Reddit mentions of Noico Black 80 Mil 36 Sq Ft Car Sound Deadening, butyl automotive deadener restoration mat and Noise dampening insulation

For explanations on different kinds of dampening, this is a pretty solid site: Sound Deadener Showdown

For vibration damping, look on Amazon (or your favorite retailer) for generic butyl sound deadener material. I bought this one in particular, but you can dig around to see if there's anything better out there.

For decoupling, I've had success with Frost King Duct Insulation + aluminum tape to tape off the edges.

For general sound vibration dampening -- think loose brackets, panel edges, and even the rattle of your door when it closes -- this butyl rubber sealant tape is absolutely boss for the price, but you'll have to get it shipped to a local Home Depot instead of your house (at least that's how it is for me). There are similar products out there so you can look around, but I go frequently to HD, so it's not a huge inconvenience for me.

I'm also dabbling with using 1" sheets of rock wool in doors as a sound deadener, but I haven't done any concrete investigation if this can fit inside a door without interfering with stuff. I bought a sample sheet and it's still sitting in the garage, waiting for a free weekend ;-)

Good luck with your project!

MLV: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008JHE1P6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CCF: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URV8MFC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CLD: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BKKZ1AM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've used various CLD's in the past (you can see some Dynamat Extreme on my front door). I figured the Noico would work well and it seems to have done well so far.

I did see a review on Amazon about the CCF glue delaminating when applied directly to the MLV, so I elected to use it on the door panel directly to keep the glue away from the MLV.

Use car sound insulation sheets inside your case

Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BKKZ1AM/ref=sspa_mw_detail_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My GF has a Honda Fit, so same general problems with next to no sound deadening. Sound deadening of pretty much any variety will greatly decrease road noise, and lower the sound floor (what is considered quiet before your music is playing)

Amazon sells some great stuff for the price, Noico. It is not the absolute best, but for the price per/sq.ft. it is one of your best options. Just look up some videos on installing it, as well as how to take apart your interior panels on the Fiesta.

https://www.amazon.com/XCEL-Acoustic-Insulation-Studio-Pads/dp/B07JMW96Q2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=1%2F2+inch+studio+foam&qid=1571111397&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-1

https://www.amazon.com/Soundsulate-Mass-Loaded-Vinyl-SHIPS/dp/B0741F6DXH/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=loaded+mass&qid=1571111901&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-4

https://www.amazon.com/Noico-Deadening-automotive-restoration-insulation/dp/B01BKKZ1AM/ref=sr_1_13_sspa?crid=24S0V27LU570M&keywords=dynamat+extreme&qid=1571111972&s=automotive&sprefix=dynamat+e%2Cmi%2C161&sr=1-13-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNTdDSVYyNFFKV1BQJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDA1NzEzSjdQU0gzTlNRU1ZEJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2ODkyNTVaV0xJR0lKTjRFWVMmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

4 speakers and the headunit is tough for $300. Any aftermarket speaker will want to be amplified to get the most out of it. A headunit will only put out about 14 watts per channel so cranking will be limited. Also replacing factory speakers will most likely reduce midbass as oem speakers are designed to peak the midbass. So some work will be required on the doors to get sound quality significantly better you can do Fastrings and some SOund Deadener at a minimum.

If it were me I would replace Headunit, front speakers and buy a 2 channel amp. Still very tight budget.

Cheapest I would go headunit, speakers, amp. then you will need an amp kit, dash, kit, and other miscellaneous items.

$150 Morel Maximo front speakers

$90 Morel rear coax speakers

$150 Sony head unit

$130 Kenwood underseat sub


The front and rear speakers are rock solid, the head unit does what you want... it has more than twice the power of any other head unit on the market. You can skip the external amp if that is what you want but you are giving up a bit at high volume levels. The underseat sub is a huge compromise. I know you aren't looking to rattle your bones with bass, but I think you will be underwhelmed regardless.

I would urge you to consider something like this separate amp and this compact subwoofer. It will hit all the notes at reasonable sound levels without the complaining you'll get from a true underseat sub. You will need an amp kit with the separate sub and amp.



Low cost sound deadening material

Also, if you get the foam baffles be sure to cut out the back side to allow air flow otherwise you will choke your speakers/ sound bad. They are for weather protection, not to boost midbass as they are too small for that. You need to use your entire door as an enclosure for best results. That means sealing off the sheet metal holes in your doors with plywood, plastic, or as a last resort, the noico sheets. Make sure you get the right adapters from Crutchfield when ordering your head unit.... ordering by phone can be helpful if you are unsure of something like door chimes or steering wheel controls etc...