Reddit mentions: The best wrenches

What kind of experience are you guys coming into this with?

Do you have mentors/are you yourselves familiar with the use and safety precautions necessary around power tools?

What kind of space are you in? Do you have a dedicated space to use or do you need to move things in and out of an area every meeting?

How much do you want to learn? Are you planning on using primarily Matrix/Tetrix this season or do you want to do custom fabrication?

If you're planning on using chain, I'd recommend getting at least one of these (Dark Soul #25 chain tool). You won't need to use master links again, and they're just in general great to have around.

I would definitely recommend getting Anderson Powerpole tools and items. Definitely get a TriCrimp and associated wire, connectors, and contacts, if you don't have them already.

I'd also recommend a few tools that come in useful just in general when it comes to FTC-- a good adjustable wrench is good to have around, whether you're doing custom or not. A ratcheting screwdriver is also good to have around, in addition to more standard versions. I'd also recommend my personal favorite allen wrenches (you can get just metric or standard sets, but I linked the paired version). For taking care of stuck bolts or anything else stuck, a good pair of locking pliers are also great. Also getting some good pliers for all your electrical needs is a good idea. Also extremely useful is a good square. On a similar note, a level is good for checking whether you actually bolted that part on straight.

You should also get a general set of combo wrenches and some of the specific sizes most common for FTC. Pretty much any reputable brand is fine for this-- don't spend more than about $50 for a set and $10 for an individual wrench (honestly, that would be super high, you should probably target half of that). A decent ratchet set is also good, but not absolutely essential.

Other good things to have around are a heat gun or heat bar (for doing custom plastic parts for your robot). You can do some great stuff with some creativity and some sheet polycarbonate.

To go with that, a vinyl cutter is great for doing sponsor decals and general cool stuff.

As far as "essentials" go, that depends on where you want to go. If you want to do lots of custom work-- or use something like 80/20, then you'll want some other tools to do that work. A good power drill is absolutely essential, and if you have the space, I'd definitely recommend getting a solid miter saw and an aluminum cutting blade (I know some people consider them too dangerous, but with proper safety training and precautions, I've never had a student or mentor get injured with one).

As far as materials for doing custom work go, I'd recommend getting some box aluminum (1x1 and 1x2) tubing, 1/8" and 1/16" polycarbonate (I'm partial to the dark tinted stuff, but it's a bit more expensive), and a full assortment of #6 and maybe #8 hardware. You'll also want some M3 screws for face mounting AndyMark and REV robotics motors. I like to use Copper State for this, because while they have a totally garbage web ordering system, their prices are great, and their website isn't that bad (to be honest, I'm a bit spoiled by McMaster-Carr).

You probably don't need me to tell you what kind of COTS parts might be good (if that's within the scope of this money). Electronics, good phones (not those stupid ZTEs), motors, are all good.


You'll notice that I'm not suggesting the very budget stuff-- while you can go that direction if you need to, quality tools help you get quality results. If you have the money to get and use the right tools for the job, I always recommend doing that as opposed to cheaping out with something you'll just end up breaking and messing up your robot with later.

A decent chunk of the tools I linked are suggested by my personal favorite review site, The WireCutter/SweetHome. I've used the majority of them, and my experience has been good enough that I don't have an issue recommending their suggestions for other tools relevant to FTC.

Hopefully that was somewhat helpful. I'd definitely consider the answers to the questions at the top-- they can help you narrow down what will actually be useful for you. I can definitely give more specific suggestions if you know what direction you're taking with robot building techniques and how much space you have/ whether you have to move.

From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.

However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:

Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.

Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.

Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)

Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.

Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.

This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...

Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)

Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.

Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)

Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.

I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.

I'm really sorry you've lost your fingers. That's so horrible. I myself work in a shop using powertools on a daily basis so I know the risk and how easily it can happen, it's one of my greatest fears and I wouldn't wish it on anyone. I hope you're coping alright all things considered.

There are definitely resources out there for you and people who can help. Here is one, I know there are more out there. I think there's one in particular I couldn't find.

Here's a list of a bunch of .stl databases.

Here's another list.

There's probably some overlap in those but that should help. I googled 'list of 3d model repositories' to find those, you may find more with similar searches like '.stl databases'. Add 'medical' or 'prosthetic' in there too, combine them and you should find some helpful search results.

There are also places online you can pay people to print stuff for you. But honestly if you find a model that you think works for your hand situation, please pm me! I would love to print it for you and send it to you probono if you want something from asap until you can print your own (I imagine you probably will have alterations you'd like after the 1st attempt) after you've figured out your printer. I'd be happy to help you get started as well if you have any questions at all. I have gone through the initial learning curve myself for about 2 years now so I know what you're in for challenge-wise. Check out the r/3dprinting subreddit, there's a lot of helpful folks over there, there also might be a specific subreddit for your exact printer. Yep, just checked, I believe it's r/MPselectMiniOwners. I've also gotten lots of help from 3dprinting discord channels (namely '3dprinters') Discord is a chat server program incase you're unaware.

Tools and materials wise, you will need only a few basic hand tools and filament. PLA will probably do just fine for your situation (you can use more durable filament later, PLA is just the easiest to work with and best for prototypes. Hand tools that I use are a metal spatula like these, and a pair of snips like these. I also regularly use 99% (highest % is best) isopropyl alcohol to clean my printbed surface. Also get a nice gluestick to help print adhesion to the printbed surface if you run into adhesion issues. That's about it, I have other tools and stuff I use but those are my most frequently used. You might want to get a decent set of hex head wrenches these are the ones I use, they work a lot better than allen 'L' style hex wrenches for working on your machine. That's assuming your machine uses hex head nuts though.

Also, Fusion 360 is the program I'd recommend looking into if you're trying to do your own modelling. It's actually pretty easy to learn, I used a site called udemy.com which offers cheap lessons (~$10 a course sometimes cheaper) that are very helpful. Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists.

Seriously though, please don't hesitate to pm me, I'd love to help you out if you're interested in that. :)

Congratulations!

• Personally I would recommend either a Remington 700 over the 783. There's nothing wrong with the 783, but the 700's fit, finish as well as the overall quality is just superior and I'm a firm believer in the "buy once, cry once" philosophy, especially with firearms. If you buy the 783, my bet is that as you get a little more serious about shooting, you'll end up buying a 700.
  
  
• With all that said, if you're not hell bent on buying a Remington, I personally would go with a Tikka T3 (there are many, many models). Overall it's about the same as a Remington 700 in terms of quality, but the bolt action is just silky smooth and the trigger pull is wonderful. I'm biased because I'm a bit of a Tikka fan, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
  
  
• In regards to the .308 calibre, again I'm a bit biased because my rifle is in .308 but regardless, I think .308 is the way to go. It's easily found, and comes in a variety of weight from (approximately) 120gr to 200gr so you have a choice of choosing a lighter bullet for smaller game or a heavier bullet for larger game.
  
  
• To pass the time while your PAL/RPAL is being processed, I strongly suggest buying high quality safety equipment You don't have to break the bank, but don't skimp. Apart from that I'd say buy a good soft case, and later down the road you can buy a hard case (my personal favourite is the Pelican 1750). Here's a little list....
  
  
• Ear protection: Howard Leight Impact Sport and Howard Leight earplugs (Personally I use both-- you only get one pair of ears!)
  
  
• Eye protection: Smith Aegis Arc (DS Tactical is a great company to deal with)
  
  
• Hard case: Pelican 1750 (Production Case is a nice Canadian company with prices way better than anywhere else and great customer service)
  
  
• Bipod: Harris Engineering (widely considered the best bang for your buck product-- I use the 9-13 inch because I'm a bit taller, but most people like the 6-9)
  
  
• Soft case: Cabela's drag bag-- great product at a great price.
  
  
  
• Torque wrench: VERY important in my opinion, as I see way too many people over-torquing their gear (i.e. scope mount screws) and messing things up. Wheeler Torque Wrench-- this is what I use. It's reasonably priced and I use it all the time when I'm working on my rifle. I know plenty of people say they're not necessary, but they'll save you from major headaches in the future.
  
  
• Bonus: When you buy your scope, DO THIS to level it. I've tried all kinds of methods, but this by far the best (assuming your rifle is levelled first). It's so simple, but so effective.
  
  
  Anyway, I hope this helps. I'll check back in a little bit (studying for finals right now) if I think of anything else.
  

I think the answer here may depend on what he wants to do with it. If it's for hunting the answer will be different than if it's for long-range target shooting. I'm going to assume that since you're posting here you're already pretty sure that it's for long range shooting rather than hunting.

Since I don't know how much you know about guns in general I'm going to write it all out assuming nothing, and then you can skip parts that you know. Likewise, in the future, someone who does know nothing might find this and find it useful. I'm writing this because I don't want you to think that I'm being condescending - I'm not trying to be - I just don't know what you already know.

Firstly, he's never going to complain about ammunition. To know which kind of ammunition to buy, take a photo of the writing on the barrel - it'll look something like this. What you're looking for is the part that's not describing the company that made it, or the patents that describe it. Take a photo of that on your phone. In the example photo is says ".300 WIN. MAG". .300 Win Mag is the cartridge that the rifle is chambered in - nothing else will shoot safely out of it, so it's very important to buy the right one. It may not begin with ".3" - it may begin with .2 or be something metric based like 6.5mm something or 7mm something. When it comes time to buy, use an ammunition search engine like AmmoSeek and find the longest match you can for the kind of ammunition. There's a lot of .300 <something> available, but the one that matches the most text is overwhelmingly likely to be correct. The rifle you're buying for will have some match in the list, unless it's custom and weird. If you're not certain that you've found the match then swing by any gun store with the photo and you can confirm with them. They'll likely ask you whether it's for hunting or range or target use. The difference there is in the bullet - hunting bullets peel outwards like a banana and stop in meat to transfer the most energy from the bullet to the animal, so that the animal doesn't get a chance to feel pain. Range/target bullets are designed to fly extremely predictably, but little care is given to what happens when it meets something. There is a third use case - if they ask you whether it's for "defense" or similar then either they don't know enough or they're being patronizing and assuming that you don't know anything. The next choice is the weight of the bullet. Lighter bullets fly faster, but can be blown around by the wind a bit more. The right choice here is "whatever he's already using". If you ever see any of the boxes of ammunition in the house, take photos of all sides of the box on your phone, and then later delete all the ones that don't tell you the weight. Chances are that the information will be on the end flaps that open, and what you're looking for is a number followed by either the word "grains" or its abbreviation "gr". Just for interest there's 437 grains in 1 ounce, and 15 grains in 1 gram. Chances are the number will be in the 70 to 300 range. When you buy, try to buy closest to what you took a photo of. Exact number doesn't matter, but close is good - if he's shooting .308 Win and you see a box of 167 grain bullets, then buying .308 Win with 168 grain bullets is fine (cartridge is correct, and bullet weight is close). Buying .308 Win with 175 grain bullets is okay (cartridge is right, bullet weight is a a little way off), but buying .308 Norma Mag with 168 grain bullets is wrong because the cartridge is wrong.

So, that's "how to find and choose ammo" covered. You can pad the purchase with ammunition to get to a target value.

Next, accessories - there are some accessories that depend on the specifics of the rifle - whether it's long action (LA) or short action (SA) or Magnum. These basically refer to how long the cartridge is. Armed with the knowledge of which cartridge the gun is chambered for, you stand a reasonable chance of finding out which is it by going to Magpul's page about their polymer magazines, and picking the "Remington 700" from the "Platforms" menu. This brings back some magazines. Click on each and scroll down to "Features" - the first line there has a list of example popular cartridges that fit. Make a note of which magazine it is - the length of the action is in the name. If none of them mention the cartridge, then you can also start googling for the cartridge name along with "short action" and "long action" and see what comes back. Chances are it's either pretty definitive, or people asking why you can't put short action cartridges in long action magazines.

Things that have already been mentioned are bipods, triggers and cases. None of these are bad choices, but they're worth a little time listening for, in case he expresses a preference for anything. For example, nobody thinks that buying a Harris bipod is a bad idea, but there are other less well-known choices that he may have decided to look in to - for example, I've got an Atlas bipod. In order to buy the right thing, you'll need to know how it connects to the rifle. A bipod will connect somewhere near the front, on the underside, not touching the barrel. Chances are that there's either a sling stud or a piece of Picatinny rail there, with the sling stud being much more likely. The bipod should connect to that, but since there are choices then you should pick the one that matches what's on the rifle.

With regards to triggers, there are two well-known names - Timney and Jewell (who apparently don't have a website that Google knows about). Both are great. Both require installation in the same manner - undo the two screws holding the rifle into the stock, use a small hammer and punch to a tap a couple of pins out, put the new trigger unit in place, and then tap the screws back in to place, and put screw the rifle back in to the stock. This sounds easy, but there is opportunity to screw up - the trigger has parts that are only held in by the other parts of the rifle, and the screws have to be done up to a specific tightness. If you don't think the person you're buying for would be happy doing that work, then you can pay your local gun store to do it for you for about an hour of their time. Be aware that both Timney and Jewell make triggers for other guns, too.

Someone mentioned magazines - also a great choice, if the rifle can take them. On the underside of the rifle just in front of the trigger guard will be either a plate, or a hole. If it's a hole, then it takes magazines. If it's a plate then it doesn't, yet. If you want to buy magazines, it's probably best to stick with what he's already got. You'll need to know whether you're dealing with short action, long action or magnum, and the instructions for that are above.

