Reddit mentions: The best wheel accessories & parts

They are aluminum, Ill see if I can find them online and link them, but my buddy originally bought them and sold them to me. Like I said, theyve been on my ranger, my explorer, and his jeep as well. I highly recommend them, if youre interested in the stance. You do need an alignment afterwards though.

Edit: These pretty much look exactly like mine. Im not sure about the great handling it says it gives, but my wheel turn radius is pretty nice.

Absolutely worth it. Entry level but very practical equipment is inexpensive and is all that is really needed unless you are doing a couple hundred tires a year.

Here is a example of some simple equipment to get one started:

Tire machines with bead breaker

• I worked in a shop that used this very same manual tire machine for awhile. Works well. Sold under many names. Currently $65 at Amazon.
  
• I used a $39.99 Harbor Freight Tire machine With the $39.99 motorcycle adapters for some time at home with a few mods. $80 investment.
  
  Balancer and weights
  
  
• A simple static balancer is cheap, effective and easy to use. Also they are often more accurate that computer spin balancers as most computer spin balancers have a lower limit of 1/4oz. Where as the static balancer will/can go down to a gram or less if you wanted to, but a 1/4oz or 1/8oz will do for the street. I have a more robust version of this I made at work, but this will do a home user just fine for $81.32
  
• Stick-on wheel weights are the most versatile and can be painted what ever color you want to match the wheel they are going on. Motion-Pro 90oz box for $25.96
  
• Some $10 rim protectors will come in handy also.
  
  So for less than $200 one can set them selves up to mount and balance their own tires with decent equipment. A little bit of practice and it will become easy. A nice mounting bar/tool for these machines is a No-marr

Thanks for pointing the balance numbers out again. I think I overlooked them in the original post you made. I was able to static and road force balance tires to near perfect, like 0.005 and 0.01 and 0.02, very commonly using a couple of hunter machines back when I worked for a Goodyear subsidiary. The machines we had were pretty new back then, and had internal harmonic balancing sensors and laser evaluation to determine Out of Round.(OOR).

More like the bead on the inside, and belts on the inside. The amount of rubber is also a factor, winter tires are not so good on balancing. The bead is thicker in spots ( its a giant metal ring on both sides of the tires. If the steel belts have an issue, like bunching up, or a flaw, this can be a problem as well.

As far as those balance numbers go. All of those numbers are correctable with 5G weight sections on the inside of the rim if the weight distribution is biased to the inside (inner side) of the rim. Some times you need multiple weights in multiple locations to effectively balance a tire. It should rarely be a one and done operation. I've also seen objectively perfect tires from both Michelin, Goodyear and Kumho. Like, no weights required. Perfect Round.

Some rims have hammer on weights for the front, while others use sticky for both. I have shoehorned stickies for front if possible, but more often than not, since the hammer on weights are made of soft metal, I would cut sizes down larger weights to satisfy dependencies if it were a hammer on front. It's simple: Chisel, Hammer, Meet wheel weight and basic digital scale.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/wheel_balancing.htm Check that out, it gives you some basic information on the topic.

You can see that 0.30 is equal to 1.5oz and 1.5oz is equal to 42.5 grams. The RR, LR, and RF are all correctable with standard weights. I would respin the LF and compensate for the out of round condition, opposite to the origin of the condition.

https://www.amazon.com/Supply-Steel-Stick-Wheel-Weights/dp/B0031B7Y7W


You need to clean the application site with ether ( tire techs do this for stick ons.)


To me, it seems like your tire technician probably depends on the machines, and does the best he/she can do, with what is provided as far as weights go.

So go out there and give them a talking to. The bigger the tire, the harder to balance, but those numbers are not consistent with what I would send out.

If the tech has no idea about out of round (Inches) to oz and to grams. Tell him to use the machine to check the inside and outside. Which ever side has the most variation will require a compensating wheel weight and multiple re-balances.

Please ensure that the tech is using the proper hub for your vehicle. Trucks have huge hubs, while passenger vehicles and SUVs have smaller hubs.

Have the technician run the machine with the calibration device attached as well.


If your technician cannot balance these tires, take them somewhere else for a balance, if a place fails to adequately perform the balance, they typically will retry, and if that fails, refund the balance fee. If they are unable to correct the issue, return to your original provider, voice your complaints, talk the talk and start talking refund. I would bet my left arm that they will try to put you in another set of tires, usually for a discount. Be polite, but firm. The worst thing that can happen at a tire shop is for you to walk out.

