Reddit mentions of 120PCS 6 Color Ultra Bright 12v Pre Wired LED Diodes Light -White Red Blue Green Yellow Warm White
Sentiment score: 3
Reddit mentions: 5
We found 5 Reddit mentions of 120PCS 6 Color Ultra Bright 12v Pre Wired LED Diodes Light -White Red Blue Green Yellow Warm White. Here are the top ones.
or
Color Included: White/Red/Blue/Green/Yellow/Warm White,12 Vdc 5mm Warm WhiteWired LED's-Easy Connection with 12V DC Drive it,-7 inch long wiresViewing Angle: 20 degree,Pre-wired with built in ResistorUltra Bright 5mm LEDS,Great for electronic and electrical experimentsPackage:6 ColorsX 20pcs 5mm leds emitting diode
Specs:
| Color | G:/Multi-colors |
| Size | 5 mm |
| Weight | 0.1322773572 Pounds |
So, presumably, you're going to want different sections to have lights which operate independently from each other. Lights in this "room" lights in another "room" lights somewhere else yet. And also, presumably, you don't want it to be "all on" or "all off," but different sections that turn on when players are there, leaving the other sections off.
All sections will require power in order to operate, but it won't be necessary to run power cables willy nilly all over the board for this. Instead, you can run two lines - one positive, and one negative - back to your power source. It's similar to a breadboard in that you have power lines running the full length so you can tap power wherever you need it. I personally would run something like 14AWG wire to a series of screw down terminals, which will be where you connect any "room" circuits up.
I personally would change your design to use LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs. The incandescent bulbs will require a much higher voltage, which will require more expensive reed switches, and will also pose more hazard to work with and for the players. It definitely can be done safely at 120V, but it will be less work for better results (that will also last longer) if you switch. Using say, 12V DC for power, you can leave your power rails exposed if you want and it won't be a risk even if someone is touching them.
Here is a hastily drawn wiring schematic for you, which shows one light that would be activated by standing upon 6 different tiles. The black and red lines up top are your power rails. On one end, each of those is connected to a + (red) and - (black) on a power source. I would recommend something like this or even like this depending upon what your actual power requirements end up being. My overwhelming suspicion is your entire board, even if every fixture was lighted, would still be consuming less than 24W (if you go LED!). The cluster of 6 of the same item to the left are a bank of switches. Power is drawn off the + rail, and if any one switch is closed, power will continue to flow to the LED (purple), which is attached to the - rail to close the circuit. This can be scaled up or down almost infinitely - more LEDs on from one switch or switch bank - no problem - more or less switches - no problem. You can make as many of these set ups as you want, and attach them to the same rails - no problem!
To be honest, reading your post it sounds like still have some work to go to reach even a fundamental understanding of electrical circuitry. That's of course ok and not intended as a diss. This is partially why I recommend switching to a lower voltage of DC power (although it is what I would do personally as well), but also I would recommend you continue working on the fundamentals - it will make designing your project a lot easier. Here's a kinda whack video for kids but it's the most digestible one I was able to find in quickly searching. I also found this really cool lab software which will allow you to create simulations of the concepts you've learned about. If you need help or have specific questions, feel free to ask. Also, if you've got a design of your board laid out in a grid and you know where you want lights, switches, etc, I can help you turn that into a wiring diagram.
Get a multimeter. They're too cheap and useful to try that as an excuse.
Yes, just cut the cord coming out of the brick, and wire appropriately. Since you don't have a multimeter, you need to make sure the polarity is correct or you may damage the device. I have used an LED in a pinch when my multimeter was not on me. The brick will tell you if the tip is POS or NEG (most likely POS) but that doesn't always help with determining which wire goes to tip though. There are a few ways to determine this if they aren't color-coded. Just touch the ring to something and use each of the wires to see which has continuity, and that's your ground (NEG).
Man, you really need a multimeter.
EDIT: When I said I used an LED in a pinch, I maent one of these: https://www.amazon.com/120PCS-Colors-Bright-Diodes-White/dp/B01NAHYUBD They are literally pennies each. Burn one up? Oh well.
I’m using this build:
Induction Heater Build
And was hoping to insert an LED like this: LED with resistor
I like that the LED on the momentary switch is on while the unit is plugged in and would like for the additional LED to come on while the button is pressed. My uneducated guess was that it would be added to the circuit of the Induction heater but I don’t know what I’m doing. Thanks in advance for any help dynavap-ers!
a couple things.
I have ground coming from the prong on the side. Then on the bottom prong I have (+ in) in from PSU and (+ out) to IH board. Per the diagram, if my switch didnt have an integrated LED, I wouldn't be running ground from the switch at all, correct?
Thanks for advice on the LED. Would something like this work without a resistor? LED