No problem. :)

Ok, so flash is pretty easy. My setup might be a bit outdated, but here is what I use currently:

• Flashes
  
• Transceivers
  
• Controller
  
  I have 3 of those flashes, they're really pretty great if you aren't too snobby about brands. I believe Yongnuo has flashes now with the transmitter built into them, but I have never used those and the only time I've seen them in action it didn't go super well. I'm sure they're fine, I just can't recommend them.
  
  So basically you put the controller on your camera. You put each flash you want to use off camera on the transceivers. The controller lets you adjust each flash's settings remotely and triggers them. It's awesome.
  
  If you generally don't know what you're doing with flash for the reception, it's generally best to bounce the light off the ceiling. Point the flashes roughly upward and fire away. At receptions with a defined dance floor you can get pretty great results by placing them in a couple of the corners. Your light might come back kinda yellow. If you don't want to worry about using gels on your flashes then just keep an eye out for it and adjust the white balance in Lightroom after the fact.
  
  Aside from flashes you will want some modifiers to place on them. When I was starting out the two that I used are these (these aren't the exact ones, but they're close):
  
  
• Flashbender
  
  
• Baby Softbox
  
  So there are probably better modifiers to use, but these are cheap and they work pretty well at diffusing/directing light. The softbox is great for portraits and I frequently would use the flash bender to direct light gently over a wide area, like when the toasts are going on or the bridal party is entering the room or the dance floor. When used correctly you should get pretty great lighting and avoid hard shadows.
  
  Anyways, how I shot those photos. You're generally right. I love shots like that (probably too much), and so I do them all the time. The general idea is the same for all of them, soft light in front and a bright light in the back. Using the specific equipment I listed above, my usual MO is to put a bare flash behind them, typically on the ground (using these)or on a stand as low as possible to the ground. Point it at the couple and slightly upward (photo 1 is the exception, it was pointed essentially straight up to make the gazebo light up like that).
  
  Set up a flash in front of them. In most of those photos I used the flashbender modifier on the flash pointing at the couple to direct but diffuse the light. It helps it look a bit more natural. Generally you want to position it in a way that the shadows aren't too distracting, so do it slightly off to the side to get more natural lighting. Obviously I messed up in a few of mine but it is what it is and most people don't even notice. We're always our own harshest critic.
  
  Next is the settings. This is honestly the toughest part in my opinion. You need to expose for the background you want and then use the flashes to achieve the lighting you want on the subjects. I don't know how to describe this, but the easiest way is with photo #6 on my website. I exposed the photo for the city behind the couple and got the look I wanted, THEN I added flashes and whatnot. General rule of thumb is the light behind the couple should be one step brighter than the light in front. That way you get the glowing backlight effect.
  
  Thanks for the compliments on the photos! I hope this helps. I'm sorry if I did a bad job of explaining things, just ask me to clarify anything you don't understand.
  
  EDIT: All this being said you don't NEED off camera flash. I've shot entire receptions using on-camera flash. The most important thing to remember is you just want to diffuse the light in some way. When you're using flash on camera you typically achieve this by bouncing it at the ceiling. Practice this at home, it usually works pretty well!
  

> im not filming full length films but short scenes and sketches.

You've gotten some good advice here, but it sounds like you already have a camera and want to upgrade to something that will give you better image quality and will last for a few years?

If so, here are the two best video capable cameras in your price range (in my view) [Referral Links]:

1. The [<$800 Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CWLSHUK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00CWLSHUK&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and
   
   
2. The [similarly priced Panasonic GH3] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009B0WREM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009B0WREM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).
   
   I own both of these cameras, and both produce awesome video images - but each has its advantages and disadvantages.
   
   If you really want to learn cinematography - and you don't need a still camera, I recommend the Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera. It is the least expensive interchangeable lens camera you can buy that records to RAW or 10-bit ProRes with 13+ stops of dynamic range - straight out of the box. Like Pro cinema cameras, it sets the shutter in degrees rather than fractions of a second and has a built-in headphone jack so you can monitor your audio track (only one other interchangeable lens camera below $1000 has a built-in headphone jack - the Panasonic GH3).
   
   With a [$10 cold shoe] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJFBUCQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00HJFBUCQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), a [$24 pistol grip w trigger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=221603818145&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg), a [$159 LCD viewfinder] (http://www.adorama.com/LCDVFBM.html?KBID=66297), a [$70 external battery adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LPJ1FJ0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00LPJ1FJ0&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), a couple of [$10 batteries] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and a [$17.50 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=321347920244&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) [Referral Links] - you'll have the best cinema camera in its class.
   
   Here's what my setup looks like, ready to shoot: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f3hbYYV_y8o/VHDp77GMxoI/AAAAAAAAJF8/xnHRvNcCm5o/w724-h543-no/P1020575.JPG
   
   Here is what this little powerhouse cinema camera can do:
   
   Narrative
   
   http://vimeo.com/89563847
   
   http://vimeo.com/94798326
   
   http://vimeo.com/101576471
   
   Documentary
   
   http://vimeo.com/83284391
   
   Music Video
   
   http://vimeo.com/88103618
   
   Travel/Low Light
   
   http://vimeo.com/79531723
   
   There are lots more examples in the [Pocket Cinema Camera group] (https://vimeo.com/groups/pocketcamera) I moderate over on Vimeo.
   
   Although it has a steeper learning curve than a consumer camera, and color grading in post is pretty much mandatory - this is absolutely the best filmmakers' camera in this price range.
   
   Second choice:
   
   If you want something that is a little easier to use, the GH3 might be a better choice. With its built-in electronic viewfinder that continues to work while you're shooting video, 1080/60p frame rate for slow motion, up to 72mbps recording and all metal splash resistant body - this is a great video/still camera for the price.
   
   Here is what the GH3 can do:
   
   Narrative
   
   http://vimeo.com/49420579
   
   http://vimeo.com/59543338
   
   Music Video
   
   http://vimeo.com/53834993
   
   http://vimeo.com/96861718
   
   Documentary
   
   http://vimeo.com/66940018
   
   http://vimeo.com/54076272
   
   There are many more examples on Andrew Reid's GH3 channel over on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/groups/gh3
   
   And, unlike the BMPCC, it can produce still photography results like these: https://www.flickr.com/groups/gh3/pool/
   
   Hope this is helpful and good luck with your filmmaking career!

One of the cool things about lighting is that you can create light with a variety of different things, so you can really play to your budget really well. As others have recommended, if she's serious about learning to light, tell her to check out Strobist, read his tutorials, buy his DVDs, the like. She'll learn a ton and David Hobby is a great writer. His blog is awesome, too.

As for a basic setup, she'll need some sort of light source, a diffuser (or light modifier or some sort), and some way of triggering that light if it's a strobe. That's the very basic setup. Fortunately for her, she can do this for $10, $20, $50, $100, or $1000. Whatever she (you) are willing to spend on it.

If she's trying to do it on the cheap, she can grab a lamp from Ikea (match the type of the bulb with the type of lighting the food will be in. If she's in a kitchen with flurorescent lighting, get a fluroescent lamp), a work light in a clamp, etc, some paper (try tracing paper or wax paper as it's more translucent), and some tape. Stretch the paper out so that it covers a nice area, tape it up to some boxes or something so it stands, and shine the light through it so it's nice and evenly lit. The only thing that affects the "softness" of light is the size of the light source, so the paper is useful for spreading out the focus of the bulb in your lamp and giving you a nice big source. Be creative, move the lamps around, try layering on the paper or removing the paper. Just play with it and see what works. She'll probably need a tripod and a slower shutter speed though, since these lights aren't incredibly bright. Here's another idea using the same equipment for inspiration.

