keywords=desoldering+pump

And yes, I looked inside the housing and the copper leaf (?) is mangled.

u/bigtips · 3 pointsr/askanelectrician

Soldering iron, $9. Solder, $2.50. Some shrink tubing, $3.50.

This will do for 90% of casual hobby electronics, for a grand total of $15. If you enjoy it, you'll upgrade the iron (and still be able to use solder and heat-shrink).

You need to learn to solder, but it's easy.

u/kaizam · 2 pointsr/airsoft

That stuff looks good. Definitely pick up some desoldering braid and flux if you can afford it. Usually there is enough in the solder so you might be able to get away without it for now, but it helps a ton with the braid for fixing mistakes and great for heat transfer and stuff.

Edit: one more thing I thought of, heatshrink tube for wiring. Sorry to wreck your budget but now you'll have a good kit. All that's left is to get your skills up. :D

Edit 2: if you get serious and start repairing boards, this shit is literally magic for removing components because it stays liquid for longer and allows you heat multiple points at once. Check a video

u/Muffin_Truck · 1 pointr/pcmods

If you have no experience with a soldering iron, it'll be a little tough. However, learning is half the battle!

You'll need a soldering iron and some sort of desoldering tool. The two I know are desoldering braids and desoldering pumps

I'd probably go with the braid, but I would youtube both and see how they're used.

Other than that, good luck!

u/Doormatty · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

If you don't have a solder sucker - I'd really recommend getting this exact model: https://www.amazon.com/GBSTORE-Sucking-Vacuum-Desoldering-Remover/dp/B01K72SBWY

​

It makes it SO much easier to repair things when you can just remove all the old solder in one quick go.

u/saripeters · 2 pointsr/Welding

Thanks for the quick replies. I've been reading as much as I can, but I really wanted to hear from people with actual experience. As long as I have your attention, would this be a good unit:

http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500559-Handler/dp/B009X43F38/

I'm not buying anything before I take a class, but this is in my price range and has excellent reviews.

u/Frictator · 1 pointr/Multicopter

This helped me. It helps pull out the solder I was able to just remove all the solder holding in pins with it. MG Chemicals 400-NS Series #3 No Clean Super Wick Desoldering Braid, 0.075" Width x 5' Length, Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00424S2C8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_xK6xwbDCA2VBF

u/unoab · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Are you asking about the large soldapullt or one of the smaller ones?


I have one of each of those, and I find I always use the smaller one as I can use it single handed. I can 'single hand it' with the large one if I invert it and push the plunger down on the table, but then you don't evacuate what you can of the sucked up solder and the chamber becomes more full and is then more prone to bind on the sides. Also when the tip clearing rod pushes solder out that has stuck to the inside of the tip it falls out on the desk and your hand, so it is more messy. I also have used my forearm/wrist of the hand holding the soldering iron to push it down, but as you can expect after burning my hand, or dealing with the iron cord for a few times it gets old fast.


Also the larger one I have is one of the mkawa modified ones with the viton quad or x-ring oring and krytox lubricated. And I found that having a better seal just means it jams more often. These are tools that are meant to be messy inside so you need your engineered tolerances for gunk and crud.

u/EGHeart · 1 pointr/Xb1Mods

You really don't need anything special. Just make sure it has a good pointed tip. This or something similar should be good if your just changing LEDs every now and then.

Also don't for get flux!

J&L 60 Watts Soldering Iron, UL listed by J&L http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NGZK0/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_tjKXtb0TK5AQQ

MG Chemicals 835 Liquid Rosin Flux, Non Corrosive and Non Conductive residue MG Chemicals http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0080X79HG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_WlKXtb1MS6ZZ8

u/New_new_account2 · 1 pointr/Cooking

I have heard it is slightly better than the standard plumbing torches.

I already have a Bernzomatic 8000 for soldering, so I don't think I would buy another torch. I don't think the extra expense of the Sansaire would be worth it to me. People suggested the Sansaire was probably just a repainted Bernzomatic Heat Shrink Torch, which is much cheaper. The branding+paint on the sansaire look like a $80 mark up.