Now, if he doesn't have a hole for a magazine in the rifle, that's actually a thing that can be changed with two screws. That said, these are the same two screws that need tightening to a specific tightness. Remington made a few major families of the 700 rifle - the ADL, BDL and CDL. I have no idea what they stand for (if anything). The important thing here is that the ADL isn't made anymore and the BDL and CDL have the plate as part of the trigger guard that covers the hole where the magazine would go. To be more complete, it does cover a magazine, but it's internal to the rifle and you can't just swap it for a fresh, full magazine when it's empty. It's called a blind magazine. The part we're going to replace this with is called "bottom metal", because it's the piece of metal at the bottom of the rifle. Yep, that's how imaginative we are at naming things. There are two main shapes that this bottom metal comes in - BDL and M5. BDL is a straight swap with what's already there. M5 is bigger, and requires machining out some of the stock to make room for it. The process is called "inletting". Your local gunsmith would do this from a template with a router. You'll also need to know whether you're buying for a short action rifle or a long action rifle. A good brand name here is "Pacific Tool and Gauge", or Magpul (pick Remington 700 from the "Platforms" list) but there are quite a lot of choices.

Another choice might be a shooting rest bag. I don't use one, so I don't have good advice here.

Another good choice might be tools for him to make changes he wants to make to his rifle. The best advice I'd give for this one is a FAT Wrench. It's a screwdriver that stops at a tightness that you set. That's how you make sure that the screws are at the right tightness, and with long-range stuff, everything needs to be the right tightness.

Finally - where the heck do you buy from? The big names to buy from are Brownells and MidwayUSA. They both mark the outside of their boxes, though, so it's worth considering having them deliver to your office or to a friend, so that you can repackage before bringing it inside your home to avoid suspicion.


One last thing - if you do have any questions about this you can send me a private message and I'll ask for photos of the whole gun and the information about the cartridge and I'll be happy to help.

So the good news is that the engine in your bike (the aircooled two valve, or "desmodue") is about the simplest and easiest to maintain of all the modern Ducati engines. I have the same one in my Scrambler and it's really quite simple. You also don't have a ton of fairings or whatever covering stuff up.

So, with a fairly basic set of tools you can certainly learn to do your routine maintenance yourself. For basic tools, you'll want a basic "mechanic's" tool set that includes Metric sizing, and both sockets and "allen wrenches." You can piece this together or buy something like this that'll have just about everything you need. You'll also need some torque wrenches. I have this one for higher torque stuff and this one for lower. They're not the super awesomest in the world but they're just fine.

Let's look at a couple of simple jobs:

Chain Maintenance

This is one you'll want to be doing every 500 - 600 miles or so. You can do this without a rear stand, but it is MUCH easier with one.

Required tools:

A chain brush (I use this one from Tirox)

Chain Cleaner (I use Motul Chain Clean)

Chain lube (I use Motul lube )

Some nitrile gloves because yuck, and some cardboard to prop up between the chain and the wheel / tire. You DO NOT want chain lube on your tire.

Optional is a rear stand. Everyone will yell Pitbull, which are great but expensive. I didn't want to go ultra cheapo, so I ended up with a set of Pro II stands from GPI Industries. They were like $100 on sale.

Basically, you put the bike up on the rear stand, stick some cardboard between the chain and the wheel, hose it down with cleaner, brush it off, blot it off, and hose it down with lube. When I'm done I typically put the bike back on the sidestand and check for proper chain slack as well, just because.

Oil Changes

These are "officially" a 7500 mile deal on our bikes, but I'm conservative and do it at about half that.

Required tools:

An oil filter wrench. You'll need a 76mm octagonal one. I use this one and it's fine.

You'll also need oil, a filter, and a few O-rings and gaskets. The easiest way to get all this stuff is to go to Ducati Omaha (who are sponsors here and will give you 5% off and free shipping with the code in the sticky thread) and order an oil change kit for your bike. They'll even include the Ducati filter wrench for like $10.

You'll also need an oil drain pan and a way to transport the old oil to an auto parts store or other place that will properly dispose of it. PLEASE do not do something stupid like pouring it in the gutter or putting it in your trash.

This is another job that's made incredibly easier by putting the bike up on the rear stand.

There's a good walkthrough of how to do it here. This is on a Scrambler, but again it's the same engine. Note that this walkthrough includes checking the mesh filter which isn't strictly required every time. If you don't do that part all the things about taking the exhaust off aren't applicable. If you're not doing that part all you need to do is drain the oil, swap the filter, and re fill.

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There are other jobs you can easily learn to do yourself, like brake pads and fluid, but if you start by learning to do chain maintenance and oil changes you'll have most of the stuff you need. The other thing I would recommend is to get yourself a nice set of bike washing stuff, and spend time every few weeks cleaning your machine. It's a good way to get familiar with what's where and what it should all look like "normally."

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I do a lot of shadetree mechanic stuff, and my toolkit is relatively small and 99% from harbor freight. Invaluable tools for me:

• Dewalt impact wrench. ($100) Fuck the drill, get the driver and these ($5). This makes zipping things together and apart super easy. Not necessary, but holy shit is it my most used tool. I'm lazy and this saves a ton of time.
  
• 3/8" plastic harbor freight socket wrench. ($10) This is a ton better than any steel wrench I've ever had. Great mechanism, ergonomic, light, non-corrosive.
  
• Bit set ($23) comboed with the impact driver and one of these ($2), and you're set for any screw/socket situation you could possibly have. I use this so much that I should probably have 2...
  
• Breaker bar ($20) for anything that the socket wrench can't handle on its own. Direct competitor to Snap-on for $20
  
• Socket set ($30). I don't think I've ever used anything outside of these besides some small jobs where either a special deep socket or thin walled socket was required. Make sure you get an adapter set ($5) so all your tools can work with any sized sockets. While you're at it, get some extensions ($15) and universal joints ($7). These are invaluable when you need them and very useful otherwise. Usefulness factor makes them a necessity in my book
  
• I love my channel locks ($7). I don't carry box end wrenches. I've never been like, "fuck, I NEED a box end wrench." I think that anybody who needs them is a damn liar. These channel locks are every crescent wrench combined into one tool. They also serve as pliers, wire strippers, etc. etc. I might upgrade to vice grips one day, but these are still my go-to pliers.
  
• Similar to channel locks, some adjustable wrenches ($9) are musts for the same reason channel locks are necessary.
  
• Multimeter for electronics. This thing does it all. I want to say it even does continuity which isn't too common.
  
• non-harbor freight torque wrench ($57). This one is a direct competitor to snap-on as well. There's a 1/2" drive one that goes up to 150 ft-lbs which can get you by 95% of jobs for ($38) if savings if the penultimate goal. I'd splurge if I were you though on the 250 ft-lb wrench.
  
• THE BEST TOOL EVER ($5) Whether you dropped something into the engine bay, need to grab a socket way over 'there', or whatever, this tool is so useful.
  
• Jackstands ($50 for 4) - and any jack. I have a nice racing jack, but it's definitely not necessary. Scissor jacks can access tight areas, but bottle jacks are more reliable. I don't care what jack you use, use jackstands BEFORE YOU KILL YOURSELF in the stupidest way possible. Boaters use lifejackets, construction guys use hardhats, mechanics use jackstands. These are your personal protective equipment and they are designed to save your life. Make sure it's rated for your vehicle and carry 2 if you can, but carry at least 1 if you have any inclination to get under your vehicle for any reason. The average person might not need one day-to-day, but the average person shall not go under their car without one. Rant over.
  
• OBD 2 engine communication device ($17). I can read and clear engine codes using my phone. I can check O2 sensor voltages, I can check battery voltage, boost pressure, vacuum pressure, my 1/4 mile time, etc. etc. etc. This tool is extremely useful. I consider it necessary given its pricepoint and utility.
  
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  I don't believe I've missed anything. These are my automotive essentials and are valued at $360 new. Skip the convenient impact driver and you're at $260. I want to make it clear that you can do 99% of any vehicle work using these tools and these tools only. Whether you're changing your tires or dropping the transmission, these will get you 99% of the way there. Most of these have been side-by-side compared with professional grade tools and are very competitive performance-wise. Cost wise, it's no contest. These tools win.
  
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  Jackstands

You're halfway correct. You're only converting the length unit, not the weight unit. So to go from kg-m to ft/lb you'd have to convert both units. Easiest way is to use an online converter, like this one. So your range, 0.15 to 13 kg-m, is equal to 13 to 1128 in/lbs, or 1 to 94 ft/lbs.

To really get all those torque ranges, you would need 3 torque wrenches: one for the smaller torques, one for the bigger stuff, and a screw-type torque wrench for the really small stuff. But two torque wrenches should cover about 90% of the stuff on that list.

These two wrenches would work perfect for what you're doing: a 1/4" drive and a 3/8" drive. With Amazon's free shipping the price should be right around $75. These two wrenches give you a range of 0.23 to 11 kg-m, which is everything on your list except the "cone seat for steering rod" and the "speedometer cable locking screw". If you ever mess with those, just use common sense and don't over tighten them.

I currently work as an aircraft mechanic, but I have also worked on motorcycles and cars before. I can tell you that most people would not even torque the vast majority on that list. Some things are important, where a failure of the bolt or nut can result in damage, like the axle nut bolts, and those would get always torqued. But things like the kickstarter arm bolts would normally just snug them up. Over time you will learn what is proper strength that should be applied. But for a beginner the torque wrench is great because it reduces the chances of stretching a bolt.

Quick science lesson. If you look at this chart, you will see the torque you can apply (the stress axis) vs. the stretch the bolt will receive (the strain axis). As you torque a bolt, the bolt will stretch slightly, which is fine, unless you go too far. A normal torque for a bolt would be somewhere between 0 and the yield strength on the chart. In this area, the bolt will stretch but return to it's original form once the torque is release. If you go any further, you enter the strain hardening area. Here the bolt will receive permanent deformation, but will still be tight. If you go even further, you enter the necking area, where the bolt has stretched so far that it has become thin and the strength of the bolt is no longer there, and the bolt is very close to breaking.

The reason why I bring this up, if you're ever tightening a bolt, screw, or nut and it feels like it all of a sudden got easier to turn, most likely it's because you've entered the necking area and you're about to break the bolt. Best thing to do then is take the bolt out and replace it.

Lots of variables for tires & brakes. I've heard of folks eating up a set of tires and brake pads in one weekend. Those with more wear, it could be after a day. The OEM pads & tires are fine for the track, but you will most likely eat them up pretty fast, again, depending how you're driving. For your first day, if you're not particularly aggressive, you should be fine. If you are on it, they will go much faster. Are you comfortable changing your own brake pads? If so, bring the tools to do it and extra sets of pads. (front & rear) That will give you peace of mind.

After every session you're going to want to check a few things:

• Lug nuts with a torque wrench (I picked up this one on Amazon a few years ago and it's worked well.) Torque ONLY when wheels are cold, eg. right before you go out on track. Do NOT use 12 point sockets - use a good six-point only! (OEM Ford lug nuts are ABSOLUTE GARBAGE and will fall apart.)
  
• Tire pressures. Get a good tire pressure gauge, something like this. (similar to this - I recommend analog, as you don't have to worry about batteries)
  
• Brake pad wear - visual inspection - look carefully at the pad material on all four corners. Make sure you have plenty. Check inner & outer pads.
  
• Tire wear - pay attention to how your tires are behaving and wearing. Adjust pressures as necessary. I normally start the day out about 8-10 PSI less than the OEM specs. After your first session, immediately check pressures. Tell your instructor you want to do so, they will help you. You want the hot pressures to be somewhere around your OEM pressures. You may have to add/remove some air to get the tires where you want them to be. Take notes, and experiment.
  
• Open the hood after your session and inspect the engine. Get used to what it looks like and look carefully for leaks or anything that is out of place. You may have issues with overheating as so many folks have in the past. If you notice your coolant temp climbing, put the heat on full blast and run it out the side vents. This will help mitigate the issue enough to get you by. The solution is a larger radiator but that's for another time.
  
• One last thing, when you come in off of a hot track, try not to use your brakes. When you park your car, use wooden blocks or wheel chocks. Don't use a parking brake. Let the pads/rotors cool without touching. I like to run my car for a few min after coming off track to let the coolant circulate a bit, with the hood open. Up to you if you do this. Heat is the enemy, gives me peace of mind to let it cool faster.

alot of this is dependent on your model, but to give you a rough idea...

the most important tool you can own is a copy of the Factory Service Manual for your car, it can make fixing any part of the car 10x easier, and gives you torque specs for almost everything so you dont wreck your car. Subaru uses aluminum engine blocks, and over torquing will strip the threads from the block, or if you're really unlucky you can crack the block or head leaving you with a 3,300lb paperweight.

99% of fasteners are Metric, common sizes are 8, 10, 12, 14, and 17mm. there are also some 19, 21, and 23mm but they're less common. If you do any engine work you'll want a 14mm 12-point to remove the head bolts. If you need to split your short block, those are 12mm 12-point i think...

changing the engine oil will require a normal 17mm socket, but if you feel like changing manual transmission or rear diff oil you'll need a Torx T70 bit. (im doing mine this weekend) thats about $10 on amazon

If you plan on doing any engine/timing belt work, consider getting a set of cam/crank pulley tools. they're specific to Subaru and its nearly impossible to get the timing belt pulley's and harmonic balancer torqued correctly without them. There are a few different tools for different pulleys, each is about $50. you can find them here and on amazon.

