No problem dude.

So first off I just want to go against your thought on only using an iPhone until you can get a professional camera. I really do think that you need the DSLR step in between the iPhone and the professional camera for many factors. Even though the app that you are using is very impressive, it still cannot match a DSLR. You even said it yourself, the camera sensor is way too small to use in anything but exceptional light. Secondly being able to tell the story not just the angle you have the camera, but in the lens choice is something that is awesome to do. With a single change in a lens you can make someone who is in an ally look like they are claustrophobic and trapped, to someone being alone in a large amount of space. So using lenses are a huge help in telling the story you want and being able to know that before using a professional camera is huge. I also want to point out one of the big and main differences why someone would want a professional cinematic camera. One of the main reasons is to have the capability to shoot in RAW which allows for awesome post production. I've used RAW many times before and it is awesome to adjust almost every aspect of the shot. Here is the thing though, you almost really don't need that unless you are really going to push the camera in post, or if you are doing a movie. Even without RAW a DSLR or mirrorless camera can achieve professional looking video without breaking the bank. Here a great video on professionals comparing 8bit vs 10bit which is essentially the difference between cinema cameras and mirrorless ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AekKwgvS5K0 ). This is a very interesting video and really shows how good mirrorless cameras are, and the small gap between the two. I know it's fun to say that you filmed a whole film on an iPhone. I've also used an iPhone and android phones to film really good looking video, but I knew what it can and can't do because I had used dslr and professional cameras. Without the knowledge I had there would've been wild problems that I couldn't fix in post, and even with all of my knowledge I had to change how I did things to get everything right. It was a great experience, but there is a time and place for everything.

Okay not that is out of the way I'll tackle the audio questions you had. So when I said that you can eliminate background noise while recording it wasn't necessarily in a software, rather in what you are doing while filming. The number one thing that you need to do is get the mic as close to the actor as possible. By doing this it eliminates most factors so you can have more flexibility in post. Secondly it is a good idea to have someone dedicated to being the audio engineer. Having to do both is exhausting and results in lukewarm audio and video. Third you need to get an app or some external device that allows for adjusting the gain. There should be multiple apps that can do this, however I would recommend a pre-amp. Here is a link to a great pre-amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LBS52YI/ref=psdc_11974581_t3_B007534LFK . It is a great deal for what it is, but it is still pretty pricey if you don't have much money or much income at all. This is a great tool because it will allow for any audio recorder, phone, or camera to accept xlr, quater inch, and normal aux connections and even providing two. You can also adjust the volume it is putting out so you can more easily adjust on the fly. Getting the right levels is essential for getting good audio in post. The next thing you can do is have some portable sound proofing. There are audio blankets that do a great job, but they are $60 for one. Not to say it isn't worth it, but it's a bit much if it's between getting that and a new mic. So instead I recommend getting a moving blanket. It isn't perfect, but you can get a huge amount of them for cheap and they do almost as good as the audio blanket. The way can use this is to cover up whatever is making the noise if you can. If you can't you can make a wall out of the blankets with light stands, or pretty much whatever you can attach them to. This will not only reduce echos from the actor, but it will also greatly reduce the amount of ambient noise that the mic is picking up. Seriously pick up some moving blankets, they are a great tool not just for audio, but you can use them to block out light, and actually move stuff. They are a really awesome tool. So by doing all of this it should reduce the amount of ambient noise that the mic picks up. Also for good shotgun mics, I am not a great resource for this but I do know a few good mics. Here are two that I know are good and that others say good things about. https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Advanced-Broadcast-Microphone-accessories/dp/B00N39J0LU/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503160247&sr=1-4&keywords=shotgun+mic https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503160247&sr=1-5&keywords=shotgun+mic . If you want to know more there are a large amount of articles on good mics for cheap.

Next I just want to quickly mention that you should invest in some lights. No matter what it is a good idea to have them. Here is a link to a great budget light, https://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503160499&sr=8-1&keywords=neewer+light . It isn't the most exiting thing to buy, but it is well worth your money.

For the acting questions, it is hard to put to words what I experience. It's more of an instinct, and is different in every situation . However I know I would not be happy with that answer, so here is a link to an article that I think has some really good points. http://www.masteringfilm.com/tips-for-directing-actors/ . This isn't the guide lines for what you can do, but this is just a starting point for what you can do to direct actors better. There are many articles out there so pick and choose what you want. My only piece of advice that I could find words for is this, make your actors not act. You want them to be the character. So a good way to get this to happen is to have them write a back story for the character, it won't be incorporated in the film, but it will help them shape their decisions on how they act. It is really a great way to have the actor connect with the character. Also just tell the actor what they are doing. Don't be a dick about it, but let them know so they can change it. Don't be vague by saying "do that but happier" because no one really gets that. Instead say something like "Jim while you are saying that line could you have a bit of a smile and have a bit more hop in your step" something like that. That might've not been the best example, but you hopefully get the idea.

Okay I hope that answered all of your questions. Let me know if you have more.

Okay this is going to be a long post, so here goes.

​

If you really want to get into sound design, youre going to need a few essentials. A DAW (Digital Audio Workstation), an audio interface, a handheld recorder, and a microphone.




DAWs

As far as a DAW goes, there's a few alternatives you can go with. I personally use Avid Pro Tools for near everything I do, but also mess around with Reaper. I've found that most studios will use one of these two. Most DAWs will have a pretty steep learning curve, so be ready for that.

Pro Tools First is the free version of Pro Tools. It has a lot of limitations, but for starting out it should be fine. If you want less limitations it costs big money, but I'm sure you can find a crack or two as long as you don't use it commercially.

Reaper is starting to grow on me lately. You can customize it to your needs, and the full version is only $60. You can also just deal with a popup everytime you open the program for ten seconds and use it for free. I mainly prefer Pro Tools over this because the video engine in Pro Tools is much better. But for batch editing multiple sound files, Reaper is muuuuuch better.

​

Audio Interface

This basically takes over as an intermediary between high quality audio and your computer. You can plug a microphone right into it to record sound straight to your computer. You can do this with a USB microphone as well, but the quality is a million times better with one of these.
I would recommend either the Behringer UMC22 or the more advanced Focusrite Scarlett Solo. Both will do the trick, I just prefer the mic pres on the Focusrite a bit more.


Handheld Recorder
Handheld recorders allow you to record anything you want to without having to deal with any cables. They should be compact but durable.

The Tascam DR-40 is a great intro recorder. It was the first recorder I got 5 years ago, and it still holds up. I've dropped this thing so many times and it still powers through.
Another favorite is the Zoom H4N. This was a favorite among most of my classmates as it was the one my school supplied, but I didn't feel like going through the checkout process all the time so I saved up and got the Tascam. It has a newer version, the Zoom H6, which is pretty slick, but comes at a higher price point. It also comes with some interchangeable microphone capsules so you can get different types of recordings. I'll cover more of this later.
I'll leave off with the recorder I have now, the Sony PCM-M10. This thing is a godsend. It's discontinued due to a newer version coming out, but you can find this guy on eBay for around $300-400. It's smaller than a phone, and the sound quality is amazing. If you have the money to shell out for this guy, definitely go for it. Every sound designer inn the industry I know swears by it.


Microphone

So the first thing you need to know is that there's a load of different microphone types. Its a lot to cover, so I'm just going to link you to this article that will cover the basics of what you need to know. Basically I would recommend different microphones for different things, all depending on what you're trying to capture.
A good all-around microphone is the Shure SM57/Shure SM58. They're essentially both the same microphone. But these things will LAST. Like,people have run over them with trucks and they sound fine. Definitely a good starting point

For vocal recordings, I would recommend the Rode NT1A. This mic is a great starting point for capturing voice, and is durable to boot.

For capturing foley/field recording, I would go with the Rode NTG2. Its a shotgun mic with great quality for the price, and never let me down in all the years Ive been using it. I won its successor, the NTG3, in the Riot Creative Contest a few years back, but still use the NTG2 from time to time when I need to.


Some Extra Stuff


Theres a lot of cool, free plugins out there. I've used both Blue Cat's and Melda's plugins, and they all get the job done with a bit of tweaking.

As far as building up a sound library goes, I would recommend recording literally everything you can around you and playing with those sounds with plugins as a good starting point for building up a library. There's a few resources out there that give out free SFX every once in a while, GDC has had a bundle go up for 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019. You can also check out the BBC Sound Effects Library. Be careful about getting libraries and bundles though, as they add up quick. I have to go through my sound library soon, and I probably have around 500,00+ files but only really need a few thousand.

For all your sounds, you're going to want a file manager. A great and free one is Mutant. You just add the directory where you downloaded your sounds to, let it load them in, and voila. You can search easily for what you need.


Hopefully, all this was somewhat helpful to you, or to anyone else reading this who's interested in sound design!

Hi, I'm the co-editor for podcast production and I think I may be able to help with your questions.

Mics: Depending on your current recording space you have 2 options, Condenser or Dynamic Microphones. Condenser mics are very good at picking up detailed sound but they are most of the time to sensitive to be used without some sort of sound proofing or acoustic treatment to the room as they are really good at picking up even the quietest of sounds. but if you have a treated room or a acoustic shield then that might be an option to look into. Dynamic mics however are really good at capturing loud sounds and because of that, they are mostly used for singing and instruments. however they are also often used for narration because you don't have to go all out with the sound proofing as they are less sensitive. now since my talents are in post production, I don't need an expensive microphone to get a good sounding recording, so I just use a $20 Dynamic microphone from amazon, they're great in fact I bought 4 of them for a podcast I was doing, I can give samples if you would like. As for price, Condenser are on average going to cost more because of everything that goes into it. Dynamic mics are older tech, so they aren't as expensive. my friend who does the vocal recordings has the Rode NT1a, a rather expensive condenser microphone $229, and I record using the Behringer Xm8500 Dynamic mic $20 on amazon. so it's really up to your budget and editing know how.

Rode NT1a

Xm8500

You will also need a audio interface if you're going to be using XLR mics, which I highly recommend you do. Here's the one I use, although you may not need that many channels

​

Software: I use Adobe Audition around $20 a month subscription. However I have in the past used Audacity and if you know how to use it, you can get some really good results. If you are looking to get into industry standard software I would recommend Pro Tools also I think $20 a month.

​

Yes, people who don't use a studio generally record to their preferred Audio editor and mix/edit then upload to a hosting website for their podcast, the production I work for uses Blogtalk which I think has a free option. However there are many options for hosting websites (E.g. Acast, Podbean, Libsyn, Ect.) I recommend reading this website for hosting options.

​

People typically find voice actors through Casting Calls which they themselves set up or by going through a casting call website, and yes voice actors are typically paid although some may offer volunteer if they're just getting out there or for charity. For the sake of professionalism always assume you are paying for their services, that way if they decline payment then that's their choice as an actor.

​

If your podcast gains enough listeners then yes, you can definaty make money through podcasting, but you should never go only for making money. because one, it takes a while ti gain listeners and two it's just no fun if your only in it for the money.

​

I remember being exactly where you are now asking these questions, so If you need any help don't hesitate to ask. I hope this helps :)

​

​

TL,DR

Mics: I use a $20 Dynamic mic which gives me great recordings, although there are more expensive and higher quality options out there.

Software: I use Adobe Audition to edit everything but there are a myriad of other audio editing options out there including the free software Audacity.

Yes it can be as simple as Record/Edit/Post depending on what your doing and the type of podcast your going for.

You find actors through casting calls, and typically you always pay actors for their services. Always expect to pay.

Yes you can make money through podcasting depending on your listenership and Ads and things like that.

> Price Range: UK, up to £50 - the only batteries I have and have experience with are disposables like AA and AAA but I am willing to learn about new types. I have charging cables like USB-C
>
> Battery Type & Quantity: Recommend me whatever you like battery wise

I recommend you get these ones (make sure your battery specifications match the packaging in this photo):

• New battery day! 24 AA Eneloop NiMH batteries in 16 and 8 cell packs. : r/AAMasterRace
  
  Get this package first to get the highest quality charger on the market:
  
  
• AmazonSmile: Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries: PANASONIC: Electronics
  
• HKJ Review of Charger Panasonic BQ-CC17 - lygte-info.dk
  
  > A nice -dv/dt termination with only a small temperature increase and no trickle charge, this looks very good. [...] The charger is very good at filling the batteries.
  
  You need that charger to get the full life out of Eneloops. If you take care of them, Eneloops will last at least a decade, maybe longer. They achieve maximum longevity when you charge any time before they reach 60% depth of discharge (40% remaining capacity). So, if you charge them when they're half discharged or sooner, that's easy to remember.
  
  > Purpose: Main purpose - used to find correct door numbers when I am delivering in evenings
  >
  > Other uses would be as an emergency lighting source in my flat in case of a powercut and to take along with me when I'm on a motorbike again for emergency usage. If I could use it randomly in countryside settings where there is not much light pollution that would be great as well
  >
  > Size: Something easily held in one hand, not to head heavy and not too heavy, needs to fit in a backpack easily
  >
  > Type: Handheld
  >
  > Main Use: Whilst in residential areas shining light to find the right door numbers - IMPORTANT must not disturb residents with too much excess light
  
  You said you want handheld, but if you're using it from a motorbike while delivering, then it really sounds like what you need is a hands-free headlamp, but one that can also be used handheld. I did a search for you:
  
  
• http://flashlights.parametrek.com/index.html?type=headlamp&battery=1xAA+2xAA+3xAA+4xAA+5xAA+6%2BAA&runtime=_+_+dec&features=regulation&price=_+62
  
  I'm not sure how to use the search features to minimize the amount of spill light, but maybe u/parametrek can explain how to do that. I see beam angle, intensity, and throw that might be useful in filtering for that kind of feature, but I'm not sure if it's actually possible to filter that way.
  
  In any case, the Zebralight headlamps can be used handheld without the headlamp holder, and they include a pocket clip for that purpose too. I recommend the Zebralight H53c because it uses AA batteries:
  
  
• AmazonSmile: Zebralight H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI: Sports & Outdoors
  
• H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI - Zebralight
  
  The Armytek Tiara lights are similar, and imitate many of the features of Zebralights, so although I haven't used one myself, they get recommended often and they might be equally versatile as a handheld light - I just don't know if they come with a pocket clip. The quality of Armytek is good, but is praised less often than Zebralight. They might have some features that are different from Zebralight, in addition to a lower price, so they're worth considering.
  
  I almost always use my Zebralights without the headlamp strap, although I do use the silicone holder because it makes it easy to swivel and point the light. I put some zip ties on it for a lanyard so I can attach it to the exterior of my EDC bag, without risk of losing it. It's tiny, so it's convenient to always have it ready. I don't need to fish around in my bag or pocket to find it. I just tap the on-button, and go. I don't need to fumble with it or even bother to put it away when I'm done using it. I think in your job, that would be ideal for you too, because it will save you a ton of time, which adds up every time you use it.
  
  They do have some spill light, but you have fine control over the brightness, so you can dial it down to only the amount of light you need, and you can make the light on time very brief, even though the button isn't quite a momentary on switch, which would be ideal. The way you select brightness by clicking the button might be even more useful than a momentary on switch anyway, so you can minimize the amount of light you use to the point no one will notice you, even if they're nearby while you're shining your light.
  
  EDIT: Formatting.

No worries, busy time for sure! I'm pretty new to Telescopes myself, my family got me my XT8 for my First Father's day this year. I've done a ton of research since then, and am always excited to share knowledge. Not a lot of people I know share my hobbies, so you can private message me anytime and I'll have fun giving advice or discussing it.

If you don't buy the XT8 off Craigslist, I'd recommend from their [Clearance page](https://www.telescope.com/2nd-Orion-SkyQuest-XT8-Classic-Dobsonian-Telescope/p/102342.uts). It's mostly returns that they've thoroughly inspected and come with a 1 year warranty. That's how I got mine and it was in New Condition, usually around 25% off.

