Reddit mentions of New Wayzon Mini White Composite HDMI to AV 3RCA CVBS Video Converter Adapter 480P White

Hello there Lightfoot,

Twitch is Free to use - just make an account

Yes you can use you built in Cam - but I would recommend a having one not fixed to a computer

What you will need:
Broadcasting Software: I Would use OBS its free and its easy to set up
https://obsproject.com/ <---- Download here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgSZJUtLpBY <------ Tutorial on how to set up

Capture Card: I would Recommend the Elgato HD60 (easy to use for 1st timers, But feel free to research your own)
http://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Capture-PlayStation-gameplay-1080p/dp/B00MIQ40JQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1449080430&sr=1-1&keywords=elgato+hd60

**HDMI to RCA Converter: This will Converter your NES to the Capture Card so you can broadcast an older system
http://www.amazon.com/New-Wayzon-Composite-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00HXB73KE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1449080180&sr=1-1&keywords=hdmi+to+rca

Of Course you will need HDMI cables and all that but that is pretty much it.

If you have any question YouTube is your best source for answers

I hope this helps

It's absolutely possible to hook a computer up to it.

If your computer has HDMI output, this will do the trick. Don't believe the "hurr durr didn't work" reviews, they either weren't setting up their HDMI out correct or they forgot to toggle the NTSC/PAL switch (which will give you a rolling and/or black and white image). If you have DVI, VGA, etc., there are options for that as well. I used a mini Displayport to VGA, then VGA to composite adapters on my 2009 Macbook Pro and get perfect composite video even though I had to convert twice. I often found myself forgetting if I was playing the real hardware or an emulator until I looked down and remembered I was using a USB controller (I own much of the real hardware and played it as well). Then I moved and switched to an HDTV and definitely appreciated the HQ2X filter to clean up the blocky graphics you get on an HD screen.

The games you play on your Wii are still emulated and honestly the homebrew emulators are probably more accurate to the real console or may even be licensed to Nintendo for the Wii VC in the first place. The emulator community takes accuracy very seriously and retro systems are getting emulated to the point that they accurately replicate incorrect functions as a real system would (i.e. a glitch will work the same). Some systems like N64 still aren't perfect, but anything pre-1995 is damn near perfect at this point.

Does this CRT TV have component inputs or composite?

Composite is the yellow jack with red and white for audio.
Component is the Red/Blue/Green Jacks with red/white for audio.

If you are lucky enough to have component to work with at least, you will need an HDMI to component converter that does down conversion. I went through this recently with my dad who has a quite nice HDTV rear projection set that pre-dates HDMI, and can only do 480p and 1080i. After about 3 tries I found this guy:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N9UEVNK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

It will output all the way down to 480I and everything in between. Most of these just output whatever is present on the HDMI port, and since the chromecast detects the adapter is 1080p capable with no way to manually set it, you get an unusable signal on older TV sets.

If you don't have component at all, and are stuck with composite, you will need something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/New-Wayzon-Composite-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00HXB73KE/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1448978563&sr=1-6&keywords=hdmi+to+composite+converter

I do not know if this will work with a chromecast, but it should.

> http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Ahdmi%20to%20av%20adapter

Would you know if this one will work? $10 ones dont usually convert, and are usually only a cable with different connectors.

http://www.amazon.com/New-Wayzon-Composite-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00HXB73KE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451946058&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+to+av+adapter

Do you have a red, yellow and white composite video input? I've had success with one of these - not as good quality picture as VGA, but serviceable.

I use an Archer Video Processor. Radio Shack sold a few models in the 70s-80s from what I gather. They go for pretty damn cheap on ebay. You can probably get something similar at a thrift store, as long as you can mess with color etc. (like a saturation knob on a VCR).

The big problem to tackle is that these old units use RCA cables - the red/yellow/white ones. Most computers and especially laptops don't have an RCA-output port. If you have anything, it's gonna be HDMI. So you need an HDMI-to-RCA converter. I got this. Its quality sorta sucks but if you're making glitch art you won't mind. Also, don't fucking get a HDMI to RCA cable; these don't work even in theory (digital to analog without conversion makes no sense).

Now that feeds into your VCR/processor's input. You also output in RCA. I use a Dazzle DVC100 for this. Takes RCA in and converts to USB, which I then use with their shitty proprietary DVD recorder software. You can probably find something cheaper like an Easycap or something like that, these devices are pretty common unlike that HDMI to RCA box from before.

So once I have everything plugged in, I output my video from computer A (looping in VLC so I can mess around with the board), inputting to my processor, outputting with glitchiness, into my Dazzle then into my computer B, which is recording it.

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If you get an Archer processor (I recommend it, thing's a dream), there's again a few models but they should stay largely the same. Unscrew the screws on the metal housing and the back panel. Pull the panel out (may need to pry) and the front, attached to the circuit board, should come out easily. I leave my board exposed and it's been fine for a good while now.

So now you're looking at your green-ass circuit board. Watch out for the transformer, don't touch that (mine looks like shiny blue masking tape coils, coils being what tips you off). Compare the top of the circuit board with the underside - mess mostly with the spider feet on the underside, you really won't get an effect with most of the resistors, capacitors etc.

To make my short-circuits I use little screwdriver bits - long, thin, and flatheaded to easier make contact. Just touch the solder on random points and note the effect. Sometimes you'll get a little spark and the unit may reset - don't fuck with those two together or slap a potentiometer on it; I play it safe, don't wanna kill my board.

Once you find two spots you like note their positions (take a pic or just write down text on the PCB that they're near), and then you'll wanna solder them. Be very careful!!!! I assume you know how to solder so I don't mean don't burn your fingers. The PCB contacts are very close together, watch for accidental bridges (and be prepared to fix em). Grab yourself some potentiometers and switches from Radio Shack - remember that one wire must be in the middle of a three-pronged switch/knob. Unplug all your stuff, hold power to runoff lingering electrons. Solder two pieces of wire to your points, solder the wire to the switch, plug it back in. Pray your wire stays soldered. Observe effects with dials turned and switches switched. Enjoy glitchiness!!!

Also a note for my unit. This may have just been mine but it seemed some contact along the circuit wasn't receiving power - my video output showed a very faint picture - recognizable, but visibly wrong even with no effect applied. The picture was also shifted to the right half a screen's worth. I found two random points that, when shorted, completely fixed the problem. Soldered a switch and things have been fine - some of my effects actually vary wildly when the switch is on or off! If you run into a similar problem let me know, I'll send you a picture of my board.

Good luck and pardon my post it's really late as of writing

e: also yeah /r/glitch_art is a low-effort place, it's pretty upsetting