I'm not sure about older models, but the fuel line that connects to the intake manifold on my subie has a quick-disconnect that requires a special tool to remove, you can remove the fuel line in other locations, but its nearly always a pain in the ass to get it back on and will risk damaging a hose. this is only really needed if you think you'll ever remove the intake manifold or plan to pull the engine at any point.

Other than that...

Breaker bars are great, especially for head bolts, brakes, and oil drain plugs

Feeler Gauges for checking tolerances

If you jack up the car, throw some jack stands under there for redundancy so if your jack slips, you aren't killed (this happens, alot.)

a compressor, impact wrench, blowgun, air ratchet, and some impact sockets can be infinitely useful, but know when to use them and when not to use them.

a good set of torque wrenches is always good, the torque specs on subarus are anywhere from 3.6ft/lbs to something like 136 ft/lbs. Amazon has some pretty good ones which cover this range... i bought this, this and this

im sure i can come up with more, if i do i'll add them as an edit. If you can give me an idea of what you plan on doing maintainance-wise, maybe we can give you an idea on what you'll need/expect

Here is my work bench. At this point, I can build and tear down bikes. I just replace a headset yesterday, and I have all the tools, for example. So, it's probably overkill for most other people. There are a few things I cannot do, and it's because the tools are too exotic, like BB86 press fit bearing remover, threading the threaded fork, etc.

• I started from a Nashbar's deluxe tool kit but I think this one is way better.
  
• A repair stand is really nice to have, and I'd recommend the Feedback sports' stand.
  
• Torque wrench - I bought one from Nashbar.com. Wait until they do 20% or more off day. I also have a 5Nm torque wrench - similar to this one. For handlebar adjustment, this makes life a lot easier. You can get away with just 5Nm one for most cases.
  
• Stanlay locking adjustable wrench. I use this for so many situation, like installing bottom bracket and headset.
  
• Combination and box wrenches - any brand
  
• Ratchet wrenches 8mm - 12mm. Go find cheap ones on ebay. Makes life a lot easier.
  
• Ryobi 18v inflator with SKS presta adapter.
  
• Park tool master linke plier
  
• Progold grease
  
• T9 oil
  
• Wheel stand
  
  I also have Nashbar's crown race installer, remover, headset cup press and remover, and steering tube cutting guide. Head set cup press is rather expensive so unless you are going to service the headset multiple times, it's better to use LBS or bike coop.
  
  
  
  

• Save yourself a few bucks and get the Hakko / Snip Combo.
  
• I beat the shit out of my 10 yr old radio shack fire starter, and now i LOVE my Hakko. To be prepared I found this video on how to take care of tips. I've been doing this guys method from the start and HOLY BALLS my tip is still in good condition after several months of use. I even bought extra tips from HK thinking i was going to need them. LOL.. maybe down the road or precision soldering.
  
• I know you said you have hex drivers, but i picked up this set due to my original hex set stripping. The Titanium apparently keeps from stripping.. have yet to strip them, so we'll see. Also good to have something at the bench, and an on the go set for the field. I actually have a multi-tool from HK for the field.. it's not titanium but it works.
  
• I also have a multi-tool ratcheting hex nut driver for my props.
  
• zip ties
  
• blue lock tight for motors
  
• personally i have yet to use or need a heat gun, if it's for shrinking heat shrink i simply use a lighter.
  
• little baggies for small parts. I label mine where these parts came from but not necessary.. e.g. Cobra motors, Naze32, Strix frame, etc.
  
• i picked up a cheap helping hands from Harbor Freight for like $3.. it comes in handy.
  
• Lipo Checker.. i personally got a Hyperion EOS Sentry 3 for $11.
  
• XT60 male/female connectors
  
• 12/14/18/20/22/26 AWG wire..
  
• Car bulb for smoke stopper.. this should be the FIRST thing you build.. it's saved me sooooo many times.
  
• electrical tape.. lots and lots of electrical tape.
  
• double sided tape.. foamed/padded
  
  probably more.. but all i can think of right now..
  
  
  

> I absolutely understand torque wrenches and their importance, but, not sure I want to make the investment for the infrequency I would use one at this point in my life.

Really???

Just two examples: https://amzn.com/B0019VMI0Y and https://www.hfqpdb.com/coupons/3364_ITEM_CLICK-TYPE_TORQUE_WRENCHES_1562189647.3117.png

Those are much cheaper than brake rotors. The beam type will last forever. It's a good idea to have the calibration checked on the click types because the springs stretch on them. I have a couple of the Harbor Freight cheap ones, and some "tool truck" ones I paid $100+ for, and if anything, the HF ones stay closer to proper calibration longer than the expensive ones.

If storage space is a problem, I also like this solution: https://amzn.com/B009GLISI0 which also doesn't require periodic calibration (and can actually be used to check calibration on other torque wrenches).

For pads, I agree Akebono are the best. Those go on my wife's Mercedes S class, and on her VW Beetle daily driver. My pickup truck, a 1997 Chevy S10 2WD with the 4.3L V6 (which is also my autocross "sports car") is running Wagner ThermoQuiet Cermic pads now. They are inexpensive but very effective. Most modern ceramics (even the parts store "house brands") are more than adequate for today's cars and today's tires.

I just put together a tool kit for my BRZ, and I ended up getting a set of Tekton metric sockets and a Tekton low-profile 3/8s inch ratchet. I've used Tekton quite a bit and I found them to be pretty great. These metric sockets will cover just about everything on the car that can be loosened or tightened with a socket, and since they're deep sockets you can loosen lug nuts with them.

I'd suggest getting a breaker bar or torque wrench if you want to get an additional accessory. The breaker bar is great for loosening tough nuts, and the torque wrench is terrific for tightening a fastener to the exact amount of force it specifies in the manual.

If you really want to go above and beyond, an open ended wrench set (also metric) can be great for when a socket just won't fit. They even make a version with a built-in ratcheting mechanism

In summary, a metric ratchet set that goes from about 8mm to about 20mm is a great gift idea, and you can easily add on other accessories or wrenches if you want to make your gift a bit bigger. I can personally vouch for the Tekton stuff--sure it's not the most expensive fancy set of tools out there, but they look, feel, and work well.

Hope this helps!

Sounds a bit like me!

1. What I did was look at all the components on my bike and try and find the owners/instruction/installation manual. This provided me with most of the torque settings required for the various components, and I put them into a spreadsheet for future reference. For the remainder, I went to Park Tool website http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts and thus completed my list of parts with their respective torque settings. The range worked out to be from 2Nm-49Nm (min torque spec). I could not find a single torque wrench that had this range, so had to split into 2 wrenches. Since the smaller values (2-10Nm) were the most common on the bike, I purchased this Tektro 1/4" torque wrench http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL2EG which ranged from 2.26Nm-20Nm. I have had no problems with this wrench, and it feels good quality for the small price I paid.
   
   
2. I've found isopropyl alcohol to be sufficient for cleaning the rotors, but mine don't get all that dirty so YMMV. I know that Fenwicks makes a Dry Degreasers and Disc Brake spray that is supposed to be very good.
   
   
3. You're probably best looking to get the Park Tool stand http://www.parktool.com/product/home-mechanic-repair-stand-pcs-9 It's not all that expensive and the quality is excellent.
   
   As to rear derailleurs, they are all pretty much standard. You have 2 screws for determining low and high stop; the b-screw which controls the gap between the top pulley wheel and the cassette. And then are able to adjust cable-tension either at the derailleur or the gear shifter which will fine tune the shifting indexing. Just youtube any rear-mech/derailleur setup and you should find something suitable.
   
   Hope this helps!

I highly suggest a hand packer. You'll need a jack capable of lifting your trailer (I highly suggest a bottle jack), and stands to support it while your wheels are off. You'll need a 1-1/2 socket (I won't use a wrench on the castle nut), cotter pins if that's what your axle uses. You won't know until you take it apart so just buy a kit since they're cheap and you can use them if/when you need to work on your awning anyway. I use water pump pliers to remove the dust cap without damaging it. You'll need a seal puller. Breaker bar, torque wrench, and sockets to fit your lug nuts. Brake clean, I use varsol to clean everything but the drum. Varsol and cast iron don't mix. I'll clean everything after the varsol with brake clean because it evaporates. You'll need high temperature high pressure grease and new seals (if you bring your make and rating of axle to a dealer they can hook you up).

Jack up the trailer, take off the wheels, pop off the dust cap, take off the cotter pin or other retainer, remove the nut, washer, outer bearing, remove the drum, remove the seal, remove the inner bearing. Clean the bearings with varsol, clean everything with brake clean, blow everything with compressed air to evaporate the brake clean, pack new grease into the bearings, coat the axle spindle with grease, coat the bearing races with grease, reassemble.

The correct torque on the axle nut is 50ft/lbs while spinning the wheel to set the bearings, then loosen and retighten to finger tight.

If you're putting together furniture from a store, you'll probably want a set of allen keys around. I recommend Bondhus. Very solid tool for the price. I like the ball ends and prefer having them loose rather than swiss army knife style. There are better brands, but I don't think the added price is worth it for the home user.

I don't think wrenches are much use to most home users - especially if you have ratchets already. Might pick up some channel locks (or equivalent) and vice grips. Save some money and adds versatility.

Hammer, again for a home owner, doesn't make much difference. I'd probably suggest picking up one slightly smaller than you think you need. You'll likely be doing work that requires more precision that power in most cases.

Screwdrivers, it may be worth investing in a decent set. BUT if you (or somebody in your household) is prone to losing them or using them incorrectly (like as a pry bar or breaking up ice, etc), expensive screw drivers would be wasted on you. I'd start with a basic set you can get at the local big box (Kobalt is on deep discount at Lowes right now; Husky is a solid choice at HD; HF Pittsburgh will do most of what you ask of them) - all at a good price. Might also be worth picking up a cheap-y driver with interchangeable bits to keep in the junk drawer. Might just end up using that more than anything else.

Pliers, I don't think I would splurge on either. You will use them, but the difference between something high end vs entry level homeowner stuff will be lost on most folks. Not worth the extra money, in my opinion (and like screwdrivers, depending on who is using the tool, these are the second most likely thing to get destroyed being used incorrectly or lost). One other tool that might fit in this category are some wire strippers. I would spend a little extra money for a good pair. Lot of folks around here like Klein. Solid brand, solid tools. Little bit pricier. I have some Southwires which are a bit cheaper, but alot of guys get on for being made in China or inferior compared to Klein. I'm definitely not a pro, but I've not had any problems with them including wiring up a generator on 10/3 UF-B wire and doing a full electrical install in an office/shed.

I appreciate the effort. This seems promising and may be the better idea, the other route I was going to take was the Bardwell kit with some other stuff.

https://store.rotorriot.com/bardwells-budget-build-kit/

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-series-1300mah-4s-100c-fpv-lipo-battery

https://www.amazon.com/usmile-receiver-Support-FS-iT4S-Evolution/dp/B07FMFG6Q3/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1542217789&sr=1-1&keywords=fli14

https://www.amazon.com/Flysky-FS-i6X-Transmitter-FS-iA6B-Receiver/dp/B0744DPPL8

https://www.getfpv.com/new-arrivals/ev-peak-e3-falcore-edition-35w-3a-lipo-battery-balance-charger.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4571Q6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=fpvknowitall-web-20&linkId=6769f39dd3014cb5619db31a54b18438

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-quad-solder-38-62-0-8mm-100g

https://www.amazon.com/DOWELL-Stripper-Multi-Function-Tool%EF%BC%8CProfessional-Craftsmanship/dp/B06X9875Z7/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542221619&sr=1-4&keywords=wire+stripper+and+cutter

https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Titanium-Nitride-Driver-Wrench/dp/B00CP2GGBI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1488911480&sr=8-3&keywords=hex+driver&linkCode=sl1&tag=dre-youtube-20&linkId=d53d845db871ab90fe110b2918f60a7e

$381 no shipping/tax and the build kit comes with accessory kit including motor screws for CL1 5mm thick arms, double-sided tape, FC stack mounting screws, XT60 power lead, zip ties, and heat shrink.

​

Your idea seems like it may be "too little" for the project but I am honestly ok with that because I rather get something done then bite off something too big to chew and end up having to figure something out last second and it being a piece of crap.

​

So does that flight controller stick right into those frames and then you screw them in or something? You say I only need to solder the the power wires to the camera, where do the motors go? I probably sound like an idiot but I'm not really an electrician or carpenter, I don't build things, other then computers :P. I need to head off now so I can't do so much research right now and I spent all day researching today.. won't have much time tomorrow, we are going to tour a college. Can you recommend a good video that would go along with this build? Tomorrow, I am going to ask the teacher if the TV in the room I am presenting in has analog input, if not we go from there. We have access to a 3D printer but a lot of people are going to be using it most likely and I think its slow but I can definitely get the camera mount printed. Once again, appreciate the effort.

