Reddit mentions of Staedtler Mars Latex-Free Eraser, White, 1 Pack (STD52650)

In my preference, the best I’ve found is Uni Kuru Toga Roulette and Staedtler Erasers

The Kuru Toga pencil automatically rotates the led so you always have a sharp tip, and Staedtler erasers are able to erase damn near anything.

I’ve tried more expensive mechanical pencils like GraphGear or Rotring and the Kuru Toga beats them out no problem. You have no idea what you are missing if you haven’t tried it, I’ve convinced 5 other peers to use the Kuru Toga by letting them use it for a couple days.

>Yeah I'm treating it as a project, so I will just mess around with it.

Sounds like a plan!

I've done the same (Found a dead copy of a game I'd already re-bought :P )

There's already some great advice here.

Here's some extra stuff I'd suggest:


(Feel free to skip this, Sometimes I prefer tinkering on my own too!)

• Remove the battery Their's like a 0% chance it still works. I'd leave it off until you can get the game running.
  
  
• Work on the corrosion first, I've heard baking soda works, but I use 99.7 isopropyl,
  
  
• The cartridge contacts look like they could use some work too.
  
  I've heard using an artist's eraser, will work great, as they don't leave a film, or tiny crumbles behind.
  
  Give it a try after those steps, if you can get the 'nintendo' logo to show property, then the contacts are good, and it can at least try to read the cart.
  
  If after this, it still can't read the cart at all, there are more drastic options, I've heard people suggest sand paper, but I'd really say brass polish may be better.
  
  -If after all that you still can't get it to show the logo, It's likley the game is dead. as it can't read the rom at all. As the logo is used for verification.
  
  
• If you can get the game to read, ('nintendo' logo shows up) but...
  
  Issue: | Try:
  ---|---
  Instant White Screen Crash| Reflow the mm1134 chip (maybe the rom too)
  Graphical Glitches|Reflow the rom chip
  Corrupted Undeleteable save (even with the battery removed)| Reflow the sram chip
  Missing sprites entirely (Black boxes)| Reflow sram (Some say it could also be an MBC issue, may depend on the game.)
  
  [GB/GBC chips diagram] (https://www.insidegadgets.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_1992.jpg)
  
  
  
• If you're feeling really crazy, and the above process didn't work, if you have a fine tipped soldering iron, you could try removing the chips to clean under them. (I've never needed to do that, but I don't know how bad the corrosion is.)
  
  
  ---
  
  ^Please ^Note: ^I ^am ^by ^no ^means ^a ^professional, ^and ^I ^don't ^mean ^that ^in ^the ^fake-humble ^way. ^I've ^only ^been ^working ^on ^gameboy ^games ^and ^systems ^for ^a ^little ^over ^a ^year ^now, ^these ^are ^just ^suggestions, ^it's ^not ^meant ^to ^be ^a ^guide. ^Just ^some ^things ^that ^have ^worked ^for ^me ^in ^the ^past. ^and ^it's ^not ^a ^perfect ^setup, ^For ^example, ^a ^messed ^up ^'nintendo' ^logo ^could ^also ^be ^a ^problem ^with ^the ^rom ^chip, ^I've ^just ^seen ^it ^more ^often ^as ^dirty ^contacts.
  ^If ^one ^of ^the ^mods, ^or ^modders ^here ^post ^later, ^and ^make ^a ^suggestion, ^it ^may ^be ^better ^to ^try ^what ^they ^suggest ^instead.

Or This

I'm a composer and have decided to stop using my computer program to compose and arrange. I want to handwrite anything that printed parts aren't required for.

The clarity of my scores have improved a lot from a few simple things:

-Using a ruler

-Using 4b pencil and sharpening it frequently

-Slower, more deliberate hand movements (I'm still impatient though!)

Some challenges I'm having are:

-Hand is too tight and gets tired after just 45 minutes or so

-Erasing accurately without smudging (using this )

-Consistent sizes with note heads, accidentals, and stem lengths

I have no idea if this is an appropriate post, but I love r/penmanship. I thought some of you guys might also be musicians and could offer some help. I don't consider my handwriting or notation aesthetically pleasing, but I hope that will come with time and practice. Thank you!

They have a grit in them that acts as an abrasive, which makes them great if you're using really heavy drawing paper with a thick tooth & good graphite that you're not jamming into the paper, then you use it very lightly. But I agree, they still smudge and are overly aggressive.

I prefer these, they don't have any abrasives and smudge way less

http://www.amazon.com/Staedtler-Latex-Free-Eraser-White-STD52650/dp/B0006IK4BG

But a lot of people like these as well

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kneaded_eraser

These are my preferred mechanical pencils with mars plastic erasers

http://www.amazon.com/Pentel-GraphGear-Automatic-Drafting-PG525A/dp/B0006HXQXA/ref=sr_1_4?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1413523441&sr=1-4&keywords=mechanical+pencil

and use good paper

http://www.amazon.com/Canson-400014970-Arches-Sketch-10X14/dp/B008NA891G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413523545&sr=8-3&keywords=arches+drawing+paper

OCD activating:

1. Initial lowercase r is the same y-height as the uppercase R. Subsequent r's are half y-height.
   
2. Ripped out notebook paper.
   
3. Eraser scuffs. Get a proper eraser and use harder lead for lighter lines (4H and up).
   
4. T-squares/graph paper will help you ^keep ^a ^^straight ^^line .