Moving up in the budget, she can start to explore the world of flash photography, and start playing with strobes. These cheap YongNuo Flashes (and there are other models that are great, too) are surprisingly good, reliable, and cheap! I own a few and use them all the time. They come with stands, but she could tape them up around for better angles. Just one of these off camera, or angled properly can make her photoghraphy stunning. Start by placing them off to the side, aimed at the food, and triggering them with the on-camera flash and the strobes set to "optical slave" mode. Tell her to turn down the on-camera flash power to very low as to not give the food a bland look, and just use it to trigger the off-camera flash. Exposure here gets a little more tricky, without going on a huge rant (I could if you want, just let me know), but she should be able to figure it out. Start on low power, and dial it in more and more until she gets the look she's going for. Then, start experimenting and playing more! Use that same paper as before for a quick and dirty diffuser, or, if you want even bigger, softer, light for free, crank the power and shoot it onto the ceiling. The reflection will give her a great, even light source that compliments nearly everything nicely. Play with the built-in diffuser too, bouncing off different things, etc. Shoot, see what works, have fun, and learn. There's a lot to learn, and she'll learn best by just throwing things at the wall and seeing what sticks. Just make sure she's having fun and not stressing too much! If she needs more help, just throw me a question, google around, or post to this forum. Someone will be able to help.

From there, she can keep expanding upwards. More flashes, umbrellas, light stands (make sure she has all the necessary hot-shoe adapters, or umbrella mounts she might need), snoots, grid spots, and other sort of modifiers she might want to get the look she's going for. Worth noting that most things here can be made with some creativity and some crafty DIY work.

Oh, I'd also urge she get a set (or two) of gels for her lights, mainly the CTO (colour temperature orange) and CTG (colour temperature blue) so she can match the colour of her lights to whatever the ambient light is.

Hopefully this helps. If you have any questions or need more help, just let me know. :)

>Hey guys! Looking for some advice. Recently got asked to shoot some professional style headshots for a friend and need a crash course in flash photography!

Strobist, Lighting 101. [but not really; if this is TL;DR time, skip down to the bolded text].

>I was gifted a free Nikon SB600,

Damn. Would've been nicer if it'd been an older SB-26 or SB-700. Those have "dumb" optical slave mode (SU-4) built-in.

>... I'm going to want an off-camera remote flash for headshots. Do any of you know if I can achieve that with the SB600?

You can, but all your Fuji camera's hotshoe can tell the SB-600 to do is fire. You'll have to put the SB-600 in M mode, and dial in any changes you want on the back of the flash. But you can use really cheap radio triggers to do this, like the Yongnuo RF-603 II transceivers. A transceiver is a unit that can be either transmitter of receiver in the system.

You put the transmitter on the camera hotshoe to act as "master" and you attach a receiver to the foot (or cable it to the sync port) of the flash to act as off-camera "slave."

You'll also want to get some way to hold the light where you want it, and a way to attach some kind of diffuser/modifier (softbox or umbrella) to make the shadows softer and more flattering, particularly if your subject is female.

This Strobist page in the course shows the basics of putting together a lightstand, umbrella swivel, and umbrella. But, it's assuming you're using a flash without built-in radio triggering (i.e., you have to attach a radio receiver to its foot). Also, instead of an umbrella swivel, you could consider using a bracket. The bracket is bigger and bulkier (especially vs. a compact swivel), but lets you attach studio-strobe modifiers (softboxes, octas, etc.) by the mount ring (in that link, a Bowens S type mount), not just umbrellas.

>Has anyone used the Godox 350FF? It seems to be the highest recommended Flash for off Camera Flash,

Actually, the Godox TT350 is a mini speedlight and is best for on-camera use with a mirrorless camera. But it's underpowered in comparison with a regular speedlight because it only uses 2AA batteries vs. 4xAAs or being plugged into an AC outlet. The reason it gets recommended is it's $85, it does TTL/HSS for Fuji bodies (well, the ones that do HSS, anyway). And you can use it as your radio transmitter, because it has a built-in transceiver.

But. A $110 TT685-F is twice as powerful (one more stop), and if you're using it off-camera, the bigger size/weight doesn't matter as much as if you have it mounted on the camera. There's also the $60 TT600, which doesn't do TTL or HSS on the camera hotshoe, but will do HSS as a radio slave if you use one of the Godox transmitters (e.g., Xpro-F, X2T-F, Flashpoint R2 PRo II-F.)

>how does it compare to the SB600 if you've used both?

I haven't used an SB600, but I have used a 430EX; the Canon counterpart, on my Canon dSLRs. And I've used a TT350-O on my Panasonic GX7. (I have a TT685F for my X100T).

The SB600 will be bigger/heavier, but more slightly powerful. It has a better build quality. But it shares one weaknesses with the TT350: the head only swivels 270º. If you're a Nikon shooter, it has a lot of advantages, but as a Fuji shooter, you can't use any of its TTL/HSS or wireless CLS capabilities. The TT350-F will let you use TTL/HSS and it has radio triggering built-in and the S1/S2 "dumb" optical slave modes (i.e., you can trigger the flash off-camera with any simple flash burst), neither of which the SB-600 has.

>I've also been reading that diffusing the flash is important... I was recommended to get something called the "A Better Bounce Card" to help diffuse it. Anyone use this before? Or have a better alternative

Umbrella is a lot better than the attach-to-a-speedlight "modifiers". You really want something at least 2'-3' across.

The softer shadows with diffusion only come when a light source is relatively large in comparison with the subject. Small bounce cards, little tupperware hats, etc. aren't that much bigger. And don't tend to make the light look that much different from bare direct flash.

If you have to get an on-flash modifier, I recommend van Niekerk's BFT flag, and learning to bounce. Bouncing is where you point the head of the flash at a reflective surface (wall, ceiling, big piece of white foam core, someone's shirt front, etc.) And you use the reflected light as your illumination. The BFT flag will block any light coming directly from the head of the flash from hitting your subject, so the only light used is that reflected from the bounce surface. And that reflection has scattered the light to make it softer.

But the more power you have, the easier it is to do that, because the added distance and scattering of the light will reduce how much of it hits your subject. But the huge advantage with bounce, aside from the diffusion, is that unlike direct flash (where you point the head of the flash straight at your subject), you can choose the direction the light comes from (within the limits of how much the flash head can tilt and swivel).

Just me, but it might be easier to just start with a TT350-F or TT685-F and try bouncing, first, before going with off-camera flash. It'll be easier to figure out if all you have to buy and learn at first is the flash and a $1 sheet of black craft foam and a rubber band. Neil van Niekerk's Tangents website is a great place to learn how to use a flash on-camera, before you go hit the Strobist.

Get into the off-camera stuff when you have a bit more flash exposure and flash/ambient balance experience, can save up a bit more cash for the off-camera bits, and have a better handle on what you'll need.

Well, If filmmaking and video is your goal with these cameras I wouldn't recommend either.

If you're just starting and serious about video production here's a pretty effective starter kit that's just a tad over your $400 budget.

[Camera: Canon Vixia HF R400] (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-VIXIA-R400-Advanced-Camcorder/dp/B00AWZFJ22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395594961&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+vixia+hf+r400)
This is a decent starter camera. It's got a decent range of focal lengths, optical stabilization, microphone input, progressive frame-rates and most of all designed with video in mind. You'll need a SD Card

I noticed the cameras you picked resembles DSLRs but keep in mind that these in particular are not and with fixed lenses which defeats the purpose of having DSLR for video. Trust me, learn how to be effective with a camcorder first! Then, when your skill requires more artistic control you can upgrade.

Audio:
[Microphone:] (http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595673&sr=8-1&keywords=shotgun+microphone)
Having clean audio is probably the most important part filmmaking! The key is to get the mic as close to your subject as possible and away from your camera. You'll need a cable. If you need to mount it to your camera use this [bracket.] (http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Photography-Bracket-Standard-Mounts/dp/B005Z4ROIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595189&sr=8-1&keywords=flash+bracket) This bracket will also help keep the camera stabilized when you go handheld.