I tell you that I cannot count the amount of times we discounted installation, lifetime balancing and rotation, valve stems and additional addons, just to move a set of tires.

Like /u/Apotropaic_Sphinx said wheel locks aren't thief proof but you just want to make it harder to steel than your neighbors wheels hoping they just skip yours for an easier target but if they want your wheels they are going to get them.

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-61641-Acorn-Thread/dp/B000CMH4BY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

These have a spinning shell that prevents the easiest trick of hammering on a smaller sized socket.

They are the $80 Amazon ones made by custommadeonly in black, and the tires are the standard 245s. It's a 2017, but it only had 16k miles when I purchased it....17.5k now, so the tires are still excellent. I believe if you are interested you can look in my profile and see a previous post with close ups of what the fitment looks like.


I'll try to link the spacers.
https://www.amazon.com/Customadeonly-HUBCENTRIC-SPACERS-ADAPTERS-5X114-3/dp/B06XKKNV1T/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=20mm+wheel+spacers+wrx&qid=1562687674&s=gateway&sr=8-4

I've only had them about 2 years, but as far as what they can take goes they've definitely proven themselves. I got them to ease swapping between street tires and racing tires for autocross and track days. Never had any issues at all that would lead me to think they need replacing. I can't imagine how they'd wear any more than factory equipped lug studs would. The only difference whatsoever with them is that they're threaded on vs pressed in. If they're threaded on with the proper torque and loc-tited there's absolutely no reason they'll come out short of maybe if you hammer off a nut that was cross-threaded and then torqued on way too hard. In that case it would be convenient that they come out since that stud would beed to be replaced anyway, no matter if it's OE or a conversion. Pretty much all teams that race BMWs convert to studs to make wheel changes easier. The guy at the tire shop that warned against them probably has seen too many Pep Boys specials roll through where the owner uses lousy parts and more importantly doesn't bother installing them right.

I have these studs in a different length and these nuts from Precision European Motorwerks. ECS Tuning tends to have great parts too though so I wouldn't think twice about using their kits.

Harbor freight bead breaker is only $14. Totally worth it. Also to balance the tires, I picked up this one from amazon and mounted it on two jack stands. Works great.

As for the tire changing process, I use the zip tie method for mounting the new tire. I don't particularly like it for removing the old tire. Also make sure the tires are warmed up before you start. They will be so much more stretchy and flexible.

Locks: just fit an alarm with central locking function.

Radio: Measure the resistance across the speakers to see if they still function, as a first go. I'd go original. You can maybe get a kit to provide an iPod aux input function, do a google.

Foam: It's louder without the foam, that's all. Be sure the paint is still intact if you peel it off.

Hubcaps: You mean the small centres for 14" bottle top alloys?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1315-EUR-06-1988-E30-BMW-316i&diagId=36_0039 part #6?
https://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-BMW-36131114180-Wheel-Cover/dp/B009PXCIK8
Just google the part number.

Foglights: you don't need them, they do very little to improve lighting. Get Osram Nightbreaker headlight bulbs instead, same wattage but much brighter and legal.

Throttle body cover, you don't need it. Purely cosmetic.

Well, the solution is two-fold. You need to find spacers that fit the car, and be sure that the wheels will fit with them too. Here are some A3 spacers. Unfortunately, without more information on the wheels, there’s still some uncertainty as to whether they’ll fit, even with the spacers. If the wheels don’t match your bolt pattern, then it won’t matter if you buy spacers. Your car’s bolt pattern is on the Amazon page for the spacers. Here’s a way for you to check the bolt pattern of the wheels. If the bolt pattern doesn’t match up, that’s much more difficult to address, and you’d be better off selling the wheels and looking for another set.

inspired by /u/WormSlayer

 

Like some people, even wearing the rift with the triangle as far down as I can manage, there's a firm pressure on my cheek bones that eventually turn into pain. Having a counterweight helps balances out the rift and prevent it from doing this. Also, since the extra weight is dangling off the back of the headset, it does not really add any weight pressure to your head, it just kinda keeps the rift balanced correctly.

 

Bill of Materials:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064D4I5U
(you may want to grab the weights elsewhere as the price had gone up, it was $5 when I bought it)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073HFK7M1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057563UO

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DH8IT

 

Making it is pretty simple. First I laid down the handkerchief flat on the table. Then I peeled the adhesive cover and stacked the four weight bars two by two on the sheet with the bottom side up so that when I fold in the handkerchief, it will stick on to the bottom of the weights. I kept the folds together with some double sided tape and finished up with a velcro tie to be able to latch on to the rift to (3 is probably overkill btw, it should be perfect with 2).