The downside of the Heat Shrink Torch/Sansaire is that if you want to get a Searzall down the road, the thing is designed only to fit the 4000/8000 models.




u/ThatSuit · 5 pointsr/sousvide

The BZ4500HS is $67 on amazon I got one and like it. I'm also interested in trying one of those weed burning torches you hook up to a propane tank, for around $20-30 you can find them at places like Harbor Freight

u/AbsentMindedMedicine · 1 pointr/audiophile

I thought flux was inclusive in the solder for some reason. This is what I've had sitting around:


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000G31NWK/ref=s9_top_hm_bw3kD_g60_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_d=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=1W2C6FGNKNSQ1A5TFPK2&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=62fb0262-1815-5e28-9eb8-64f8ea4054ea&pf_rd_i=13837421

If I can use flux to improve outcomes in my solder work, I'd strongly appreciate it. I felt persistently I was applying too much heat, and it was just dissipating through the circuit.

u/JonStarkaryen998 · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thank you for the tips! I'll definitely keep them in mind and I'll watch some thorough tutorials as well before even touching my PCB. I did already order some solder though...I could probably just snag some flux though. Do you have any recommendations?

​

Also, the last bit was sexual don't lie lol

u/y-aji · 2 pointsr/synthdiy

I'm just going to assume this may interest you.. I really only use 2 things.. Photo gloss paper from office depot with a laserjet printer:

https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/394925/Office-Depot-Brand-Standard-Photo-Paper/

And etching fluid in an old plastic tupperware container:

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Chloride-Etchant-Solution/dp/B008UH3SAE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550866951&sr=8-3&keywords=ferric+chloride

Print off your circuit (I use Fritzing to make my circuit designs) onto the inkjet paper.. It adheres pretty well.. Transfer with an iron and a roller.. It takes 3-4 minutes and should get so hot that the paper kind of sticks to it.. Peel off the paper, I usually have to run it under water to get all the paper off.. You should be able to rub on it w/o hurting the transfer once it gets to this point..

All you'll be left w/ is a mask.. There'll be some spots that didn't transfer.. Just use a black sharpie to mask those spots in..

Drop it in the fluid for about 6-12 minutes.. It only takes enough to barely cover the board.. And that amount of fluid can do 3-5 boards. Close the tupperware and shake it like one of those old pictures people talk about..

Drill your holes w/ a dremel.. Boom.. Done.. I have probably done 20 or 30 of these and they're a pain in the butt, but you can have them done in an hour and know if your design works before sending off and wasting money.

I called my city disposal team and they said that it's safe to dispose of in the drain with lots of water.. Alternatively, you can soak paper towels with the material after it's spent and throw those out.. I wear a vapor mask, goggles and gloves when I use the ferric chloride, but I think I go overboard.. Just gloves and goggles are probably fine. Always make sure you're in a well ventilated area..

​

​

u/ZReport · 1 pointr/snes

Nice! Please let me know what how it goes!

There are a number of ways to desolder, and the better ways increase in price and can hit up your pockets really hard. I personally use a desoldering braid for these small time projects, but you could always use a desoldering pump as well:

https://www.amazon.com/OMorc-Desoldering-Solder-Sucker-Length/dp/B01I14V4X8/ref=zg_bs_8107034011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0SCH7RKJR6YGQEBFH5HT

You'll want to use your soldering iron to heat up the area that you want to desolder in one hand and then use the pump to suck up the solder in the other. The pump is spring loaded -- you push it down and it will click into place until you need to have it suck up the solder. You'll get it with some practice! :D

---

Alternatively I find desoldering braid personally easy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T8UPQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This particular braid is very high quality and works even without any flux (though flux helps alot and I recommend it). You can simply use the braid, place it over the area and heat it up with the iron to wick up the solder. If you have some sort of flux, you can flux the tip for easier wicking.

There are also desoldering bulb suckers that heat up, allowing you to depress and suck up the solder, but results may very and the tips on those are usually poor if you are paying +/- 20$.