I've been using this set for years now on planes, quads, 3d printers, and all kinds of stuff. None of them are stripped. Even the smallest size is still good as new.


https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-25272-13-pc-Wrench-Metric/dp/B00I5THFR4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1485439142&sr=1-1&keywords=tekton+metric+hex


I have a Fluke 112 but only because the company I worked for replaced them and gave the old ones away. It is fantastic to have one, but I think they are like $150+ new. Totally not needed. I've had bad luck with the super cheap/free ebay and harbor freight specials. I would consider stepping up to the ~$50 price range. I use the continuity beeper like 95% of the time I pick up the tool, so make sure it has a beeper/buzzer.

1. Go to your local sporting goods store, Dick's Sporting Goods tends to be the best for this because of how aggressively they price clearance.
   
2. Ask them if they have any "air backpacks". If the associate looks confused, ask for a manager. Air is when something goes below clearance and rings up for $0.02, and they will sell it for 75% off of the original price, but in many districts they're getting ready for inventory so they are motivated to move this stuff. I know at some of my local stores they just sell all air for $5. I got a $120 Browning backpack for $5. You're going to be looking for a nice hiking backpack with the part that goes around your waist so the bag isn't banging you in the back as you ride.
   
3. Order a bunch of tubes, they are available for as little as $3, or if you run Tublitos then grab some patch kits and one extra tube.
   
4. Order a cheap set of sockets, allen keys, and a chain breaker off of Amazon.
   
5. Throw all that stuff in your cheap backpack with the last remaining part of your chain from when you initially cut it.
   
6. Bring that bag with you every time you go riding anywhere.
   
   Now, for about $100 you'll never be stuck again. I'm amazed when I see people who aren't prepared for this kind of scenario.

I can't help you on the chain rivet tool

In terms of a ratchet kit - since the rear axle nut needs to be torqued down pretty heavy, you'll want a decent torque wrench that can comfortably hit the spec on the rear axle nut. Do you know lb ft your rear axle nut needs to be torqued to? I'd suggest getting a torque wrench that does 15-150 ft lbs something like this , as most axle nuts need somewhere in the 75-110 ft lbs. Then, at the least you need a socket that 1) matches the drive size on your torque wrench (likely .5 inch) and 2) the axle nut size (can vary a lot. mines 27mm, some are 24mm, recommend checking service manual and/or google). You'd be even better off for doing other work to just get an impact socket set, should be able to find something decent for ~$20 on harbor freight, and then a cheap ratchet (for when you just need to loosen things up or other various tinkering activities)

I like the Tekton torque wrenches, have 2 sizes and never had an issue. In terms of sockets, anything not made out of chinesium is fine (Harbor freight set has been good for me)

In the spirit of staying buget, you could get a budget bipod that works fine too: http://www.amazon.com/Hunting-Adjustable-Spring-Return-Sniper/dp/B00U27O9TY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463606745&sr=8-2&keywords=swivel+bipod

The primary arms 4-14 is great. I'd choose the R-Grid over the mil-dot.

http://www.primaryarms.com/pa4-14xffp-r-grid/p/kt-pa4-14xffp-r-grid/

I'd just pair that scope with the accompanying primary arms low rings too.

Get a fat wrench:
http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

So you can torque everything to spec including the top rail to action and action screws (action to bottom metal).

Might consider a muzzle brake, rear bag and stock pack too, but see first how your face is sitting on the rifle.

You should be able to lay down on the rifle, close your eyes and basically go to sleep, and then open them and still have a great sight picture. So your 'resting' position on the stock should put you in line with the scope.

Others will chime in with great budget options for break, stock pack, and rear bag. I just always get triad tactical things for my rifles.

Alright... ignoring the fact that your asking how to install gears implies heavily that you don't know the first step... OR the first thing. Here's the basic run down. I'm not going to go into detail on torque specs, or specific procedure... i'd be here all night on a how-to that most people don't give two shits about. I'm also doing this ONLY for the 8.25. DANA 44's are too rare in stock, and DANA 35's don't deserve to be rebuilt.

Tools needed:

1. Bearing race set tool: http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html
   
2. Clamshell Bearing puller: http://www.amazon.com/G2-Axle-Gear-80-BRGPLLR-Clamshell/dp/B004PHV7DI
   
3. Micrometer: http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Caliper-Electronic-Micrometer/dp/B006Y1OWKS
   
4. Backlash Indicator: http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL96414-0-001-Increment-Indicator/dp/B006K8WANQ
   
5. Torque Wrench: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335-2-Inch-Torque-10-150-Foot/dp/B00C5ZL0RU
   
6. 12 ton shop press: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
   
7. Cold Chisel: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6738-Chisel-Punch-12-Piece/dp/B000NPR3IO
   
8. Magnet on a stick
   
9. Needle nose pliers, or whatever pliers will fit
   
10. 3-5lb Maul
    
    Parts needed:
    
11. The gears. duh
    
12. Master rebuild kit with TIMKEN bearings.
    
13. Gear oil.
    
14. Marking compound, if the rebuild kit doesn't come with it... If it doesn't, you bought a cheap kit. shame. SHAME.^SHAME.^SHAME.
    
    On a 8.25...
    
15. Pull diff cover.
    
16. Pull pinion yoke nut.
    
17. Remove center pin bolt, and pull center pin from carrier.
    
18. Push Axle shafts in to the center housing.
    
19. Look for the little C clip inside the carrier. Use you stick magnet to pull them out. Repeat for the other axle.
    
20. Pull axle shafts out of both sides.
    
21. Use your cold chisel to put a mark on the left bearing cap ridge. make one mark. make one mark on the left side housing as well. Make two marks on the right side bearing cap. Make two marks on the right side housing as well. PAY ATTENTION WHEN REASSEMBLING. Bearing caps are side specific, and switching them can result in early bearing failure. Set bearing caps and bearing cap bolts in a clean area.
    
22. Pull out main carrier.
    
23. Put carrier in a vise, and with your torque wrench, remove the bolts holding the ring gear in place. tap the ring gear evenly around the sides to remove.
    
24. Use the Clamshell bearing puller to pull the bearings off the carrier.
    
25. Use the shop press to install the new bearings on the carrier.
    
26. Put the new ring gear on the carrier. Push it on lightly with your hands, install 2-4 bolts to hold it in place. Count the turns as the bolts catch. install the rest of the bolts with the same amount of turns. Tighten all bolts in a star pattern in even increments to 40 ft/lbs. then to 60 ft/lbs. then finally 80 ft/lbs.
    
27. Pull the pinion yoke if you haven't already. pull the pinion. if it doesn't come out, hit it with a hammer. use some wood if you plan on saving the gear set for whatever reason.
    
28. Use cold punch to remove bearing races from the rear of the housing. don't fuck up the housing mating surface, or it'll leak no matter how many times you replace the pinion seal.
    
29. Install the new bearing races with the bearing race set tool and your maul.
    
30. Install the bearing on the pinion.
    
31. Measure the old shims with your micrometer. Install the same thickness shims in the pinion to start.
    
32. Place the pinion in the housing. New bearing should be in place on the pinion and in the housing at this point. IF not, you need to learn to read.
    
33. Measure the thickness of the carrier bearings. Place new bearings of the same thickness to start.
    
34. Place carrier, bearing outer races and shims in all at once.
    
35. Put old crush sleeve and old bearing on the new pinion. A die grinder to grind out some of the inner old bearing race makes a good setup bearing. tighten the pinion nut.
    
36. Place marking compound on 5 ring gear teeth, both sides.
    
37. Spin the carrier to determine pattern. consult pattern guide included with your kit. you kit didn't come with a guide? shoulda bought Yukon gears.
    
38. If you pattern isn't conforming to the guide, add or remove shims from the pinion or carrier.
    
39. Once you think you have a good pattern, setup the dial indicator and measure backlash. Ideal is .8-.12 thousandths. if you're in the .12 or above, or .8 or below, add or remove shims to move the pinion in or out, or the carrier left or right. this can require some time dedication.
    
40. Once your happy with your gears, pull the carrier back out. Install new inner seals if you have them.
    
41. Remove the old crush sleeve and place a new one. Torque to the recommended spec.
    
42. Measure drag on the pinion with the torque wrench. should be ~8-10ft/lbs if i recall.
    
43. Place carrier back in the housing.
    
44. Replace carrier bearing caps and torque.
    
45. Re-torque pinion nut.
    
46. Replace axle shafts.
    
47. Replace c-clips.
    
48. Replace center pin and bolt.
    
49. Replace cover. seal well. sitting overnight is ideal.
    
50. Fill with 80w-90 gear oil.
    
    Go for a drive. If everything was done right, you should now have more power, and no rear end noise. if you do... you need to take the rear apart again, and reset the gears to clear the noise.
    
    I'm sure i forgot something, like thrust washers. Don't crucify me for it. If you want a REAL guide, you need to do more research.

I am no pipe fitter, but i have used a fair number of tools as a bike mechanic.

Hex Keys/Allen Wrenches - Bondhus makes the best hex keys. period. If you have never used a ball end hex key, these things will blow your mind. (as a side note, these Bondhus keys would be your nice set, but you might want a shitty set as well that you are ok whacking with a hammer to release a stuck bolt) also i linked the metric/SAE combo pack because i can hardly believe that you wont be dealing with both. also also i linked the plated set because they will resist corrosion in the bottom of your toolbox better than the black oxide coated wrenches. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00132CGTW/ref=psdc_553414_t3_B000E7ZPUE

Tool kits are generally not a good idea. They often have a lot of tools you don't need, and they tend to be fairly low quality (especially at the price point you're looking at). For what you're trying to do, you only need 4 tools - a metric Allen key set, crank puller, splined BB tool, and Hollowtech BB tool. The crank puller and splined BB tool you probably will never use again, so going cheap on those is fine. But you definitely want a good Allen key set and a good Shimano BB tool is nice to have as well. I'd recommend these items:

Square taper BB removal tool

Crank Puller

Hollowtech II Wrench

Metric Allen keys

Just a simple setup would be, in no particular order:

 

• Vise
  
• AR Tool - I have a powder coated green AR tool, forgot who makes it.
  
• Screwdrivers
  
• Good Lighting - Seriously, a good light source goes a long ways in the ease of building things. I have a drafting lamp very similar to this type.
  
• AR Mat - Useful for putting stuff together (and cleaning of course) your AR on your desk/dinner table, so your wife or SO won't murder you. I have this cleaning mat.
  
• Roll Pin Punches - I used a set of regular punches from Lowe's for a while, i finally got around to getting a set of actual roll pin punches on Amazon recently.
  
• Small Hammer - I got this small 8-ounce hammer on Amazon. It's perfect for use with the roll pin punches.
  
• Mallet - Useful for hitting things without marring up the finish.
  
• Vise Block - I use a Magpul Bev block for work on my lower or upper. Waiting for the next Geissele sale so i can snag a Geissele Super Reaction Rod to replace the Bev block on upper work.
  
• Allen Wrenches - I have this set of 3 hex-torx allen wrenches. Super handy for rails and other mount screws. Might also want a long handle set if you use a hex screw for your pistol grip like i do.
  
• Torque Wrench - I have this Tekton torque wrench for barrels nuts, castle nuts (if you do torque yours, i don't usually), and whatever else needs to be torqued.
  
• Torque Screwdriver Kit - I have this Wheeler Torque Wrench/Screwdriver set, super handy for screws that require a certain torque spec.
  
   
  
  That's what i can think of off the top of my head, you probably won't need all of that if you only plan on building a lower first. It'll be useful down the line to get most of those tools, but i'd go with first:
  
  
• AR tool
  
• Bev Block/Vise Blocks/Reaction Rod
  
• Roll Pin Punches
  
• Vise
  
  If you have Amazon Prime, there's quite a bit of stuff you can get on there, it's where i got most of my tools.
  
   
  
  ^Edit: ^Formatting.

Annnnd here we go again, another crazy but fun contest =)
Thank you!

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I have a bridge to sell you for that interior 😲

These are things I have found especially useful. I've used these more than anything in my huge toolkit, but I'm glad I got it for other general wrenching.

• 3/8" and 1/2" breaker bars and torque wrenches if you don't like to guess whether you're going to strip a fastener like me. I found the Tekton brand is solid for torque wrenches, here's the 1/2" 250ft-lb.
  
  
• 22mm deep well socket (steering wheel)
  
  
• 8, 10, 17mm sockets, deep and standard
  
  
• socket extensions (u-joint probably wouldn't hurt)
  
  
• Flare wrenches, if you're doing the brake lines
  
  
• penetrating oil (liquid wrench or the like)
  
  
• Zip ties
  
  
• Work lamp - I found this one at Menards and it is so useful. Magnetic/rechargeable/lasts for hours
  
  
• Jack/Jack stands: picked up a cheap, durable set of Torin stands with a jack. I was thinking about something from Harbor freight, but I don't want to cheap out with something that I'm relying on to keep the car up.
  
  
• cheap multimeter
  
  
• spare wire (for jumping your oil service light after a DIY change)
  

I have the Tekton 1/4in 20-200 in/lb wrench, I have not had any issues with it. I also have the 10-150ft/lb wrench, but that's pretty much just for the car.

It's not a premium tool, but it works well, and I find them to be a good value for the price. I paid $30 for the torque wrench.

Also remember when you store torque wrenches to set them to 0. That way you remove the load from the ratchet mechanism while it sits around.

I did break one of their box wrenches before, it was 100% my fault. They sent me a new one for free no questions asked.