Keep in mind this won't deliver perfect audio but it will be a MASSIVE improvement to the on board microphone and learning how to record with decent audio in mind is your first step into becoming a pro.

[Lighting:] (http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-300-Clamp-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B007RKKEHA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595354&sr=8-17&keywords=can+lights)
Lighting is EXTREMELY important. A couple of these can lights will not only help with your image quality but put in you in the right direction for learning how to properly light your scene. You could start with daylight equivalent CFL bulbs.

[Tripod:] (http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-60-Inch-Lightweight-Tripod-Bag/dp/B005KP473Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595413&sr=8-3&keywords=tripod)
You NEED a tripod. This one is cheap and cheerful. Looping the ends of a couple rubber brands around the pan handle and the other end around your finger will help deliver some smoother pans!

Total: $425/£258

Some things to keep in mind:

• These are far from pro tools but if all used in conjuncture you can deliver a much more effective production than just merely using a camera on a tripod.
  
  
• Build a crew of friends. Although you can "one man band" it I don't recommend it because one of coolest things about film is that it's almost always a group effort towards an artistic goal!
  
  
• Most importantly, the equipment are just tools. They don't tell the story; you do! Your film/video is only as powerful as the story you want to tell!
  
  Best of luck to you!
  
  edit: formatting
  

> I know there are more professional tools than the ones I want to make myself but I really enjoy making them, and personalizing the main one, which is my camera.

> I just prefer a minimal size/always at your dispose light over the fastidiousnes of increase the weight of your camera and mounting/unmounting parts . As you can imagine I'm an amateur, looking professional is the least of my worries.

These are absolutely legitimate reasons to want to do this. My points don't apply.

> Your photos are great by the way, really , but what I'm looking for is to take pictures like this : https://www.flickr.com/photos/66469336@N02/23102037215/in/album-72157661350740135/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/66469336@N02/24396867472/in/album-72157661451662613/
> Which I recognize is not the most beautiful style for night pictures, but hey, it is mine.

On the contrary, your style is actually very attractive and serves a niche. Your photos don't come across as amateur; they have a very defined style and I actually like them quite a bit. I might personally expose the background slightly more, but otherwise I think what you're doing is great. It really captures a moment that's more than just grabbing shots of people smiling at the camera: you're catching people as they're having a good time, and they're involving the viewer in their moment.

Because of this, some of the traditional lighting rules simply don't apply. "Use a larger diffuser to soften the light", for example, is irrelevant of the light source also becomes part of the scene. The first photo you show actually has the phone present as a prop of the scene: your subjects are taking a selfie. The lighting in that scene makes perfect sense, and it works.

So, most of my advice about lighting in this context? Forget it. I'd still recommend against gluing something to your camera, but consider my hot shoe idea: buy some hot shoe caps (they're available in both plastic, and metal with a 1/4" threaded post), and then attach your light to those. You can use stronger adhesive so it won't fall apart while you're shooting, and you don't have to worry about removal later because they'll just pop off the hot shoe later. You might also consider using an external strobe but taking it off-camera. There are many ways to do this, but the cheapest is simply a flash shoe cord, which is available from your camera's manufacturer, or third-party for significantly less money.

However, if you're happy with the results of a tiny LED (and I think you have reason to be), I see no reason to change what you're doing. As a photographer, it's important to establish a "look". You've done that, and I see no reason to stray from it unless you want to experiment. It's clearly working for you. :-)

Yes, definitely! Lighting does not need to be crazy expensive unless you want it to be crazy expensive. (That 50 is going to be your best friend when you're starting, a fixed focal length gives you one less thing to worry about while you're fussing with lights. It's also a super sharp lens).

First, you're going to need a flash. Off-camera capabilities are ideal, and Canon has some amazing speedlites (that also come at an amazingly high price). I recommend this one. it's affordable, it has in-flash metering, and it comes with wireless capabilities. (your camera also has in-camera wireless flash triggering, but you need a flash that's compatible)

Next, a light modifier. bare flash is terrible for portraits, especially single-subject portrait work. What I personally would recommend (this is totally subjective), is a light stand with a shoot-through umbrella mount and a reflector. Umbrellas are cheap (I bought a ProMaster shoot-through umbrella for like $15 about a month ago, it works great), a light stand or two may run you about 40 bucks or so, and a bracket that fits your flash and umbrella on your stand is cheap (example ).

Reflectors can be found anywhere, Neewer makes generally cheap stuff (kinda crappy sometimes imo), but you don't need an expensive one. 20-30 bucks is good enough.

For the techniques and lighting methods you can do with a one-flash, one-reflector setup, a quick google search can give you some great ideas. However I recommend reading Strobist. Super good insight, some gear picks (that are more expensive), and some tried and true lighting methods to give you awesome results.

My biggest recommendation is to use the tried and true methods as a jumping-off point, and start playing around with your setup. You can do incredible things with one flash and one reflector, and while it can be intimidating at first, it can only get easier. Good luck!

Hi /u/sanityrepresent - I own the BMPCC , and with the right setup, it can be a good, inexpensive first camera. But first you have to fix the few things that make it a challenge to shoot with out of the box, e.g. the tight crop, the "iPhone-like" ergonomics, the dim LCD and the short battery life.

Crop

You absolutely need a wide angle lens to shoot indoors with this camera. I have an old Olympus 11-22mm f2.8-3.5 with a Panasonic DMC-MA1 adapter that gives me a full frame equivalent 32-63mm. But it was expensive. If I was starting again from scratch, and couldn't afford a Speed Booster, I would get a [used Nikon mount Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 for about $400] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2FLenses-%2F3323%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3Dtokina%2B11-16mm%2Bnikon%26rt%3Dnc%26LH_BIN%3D1) and an [inexpensive Nikon G to micro 4/3 adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TROEBM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003TROEBM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (this is the adapter I use for my Nikon lenses).

Ergonomics

Yes, you can buy or build a shoulder mount - but that can be expensive and/or time consuming. I built my own for less than $200 and I love it ([here] (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QW78g2jQbeU/U2mZ-aV32NI/AAAAAAAAIzg/E4d9v8aCmME/w963-h543-no/P1080600.JPG)'s a photo - I'll post the parts list if you like), but it turns out I don't use it much.

Instead, I use a [$24 pistol grip with a trigger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=221603818145&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) - just like my old Super 8 cameras from 40 years ago. With the right stance, it works great to keep the camera steady and is a lot less hassle than my rig.

You will also need a [$10 cold shoe] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJFBUCQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00HJFBUCQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) if you want to mount a mic, light or recorder on top of the camera.

LCD

It is very difficult to see the LCD outdoors (or even indoors, in a brightly lit room). The best solution for this problem is an LCD Viewfinder. I bought a Kinotehnik LCDVF BM ([$118 at B&H] (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1013082-REG/kinotehnik_lcdvfbm_blackmagic_pocket_2ea_mounting_plates_soft.html), [$159 at Adorama] (http://www.adorama.com/LCDVFBM.html?KBID=66297)).

With the pistol grip and the LCD Viewfinder, this camera becomes a joy rather than a pain to handle. Here is a pic of my setup: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f3hbYYV_y8o/VHDp77GMxoI/AAAAAAAAJF8/xnHRvNcCm5o/w724-h543-no/P1020575.JPG


Battery

I started out by buying a bunch of spare batteries, but that was unmanageable, so I am getting a [$70 belt clip adapter for my Sony camcorder batteries] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LPJ1FJ0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00LPJ1FJ0&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). If you don't have any of these batteries laying around, you can [buy them for $10] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). They have twice the capacity of Blackmagic batteries and cost less. I would get at least two of them plus a [$17.50 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=321347920244&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) (I have one of these for my Sony batteries and they work great).

With this setup, you will have an easy to shoot with, affordable, RAW/10-bit ProRes Super 16 camera with 13+ stops of dynamic range for about $1675 all in.

Good luck!

