Reddit mentions: The best wood polish & care products

Hey there! First off, you might want to check out the sidebar which has a whole section on OCM.

No, you don't need to halt your whole routine in order to incorporate OCM into it. In fact, I follow a regimen pretty close to yours and use OCM every night.

Jojoba oil is usually pretty good for OCM because it very closely mimics the skin's natural oil. However, be careful because even though an oil might work really well for someone else doesn't mean it'll work well for you. Jojoba oil sadly broke me out--but give it a try because it might be great for your skin! I personally wouldn't recommend vitamin E oil because it's pretty comedogenic.

A good way to start off with OCM is to begin with plain mineral oil. It's basically baby oil without the fragrance. You can try using baby oil, but many people are sensitive to the fragrance. Lots of people like to use this brand. I personally just bought it myself as well!

If you're having trouble with acne, then mixing in tea tree oil or neem oil (which I think is amaaaazing) would really help. However, it's important to patch test these individually first to see if they mesh well with your skin.

I personally oil cleanse at night to take off all my makeup, and then follow up with a gentle cleanser. This is called double cleansing and it just helps make sure I get all the gunk out of my face.

I use this and like it OK. It doesn't break me out or anything, but once the bottle runs out I don't plan on re-buying it.

The hydrating cleanser should work all right for you, but if you're having problems with oiliness despite moisturizing well, you should try switching to the foaming. Also I use Neutrogena Clear Face sunscreen and like it a lot. It goes on nicely with only a little white cast.

I really like [Old English](Old English Light Wood Scratch Cover, 8 oz, Multicolor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009Y6G7I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_kZ8RCbER02WCH) for covering scratches and restoring color. Make sure you get the kind for light woods unless you want to turn your furniture a dark brown.

I really like [Murphy’s Oil Soap](Murphy’s Oil Soap, 32-Ounce (Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J8L2WZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_r18RCbH1TC6AW) for cleaning grimy furniture. It’s not going to remove the finish.

The original formula will also clean leather! You dilute it in warm water and scrub. Towel off with a soft cloth, then condition with neetsfoot oil or leather conditioner. I have restored really old, dried out saddles, bridles, and boots with this method. It’s great for taking the scratches out of leather, like scratches from your cat or scuffs on shoes.

You can also rub a clear wax (or even a tinted one) on top of the clean wood to moisturize and protect it. Like if you clean too much of the dark off, you can dab a tinted wax into the crevices then rub with a soft cloth to remove the excess. Waxed furniture can be cleaned with water. The upside of wax is that if you don’t like it, you can rub it off with mineral spirits instead of having to take the entire wood finish off. You can also put a poly coat over wax. There’s a rub on poly that is easier to apply than trying to brush it on.

From a simplicity point of view, I definitely think oil is the way to go. You'll see a 3 part cleaner, brightener and oil kit. It's a great idea but I think diluted oxalic acid works way better. Try this with this scrubber. Scrub (while using gloves) with the oxalic acid and the stainless steel scrubber being careful not to dig into the grain. Rinse it with clean water a couple times and let it dry. This brings the original color out of the teak. Then, just brush on a couple coats of oil. It's way less fiddly than varnish. Just wipe up any mess. You'll need to oil every other month or so to keep that nice warm color but I can literally do my deck hand rails and the companionway hatch in less than 15 minutes. It's very easy.

For all wood vape owners out there!

There are plenty of good wood conditioners out there, I suggest applying some to keep your wood nice and hydrated and to make the grain pop. It feels nicer in the hand to me too. And the after picture is only after one coat.

Some vapes come finished already so this only applies to unfinished wood.

Look for products used as butcher block/cutting board conditioners since they are food safe and use natural ingredients like beeswax, caranuba Wax, and natural oils.

Here's what I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074JXS7TZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OFrLDbJAAJM9X

Just wipe it on with a rag, let it soak for 30 minutes+ (I do overnight), wipe it off, and let it dry for a bit. Super easy and it will look and feel much better.

