Reddit mentions of Bob Smith 103 Insta-Cure 2oz Super Thin

Bob Smith Industries Insta-cure Super Thin

Sure, most of the big box home stores like Lowes or Home Depot sell them I believe they just call them table leg blanks or something similar. They are usually with the hard woods in the slots underneath the dimensional lumber. I use a lot of the 1.5x1.5x36 inch oak blanks for my practice projects and tool handles. But you can cut and glue up bowl blanks with them. Super glue finish is a good finish for pens but there is a learning curve. My only tips for it are use thin ca glue like this . Use blue shop towels to apply it (put a little on the towel and swipe while lathe is running slow) and you can get accelerator but it’s not needed. I use 2-3 coats then finish with friction finish its the best method I’ve come across. I don’t mind handing out tips if you need any more just ask. Have fun

You can buy thinned out super glue. Luthiers and turners use it.

Edit:added link

If you are worried about it, you can buy medical grade cyanoacrylate (for veterinarians) on Amazon, but I just use regular ol' super glue and an accelerator (although accelerator's not really necessary unless you're using thicker CA like a gel).

This is the glue I have always used for building rc planes:

http://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Insta-Cure-Super-Thin/dp/B001NI4JWI/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

Its called bob smith brand. I believe that the lightmode kit actually uses this exact same glue but they put a label over it. There are 2 types I use, thin and gap filing (which is thicker). I am not sure which I am going to use for the helmet yet, I think gap filling would probably be needed but it looks like they might be using thin in the kit.

Also there is a spray on accelerator I use which instantly cures the CA glue. It gets pretty hot though when you spray it on so my only concern with using the accelerator is that it could damage the helmet finish from the heat depending on the finish.

High end professional superglue. Known as cyanoacrylate glue chemically. It comes in super thin (almost water-like) consistency, up to a thicker gel. There are different "working times" available, from 30 seconds to 5 minutes. That's how long it takes to bond and mostly cure.

You can get applicators to attach to the bottle to pinpoint where you want it. A bottle of the good stuff (high viscosity, 60 second working time) should run $10 or so, but this would be enough to attach a canoe to your garage, if used correctly. This is the type I would use. Water thin for maximum penetration. The applicator tips are a few of bucks for a multi-pack. You will find a million uses for the stuff once you get it in this form.

The biggest things, if you were to try to do it this way:

• You get one shot
  
• Wear gloves!!!
  
• This can give off some minor irritating fumes. Use outside, or just work near a fan.
  
• Use as little as possible on the side (just enough to reconnect the wood fibers)
  
• Use more on the very edges, as that is an area more likely to get knocked around again.
  
• Go slow. Don't work on more than 1" at a time.
  
• Masking tape can hold things in place and over corners while you work on another spot.
  
  
  Note: This following step may get some luthiers up in arms. I would NOT RECOMMEND THIS FOR AN INSTRUMENT OF HIGH VALUE. This is a bit of a shortcut. But in this case, for the split kerfs and the rest that area inside the guitar, I suggest polyurethane glue. One of the bigger brand names is Gorilla Glue. Use tiny amounts, trying to pinpoint it as well as possible. One of the properties of this glue is that it does expand a bit while curing, which is great for filling small gaps. But if too much will push the other repair apart, so don't go crazy. Apply drops from a toothpick if you can.
  
  And short of me doing it for you, that would be my best advice.
  
  By the way, have you plugged it in and checked the electronics yet? Just curious.
  

This one?

I honestly don't like duco cement. I don't like putting extremely hazardous materials anywhere near my mouth. I prefer [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Insta-Cure-Super-Thin/dp/B001NI4JWI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468043557&sr=8-3&keywords=Bob+smith+glue). It dries in seconds, and forms a really good bond with not just the thread, but the wood as well, making it a fantastic sealant. If you are going to use nail polish, I'd suggest melting a bit of beeswax on the inside of the tube to protect against leaking, as that has been a major problem for me every time I just use nail polish.