 

BTW, the weights come in a set of 4 for 60gx4= 240g total which is perfect. I was dumb and bought 4 as I thought it only comes with one stick. As a a result, I have enough materials to make another 2 counterweights. If anyone wants one, I can ship them out for the cost of shipping (~$7 for small flat rate box within US).

Jeep JK XK WJ WK Wheel Spacers 1.5" 4pcs, Jeep 5x5 / 5x127 Wheel Spacers with 1/2-20 Studs for 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK, 1999-2010 Grand Cherokee WJ WK, 2006-2010 Commander XK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYYY0P3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qvcVBbDZQZCH9

Thanks! 17x9 Et30 with 245/40’s all around. The center caps I actually got from Amazon😂 here’s the link. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LB4RH8F/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_p5mMDbRYXJ82B

These fit, I recommend; Gorilla Automotive 78641N Acorn Open End Wheel Locks (14mm x 1.50 Thread Size) - Pack of 4

As long as they’re 14mm x 1.50 they should fit.

https://www.amazon.com/TMS-Wheel-Trailer-Anti-theft-Towing/dp/B00JLUDA84

Looks cheap and crappy but also seems like it'd be quick to attach. A concerted effort would be more effective (e.g. plan a "DAY OF THE BOOT" and have many PPA vehicles booted).

I recently did exactly that (3 inch lift, 31s). If you're looking for ideas or reference, here is "Jade". (Mall parking lot of course. Havent taken her out since I did it)

I did it relatively cheap as far as lifts/tires/rims go. List goes as follows:

BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 LT31X10.5R15 - $175 x 4 = $700

Pro Comp Steel Wheels 15x8"/5x4.5" $55 x 4 = $220

3 in Rough Country lift $293

Hubcentric Wheel Spacers $27.50 x4 = $110

They installed my lift at Mavis for $390 labor. It was a pretty fair deal.

All in all ~$1700.


I'm about to get a pair of Smittybilt bumpers this week.

Warning. Your fenders will rub. I'm cutting and putting flares on because I need them anyway for legal reasons.

Yeah, I had printed it at 15% infill and had a layer problem, so did it again at 30% and it still could use more mass. What I've done in previous projects is to leave voids underneath the design to fit stick-on wheel weights like these. Doing it underneath the model means supports (or bridging) but who cares because it's on the bottom :D It also keep the CG low, and due to the relatively small size of these things you can leave pockets in several areas wherever they can fit.

go to advanced and look for lug nuts that have like a design on them to unscrew, they work perfectly. [Here are some from Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/McGard-24538-Chrome-Wheel-Locks/dp/B000COMX3Q/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&Make=Jeep%7C42&Model=Liberty%7C353&Year=2003%7C2003&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive)

These are the wheel locks you should get https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMJ2QE/?tag=100568-20

They are free spinning (which means the old hammer socket trick will not work on these). Never keep the key in the car unless you're going on a road trip. Just make sure you have AAA for towing incase you get a flat locally, so they can tow it home or tow it to the dealer. Gives you time to get your wheel key.

Shit like that used to happen ALL the time at that place (I was there for a year in 2011), and it just kept escalating. First it was rims and windows, then cars getting stolen, then apartments and people getting robbed. My friends still live there and say it's gotten better since I left after they put up the cameras.

I would highly recommend getting a set of these - Gorilla Guard Wheel Locks. I bought a used vehicle with these on there and no key. 9 different tire shops were unable to get them off until I finally figured out a way without damaging the rim. The keys are extremely unique (no master keys) and the outer ring spins. They are not impossible to get off, but it will definitely take a lot of commotion/noise.

I have one of these wheel boots on my cargo trailer, it works great.

Yep. Like this one.

Why make one, when you can buy it from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/TMS-Wheel-Trailer-Anti-theft-Towing/dp/B00JLUDA84

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E1GLSM/ref=psdc_15706751_t2_B00JLUDA84

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SDVEU4/ref=psdc_15706751_t1_B003E1GLSM

take your pick :)

Yes turn them 180 degrees in and you’re good.