I considered tung oil or even a poly finish but this is much safer and easier and gives a good result.

This is my milaana 1 but my milaana 2 came with some deep scratches in the wood so I sanded it with 180-220 grit and then finished it with the same conditioner and it looks incredible. I'll do a before and after and a guide for sanding it to a smoother finish soon.

For the mineral oil I buy it by the gallon off amazon but any food grade mineral oil is pretty much the same, just make sure it's not scented.

I buy the beeswax locally at a farmer's market but any food grade pure beeswax should work fine.

The oil you linked is just mineral oil with a little bit of beeswax and some vitamin E oil. It's pretty much exactly the same as what I described just with a low ratio of beeswax, probably something like 1:6 or 1:10. Perfectly fine to apply a board butter over it.

| Price/Months | Cost | Notes
---|---|----|----
Mineral Oil | $18/48 | $0.37
Sugar Scrub | $3.50/2 | $1.75 | Stock up during sales
AHA Liquid | $40/24 | $1.67 | $23 on Amazon
Tretinoin | $50/8 | $6.25 | Out of pocket
BP Cream | $8/3 | $2.67 | Stock up during sales
CeraVe SA | $15/6 | $2.50 | Stock up during sales
Sunscreen | $12/3 | $4.00 |
Vaseline | $4/forever | ~~~~ | Negligible
| Total: | **$19.21**

This is with perfect application; the real cost is probably significantly lower since I frequently skip steps and/or days.

I have a few other things like Stridex pads, Aztec clay and Pond's cream that I sometimes use, but they're just casualties from previous trial and error, so they're not really part of the routine.

The Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Toner feels like the most frivolous expense, but it works amazingly well and lasts forever since I put it directly on my face using a tiny bottle instead of wasting 3/4 of it into a cotton pad. Also, lesson learned: don't buy anything from Sephora unless you're in there for the service and/or enjoy flushing money down the toilet LOL.

Hopefully once I'm in the military they'll put me on Accutane and then I can be done with most of this nonsense, but until then this routine keeps me radiant and 100% acne free and as long as I have the patience to actually do it...

Atrium Anniversary! 🥳

In honor of today’s Drop of the Abacus I decided to polish up my Copper Atrium and carry it today at work. I can’t believe it’s been two years since the original Atriums dropped. Preorders started 10/22/17.

After receiving it I ordered tritium vials in Green and Purple and added them with UV resin. Have been real happy with how they turned out and a delightful display in the night.

I have been letting my Copper pieces patina. But about once a year I have been repolishing them with Blue Magic and then recently started applying Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish. I have been super impressed with this wax and how long Copper and Brass/Bronze items remain shiny. Some are free from patina even when they come back around in my rotation a month later.

Blue Magic 400 7 Ounce 7OZ MTL Polish Cream
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5h2PDbNMVKHCA

Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish (65 ml)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSZWEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_PosSl7D59dCRQ

Hey there!

I bought an IKEA wooden butcherblock to use as a desk, and I looking into finishing it with Beeswax, but I was unsure what to get. There's a lot of DIY beeswax finish on the web, and was looking into that as well, but I'm unsure where to start.

1. How much Beeswax (raw or finished paste) will I realistically need to finish the top of my desk? It's about 6ft in length.
   
2. Are there any issues that anyone has run into that I should be wary about?
   
3. Are there any reasons why I should consider doing it another way?
   
   One of the reasons why I'm considering Beeswax is because I like the color of the table, and according to this page it looks like Beeswax or Beeswax/Carnauba Oil blend doesn't change the color as much.
   
   I've also found this and this which looks like exactly that I need, but I can't imagine that 10oz of wax is going to be enough to cover my entire desk, is it?
   
   Thanks!
   
   Also, if anyone knows of any other subreddits that would be able to help me out please send me their way!