Planets like Jupiter and Saturn are easy, they are typically the brightest objects in the sky so you really only need a phone app to tell you what days they will be in the night sky. I really like the Stellarium app, I paid for the full version but I think the free is still really good. Deep space objects (called DSOs) are things like Nebula, Galaxies and Star Clusters. Finding these can be like finding a needle in a haystack with how big our night sky is. For this I would highly recommend the book [Turn Left at Orion]( https://www.amazon.com/Turn-Left-Orion-Hundreds-Telescope/dp/1108457568/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=turn+left+at+orion&qid=1575054480&sr=8-1 ). Apps can help find these things, but looking at a phone can make you lose your night vision and you don't pick up as much detail in these DSOs. It is recommended to only use red light when using a telescope which doesn't hurt your night vision, eventually you'll want a red flashlight, [I use this one]( https://www.amazon.com/Celestron-93588-Astro-Vision-Flashlight/dp/B0000665V5/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=celestron+red+light&qid=1575054716&sr=8-2 ) which works best if you put opaque tape over the clear window in front to diffuse the light.

As far as finding objects goes you'll use a couple of things. Every telescope has a finder scope of some sort. The XT8 has a red dot finder scope, which is a little window you look through on the outside of the scope and it superimposes a red dot on the object you're looking for. So if you put the red dot on the moon say, and then look through your actual eyepiece you should be looking at the moon. It's similar to a rifle scope. For DSOs you will do what is called Star Hopping. You find a bright star that is near by what you are looking for. Then you find dimmer stars that you can still see with the naked eye. Usually I find two stars that are on either side of the object then estimate where the object should be, put my red dot here and then do a little scanning with the telescope until I find what I'm looking for. Use a low magnification lens (like the 25mm) to search. There's more scientific ways to do it, but it works for me every time. Takes some practice. It's also confusing in that if you move the scope one way, it might make the image in the scope move the opposite direction. It takes practice and patience, but with time it becomes 2nd nature.

The included 10mm and 25mm are pretty good for planets and the moon, but will fall short for DSOs. If you're willing to spend another ~$100 dollars right out the gate on accessories I'd buy a [zoom lens]( https://www.amazon.com/Celestron-93230-24mm-1-25-Eyepiece/dp/B0007UQNV8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=8-24+zoom&qid=1575055505&sr=8-1) that allows you to change the magnification and an [eyepiece that provides higher magnification]( https://www.amazon.com/SVBONY-Telescope-Eyepiece-Accessories-Astronomy/dp/B07JWDFMZ4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=svbony%2B6&qid=1575055611&sr=8-1&th=1) (get the 6 mm option) than the zoom or the provided lenses. Later, if you want to spend another ~$130 on more options at eyepiece I'd by the 9mm option from the 2nd link there and a [wide angle lens]( https://www.amazon.com/Agena-Super-Wide-Angle-Eyepiece/dp/B00YO60I9E/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=agena+32&qid=1575055724&sr=8-2) that makes it easier to find objects by showing more of the night sky. When in comes to eyepieces, make sure you know the math of magnification. You take the Focal Length of the scope, 1200mm for the XT8, and divide it by the number in mm on an eyepiece. I.e. a 12 mm eyepiece would be 1200/12 = 100x magnification. Don't bother with Barlows, a Zoom takes care of that by giving you an infinite spectrum between 50 - 150x and the 6 mm gives your 200x. That is plenty for basically all viewing conditions.

The [Moon Brightness Filter]( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076MP3T66/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) is nice if the Moon hurts your eyes to look at, but it might be worth just looking at the moon first before spending the $20. You can't actually hurt your eyes looking, but it can definitely shock your eye. Also, higher magnification always means dimmer so zooming in can naturally act as a filter. I wouldn't bother with other filters. Most are crap and don't contribute much.

In summary: To really feel prepared when going out for the first time you should have a book that you studied ahead of time for what you want to look for (The book is broken down by Season and what is viewable during that time) and a red light to see the book. The provided 25mm will be okay to search with, and the 10mm will let you see more of it, but you will want something better soon like the zoom or the 6mm Svbony lens. Make sure your Telescope is [collimated]( https://lovethenightsky.com/telescope-collimation-for-complete-beginners/) and your finder scope is lined up with your scope (the Telescope manual walks through this, do it during the day). Bring chairs and warm clothing. Lastly bring your patience. Hope this was helpful with how long it was, and I hope you and your kiddo have a ball!

Here's my little bits of advice:


Games with Gold: If you have an XBL gold membership, please 'buy' (xbox.com) the free games on both systems, even if you don't currently have one of them. If you don't have an XB1 yet, you're essentially just building a bigger potential library if you get the console in the future. If you're on XB1, you're creating a larger backwards compatible library.


Accessories: Add storage via nearly any USB 3.0 external hd (there's millions of suggestions for specific models via a search of this subreddit). I suggest Eneloops over the play-n-charge kit. XBL gold membership is roughly $35/year frequently, never pay full price and keep in mind it's "stack-able". Install SmartGlass on your mobile devices. Install the Xbox app on your Windows 10 devices.


Games/Values: If you're interested in any EA game, give EA Access a look ($30/year). Bing Rewards is a nice way to pad your digital wallet. Value-based subreddits I'd suggest: /r/GameDeals, /r/GreatXboxDeals and /r/ConsoleDeals. Weekly sales threads tend to pop up on /r/XboxOne before they're published, and if you want to see all current discounts check out storeparser.


Game Recommendations:
SMITE is a free-to-play moba that's become a go-to game for me a few times each week. It's easy to learn, but there's depth to keep you learning new strategies/skills even months after you've started. I really can't believe how much I like this game. I think everyone should at least try it.
Rise of the Tomb Raider is gorgeous, and it improves upon nearly everything the original reboot (already a good game) attempted. I love the game.
Sunset Overdrive is fun from start-to-finish, and it's one of the most unique games I've played. The art style is infectious, and I loved the game more each time I played it. However, I didn't particularly appreciate much of the multiplayer.
LEGO Marvel Super Heroes is a step above the other LEGO games, and it's an absolute hit for co-op sessions. Similarly, Diablo 3 excels at co-op, even if it's something that doesn't seem like a typical title for your group.
There's many others I'd recommend, but I'm sticking to the top-most I'd recommend to any new Xbox One owners. There's a ton of opinions you can find on this subreddit if you're interested in any game. Also, if you're not sure about something: look for Twitch streams or YouTube videos before you take the plunge.


Leftovers:
Always check out Friend Request Friday to find people you can play with. I love podcasts, here are my recommended podcasts. I use Feedrabbit to get e-mailed updates from Major Nelson.


Finally, I recommend helping out when you can by visiting the Mentor Monday threads. It's a very easy way to help, and (in my opinion) it's one of the best threads each week in this subreddit.

Glad I could help :-)

> deep space photos

Oh, that's a whole different topic :-)

Imaging is complex, expensive and more sources for headaches when getting started.

See https://www.reddit.com/r/astrophotography/wiki/what_telescope - Great resource to chose the right gear.

While the 127 SLT works fine for some planetary imaging and some snapshots of other bright targets, it's not a good set for DSO imaging.

For serious deep-sky imaging, you need a mount that doesn't only track, but also counters field-rotation, e.g. an equatorial mount.

The SLT mount is a simple AltAz (Altitude Azimuth, Updownleftright) mount and not suited for long exposures due to field rotation and the (relatively) low precision.

The Maksutov has a "slow" aperture ratio, long focal length, and isn't exactly the first choice for deep-sky imaging.


While cheaper equatorial mounted and motorized sets are available, stability is key. E.g. a Celestron 130EQ-MD makes no sense. A NEQ3/CG4 is better suited, but does not really make sense long-term. E.g. Orion Sirius, (H)EQ5. The Orion Sirius wih GoTo costs well over $1000. Without a telescope. The manual CG4/NEQ3 costs $250-$300.

Combining terrestrial, stargazing AND imaging will result in a major headache. :-) In this case a decent apochromatic refractor might be the only thing that can cover all bases to some extend, but for visual, you really need aperture.

 

If you are unsure what route to take, get something smaller/cheaper first. Observe, get to know the do's and dont's of observing and imaging. Find out what you really need beyond what sounds good on paperont the screen :-)

 

> deep space photos

As you already seem to have a DSLR or similar, you can actually do some nice wide-field without even using a telescope.

• https://www.reddit.com/r/telescopes/comments/2ttydz/300_budget_looking_for_a_telescope/co2ivce/
  
  
• Longer focal lengths require guiding etc.
  
  
• Of course it's possible with the 127SLT to take some snapshots of brighter deep-sky objects, but not nearly as great as something like a 130pds/150pds reflector on a EQ5/EQ6 type of mount.
  
  
• For imaging questions aside the basics I am probably not the ideal person to ask, also see /r/astrophotography for advice.
  
   
  
  > eyepieces
  
  For a 127/1500 Maksutov, there are several choices.
  
  A zoom-eyepiece is great for day-time use, but as with many zoom-binoculars/spotting-scopes, dedicated eyepieces tend to give you better contrast. Also zoom eyepieces have a narrow apparent field of view at the lower magnification, only 40° or so, making them poor overview eyepieces.
  
  Short version:
  
  
  Kit eyepieces 10mm & 25mm for now, consider a 7-8mm^1 2 for planets and a 15mm^123 to fill the gap. A 32mm for a bit move overview.
  
  Zoom eyepieces are usually available in 8-24 or 7-21mm 1 2, but only the Baader Zoom offered a bit more field of view on the lower magnification. For day-time use a zoom is nice sometimes, but you can usually get 2-3 better fixed-focal-length eyepieces for the same price that perform better in the long run.
  
  Long version:
  
  
  
• 32mm Plössl,
  
  
• $20-$30: The largest field of view with a 1.25" focuser.
  
  
• Some other 5" Maksutovs offer a 2" focuser/diagonal allowing some more field of view. Even simpler 2" eyepieces cost $70 and up though.
  
  
• A 40mm Plössl is available too, but has a narrow apparent field of view, effectively not showing more than a 32mm Plössl.
  
  
  
• A 7mm will give you a bit over 200x. So perfect for observing moon, planets, double stars, ships - under decent conditions.
  
  
• 7mm Plössl already have very short eye-relief. Plössl are the type of eyepieces included in the eyepiece kits. The longer ones >10mm are OK. Are you wearing glasses?
  
  
• The HR Planetary clones, e.g. $49 7mm 58° afov are decent. Better are the BST Explorer and dual-ed eyepieces - But for a bit more you can also get a larger apparent field of view.
  
  
• If you want to spend a bit more, you can get a 7mm Luminos ultra-wide-angle (82° apparent field of view)
  
  
• A 6mm can work, but things will already get pretty dim, and 250x magnification only works if atmospheric seeing is great (which it usually isn't).
  
  
• One or two in-between.
  
  
• Either just use the kit eyepieces,
  
  
• Get a 15mm Plössl or wide-angle eyepiece, 123
  
  
• or get some of "gold-line"^Link for example. These no-name eyepieces are sold by several names and the brand name Orion expanse. The whole set probably makes little sense. 15mm to fill the gap of the kit eyepieces. 9 and 20mm if you want to replace the cheap kit eyepieces. 6mm is a bit too much already.
  
  
• At Aliexpress you can get a long eye-relief "gold-line" 6mm eyepiece for $18, at Amazon $40 or so.
  
   
  
  Here is an overview for eyepiece stats at 127/1500. The magnification, true field of view, and the exit pupil
  
  (True field of view: Extend your arm, extend your index finger. It covers a width of 1° in the sky: Twice the full moon- even if it seems larger when over the horizon. At higher magnification, you just see a fragment of that in the eyepiece)
  
  (Exit pupil = amount of light exiting the eyepiece, under 0.5-0.6mm it gets too dim. 2-3mm is ideal for many deep-sky objects; 1-2mm for some of the smaller nebulae)
  
  25mm: 60x Magnification / 0.86° field of view / 2.1mm exit-pupil
  
  10mm: 150x / 0.33° fov / 0.8mm EP
  
  32mm: 46x / 1.1° / 2.7mm
  
  15mm: 100x / 0.5°-0.81° depending on the eyepiece / 1.2mm
  
  7mm: 214x / 0.26°-0.33° / 0.59mm
  
  More magnification is always tempting, but it will make things dimmer. Crude simulation. So usually you can see more details with less magnification, even if the planet isn't view-filling.
  
  Atmospheric seeing^YoutubeExample often limits magnification to <=200x. The image wobbles, the higher you magnify, the blurrier and more apparent it becomes. For day-time over the horizon, this might be way more apparent, restricting you to 100-150x. You have probably seen the effect of heat-haze/heat-shimmer over a hot road or field, and that moving air is exactly what makes day-time observing at high magnification problematic.

> To be frank, I don't fully understand all the differences yet. Any type of battery should be fine as long as it can be recharged or replaced fairly easily (i.e. via Amazon or regular hardware stores).

There's pretty much 1xAA, 2xAA, 1xCR123, 2xCR123, and 18650 (not all 18650 flashlights take CR123s!). CR123 is, IMO, a nicer form factor, for handling, but rechargeable energy density is crap, TBH. AA gives you the most versatility. But, avoid alkalines whenever possible, for flashlights. For AA size, depending on flashlight, either go with 14500, or Japan-made Eneloops (Duracell and Amazonbasics both have rebranded versions of these at good prices).

AA NIMH have a nominal voltage range of 1.0-1.25V. 14500 fit in the same space, with 3.6-4.2V, should a single AA flashlight allow greater voltage. Often, that will give you greater max output. OTOH, you'll have to be really careful if lending the light to anyone else. Today, though, most get pretty good output on AA NIMH. Japanese Eneloops are the best rechargeables out there, and can be found under Panasonic's name, Amazonbasics', and Duracell (if buying at a B&M store, look for made in Japan on the back). I've had those, and knock-offs (like Rayovac's), and over time, with real world use, the difference is not subtle. I have not used Chinese Eneloops, myself, but largely because reports by users, and tests on them, indicated similar behavior to the knock-offs I'd had. The Japanese ones just keep on going.

18650 is a little bigger than 2xCR123, and has a nominal voltage range of 3.6-4.2V. 2xCR123 have a nominal range of around 2.5-6V. 18650 has the most R&D going into it, being the most popular size (it's what is in laptops and power tools, among other things), so you get the most energy storage for the size, weight, and money. But, it does not have a comparable primary cell to swap it with, so make sure the flashlight in question can take 2xCR123 as backup (if not stated that way, make sure it can take at least 6V input).

You can get good chargers and batteries for $15-20 total, for about any handheld sizes (make sure to get a charger that has independent bays, if going AA NIMH - example), so your $75 budget is pretty realistic, and honestly, gives you tons of options.

Also, if you keep up with your rechargeable cells, costs of Lithium primary batteries (including AAA and AA) will not be much, in the long run. A leaky alkaline AA can do a lot of damage, so I would advise against using them if there is any other option; and the actual costs over time are fairly small, when you're usually just partially discharging the rechargeable cell(s) in between top offs, 90% of the time.

Panasonic-made CR123s are the quality ones to buy, if going that route for primaries. They can be had online for around $1.50/ea., so comparable with, or slightly cheaper than, AA Lithiums. You can also buy them at not-exorbitant prices at hardware stores and outdoors stores, and probably gun shops. Surefire, Streamlight, and Duracell, are all made at the same plant, and are all good quality. Some cheaper ones, like the popular Tenergy, are known for aging poorly, and getting unbalanced quickly. If mainly using rechargeable cells for day to day use, I don't think saving money that way provides good value.

> A good mix of throw and flood seems best. I don't want something too far toward either end of the spectrum.

While I'm not a big fan of their UIs (though the Pro does seem nicer than non-Pro, IMO), I think Armytek's TIR lights have the best balanced beams for EDCs, in the $40-60 range, with a wide spot, and plenty of flood.

As far as specs go, the only difference is in price and in variable aperture. Variable aperture is something I work with on a daily basis but would be a great thing to not have to deal with. IMO, just an annoyance. Light will likely not come into play because you already can just switch to your 55 f/1.8 for low-light. Other than that, I think it comes down to focal length. Do you want to have the 18-30 range or will you not miss it because you already usually shoot at 55?

I would not consider it "easy" to get good slider shots but also not hard. It largely depends on your slider and experience with the slider. Gentle hand + smooth slider = great shots. I think that it would be better to invest in good lenses, a good tripod, good mics, and good lights before getting a slider as you can make an equally good video without a slider.