HCR

Yeah tripod is an idea, the good ones do cost quite a lot. I've just upgraded to a carbon fibre Manfrotto 190 that I'm happy with, but it cost me a bit over $400 AUD which kinda blows it out! The 055 is probably better for studio work, being bigger and sturdier, but I got mine for on the road.

A flash is a good idea. The more practice you get with the flash, the better - I'm still learning and so I can't really help you with the Yongnuo. I do know that a lot of people use them, and they're the go to off-brand alternative. I use a single 430exii, and looking to get a trigger. I hear that the Cowboy Studio wireless triggers work pretty well, looking to get some myself. Amazon Link. There are packs slightly more expensive (like $28) that come with more than one receiver. Good reviews, really cheap, though I don't have any experience myself. You must manually set the flash.

Anyway, off-camera flash is a good first step in making a pro product, and I imagine takes more practice than using different softboxes and whatnot. You could get him a pretty nice setup for $200 I think.

Here's a good link that someone else linked just today. Seems like a good guide, though note all the links have referral codes for that website in them, if it bothers you. Here

I agree with the Godox route. Buy the Flashpoint branded ones from Adorama as they come with a warranty. I had one stopped (partially my fault, continuous excessive use of HSS) working and Adorama replaced it, no questions asked. Make sure they have "R2" in the name as that denotes their compatibility with the XPro trigger (which is fantastic by the way).

I had eight of the Yongnuo 600's last August, only two of them are working now and there's no way to get a warranty on them.

The Flashpoint Li-on R2 TTL is the "flagship" speedlight. It has a huge lithium-ion battery that rated for 650 full power pops. They recycle super quickly and don't start misfiring when the battery starts running low. They're also easier to charge and keep track of compared to dozens of Eneloops. When I had the Yongnuos, I would have to replace the OCF's batteries once during the reception, and my main on camera flash about twice. Now I can go 2-3 full weddings on one battery, I never had to replace one during a shoot. These can be used on camera as a master, or as an optical/radio slave. They can also control larger monolights (like the very cool AD200/Evolv 200).

There's also a non TTL version of the same speedlight but still with the benefits of the lithium ion battery.

Start off your investment off right instead of buying sub par equipment just to replace them later.

I also recommend these speedlight mounts. The normal speedlight mounts with the umbrella holder are fine but they're not super secure and you're putting all your trust on the speedlight's feet - I've had plenty of lights break and fall off stands that way. These clamp on to a large surface area of the flash and will keep it safe, it's also very easy to tell if your speedlight is secured on. The front is a bowens mount so you can literally put any bowens mount modifier on it. And if you get a bigger light like an AD200 or an AD360, these fit beautifully on it.

I've never heard of the light stands you mentioned, but the Amazon reviews look good and plentiful so you should be fine.

I bought something similar to those light stands, but didn't like them....they "cut" into your roomscale zone, and they can not be as sturdy as you really want them to be (the lighthouses shouldn't move even the slightest bit).

I kept them for when i take my vive somewhere else and use as a portable solution. After some research, I use these now and love them...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F3B4YPS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and for actually holding the lighthouse onto the pole...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CSMCPKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

those are totally metal, and worth the slight extra price compared to plastic ones (but you could probably save a little money with the plastic ones).

those poles are great and easy to move too!

hope it helps, and you made the right choice w/ vive, it's the superior HMD by far.

The cheap video lighting kits are a bit under powered. They're useful for learning tools (mine came with 2 reflector umbrellas and 2 translucent umbrellas, but they're not 100% effective, and might end up bouncing light from around the room into your shot more than just from the surface of the umbrella. Additionally, one light behind one umbrella doesn't really overpower ambient window light the way I imagined it would. I was brand new to it so maybe they work well to fill in shadow, but i think a rig with multiple bulbs will be more effective at providing the controlled, directional light you may be looking for.

I ended up getting a pair of speedlight mounts to use them as off camera flash stands & modifiers which was fun; but since the umbrellas aren't huge, the height of the actual speed light is significantly off center so it's mainly the top half of the umbrella that's providing the most illumination. It's much better than a bare strobe, but I feel like it's not really using the full potential of the entire umbrella's surface to diffuse light. Something like this S-type bracket will hold a speedlight in the center of an octobox or another modifier, and that seems much more effective for strobe photography. It's not much more expensive, so it still pairs well with the light stands from the cheap video lighting kit as an upgrade.

Even as a not super effective intro kit, it's a decent baseline to get you shooting and practicing and figuring out what you'll need to find your shooting style. Kind of like how it's helpful to start with a kit lens before spending hundreds or thousands on a pro level camera/lens combo just to discover that I don't know shit about photography and expensive equipment is a budget overkill.

I just recently bought a thread adapter so I could use various filters on my 195. I think the 49mm one you linked to would the wrong size. The 180, 190 and 195 use a 45mm, but apparently it's also a finer thread than normal. The Heliopan ones are supposedly one of the few compatible adapters you can use. After seeing it recommended by others, I got this one: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/160285-REG/Heliopan_700222_45mm_49mm_Step_Up.html

I can confirm it fits both the 180 and 195 perfectly fine (though I tried to be gentle and not screw it in too tight). That LED ring light you linked to looks like it comes with a 49mm adapter already, but if you did want a 55mm thread, it looks like they do make a 45mm-55mm (hopefully it's designed the same way).

I'm pretty sure I have that same ring light for my DSLR, too. It works well for continuous lighting on macro shots, but I've never actually used the flash mode so I can't really comment on how powerful it is. The setup should work, but another option would be to just put a diffuser on a regular electronic flash like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Universal-Collapsible-Speedlight/dp/B01ERRQ802

Sure, it's pretty straight forward.


I used this L Bracket
to mount this
Gimbal. For lighting up my dark house/living room, this
LED Light works great. It's very bright.

To mount my old iPhone 4s as a monitor, I used a couple of these and a cheap iPhone case.

This produces very stable videos that turn out great for indoor parties, Christmas morning, etc. The WG gimbal mounts easily on my moutain bike or helmet as well, it's very flexible.

As av4rice said, this is going to be tough with only one light.

A shoot like this is typically done with 3-5 lights - key and fill on the subject, one to two lights blasting the background, and maybe a hair light behind the subject if you want to get fancy. That's the basic way to do it but there are endless variations - that's what makes good studio photographers great. If you have an iPad, check out Scott Kelby's Lighting Recipes app - it's free and shows a bunch of different lighting setups for different shots.

Are you looking to do more of this type of shoot in the future? Can you afford to buy or rent a bit of gear? I'd suggest at a minimum a cheap wireless trigger so you can fire your flash off-camera. I use the Cowboy Studio NPT-04 which is $22 on Amazon. The build quality is crappy and there's no TTL support, but they're way cheaper than Pocket Wizards or Radio Poppers and work just fine. I use mine with both small battery powered strobes and studio strobes. This will at least allow you to move your flash off camera for a decent key light. If you don't have a second light, a reflector (or piece of foam board) can function as a reflector for some fill.

Keep in mind this is all part of the creativity of shooting - you can probably get decent results with the flash on camera and bounced toward the subject, but most great portrait shots you might look at for inspiration will have been shot with off-camera lighting. Fashion photography tends to lean towards straight on lighting above and/or below the camera. Other types of portraits go for more depth (shadows) with the key light to one side. Look at the eye catchlights in photos you'd like to emulate to figure out how they were lit.

The background is going to be tougher. Maybe others have suggestions on how to do it with one light, but I can't think of how I'd do it. Can you spend $30 or $40 at Home Depot? I'd grab a couple of these clamp lights and pair them with some daylight bulbs (around 6000K temp to match your strobe). Set a few of those bad boys pointing toward the background and you should have no problem blowing it out.

It may seem obvious but setup everything at home and practice before you get to the shoot! Pin a white sheet up on your wall and play around. Figure out how you're going to make the shot work with limited gear. Expensive studio gear makes things easier, but there's no reason you can't get great results with a well-thoughtout barebones kit.