I'd recommend one of those pumps!

u/Landoperk · 1 pointr/Multicopter

The quality of solder is important. Don't skimp out. Example of good solder that would fit your needs.

u/NoobSamoht · 4 pointsr/diypedals

I highly recommend using one of these to remove components: https://www.amazon.com/OMorc-Desoldering-Solder-Sucker-Length/dp/B01I14V4X8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519764865&sr=8-5&keywords=solder+remover it will make the job much cleaner, I wish I had brought one of these years ago.

u/JavaGiant865 · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This is highly recommended: Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020 1 lb. Spool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Tn0vybNY3QZ01

And if you plan more than one project this soldering iron is great: Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Bo0vyb4YNQS1G

u/n_choose_k · 2 pointsr/Cooking

Not in time for this use, but for the next time around consider this: http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-BZ4500HS-Electricians-Shrink-Torch/dp/B00834RCLU. I purchased one the other week and it's exactly what I needed to take things to the next level. Used to use broiler, grill, or hot pan, but this torch is the perfect tool for anything smaller than a roast.

u/JosephFaolan · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Do not use that solder.

Do not use that solder iron.

I use 63/37 resin core solder mostly.

I use a Hakko FX888D (also get T18 compatible wedge tips).

Try this solder. I am using a thicker solder now, but I am going to switch to this one probably.

Some more advice: the wattage you use with cheap soldering irons like that depends on many factors. Do not focus on the temperature/wattage alone. What you want is to get the contact hot enough within 2 seconds to form a good joint. So, touch the iron, two seconds, touch solder, immediately wets and forms the joint (and you remove the solder and iron as the situation dictates).

u/pabloescobyte · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Those are fine but honestly you don't need all those extra bit and bobs.

Just get the same basic soldering iron off Amazon, a desoldering iron like this one or a desoldering pump.

u/ProfessionalHobbyist · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I soldered my ergodox PCBs with my hakko set to 650 F (about 340-350 C). Just don't keep the iron on the switch solder posts any longer than necessary. Basically, if you don't have a perfect joint in 3 seconds, you did something wrong. The traces are small enough on keyboard PCBs that you probably don't even need that high of a temp, but I think it helped to make nice shiny joints when using lead-free solder.

The same temps worked with a separate de-soldering pump that I have that is similar to this one. I haven't used the integrated kind that you linked to before. Over 400C, you are risking burning up small traces and delicate components, but you are probably okay if you work fast. If you really wanted to control temp on that cheap desoldering iron, you could plug it in through a variable transformer.

Soldering components to a huge, thick PCB ground plane on my tesla coil kit, on the other hand... that was more of a challenge. I dialed it up to 750F (400C), and should have been using extra flux.

u/El_Dubious_Mung · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

ChipQwik - use it like solder. It mixes with the solder and lowers its melting point, making it stay molten longer. This is good for desoldering tiny things.

Flux pen - flux is a liquid that helps guide the solder. Any youtube video about soldering can provide an explanation.

Solder sucker - melt the solder, suck it up

Solder wick - melt the solder, soak it up.

You don't need to get these exact products, but they're all handy. You can get by without the chipqwik, but the rest should be in every soldering toolkit. Also remember that solder will like to move towards the soldering iron, so you can kind of use it to pick up any excess solder if you do it right.

I should note that I've never done a usb port before, so I can't guide you on exactly how to do it. I'm a bit of a newb myself. Just devour a few youtube tutorials, and try it. Soldering is really a skill learned by doing, and like I said, you have nothing to lose at this point. No point in being afraid to fail now.

u/dro524 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Since the Majestouch is plate-mounted I don't believe you can open the switch without desoldering. Desoldering isn't too hard assuming you have the right tools. I just did a huge desoldering project with an iron, some solder, and a little vacuum pump like this.

Sometimes just heating up the existing solder with the pump doesn't work too well, so you might try adding a little extra solder to the connection before you vacuum it up. That way it all comes off in a huge chunk. Then it's just a matter of popping the switch out. Have a look at the repair guide.

u/morbetter · 1 pointr/AnnePro

I'm planning on doing the same when Novelkeys restocks the Box Royals.

You're going to want a solder sucker. I've used both of these with great success. The first link works well on switches; I desoldered an entire TKL in under an hour today with mine. The second one works well for smaller things like LEDs and Pro Micros. It would also work for switches, but would clog up fairly quickly and might need more than one pass per joint.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K72SBWY/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4/

u/Curudan · 2 pointsr/originalxbox

Here's a few pictures I just took. The neck on the rubber cover is a little too tight to fit over the 360 cables, so I had to stretch it quite a few times with a needle nose pliers before it would squeeze on.

Just make sure you remove the metal covers on the original Xbox cable carefully. Then you can reassemble them on your finished product. Just make sure you test it before you go putting it back together. And It would be a good idea to cover you new solder joints with at least a little hot glue to help protect them from breaking off.