But no not really. Just buy locking lugnuts

McGard 24538 Chrome Cone Seat Wheel Locks (1/2" - 20 Thread Size) - Set of 5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COMX3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SVSyCb3GB0PQ9

Here you go. Seems to have really good reviews. Enseng Set of 4 - BMW Wheel Center Caps Emblem, 68mm BMW Rim Center Hub Caps for All Models with BMW Wheels Logo Blue & White Color https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LB4RH8F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kjQ7CbA5JBCH4

I wonder if the free spinning sleeve lug locks are better alternatives?

You gave me a good idea. http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Anti-Theft-Wheel-Clamp-Automotive/dp/B008TECLSI

They look like this: https://www.amazon.com/TMS-Wheel-Trailer-Anti-theft-Towing/dp/B00JLUDA84

Looks like Amazon has everything

Need more details about the CCTV. If possible: Have an oil-change and keep the old oil. Now make it look like that bitches car is leaking cause its always wet oil under it.

You could also have fun with this: http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Anti-Theft-Wheel-Clamp-Automotive/dp/B008TECLSI/ref=lp_15706751_1_14?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462707895&sr=1-14

How furius would she be if someone PARKED HER IN? Lets say its a its a non-working car someone bought for almost nothing and decided to put it there.

I've heard good things about wheel locks of this variety with a sleeve to prevent sockets from being hammered on: http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-61631-Acorn-Thread/dp/B000CMJ2QE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418833785&sr=8-1&keywords=wheel+locks

Often the bigger issue is that the thieves will just buy the sockets that fit the lock.

Car boots are $60 on Amazon nowadays, diy! https://www.amazon.com/Oanon-Wheel-Clamp-Trailers-Secure/dp/B06XBXZ5JW

Unless you live in (insert your preferred ghetto) you should be fine and they're usually $25 or less on Amazon

Buy yourself a wheel boot off amazon. When someone parks in your spot, put the boot on there. Then you can go into the office when they open and have them call the tow company.

Perhaps you can get an aftermarket tilt alarm that'll set off when the car is raised.

If you're going to get wheel locks, get gorrillas. https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-61631-Acorn-Thread/dp/B000CMJ2QE/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51n13YXLpkL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=07V1C8108J2DEG1YH7EW he'll you can buy 5 packs and use them on all the wheels lol.

Gorilla Guard locks have a rotating cuff on the outside that prevents theft via impact wrench. Only way to remove without a key is hammer and chisel the cuffs off and then impact wrench. Not impossible but a 15-20 minute process that will be a helluva deterrent.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CMJ2QE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484097509&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wheel+locks

Wheels?

here's a $15 solution...

https://www.amazon.com/TMS-Wheel-Trailer-Anti-theft-Towing/dp/B00JLUDA84

Link

You can also buy one of these for a $30 investment!

Amazon says Yes

Did you know you can buy boots on amazon. It’d be a shame to boot a bunch of chuds cars


Oanon Wheel Lock Clamp Boot Tire Claw Auto Car Truck ATV, RV, Boat Trailers Heavy Duty Secure (Size 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBXZ5JW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Vd85BbA3RECVF

By that much you mean $15?
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-61631-Acorn-Thread/dp/B000CMJ2QE

Te recomiendo estos
https://www.amazon.com.mx/Gorilla-Automotive-Tuercas-Seguridad-Llantas/dp/B000CMJ2QE/

I wonder if it would be any harder to get off something like this. I would think the round edge would make it a lot more difficult to pound into a larger socket. I'm guessing a large set of vice grips would still get through it though.

McGard 24538 Chrome Cone Seat Wheel Locks (1/2" - 20 Thread Size) - Set of 5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COMX3Q/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_apa\_i\_YTf2Bb0RCBPZM

Next time use wheel locks:

https://smile.amazon.com/McGard-24538-Chrome-Wheel-Locks/dp/B000COMX3Q

Thieves would move on to easier choices.

went with 2 sets of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMJ2QE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hoping thieves see 8 of these and move on.

They have wheel boots that cover the lug nuts: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBXZ5JW/

There are 700 reviews and I can't find any that said their wheels were stolen.

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-61631-Acorn-Thread/dp/B000CMJ2QE

That's incredibly unfortunate, and the police in this town do little to help, too. I was robbed recently and we had fingerprints, high quality video in which the thief looked straight at the camera, and serial numbers and an exact list of what was stolen, and that was 2 months ago with no results.

Since then I've become anal about my car's security, and to protect against this I got locking lug nuts. Dead simple to use, and it secures your wheels; I highly recommend them.