Reddit mentions of Dap 00688 All-Purpose Adhesive Sealant, 100% Silicone, 2.8-Ounce Tube

You can try two things.

1) Kintsugi

This is a fancy repair that uses gold in the seams of the broken pieces.

This was the best site I found with practical instructions, even though in the end she wasn't successful. I feel a big takeaway from this is, if it's a piece you really love, practice on some junk first. https://alidoesit.wordpress.com/2014/02/05/kintsugi-hacked/

If you want to keep the cup as a decorative object, you can use an epoxy like J.B. Weld. This will be easiest to work with, and allow you to fill in missing bit.

If you want to try to use the cup (assuming there's no leaks), you need to use 100% food-safe silicone. It's not going to work as well to try to fill in the gap. You could trace the broken edge with gold and leave a gap; or you could put another broken shard of ceramic there (from your practice pieces, right?).

Silicone is food safe once dried. Other epoxies (ie: J.B. Weld) or glues (ie: superglue) tend to fall into a nebulous "non toxic" category, fine for handles or saucers, etc, anything not in contact with food/drink. Unlike glue or epoxy, silicone won't stick to itself once cured, so you'll have to do any broken sections that intersect all in one go.

For the gold, you can use food safe gold leaf or powder; or food safe mica powder. Either way make sure it's labeled edible.
Here's what I picked up, even though I haven't used it yet:

Silicone: https://www.amazon.com/00688-Household-Waterproof-Adhesive-2-8-Ounce/dp/B000KE4PBQ/

Edible Gold Leaf: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Authentic-Chocolates-Decoration-Working/dp/B00JGSWW5S/

2) Repair and paint

If you want to keep it as a decorative piece, you could also repair it with J.B. Weld (including the missing bit), and paint the seams to match the rest of the glaze.

Cwyn's blog has a couple posts about this:

http://deathbytea.blogspot.fi/2014/11/chip-and-how-i-fixed-him-but-good.html

http://deathbytea.blogspot.fi/2016/02/ruyao-ru-kiln-repairs.html?m=1

Either way you'll want to use a bowl of rice to hold your cup as you glue it back together. It gives you a "third hand" to keep the parts steady while you work. You should put together the parts one at a time, let the silicone or epoxy cure, then do the next part. Here's a good instruction on that:

https://www.teachat.com/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=12667&start=30#p173229

Good luck...

SILICONE SEALANT! its an ents best friend. waterproof so u can use it to repair bongs, nontoxic, and it tolerates heat well. so next time youre near a home deopt, pick up some DAP silicone sealant.


http://www.amazon.com/00688-Household-Waterproof-Adhesive-2-8-Ounce/dp/B000KE4PBQ/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_2_1

This!
Happy mending!

Non toxic fish tank silicone should do the trick.

Something similar happened to one of my pieces. I used a 100% silicone sealant. It's waterproof and is safe at temperatures up to 400 F. Just make sure your piece is completely dry before applying it, and make sure you let it cure for at least 24 hours (it gives off fumes while drying, but does not once it's completely cured).

1. I got the container at a place near Nashville called Southeastern Salvage. I couldn't find anything online, but here’s what the barcode sticker says:
   HF1562LAW
   LG antique white planter
   745896421086
   
2. Paver base from HD to level the container.
   
3. The fountain is the Beckett Container Garden Fountain Kit. It's available at Home Depot and Amazon. I added some aquarium filter media which really helps with cloudy water.
   
4. Typical pond liner from HD. This was the smallest size at my store and still way more than I needed.
   
5. Aquarium safe silicone.
   
6. River pebbles from Home Depot for substrate - I know most pond-owners don't recommend this, but my container is small enough to vacuum the gravel when it gets gross. This choice was may too natural/orangey and makes the fish harder to see.
   
7. I happened to have a broken concrete block (like this) which made a a nice base to keep the pump off the bottom and leaning another piece on it gives the fish a hiding spot.
   