As for the solder, I just used some cheap stuff off Amazon. I think it was this stuff. But I'm no solder expert, so that stuff could be terrible for all I know.

As for s/pdif, while I suspect it's possible, but I haven't seen any schematics for that. So you're on your own there.

u/Caffeinado · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hello! Looking to replace an LED on my Razer Black Widow, and just want to make sure that this
is ok for the job. I don't plan on soldering anything else on this keyboard.

Yea? Nay?

u/Elbarfo · 1 pointr/metalworking

Nice price, but No aluminum with that one. :(

I got the AlphaTig 200 and am pretty happy with it.

u/ruhe · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Build Log 5: Viterbi


Highlights

u/LobsterThief · 1 pointr/electronics

Also, I recommend one of these for cleaning and tinning your tip properly between solders. :)

u/SteelCogs · 2 pointsr/Welding

If you can't go over $1000 look at the AlphaTIG 200X or the PrimeWeld TIG225X for an AC/DC machine. You need AC for aluminum but if you find a good multiprocess AC/DC machine for $1000 you'd be getting a steal. I just don't think there are any out there.

I'm personally just getting into tig welding with no experience and I bought the PrimeWeld machine when it was in stock (it seems to be popular and running out often). So far it's worked for me, most of any issues I've had have all been operator error since I'm new. I did spend another $100 to get a better foot controller for it though, the one that comes with either of the machines I linked are pretty bad, but still usable. I always felt like I had to slam it to get my max amp setting.

Also you asked in another comment about DCEN and DCEP. For aluminum, you need AC because you need to "clean" through the oxide layer before you can make a puddle. Using AC uses a cycle of both DCEN and DCEP as DCEP is what "cleans" through the oxide layer and DCEN is what actually makes the puddle. Inverter machines like the ones I mentioned above you can usually set the balance of this cycle for either more cleaning or more penetration. Too much cleaning (DCEP) and you'll burn up your tungsten, too much penetration (DCEN) and you won't get a nice, clean, uncontaminated puddle and it will all go downhill from there. Hopefully I illustrated that correctly/easy enough to understand.

u/rockstar504 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I agree here. If you can spring for some "good" stuff, Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 (in your diameter of choice) is my go-to all purpose solder, and a 1lb spool lasts a really long time.

Also, some rework flux is good for fixing mistakes. I can personally recommend ChipQuik

Unless I specifically need solder paste, I can do anything with those two products.

u/kentrol79 · 3 pointsr/sousvide

I purchased the BernzOmatic 361472 BZ4500HS Heat Shrink Torch its great it disperses the flame so you don't get that unpleasant taste. For the torch you have you can purchase the tip from eBay and just screw it on your TS8000, its on eBay and called WORTHINGTON Torch Tip,Propane/MAPP,Use with 4NE84

u/kjhgsdflkjajdysgflab · 3 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

https://smile.amazon.com/AHP-AlphaTIG-Stick-Welder-WARRANTY/dp/B076BSD6PG

If your boss doesn't already know of them. They are great for the price.

u/ben827 · 2 pointsr/Nerf

I have used the hot knife for cutting ropes and even very thin woods. I wouldn't recommend it if you're trying to cut through plastic. Actually, I wouldn't recommend anything heated for cutting through plastic (when you burn plastic, the fumes can be toxic). You could try to use it for cutting wires, but why would you need to when you can just desolder the parts you don't need and solder them in different places? If you're planning on taking all the wires out, just disconnect them from the switches and take them out. No need for a hot knife. But for the sake of answering your question, you could use a hot knife for cutting through wires if you're careful. I'd argue that it may take a skilled hand (mind you, my hands aren't really steady so even I don't consider my hands too "skilled") to cut through the wires without hitting the plastic parts of the blaster. I wouldn't worry about melting through them, though because if you get everything out of the way and pay attention to what you're doing, you should be fine. Using a hot knife is something I haven't really heard of or witnessed in the rewiring process not would I try doing it considering how small the wires are and how precise I'd have to be.

Just something to consider. Hopefully I helped you and didn't make you more on the fence after saying that.

Also, you should take /u/darthskids advice. YouTube is a better place to go than reddit for precise instructions and tutorials.

desoldering pump

u/skizztle · 2 pointsr/fpvracing

Yeah those are cold joints and could come loose at some point. I will say I am a decent solderer and I had issues soldering the signal ground on the BF board.