Fluval sells this simple kit. It does get expensive replacing their specialized cartridges, but it's a good place to start if you're only ready to get your toes wet.

If you want to go bigger, it'll cost more upfront, but is cheaper to maintain.

Amazon Shopping list for CO2 under $200:

Cheap Regulator. There are better/nicer/higher quality ones out there. This one is cheap and okay.

Drop Checker

Diffuser

Check Valve

CO2 tubing

Thread tape

Adjustable wrench

5lb cylinder less than $15 to fill at gas supply store

Here's a list of basics that I bought recently to give you an idea:

Feeler Gauges

Hex Key Wrench Set

String Action Gauge

String Winder

Contact Cleaner for Electronics

Neck Rest

I already have various sized screw drivers, but if I didn't that would be on the list as well.

The above would be enough to do a basic setup: adjust truss rod, adjust action, get into the guts and clean the electronics. Everything will fit in a beat up old shoe box haha.

Along with YouTube videos, this book is a good reference guide. It has everything from basic repair and maintenance information all the way to repairing a broken neck or trying to repair a messed up truss rod.

You can't. You can, but not with a standard air wrench. Air powered wrenchs with a specific torque are multi thousand dollar tools used in factories that have staff that recalibrates them every month.

What you need to do is find a different vehicle and run out to an Oriellys/AutoZone/AdvancedAuto/NAPA. Buy the bolt and do a free tool rental of a torque wrench that has a 44ftlb rating. It will be a wrench that is 2' long or longer. Looks like this. If its the first time using one, set the torque and torque down a random bolt/nut to the rating. Learn the click and get an idea of what 44 ft lbs feels like. Put it on the cab bolt, sneak up to but don't exceed the torque, get the wrench in the right position, handle it such that your arm is 90 degrees from the wrench shaft, and slowing pull until it clicks. Then reposition yourself so you can make a 170 degree turn without ratcheting to put the bolt into the final position.

I would ask a buddy if he has a torque wrench or screw driver in lb/in. If not, here's one I'm probably going to buy. It's best to eliminate as much as you can with the hardware. If everything is to spec, you've at least eliminated your rig. There could be a little bit of cant in your reticle. I'd also read this article to make sure you've eliminated cant in your reticle to the best of your abilities.

Howto post pics to reddit can be found here.

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

There's the analog version from Amazon. I have one, I like it, it seems to work well. I don't have anything to test it against, so I don't know if the torque it puts out is accurate, or if it's the best of the best, but it's good enough for me.

I have a gunsmith set from amazon that has more than you need but has a bunch of useful bits like the punches.

any hex set would do you fine from amazon https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Wrench-Metric-26-Piece-25282/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=hex+set&qid=1557022314&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Buy

($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod

($1o)MOFSET

($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.



Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.

Print

Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2

Z-brace

Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.


The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.

CiiCooler

Glass bed Holder


Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


Buy

($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.

Print

Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.

Buy

($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors


Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

You've got the wrench positioned on what you need to turn, but you need a longer-handle wrench. And you'll need to loosen both sides. Fitting a wrench on on the drive side might be tricky--you'd want a thin wrench to fit in there, or maybe you can take the gear shift mechanism off to get it out of they way. A basic open-ended wrench might fit. And adjustable wrench is less likely to fit, but might, especially a slim jaw one.

But that chain looks shot. I would go ahead and replace it. A single speed chain is cheap. You could even spring for a KMC "rustbuster" chain and be less likely to have this problem in the future. Regular lubing of the chain would also help avoid it in the future.

Hi.

One recommendation for your DH and FSIL: a bidet.

Don't trip out, they are cheap, sturdy, and easy to install. You know that nozzle on the wall behind the toilet? That's where the water for the toilet comes from. You basically stick the bidet right on that line.

Trust me, if I can do it, anyone can do it, you just need an adjustable wrench and a couple of different-sized screwdrivers.

Forget discussing toilet paper, seriously.

And non-digestive issues people need to learn about these things as well, because honestly? This washes your butt, okay. It does not give you an enema!

Usually if you buy a new bike from a shop, they'll offer free tune-ups. I have no idea what that includes, though it probably doesn't include too much of adjusting your bike to fit you - I assume it's more things like truing the wheel (making it straight if it starts to wobble) and re-adjusting the shifting and brakes.

Honestly I think it's good to get handy with an allen wrench & screwdriver, and learn to adjust whatever you can yourself. Self-sufficiency and all. With all the videos on YouTube these days, there's nothing you can't learn. There are bike "repair stations" around campus, some of which haven't had all their tools stolen yet (though as far as I know, none of the tire pumps work anymore), that might at least be a step up from turning your bike upside down outside your dorm for some adjustments.

Seems pretty simple. The only real frame specific stuff you'll need to do are:

• coat the inside of the frame with framesaver (double check with the mfg that it's not already treated) or it will rust from the inside out
  
  
• install BB (possibly face BB surface, up to you)
  
  
  Nothing else is particularly finicky or difficult. Disc brakes can be a bit of a bear, and if you go hydraulic you'll what a bleeding kit. All pretty simply bike stuff after that, e.g. routing lines, tuning derailleurs, etc.
  
  I'd recommend getting a low range torque wrench for things like your crank bolts, brake bolts etc. I've been happy with this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C5ZL2EG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Adjustable wrenches have some perfectly valid uses. Holding the backside nut of a bolt your are tightening, for example - nice low torque use case. Also great for certain uses in bicycle repair (gripping freewheel removal tools and such).

If you want one that can handle some real torque, try this one. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ

The problem comes in that there's lots of jobs they are NOT suitable for.

This took waaaay too long to measure, test and design but I think it was worth it! (although they still don't line up at the angle I wanted :( )

This is a Allen/Hex key holder made for one of these sets or it's equivalents.

Thingiverse Link

It's made to fit in the keyhole slots on this pegboard. Although the mounting brackets are only super-glued on so you can make your own mounting brackets if needed.

If you have any changes you think I should make, please let me know

And if you do print it, be sure to show me a pic please!

Totally man. I don't mind paying for good tools, but after a certain point you just get diminishing returns. The truck guys might make sense for someone who makes a living from their tools and, for some reason, can't drive to a store or wait 2 days for a replacement in the mail, but for anything else there's good tools to be found for reasonable cost.

For example, I love my Tekton 1/2" torque wrench. Thing is sturdy as hell, comes in a nice case, will do anything from 10ftlbs to 150ftlbs, and is only $40. It was the first tool I got from them, and I've been so impressed that nearly all of the hand tools I've purchased sense have been Tekton, if they make the tool in question.

I do occasionally end up at HF if I really need the thing same-day, or don't expect to use it more than a few times a year, but for the basics it's hard to beat Tekton in my experience. Hell, just the other day, I needed a T8 Securty Torx bit, so I ordered this thing and it's way better made than I expected it to be.

Reading back over this, I sound like a corporate shill, but I've found it hard to beat Tekton's intersection of price, quality, and Prime shipping.

Thanks!

• I was hoping the four liters of ready-to-drink water would help me avoid the complexity of collecting/purifying water and be sufficient for the distance/duration I need to walk. Most available water sources near Chicago are pretty polluted with all manor of disgusting stuff, even on a normal day, so I hesitate to risk consuming it. Thoughts?
  
• I had never heard of a silcock key before, but I'll be adding that to the bag. Good suggestion!
  
• I'll also get a multi-tool. The Gerber 01471 seems to get pretty good reviews for the price. Any other suggestions? Ashamed I didn't already think of this...

I've got a Gator Grip socket, but rarely use it. It's fine, I guess, but really doesn't seem as solid as the actual-size sockets.

Never tried the B&D ReadyWrench, but I do have a couple of quad-drive ratcheting wrenches. I'm pretty pleased with them, but it does seem that more often than not, none of their eight sizes are what I actually need at that moment. I imagine if I get the SAE set, I'd use them a lot more than I do the metric.

Sorry for the double up comment, but if you're really interested in a kit, here are each of the tool's they'll give you

Feeler Gauge

Allen Wrench Set (this is actually more comprehensive)

64th inch ruler

Straight Edge (For judging neck relief/bow)

Mini Screwdrivers

String Winder (with wire cutter)

Compare to $60 dollars

$100:(http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Essential_Tool_Kits/Basic_Setup_Kit.html)


This actually seems like a solid deal, but you can get all of these at a hardware store for less and not pay for shipping and wait around for it.

Thanks for the response.

Yes, there is a valve inside the house that is turned off. And I see what you mean about the allen screw and that makes sense about it draining. But you know how there's a pipe between the valve inside the house and this little junction outside? That section of pipe still has water in it that can't drain through the tiny inside drain because there is a vacuum in the pipe.

Are you saying that I need to buy some sort of water valve handle that I stick on top of the silver "plug" to be able to turn it?

EDIT: Oh man, is this what I need? Or perhaps this or this is better.

It depends on the caliber. You don't need an adjustable gas block with 300 blk, but it can help a lot with 5.56. With 5.56, you will generally want an adjustable gas block to limit the gas, an adjustable bolt carrier to vent the gas or, at the very least, an H2 buffer to slow down the bolt carrier.

The adjustable gas block is the most elegant solution, but an adjustable bolt carrier works well and is easier to install for most people. A heavier buffer will help it cycle reliably, but it will still be overgassed.

If you already have an adjustable gas block installed and your handguard holes don't align well with the adjustment screw, you might be able to get to it using ball end hex keys, like these Tekton ones. These will allow you some leeway in terms of the angle you need to get to it. If the area is just completely blocked off, you will have to take off the handguard.

I have 2 sets of hex keys. The metric are blue, and the fractionals are red.
I do find that quite useful. Its not difficult to visually distinguish a 4mm from a 5mm. 5mm and 3/16" on the other hand, the color makes that easy.
Blue metric and red imperial do seem quite consistent across manufacturers, at least here in Australia.

Im not particularly sold on using multiple colors within one set.

Here's what I would personally recommend for a decent minimum starter set, assuming you're just looking for general homeowner/handywork tools:

• 5-in-1 screwdriver
  
• 16 oz. claw hammer
  
• 6 in. adjustable wrench
  
• Measuring tape
  
• Allen wrenches
  
• Pliers
  
  Those are all solid quality tools that I've personally used in the past. There's obviously tons of other stuff you'll need along the way if you're into fixing things but that's a great starting point.

It looks like it'd work, but your rifle should have come with a little baggie with allen wrenches in it, and one of those is specifically for adjusting the sights.

If you don't have this baggie, a full allen key set isn't much more than the tool you linked price-wise (and a full set is definitely more useful, as you'll need an allen key to take the rifle down for cleaning).

This might be excessive, but I wanted to be thorough so you can see what all is out there. I am having trouble thinking of anything that the following tools can't do, in terms of AR building and maintenance. This is basically my setup at home, though some.of the brands and whatnot are different.

I am operating under the assumption that you already have some basic hand tools in addition to the torque wrench.

The only things you absolutely need are roll pin punches and an armorer's wrench and some basic hand tools like Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers and so on. The rest just expedite the process and help solve weird issues that may come up.


Wheeler Engineering Roll Pin Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NWBVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QJZDAb1ZFBQ80

Wheeler Roll Pin Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4JZDAbV5YGA8M

Wheeler Hammer and Punch Set In Plastic Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNZDAb1Y74EF0

Geissele Automatics 10-169 AR15/M4 Reaction Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY6WFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hOZDAbD3JHBAE

Aeroshell 33ms / MIL-G-21164D / MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease + 1/2oz can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4OZDAbQGRYJJ2

TEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PPZDAbQ05H680

TEKTON Long Arm Star Key Wrench Set, T10-T50, 9-Piece | 25291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQZDAbRX59VNW

IRWIN Tools Multi-Purpose Bench Vise, 5-Inch (4935505) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TOCZEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QZDAbT8R47J0

Yost UP-360 Universal 6 Inch Prism Style Jaw Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EVQH42U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aRZDAbRHAV73E

Real Avid Gun Tool Pro - for Modern Sporting Rifles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMHX5KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bUZDAbEB87JFB

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xWZDAb1SRYD6D

Wheeler Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set (43-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN4EWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXZDAbQX5BEWF

TacWater USA AR15/M4/M16 Tools Multi-Purpose Tool Set (W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H5WWZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GYZDAbRGY3CNH

Takedown Pivot PIN Tool set 223 556 6.8 SPC 300 AAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OUSJFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.ZDAbSHZPEG5

Magpul Bev Block https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015877615/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block

Wheeler stuff is okay for one or two builds, but if you plan on tools lasting I would buy them separately. I bought wheeler initially and now have 8 ar's and have re-purchased all tools because the wheeler stuff doesn't last. I like the tapco intrafuse wrench because it has the necessary bottle opener, roll pin punches, plastic/metal hammer, allen keys, PRI upper block, pro mag lower block and if you have a free float handguard I use this spanner.



Edit: On my armalite ar-10t, the FF handguard requires a strap wrench so keep that in mind if you plan to deal with those.

Yes. You definitely should make sure you mount everything with the correct torque. I recommend the Wheeler Fat Wrench for installing scopes, mounts, etc.

I don't know, sorry. If you don't have any wrenches I'd recommend getting something like this, it's a great thing to have in your gear.

I recently bought these guys:

Bondhus 20399 Ball End L-Wrench Double Pack with BriteGuard and GoldGuard Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00132CGTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wtorybZM57TM3

Super great. Got them over 6 months ago and I Haven't had one break yet and I use them all day every day. Plus bondhus has a lifetime warranty.