Yes, here are some cheaper options. However, I should note that the mic I recommended has a "+20dB" setting that can allow you to turn down the pre-amps in your camera or recorder and get better, cleaner audio. Most other mics do not have the feature. The mic I recommended has a bunch of younger brothers. The rode videomic that I have. Great mic, no boost setting, a bit bigger than I would like. The rode videomic go, no battery required mic, pretty cheap. Some people say it is no better than just for scratch audio and barely better than on-board mics, I can't speak to the claims. I'm not trying to scare you away from it, just letting you know what is out there. The rode videomic micro, a super small mic, more intended for small cameras or smartphones, I don't know how good the audio quality is. Outside of the Rode brand family, there is also the Shure LensHopper that is often said to rival the videomic pro. It comes in two different versions, one with a built-in audio recorder, and one without.

Let me know what else I can help with!

So here is my wishlist for Camera things I sent my husband:

Think Tank Bag

I actually just got this for our anniversary on Halloween and it's freaking amazing. I love Think Tank everything because a) they're so incredibly thoughtful in their design and b) they're made incredibly well. This bag is replacing the current bag I carry JUST lenses and accessories in on the wedding day. On that note their rollerbag is what I use to carry everything and it's also amazing.

Helios Lens

This is basically a trash russian lens that provides really interesting bokeh and intense, awesome sun flare.

Holdfast

I have one of these already, there's a lot of reviews about camera straps, but as a woman it's been the most comfortable strap I've had. I have the American Bison one, it's very soft and incredibly well made. I get compliments on it at weddings all the time, it looks super professional!

Apple Watch

So nice for checking time, texting, and keeping track of timelines on the day of. I love it.

Mouse

If she needs any computer upgrades that would be a great option too. I need a new mouse because mine is a piece of shit, but monitors, monitor calibration, wacom tablet, etc could be nice too.

All the Microfiber cloths, batteries and SD cards

I buy all these things like candy every season. You can really never have enough of any of them.

As far as her home studio, the first thing I would look at is her chair. Art is nice and everything, but loving her chair and workspace makes such a huge difference. It's hard sitting ALL DAY, my back and neck hurt after a full day. I re-did most of my office and bought a bunch of plants and a new desk and it's made my days much better. Next purchase is a chair.

Hope this helps! I'm sure she'll love whatever you get her :).

/u/Okaaran - with a $100 to $120 budget, you won't be able to find a better video camera than your iPhone 8 - but you can improve your phone's image quality. You can start by downloading FiLMiC Pro for [$9.99 from iTunes] (https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/filmic-pro/id436577167?mt=8&at=1000l8mT).

This app will allow you to control aspect ratio, white balance, exposure, resolution and frame rates - turning your phone into a pretty good approximation of a camcorder.

FiLMiC Pro was used for this recent feature film shot entirely on iPhones:

• [Unsane Trailer by Stephen Soderburgh] (https://youtu.be/u7KZrt_cHH0) (full movie [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Unsane-Claire-Foy/dp/B07BNSQ75X//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20))
  
  And this one, shot with FiLMiC Pro and [inexpensive anamorphic "widescreen" lenses] (http://www.moondoglabs.com/store/#!/Anamorphic-Lenses-&-Accessories/c/8525657/offset=0&sort=normal) plus a [Steadicam Smoothee] (https://www.amazon.com/Steadicam-Smoothee-Universal-Smartphone-Adapter/dp/B017EVRPW8//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) counterbalanced stabilizer:
  
  
• [Tangerine - Red Band Trailer] (https://youtu.be/ALSwWTb88ZU) (NSFW - full movie [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Tangerine-Alla-Tumanian/dp/B017I241HK//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20))
  
  This one used FiLMiC Pro, iPhones and a jib:
  
  
• ["ALL UP TO YOU!" - iPhone 5 Movie] (https://vimeo.com/50438974)
  
  Instead of a counterbalanced stabilizer like the Smoothee, you might want to invest in a [$99 Zhiyun Smooth Q powered 3 axis gimbal] (https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-Q-Handheld-Smartphone-Counterweight-Standard/dp/B06XK971X2//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).
  
  Powered gimbals are easier to use than counterbalanced stabilizers and can give you very smooth results.
  
  Here are a couple of 4K examples shot with the iPhone 8 and Zhiyun gimbals:
  
  
• [Good Morning Gratitude — Shot on iPhone 8 (4K Cinematic) by Atilla Taskiran] (https://youtu.be/PCQ115-BSvw) (2160p)
  
  
• [iPhone 8 Plus - 4K Cinematic Test Footage (Verona, Italy) by Nikola Krstic] (https://youtu.be/TQ8ndUJNSuM) (2160p)
  
  Without a stabilizer or gimbal, handheld cellphone video can be very hard to watch.
  
  You should also invest in a directional mic or a lavalier for better sound than you can get from the built-in mic. Ideally, you would want a dedicated mic on a boom, but I am assuming you don't have a boom operator.
  
  Directional Mic
  
  The least expensive option is the [$59 Rode VideoMic Me] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018KIJGU8//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20). It is the best directional mic you can buy for your phone.
  
  Here is the Rode promo video with example audio: https://youtu.be/1-x8MVngwaI
  
  Lavalier
  
  For interviews or dialogue between 2 actors, you can get a [Movo dual lavalier with headphone monitoring for $39.95] (http://www.amazon.com/Movo-Executive-Microphone-Monitoring-Smartphones/dp/B019HQHXN4//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20). You can either plug it into the phone you're using for video - or you can download an app to a second phone (e.g. [Rode REC] (https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/r%C3%B8de-rec/id528642521?mt=8&at=1000l8mT) for iOS), record a "scratch" audio track with your camera phone's internal microphone and sync the audio from the second phone to your camera's audio track in the edit, as seen here (example is for the Rode SmartLav, but it makes the point for the entire lav/phone category):
  
  http://youtu.be/P2RIFZOGMZo
  
  With the right software and support gear, your phone can give you great 4K video quality.
  
  Hope this is helpful, and good luck with your YouTube videos!

The telescope is definitely going to come with a collimating device of some sort. I've only ever used a laser collimator, so I'm not sure how hard other collimating devices are to use. It never takes me more than 5 minutes to collimate my dob though.

I would get a 2x barlow (this one is pretty nice and also cheap), and some gold-line eyepieces. They're recommneded often on here because they're not too expensive but still pretty good. I would maybe get maybe the 15 mm and 6 mm. Those combined with the scope eyepieces and the barlow should give you all the magnifications you could want.

Whether a solar filter is worth it is entirely up to you. However, just note that if you don't want to put in $100s of dollars, you're pretty much limited to something made with Solar Filter Film or a basic glass filter. The views you get from that are definitely nice, but it might not be what you're expecting. You'll see something like this with those filters.

If the scope doesn't come with a 0 magnification red-dot finder scope, you might want to get one. Telrads are considered one of the best one's on the market (and I love mine to death), but they can be a bit pricey. A cheaper red dot finder scope (like this one) should also serve you just fine.

Besides that, I would definitely recommend getting the book Turn Left at Orion. It's essentially the complete beginners guide to all things Amateur Astronomy. It's absolutely fantastic.

One small other thing I can think of is a red-light flashlight (like this). It's definitely not necessary, but it's nice to be able to look at things in the dark without losing your night vision too much.

Ok. All the recent Canon cameras can take a cheap interval timer, which allows you to do star trails, nightscapes and wide field pictures. It will also be necessary for deep sky images, but that that you'll also want some way to track the movement of the earth. Pentax's K-r and K-5 can take a GPS unit that does this, which is nifty. But you're limited in the focal length and time you can expose for. A more robust solution is a German equatorial mount, like for a telescope, but you wouldn't need a telescope. If you get a sturdy one, that can track for a long time. But it's heavy and requires some setup. The K-5 can also take the cheap inteval timer, but for the K-r, you'll need one of those, and this http://www.gentles.ltd.uk/gentled/trigger.htm, which someone on here just recently told me about. It uses the IR port of the K-r for shooting. It looks cool but I haven't heard about any first hand experience with it.

As far as lenses go, as I said elsewhere, the Canon 18-55 IS is decent. Their 10-22mm is also good for really really wide angles, but expensive. The 50 f/1.8 is cheap and great optically, but at 50mm, you can only image about 12 seconds without trails, unless you point towards the north star(or south celestial pole). Since the stars move less there, you can image longer. You can use many old prime lenses to save money like M42 screw mount, Pentax, Nikon, or Olympus with just a metal adapter. But you can't use old manual focus FD mount Canon lenses, they wont focus to infinity. If you get a Pentax, you can use all old k-mount lenses, and m42 mount lenses with a cheap adapter as well. Old prime lenses are usually much better than the old zoom lenses.

To save money you could also get a used Canon XS better yet an XSi. They are both decent for astro. You definitely want Live view to help in focusing, which they both have it.

Some good concrete advice here: http://www.backyardastronomy.com/Backyard_Astronomy/BAG_Blog/Entries/2009/12/10_I_Want_to_Shoot_Deep-Space_Objects!.html
here http://astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/TOC_AP.HTM . For more stuff. Also have a look at the cloudynights.com forums' astrohphotography section.

Let me know what further questions you have.

Well, If filmmaking and video is your goal with these cameras I wouldn't recommend either.

If you're just starting and serious about video production here's a pretty effective starter kit that's just a tad over your $400 budget.

[Camera: Canon Vixia HF R400] (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-VIXIA-R400-Advanced-Camcorder/dp/B00AWZFJ22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395594961&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+vixia+hf+r400)
This is a decent starter camera. It's got a decent range of focal lengths, optical stabilization, microphone input, progressive frame-rates and most of all designed with video in mind. You'll need a SD Card

I noticed the cameras you picked resembles DSLRs but keep in mind that these in particular are not and with fixed lenses which defeats the purpose of having DSLR for video. Trust me, learn how to be effective with a camcorder first! Then, when your skill requires more artistic control you can upgrade.

Audio:
[Microphone:] (http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595673&sr=8-1&keywords=shotgun+microphone)
Having clean audio is probably the most important part filmmaking! The key is to get the mic as close to your subject as possible and away from your camera. You'll need a cable. If you need to mount it to your camera use this [bracket.] (http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Photography-Bracket-Standard-Mounts/dp/B005Z4ROIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595189&sr=8-1&keywords=flash+bracket) This bracket will also help keep the camera stabilized when you go handheld.

Keep in mind this won't deliver perfect audio but it will be a MASSIVE improvement to the on board microphone and learning how to record with decent audio in mind is your first step into becoming a pro.

[Lighting:] (http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-300-Clamp-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B007RKKEHA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595354&sr=8-17&keywords=can+lights)
Lighting is EXTREMELY important. A couple of these can lights will not only help with your image quality but put in you in the right direction for learning how to properly light your scene. You could start with daylight equivalent CFL bulbs.

[Tripod:] (http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-60-Inch-Lightweight-Tripod-Bag/dp/B005KP473Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595413&sr=8-3&keywords=tripod)
You NEED a tripod. This one is cheap and cheerful. Looping the ends of a couple rubber brands around the pan handle and the other end around your finger will help deliver some smoother pans!

Total: $425/£258

Some things to keep in mind:

• These are far from pro tools but if all used in conjuncture you can deliver a much more effective production than just merely using a camera on a tripod.
  
  
• Build a crew of friends. Although you can "one man band" it I don't recommend it because one of coolest things about film is that it's almost always a group effort towards an artistic goal!
  
  
• Most importantly, the equipment are just tools. They don't tell the story; you do! Your film/video is only as powerful as the story you want to tell!
  
  Best of luck to you!
  
  edit: formatting
  

I wrote an article on intro DSLR kits on Amazon. I wouldn't bother unless you bundled them with your camera.

They're definitely crappy extra toys, but they may help you learn more about photography (by showing you how things make your image quality worse); but they also were kind of fun at the beginning and encouraged me to get out and shake the bugs off and dig into learning how to shoot good photos (and how extra toys don't really help). Everyone takes shitty photos at the start anyway, so you're not missing much; and it's not a ton of extra money over grabbing a body/kit lens/good SD card; but if you already have your camera kit, you can skip it for sure.

DO NOT USE THOSE TRIPODS!

Those are strong enough for point and shoot cameras at most. Especially with a telephoto lens, the tilt arm is likely to fail and it'll fall on sensitive optical mechanics. Those are in the $10 price range. Spend at the very least closer to $30 on a tripod, and a $100-ish tripod will be a safe, and useful tool to use with your precision imaging equipment.

tl;dr - Sure, it's a waste of a little money, but they can be kind of fun toys. Burn the tripod.

Stuff I'd suggest getting:

• 2-3 nice SD cards: Class 10, 32-64 GB each
  
  
• Another few cheaper (but still fast) SD cards: 4-8 GB
  
  
• Solid tripod. $30 or $100 is well worth the money
  
  
• Rocket blower. Avoid touching the lens, whenever possible and never touch the sensor. A lens cloth should be plenty. Avoid being tempted to use a wet cleaning kit on the lens or the sensor if possible
  
  
• I love my big, cheap camera bag. I have 3 lenses, and a speedlight and this is perfect for me. I wear it across my chest and carry it on my lower back where it's out of the way and easy to deal with 95% of the time.
  
  
• An Intervalometer that matches your camera
  
  
• Manual flash that can tilt & swivel
  
  
• Flash triggers are fun and work great with those cheap $10 tripods. Check Strobist.com for great tutorials and inspiration
  
  
• Flash gels can be fun creative tools too. Can you tell I'm getting into playing with off-camera speedlights?

For most podcasters, video is only a worthwhile choice when the content communicates better in video. Comedy and tutorials are often like this.

But since this is for an education project, you don't need to worry much about how much sense the decision makes. :)

Here are the most important things for video, in order of priority.

1. Audio quality—microphone(s) and recorder
   
2. Lighting
   
3. Camera quality
   
   Microphones for video are usually more expensive, but they don't have to be. Your two main choices are wearable mics and shotgun mics.
   
   Shotgun mics are expensive and cumbersome, but they keep the mics completely out of the shot.
   
   Wearable mics, like a lavalier, can be hidden. But they're sound best if you don't try to hide them. My advice is to only hide the mic when you want something to seem real, like something dramatized. Otherwise, a discreetly visible lav mic isn't distracting.
   
   On the low end, I recommend the JK MicJ 044 mic. They're small, only $29, and get surprisingly good sound for their price. It'll easily connect to any audio recorder (like the Zoom H1). Or, you can get a TRRS mic/headphone splitter and connect a lav to a smartphone and record with an app (for iOS, I like Røde Rec). For something simpler but a little more expensive, the Røde SmartLav+ sounds great and connects directly to a smartphone.
   
   For lighting, be near a window on a sunny day. Get diffused sunlight (not direct) on your face to brightly light you. Otherwise, consider a cheap three-point lighting kit.
   
   Finally, your camera could be a DSLR, smartphone, or even an HD webcam. The camera actually matters least for your overall quality. Great lighting can make even a cheap camera look good.

What you are looking for is a lavalier mic (also called a lapel mic). They come in several different varieties. Do you want one that is wireless or one that is wired? The wireless ones are nice if you are moving around a lot or doing commentary away from your desk. The wired ones are nice because they don't require a battery pack and you never lose signal (not really an issue anymore). Tehre are also some that are made to plug into your cell phone so that you can record onto your phone.

For the best quality of wired lavs I would go with an XLR setup. You will have to spring for a mixing board or an audio interface, but you will get better sound quality and the ability to adjust your sound on the hardware. I suggest the Audio Technica Pro70 or the Shure SM93. You will also need to add a board to that as well.

If you go wireless you'll probably be paying much more than $200 for a decent lav mic. Probably $300-600 just for the mic and receiver. You'll also need a mixing board or audio interface on top of that.

There are also some budget options, like the Rode SmartLav+ which is pretty good for the price and you can record off of your phone or the 3.5mm input on your computer. You won't get as good of audio or the adjustment as an XLR setup.

There are also products like the invisilav that allow you to wear the mic underneath your clothing to hide it. I would definitely do some research on how to wear a lavalier mic to get the best sound. They can be pretty tricky sometimes because they can rub against your shirt/jacket or the cord can rub and make sound. Best of luck!

Make it up to the Domain. I believe the Microsoft Store has a demo, free of course.

p.s. I have a Vive and it's amazing!

...But keep in mind it's a first generation product with a technical support and customer service group that's new to VR tech and all the nuances that come about with supporting said equipment.

1. You need a beefy computer (CPU/GPU) to maintain the recommended 90 frames per second, per eye. Get Steam if you don't have it already and download the free Steam VR Performance Test to get a basic idea of how well prepared your computer is for VR.
   