Flux is magic and you need to order some ASAP. For stuff like pads and holes I like a liquid flux pen. Amazon

u/BewareOfLyon · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Here's a super cheap solder pencil: Link

and some solder

Good quality adjustable irons can be quite a bit more expensive, but this should work for a simple cable swap.

u/streakybacon · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yeah, the Edysn Soldapullt works really well.

u/The_Royal · 1 pointr/mechmarket

De-Soldering is definitely one of the most annoying things involved in this hobby lol.

If I could...I would love to buy one of those Hakko De-Soldering Pump...if it wasn't like $350.00 LOL.

Would make my life so much better

u/abyssea · 1 pointr/soldering

Thanks for the information, what temperature should I be using?

I have some braid I can use to try to get it out tonight and maybe clean up the board. Originally I used this flux, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DNR01Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but my pen is this (which is the one I normally stick with) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OC3VMU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/alose · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I find Kester to be a pretty decent solder.

u/Raine342 · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

I bought this one off of Amazon for $20, and it was exactly what I needed.

Don't forget to buy some paperclips/wire to hang it on, nail polish to cover up the important bits (pivot hole, threads, detent, lock faces), nail polish remover to remove the nail polish, and a container to put it all in. I used a large mason jar for that.

u/bradn · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

There are also special solder alloys (see: chipquik) that melt rather low temperature and can aid in removing parts like that.

u/AOfool · 1 pointr/xboxone

What copper? Something like this?

u/hansmoman · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

The solder I linked is 0.8mm. A lot of those Amazon descriptions are wonky, but just check the manufacturers part number. I think Dave suggested 63/37 with <0.5mm, so you can try to find that if you like.

http://www.kester.com/products/product/44-flux-cored-wire

They make more types than you can shake a stick at. A lot of them aren't even stocked anywhere.

Edit: Found one: https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJWC

u/TurnbullFL · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Been using one of these whenever the wick doesn't work.
Edsyn Deluxe Soldapullt

Good for when there is a lot of solder in a plated through hole.

u/2infinitum · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

The Soldapullt is fantastic. If people havn't used one, then it makes sense that they are steering you towards the bargain bin. Get the Edsyn. The large diameter barrel makes a massive difference in the volume of air that this thing draws in. I likewise had the same concern as you regarding tip degradation so I picked up a couple spare tips when I bought mine. I'm still on the first tip though. For the record, silicone begins to degrade above 300C (it doesn't melt per se), while PTFE's melting point is 326C. I've never had a jamming issue and the one handed operation of flip and bump (it has integral bumper for this) makes it a fast workhorse.

I suppose if you're really trying to save dough, you can get a $6 knockoff:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K72SBWY

or this $9 one if you want spare tips:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U1SFNYE

UK cheapie:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ZBUCNE0

Can't vouch for the durability of any of these clones though.

u/Kensik · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Thanks i was looking at that one as well but was not on sale at the time im ordering it now at 1/2 off thanks. The only problem with the solder you linked is its being mailed from china so eta on it geting here is Jan. 26-Feb. 13 was just going to pick This up its the only one i can find with Prime that wont take a month or more to get here.

u/indirect_storyteller · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Continuing this thought process, I just got this iron and [this](
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJWC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) solder in the mail the other day and they've treated me incredibly well. If that's out of our price range then I suggest getting only the solder and going for a cheaper iron.

u/teddyzaper · 1 pointr/Multicopter

either this product or just use the sponge that comes with it. The sponge isn't very good for the soldering iron tip. I'd recommend the tip cleaner.

u/Kayanota · 2 pointsr/Bladesmith

I wear nitrile gloves while sanding, and the blade went right from sanding, to a cotton cloth, to the bath. The steel is O1 from Jantz, so I trust that, and the bath was made using this.

I haven't sanded it other than a water and cloth rub down, because I am still debating if I like the look.

u/Mochaboys · 7 pointsr/Multicopter

Give this a shot but mind your temperatures. 600-650F is all you need to back those out.

clip the straight pins short then apply some chipquik to the nubs - and heat it all at one time. It should only take about 10-15 seconds and the whole header assembly will just slide out.