Yep... if you are using it for food prep, then definitely don't stain it. What you want to use is Food Grade Mineral oil. You can find it in the grocery store near the laxatives (yep, people use it as a laxative).

Basically it helps to think of cutting boards as a sponge; to be effective it's needs to be damp, in this case with mineral oil.

You can also buy food grade finishes that are a mix between mineral oil and various waxes. You will be shocked at how fantastic it looks after you wipe it down the first time. I make cutting boards and you can see here what a good board looks like with just mineral oil.

Here's our instructions on how to care for wood cutting boards.

Here's an amazon link to john boos products the oil is just oil, and the conditioner is oil with some waxes mixed in.

Good luck!

I use mineral oil. This brand, to be specific.

I used to use a water-soluble oil cleanser that I looooved. When I figured out I had/have fungal acne I had to upheave my routine. Mineral oil does not feed/exacerbate the issue. However, it also does not rinse off like my previous cleanser (which was One Love Organics Vitamin B Cleansing Oil). To successfully remove the mineral oil layer I use a hot washcloth every night. It's actually my favorite part of getting ready for bed, now. The feeling is really nice. Afterwards I refresh with a hydrating spritzer and it's wonderful.

Mostly polishing! The pumice is for a more matte finish for varnish, and the rottenstone for a much more glossy finish! Either I mix it with water or a small amount of to produce a thin paste and rub it on! You can get pumice here and rottenstone here
I'd recommend just trying out the pumice first though, since if it doesn't work you won't be stuck with a pound of rottenstone!

Pumice has a bunch of uses, like for soap making, gentle abrasives, or if you spill a bit of oil sprinkle some on and makes clean up a lot easier. Hope it works well for you!

I live in a 100+ year old building on a busy NYC intersection and close enough to a train line that it rattles the building when they pass (which I am convinced makes it worse) -- this place is DUSTY AF ALL THE TIME. I have lived here 8+ year and tried literally everything, here's what works for me:

• Air purifier helps quite a lot, especially in the bedroom
  
• Cleaning a room from top to bottom and finishing with vacuuming
  
• Switching from a bagless vacuum to a bagged model, I don't love rebuying bags but it's much less of a mess than emptying a vacuum canister
  
• I know people love them but microfiber cloths didn't work well for me, I also found microfiber dusters disappointing
  
• Swiffers are actually pretty good, mostly for spots where you don't want to or can't move everything (i.e. bookshelves)
  
• The BEST method I've used is actually just old-fashioned dust spray and a cut-up 100% cotton t-shirt, I use Endust Free (because I don't love scented products) and it grabs everything and hangs onto to it without just smearing it around. I'm constantly shocked/impressed by the amount of dust it will pick up

Coconut oil is known to clog pores in a lot of people. Were you double cleansing or just oil cleansing?

The Paula's choice one has vitamin e and coconut oil, both of which can clog pores, it also has a lot of added ingredients.

If you are okay with using one that doesn't emulsify (rinse off with water) then mineral oil or squalane is good. You could use this before a regular milk or foaming cleanser at night.

https://www.amazon.ca/Snow-River-32-Ounce-Wood-Oil/dp/B00280MY7M

^mineral oil

If you're familiar with the ordinary, they have cheap squalane. I've never used an already made oil cleanser because my skin is very sensitive but if you search up oil cleansers on this sub, I'm sure there are some recommendations.

You would have to use something like a warm, wet microfiber towel to take the oil off before using your second cleanser if it doesn't rinse off. I use any clean cotton t shirt I don't mind staining. I would only do this in the pm.

Cellulose Sanding Sealer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MCLKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BJ15CbCPVFJZW

Mylands High Build Friction Polish, 500 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BL7X4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pL15Cb2B0EYNS

These are what I use. Ends up shiny like CA but is way easier to do. Sealer first and be generous with it, then polish. Both are done at speed on the lathe, but I like to work it in first then turn on the lathe on larger pieces.