   The pixel density isn't there yet compared to your traditional iPhone Retina display or other high PPI phone displays (pixels per inch) - so you'll see individual pixels. FOV (Field of View) isn't wide enough to fill your entire peripheral view, think of it more like a pair of goggles (and the circular rectangle view you'd see as a result) into another world.
   
   A decent sized play area clear of obstacles for roomscale is definitely preferred to be able to support the majority of
   games out there. Minimum size for roomscale is 1.5m x 2m, maximum is 15' (5m) diagonal. You'll also want to securely mount your lighthouse beacons that enable the 2mm or less accuracy of your head mounted display (HMD) and controllers.
   
   Those that can wallmount, should, as it'll provide the most securely fashioned physical mounting (and thus non-wobbly) tracking. Otherwise tripods or some things like these http://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Support-System-144-Inches-3HAND5/dp/B000067S12 with two of these http://www.amazon.com/Grifiti-Threaded-Microphone-Diameter-Motorcycles/dp/B00E5M39AW/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0XZ7ESQEJ8AFBYREADCZ will work!
   
   However, despite me listing all of these caveats (for your benefit, informed decisions are something I always promote and recommend) - it's still amazing technology that gets you absolutely immersed in the video game (and creative, and 3D video and... and...) world that's at YOUR scale and size.
   
   If you do take up Codeninja's offer, have him get Waltz of the Wizard, too, and try it out. It's awesome and free!

Less than $500 for even a decent camera will be difficult. I'd suggest looking into a used Canon T3i or a new/used T2i. They may be slightly more expensive but they're the best thing you'll find around that price range (in my experience). Also because they both have interchangeable lenses you can upgrade/adapt them as you get more cash to invest.

I know less about mics although I think it may be difficult to find what your describing, especially at that price. Something like this may be what your after but I really can't say that the quality will be great and the cable will probably get in the way if you're moving around.

What I'd really suggest is to abandon the idea of on-body unless it's absolutely necessary for some reason. If you're up for doing that I'd suggest a shotgun mic (something like this would probably do just fine). The absolute best option in terms of quality and lasting value would be to buy an H4n. The disadvantage is that you'll end up having to sync your audio to the video but the advantages are that the audio quality is great, you can add better (XLR) mics in the future and you can move it around depending on where your audio source is.

I know that this isn't exactly what you're looking for but I hope it's some help anyway. If you have questions please feel free to ask :)

• For containers I just use 1 pint cheap plastic containers that soups come in or deli give you. I guess you can find a nice piece of Tupperware that is about that size, and a taller one for taller prints. You could probly just ask the Deli guys at a food store for a few empty 1 pint containers + lids.
  
  
  • 2 containers - one with pure IPA and one with clean water. Good lids that won't leak.
    
    
• 91% or 99% IPA for cleaning your build plate / resin vat / scraping tools / desk / etc. and for using in the print wash container. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABPUGH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• More gloves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CF49NJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My palm width is about 3.6 inches / 9.2 cm and I bought the XL which fit ok.
  
  
• More paint strainers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQELZ7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Better removal tools: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Also get some Xacto knives + extra blades + sand paper sheets in varying grit 300-400 count for smoothing off support marks. https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Safety/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527015690&sr=8-6&keywords=xacto+blade
  
  Try to find the flexible sand paper sheets that are meant to be hand-used. I found them in Loews 3m brand, this is the exact type of sheets i use: https://www.amazon.com/3M-COMPANY-28320SB-UF4-320G-Sandpaper/dp/B00PPD1CYA/ref=sr_1_7?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1527015867&sr=8-7&keywords=sandpaper+320+grit+3m
  
  
• Find a source for cheap paper towels. I use the real cheap paper towels that you find in bathrooms, the stuff that's really stiff and crappy. I don't use name brands such as Bounty or whatever because the higher quality kitchen paper towels leave behind bits of cloth dust, which is unwanted for cleaning the resin vat / build plate / LCD screen. You'll also go through shitloads of paper towels and the higher quality towels are a waste of money. https://imgur.com/7XeelfV
  
  
• Get a couple sunglasses cleaning cloths. Not the microfiber cloths with the consistency of a bathroom towel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L77OXE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B009L77OXE&pd_rd_wg=OcvWJ&pd_rd_r=3AAAFBB1202BXG3K8QN0&pd_rd_w=cwumx That's just an example - you can probly finder cheaper and better sized/quality towels such as: https://www.amazon.com/MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-PACK/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0050R67U0&pd_rd_r=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ&pd_rd_w=0uPs5&pd_rd_wg=eAMNx&psc=1&refRID=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ
  
  I use these cloths on the LCD screen and the resin vat FEP sheet. After cleaning the resin vat FEP sheet and the LCD with paper towels, I give them a nice polish with the cleaning cloth to remove any other smudges or dust. Make sure to have a cloth dedicated to ONLY the LCD screen, as you want the keep the LCD screen pristine and free of dust and smudges.
  
  You'll also want a print curing station to harden the prints once they have been cleaned. I bought:
  
  
• A plastic cookie jar; clear plastic, round: https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/oxo-good-grips-reg-3-piece-pop-canister-set/3262796?categoryId=12605
  
  
• UV LED Light Strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZQZDBR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Heavy duty tape, such as duct tape or gorilla tape. I used black gorilla tape.
  
  
• Aluminum Foil
  
  

1. Wrap the LED strip around the plastic container to this effect: https://imgur.com/oB98Qxl . Make sure you wrap so that the power cable connector will be at the bottom of the container. Make sure you secure the beginning and the end of the LED strip to container with a piece of tape.
   
   
2. Wrap the LED'd container with aluminum foil - shiny side facing inward. Lay out a long piece of foil on the floor, shiny side facing up, just enough to cover the container's length once. Secure the beginning of the foil piece with a piece of tape, and then secure the end of the foil. Try to wrap without causing creases in the foil, keeping the foil as shiny and smooth as possible. Make sure your power cable plug in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   
3. Secure a piece of foil to the base, shiny side facing inward.
   
   
4. Secure a piece of foil to the lid, shiny side inward. Take a piece of tape and make a 2-sticky-sided loop to secure the foil. Make sure the foil is not interfering with the lid's ability to securely close.
   
   
5. Wrap the whole thing with your gorilla or duct tape. Make sure your power cable plug-in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   

I can definitely say I'm jealous! I wish I could do what you're doing.

The quality of the footage is definitely nice and high, which is always important in vlogs, especially in travel vlogs. I definitely recommend picking up some kind of microphone to improve the talking quality, but it's honestly not bad. It's just the easiest nitpick to make. One cost effective mic that I've had repeatedly recommended to me is this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015R0IQGW/?coliid=I27W1PR76WPIHS&colid=1T8AH88FFX71&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

The music felt fitting, and had that 'pop' music feel that is very appropriate for this type of video. I can agree with noodltube in that you should focus more on having the commentary match the clips (if at all possible), but I think the shots you did provide were really nice for the most part.

I would also suggest lowering the background audio as well.

Finding a format for videos, I find, is one of the biggest difficulties in creating content. I would suggest you heavily focus on determining what your format should be for future videos. This was just a trailer of sorts, so I'm not really criticizing this video as much as just giving you hopefully helpful hints for the future.

Keep giving it your all and I wish you luck on your journey! Sorry if my criticisms sound too harsh, I think you're off to a fine start.

Congrats on your new camera! As a general rule of thumb, having purchased hundreds of thousands worth of gear over my career, it's best to invest in the best glass that your budget can allow. Lenses generally hold their value over time and as long as you take care of them, can last decades. They will certainly outlive your camera. That said, the lens that you've chosen is fine as a starter, but I think you'll quickly outgrow it. Look for a faster lens (lower f-stop) if you can afford it. Personally, I went the route of going with vintage prime lenses that are cheaper but still great quality. I added a Metabones Speedbooster to be able to mount them. Higher up-front cost for you, but if this is more than just a hobby, I think it's a good investment.

The other thing I would add is an onboard microphone. A cheap one that is actually pretty good is this no-name brand one. The built-in microphone is pretty much useless.

Those are the bare essentials, in my opinion. I actually do okay with a handful of EN-EL20 batteries. They're cheap and compact. Just don't expect to record long events or anything beyond 20-30 minutes. You can get an external battery pack for not too expensive, though. If you have the budget, I'd also recommend a cage to protect, provide stability, and get extra mounting points. Hope that helps! Oh, and you may also want to hit up bmcuser.com for more info.

Cheap tripods are great for traveling, and I've given over a hundred demos with them, but they kinda get in the way, and the larger you make the footprint (to improve stability) -the more they encroach in your play space.

I use these tripods with these swivel adapter things for my on-the-road show. As long as they don't get bumped, you're good to go.

For home, I use This tension rod and this rod mount - you may need a longer rod- I run it from the top of my dresser to the ceiling and the top of my computer desk to the ceiling. The 87 inch one isn't long enough to go from floor to ceiling for me.

As far as other essentials, two of these help with plugging the lighthouses in. An HDMI Extender, Power extender, and a USB 3.0 Extender (those three work perfectly for me) will make your life 100x more easy, especially if your computer isn't directly next to your play space. The extra 10 feet makes a world of difference for reducing tangles, reducing the number of times you have to stop and untwist your cord, and making you not worry about yanking on your computer when you get to the far corner.

Lastly, this wireless keyboard thing will save you from running back and forth from your desktop.

---

As far as sweatyness, I got over the ickyness pretty quickly. My friends have mastered basic hygiene, and face sweat doesn't smell all gross or anything. After each demo, I run the foam under the sink to rinse it off, then dab it with a paper towel and set it on a box fan to dry. It's good to go as soon as the next person is done and I repeat the process. I ended up buying a set of new face foams from the HTC website after I lost my narrow face foam though :(

I don't really think there's a clear answer for this, but the good news is that there are many excellent options these days. Sound quality isn't always the most important aspect to consider. Many artists have had great success with just an SM58 microphone hooked up to their computer. If you're just starting up and you don't need studio quality recordings, something like this might be fine. I often just use a basic handheld mic when I'm multitracking a new arrangement for my group to learn. It's quick, simple, and often easier for recording beatboxing with too. There are plenty of free or affordable programs available for multitracking too, so the mic will be your main expense.

If you're looking to make some top quality recordings, you can expect to start spending more as well. Not going to lie - this is where it can get complicated and expensive. I'd recommend starting basic and get a decent condenser mic with a stand and a pop screen, a soundcard or usb mixer with a decent preamp, and stick with the cheaper software for recording.

If you find you're getting more serious with your recordings you may want to upgrade the microphone to a Neumann, install some noise dampening panels, and look into a DAW (digital audio workstation, or recording software) such as Pro Tools.

Whatever you do, don't spend too much on overpriced cables. Check out Monoprice

• I'm probably posting a cliche photography gift here but I absolutely love mine: Lens Mug
  
  
  
• Can't go wrong with a BlackRapid Strap
  
  
  
• If your brother takes a lot of landscapes and doesn't already have this must have tool in his gear which he should: Camera Remote Timer
  
  
  
• If he's always on the go and seems struggle w/ carrying his tripod everywhere, I recommend getting him a Gorilla Pod
  
  
• If he doesn't already have a great backpack for travelling while he is shooting his landscapes, I recommend Amazons Backpack for holding his gear. It's essentially a generic version of Canon's basic backpack.
  
  
  You can also find some fairly cheap "like new" film cameras on Craigslist along with some film.
  Film cameras are the best and it will probably be very nostalgic to the person you are gifting it to.
  
  
  I'm making the assumption that he has a Canon DSLR but you can find most of this gear if he has something like a Nikon, Sony, etc... One thing I love to receive to as a photography gift is more batteries! I use to shoot a lot of landscapes and I could never have enough of these.
  
  Anyways, hopefully you find something for your brother! Good luck!

A telescope is not out of your range if you know what you really want and can save for it. I have a "smaller" one, but having a larger diameter opening allows you to capture more light and peer deeper in to space. You should get what you want and strive to save for it. I want to go bigger, maybe an XT10 computerized.

My telescope is good, in fact it over-preformed every time I went out. The one gripe I have about almost almost every inexpensive telescope is that it is not motorized. We live on a spinning rock in the galaxy so the telescope needs to be constantly adjusted. All you do with the motorized is find 3 stars and it can take you on a tour of the universe. It does a lot of the work for you so you wont accidentally lose what you were looking at.

I'd also recommend buying some filters, It helps when you look at the moon or nebulae.

Also, instead of swapping eyepieces for closing in on objects, this zoom lens is extremely helpful. With just a twist you can go from 8mm to 24mm. I own that exact model and it's great, plus you cant lose

It seems expensive, but if you really want it, you'll find ways to save and get it. I hope this helps and when you DO make a final decision I'd like to know what its is.

Billions and Billions

I just picked up a [Rode NT-USB] (https://www.amazon.com/Rode-NT-USB-USB-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B00KQPGRRE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1526506838&sr=8-2&keywords=nt+rode+usb&linkCode=ll1&tag=thesysadminch-20&linkId=36cb209ceaf0e58a89cad9db949bf23f) and I love the quality. It has a great tone and has a good depth to it. It is a little pricey at $169 on Amazon but if you're going to be doing videos for the long haul I definitely think its worth the money.

While I was doing my research i also noticed a lot of people mention that they had a Blue Yeti from Blue Microphones and they liked it as well. This is also a USB mic and the sound quality is really similar (and the mic is about 50-60 bucks cheaper) but I just really liked how the Rode Mic sounded.. That's just personal preference. You can find this mic at around $100 so its still a little pricey but again, if you're going to be doing videos its still worth it.

If you're looking for something to use with a DSLR camera, I like the way the [Rode VMGO Shotgun Mic] (https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VMGO-Lightweight-Microphone-Super-Cardioid/dp/B00GQDORA4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1526507932&sr=1-1&keywords=rode+shotgun+mic&linkCode=ll1&tag=thesysadminch-20&linkId=35f8c1b5488c41dba8cf0a011e6d6db4) sounds. It has that full sound and this one comes in around a little under $80.

Finally if you're looking for something under $20 I would probably go with the [Boya By M1] (https://www.amazon.com/BOYA-Electret-Condenser-Microphone-Smartphones/dp/B00MP566OM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1526507786&sr=1-1&keywords=boys+by-m1&linkCode=ll1&tag=thesysadminch-20&linkId=c8648c47cac36d32bf6e84c547b8fdfa) mic. This is a lapel mic so its easily portable and for like $16 its a great starter mic.

I did my research for about 2 months because I was so indecisive on which type i wanted i get for my use case. Since I do Voice-overs I wanted to get something that's easily compatible with my laptop so thats why i chose the USB route. Keep in mind that audio quality is just as if not more important than the video quality.. If you're audio sucks, you won't keep long retention rates which means your videos won't rank as high which means less views and ultimately less subscribers.

Hope that helps!!

Wow! You did an excellent job of explaining how DSLR users can easily get into astrophotography. Those are some great example pics too. I like the details like the icons for the equipment needed for subject you are discussing. I agree this should go in the sidebar here.

While following the links you provided I noticed that Gary Seronik, who wrote the howto on the barn door tracker, has posted another simpler design on his blog. I haven't built one yet but it's on the ToDo list.

And wow, that Dark Skies Finder site is amazing. Thanks a bunch for that link. I am thinking of heading to South Dakota to get me some dark skies. Any advice on getting a shot of an aurora? Go further north I suspect.

I'm not sure if you use affiliate links to Amazon but I like that method of supporting a web site. I'm using a $15 knock-off timer/trigger that you might want to link to. It's not fancy but it doesn't need to be.

Also, thanks for posting the Photoshop tutorials in 1080p. Great job. Subscribed!

8SE owner for over eight years, let me see if I can tackle some of these questions.

1. I found the foam the OTA came with fit perfectly into an igloo cooler. I used this to store and transport it before finally upgrading to a JMI case.
   
   
2. You can defocus a star to see if it needs collimation.
   
   
3. It really shouldn't require much in the way of maintenance.
   
   
4. No clue, but feel free to ask me if you have specific questions.
   
   
5. Humidity can promote fungal growth, probably not a bad idea to throw a silica packet or two in your case. I've taken mine 4-wheeling, left it out overnight in the desert, etc and never had any issues.
   
   
6. I absolutely love my Hand Control Mounting Bracket, it makes it much more pleasant to use. My JMI Motofocus takes care of any vibrations during focusing, and a Telrad made alignment much easier. I did eventually upgrade to a 50mm RACI finder as well. You'll probably want to pick up a dew shield and/or dew heater strips depending on where you live.
   