Finish by cleaning up the through holes with plenty of flux and solder braid.

http://www.amazon.com/ChipQuik-SMD1-Leaded-Temperature-Removal/dp/B0019UZP7I

u/oddeeoh · 1 pointr/MouseReview

Get solder wick (not the exact one I used, just one of the first ones I found on Amazon) and make sure to get your soldering iron hot enough. I first tried at 300 C and was having a heck of a time. Tried again at 400 C and everything went much smoother.

u/Network_operations · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This is the one that I have

It's pretty cheap but it gets the job done most of the time.

u/barryp_ · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I would go with something decent.. I hate seeing people discouraged by anything because their tools suck, not because of their technique.... maybe equivalent to recommending a very cheap hand plane?

If you're not going to do any structural welding, I would recommend a 110v mig. I like Hobart... like a Miller without paying for the brand I guess.

http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500559-Handler-Wire-Welder/dp/B009X43F38/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456964203&sr=8-1&keywords=hobart+mig+welder

u/Noobcoder_and_Maker · 1 pointr/arduino

You might find a solder sucker - https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG.
Or some de-soldering braid/wick - https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Clean-Desoldering-Length/dp/B00424S2C8 useful for removing the solder easily when removing header pins. Also before you try de-soldering, remove the plastic part from the pins by pulling it off with some pliars, this allows you to remove the pins 1 by 1, preventing the solder pads getting to hot and coming off.

u/MyWorkThrowawayShhhh · 1 pointr/knifemaking

> ferric chloride acid (which you might be able to get online or from computer supply stores)

I've gotten it from Amazon. This is the one.

u/sjmuller · 1 pointr/sousvide

The instruction manual for the Sansaire Searing Kit confirms that it is simply a model BZ4500HS torch with a new paint job. http://www.bernzomatic.com/content/uploads/2015/08/Sansaire-Searing-Kit-Manual.pdf

The BZ4500HS torch is available for $70 on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00834RCLU/ Couple it with a sheet pan and cooling rack that you likely already own and you're set.

u/ca178858 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Two things- iron may have trouble heating that much mass, and/or use flux.

Something like 'MG Chemicals Liquid Rosin Flux, Non Corrosive and Non Conductive residue'

Is a game changer, and should be recommended more often in my opinion.

u/bmilcs · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you're going the solder sucker route, get the Soldapult. Trust me. Save yourself the aggravation and decrease the chances of ruining your expensive keyboards.

I went through 2 cheapies. You will appreciate it in the end. Or as posted a day or two ago, get a desoldering iron with the bulb attached. I kinda wish and still may buy one... though I'm more about building than modding at this point. It's just such a pain in the ass.

u/combataran · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

This, this and this should get you started.

u/LippencottElvis · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Kester 83-4000-0000 Solder Pocket Pack, 0.031" Wire Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJNQ

u/ShawnS4363 · 1 pointr/Welding

How about THIS one?

u/Duchat · 1 pointr/Fixxit

Try one of these. Then resolder.

u/hayseed_byte · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

A solder sucker and solder wick are definitely necessary for fixing mistakes. I use one like this.

u/dittani · 2 pointsr/olkb

Use a solder sucker or some desoldering wick to remove the excess solder that is touching the logo.

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00424S2C8

u/dougg3 · 1 pointr/electronics

No, that's solder paste made by the same company. What I'm talking about is this stuff.

Edit: Oh, what you linked is low-temperature solder paste. Dunno the use case for that...but what I was talking about is the actual low-temperature solder wire that I linked.

u/badon_ · 1 pointr/XboxOneHelp

> Can you point me in the direction of a guide to fix it? Thanks for the response, also.

r/AskElectronics can help you find the problem and fix it. You will need a soldering iron and related accessories. This is what I got for myself to fix my mouse:

u/TsuDoughNym · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I ordered one of these. Should I cancel the order?

u/battery_pack_man · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

This it?

Or this?

If not here is a good wick and sucker

u/welding_guru · 3 pointsr/Weldingporn

Soldering iron for sure. If you're serious about it then I would get a large one (60-70 watts) and a small one (30 watts), the pencil type are cheap. Or just get one 40 watt.