Last, if you really have to you can blow out the background in post, but to do it well will take a while. Getting the background right on site will save you hours in post.

Get more level with the object, and throw in some catch-lights. As for keeping the background true black, you can place a piece of flat cardboard on the end of each light box to discourage light from going to the side instead of just straight out. We call them flags, but I like to call them blinders. Call them anything you like, it's your studio.

Lastly, invest the best you can with two [Yongnuo flashes] (http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-560-Standard-Shoe-Flash/dp/B004GZNBH4/ref=sr_1_16?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1412171284&sr=1-16) and a [Cowboy Studio radio transmitter set] (http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412171336&sr=1-1&keywords=cowboystudio+trigger).

I have the flashes I linked to and they are fabulous - been through a lot with them and they are still going strong. Yongnuo has a ton of different types of flashes, so you have a plethora to choose from depending on what you're looking for.

Lastly, should you be into the flash option, I would say you can save yourself the trouble of outfitting them both with transmitters and just have one with the transmitter and one on S (slave) mode.

Stands are the thing you do not want to cheap out on... when your $300 AD200 goes tumbling to the floor, you don't want to have saved 10-15 bucks on a light stand. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TM600U are cheap for a light stand but are large base and support a good amount of weight.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Bracket-Speedlite-Reflector-Umbrella/dp/B00JAAXH1A

That is the brackets you will want to use with an AD200, or you can pick it up in https://www.amazon.com/Glow-Softbox-S-Type-Bracket-80x80cm/dp/B01N35GUW6 that as a kit with a 32x32 softbox.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-80cmX80cm-Speedlite-Speedring-Panasonic/dp/B00KQDZE52 is a a decent octo for the money, I use a quick collapse one I like better, but its more expensive

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ACQA0O is the beauty dish I use that is great for on location shoots as its less likely to blow over in the wind.

Yes, it comes with controllers.

I found some over-ear headphones were uncomfortable because of the headstrap for some people, but the majority of people I've demoed for have had no problems. On-ear headphones may be a better option, and if its just for you the supplied ear buds are actually surprisingly good.

Depending on your room and whether you are happy to screw the lighthouse sensors to the wall you may need some sort of mount.

I was happy to screw the sensor mounts to the wall at home but I picked up

A couple of these
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wolfcraft-4042000-80mm-Telescopic-Support/dp/B001BWT2PA/ref=sr_1_2

and a couple of these
https://www.amazon.co.uk/MyArmor-Universial-Threaded-Microphone-Motorcycles/dp/B01A6KJDFG/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2

So I could bring the Vive places with me and demo (without having to screw anything to the wall).

Alternatively if you want to attach the sensors to a bookshelf or similar these are great:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Studio-Multi-Function-Reflector-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_3

I also ended up getting a 3m HMDI extention and a 3m USB extension because my play area is a few meters from my PC and out of the box you only get 1m cables to the breakout box.

Definitely this. Even learning to bounce flash can dramatically improve the quality of your photos. Some of my favorite photos that I've taken have been in large part due to the lighting used. A few yongnuo flash units, umbrellas, stands, and triggers and you can really get into some lights for cheap. They won't support high speed sync, ETTL, flash groupings, or anything like that which means you're setting everything manually. What better way to learn, though! For under 300 bucks you can get a 3 flash setup and start taking some really great photos. If bounce is your thing you can get the Yongnuo 565 which puts out tons of power and does a great bounce (was the sole flash in that second photo). The only thing I wish it has was high speed sync.

Artificial lighting is the best and easiest way to make great, professional-looking portraits.

Are you sure you can't afford a speedlite ? You don't need an expensive name-brand one. A basic speedlite is $35. Get two of those, a basic radio control, some flash brackets, one more basic umbrella and you have yourself a portrait lighting kit for $100.

The only limitations will be that this kit won't take heavy use, and the flash won't do TTL (you have to set the power manually, which you want to do for off-camera flash anyway).

Finally, read strobist tutorial and you are now good to go and make great portraits.

A 7D is still roughly half the price of a 5D. It's not a full-frame sensor, etc. I'm not saying it's not a nice camera, but professionals would see it as a back-up camera, not their main camera body.

Pros don't skimp on camera bodies because that's about 10-20% of what gets spent on equipment in a year.

One of my old backup camera bodies is a 40D. It has a pop-up flash built in. I've never used the built-in flash, and I bought it new 4 or 5 years ago.

One thing this conversation has led me to believe: there is probably more than one reason those bodies don't have a built-in flash.

But neither did a Pentax K1000, Canon AE-1, Olympus OM, or any other old inexpensive film SLR.

If you have a camera body with the flash and no budget for a high-end flash, invest $22 or so in this:

http://www.amazon.com/Gary-Fong-Diffuser-OLYMPUS-excluding/dp/B0011000R6/

It's a great little diffuser for those harsh pop-up flashes. I own a few of his products, and they're all wonderful. I've never owned this particular diffuser, but I have recommended it to folks that bought one and let me play with it. My neighbor's 14-year-old kid is getting some great results. I didn't have his talent when I was 14. He's gonna be awesome.

My fiancé buys me neat (and cheap!) camera gear every year for christmas, so far I've gotten:

• Gary Fong Puffer $18.99 (a flash diffuser)
  
• Targus Battery Grip $25.98 (this is somewhat camera specific)
  
• Hot shoe spirit level $5 (this is cheap as hell and really cool!)
  
• Canon Monopod $34.95 (I have the Monopod 100 but it's no longer available. These are great for when a tripod is too bulky and sturdy enough to use as a light walking stick)
  
• Dolica Tripod $39.99 (Great prosumer tripod, not a pro tripod though)
  
• Lens cap keeper $1.91 (sticks to any lens cap and then attaches to the lens body to stop the lens cap from falling off)
  
  All of these things are pretty awesome for me, a serious hobbyist with a Nikon D5000 DSLR.
  
  Having said that, what I want for Christmas is:
  
  
• 52mm Neutral Density Filters ($31.99) and 62mm Neutral Density Filters ($42.99), these are the same set for both my lenses, they let you do longer exposures under brighter light conditions. I want them for a shoot in early December though so will probably buy them before that myself ;)
  
• A gradiated ND filter ($11.99), for the same reasons as above but only for one half of the exposure, with a gradient transition
  
• Panoramic Image tripod head ($16.95) for creating seamless panoramas
  
  Hopefully this helps!

Yeah, an umbrella is going to be too big to hand hold. If you are shooting insects in the wild my experience is there is a trade off between a big enough diffuser to get good looking light (bigger is better) and something that will be so big you will scare insects, or not be able to precisely control it and accidentally bump the bush or whatever you are next to.

I have these two.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017U0WM8
http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Speedlight-Speedlite-600EX-RT-Panasonica/dp/B003Y322RO
They strap directly to the flash head, so you don't need anything else to attach them. It's not like an umbrella where you need a bracket to hold the umbrella to the flash.

No hood for macro like this. You will be so close to the subject that the hood would actually block light from the flash in some cases.

You may want to start with a flash bracket though. I use a [manfrotto 330B)[http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-330B-Bracket-Support-Heads-Black/dp/B001D2CW2I]. It will hold two flash heads but I just use one. The key thing is you need a bracket that lets you position the flash at an angle above the focal point of the lens.

Which reminds me, keep in mind you will probably shoot in manual focus mode. You turn the focus ring to the 1:1 (max) magnification and then move the camera by hand until your subject is in focus. And no matter how you focus, it takes steady hands to keep the very thin focal plane on your subject.

I don't know what your budget is, but if you want the L it's supposed to be nice. I don't know that the IS helps much given that you will be shooting with a flash (that should freeze any hand-shake motion in my opinion). If you might shoot with natural light then the IS would be critical, but I'm not sure how possible it would even be. Flash makes such a HUGE difference for sharpness of the image.