   Enjoy and clear skies, there's no need to be nervous about your new telescope!

Agreed. You CAN us an SM57 for vocals. In fact, I know some musicians that use those for when they play live. But, just for bedroom recording, a condenser mic will be much more suited. What type of music are you guys making? If he's going to be yelling/screaming, the 57 will do (it'll be quiet on the Scarlett if he's just going to sing regularly is what I'm saying). As would any dynamic mic I would think. The condenser mic though utilizes the 48v phantom power on the Scarlett and they usually are better at picking up quieter sounds like singing, acoustic guitars, etc... SM57s are great for things like snare drums and stuff like that. But as far as condenser mics, I can vouch for the Rode NT1a. It's just a bit more expensive than what you're saying, but man... it really sounds incredible for vocals. Awesome mic. Anyway... That's my two cents. PM me if you want to talk more. That's an awesome present too btw. Oh! Good call on the Focusrite too. They make great shit. But yep, I hope he likes whatever you end up getting. :-)

Hi there. This is a genuine antique Japanese sword. Specifically, it's a [hira-zukuri](#t "flat cross section") [wakizashi](#t "short sword"). Please read my owner's guide for details on care, photography, appraisal and restoration. In particular, we will need more (and specific) photos of the blade. Mounts and blades are related but separate topics.

The fittings are typical middling-level Edo period (1603-1868) work; the [fuchi](#t "reinforcing metal collar on the hilt") and [kashira](#t "metal cap on the end of the hilt") done in [shakudo](#t "a black alloy of copper and gold") [nanako](#t "lit. fish roe, many small dots hand-punched") have suffered some white/green corrosion suggesting this piece has been stored in a wet environment (garage?). The [menuki](#t "palm ornaments") are interesting, a gold basket and something else in shakudo? I can't quite see (also you've shown them upside-down). Again a bit of corrosion in the shakudo. The [tsuba](#t "hand guard") looks to be an iron example — as is common — with a pictorial scene; I am not an expert in iron tsuba, so you may want to post in the tosogu forum of the Nihonto Message Board for an assessment of which school/tradition this piece would fall into. Finally, the [habaki](#t "metal reinforcing wedge that marries the blade to the scabbard") looks to be two-piece silver, usually these are silver jacket over copper but we can't see based on these photos. [Saya](#t "scabbard") is a typical black lacquered piece, totally standard.

As to the blade: please read the guide I linked above and get us the photos listed therein, especially of the tang. The patina on the tang, file marks, shape, peg holes, everything tells a story — and with any luck, there'll be a signature we can cross-reference against records. Oh, and please carefully wipe down the blade with a microfiber cloth, e.g. camera cloth to clean off any smudges and the like so we get the best results from the pics. But don't do anything to harm the existing polish! Simply wiping with a dry microfiber cloth is sufficient.

However, even without that, I can tell you a couple things. Unless I'm mistaking smudges or oil or something for hamon, the thing that immediately stands out is the wandering, randomized, patchy splashes of [hamon](#t "martensitic white edge steel from differential quenching") in the pattern known as hitatsura. That pattern is classically associated with the Soshu (Sagami province) school of classical smithing, one of the five major categorizations of Japanese smithing traditions. Also, a broad (profile) but thin (cross-section) hira-zukuri wakizashi is typical of this school. They tended to do a higher-temperature heat treatment resulting in the formation of nie, coarse visible martensitic particles which form various aggregate structures and effects in the steel. Done well, it's very prized and beautiful; done poorly, it's seen as a bit uncontrolled. The difference is subtle and I wouldn't venture a final guess on quality from just these photos, but it looks decent if not exactly masterful.

My gut feeling right now is that we are looking at a sue-Soshu (late Soshu) piece, 1500s or later, by one of the Tsunahiro 綱廣 line. They are decent swords but most of the later generations are not masterpieces or exceptionally valuable. You can see some representative examples, some in hitatsura, here / here / here and here. This is a significant guess on my part, I practice kantei (a "blind" appraisal game) but am not exactly a master at it. I'm more thinking out loud than making an actual appraisal right now. Let's get that hilt off and see the tang!

You're an awesome girlfriend by default, FYI. :)

> What is the best camera?

Eh, it's a debatable point. The newest/latest/greatest is the Hero3+ Black Edition. However, last year's flagship model, the Hero3 Black Edition, is still quite fantastic and probably the more preferable model right now because of some possible focus issues with the Hero3+ BE.

> Does it take pictures too?

heck yeah, check out their instagram for a few samples.

> Does it need an sd card or some sort of disk for recording?

Yep, you'll/he'll need a micro SD card with a minimum read/write speed. GoPro has a list of acceptable cards here

> Is there anything else I should buy with it that would be necessary such as an extra battery or a stand or something?

The battery life isn't fantastic... it wouldn't hurt to grab a wasabi battery set on amazon. A lot of us use/like them as a generic alternative.

Also, there's a billion and a half mounts for GoPros available from both GoPro and 3rd party manufacturers. Depending on what he'll do with the camera, he may need/want one or the other. You COULD get him one/some of these, but I think it'd probably be better to let him decided what's best for how he'll use it.

Good luck, and keep being an awesome GF!

Hi 'ra available to you is probably your smartphone.

You can significantly improve your phone's video image quality by downloading FiLMiC Pro from iTunes.

This app will allow you to control aspect ratio, white balance, exposure, resolution and frame rates - turning your iPhone into a pretty good approximation of a camcorder.

FiLMiC Pro was used for this recent feature film shot entirely on iPhones:

• Unsane Trailer by Stephen Soderburgh (full movie here)
  
  And this one, shot with FiLMiC Pro and inexpensive anamorphic "widescreen" lenses plus a Steadicam Smootheecounterbalanced stabilizer:
  
  
• Tangerine - Red Band Trailer (NSFW - full movie here)
  
  This one used FiLMiC Pro, iPhones and a jib:
  
  
• "ALL UP TO YOU!" - iPhone 5 Movie
  
  Without a stabilizer or gimbal, handheld cellphone video can be very hard to watch.
  
  You should also invest in a directional mic or a lavalier for better sound than you can get from the built-in mic. Ideally, you would want a dedicated mic on a boom, but I am assuming you don't have a boom operator.
  
  Directional Mic
  
  The least expensive option is the Rode VideoMic Me. It is the best directional mic you can buy for your phone.
  
  Here is the Rode promo video with example audio: https://youtu.be/1-x8MVngwaI
  
  Lavalier
  
  For dialogue between 2 actors, you can get a Movo dual lavalier. You can either plug it into the phone you're using for video - or you can download an app to a second phone (e.g. Rode REC for iOS), record a "scratch" audio track with your camera phone's internal microphone and sync the audio from the second phone to your camera's audio track in the edit, as seen here (example is for the Rode SmartLav, but it makes the point for the entire lav/phone category):
  
  http://youtu.be/P2RIFZOGMZo
  
  With the right software and support gear, your phone can give you great video quality.
  
  Hope this is helpful, and good luck with your short films!', im DAD.

Hey man, I meant to reply to you earlier, but I was going to work.
The issue you described is similar to an issue I had just over a year ago, except it was an el cheapo Walkman FX-28 but nonetheless, it could help. Read my post and listen to my sample audio. Skip around to near the end for more distortion. I eventually figured out that every battery I was putting in there was drained. I know it sounds stupid and insults your intelligence a bit, but try fresh alkaline batteries. None of that cheap Sunbeam or dollar store blue Panasonic bullshit. I'm talking straight Duracell and Energizer. Even better though, Panasonic Eneloops Best rechargeable batteries on Planet Earth period. Plus IIRC, your Walkman uses 4 batteries and this pack comes with 4 precharged batteries as well as a simple, yet effective charger.

Now, I also happened to disassemble my Walkman at the same time as when I changed my batteries to fresh ones. It may have been that I freed something, possibly the belt, that may have been previously stuck or grinding somewhere causing my issue. I know your issue isn't speed, but I had distortion as well.

Your issue might also be most likely due to your dirty volume potentiometer. Get some DeoxIT and spray that bitch and rock it back and forth. I forget the right kind to use, but luckily, I made a post on TapeHeads.net asking exactly that question. Read the long reply and you'll know what to use.

90%, this is your solution right here, provided your batteries are fresh and nothing else is horribly wrong with your Walkman. I read that the D6 and D6C have problems with grease turning to glue and it's pretty common. That can cause at best, some wow and flutter and at worst, tape eating or refusing to work at all. You should look at getting it fixed by the guy in Slovakia who goes by Dr. Walkman, mihokm, or Marian. He does excellent work on restoring these things.

Hope this helps.

Not paid by Panasonic, just my honest opinion.

Not really.

I'd like to offer you some suggestions for your videos that could improve them a lot, if that's ok.

1. Audio. If you can, I'd recommend getting a lavalier microphone (Something like this). That'll improve your audio quality quite a bit and pretty much eliminate most of that echo in your room. Another thing I highly, highly recommend for you is music. Get a bit of background music to use in your videos while you're talking, it'll help a lot. There's tons of royalty free sources online for music. Incompetech.com is one, or even YouTube's own audio library.
   
   
2. Camera Video. There's...quite a few things that could be done about your video quality. Intros are fine, but it looks like you used a template online. I always advise against these, as they are a dime a dozen and don't really add much to the video. If you upload fairly regularly I'd just get rid of it completely and just jump right into the topic of the video. I also noticed that your lighting could use some work. Most don't realize how much this adds to a video. I recommend getting a pair of these, softbox lights. They add a nice soft light that looks great. If you want to get a little pricier, these are very popular. Ring lights provide a nice soft lighting that's used by a lot of vloggers.
   
3. Game video. I noticed that you just recorded the switch screen. To me, that's below bare minimum quality for games. You need a capture card of sorts that you can plug the Switch into, then record off of the capture card. If you just have that laptop, you could probably get away with using an external capture card, like an Elgate Game Capture. These are able to capture gameplay from any game system with an HDMI out, and the Switch dock has one of those.

Don’t forget a mic. this mic should be all you need to get started. It’s a great mic that punches well above its price class. But please don’t forget about audio. I know you stated “I won’t do much of that” but audio is so damn important and this mic is so cheap that you can’t afford not to pick one up. Even for tiny bits of audio it will make your stuff sound 1000times better and audio is often what separates the people with pretty images from people making truly great videos. And definitely a big factor in what separates amateurs from professionals. I guarantee you’ll use/need/want quality audio way more than you think. For under 30$ bucks it will be the best investment you make. Much more important than a new camera IMO.

Here’s my 2 cents from someone who has done both professional video and amateur photography. Don’t get any of those kits. Almost everything is cheaper/better quality buying separately.

First, the body. I love the rebel series so I think a T7 is more than fine with what your trying to do right now. As someone who also has a “family camera” (aka I do all the family photos and some video), I personally have a 70D but I have used the T’s a lot and they are decent. My only recommendation is to by a referb from canon directly. They are usually $100-$200 cheaper and (from what I have seen) no difference in quality.

As you rightly pointed out, lenses are going to be the most important and most expensive thing that you buy (more than likely). Personally for a first lens, I would go with a nifty fifty (canon 50mm 1.8). It’s about $100 and it is fantastic for both photos and video for that price point. Plus, unless you are planning on getting a light kit of some sort you will probably want the addition aperture room for low light (unless you are doing video outside). There is a reason why it is the most recommended lens for amateurs. I personally have shot tons of portraits, music videos, and just other general video/pictures with this lens and even though I (now) have a few others I keep coming back to this one.

I don’t know much about audio, but I have heard some decent things about the rode mic. There is also an off-brand version of the rode mix (what I use) called [Takstar](TAKSTAR SGC-598 Interview Microphone for Nikon/Canon Camera/DV Camcorder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E58AA0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S1M1BbAP1Z3QC). It seems to be pretty decent for amateur stuff, so it might be good enough for your purposes with the added bonus of being 1/3 the price. But I’m sure that someone can speak more to the audio than I can.

One place to absolutely NOT skimp on/don’t buy in a kit is a tripod. For the most part, the more expensive a tripod is, the better quality it is. Not always true, but for the most part the materials that are used to make tripods are just expensive. If you want a metal tripod, which you probably do since the plastic ones wear out easily and can’t hold much weight.

Anyway, just my thoughts!

Thanks for posting

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Movable Lighthouse Solution by Mbbobrow


Not a super cheap alternative but I think this should be a great solution for a non permanent low profile install.

Impact Deluxe Varipole Support System - Black (Pair)
http://www.amazon.com/Impact-Deluxe-Varipole-Support-System/dp/B008OM1FZU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

SUPON New Camera Super Clamp Tripod for Holding LCD Monitor/DSLR Cam
http://www.amazon.com/SUPON-Camera-Tripod-Holding-Monitor/dp/B00PICAE4C?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01

$200 bucks is certainly pricy but these look great and should be super versatile.

	

	

	

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Just a few thoughts: If you are a beginner and especially if you are going to be both operating the camera and doing interviews at the same time, don't use a DSLR. You need a regular consumer camcorder, the nicest one you can afford. Be sure it has an external microphone input and a headphone output. So, you will need at least one external microphone, a shotgun and/or a lavalier. The most important thing in your documentary is good sound!

This little Audio Technica lavalier can sound just fine:
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-3350-Omnidirectional-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B002HJ9PTO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382119845&sr=8-2&keywords=audio+technica+lavalier+mic

This inexpensive shotgun also works well:
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382119920&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+technica+shotgun+mic

A little explanation: A consumer camcorder has pretty good auto focus and usually face recognition, so you won't have to worry about keeping things in focus. Also, you'll have pretty good auto exposure and auto white balance. If you are shooting your first documentary with limited experience and/or a very small crew, you need to think about content and let the camera help you instead of having to think about too many things. It's true a DSLR with a good operator can make your documentary look better, but it won't matter if the story isn't there. If your story is good, the audience will accept a lot of shortcomings, especially in the picture.

When shooting, use the external microphone whenever you can. If you have only one subject, use the lavalier, otherwise use the shotgun. Always monitor the audio in the headphones. I have a friend who accidentally plugged the microphone into the headphone jack and didn't know it until too late!

Good luck!

Hey guys, I hope this is the right place to ask this.

To make a long story short, I'm looking to buy a mic to use for Skype/TS/VoIP type stuff, mostly while gaming. I'm also looking to try something nicer than the low grade desk mics that I've used in the past. I was previously planning to just buy something like the Audio Technica AT2020 USB, but I'd like to try to find a solution that will allow me to reduce the level of sound that my mic picks up from other sources, primarily my mechanical keyboard, which is loud as hell.

To this end, I was thinking about picking up a fairly cheap shotgun mic and hooking it into a USB mixer that I could plug into my computer. I think the shotgun mic's directional nature would be an improvement on the mics I've been using (and that my friends have been complaining about) and would have less sound picked up from my keyboard (although I know it won't go away entirely).

Keeping in mind that I'm on a college student budget, and that this isn't for any kind of recording/voice over work for music or anything, here's what I had planned:

Audio-Technica ATR-6550 as the mic. It's low-cost and has reasonably good reviews. I've owned a few different pairs of AT headphones before and never had any complaints about their build quality or performance, so this seems like a good pickup at my price point. If this setup works, I could consider picking up a nicer mic later on in time.

Behringer Xenyx 302USB as the mixer. Again, low cost and obviously not stellar in performance or options, but I don't need it to do very much.

My understanding of it is that I can hook the mixer into my computer via USB, and it will register it as a recording/playback device. Then I can hook the shotgun mic (with a 1/4in adaptor on it) into the XLR/TRS mic input and that will serve as the new mic. I also should be able to plug my headphones into the headphones jack and my speakers into the output of the mixer, so that all of the recording and playback devices are handled by the mixer.

Ultimately, however, I don't actually know anything about audio equipment, including the mic and mixers. So if anyone has any advice to offer or suggestions to make, that'd be greatly appreciated. Also, if I'm completely wrong about how the inputs/outputs or something like that on the mixer works, then it'd be awesome if someone could help explain it to me.