Its called the gator grip and it seems to be a really useful tool. It's about $16 on Amazon and gets great reviews
Link - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000065CJ8/?tag=rf-ca-10-20

Awesome and congrats!
As far as how it sits it was just temporarily mounted.
The case I thought I had which was large enough for this was not, so I had to disassemble it.

I plan to order one of these, while browsing this sub reddit

Wheeler torque wrench

I just go to Autozone and use "rent a tool" to borrow their breaker bars, torque wrench. They charge your credit card and give you 90 days to return it in same working condition. Having said that I know youtube channel "Chris Fix" recommended one of amazon's best selling torque wrenches for weekend garage diy'ers... here's the link
https://amzn.com/B00C5ZL0RU

• EGW 20 MOA base ($39.99)
  
• 2 x Vortex Tactical 30mm rings ($19.99 x 2)
  
• Primary Arms 4-14x44 FFP ($229.99)
  
• Wheeler FAT torque screwdriver ($44.99)
  
  This will bring you in under $500. You get a first focal plane mil/mil scope with adjustable power with plenty of internal adjustment to dial your elevation. Save up for better glass and upgrade as you go. This setup will get you to 1000 yards easily.

It isn't necessary, but torque wrenches are very useful and versatile tools for cars, motorcycles, lawnmowers, and guns.

Basically, if you like toys, get a torque wrench. They don't have to be expensive.

Get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S
Tourqe it down to spec and do like ppl say. Go from one side to the other. Right tool and technique will get you a correct mount and no chance of squeezing the tube due to excessive force. If your not sure of the needed force something like the tool i linked will give you piece of mind. And i can recommend buying lapping equipment.

Simple nice tools that I have been lusting after (I need a complete set of nice hex keys), and there is a socket set my wife didn't get me last year because it was out of stock.

Also a nice EDC flashlight.

http://www.zebralight.com/

/r/flashlight

I have the bigger brother of the tekton you mentioned: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24340-2-Inch-ft-lb-33-9-338-9/dp/B00C5ZL1NS

Since I drive an F150 with lug nuts that need 150ft/#. And as with most precision devices, they don't operate their best at either extreme.

The thing is solid, and all my tekton tools have been a pleasure to use. But I have read online as I am sure you have that spring types like the tekton can lose calibration A) over time, B) if you do not return to the lowest setting.

The Tekton would be fine probably forever, but if you bite the bullet now you can get the generic version of the snap-on for about 3X: https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC3FR250F-Silver-Torque/dp/B002XMSFIM/

I came across this link on this subreddit about who actually makes the tools for snap-on, and you can find it here: http://www.toolchat.net/

Since most snap-on are just re-branded. The 2nd wrench I linked is a split-beam and does not have the associated accuracy-over-time issues of the spring type ones.

That said, with the Tekton you can spend that other 100$ on more needed tools, then graduate to higher quality over time. Having a spare around is awesome.

good call given the spec for my rims is 120 Nm +/- 10. Given that i think I may order the 1/2 one and get a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer and deal with the bulk when I'm under the car doing an oil change. By that time i may invest in a 3/8 or 1/4. Had to add in I'm so excited to order my Rhino Ramps instead of jacking up my car I'm like a kid in a candy store lol

These Weras are, by far, the best hexes I have ever used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ODV0OE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edited to add: Are you on a carbon or aluminum frame? Sounds like you need fiber grip or something in there.

It's good to have for a lot of jobs. I have this one, works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just got a relatively nice 1/2" Tekton torque wrench for $37. They have a longer one that goes up to 250 ft-lb for $54. I'm not saying it's the best, but it's solidly middle-of-the-road and way better than HF.

Torque wrenches are precision equipment and should be treated as such. Don't apply more than 150 ft-lb in the reverse direction (i.e. dont use it as a breaker bar). For the models that have to be stored with the torque set at the lowest setting... make sure you do that.

In my experience, 85% of "gunsmiths" are FUDDs. I've had some who refused to remove the pin & weld on a *stripped* barrel (it was not even connected to an upper, even though that wouldn't have made a difference because the lower is serialized/the firearm) because it would have violated the NFA. And he was extremely popular in the area and a complete koala-dick prick.

Meanwhile, I know a guy who supposedly took an AK to have the barrel chopped when it was still connected to the serialized receiver... and technically that'd make the gunsmith the maker and not the dude who had done the Form 1.

I know it's not what you're looking to do, but I strongly suggest you treat yourself to some self-education and invest in a torque wrench ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and also a do-all tapco wrench (yes Tapco, but the wrench is GTG: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/ar-15-m16-armorer-s-tool-prod54530.aspx Sadly, amazon doesn't have it atm). With these two things, you will be able to master your upper receiver/barrel group life.

Then, YouTube has all the videos you need on replacing the barrel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NjNEQr4lCM&list=PLmovdvtE7X-iTinH_f2fTsVW6CWYMPcln&index=4&t=0s It's very much not that difficult.

It's worth it, I promise. You'll pay that much anyways just for one barrel change. And you can do it yourself, for the first time, in just 2 hours to account for the hemming/hawwing. Afterwards, with experience, it takes ~20min (removing the handguard, replacing, etc.).

I hadn't thought of that! The spindle and the plastic thing came right out, but I still don't see how to get the bearings out. Doesn't seem like there's anything to grab.

Here's the best photo I could get: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPeSZ6aTxUmpD4i2oxJEBpGNujdhnTWNVsjZoM6

You really think it'll come out? I was oing to order this: https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-8WCB-WideAzz-Adjustable-Opening/dp/B001I70C34?crid=1FA0967YL9CAD&keywords=adjustable+wrench&qid=1540757299&sprefix=adjustable+wren%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-18&ref=sr_1_18

If you buy from PSA, I'd recommend using a pre-paid credit card, as they've had site security issues in the past.

I think by "80% lower" you may have been thinking of a stripped lower, where all you have is the aluminum lower, with none of the controls installed. A stripped lower is s great place to start! YouTube has a bunch of easy how-to videos. I recommend /u/nsz85 videos, which I used for my first build.

Some other things you'll want to have handy:

Vice Block for Lower

Vice Block for Upper

Roll pin starter kit

Rubber Mallet

Torque Wrench

These are the basics, and once you buy them, you'll never have to buy them again for future builds. There's other tools out there to consider, but get you started.

Best of luck!

EDIT: shit, how could I forget the AR Wrench!

Buy a torque wrench. They're important to have and not terribly expensive either. This one has worked great for me. $35.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335-2-Inch-ft-lb-13-6-203-5/dp/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1524178399&sr=1-3&keywords=torque+wrench+1%2F2+inch+drive

Save the money you would have spent on a gunsmith and buy a $50 torque wrench.

Depending on the rings you buy, you may need blue loctite. Before you tighten anything, close your eyes and find your natural cheek weld. Open your eyes and move the scope forward or back to suit. Level the scope. You can use bubbles, but I find squaring a flat surface on the bottom of the scope to the rail is more foolproof. Use torque wrench to tighten everything following instructions that come with the rings.

Kitchen knife? Henckels international classic paring knife?

https://smile.amazon.com/J-Henckels-International-CLASSIC-Utility/dp/B00004RFMO/

I might not say that it'll last half a century but I'm happy with my atactical a1.

https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Bushman-Sheath-95BUSKZ/dp/B00BD4W54Q/

https://smile.amazon.com/Kershaw-Toughness-Durability-Edge-Holding-Capabilities/dp/B00AU6BFDK/

https://smile.amazon.com/Kershaw-Modified-SpeedSafe-Reversible-Glass-Filled/dp/B06XR8XTJP/

https://smile.amazon.com/Bondhus-20199-Balldriver-L-Wrench-1-5-10mm/dp/B00012Y38W/

https://smile.amazon.com/Estwing-Hammer-Straight-Smooth-Reduction/dp/B0000224VG/

Some wiha screwdrivers

Lifetime warranty https://smile.amazon.com/Fiskars-8-Inch-Forged-Scissors/dp/B00114LTMC/

I picked these up a few days ago. Amazing quality for the price, wish I'd just bought a decent set from the outset.

Very nice $40 range: PB Swiss colored ball end hex wrench

Nice, functional, affordable, $13: [Wera] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003KN3HOU/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1480909227&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wera+hex+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=41NfJ1Ss1CL&ref=plSrch)

Complete set, metric & sae, made in usa, $24 Bondus

Ok, cool. I have this one from Amazon:
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00FMPKAD0

Since it's rated for 80 ft-lbs, I should be ok for the 50 ft-lbs torque specified in the Curt install sheet.

It's not difficult, you just need the tools to pull your current handguard off and remove the barrel nut (because most handguards comes with their own proprietary barrel nut). Then you'll thread on your new barrel nut, tighten it down to roughly 30ftlbs, install the new handguard, and you're done.

You'll probably need an AR15 armorers wrench, anti-seize/grease of some sort (I like Loctite Anti-Seize, but some people have heartburns over what to use. Something is better than nothing), and a torque wrench. And probably also another inch-lb torque wrench.

As for the quality of the handguard, I've never used that one, so I can't speak for it.

You can get a beam style torque wrench for about ten bucks. You don't need one for this project, but it's a fair excuse to get one. I'm sure you'll use it in the future.

good idea for "to change flat tire". in the shop today, I want to use my hand tool to loose that lug nuts to make sure it's smooth, that piss off the boss, he asked me to get lost. I should come up with a reasoning of "just in case I need to change flat tire".

>remove them often enough
do you remove them every 3 months or 6 months? I usually didn't touch it if there is need to, such as to change a flat tire.

> Torque it down, dry
you dry the lug nuts before put it on? May I know what's the purpose?

Thank you for your recommendation of the 3 tools, do you think these 3 looks Ok:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2Lfk_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=CWTA8X0BR49HVQ186Y8Y&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=365b646d-0ab5-53c3-9063-fe500e13a356&pf_rd_i=559968

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-2-in-drive-quick-release-teardrop-ratchet/p-00944809000P

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-15356-2-Inch-24-Inch-Breaker/dp/B00MWVAUT6


Thank you!

For sparkplugs, engine air filter, and cabin filter you can DIY for much less if you're inclined, need a torque wrench and the bmw spark plug socket

total: ~130 + tax/shipping if any (amazon prime?)

Takes about an hour to do, maybe 2 if you're not mechanically inclined. These are all done at the same time in the same steps (you have to to remove the cabin air filter housing anyway to get to the spark plugs)

You need a socket wrench and socket for removing the cabin air filter and the torque wrench and the spark plug socket and thats it. Plenty of DIYs online you can just follow

plugs ~34

socket tool ~10

torque wrench ~$30

cabin air filter ~$27

air filter ~28

Rear brakes 277 seems okay, maybe a tiny bit high by a few dollars

That sucks. Sorry :-(

Personally, I've always preferred this style of torque wrench, it's significantly cheaper aswell: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Classic-Needle-Style-8-Inch-2-Inch/dp/B0019VMI0Y [note that that's just the first link that came up when I googled "torque wrench needle"; it's definitely not a product recommendation]

I also recommend getting a bit more of an intuition for the numbers; 19 ft lbs really ain't much torque. That's like... "I gave it a good twist". It's good if you have the mental check in place that "I know I had to go to 19, but this feels pretty hard".

If you need to get an intuition about this stuff, think about the units; you know what twenty pounds feels like, and you know how long a foot is. Imagine putting about 20 pounds of force on a foot-long wrench... that's 20 foot-pounds.

$15 disagree.

For gxp a beam wrench is actually better than a clicky one imo because the torque required is pretty high.

Torque wrench

Socket set

Hex sockets

1/2 inch Ratchet

1/4 inch Ratchet

Combo wrench set

Calipers

Chain tool

Pretty close to everything you'll ever need to work on a bike, besides specialty tools. Buy or borrow other stuff when the issue comes up! You can do it!!

Edit: Added calipers.

ProTip: A set of Bondhus hex drivers changed my life. I haven't ruined a printer screw in months.

These wrenches are the best there is:

Bondhus 20399 Ball End L-Wrench Double Pack with BriteGuard and GoldGuard Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00132CGTW

And drivers:

Bondhus 10687 Set of 7 Balldriver... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O4ADI

> Get yourself a prybar (Like This but better ).

If one really felt the need for a prybar, I'd go with a proper breaching tool like any of these

• https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-FatMax-Xtreme-55-120-FuBar/dp/B000VSSG3O
  
  At 8lbs and change though it's not something you just want to be toting around in your bag.
  
  A sillcock key (you've seen what these are used on if you've ever got bored in a drive-thru line) might be handy too as a last resort for water /u/Practical_Citizen
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YVMEM/

A breaker bar along with an appropriately-sized deep 6pt socket (19mm is most cars these days) should fit in your trunk no-problem and will kick the shit out of a tire iron. Should still be able to remove the wheels even if you accidentally let jiffy lube rotate your tires and they didn't bother with an appropriate torque stick.

You can buy a beam style torque wrench for less than $20 so that in the future you can torque away confident that you're not grossly exceeding or undershooting the correct torque value: https://www.amazon.com/Tooluxe-03703L-Torque-Wrench-Hardened/dp/B0019VMI0Y/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8SE6HAEEYYSXHDKN6EJS

One of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-PST154-4-Way-Sillcock/dp/B0002YVMEM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467130447&sr=8-2&keywords=sillcock+key

Useful for getting water from gas stations. A lot of times the faucet will need a sillcock key. When I go inside and ask for permission, sometimes they say they don't know where the key is, but I say I have my own... then they let me use their water.