You may want to just get the non-L and if you fall in love with macro you can sell it and buy the L later. Or you may do like me and move toward the extreme 4:1 or 10:1 magnification stuff where the EF lens is useless anyway.

I am trying to do a complete carry-on ultra-lightweight interview kit. So I'm an old guy, and not a big guy. But I wanted something I could single-handedly carry on a plane, on a bus, in a cab, as a pedestrian. It should be no more than two cases and I should be able to carry them in one hand while carrying a personal bag in the other. It had to be everything needed for talking head interviews including lights, camera and sound. That means my setup is much more restrictive than yours, but it works. This effort is based on doing quite a few films in Europe using only what I could carry.

Nothing I could find really made it easy. The biggest problem has been powering options, so I made the decision that it had to be small fixtures that could be used close to the subject with reasonable running time. Everything had to be battery-powered no cables or outboard power supplies were needed.

I bring 3 lights and 3 stands. This light is a fairly soft key, adjustable, 18-watts, built-in rechargeable battery. Then I have three of these very small point-source lights, (also with built-in batteries and they come with a variety of gels). One of these is used as a backlight, another for possible light for a background. Add these for mounting one or two of these Lowel umbrellas. These turn the point-lights into a nice, soft fill. Each of these lights will run 60 minutes or more at full power, much longer if reduced. Also, running time can be extended with a couple of these. I can get nice exposure and shallow depth-of-field at ISO 400 or 800. (Double or quadruple operating time at ISO 1600.)

Amazon has this light case that is checkable and can hold this lightweight Velbon tripod with a fluid head plus three or even four of these Neewer stands plus some gels and a small roll of gaffer tape.

My camera case is a small older one with a Nikon label. It holds my Panasonic GH4 or GH5 with 12-60mm lens plus 3 batteries and a USB-powered charger. There's also room for all the lights, an iPad, and a 4-port USB charger, which charges everything.

And...(are you ready for this?) the sound is in this kit, too. The secret here is the PicoGear PicoMic dual wireless mic system. This thing really does what it claims: two wireless mics with good range and run all day and the whole system goes in your pocket, plus the bonus of no body pack or cables to hide.

I'd appreciate your comments.

Yeah those are great options to get done what you want to do, However there are cheaper options if price is your driving factor. This guy is a bare bones basic flash trigger, which means that you won't get any ETTL capabilities and will have to manually set flash power. With the unit you pointed out, you will get ETTL metering, however, with the 430EX II it is my understanding that you still do have to manually change all other parameters (unlike some of the other flashes the unit you picked out supports, you can't change things like curtain sync or flash group from the camera with the transceiver IIRC).

The 622c is quite a good little unit, for the price. It will give you a bunch of ways to expand, with 7 channels you can set up multiple flash banks in the future by adding transceivers and flashes. It's also better made and will give you better range than the simple Cowboy Studio trigger. Though what it comes down to is, how much do you want to spend and what features do you think are necessary?

Do you want a RF trigger or to run it off your camera via a flash-based system?

EDIT:

Looks like the "cheap" part is going to require you to get an RF trigger and run it manually. You can get a few different kinds of manual off-camera flash for under $40, but a $60 Neewer TT860 will work great manually and you can use it with TTL on the camera as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer®-Speedlite-Camera-High-Speed-Cameras/dp/B00E3K94T6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420084596&sr=8-4&keywords=E-TTL+flash

A Cowboystudio dual trigger is going to run you $27 and works pretty darn well. Just keep stuffing dollar tree AAAs.

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420084639&sr=8-1&keywords=cowboystudio+trigger

I thought i'd share what I just came up with.

I am moving to Germany at the end of the month for about two years, and I will be doing a LOT of traveling during this time. To preserve memories and share my experiences I decided to upgrade and change around my camera bag. I sold my d3300 and lenses and wanted a setup for something portable and not cumbersome that I can take in any situation without being annoying.

My activities I want to capture:

• snowboarding
  
• Wakeboarding
  
• Motorcycling
  
• City adventure
  
• Hiking
  
• etc
  
  Here is what I put together:
  
  

  
  

• $450 GoPro Hero6
  
• $550 on Ebay - Sony RX100 MkIII for stills and some video
  
• $99 Zhiyun Smooth q to fly both the gopro, RX100, and my galaxy s8
  
• $27 leg bag to carry it all conveniently
  
• $70 high speed 128gb sd card for gopro
  
• $20 plate to mount gopro to gimbal
  
• $20 mount set for gopro with high ratings and lots of pieces
  
• splurged here... $50 mount for the motorcycle
  
• $25 two extra batteries and charger with 3 ports for GP
  
• $14 charger plus two extra batteries for the rx100
  
• $9 case for the rx100 so I can cram it in and out of leg bag without fear of harming the camera
  
• $14 grip for front of rx100 so it's easier to shoot with one hand
  
• $40 Boya BY-MM1 Micro Shotgun Mic
  
• $9 mount to attach boya mic to gimbal
  
  Grand total: $1377
  
  You can prob get the gopro plate for less but this one moves it the furthest away forward from the gimbal so it's less likely to get in the shot when shooting in superview or whatever gopro calls it these days.
  
  Also you can get a mkIV or higher as some have stated here if you want to shoot in 4k gimbal stablilized with all three cameras (s8 or equivalent phone included)
  
  I know i'm going to get flamed because it's not a sony mirrorless for what I paid, but for me being able to have all of these on me at any time is really helpful. Also you don't always have to carry anything but the gimbal and your cellphone in order to capture good video, which you will always have on you.
  
  Also I was hesitant to save the money on the Boya Mic over the RODE but the sound quality from it is very good.
  
  And one last note, I got the mkIII because I will be using the rx100 90% of the time for stills and very rarely for video. Really the only video with the rx100 will be low light and night video because of the large image sensor for it's form factor.

The kit lens is good. I still use it in certain situations because it is versatile and it's not the end of the world if it gets broken. You're probably going to want something that's better in low light though.

I HIGHLY recommend getting the Panasonic 25mm f/1.7. It's a fantastic little lens and it's not too pricey as far as lenses go.

You're definitely going to want a tripod that is heavier duty than that, as well as a fluid head. And get yourself some kind of stabilizing solution for when you go handheld, even if it's just a cheap handle or something like that.

For macro this flash is all you will need "below", "there a cheaper alternatives out there, Amazon will give you a list, make sure they work with the camera you have before purchasing", it's on my macro lenses all the time, it does not mean though that I fire it off all the time "I set up one of the camera buttons that when pressed to dissable the flash from firing" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNUH5dCaLMU&list=PLDWvA0qQrZ290b_1j0f_t9Jfnu34TRJKx&t=0s&index=118 , if natural light is right there is no need, but if you want a nice sharp shot the more light the better "but don't overdue it". In the camera flash compensation settings your camera is set by default at 1/250s of a second, which means that you shutter speed will not exceed 1/250s of a second, I don't use this option, since I shoot in manual mode and like to control my shutter, f-stop, and EV settings myself, what you do is go into the Bracketing/flash exposure settings in your camera customs setting menu and change the Flash sync speed setting from 1/250s of a second to 1/250s (Auto FP), this will give you more creativity and help freeze the subject, which is crucial with insects that constantly move "the black wasp was shot at 1/500s shutter speed with no flash used", if you are new to using a flash just stick to 1/250s, then just experiment with the Auto PF mode until you figure out the right settings for the shooting conditions.

Sigma Ring Flash.

https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-EM-140-Macro-Flash-Cameras/dp/B00064XR64?crid=PZ3KQIEG7QCA&keywords=sigma+ring+flash&qid=1540808499&sprefix=sigma+ring%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-5-fkmrnull&ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_5

​

You can also use a regular flash with a small soft box "flash diffuser" attached.

https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Universal-Collapsible-Speedlight/dp/B01ERRQ802?crid=3SV90PE13KBH8&keywords=softbox+for+speedlight&qid=1540810590&sprefix=soft+box+%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-5&ref=sr_1_5

Best flash diffuser for travel? I'm headed to Mexico with the family and am taking my D7100 and a Yongnuo flash / transmitter. Should I get a small softbox? A flash bender? Something else? I don't have a lot of experience with flash but I don't want super hard shadows on my subjects. Most of the pictures will probably be outside but there will be some inside as well. I'll be aiming for natural light where possible but want to come out with some nice family photos. Needs to be small. Thanks!