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Description|Why you should buy a futon// futons on amazon: US: https://amzn.to/2IpbnQR UK: https://amzn.to/2Xjlfiu CA: https://amzn.to/2Io0pLs⤶You should buy a japanese futon for many reasons and in this video I cover benefits ranging from the construction / composition of a futon as well as the practical benefits one gets from having a futon. As well as some pointers to look out for when in the market for a futon mattress.⤶⤶You can find futons on amazon:⤶US: https://amzn.to/2IpbnQR⤶UK: https://amzn.to/2Xjlfiu⤶CA: https://amzn.to/2Io0pLs⤶⤶This video was recorded using a Canon EOS M50: US: https://amzn.to/2Kxbw6J ⤶UK: https://amzn.to/2P5VKhA CA: https://amzn.to/2UzLeFi⤶Microphone - RODE VideoMicro: US: https://amzn.to/2DbOig1 UK: https://amzn.to/2Zaez87 CA: https://amzn.to/2X8V3Xw⤶⤶Looking to start a YouTube channel I recommend using the analytics tools⤶VidIQ: https://vidiq.com/#_l_yv⤶TubeBuddy: https://www.tubebuddy.com/AlexTheAnder⤶⤶DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.⤶⤶In this video Alexander talks about why people should buy a futon, what the benefits are of owning a japanese futon as it relates to it's material composition, it's benefits for the body as well as some tips for how to best take care of it and what to look out for when in the market for buying a japanese futon bed.

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Jupiter and especially Saturn looked underwhelming for me in my telescope, but after cleaning up my eyepieces's lens and secondary mirror with just a wet and dry paper towel my quality was greatly increased. Weather conditions like heavy wind and humidity can also affect the view pretty badly. Collimating your telescope properly is something you probably hear all the time, but it really does make a big difference. As for eyepieces, the Celestron Omni has served me well but I've upgraded to a "Baader Planetarium 8-24mm Hyperion Clickstop Zoom Mark IV Eyepiece" (what a mouthful). The views are noticably better and the zoom feature is so, so, soooo convenient. It's especially handy for showing friends and family who are not into the hobby, as you don't have to change the eyepieces constantly for them. It runs for about 300 dollars which is a big asking point, but there are cheaper alternatives like the Celestron zoom eyepiece (https://www.amazon.com/Celestron-93230-24mm-1-25-Eyepiece/dp/B0007UQNV8) which are only 65 dollars. I would recommend getting one of those, a decent 2x barlow (shouldn't be more than 40 dollars), and a dedicated large eyepiece (in the 30-40mm range). That's all you really need for casual observing by yourself or to show friends and family.

You can get these poles, which are 15$/pop, and just as good, but a little bit shorter.

I also recommend this style of camera mount instead of the solid mount you recommend. Affords you a little bit more flexibility in mounting, these cost quite a bit more, but are way more solid/flexible.

But yeah, these extendable poles are amazing. Super cheap, portable, real easy to use. Plus, chances are you have a local harbor freight, so you can get em faster if you really want to.

Hey! You got some pretty cool shots here! I have a couple recommendations:

Depending on what you're shooting video with, it looks kind of like you shot a lot of the video at a faster shutterspeed and the video at 60 frames per second. With a few exceptions, it generally looks better/more natural to the human eye if you shoot in 30 or 24 frames per second and as a rule of thumb double that for your shutterspeed. So 30fps =1/60 and 24 fps = 1/50. Unless you have a reason to shoot outside of one of those two that's a good default. 60fps is also pretty good for slowing down footage for a subtle slo-mo if that's what you chose to shoot natively, for a travel video like this, that could be pretty cool.

Also, some of your shots are pretty shaky, I would advise for stuff like this to get a handheld stabilizer like this one or if you can't do that, the stabilizing software within the editing suite you're using (and preferably, do BOTH of those things for really radical, smooth shots).

You'd be surprised how much better your footage will look doing just those two things! :) keep making stuff like this friend!!

Hi, cool idea, but:

I would strongly consider not looking for a new telescope with that budget. It's possible you can pick up a used one, but if you don't know your way around them, that way is fraught with issues.

A lot of people also end up disappointed with lower-end scopes because they expect to be able to see much more (you most likely won't be able to see the rings of Saturn or the moons of Jupiter, that sort of thing).

Some ideas:

• if the person has a telescope or some knowledge, how about offering to contribute to a telescope purchase? Or buying accessorries like an eyepice, some filters, or a good green laser collimator? I recently bought a Telrad sight and love it.
  
• a decent set of binoculars is a pretty neat thing to have, and more versatile than a telescope - my old military binoculars that I always keep in my car surprised me by letting me see the Pleiades really nicely
  
• some good astronomy / stargazing books (the Backyard Astronomer's Guide, for example]
  

I'm using a Orion Maksutov Cassegrain 90mm, https://www.telescope.com/Orion-Apex-90mm-Maksutov-Cassegrain-Telescope/p/9820.uts on a dobsonian mount, it's small enough to fit in my backback but has powerful magnification (has a 1250mm focal length).

I use a t-adapter to mount my camera right to the scope, no eye piece is used. it's called "prime focus" mode, it's simple and the light from the telescope falls directly on the film (or image sensor if youre using digital). Best way to go by far in re image quality.

HOWEVER, to get started, I think there is no better way than using ANY scope you can buy, and using your iphone/android with a camera mount: https://www.amazon.com/Gosky-Universal-Phone-Adapter-Mount/dp/B013D2ULO6/ref=zg_bs_3426051_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YWC66GBKMH57CV86FY3W this approach is called "afocal imaging" which is fancy speak for "holding your phone against the eye piece"

Digital astrophotography is 10x easier than film astrophotography because you get instant feedback and can make adjustments on the fly. I do film because I love the "light falling on film" aspect of it. But I started out on digital and 99% of my astro-gear is digital.

re which telescope: really pick whatever you can find, and don't go to large. A 90mm reflector or reflector will be able to see the SAME exact things as a 135mm reflector...only REALLY large scopes can see very far into the universe, and large scopes require large 5 thousand dollar tripods to track the objects correctly for imaging...so it's all a moo point

any of these scopes + your phone would make a great set up: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=90mm+telescope&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

oh and check out craiglist, soooo many people get into telescopes for a month then sell them later dirt cheap.

love discussing this stuff, dm me if you have any q's

TL;DR: 220 for scope plus a t-adapter

I have the Hero3 black and it works great. I record at 720p 60fps wide and get around 40 minutes per battery. Obviously there are some improvements with the later models but if you're mainly looking to record while riding for insurance/dashcam purposes the Hero 3 will work just fine. If you are interested in making high quality videos or using the camera elsewhere then I would maybe consider the Hero3+ or waiting for the Hero4.

The curved sticky mount that came with works great on the top of my helmet. I'm not sure how to mount on the chin, sorry. As long as your mount is secure the video will be nice and smooth.

I would highly recommend picking this bundle from Amazon - includes 2 batteries and a wall charger: http://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-AHDBT-201-AHDBT-301-AHDBT-302/dp/B00AAIPT76/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409372144&sr=8-1&keywords=go+pro+battery

If you have any other questions let me know.

If it were up to me, I would get a Rode Video Micro, which is around $40 cheaper than the Video Mic Go, (I'm going USD because that's where I am, not sure if you are GBP or what, but the price ratio should be around the same) and from most of the reviews out there seems to be a bit better all around, and it comes with a dead-cat wind breaker, which you would have to pay extra for if you got the Go. If you are shooting in a forest you'll want that to help break any wind noise coming in through the trees.

Here is a review comparing the Video Micro with the Video Mic Go and the Video Mic Pro:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSfDWCpRUk8

So case 1 is get a Video Mic Go for around $100 (https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VMGO-Lightweight-Microphone-Super-Cardio/dp/B00GQDORA4) and get a dead cat wind screen for around $30 (https://www.amazon.com/Rode-DDCGO-DeadCat-Artificial-Shield/dp/B00JG8IBW6/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X6C0TJQWT1W5RK1TW680) because you will absolutely need it if there is any kind of wind. That would be around $130-140 depending on shipping/tax/etc.

Case 2 is get a Rode Video Micro, which I personally own and really really like, and that is $60 AND comes with a wind screen, so for the money you have saved you could get a Zoom H1 as well and come out pretty close to the same price!
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1183909-REG/rode_videomicro_compact_on_camera.html
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1260111-REG/zoom_h1b_h1_ultra_portable_digital_audio.html
$60 for the mic + ~$80 for the recorder puts you at $140, so like $10 more. Not bad in my opinion. And it gets you the peace of mind of being able to monitor your audio, make sure that you don't have any weird interference or background noise since it has a headphone jack. Yes, you have to sync audio in post, but it is totally worth it in the huge jump in audio quality. This is basically the setup that I used for quite a while (H1+ Nikon ME-1 mic for me, so this setup is probably even better) and it is a really cheap option compared to what is out there (now I am using a Zoom H4n Pro + Sennheiser Lavalier Mics + Rode Video Mic Pro and some other gear as well,) and there probably isn't a massive difference between the two setups.

Just my opinion, but I think that you would end up with better audio the second way, and the audio really makes the movie. Bad audio and a good video image/story still generally is a bad video.

>Basically I'm looking for one that runs on AA batteries, is relatively easy to pocket or doesn't take up too much space on my duty belt; something decently bright to cut through foliage and search for objects/people.

>I've been looking at the Nitecore EA41/21 and MT2A.

"Cut through foliage". So you're looking for something with good throw/tight hotspot? Just remember, the larger the reflector, the more throw. The EA21/MT2A isn't going to have the throw that the EA41 has due to the smaller reflector on them. There's really no good throwers in those smaller sizes but for the EA41 size, I'd suggest getting the Thrunite TN41 XP-L HI instead which puts the EA41 to shame. This guy is 5mm shorter but 5mm wider but the thing that excels in this guy is the XP-L HI emitter which is designed for even more improved throw over other emitters on the market.

As many suggest, rechargeable are the way to go which I'll show you. I've actually borrowed the EA41 from my buddy to test which here is the runtime on High output. As you can see the NiMH rechargeable Eneloop batteries put both Energizer and Rayovac to shame. Yes Eneloop may be more expensive up front but they can be recharged up to 2000 times. So even though we know in the graph that 4 Eneloop batteries out-perform 4 Alkaline batteries, lets just pretend that they were equal. So you can get a 4 pack with a charger for $18 which would replace at least 8000 Alkaline batteries (4 rechargeable AA x 2000 recharge cycles). Can you get that many Alkalines for that price? Buy a backup 4 pack and you just replace another 8000 batteries along with having a backup of your own set so you'll always have a fresh set of batteries waiting on the charger.

One note, if you ever do think you'll get into Lithium-Ion batteries, I'd suggest getting a different charger like the Nitecore D4. I have this guy which can charge both Li-ion & NiMH batteries of many many sizes.

As for Lithium-Ion flashlight suggestions (just to throw them out there), the Armytek Predator XP-L HI is nearly best in class which it should have the same throw as the Thrunite mentioned above. It has a 5mm smaller head, obviously the body is thinner, but it's 40mm longer due to the tail-switch. Also check out the Nitecore MH27 which is nearly similar but has a little better user interface. An added note for the Predator that uses an 18650 Li-ion battery, a single high capacity 18650 battery out-performs over 6 AA Alkaline batteries, even though it's not much bigger than one. This means you can get more power and runtime in smaller applications. Plus these can be recharged as well for 500 cycles so they replace over 2500 AA batteries.

As someone who has scratched their lenses with their glasses, PLEASE buy some sort of lens protectors! I bought these in black https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3653631

And while not needed I also purchased the 3D printed brackets for the DAS mod. I bought the first design, but I think they have improved a bit since then.

I would also highly recommend the AMVR facial interface, it has a cut out specifically for glasses and it is super comfortable. https://www.amazon.com/AMVR-Interface-Bracket-Leather-Replacement/dp/B07VT3BM7P

I also bought the VR cover DAS padding because the DAS started to hurt the back of my head. the VR cover padding is AMAZING! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0749JN5G7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Finally, I picked these up rechargeable batteries and they hold a charge for a really long time. I would highly recommend them. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSMJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope this list helps!

I really like the quality of the audio. I've used it as my only source of audio for 4 short films as a mixer and even some foley with the onboard mics. I use it separately with a shotgun mic on a boom (just using whatever mic I can get from my school, haven't purchased one yet).

However, I wouldn't recommend it for your case of recording on your camera because you'd end up having to (and I've never tried this) rigging up a way to have it attached to your camera then lined in to the camera with the onboard mics which are fine for receptions and all but bad if you want to focus on people talking (then to fix that you'd have to attach a shotgun mic via XLR and it just becomes cumbersome).

I would honestly look into the mic that the OP has: Rode VideoMic Pro. I've never used it but it has great reviews and seems, to me, to be the best cheap solution for on-camera audio. Use it outdoors with a deadcat and Magic Lantern installed on your T2i to monitor the audio while filming and it'll be a great option for videography and short films.

OR/ALSO/HEY RICH GUY CHECK THIS OUT, you can use this JuicedLink DT414 which is designed to attach to your camera and mix up to 4 mics. Yeah...lots of options.

Here is what I am using. Have had zero issues with my setup and is also extremely easy to move and demo at other people's houses. Might have to get more creative if you have very high ceilings or slanted ceilings.

Harbor Freight Support Poles - These work great, they don't support a lot of load, but you don't need it to. They are also half the price of what everyone else is recommending on Amazon.

Camera Mount Clamp - Have had no issues with these, either, and very cheap. They allow you to also rotate the lighthouses in a very large arc depending on the setup you have.

I have had no stability issues; everything is rock solid tracking wise. The foot print is also like 3 x 6 inches on the floor. The low profile pads make it very easy to hide them behind book cases or other furniture as well. And you can get all of it for under $50.

I don't understand why you would ever use tripods, as they takes up 100 times the space and are less stable than the support poles. Good luck on your setup!

EDIT: Formatting.

That's cool. Was just checking you had considered the options... From an audio point of view, a voiceover will result in cleaner audio, but it sounds like capturing the moment is more important to you.

I'm not familiar with the mic you have... I looked at it on Amazon just now and it should work fine for you, but if it's too sensitive then you need to lower the gain (level) of the mic at it's input stage. Is it the Voice Memos app that you've been using? I don't think that has gain control. I believe the Røde Rec LE app is free and has input level control, so I'd give that a try. Or the PCM Recorder MK II app by TEAC/Tascam should do the same if you prefer that.

If that doesn't work then it's likely that the mic is just too sensitive for yoru application and you might have to consider another option. I don't have much experience with consumer lav mics, only professional ones, but I've heard people say the Røde smartLav+ is surprisingly decent for the price and it has headset mount available too.

Other than that, I think you'd have to step it up a level and look at a better quality mic and probably a hardware audio recorder.

From reading the other comments I'm guessing you don't so I would either get a used camera or use your phone. The budget of yours is quite limiting to fit in audio, lighting and a decent camera however it may work if you get a slightly older camera.

I would get the t3i body only which you can get at an average of $300. This has an articulating screen, good for interviews, and is still a good beginner camera years on from when it was released. The lens I would get is the YONGYUO YN50mm f.18 which is an cheap autofocus lens at a fixed distance to achieve the best quality.

For microphones I would reccommend the Takstar SGC-598 which is really cheap and surprisingly good. You can put this on a mic stand and get it as close to both the interviewer and the interviewee for the best sound. You will then need a wire to connect it to the camera. However if you have extra money you can save up for a Zoom h1 which you plug the mic into and it records seperately for better audio.

All in all this kit will cost you $500 for just the audio and no lighting. This would cost you about $50 extra for softboxes however if you shoot in daylight it will be much easier and require less lighting.

Another kit you could try is using your phone for video and then buying just audio and lighting. For this I would get the Rode Videomic Pro, the Zoom h1, a mic stand, a softbox lighting kit (2 lights) and any other things like memory cards etc. This would cost you around $400.

The type of stabilizer you need will depend greatly on your budget and camera size. They range in price from $20-$10k so there's no "right" one you need.

The first thing I would do is figure out how much your camera setup weighs (including the camera body, lens, battery, and any monitors/extras that you plan on having on the camera when shooting). Either weight it on a scale or find out how much each part weighs online and add. Give yourself some wiggle room with the weight limit so you don't buy a useless rig (i.e. if a stabilizer's weight range is 2-5lb, I would put 4.5lb on it at the most).

As far as what type of stabilizer to get, that's all a personal preference. Handheld monopod-type stabilizers are cheap and will get you steady shots, but you have to keep in mind that your arms will get tired very quickly.