Yeah man. No problem. The sanding sealer is made by Behlen and rub on (not the spray). Couldn't find it on Amazon, a wood yard near my house in Atlanta carries it. Mylands, who makes the friction polish, also makes a sanding sealer.

Here is a link to the polish on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BL7X4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_OzlRwbSCRFWM5

Application is super easy. Just use a paper towel (not a rag! In case it snags while turning you want the paper to tear and not your finger). Takes about 20 minutes between sanding sealer coats and then only about 2 minutes between polish coats.

I've only started turning and finishing on the lathe recently so I'm still learning. You have to get the piece super smooth before and during sanding. I'll see things that I think I can just sand out and then it looks fine after sanding and then I finish it shows back up. I also may try lightly sanding between coats of the polish.

These are the wax sticks I tried:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073WJTNH5/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It helped a bit but is still very noticeable.

​

If it helps, the scratch did create a bit of a lip on each side.

​

Any suggestions are appreciated!

I wouldn't sand or use many tools at all. I would clean those cabinets with a standard household cleaner like Simple Green to get the dirt off, then wipe it with mineral spirits on a damp rag to get off more grime, wax, and solids that will break down using mineral spirits, then use a product like Howard's Restore - a - Finish to freshen up the look and color in the chipped spots. It comes in clear and a couple colors. I usually use clear or golden oak, but dark oak may be best for your cabinets.

https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Restor-Finish-Furniture-Restorer/dp/B00JOREVLE

Thanks for all your advice! I’ve written out all details on the project I can think of with my final proposed design. I want to be extra careful since this uses mains voltage. I think I’ve mitigated my risks but would love your review and thoughts on the final design with the whole picture in mind. I’m also going to create a new post in this sub so feel free to reply there instead.

Project Overview
I’m building an oxalic acid vaporizer to treat my beehives for mite infestations on a semi-annual basis. Oxalic acid comes in a powder form and sublimates at 315F, degrading into unwanted gas products at 372F. 1-2g of acid are applied at a time and must be done so away from the person as fumes are toxic. The vaporizer will be used 1-2 times per year by myself only.
Key Requirements

• Vaporizer must hold 1-2g of acid and run from 315F-360F consistently for 1-3mins
  
• Heating element must be at least 3ft from the body
  
• Vaporizer must run on 120VAC (no car batt available) and plug into a standard GFCI outlet
  
• Must have a physical on/off switch and a light to indicate if the heater is receiving power
  
• Should be low cost (~$50) using easily available retail/free parts
  
• Must be easily portable by 1 person
  
  Design & BoM
  The vaporizer will consist of a heating element with a small copper reservoir on the end of an aluminum broom stick. It will plug into an extension cord and have an inline illuminated switch to turn on/off as well as an in-line thermostat to keep the element in the correct temp range. All elements will be grounded and well secured and insulated to avoid shock. The rough placement and wiring diagram can be seen here and takes after this one. The BoM is below
  
  
• Old aluminum 4ft broomstick to mount everything to
  
• 120v illuminated toggle switch as physical switch and indicator from ebay
  
• In-line disc Thermostat as temp regulator from alliedelec.com
  
• Portable Immersion heater as heating element from BBB
  
• 3/4in copper plug as acid reservoir from Home Depot
  
• Thermal paste for contact between reservoir and thermostat disc from newegg
  
• Shallow 1-gang box as housing for switch and extra wires from Home Depot
  
• All wires will be cut and spliced from an 8ft 3 prong extension chord
  
• Grounds will be fastened to all metal parts and reservoir will be fastened to thermostat using screws and bolts
  
• Wires will be fastened and secured using wire nuts, electrical tape, and zip ties
  
  Risks/Questions
  
  
• The heating element is made to be immersed in liquid and may fail after multiple times reaching high temperatures.
  
• The toggle switch may use an in-line diode for illumination, which would act as a half-wave rectifier for power reaching the heater, thereby significantly reducing the voltage and/or burning out the light.
  