Easy peasy.

I personally wouldn't buy a torque wrench from HF they are very good for certain things that are solid metal (socket, crescent wrench) but anything more technical I may not trust them. I purchased this torque wrench from amazon and it has served me well at $30 10-80ftlb.

No problem, in no particular order of relevance, a few other great ones to consider are:

Knipex Pliers Wrench - My single favorite tool ever

Felco C7 Cable Cutters - You can usually find these used and sharpened for $20 on eBay

Dualco Grease Gun - Your bike needs grease, this makes it easy

Motorex 2000 Waterproof Grease - Can grease be beautiful? I think so. Exactly like the Dura Ace grease

Wera Hex+ Keys - I know you have some already, but the slightly scalloped faces of these "hex plus" keys really do allow you to remove very stuck fasteners without stripping, and I have even removed bolts stripped with standard keys

Something like this is all you'll need. I've used my tekton a bunch and it stays accurate. If you have amazon prime it's like $25

My current favorite:

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-2-26-22-6/dp/B00C5ZL2EG

For higher torque values, you'll need to go up to the 3/8" drive version.

Don't be stupid. Get a decent torque wrench.

For $30, Amazon is your friend:

TEKTON 24330 3/8-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-80 ft.-lb./13.6-108.5 Nm)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FMPKAD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_HzgxzbAME8322

Yes, it will xome in handy. Get yourself one of these or better yet the whole kit that comes with lapping bars and everything.

If you want to build an AR on your own (grown man legos ftw) I suggest you build one. You can build a quality AR on the cheap. There is a barrier to entry from the tools you will need but from there on out you can use those tools for multiple builds. At a minimum you will need:

• AR Armorer's Tool
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007352657/tapco-multi-tool-ar-15 <- I got this one
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/925925/magpul-ar-15-armorers-wrench-multi-tool-steel-black <- the best one and most $$$
  
• http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/ar-15-armorer-s-wrench-prod80294.aspx <- decent trade off
  
• 1/2 inch torque wrench
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• 1/2 inch breaker bar
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00206A-Premium-Breaker-Length/dp/B001222378/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505016107&sr=8-3&keywords=breaker+bar
  
• torque screwdriver
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• vice
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Yost-LV-4-Home-Vise-4-1/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1505016377&sr=1-2&keywords=vise <- bolt to workbench type
  
• https://www.amazon.com/SE-8436MVC-Universal-Table-Vise/dp/B0013E2AQY/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1505016377&sr=1-7&keywords=vise <- clamp on type
  
• upper vice block
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/210021/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-upper-receiver-ar-15-action-vise-block-clamp
  
• lower vice block
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/855360/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block
  
• moly lithium grease/aeroshell 33 MS grease
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• loctite 242 (blue) and 271 (red)
  
• roll pin punch set
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engineering-Delta-Roll-Install/dp/B01B3NWDIE
  
• You will also likely need some basic tools, like a hammer, screwdriver set, hex tool set, etc.
  
• OPTIONAL: scope bubble level; for use if you mount a scope
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/529349/wheeler-engineering-level-level-level-scope-crosshair-leveling-tool <- basic version, will work
  
• https://www.midwayusa.com/product/189016/wheeler-engineering-professional-reticle-leveling-system <- fancier version. easier to use
  
• OPTIONAL: gun vice
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Tipton-181181-Best-Gun-Vise/dp/B001AT3SCC/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1505017850&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=gun+vice <- I like this one but there are cheaper options out there. Also, no you cannot replace an actual vice with this. This is more of a "holder" and won't be able to stand up to the torque you'll have to apply to some barrel nuts (30-80 ft lbs).
  
  ---
  
  As for AR parts you can go pretty basic with an Anderson lower (~$45 not including paperwork). Or you can get a "better" lower that has build in ambi mag release, that tab that prevents rattling (can't remember what it's called atm), etc. The lower will last you through multiple builds. I'm still rocking the Anderson lower on this ~$4,500 build so it's definitely versatile.
  
  From there you can also go basic with the upper, where I suggest an Aero Precision (~$65). From there you'll need a BCG, barrel, handguard, buffer tube (technical term is receiver extension), stock, pistol grip, trigger, and lower and uppers parts kits.
  
  If you want something you can just go and shoot and don't care to modify, then buy a pre-built AR. If you want to build one to custom fit your needs then I suggest you put down the money on the tools. Best part about the tools is that you can fix and replace most issues that comes up with your or your friends ARs.
  
  Also don't forget to buy some liquid blue and aluminium black just in case.

Dont buy a harbor freight torque wrench. I bet your hand is more accurate. Seriously, HF stuff is just a waste of money.

If you want to own one, spend a little bit more and have some patience. This one will do and its only $40.

If you dont want to spend $40, go to Autozone and rent one for free. You pay them the price of the wrench and then bring it back in 48 hours for a full refund. It a program they started to stop people from buying and returning tools all the time and its great. I think O'Riley has something similar too.

I got a few craftsman tools recently and while I bet they are overall "fine" I've been pretty disappointed with a few of them. I would also look to gearwrench, a bit higher quality and the price isn't much worse.

I'd buy this (1/4 and 3/8th sets) - $109

http://www.coastaltoolsupply.com/product/KDT-80550F.html

Half inch impacts and ratchet - $130

http://www.coastaltoolsupply.com/product/KDT-84949N.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BTEXPNU/ref=twister_B0154R8KHI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Wrenches, long pattern full polish and a free knife. - $118

http://www.coastaltoolsupply.com/product/KDT-81900KF.html

Ratcheting wrenches - $50

http://www.sears.com/gearwrench-20pc-combination-ratcheting-wrench-set-sae-mm/p-00935720000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=20&blockNo=20&blockType=G20

Screwdrivers - $28

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-17-pc-screwdriver-set/p-00931794000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

Hex keys - 18 dollars

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Wrench-Metric-26-Piece-25282/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502574535&sr=1-3&keywords=hex+keys

Half inch extensions - 25 dollars

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-81300-Piece-2-Inch-Extension/dp/B000NI93M0/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000NI93M0&pd_rd_r=XREV1D7B7335G71T6D92&pd_rd_w=JLtGU&pd_rd_wg=3k6AP&psc=1&refRID=XREV1D7B7335G71T6D92

Total of 475 dollars, most of that ships free if you have prime, the rest from coastal tool supply ships for 8.95 flat rate or something. You could buy nut drivers or hex headed sockets with the rest of the money. Should be similar amount of useful tools, but much better ratchets. You could cut down the screwdriver set if you wanted and add stubby wrenches or something else. Again, that craftsman set would probably be fine, but I hate those ratchets and don't have any need for ignition wrenches and that extra stuff.

This guy works good for stuff like that too.

http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8

Most shops have a little blurb on the work order telling you to stop back by in 100 miles to have the torque checked. No one ever does but this is the reason it exists. In my personal experience the basic ugly steel wheels are usually fine but the fancy bling rims need to be retorqued quite often.

Stop back by next week and ask them to check the torque on all of them. Better yet go get yourself a torque wrench so you can do this yourself for the rest of your life. This one is cheap and will work fine. The beam type are pretty much good forever. (fixed link to one that will actually work)

Link!

Happy Zambambo!

Fat wrench is the best thing ever. Amazon

The best $10 you'll spend this year.

This thing is great for holding a nut behind something .
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ

These are the ones I have:

https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05073593001-Multicolor-Metric-Blacklaser/dp/B009ODV0OE

The color-coding is surprisingly useful.

They also have a stainless set that is specifically for stainless fasteners.

https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10999-Balldriver%C2%AB-L-wrenches-1-5-10mm/dp/B0006O4AEM

That should cover you for a lot of bike stuff. Bondhus is a really respectable American brand. It's on Amazon, and their stuff is really affordable, but it's not cheap Amazon crap. Make sure you buy directly from Amazon for the seller, and avoid Amazon Warehouse.

Just pick up a gator grip socket.. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000065CJ8

That's what I use for scenarios like yours. They have them at Sears and places like that that sell tools.

I would start with the basis of a get home bag, which should have you covered for basic first aid, food/snacks to sustain you for the duration needed to hoof it home, a water container and a means to acquire more water (speaking of which, you may find this device handy in an urban environment), and a way to remain comfortable in the elements (jacket, sunscreen, bug spray, etc).

As far as weapons are concerned, you might consider a fixed blade knife around 6 inches in length, some mace/pepper spray, or a collapsible baton (18-21" ought to cover it as far as concealment and effectiveness goes). Make sure you're up on the laws though, and be sure to train, train, train.

As far as he's wrenches, I'd recommend ball ends like theseTEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_89DRAbKQ3YGR7

Just get a torque wrench and whatever socket fits your lug nuts. Look up what your car is supposed to have and just leave the wrench set to that.

Check it up every few months, only takes like 10 seconds to do and doesn't need any special skill to accomplish. If you can use a screwdriver you can use a torque wrench, just makes a loud click when it hits the setting. Sure beats going to a tire place every time you need to do that.

Some of the less intuitive acccessories I've found helpful:

• Foam/Soft padding for under printer. This helps reduce the vibrations from the printer traveling into the surface it's sitting on and producing additional noise (though the i3 MK3 is supposed to be remarkably quiet.) I use a rubber paver, but I've seen foam mats or other soft-cell products.
  
• If your table is shaky, a paving stone can also help eliminate wobble and vibrations
  
• I didn't plan to have an enclosure since I wasn't interested in ABS, but even my PLA prints had a little bit of warping and pulling off the bed. Adding a casual enclosure made of plastic sheeting did wonders. (Not my writeup, but same idea. I used 6-mil leftover from work for durability.)
  
• I wasn't originally comfortable leaving the printer home alone printing, but even a moderately-size print takes most of a day, so I added a Wyze IP Camera, a TP-Link Internet-Controlled Outlet, and a smoke-detector to my setup. Now I can monitor the printer from anywhere, and at the very least kill power if it looks like things are going awry. An Octoprint setup would be more snazzy.
  
  Here's the tools I use most frequently in 3d printing and assembly - I suspect you'll have most of these from modelling work:
  
  
• Digital Calipers for measuring existing objects and calibrating printer.
  
• Putty Knife for removing prints from bed.
  
• Metric Hex Key Set with Ball Ends for making adjustments to printer/adding parts
  
• #1/#2 Philips head screwdriver
  
• Precision Philip Screwdriver
  
• Assorted M3 Hardware. (I standardized on M3, you could choose another size or diversify). I recommend some heat-fit threaded inserts at any size.
  
• Cheapie Rotary Tool with cutoff wheel, sanding/buffing attachments, engraving bit.
  
• Needle Files
  
• Sandpaper - 120, 220, 400 grit.
  
• Superglue/CA Glue
  
• Needle-nose Pliers, nice and fine tip
  
• Flush Cutters, I'm partial to the actual Hakkos.

I bought this guy off Amazon and I've been very pleased with it.

I've heard Snap On and Bondhus(amazon link) make good stuff. Snap On will replace any tool that breaks, no question, and I don't really know anyone who doesn't love their Snap On tools. They seem trickier to buy online though, but you could check your local Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, etc. Bondhus seems to have good prices for still quality tools, and they're on Amazon. You could also try Craftsman, though I'm not sure if you have a Sears near you and if they'll even be in business too much longer.

Be careful: they are certainly less appealing than quick releases or even hex nuts, but they can be unscrewed really easily with one of these. A couple years ago Pinhead started including brackets with the setup that make that method impossible, though. You can get the brackets sent to you from Pinhead if you have older ones.

Fair enough but because I wished to avoid doing actual work I googled the devices reviews and Mr/Ms queef is correct in the fact that this device does often easily break when presented with anything but light duty.

I accept your statement though that just because things have moving parts they aren't necessarily prone to breaking but doesn't moving parts increase the likelyhood of breaking?

I just get whatever is cheap from home depot/hardware store/target/etc.

But if you want specific kits or multitools, try:

https://shop.animalbikes.com/hard-goods/tools/kotulak-multi-tool.html on sale makes it more worth it otherwise pretty expensive

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Long-Wrench-13-Piece-25262/dp/B00I5THFR4/

https://www.amazon.com/40-Pieces-EPAuto-Reversible-Ratchet/dp/B01LZEMYOD/

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-23003-8-Inch-Adjustable-Wrench/dp/B00FFUPRXK/

Like I said, I don't like to buy "bike tools". Unless you really feel the need to get some compact multi tool for "reasons". I like to buy tool sets for the house so I have tools. Then take what I need for the bike with me in a backpack.

Those multi tools aren't gonna feel comfortable in your pocket anyway. Have a backpack. Have everything you need in it. And if you drive to a spot it stays in your car or if you're riding you carry it around but since you're already carrying a pack it's not much different if it's individual tools or a singular piece.

Now if you want to get it fixed professionally, by all means do so. But I wouldn't let lack of a torque wrench hold you back. This 1/2" drive one is only $40. I'm sure it's not the world's greatest torque wrench, but Tekton has a decent reputation. Harbor freight sells a 1/4" drive for $10 (after coupon, ~$20 otherwise).