Shoulder mounts tend to not be perfectly steady, and are usually used to mimic hand-held (where actual hand-held creates way too shaky footage). Don't buy a shoulder mount with the intent of getting steadicam-esque shots. On the plus side, they're usually cheaper than cages and are easier to use over long periods.

Cages (like the Movi or Ronin) provide excellent results but are often cost-prohibitive for somebody buying their first stabilizer. They tend to take smaller cameras and require some skill in setting them up and using them properly, but if you have the money and your camera fits, you should definitely consider one. I've used the Movi M5 a number of times and it's awesome, albeit a pain to set up and very costly.

In short, do your research and don't feel like you need to drop $5k to get a good stabilizer. If you want help picking a stabilizer for your set-up feel free to DM me and I would love to help!

Glad I could help!

All the cameras will have a built-in mic but I'd highly recommend getting an external shotgun mic (one that sits on top of the camera). They're not that expensive and the quality difference is super worth it. One thing to note though is that some camera's don't have an external mic jack so make sure your camera has that.

[This one](https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VideoMicro-Compact-Camera-Microphone/dp/B015R0IQGW/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=rode+shotgun&qid=1569370736&sr=8-10) is pretty popular and not that expensive. You could also check eBay to get a better deal on one.

Sorry for the delayed response: Yeah, step one is to usually invest in a decent cardioid mic and an audio input. Here are the ones I'd recommend for getting started. Good enough quality to be just under professional tier, though capable of producing professional quality sound, but not so expensive as to offer you features you don't need for years to come:
Mic: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QAUOKS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio Interface (to be able to plug that or any other professional mic into [XLR input]): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6T56CM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this is optional but can be helpful to understand the true sound of your recordings, monitors:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075QVMBT9/ref=twister_B07NDRK282?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
(either the 3.5 or 4.5 would be totally fine)

Aside from t hose t hings, the only other things you'd need to get set up would be soundproofing foam, either putting panels up around your space, or around the mic itself. Conversely, you could set up inside a closet full of clothes and accomplish the same task for free, cable length and space permitting.

Good luck!

The corner / wall method is your best option for minimal equipment. White walls are best, grey walls would work too. You will need a single flash or strobe with a cheap light stand / umbrella, and ideally a tripod / tethered laptop to make sure shots are consistent and ensure exposure looks good. Normally you would need a trigger for the flash, but you can use your pop-up flash as an optical trigger without affecting the exposure (covered in the video I linked below).

Cheap Stand / Umbrella ($29): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HR0M4Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap / Reliable Flash ($63): https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Professional-Wireless-Speedlight-Flashlight/dp/B00EVMIHPS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510120921&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=yongnuo+yn+560&psc=1&smid=A23V097EB9TP7J

And the following items are not 100% necessary, but you can use them for anything in your house, not just the flash - and these batteries are fantastic.

Rechargable Batteries with Charger ($18): https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-K-KJ17MCA4BA-Individual-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00JHKSMJU/ref=pd_bxgy_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RVHZJ9CHST6PRESKD9YC

8-Pack Rechargable AA Batteries ($19): https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3MCCA8BA-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00JHKSN5I/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510121000&sr=1-3&keywords=eneloop&dpID=51JN-N5n6NL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Here's a video explaining single speed light portraits: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQCtYqqt5lk&t=960s
They have some similar videos too, worth checking out.

Just get your settings right with test shots, shoot raw, shoot full manual with an aperture of 5.6 or 8, ISO 100, 1/200 of a second. Your flash through umbrella will probably be at 1/4 or 1/8 power. The closer the light source is to the subject, the softer the light will be. Check your histogram to make sure you aren't blowing out any highlights. Tell people to wear basic, neutral clothes for the shoot, ideally not white, and have them all bring one alternate outfit just in case.

There is a lot that goes into it, but just watch some YouTube videos (Tony Chelsea, Gavin Hoey on Adorama), practice a bit with yourself, friends, family, and you'll be good to go.

If you have any other questions about it, feel free to PM me!

Edit: As far as lenses go, use the 50mm 1.8. It's the sharpest lens in your kit. Don't use it wide open, shoot at f5.6 or higher, and make sure your subject is about 5-6 feet from the wall behind them.

Im new to the game as well, but so far these are the things I have picked up for my G6:

first, i bought a G6 kit that came with some handy stuff

I have also purchased

A slightly better tripod

A flood light

Battery pack for said light

Variable ND Fader for filming out doors

Rode shotgun Mic

Zoom H1

Lav mic to go with the H1

Headphones to listen for levels

Triple Mount Hot Shoe

Backpack to hold everything

This is just a fun lens, and its cheap the 50mm means its a 100mm equivelent, so its for really tight portraits, but the low aperture is good for low/light and for a very shallow field depth. When I am able to use it, this lens produces the most popular results when i post them online.

new strap cause the one that comes with the G6 sucks!

What i want to get:

A bigger zoom lens I am mostly interested in videography(weddings etc), and this would be good for back of the house shots)

The M 3/4's "nifty fifty"

Two cheap options I’ve used-

This works great on my 5S iPhone but has started crackling with my 6S+ (it improved when I cleaned the headphone jack but wasn’t fully resolved). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018KIJGU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QpxOBb4NPFK0A

This is a pretty solid lapel mic that plugs straight into a phone; I like it and haven’t had any problems with it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019HQHXN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_trxOBbVNM9ATZ

Audacity is a free audio editing program where you can “teach” it the sound of the white noise and then remove that sound from the whole file. It’s more steps but if you want a free option it should at least improve the quality.

Hello dear saints of the audio world,

I go by the name of TheBirdReich (you can call me Bird) and I do a lot of broadcasting on Twitch. Recently, I've been looking into upgrading my audio setup from my USB Blue Yeti microphone to a XlR microphone. I have a lot of questions because the transitional phase from the plug and play usb mics to XLR mics is pretty hefty. My budget is for the new setup is about $500.

1. Dynamic or Condensor?
   
   For my application of "in home live audio streaming", which would be most applicable? (Disclaimer: I yell a lot)
   The mic I was intending on purchasing was the NT1-A. Link is here:
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QAUOKS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
   
   
2. Necessary equipment?
   
   a. Is it a good idea to purchase a preamp to supply the phantom power, and adjust audio before it reaches my computer? Is it necessary?
   This was the one I was looking at:
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LWH79A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A25IRTXJ3Y3DFH
   
   c. Will I need an audio interface to convert the line output of my microphone to a digital output to my computer no matter the type of mic I use? Do you have any budget friendly recommendations?
   
   Overall I'm really unsure about what to even purchase, mainly because of the lack of knowledge, and I don't want to end up spending more than I have to. I know the creed for audio engineers is to spend no more on equipment that meets their requirements. :) I greatly appreciate your input and the fact that you're taking time out your day to help!
   If you have recommendations on gear or items that you know would be good for my application I'd be happy to hear from you on them!
   
   Thanks ahead of time!

Why not use the screw? There's tons of clamps with 1/4"-20 thread that are meant to put lights and such onto various types of poles for film and such. I use them myself to mount my light houses onto vertical braces from harbor freight. (They have a smaller footprint than a light stand or tripod.)

Here's some examples of the ones I'm using.
Pedco 1.5 Ultra Clamp

This will grip even onto a very thin pole. For the record I mount them to these poles. Harbor Freight 2 in 1 Ratcheting Cargo Bar

Here's some other excellent multi purpose clamps but they need a ticker pole to mount.

Limostudios Super Clamp It's a clone of the more expensive manfrotto super clamp. They fit on the blue portion of the brace, not the thinner silver extended portion.

These clamps are pretty universal and you can get a number of different attachments for them. You could screw the lighthouse right on there but you couldn't really aim it without a ball mount or you could get an arm like this or this though that second one might wobble with the lighthouse motor. Arkon makes a good very sturdy clamp I've used to mount camcorders on for years though I've broken lots of the quick mounting plates over time. The arm is much stronger than the superclamp arm I showed earlier. There's also small clamps like this one

Also for the thread as someone else mentioned there are adapters. This is likely the adapter you need as that's the other common screw size you see. but I can't really know without seeing the tripod. Personally I prefer to use clamps and mount to poles anyhow, it gives you a lot of mounting options.

If I had to choose, Rode VideoMicPro but I wouldn't use either and get the Rode SmartLav+, it's way cheaper and sounds better than either of these, plus it's a portable solution.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EO4A7L0/

The best beginner audio advice is the closer you are to your mic, the better you'll sound, that's why movies use boom mic setups (which is the best way to use the Rode VideoMicPro, just overhead, as close as possible). Used traditionally, the VideoMicPro will pick up echos from the wall behind you, boom'd it will be much better.

As I suspected, your VO mic is a condenser. Treat your room and see if you get better results. If not, I’d go with a cardioid microphone. I use a Behringer xm8500 which you can find on Amazon for $20-30 depending on who’s selling it and if it includes an XLR cable. I also use a dedicated USB audio interface vs having one built into the mic. I started out with the Behringer UM2 which ran about $60 on Amazon. I’ve since upgraded to a Focusrite Scarlet 2i2 because it has some nice features I was after since I’d gotten more into the podcast. It ran about $110 as I recall. Yes, you’ll have separate components, but you’ll get a better overall sound and it’ll let you mix and match with different microphones for different occasions without having to worry if the mic can plug into your computer directly.


I don’t have any experience with the Rode type setup, but if you’re using the 3.5mm cord to plug straight into the iPhone, I don’t see why it would be poor quality. It almost sounded like the iPhone was using its onboard microphone instead of the external one. I imagine you’re using a Lightning-to-3.5mm headphone jack adapter, yes? What I’d check for is if that 3.5mm audio cord coming off the Rode receiver unit has 3 “rings” on it. Look at a set of headphones that have an inline mic. You’ll see on the plug there’s 3 rings. There’s 3 contact areas inside the jack - right audio, left audio, microphone audio. If that jack doesn’t have 3, it may not be making proper contact inside the plug and telling the iPhone “hey I’ve got an external mic here!” Hope that makes sense.

The picture of this lavalier mic has the kind of jack I’m talking about: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EO4A7L0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_mG91DbNKN5GEE

Hope that helps!

> Would prefer something with a standard battery, but a rechargable is just fine.

You are in luck, "standard" batteries are already rechargeable. Here are some rechargeable AAs and a charger.

And here are AA powered lights that aren't black. The Klarus Mi7 is a popular option. The Olight S2A even glows in the dark.

Are you sure you don't want a headlamp too? Most of those activities mentioned would be better served with both hands free.

Let me trow my two cents into the ring.

When you say HQ video I assume you mean 1080p. That can be had much cheaper and that at good quality. More than good enough for a studio setting and interview work.

This is a good perspective by Casey Neistat on gear you need:
https://youtu.be/nLSUrTxquyE

With that being said, what most people forget is that lighting, the audio, knowing how to setup and just a little prep that can make all the difference.

In all honesty you could just buy this:

• CANON VIXIA R500
  
  
• Photo Studio Lighting Kit-3
  
  
• Rode Videomic
  
  
• Zoom H2n
  
  
• RODE invisiLav
  
  Now you are at $790.96. Bottom of your budget. Now make improvements on your kit. Maybe get a whole different camera, get another light, or additional Zoom Audio recorders. The H1 is my backup to a H4.
  
  Buying a high end camera is no guarantee that you get good video if all other factors are not right!
  
  Most important are the people that will do the interview. Do yourself a favor and broswe some youtube videos like these:
  
  https://youtu.be/LWpwgDqSkQw
  
  https://youtu.be/E26xv-bZfUU
  
  
  Best of luck!

These Lav's are great especially since you don't need to buy a recorder to go with them if your actors have iPhones.

I recommend a lens with Image Stability or a shoulder rig. The Office is shot handheld, but unless there's some stability, your footage will come out looking like Cloverfield.

Practice your whip zooms and focus pulls. Study the script. Look for the comedic moments and find how they can be complimented with clever cinematography.

Good luck!

Going to repeat my suggested setup in this thread.

Components:

Samsung Galaxy S8 - its just hands down the best video and streaming phone out there atm. Not the S8+ - bigger screen - more heavy - less battery life.

A Samsung Protective Case with a lens kit. The benefit is, when needed, you can attach a wide angle lens to capture bigger groups and environments. For a IRL stream a good thing.

DJI Omni Mobile Gimbal - offers the benefits of enhanced controls and a stable picture during walking and stuff.

RØDE VideoMic Me+Windshield - An external microphone that would enhance the audio depending on where you are pointing it too, as it is a directional mic.

A pack of fast charging, low cost battery packs to power the equipment during the day with a backup for loading during while the others are being used. Depending on usage between 4-8.

A pair of 90° degree flat usb-c cables. You want that cause using the gimbal, you wanna make sure the phone is as centered as possible and a bunch of those custom made cables assures that. Shouldn't be too hard to find a cable guy to set that up, as the items are purchasable on alibaba.

You can see the gimbal in action under the following link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPTwtGZoK8Q
Note: It is an S8+ - performance of the gimbal will be better with the smaller S8!

Rode Microphone Soundcheck outside:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7OIUC6Y2-o&t=319s

S7 Lens video(s8 is ~the same):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9wWvMdbkZk

PowerPack review:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-I6AVQW-abI

I hope that offers some ideas how the setup could look like without having to carry around a backpack with a car sized battery and a gazillion of wires.

Not a super cheap alternative but I they look great and range f on 6-12 feet.

Impact Deluxe Varipole Support System - Black (Pair)

http://www.amazon.com/Impact-Deluxe-Varipole-Support-System/dp/B008OM1FZU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00


SUPON New Camera Super Clamp Tripod for Holding LCD Monitor/DSLR Cam

http://www.amazon.com/SUPON-Camera-Tripod-Holding-Monitor/dp/B00PICAE4C?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01
$200 bucks is certainly pricy but these look great and should be very versatile.

> I screwed up the settings by accident, but it's not that bad.

Here's an honest critique, not to be mean, but you seem to have an interest in taking good photos. I started on a Canon 60D, which shares the same image sensor as the T4i. All of my images of Cleveland were shot with that camera.

This picture has two/three things technically wrong with it; focus, blur, and grain. You can solve all three of those issues by shooting on a tripod.

Shooting on a tripod will allow you to take longer exposure than if you were shooting handheld (because it doesn't move). Because you can shoot longer, you can also stop your aperture down a bit. Most lenses are sharper when the aperture is slightly closed a bit (around f/5.6 - f/8, but vary's depending on lens). You will also be able to lower your iso, which will help avoid noise/grain issues.

Also, when shooting longer exposures, its best to avoid any camera movement or interaction at all. You can buy a "remote shutter release" to avoid touching the shutter button. Also, use "mirror lockup", to avoid movement from the mirror swinging when a picture is taken.

I encourage you to read how to take clear nighttime image, find a solid tripod, and attempt to retake the picture. Part of the fun of photography is growing in your skill and this is a great opportunity to do so.

No worries; I saw your replies come in over notifications and noticed the same thing. I checked with the mods, and we think it's just some weirdness with Reddit, since it looks like they're having some errors right now.

You are correct that I would not suggest running 4 IFRs.

The voltages you found are nominal voltages at rest; under load, the voltages will drop, especially when the motors overdraw the motors as much as with Alkalines and their measly 500 mA current capabilities. NiMH cells are much more capable while still being far more stable than 14500 (AA-sized) li-ion cells like the Coolooks, so their voltage while the motors are spun up should be higher than Alkaline cells. For example, Eneloops are capable of providing 10 A, though they are on the top end of the spectrum of NiMH cells.

​

To your other question about AA-sized cells to safely hit 85 fps, that's not possible without modification. With NiMH cells like Eneloops and a rewire to remove most of the highly resistive components, you might hit 85 fps with a Rayvenfire (white) or Elite (Blue) Rayven. I'm less certain about the original (green) or Stinger (yellow) Rayvens since they were build for the N-strike range, which had much lower fps than the Elite line.

On Eneloops alone, I'd expect a 5-10 fps boost, and an another 5-10 fps from a rewire.

Eneloops are generally considered the best NiMH cells based on a number of tests as well as general availability. You can get them on Amazon for pretty cheap, or you can also pick up rewrapped cells (the same internal cell with a different label) like the AmazonBasics rechargeable batteries or the Ikea Ladda batteries.