• It may not be possible to securely fasten the reservoir to the thermos disc using off the shelf tools and fasteners. It may require thermal cement.
  
• All connections and pinch/abrasion points must be very secure and well insulated to avoid shock
  
  That’s it. Anything problematic or overlooked? Any better ways you can think of?
  

If you haven’t already fixed it, you could try the Zenith Tibet Almond Stick Scratch Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006ZN9OS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cCDdAbKEHWVGF

I hope the link works. You can google the name anyway if it doesn’t, they even sell it at Walmart. It’s amazing! When I was younger my brother helped me move into my apartment and put my teak dining table upside down in the bed of his truck with nothing protecting it. It got super scratched by little rocks or whatever was in his truck bed, and he gave me that Xenith Tibet almond stick to use. It made them almost disappear completely!

I bought a giant jug of it off Amazon. I also bought some beeswax pellets. I usually condition with just the mineral oil, but every now and then I'll instead use the 'board butter' I made (melt beeswax and mix in mineral oil, allow to cool). Total cost was about $35 but I now have a fuckton of mineral oil and board butter.

Beeswax

Mineral Oil

Also, this stuff is great for other wooden utensils or dishes you might have in your kitchen, such as knife handles, spoons, and salad bowls. Mineral oil also doesn't go rancid, unlike olive oil or coconut oil.

Seems like I will start this project since there is plenty of people supporting this. I mean is not a bad idea, and it will be a cheaper response to the new obelisk immersion, Here is a list of the things (materials) I am thinking in using:

-Obelisk SC1 3400$: https://www.amazon.com/Obelisk-SC1-Miner-Batch-Hand/dp/B07K8WYMP1/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=obelisk+sc1&qid=1550978014&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

-10 gallon fish tank for 23.79$: https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Culture-Gallon-Empty-Aquarium/dp/B06XQQKDL8/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=fish+tank&qid=1550977811&s=gateway&sr=8-25

-10 Gallons of mineral Oil 89.99$: 2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNI1JH6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A394TN1KG6QJPX&psc=1

​

Obelisk SC1 Immerse in mineral oil (Ghetto Style) Total: 3603$

I think that is pretty much it, do you think there is anything else that could be included in this list?

Try a Tibet Almond Stick(Used to be Zenith). My mom used them on everything when I was a kid. I bought one a few years ago and the still work well. There are videos on YouTube to check it out.


Tibet Almond Stick Scratch Remover Most Amazing Wooden Surface Stain Remover And Give
Perfect New Look To Wood Products https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006ZN9OS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L8XEDbHJPBVXY

I've had good results using Deoxit on the backend threads. Cleans everything really well and helps keep the backend cool

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XICZILS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jmP1xbEG76545

I think the mineral oil I got is pretty safe. It's Food Grade Mineral Oil it can be safely used on you skin. Also most baby oils are basically just mineral oil so I think not all mineral oils are carcinogen or harmful.

Just a heads up - you have to get rid of the referral portion of that Amazon link. Against sub rules. You can format Amazon links by typing http://amzn.com/###### where ###### is the ASIN (found in the product description). Your link should look like http://amzn.com/B073WJTNH5

Great product, though. I've used those touchup markers in the past.

https://www.amazon.com/Emmets-H2372-1-Quintol-Stuff-Finish/dp/B0000DD2S2

I've had great success with this

I once bought some tinted Old English scratch cover polish for the cabinets at our last townhome. Basically, you rub it in to treat the wood, but it also has a bit of color to it. You can get a slightly darker color and rub it into your lighter cabinets. Clean then first. It should fill in the scratches, too. In my experience, it needed to be reapplied in a couple of months, but maybe that will work until all of your cabinets are matching. Just be sure to pick out the right color!

Thanks for the comment. I want it to be one uniform color and not be able to notice the epoxy whatsoever, though. I was thinking of getting some wood-colored markers like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WJTNH5/

Then, match the color a little better before another coat of stain. Would that work?