Get good solder, seriously, you'll fucking hate life with shitty solder. I used to be able to buy it locally but the mom 'n pop store went out of business, and I've tried every solder at Home Depot and they all suck. Both of these are good, however, and you should be able to solder as small of a wire you want with that.

u/weirdal1968 · 8 pointsr/audiophile

Easy-peasey repair even for a beginner.

First you'll need a decent soldering iron like this, some 63/37 solder and a solder sucker like this.

You'll need to remove the old solder on the three pads to the left of where the connector was mounted. Heat up the soldering iron, touch it to each pad and add a tiny dab of solder so the whole thing melts. If it doesn't melt within 5 seconds you'll need to turn up the iron temperature. Then grab your soldapullt, cock it by pushing down on the plunger until it clicks, put it on top of the liquid solder and push its button. The solder should get sucked into the soldapullt and the joint should be shiny and flat with the board. Repeat this for all three pads.

Now place the old headphone socket so the solder tabs on its left side line up with the circuit board pads and its case hole. Grab the soldering iron and touch it to one of the solder pads then add enough solder to cover the pad and the tab. Pull the iron away and let the joint cool for 10 seconds. Make sure the jack is still aligned and if it is then solder the other pads.

u/TheMuffinMan91 · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Chip Quik is a low-temperature solder alloy. All you have to do is flood the pins with this stuff and your part will come right off. I have used it for large SMD devices with no trouble.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kyaz4Zrd78

http://www.amazon.com/ChipQuik-SMD1-Low-Temperature-Removal/dp/B0019UZP7I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411674018&sr=8-1&keywords=chip+quik

It is kind of expensive, but a little goes a long way.

u/we_cant_stop_here · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

It almost seems to me like there's a problem with the trace getting broken somehow, which is not exactly normal during regular soldering. I'd try reflowing the joints with some flux like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNR01Q

then if that doesn't help with continuity, try soldering some wire along the affected trace, and see if you have continuity that way.

u/unclebrudy · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you can swing it, this is a boss. I only sold mine because I hate desoldering no matter how easy it is.

u/FizzBitch · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

My recommendations, and what I have used for a long time. Really don't go super cheep on your iron, you will regret it:

Weller WES51

Long Conical Tip Really necessary if you are going to be building things with small components.

Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020 the link is to a full pound which you might not want to spend the money on right away. The price seems to have doubled in the last 3 months at amazon for some reason. But plenty of places sell Kester Solder

u/MaddSilence · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Don’t forget, you need one with a tip the size of a pen. Any bigger and you will burn your pcb. This is a decent one that I use

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Weller ST7 ST Series Conical Solder Tip Hobbyist for WP25, WP30 and WP35 Irons, 0.31" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BSP4K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

OMorc Desoldering Wick, Solder Sucker & Solder Braid (2.5mm Width, 1.5m Length) – Desoldering Vacuum Pump Solder Removal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I14V4X8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Sometimes for the smaller welds, like on LEDs, try adding solder before sucking.

u/illuxion · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Remove the plastic piece if you can get it off, or snip the pins close to the plastic. Remove the pins 1 by 1, then use a solder sucker and wick to get as much off as you can.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

AmazonSmile Link: OMorc Desoldering Wick, Solder Sucker & Solder Braid (2.5mm Width, 1.5m Length) – Desoldering Vacuum Pump Solder Removal Tool

^Use AmazonSmile to donate 0.5% of your purchase price to a charity of your choice at no extra cost to you.

u/ItsKilovex · 1 pointr/Multicopter

The solder sucker I'm using.

It looks like you can unscrew the bottom, but unfortunately you can't. I tried using a clamp wrench, nothing came off.

u/Itaalh · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Maybe in USA/GB.
For me, it’s $60


Edit: now $90
amazon.fr

BUT I ordered it even if it was 3x more expensive and I don’t regret that choice

u/stealthsock · 2 pointsr/dreamcast

I would avoid sponges because of the temperature difference. The sudden cold shocks probably reduced the life of your tip.

