Reddit mentions of SVBONY Metal 1.25 inches T Adapter and T2 T Ring Adapter for Canon EOS Cameras Photography Dedicated CA1 Sleeve Extended Cylinder for Telescope

Taken with a Canon Rebel Ti1 mounted using a T adapter on a Meade Infinity 90 telescope. I used the 9mm eyepiece and took a series of photos which I stitched together using Microsoft's Image Composite Editor.

This is what the setup looked like: http://imgur.com/a/gqCT5

Hello :-)

Great advice so far!

As the others said, a dobsonian will be the best, as you can afford a very large aperture and have a stable mount. Not for imaging, but for planets it still works with some patience.


$300 can get you a 6" dobsonian, or a "2nd"/refurbished XT8. It doesn't get better than this. 8" already shows a lot regarding deep-sky! ...under a dark sky at least.

• "2nd"/clearance (sometimes 6" $224, 8" $304)
  
  
• https://www.telescope.com/Fall-Red-Tag-Sale/Clearance-Telescopes/pc/468/81.uts?&refinementValueIds=4566
  
  
• What to expect in different aperture sizes:
  
  
• https://www.reddit.com/r/Astronomy/comments/3j2wjo/what_is_a_good_telescope_in_this_budget/cum0622/?st=k0epgl6l&sh=496220f9 (especially the bold link)
  
  
• Size/Portability
  
  
• https://www.reddit.com/r/telescopes/comments/e0fyli/question_about_appropriate_telescope_size/?st=k3bgvvk3&sh=21cffd01
  
   
  
  > upgradable
  
  The main mirror (or lens) is the heart of a telescope, and can't be upgraded. Thus a 8" would show you the most in the long run, even if you can't afford as many accessories as with a 5" or 6".
  
  With other eyepieces you can later add a wider field of view or more magnification. Even at $20 you can get some decent ones (e.g. the 6mm 66° for planets).
  
  
• http://blog.pixelgiraffe.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/dobson8eyepieces1200.png
  
  
• https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32805977303.html
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Eyepiece-Length-66-Deg-Multi-Coated-Telescope/dp/B01L1HBIME
  
  For DSLR, you need a barlow both to reach focus and get the planets "large enough". A $15-$20 with T-thread can work (a cheap one introduces a lot of chromatic aberration though), and a $10 adapter for your DSLR to the T mount.
  
  
  
• 1 or 2 or 3 (random links as example for the Canon EF mount, double check if it's the right thing, you don't need a tube or eyepiece projection adapter if you have a barlow with T thread)
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Coated-M42x0-75mm-Astronomy-Telescope-Eyepieces/dp/B07WV3PF8M/ (about the cheapest you can get = you get what you pay for, there are even sets).
  
  A decent barlow set can go in the $100s.
  
   
  
  ...And "turn left at Orion" - The missing manual :-) Do you have binoculars?
  
  
  Clear skies!

That’s good to know about the vignetting. I might just continue using the original diagonal and lense.

I don’t think this came with a fork mount. We might be talking 2 different c90 models. Mine is the old c90 1000mm f11. It has a mount on the bottom that I attached a dovetail to.

I’m more concerned with getting an imaging setup working. I bought this and this. I guess I’ll see how it goes when I hook it up. Hopefully that’s what I need.

To be clear, afocal involves mounting the camera (with a camera lens attached) in such a way that allows you to take pictures through an eyepiece inserted into the telescope's focuser. This method is also known as "eyepiece projection." Link to adapter, which only fits eyepieces of a certain maximum size.

It sounds like what you have in mind instead is prime focus photography. For this you replace your camera's lens with an adapter (available here for $14) which can then be inserted into the telescope's focuser (no eyepiece involved).

I don't have any personal experience with your scope, but that camera might also be a bit heavy for your scope's focuser. Someone else here might have a better idea about that, though.

So I took the dslr out tonight and after messing around with the ISO and shutter speed, it worked great.

The SL2 I believe can shoot in crop mode in RAW with digital zoom. Needless to say the more you zoom the harder it is to track, but with just a 2x shorty barlow Jupiter was about the size that you saw in my first Jupiter post.

The specific T ring that I have is this one: SVBONY Metal 1.25 inches T... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0114BB908?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It also has an attachment that you can drop an eyepiece into so I'll also try that without a barlow and see what happens.

Again I'm not experienced enough to tell you if an astro camera is better quality or easier to use but I was pretty happy with the way this came out on the first go around, and I still feel like I have a great all purpose camera.