I also use the Snow River Mineral Oil and I order it off of Amazon. It's perfect for makeup removal and OCM! :)

If/when you do get them polished up, if you want to keep their shine longer (especially brass), check out Renaissance Wax

Pricey, but it lasts a very long time and you only need tiny amounts of it. Used by preservationists/restorationists a great deal.

There are wood markers like this that would work. I found that usually more than one marker color blends best.

https://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Repair-Kit-Wood-Markers/dp/B073WJTNH5/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-d29vZCBtYXJrZXJz-ac_d_rm&keywords=wood+markers&pd_rd_i=B073WJTNH5&pd_rd_r=ddaaa8ad-a040-4b21-a81b-7a2e9e4417d7&pd_rd_w=HTu6g&pd_rd_wg=2sJbk&pf_rd_p=404c4843-2c96-4d0d-a5fe-2b0598693e61&pf_rd_r=6BWJ8HZXZPJ3QC8BY7W0&qid=1567301480&s=gateway

Agree totally....unless it goes belly up and I wish I had just left it alone. It take time and effort but the knowledge you are never lost, makes me want to experiment. I really should go back in on my Full Chubb but it is so close to being right I am trying to swerve my OCD: https://i.imgur.com/nkQNiVL.jpg
The only other 'polish' I would recommend is a cleaning paste by Renaissance: https://www.amazon.com/PRE-LIM-Surface-Cleaner-Ceramics-Enamels/dp/B00J7UJREO
Then, regardless of what I use I always employ: Renaissance Micro Crystalline wax polish to finish the job off: https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Micro-Crystalline-Wax-Polish-65/dp/B001DSZWEM
This stuff is my go to!
Idle.

I've worked with Zebrawood and typically use Teak oil to finish it. It's an incredibly durable finish that's both UV resistant and water resistant. My application is intended for outdoor use though so no one is eating off of the finished product.

That said, I'm not 100% sure if it's a food safe finish and I'd actually err to the side of caution here. Someone else might be able to chime in. I've heard good things about Emmet's as well as pure (or slightly watered down) tung oil.

https://www.amazon.com/DeoxIT®-Mini-Brush-Applicator-Contact-Conditioner/dp/B00XICZILS

Boosted sent me some deoxit for free a long time ago. Been hearing that they're slow to respond lately so included a link above. It's not that expensive.

Side note, something like this would probably help make your entertainment center look a bit more polished, as well as some cable management: https://smile.amazon.com/Furniture-Repair-Kit-Wood-Markers/dp/B073WJTNH5?sa-no-redirect=1

I've used something similar to this on some cherry wood before and was very pleased with the results. They're not PERFECT but you'd have to get up close to notice.

Short of stripping the piece and refinishing, I don't think you're going to get a flush repair like it never happened. I have had luck using Restor-a-Finish or Old English (look up the proper color for your piece) to color the exposed wood so that the scratch is less noticeable.

Cool, thanks! This? http://www.amazon.com/Emmets-H2372-1-Quintol-Stuff-Finish/dp/B0000DD2S2

Find yourself a product called Emmet's Good Stuff Wood Finish, can be found here This is some of the best finish for butcher blocks I Have been making blocks for about 8 years made hundreds of them and this is the only thing I use.

This stuff worked pretty well to draw the eye away from the smaller scuffs and scratches:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006ZN9OS

Gorgeous! You should get a set of those furniture markers and color in those nicks, it'll look brand new. I say that because I just got a set of them and have been having so much fun tidying up all my wood furniture.

I am looking for a natural oil finish and I want to avoid toxic substances and fumes. I tried food grade white mineral oil but the surface is still greasy a week later (its possible i did not put it on correctly). I saw some forum posts that people claimed its because mineral oil is a non-drying oil and it will always feel that way. So far this is what I have come up with Tried & True Oil and Walrus Oil has anyone used either of these or have other suggestions?