I have two Yongnuo transceivers

They work very well. Sometimes I bump the buttons, so the channels get changed, but otherwise they're reliable and it's about $75 for a pair. You can get more and add to it.

They're pretty easy to use, and is great for getting started on ocf

you don't really NEED it, you can get wonderful shots just bouncing an on-camera flash off a reflector, but you'll find when using an off-camera flash the light in your shots will look more natural, and you'll have much more flexibility for lighting and posing.

You can use the flash you are looking at off-camera by using a hot shoe cord or radio triggers (For example, Yongnuo RF-206 are found cheap on ebay).

You'll also find cheap softbox and umbrella kits floating around, which will improve the quality of your light. In a pinch you could bounce the flash off a reflector (even some white cardboard, or bedsheet. Be careful bouncing off walls as you may add a colour cast to the light).

Yep, I've used setups where the mic is on the NATO rail or in a cold shoe mounted directly to the cage.

First, balancing the handle on the rig is important for it to be effective, so I would position it in the center.

A 100mm NATO rail will give you enough room to mount the handle in the center and a cold shoe NATO clamp for the mic off to the side.

However, my preference is to mount a low-profile cold shoe to the side of the cage (e.g. the vertical 15mm rod) for the mic. This is especially useful when using something like Beachtek's MCC-2 adapter, as it puts the level controls in an easy to reach position, rather than way forward on top of the cage.

Here's an example of this type of setup with View Factor's Contineo cage.

After we lost a set of family pictures (and having to pull teeth to get another set) to crappy, non-responsive mommytographers after our second was born, I decided to finally get a real camera and learn some photography basics. We've got our third on the way now, so I'm starting to evaluate the kit I've acquired over the last few years in light of this.
If you're looking to get a flash, just grab the cheap AmazonBasics manual one and bounce it off the ceiling behind you; you'll get 80%+ of the utility of the flash for $30, adding the Cowboy Studio radio trigger gets your flash off camera for cheap as well. Regardless, learning how to use flash is another skill to research (the Strobist is a great resource) and takes a ton of practice. However, babies are slow enough that you should be just fine bumping your ISO a bit and shooting your 20mm wide open.
Really, though, I'll echo what other posters have said: knowledge beats throwing money at kit. What you have is plenty sufficient for good pictures, and buying more kit will barely move picture quality if you don't add knowledge. Practice with mom, practice with a doll, look at pictures of babies, etc. In addition, learn to post-process. Your first attempts will suck, but shoot RAW and practice. You're better off spending $150 on good PP software than another lens, but you can still make do just fine with open source software.
 
We have a similar setup: EM10m2, 14-42 kit, 25mm f/1.8, 40-150 f/4-5.6, 7.5mm f/3.5 fisheye, as well as a smattering of old adapted lenses (most useful is the 50mm f/1.7 that fills the classic "portraiture" role)

Looking for a somewhat cheap TTL Transmitter.

So I'm a nightlife photographer although it's somewhat more of a hobby. Anyway, I'm getting more into photographing bands and I'd like to buy a TTL Trigger so I can take my camera off flash and be more creative with my lightning.

I'm looking at these alternatives:

• Cactus V6
  
• Yongnuo YN622C + (maybe) Yongnuo YN622C-TX
  
  I always shoot using the following setup:
  
  
• Canon EOS 60D
  
• Canon 430EXII Flash
  
• Canon EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6
  
  Are these triggers any good? Should I be looking at any alternatives? Can they take a little bump (my camera does get hit occasionally). I am honestly more tempted towards the Yongnuo ones since they seem more compact.
  
  Thanks in advance!
  

Yes, those are the third hand poles that I didn't want to spend the money on, I didn't realise that they were not spring loaded. I was also thinking of the marks left by the pressure so I am considering using rubber pads on the feet. I have a pack of these lying around: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007J6VKU2
If I remove slippery part I'll be left with 4 thick rubber pads that I can use.

Of course it all depends on whether the poles themselves will be stable enough and I'm not feeling too confident :)

As for the camera mount itself, I bought something like the recommended ones in a local shop but the shop keeper also showed me something like this which might be useful for a temporary solution or for transferring to a seated area where the lighthouse doesn't have to be held up too high (on a shelf or something):

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MR0VPOQ

If I do end up using command strips I might use a secondary command strip and somehow tie a leash between it and the main mount. I might do that anyway to have a secondary anchor

Get one of these:

Yongnuo 560 IIs

And get some radio triggers too. You'll need something like a Flash Bender, or a Fong Lightsphere to diffuse/modify the light.

I've seen a lot of bar photogs using this combo, and then they hold the light above the subjects head, so you get a nice butterfly-like light quality, and it's much more efficient than bouncing, as you can use much less flash power to get a clean image.

You could find variations of the products I mentioned to fit your budget if those are too much.

Haha you're welcome. It is an excellent system.

> I should be able to put these things on my tripods as lightstands, right?

Not so much tripods, although you can probably find something for that too. Usually people use dedicated light stands. There is a nifty adapter godox makes that allows you to clamp in a speedlight and attach Bowens type modifers (the same as their strobes) such as octoboxes and softboxes. There is a hole in there too so you can attach a umbrella.

I got two clamps that will clip to furniture. I have one on a shelf, the other on a curtain rail and they work bloody perfect. Great too if you travel with them and they're very small. Definitely better than having a tripod taking up space!

Only £15 for 2!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Studio-Multi-Function-Reflector-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=sr_1_cc_7?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667294&sr=1-7-catcorr&keywords=dslr+clamp

Thanks for linking the Harbor Freight poles. They are half the price of the ones I've seen used elsewhere. I chose to get these clamps because they have better reviews and should be able to fit on smaller poles. With luck I'll be able to clamp to the silver top part of the bar hopefully making it sturdier and lower profile for transport.

I picked up 2 of these flashes and this wireless trigger, and this(or similar) set of reflective umbrellas and stands. All that stuff is pretty universal and should work on most cameras.

It's nothing fancy, but it's less than $200 for the whole setup and it gets great results. I use the same stuff for portrait work.

The Tokina lens looks great, but unfortunately it's designed for a crop sensor. I can put it on my full frame camera, but it's going to leave me with a big black circle around all of my pictures.

Not sure how you're diffusing, but I bought one of these a while ago and was impressed at how well it works. It's still a direct light source so the pictures will look a little flatter than shooting with a bounce or off-camera flash would but for $20 vs. hundreds for a speedlight system it's a really good start. But I bet with as handy as you guys appear to be I bet you've already built your own!

Yongnuo's probably the way to go. They make really nice 3rd party flashes.

If you do buy one, make sure:

1: It's made for Canon

2: It has TTL (basically means it has auto mode), probably listed as ETTL or something.

https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-568EX-YN568EX-powerful-speedlite/dp/B00DA8459G

This is the one I have, works fine on my 80D.

https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN600EX-RT-Speedlite-YN-E3-RT-600EX-RT/dp/B01GMFQULE

This is the slightly higher end model with radio triggering for wireless off-camera flash.

Hope this helps! What camera are you using?

EDIT: Oh hey, I just noticed my suggestions are identical to another guy in this sub.

Anyhow...

As far as preparing - what do you have for gear? (I'm not trying to be a gear whore here - just curious what you're working with). If you don't already have something in the 35-50mm range - get something. Canon's cheapest option is the 50mm f1.8. It's an extremely cheap lens for the image quality - but it also feels cheap. If you've got the extra money - find an MK I model - as it has a metal mount. (I believe that's true. I only owned the plastic MK II & 50 1.4)

If you're shooting Nikon - I'd highly recommend the 35mm 1.8 or 35mm f2.