8. Floating plants: water lettuce and water hyacinth. Aquatic plants: hornwort, anacharis and golden creeping jenny I pulled out of my flowerbed and tossed in.
   
   The build was pretty simple, when you break it down. It took a while just with life stuff getting the way and I didn't do everything exactly to this order - adding floating plants before I was done sealing the edges, didn't do the final liner trim until very last etc., but this is the gist:
   
   
9. I chose the location and made a pile of paver base wider than the bottom of the container.
   
10. Set the container on the paver base and set a large bubble level across its top. Pushing down, I worked the container back/forth/side/side until it was level all the way around and felt pretty stable.
    
11. Spread out the liner in the container (letting excess hang over sides) and filled with water making sure there were no bubbles or anything. I should have done a better job working out/consolidating the wrinkles/folds at this point. It was pretty hard when it was full, but it turned ok (not great). Once the container was full, I trimmed most of the excess to make it easier to work with, leaving about 12" all around.
    
12. I went ahead and put in some gravel, the concrete block pieces, and fountain at this point, though I should have waited to make it easier to work out wrinkles in the liner. I used the fountain to remove water until the water level was about 6" below the rim to keep the liner pressed against the sides, but allow me to access the edge. Then, I tucked the liner under the rim of the container and trimmed some more excess. Next, I used aquarium safe silicone to adhere the liner under the lip of the container rim so the edge of liner is concealed by the lip of the container. I used clamps in a few places to hold it in place while the silicone set. I had to be careful to keep the outside dry where the liner contacted the silicone to get a good seal. I did another pass later to remove the final bit of excess and add silicone where needed.
    
13. Filled it back up adding pond water conditioner, added plants and fish. I used this new tank bio starter stuff too. I lost 1 goldfish on day 2 so it was probably on its way out anyways but the rest seem healthy after about 2 months.

I used DAP aquarium silicone adhesive. I believe /u/eighchops recommends this one. This was my first time using this particular product. I decided to get a fresh tube for this project. I've used DAP auto/marine silicone in other projects with good success. I don't know if there's any real difference between the aquarium and auto/marine products.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KE4PBQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I broke a mug recently, this stuff works like a charm.

Ah ha! I'm going to try this one: DAP Adhesive Sealant. Per this sheet no risk of toxicity on ingestion. What do you think?

aquarium sealant! unless the female piece that broke off shattered, you can fix that baby in no time. put the two pieces together and glob this stuff all over the outside, http://www.amazon.com/00688-Household-Waterproof-Adhesive-2-8-Ounce/dp/B000KE4PBQ let it cure outside overnight or for another day if needed, you can tell by the smell. smells like vinegar (acetic acid is evolved while curing so do all the work outside or in a very well ventilated area). fixed one of mine like this almost 6 months ago and still works. *edit for spelling

But really, there shouldn't be a reason for this. The sealant can actually be found at home depot for like $3-4 (cheaper than amazon...what?)

Sealing is super easy and even if its messy, it will get the job done.

If its a crack causing the leak...depending on where it is, it might just be too unsightly.

So you're trying to make something like this?

Pick up a cheap container at your local dollar store, cut out a piece large enough to serve as a wall in your other container, slather the edges with a silicone adhesive, which is food- and microwave-safe, according to the manufacturer.

Yeah I could see the electric tape possibly leaking. I used some food grade silicone: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KE4PBQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687462&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005XP5HO6&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0FQSV8385R1081PXXK6B

But obviously that's a way more permanent solution and you'll need to figure out powering your fan first.

So how are you running the fan power cord now? Just shutting it in the door?

Find a food-safe silicone adhesive, like this one if you don't really care about the metallic highlights. If you want to do kintsugi, you will need something harder, like a resin, so that you can sand it.

DAP makes a type of marine sealant that's food grade. It's advertised for aquariums but a lot of people use it to repair drinking mugs and such.

Make sure you get aquarium grade. This is what I use.