You can rent a lot of specialty tools for bearings, etc from part stores like Autozone or Orielly's. I haven't seen anything saying they rent torque wrenches, but I'd give them a call at least.

>but be careful with cheap torque wrenches. They're made in China and are rarely calibrated accurately.

Any suggestions which brands would be not cheap? and what should I expect to pay for a decent torque wrench?


Also below are both 3/8 wrenches one is measured in inches 120-960 the other is feet, 10-80, which converts to the same exact measurements, is there a benefit to having a wrench in inches over feet or vice versa?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FMPKAD0

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL12Y

no, no torque wrench in the kit, but I probably wouldn't want a "kit" torque wrench. This kit just gives you basically every and any size socket you will ever need, plus a lot of wrenches, a screw driver with changeable bits, and a few other things. I got this one on Amazon, I've cranked on it up to 140 lbs on my Toro zero degree mower and it's great.

Thanks to everyone for your help! I bought all the tools you mentioned (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Drive-Socket-Extension-SHA11106/dp/B07R8JQKGK

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-ft-lb-13-6-108-5/dp/B00FMPKAD0

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-Tools-22887-Magnetic-Socket/dp/B00AXTKZ26)

and just replaced the spark plugs. Here is a photo of the old one. It seems it is not that worn, but I have replaced the four anyway.

Here’s the manual hand tool, no vibration, way if anyone needs that:

Crank Pulley Holder Tool $15

Short Breaker Bar $14

Long Breaker Bar $35

Plus, the correct size 1/2 deep socket that fits on your crank bolt. $10-15

• Jack up the front of the car high.
  
• Put the pulley holder and small breaker on — to hold the pulley in place.
  
• Stick breaker handle between some strong suspension parts. This is going to hold the crank from spinning counter clockwise.
  
• Put your long breaker and socket on the bolt.
  
• Stand in-front for the driver headlight, and put your weight on the long breaker with your foot.
  
  I usually have someone look it everything is saying put while I put my weight on it.
  
  If you have a hard time getting enough clearance you can do the jack stand and multiple extensions trick.
  
  P.S. These guys used pipe instead of the long breaker, and socket wrenches instead — I would use breakers for both. How to Video
  
  Just be careful if you know it’s seized or suspect it is. Then you’ll need to explore other methods. Don’t want to snap the bolt.
  
  Then if you want to torque to spec, then a long torque that can hit your needed ft/lbs.
  example

Hex keys, as in hexagon, are allen keys/wrenches. Ikea sometimes includes the necessary tools in their kits.
In order to keep costs low, Ikea won't make any proprietary tooling or hardware, so everything can be built with a basic toolset. The same goes for most products since the Industrial Revolution. :)

You should have an SAE and Metric hex set like this. They're cheap!

I have this set https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-20399-L-Wrench-BriteGuard-GoldGuard/dp/B00132CGTW/r Ive had a small cheater on some of the larger ones and they've held up. Sometimes they fit a little tight, which is good and bad depending on the situation. The bright finish is great if you set them down on something dark. The holder is OK but the 3/8 and 10mm falls out sometimes. Ive had mine 3 years. I give it 9/10

> 15 nm

ah, bummer, that's right in the range where small cheap ones are too small and the large ones are too large.

the only decent, but relatively cheap one i could find was a tekton one, which i use now

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-20-200-Inch/dp/B00C5ZL2EG

that said, if you know what 15nm feels like, you could probably get close enough and be fine- seat bolt specs are a lot tigher than most other bolts on a bike

For $30 in Canada these are fantastic.

Bondhus 20199 Balldriver L-Wrench Double Pack, 10999 (1.5-10mm) and 10937 (0.050-3/8-Inch) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00012Y38W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Q2cMAbPH38R3Q

I have his exact set and I use them all the time.

Best of both worlds right here:
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ

I bought two.. Couldn't be happier

can you show me what these are supposed to look like? When I think of allen wrenches I think of those little bendy straws made out of metal

I also can't find a wrench that goes by the name of a newton meter torque wrench. Is there another way to say it?

This is all I was able to find when I looked it up. :(

Just make sure you get an inch pounds wrench and not a foot pounds wrench.

Tekton wrench has worked well for me https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-2-26-22-6/dp/B00C5ZL2EG

Use Vortex rings. I have them on my Ruger American and they are amazing. I can't remember which model they are but /u/vortexoptics can chime in. I use the ones that have size screws. I got my torque wrench on Amazon for like $45 from wheeler. Here it is.

I'm gonna poke around vortex website and see if I can find the rings for you. This is they. They are not the best thing Votex offers and I can't even find them on their website anymore hence why I had to hunt down amazon. These things work though. They aren't as good as some of my other rings but you can't beat the quality for the price.

this is the norm. Good reviews too, or you could go crazy.

As some of the other posters indicated, you will need a hex key. This is the standard screw on most bathroom accessory installations, e.g., towel racks, faucet handles, toilet paper roll holders, etc.

You don't need to worry about digging around to find the original hex key as a standard hex key will fit - you just need the right size.

Here's a link to a set on Amazon: Hex Key Set

You can also find these sets at the usual suspects, e.g., Ace, Home Depot, etc.

Mine are the Stanley model; they work the same way but they have a lever that unlocks them like a pair of vise-grips. I think they're a little quicker/easier to use one-handed than the ones in the OP's picture, but the function should be the same.

Edit: here ya go.

I said wrench but I mean something like this

• Silcock key
  
  • Most businesses and buildings have a water access on the outside of the building that uses a silcock key instead of a typical hose with a hand valve.

If you want a torque wrench/screw driver for scope mounting or other light smithing work Wheeler makes a good one.

Tekton 24320. Print out an nm-to-in/lbs conversion chart to save yourself a headache.

This one is not overly expensive at $38 and has very good reviews. http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4nch-To-Irque-20-200-Inch/dp/B00C5ZL2EG/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1427333182&sr=1-3&keywords=torque+wrench

I do not want to detract from how awesome this is, nor do I think that this is as cool as the using another hook hack in this thread, but I use one of these for this job:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8

the wrong tool for any job!

this on the other hand, is a good tool when you can't find the goddamn 1/2" socket...why does the 1/2" always go missing? every socket set should come with 3 of them.

Most scope rings/bases use 15-30 in-lbs. I'd highly recommend this one:


Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eBqpxbSC2XE5G

This is the one that most people end up buying. I've had it for a couple years, 5 stars! It comes with all the bits you'll need.

I got a tekton one for about $40 on Amazon, it doesn't have to be high dollar as the torque range is huge. I built my dad's without one and just went to the next gas tube spot past "tight" never had any issues and that thing shoots. That method wouldn't work so well for the aero Handguards that have 4 spots for the gas tube and a set of shims though so I got one for a friend's build.

TEKTON 24335 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb./13.6-203.5 Nm)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LNTWAbP1FXQPT

Oh not a torque screwdriver...just plain old hex head screwdriver. It’s a lot more comfortable in places than an Allen wrench.

Neewer - Set of 4 Hexagonal Screwdrivers Made of Titanium Nitride with Coloured Handles.Compatible with 1.5, 2, 2.5 and 3mm Screws. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CP2GGBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ayGWCb3WM9CY3

I was nervous that the Bondhus wrenches wouldn't be as good as the fancy Silca ones. And indeed the shafts of the smaller ones are not perfectly straight. However this has had absolutely 0 impact on how easy they are to use. The Bondus set rocks and is super cheap. https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10999-Balldriver-L-wrenches-ProGuard/dp/B0006O4AEM

loctite blue and aeroshell 33ms for the barrel install, also great for installing a freefloat handguard and scope mounts. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ive found luck with this punch set, although the 3/32 did bend a smidge when I was pounding the hell out of it when pinning my gas block. also a rollpin starter punch set is a nice addition.

https://www.amazon.com/Fixxxer-Hollow-Stainless-Steel-Starter/dp/B0191RFK4I/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1480117372&sr=1-4&keywords=starter+punch+set

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012TKY0VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Related question are the locking ones any good ? Link www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ

This is the one I have in my garage.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24340-2-Inch-ft-lb-33-9-338-9/dp/B00C5ZL1NS/
The 25 to 250 ft lbs will cover 99.9% of everything on a passenger vehicle, and the 1/2 inch drive is a good size for the sockets that will be used for wheels and suspension.

Here is a torque wrench

TEKTON 24340 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (25-250 ft.-lb./33.9-338.9 Nm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL1NS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8xKQybQQE21EE

Should be easy to learn how to use with YouTube.

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Wrench-Metric-13-Piece-25272/dp/B00I5THFR4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=metric+allen+wrenches&qid=1556734713&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Instead of buying that one tool, I'd highly recommend just getting a full Allen wrench set for a couple bucks more.

http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Pc-Allen-Wrench-Set-/dp/B0025ZA3EQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1449593573&sr=1-2&keywords=allen+wrench+set

The InSinkErator tool is just a 1/4" allen wrench.

I can't say with any certainty but it wouldn't surprise me if many electricians don't use torque tools.

I'm not a pro but I got me one of these "firearms" torque screwdrivers because I like to do it as correctly as possible.

Failing that I'd say that it's probably better to over-tighten than to under-tighten, so long as you don't strip or break the threads.

From my experience, no hex drivers will last a lifetime. I use these. They're not fancy, but they are high quality hex wrenches.

I have been building and racing RC cars for 20+ years, and I am also an engineer who has been building machines for about the same amount of time. I replace my hex wrenches every couple of years because they wear out and round over. This will happen to any hex wrenches because of variations and deformation of screw heads. For less than $20 you can have a full set of standard and metric wrenches, and they can be used for more than just RC cars.

Hope this helps.

Agreed, a beam style torque wrench is very low cost, its better than nothing.

Example:

Tooluxe 03703L 3/8" and ½" Dual Drive Beam Style Torque Wrench, Hardened Steel | 0-150 Ft. Lbs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019VMI0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.qFOAb5TD8J52

Are you sure that you aren't thinking of Pinheads and the Gator Grip? And even for Pinheads, apparently they have something on them now that prevents the Gator Grip for working.

Oh damn, I'd honestly shy away from using loctite on mounts. Look into a torque wrench and once you're at spec you won't need loctite. I've got this one and have mounted about a dozen scopes with it: http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S

Thanks, clear lower gets a lot of questions at the range.

It really depends on your needs. I think for most people and bikes, it's totally unnecessary to have torque wrenches. When I bought mine (this one), I was really shocked at how high the torque specs were for cockpit components/seatpost/FD clamp/etc. I found myself going 1/2 to a full turn tighter than I ever would have on my own, and I've never had trouble with parts slipping on me in the past. Just use assembly paste and/or grease in the appropriate places.

That said, I do still use it, including to install chainring bolts on my Quarq, and it gives me some peace of mind.

For pedals, it's definitely not needed. Pedals only need to be installed to 'snug' because pedaling action tends to tighten them up over time. I can't think what else on a bike you'd need that higher torque range for, but maybe that's because I only know road bikes.

For urban I like a sillock key. Though a Leatherman can pseudo fill the role.

Sounds like you need a torque wrench made for small arms.

I like the channel lock wide azz or even just the normal non wide azz ones if you need bigger than 8 inches. they are made in Spain by Irega and I have never had any issues with them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/

I like this one, as you end up with more stuff in the 10-150lb range than you do the 25-225 lb range.

Try a metric style hex key like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THFR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1j5rDb2P4GM5C

Buy this grease:

White lightning grease

Buy this general lubricant:

Triflow

Buy this multi-tool:

Alien II It includes all common allen and wrench sizes, a chain breaker, and spoke wrench.

Buy this socket set:

Ice tools 8 x 9 x 10

Get this adjustable wrench:

Wrench

Buy these tire levers:

Park tool levers

With all of that you should have more than enough to do basic maintenance with under $80 worth of tools.

As you get more skilled, you'll need some specialized tools for the bottom brackets, headsets, and cones on your wheels but those will vary by type/bike, and in time you will own multiple bikes so buy the tools when you when you need them.

I got mine from Princess Auto, which is a Canadian chain something like Harbour Freight. They have a surplus section where all kinds of neat things show up from time to time.

Stanley makes one with a conventional handle. A spud makes using a cheater easier, but at least Stanleys don't have a bulb at the handle end.

Just speaking from experience man, was having so many issues with my AK scope until I saw someone on here recommend it, no issues since.

This is the one I picked up https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seemed to work well enough.

If the bike you have fits you and hasn't been terribly abused it might be worth just keeping it. 550 is going to buy another entry level-ish bike. $200 in tools and parts can fix most issues, and you can keep up on your own maintenance from then on.

A 9 speed chain and chain tool. 30 bucks

[Brake and Shifter Cables and housing ]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXV23A7/) and cable cutter $50

9 speed cassette HG400 and Lockring tool $35

Cone Wrenches 13/14 13/15 15/16 17/18 $20 for repacking hub grease $11

allen wrenches $11

None of this is very difficult to do if you watch a youtube or 2. The hardest part is getting the derailleurs working again, and that isn't really that bad.

The Stanley version is very well rated.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-610-10-Inch-MaxGrip-Adjustable/dp/B00009OYGZ/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1509832400&sr=1-2&keywords=Locking+Adjustable+Wrench&dpID=41s-XgSjppL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

get an adjustable wrench. I used one for the longest time before I got a skate tool. grips really well if you tighten it.