I use a copper wire tip cleaner instead.

u/multicopter_throwawa · 1 pointr/Multicopter

No flux and $8 iron. This was incredibly frustrating to do. The connections are solid but look like total shit. I was afraid of accidentally getting solder touching two pads since this is so tiny. How do you guys do it? The videos make it look so easy. -_-


EDIT: Thanks everyone. I ordered some flux and a new soldering station online, rush ordered so it'll be here tomorrow. My ESCs and motors arrive today and tomorrow too so trying to get everything together so I can maiden this this weekend. I soldered everything on my 450 but the soldering pads were huge in comparison and most of what I did was adding bullet connectors to the pads. I've been flying it for months, no flux on it either.

u/stormshout · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Oh shoot! Thanks for reminding me, I was at work when I responded. I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00068IJWC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

It's 0.02" not sure about mm sorry Dx

u/Kiraisuki · 2 pointsr/Gameboy

Uf, that's quite the problem you've got there. For future reference, clean the contact pins on the cart with isopropyl alcohol or electrical contact cleaner. It's the most common cause for "jumbled Nintendo logo."

As for the solder, you'll need a solder sucker and desolder braid to remove that. Reflowing a chip is definitely not something I'd recommend to someone who hasn't soldered much before. It's not going to be easy, but it shouldn't be too difficult either. Avoid using the cart until you fix it, though. You might just damage the cart further.

Edit: Details.

u/bizbiz23 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Not a kit, but I can throw you a couple links to what I use. These work great for me:

  • Soldering iron:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S5Z1R2/

    It's under $10, but I've built two numpads and two TKL boards (handwired) with it. Still running fine with no damage to the tip.


  • Flux Pen:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MCKKBVE/

    It's good to have one of these. If your solder isn't taking easily, this can help out a lot.

  • Solder Sucker (If you need it):
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I14V4X8

    I only got this because I needed to desolder a full PCB from a case. Might be useful if you mess up and need to remove solder from somewhere.

  • Solder:

    Not really sure on this one. My dad had an extra spool that I borrowed from him. I've heard that lead-free solder can be a pain to work with so keep this in mind!
u/livebrains · 1 pointr/Luthier

Continued.....

Ok, so for the electronics:

Get a solder sucker for all the electronics work. This guitar has leaded solder, and a lot of what you find in stores now is lead-free. Mixing those two can cause bad solder joints, so it's best to remove all the old solder and start fresh (assuming the solder lugs and eyelets hold up).

I'd start with testing the pickups to see if they work. This is easy - just hold the leads on a cable plugged into an amp (one on the tip, one on the sleeve) and they'll pass signal if they work. You can either tap the pole pieces with a screwdriver or anything that sticks to a magnet, or hold the pickup to the strings of another guitar. You can also take ohm readings of the coils, but this tests the entire unit to see if it generates signal.

After testing the pickups, I'd replace the jack and battery connections, tag all the switches and pots with electronics cleaner, and test all these parts with a multimeter to see that they work. This would isolate any electronics issues to just the circuitry on the board.

That circuit is actually fairly simple, but you have some components that might give you problems. Those metal cylinders with three orange wires coming out look to be old school transistors. The problem is, I don't see any markings on them to let you know what variety they are or which leg is which. This means that if you have to rebuild the circuit, you can't replace these or lose track of where the legs are connect. You also have to just hope that they still work. If you get it all together and it still doesn't have signal, you can never know with 100% certainty that the problem is or isn't these parts.

Past that, the rest of components are very straightforward - just caps and resistors. You can replace all these if you want just going off the labels. It's not a terrible idea to replace all the capacitors. The material they're made from degrades over time, so even if they work, they certainly won't be operating to the specs printed on the label.

u/DLFamily · 35 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Its a solder sucker, used to de-solder components. You press the plunger down, then heat the solder then press the button on the sucker with the nozzle next to the solder and gone. Here is a link

u/aallen123 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Assuming you want a 60%, that's already 59 without shipping just for the MOD-M's. Unfortunately, no matter how you swing it this specific board is not going to be possible for under under $100. Even with the cheapest parts I can think of:

  • MOD-M = 59
  • GH60 Satan PCB = ~40
  • Aliexpress plastic case = ~15
  • Aliexpress plate = ~18
  • Aliexpress stabs = ~5

    We're at $137 already even ignoring the underglow.

    But, assuming you want to go through with it - here's where to get the goods.

  • MOD-M switches @ originative
  • GH60 Satan PCB, case, plate, stabs @ aliexpress
  • Soldering iron - cheapest one I can find is around 20 at Radioshack
  • Solder - amazon
  • Ebay should be good for the LED's and the LED strip for underglow

    Here's a guide to make the GH60 have underglow