​

My concern is less for the motors heating up and more for the batteries and battery contacts heating up. The fps numbers you recorded seem to support* that something isn't quite right. A stock Rayven on an 11.1 V 3S lipo should hit 105-110 fps pretty consistently. 4 Coolooks form an effective 12.8 V 4S pack; with a 1.7 V nominal increase over the lipo, I would expect higher fps, not a median 10-15 fps lower. That said, if the circuit is highly resistive (bleeding voltage to heat) and the cells are overdrawn and sagging, that would explain lost fps.

​

​

* FPS readings do have some variance Chrono to Chrono, so it's not perfect.

I know using 18650s is trendy (and pretty easy if you use an amp board from Parts Express, they sell battery holders that plug right into the boards) but I’ve been a big fan of using a removable battery pack (with its own safety circuit), like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RNnoDbP0KDB6R


I built a mid sized boombox using these: https://reddit.com/r/diysound/comments/7ph3ck/update_pelican_550_budget_audiophile_boombox/

Using this type of battery makes it easy to swap batteries instead of recharging them inside the unit (I use industrial velcro to keep them secure inside the boombox), and like I said, they already have safety circuits. I like to put an externally visible volt meter on the power switch circuit so you can know how charged your battery is too.

One limitation is you’ll be limited by the amperage of the safety circuitry on the battery configuration you choose. With 18650s you can get a lot more wattage depending on how you configure them, with the battery I suggested you’re limited to 3 amps at 12 volts, so 3 x 12 = 36w total

What is your price range? Does size of the scope matter? Do you want tracking abilities?

Some good brands would be Orion, Meade, and Celestron.

Astronomy is not necessarily about getting the best and most expensive scope. The telescope is only a tool. You need to have realistic expectations on what you're going to see. Also, you want a telescope that you will be able to use. If its too big and clunky to bring outside easily, a smaller telescope will be much more useful.

I would recommend buying a simple reflector to start off.

Here's a cheap, tabletop reflector.
Very affordable, very portable. I wouldn't go any cheaper than this.

Although, depending on how much you want to spend, you can get This tracking dobsonian. 600 bucks, 8 inch. Could be what you're looking for.

I would just hop on the bandwagon and get a classic XT8.

You also need to do some research on what kinds of eyepieces you want. Thats a whole new world you need to know, on top of getting to know telescopes.

Personally I have a classic XT8 accompanied with a Celestron 8-24mm zoom eyepiece.

After all thats done, go grab some free astronomy software, and once thats done, start exploring the skies!!!

Ah, okay.

Sorry, the type of video production I am most familiar with is the kind for short film production, music videos, weddings, things of that nature. So I don't feel 100% comfortable trying to give advice on things of this nature. Just from a quick glance though it looks like the adapter to connect an external microphone to your GoPro is $49.00 just by itself.

That leaves about $51 on your maximum budget, which rules out my preferred style of handheld camera microphone, the shotgun mic. If you already have the adapter and therefore don't need to spend the $49 I'd heavily recommend Rode products, specifically for your needs the Videomic Go.

There is this inexpensive shotgun mic bundle that I found on Amazon, but I don't have the experience with this product like I do with Rode products to speak to it's quality. It does record in mono sound, but you can duplicate the audio track in your editing program to simulate stereo. For a quick and cheap setup you can get the adapter and this shotgun mic and that will still be better than audio straight out of the GoPro.

The reason I prefer shotgun mics to lavalier mics is that you have the ability to capture sounds other than yourself if you so desire to, but also lavalier mics have a habit of being obscured by clothing and being affected heavily by wind. I'd hate for you to record a vlog only to realize your sweatshirt had been over your microphone for the better part of the day and now you have no useable audio.

But if you are set on the idea of a lavalier mic then your best bet for the GoPro would be this kit I found on Amazon. You don't need an adapter because it's meant for the GoPro, and it comes with a windscreen which will reduce your wind interference. And at the price this honestly might be your best entry-level audio option for that camera set up to add some production value to a vlog.

your audio is not that bad actually. yeah it can be better but ive done worse lol My audio is finally on point now.

wait ...is that why you have the ear bud in....thats your mic? I bought a great boom mic. I have a lav too if im in a crazy area or dealing with a lot of outside noise.

i like your content i like how you have clips of the actual movie. I wanted to do something with movies but Idk how to get the movie without buying it. blaaaah. i aint tryna steal it. lol

some ppl would be put off by the swearing. Im not but i get that complaint too in my vids.

your thumbnails- good that your face is in them. make your letters bigger. use the space wisely. easy to see and highly recognizable ya know.

boom i use. not too expensive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015R0IQGW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For what you're describing, the video camera sounds like it would be sufficient.

Rode's are OK, but I think they're a bit overpriced and not all that awesome for the price. For the money, Takstar makes a widely-touted knockoff that many people feel sounds better. It sells for about $25. Link here: https://www.amazon.com/TAKSTAR-SGC-598-Interview-Microphone-Camcorder/dp/B00E58AA0I/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537758700&sr=1-5&keywords=video+microphone

You also might consider a wired lavaliere mic. There are several on Amazon from about $20-30. I always have a few as backups and frequently use them as primaries, too. Here's one that's pretty highly rated: https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Omnidirectional-Recording-Conference/dp/B01AG56HYQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537758700&sr=1-6&keywords=video+microphone

Best of luck!

​

Absolutely. I started with a Neewer stabilizer, I've yet to invest in a motorized gimbal myself, as those go for upwards of $600 for a decent one. For short docs I find myself using a shoulder rig the most, and for a shoulder rig I started with the Neewer brand as well. This brand was my best friend starting out lol. The stabilizer/glidecam will take a tinsy bit of practice but this particular one has served me very well personally. YouTube search the gear you're eyeballin, see what others say, and you'll surely make the best choice suited for you. Cheers!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NJKJ1IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0tLLzbKA1ZE19

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GTMBA7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IzLLzbHH9G1YM

SECTION | CONTENT

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Title | G85 vs A6500 - Best option for film making? Max Talks EP#4
Description | Which camera is the right fit for you? Filmmaking, Vlogging, and Videography G85 Amazon➡ http://geni.us/jEyA76A A6500 Amazon➡ http://geni.us/bffB4nA If you enjoy our content please consider supporting us on Patreon. Even $2 a month helps us make more and better content for you! https://www.patreon.com/MaxYuryev -------------------------------------------------------------------- This Review was Shot using: Camera on Amazon➡ http://geni.us/bffB4nA Lens on Amazon➡ http://geni.us/dmcMpa Mic on...
Length | 0:10:14


SECTION | CONTENT

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Title | Panasonic G85 OWNS the Sony a6500 in almost every way...except one
Description | This is just a quick update after shooting my first ever video on the Sony a6500 since deciding to try and switch to it from my Panasonic G85/G7/GH4. I'll just keep walking you guys through what I'm learning as it happens if that's cool with you! New Sony camera & lens: http://amzn.to/2owhmEU Must-have other lens for new camera: http://amzn.to/2pJlBiv Mic I use on my vlogging rig: http://amzn.to/2oQcvBU My bendy-tripod: http://amzn.to/2pkAJ8R Old main Panasonic camera: http://amzn.to/2pJl5AU F...
Length | 0:07:41






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> Videography is basically just photography squared when it comes to equipment costs.

Good to know. The more I'm learning the more the SL2 seems like the right choice, at least for a beginner like myself.

> Also happen to be friends with a few cinematographers / video geeks.

That's cool. I either forgot or was never aware of how popular photography and videography are as hobbies.

Any recommendations on a DSLR microphone? I'd like to keep it under $100, but I'd be willing to spend up to $150 if necessary. I was thinking of just getting something like this that sits on the top of the camera. That way my setup is super easy to just film and go, and I could also do some vlog style videos if I wanted.

I have a Movo VXR40. It might not be ideal due to the long wire and the fact that the shoe mount needs to be epoxied for better stability, but I've found it to be quite useful. I have a boom stand and I ended up using it with my Zoom H4n and boom instead of on my camera shoe.

Rode is a well-respected brand, but they are pricey and you can get better on-camera mics for less money, albeit at a visual aesthetic penalty (but let's be honest: who cares what your mic looks like?) The "affordable" Rode mics get lackluster reviews and are not very good; I'd buy nothing lower than the VideoMic Pro due to various issues I've read and listened to in comparison tests.

If I wanted an on-camera mic on the cheap today, I'd go with the ~$30 Takstar SGC-598 as can be heard compared against two cheaper Rode mics in this video where it gives the Rode mics a run for their money.

Two caveats: on-camera audio sucks, even with a good mic; you'll get better audio if a mic on a boom stand is an option; also, the G7 heavily compresses audio to 128 Kbps AAC which is not suitable for a significant amount of post-processing, but is perfectly fine for personal recordings or pro stuff where inaudible losses of quality won't be pushed enough to be heard.

For audio, the key thing is that you want the microphone as close to the actors as you can get. Starting with a shotgun mic and a boom pole will probably be your best bet unless you have the cash to splurge on wireless lavs. Rode and Sennheiser are always a good bet, but even a cheaper option like this Audio Technica mic will be way better than anything built into the camera.

For a camera, you'll want something that allows you to change focus/aperture manually. That's really the key to getting dynamic shots, where you can set focus for foreground/mid/background objects to keep things interesting. Depending on your budget, if you can afford a DSLR still camera that is capable of recording HD video you will get a lot more mileage out of it than a cheap handycam. The Panasonic LX7 is a good bet for lots of manual control.

If these are beyond your budget for now, just shoot with whatever you can get your hands on, even the GoPro.

Hey there! Here's my suggestion if you're starting out and have a $600 budget.

• Mic: https://www.amazon.com/Rode-Anniversary-Condenser-Microphone-Package/dp/B002QAUOKS/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520276764&sr=1-1&keywords=rode+nt1a
  
  
• Interface/soundcard: https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Interface-Generation-Technical/dp/B01J9NDHXK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520276849&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=scarlett+2i2&psc=1
  
  That mic is a great one to start out with and I can personally vouch for its sound, whereas i cannot for the SE one you linked (not saying it's bad, just haven't tried it!)
  
  That soundcard is a hell of a deal, high quality, and *comes with a mic stand and XLR cable (and an extra pop filter) all bundled in.
  
  Total price for all of this: $390
  
  You can grab a reflection shield and still be at $450 total (https://www.amazon.com/LyxPro-VRI-30-Portable-Absorbing-Recording/dp/B012OFI98I/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520277017&sr=1-2&keywords=reflection+shield)
  
  Important: Please note, while it will help, a reflection shield alone is not enough to tame the echoes in a hardwood room with a lot of reverb. If AT ALL possible, the absolutely best thing you can do (if I had to choose between reflection shield vs. doing this, I would do this every time) to improve the quality of the recording you'll get is to spend some of that remaining budget - remember we've got everything for $450 so far! - and buy cheap blankets from Ikea or similar. They have like their cheapest comforter/duvet blankets that are only like $4-5 each and cover a lot of space, if you use some command hooks (or nails/tacks, whatever your living space allows) to put these on the walls, put a cheap rug down on the floor, etc. to break up the flat surfaces, you'll be astounded by the difference.
  
  I did this to my studio room - again, using all cheap blanket materials and no expensive acoustic foam - and even random guests comment on how quiet it sounds when they're talking and walk in from the hallway and hear how much their voice changes.
  
  Here's a picture series (click the right arrow to go through them https://www.instagram.com/p/BWYSx2XFdi0/?taken-by=petravitamusic) from my studio after I'd set up the blankets, and for sound quality examples of the microphone, everything on my soundcloud within the last year has been recorded on the mic I linked, and recorded in this room. A couple examples: https://soundcloud.com/petravita/the-land-of-no-seconds-petravita-prod-syndrome-demoaday-67365 and another with no reverb added back in during the mix process so you can hear that the recording sounds very clean: https://soundcloud.com/petravita/the-science-of-art-petravita-prod
  
  I really hope this helps you, and please don't hesitate to reach out to me via PM or reply here if you have questions :)
  
  

Things you'll want:
This book: http://www.amazon.com/Turn-Left-Orion-Hundred-Telescope/dp/0521781906/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1324830331&sr=1-3

Teflon pads as it is likely the pads on your dob suck and will make moving it suck as well.

A high field of view set of optics. I recommend any of the following (I have an 8" dob, you want a good wide-angle eye piece as it makes viewing a pleasure. Magnification is far from all important, esp. with a small telescope).

• http://www.universityoptics.com/eyepieces.html
  
• http://www.optcorp.com/ProductList.aspx?uid=30-718-1044-1046 (Baader planetarium)
  
• When picking out eye pieces, consider the magnification you'll get with your telescope (equations found online), the eye relief (bigger tends to be easier to use, basically how far your eye needs to be from the lens to be in focus), and the field of view (just how much of the sky you'll see).
  
  You need to collomate your telescope. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collimated_light. Basically, your telescope's mirror is likely very off center. A dobsonian like what you have is two mirrors, the main mirror (the big one), and the little post mirror that reflects light off the main mirror into your eye piece. You need a laser collomator that will shine a light from the eye piece into the telescope. If your telescope was properly collomated, the laser would bounce off of the post mirror, hit the dead center of the main mirror, reflect back onto the post mirror, and back into the collomator. Look online for more information.
  
  Lastly, you probably want a Telrad. It makes pointing your telescope very, very simple, and almost eliminates the need to use a finder scope. http://www.amazon.com/Telrad-Finder-Sight/dp/B0000ALKAN (you don't need any accessories for this. Its wonderful).
  
  Happy stargazing!
  
  Edit: feel the need to qualify why I suggest Teflon pads. your telescope moves around on two axises, up and down, and left and right. Unlike a "conventional" refractor telescope (the ones that we think of as a good "my first telescope"), a lot of weight is placed on those bottom pads. If you replace the pads that came with your telescope's base with teflon pads, it will make it a lot easier to move it along that particular axis, asthere is less friction.

Just grab some lav's

[This Rode smartLav is great] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EO4A7L0/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mic-reviews-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00EO4A7L0&linkId=4ccaf6812920138f74d980411d5a90a8)

[This ATR-3350] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATR-3350-Omnidirectional-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B002HJ9PTO)

[If you can stretch for $800 bucks this will be excellent] (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/618735-REG/Sennheiser_EW_100_ENG_G3_A_Evolution_G3_100_Series.html)

[This BOYA mic is great and inexpensive] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MRMU2HU/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00MRMU2HU&linkCode=as2&tag=pv0dbb-20&linkId=UZT4YZXUAJ7VKBG6)

Basically watch this video and decide what you think is best for your application.

Keep in mind, for a condenser mic you need a sound treated room for the best quality audio.

But yeah, there are FAR better mics out there.

[This is a great setup] (https://www.twitch.tv/videos/140197666)

I couldn't agree more with /u/SativaGanesh 's comment below. I'll add that when you start learning to record, your focus should be on signal flow, gain staging, microphone technique, and learning how to edit and mix audio. Until you have a handle on the basics, a tape machine won't be beneficial to you. And when you DO have a handle on the basics, consider getting an internship at an analogue studio. If you're sharp and likeable, you'll probably have an opportunity to learn how to use a tape machine and console.

Here's what I suggest for your home setup. You can get a perfectly usable interface for around $150. That apparently comes with Pro Tools, but Reaper is a full-featured DAW that sounds great and supports most plugin formats out there. It's $60 for a full license. Here is a perfectly adequate microphone made by Rode. (Or if you can spend $600 go for the K2, it's awesome.) These speakers are halfway decent and will get you started on the right foot.

Scrubbing through the video I noticed that the camera auto exposes the shot to compensate for the backlit shelves so the fix for that would be to shoot with auto-exposing off or just shoot in manual since you’re staying the same distance away from the camera. That would fix the irregular lighting but it wouldn’t fix the lighting. To fix the lighting you could get an LED light rack that you could attach to your camera’s hot shoe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075N4CJYX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vlZKAbKWY98MZ
This would help you get more light on your face, acting as a fill light and would make a big difference in clearing out the shadows. Audio is more of a get what you pay for kinda thing. I really like the Rode SmartLav + which you can connect to your smartphone and with the Rode app you can record some pretty quality audio that is comparable to 300+ dollar lavs. Shotguns are good too but I typically use both to help match the audio on each recording devices. The smartlav is a great piece of equipment for only $75 and it doesn’t get much better than that and would completely take away the whirs and and sound annoyances. Here’s the link to the Lav: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EO4A7L0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7pZKAb2BFD9BK