If it's truly hardwood, basically the acid possibly etched and/or damaged the finish. You can try some oil like pledge restoring oil or this https://www.amazon.com/Old-English-Scratch-Cover-Polish/dp/B0049JESL0/ref=sr_1_3_a_it

The plumber should be covering the expenses though.

I like to mix a little Old English in with the Murphy’s, or even just straight OE on a rag and rub that in. Might be a little dark for this floor though so maybe check it someplace discreet first.


Edit: here’s one for light woods. https://www.amazon.com/Old-English-Scratch-Bottle-Polish/dp/B0009Y6G7I

So like 2 of these https://www.amazon.com/Gal-Mineral-Stainless-Cutting-Butcher/dp/B00VNI1JH6 and a 10 gallon tank?

Or if you don't have like, thousands of dollars to spend cool yet frivolous purchases, you can just get [a tub of oxalic acid](Savogran 10501 Wood Bleach, 12 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VBGH82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PbXkzbD3JRQ6W) for less than $10 on Amazon.

Mix in water and soak the item overnight; rust is gone.

Thanks! I used [these] (http://imgur.com/a7Gmysb) to finish it. I sand through 600, then applied [EEE Ultrashine] (http://amzn.com/B001DT5H7I) follow-ed up with a few coats of [Mylands High Build Friction Polish] (http://amzn.com/B004BL7X4U).

I'm just starting to experiment with the CA glue finish technique, but my results have been mixed.

currently i only have "good stuff" so this one may be for indoors.
Would i be able to add the spar urethane over the top?

like this one? I didn’t even know they existed so I don’t know. I don’t know what a reasonable price for mineral oil would be but heres 5 gallons of it

There's an obscure product called Tibetan almond stick. This will take out the small scratches at the end.



For the deeper part you'll have to get some artists markers from an art store to match the color.


https://www.amazon.com/Tibet-Almond-Stick-Scratch-Remover/dp/B0006ZN9OS

This is what your using on your face?

way way way overpriced https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNI1JI0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/English-Scratch-Cover-Polish-Light/dp/B0009Y6G7I

Buy your own stick-o-almond!

https://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Repair-Kit-Wood-Markers/dp/B073WJTNH5/ref=pd_aw_fbt_79_img_3/144-2581927-8156301?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B073WJTNH5&pd_rd_r=8978aceb-0cae-406a-b1cd-3c285e2b4aef&pd_rd_w=OrcmB&pd_rd_wg=CmJBX&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=4WRMPY5DDAV2JSD35WV2&psc=1&refRID=4WRMPY5DDAV2JSD35WV2

[$24.10/gal, food grade mineral oil](UltraSource 501333 Food Grade Mineral Oil, NSF, 1 gal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNI1JI0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_EaW3wbW6M47GC.)

I don't know what is in it but it works... https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Tibet-Almond-Stick-Scratch-Remover-x/dp/B0006ZN9OS&ved=2ahUKEwje4sKj0aDgAhUMeKwKHZpiCLcQFjACegQIDRAO&usg=AOvVaw1urS5begkYnT6EDiyZzRne

Amazon sells mineral oil for around $80 per 5 gallons

5 Gal - Food Grade Mineral Oil for Stainless Steel, Cutting Boards and Butcher Blocks, NSF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNI1JH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4JcwDbR5MM07C

https://imgur.com/a/VAsnkoW

I have duraseal medium-brown stain on my floors. We used the markers below, but I know other companies carrier their brand specific/special markers that work too.

I actually use the oak color on my floors, wait 5 seconds and wipe away with a rag after. I found the walnut (which is similar to medium-brown) is too dark for the scratches. I plan on using some old English, I’m just terrified if it doesn’t work.

Furniture Repair Markers Kit - Set Of 13 - Markers And Wax Sticks With Sharpener Kit - For Stains, Scratches, Wood Floors, Tables, Desks, Carpenters, Bedposts, Touch Ups, And Cover Ups - By Katzco https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WJTNH5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fLMSCbTZNQMNP