If you don't have a flash - pick up one (or two) of these - and learn to use them: Yongnuo YN560

Pick up some triggers, too. Then you can fire your flash wirelessly in order to bouce/move it around without a cable. Here are some cheap ones. Mine only fire about 9/10 times - I guess I'll take that gamble though. Link

If you don't have a reflector - [get one of those as well.] (http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-110CM-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335429041&sr=8-1) - Also learn to use it.

Find a used tripod on CL. Buy something good. DO NOT BUY A $25 TRIPOD AND EXPECT IT TO HOLD $2000 (or whatever) in camera. Find something used. You can find decent manfrotto w/heads for $80-$100.


So enough gear rambling - are you able to fire your flash off camera? What kinds of things do your grandmother and aunt like to do? Get them in their element, doing something they enjoy. I'll take that over any solid colored background.

Speedlite holders: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JS3MINC

I own a couple of these and they are fantastic!

Gels: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URG1C2C

No need to go with the expensive Rogue set. I love these by Selens.

Lighting gear bag:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LEE7J0U

This has been put through a bit of use and has held up great so far.


Lighting stands

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/

Speedlites

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010XCEABO/

I recently got a Godox V860ii and am looking into getting an off camera flash setup for it.

What are the benefits of using a S-Type Bracket vs just using swivel mount? One is almost twice the cost of the other, and I'm willing to invest, but is there any other benefit besides the Bowen mount system for the link of the one I put below? Thanks!

Bowens S Mount: https://www.amazon.com/Godox-Bracket-Speedlite-Softbox-Honeycomb/dp/B00JS3MINC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=s+bracket&qid=1565634775&s=electronics&sr=1-2

Swivel Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JRNNTG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AM5WHBW8CZ8MA&psc=1

Get a soft box diffuser for your flash like this one. If you get a mounted flash (which most recommend), something like this will work well. I have the second one and it's great.

NEED ADVICE ASAP!

Tomorrow I will be shooting my first ever wedding. I won't be at the ceremony but I will have a set up at the reception. My problem is one of the sockets on my lights has popped out somewhere and now I'm only working with one light for reference now I'm only working with one of these
I do have my Newwer flash and this light bender as well. Do you guys think I can wing this or should I try to find another main light source asap? Also any advice on doing backdrop wedding photography? I'm working with my Sony a6300 and I have a 18-55 kit lens and 50mm 1.4 Nikon lens. I was thinking the 50 was going to give me the best result since I'm doing portraits.

If I can wing it with one main source light and my flash where should I position the main light? Going on YouTube right now to look up some tutorials and tips would appreciate any links or articles! I'm pretty nervous because it's a wedding but its not the first time I wing a shoot with mishaps going on.

I’m starting to get into lighting. The goal is for portrait work outdoors.

A friend was kind enough to give me 2 yonguo speed lights and a trigger that he doesn’t use anymore. He told me to buy this:

Neewer 2 Pack 33"/84cm White Translucent Soft Umbrella for Photo and Video Studio Shooting

Camera Flash Speedlite Mount,ChromLives Professional Swivel Light Stand Light Bracket Umbrella Bracket Mount Shoe Holder E Type for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus Nissin Metz and Other Speedlite Flashes

AmazonBasics Aluminum 7-Foot Light Stand with Case - 2-Pack

Can someone explain the difference between that and something like this?

He said to go as cheap as possible, but after you factor in the tax the amazon option is about ~$10 cheaper. My gut is telling me to go with the B&H because of the vast amount of positive reviews. What are your thoughts?

Unanswered question from the previous megathread

Author /u/Solnx - (Permalink)

I’m starting to get into lighting. The goal is for portrait work outdoors.

A friend was kind enough to give me 2 yonguo speed lights and a trigger that he doesn’t use anymore. He told me to buy this:

Neewer 2 Pack 33"/84cm White Translucent Soft Umbrella for Photo and Video Studio Shooting

Camera Flash Speedlite Mount,ChromLives Professional Swivel Light Stand Light Bracket Umbrella Bracket Mount Shoe Holder E Type for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus Nissin Metz and Other Speedlite Flashes

AmazonBasics Aluminum 7-Foot Light Stand with Case - 2-Pack

Can someone explain the difference between that and something like this?

He said to go as cheap as possible, but after you factor in the tax the amazon option is about ~$10 cheaper. My gut is telling me to go with the B&H because of the vast amount of positive reviews. What are your thoughts?

Hmm in looking into this, it seems that there are USB powered lens warmers on amazon.

A number of them seem to heat to 122f (50C) thus I would recommend getting some perfboard and building up a simple voltage control circuit in order to probably drop the voltage to like 3.5V, or search ebay for a USB fan speed controller (they sell for less than $1.50). Then adjust the voltage until the lens heater can maintain a temperature of probably 80-90f.

https://www.amazon.com/PROTAGE-Condensation-Prevention-Evening-Remover/dp/B073X18JND/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535953885&sr=1-1&keywords=lens+warmer

or this

https://www.amazon.com/COOWOO-Upgraded-Warmer-Universal-Telescopes/dp/B075ZSYJ31/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

Since they are designed for colder temperatures, pairing one of those with a USB fan speed controller, e.g., https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Fan-Speed-Controller-DC-4-12V-Reducing-Noise-Multi-stall-Adjustment-Governor/123314897776?hash=item1cb6240370:g:7swAAOSwtE9bdW41

May allow you to achieve just enough warming to counter the AC in the car and not overheat the lens.

Then just have the wrap loosely on the lens or under the camera, and lens,with just enough power to keep it close to the outdoor temperature.

Here's the set up I use and like it very much. I looked at the light stands too, but didn't want the feet on the stand protruding into my play space. They have worked great and have had no issue. You may be able to find shorter ones, but I have high ceilings and had to go with these.

http://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Support-System-144-Inches-3HAND5/dp/B000067S12?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01

http://www.amazon.com/Smallrig%C2%AE-Clamp-Mount-Ball-Adapter/dp/B00CSMCPKQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

You can get shorter ones from Harbor Freight for a lot cheaper. They just weren't long enough for my ceilings. The one from Amazon is much sturdier too.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-1-support-cargo-bar-66172.html

>Do i buy a better flash or triggers?

Yes. Yongnuo HSS capable trigger and Yongnuo HSS capable flash.

Not sure about a telescope tracking electronics but my Camera does fine when this happens. It’s a common problem when photographing Aurora here in Alaska. To keep the lens clear they make [usb lens heaters ](PROTAGE Condensation Prevention Lens Heater Evening Dew Remover USB Warmer P-LH02 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073X18JND/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hmxZDb9YG664K). Might work on the main mirror but not sure how you would keep the others ice free. My camera does fine to about -30°F then starts acting up.

I grabbed this one:
http://www.amazon.com/SLFC-Tripod-Camera-Reflector-Backdrop/dp/B00JKDMG96?ie=UTF8&refRID=1ADN35RMBCKAXAV512XF&ref_=pd_ybh_a_12

Very solidly built clamp, strong spring mechanism and the mount has a good range of motion with a screw tightener that looks like it'll hold the lighthouse in any position I need. I don't have a lighthouse yet to test beyond that, but for <$10 this looks to be perfect.

I would highly recommend the Yongnuo external speedlights! You'll also need wireless flash triggers to shoot with your flash off-camera (made for your camera brand) I personally like to shot through a white umbrella for close up portraits. You can find all of this equipment on Amazon :)


Yongnuo Flash: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PGTOX26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B3jizbSQH5JC7


White Umbrella: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PEX8XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K8jizbZE9WMJ8


Flash Adapter for light stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TYDBYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m9jizbNDJBSJ6


Light stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_79jizb8EEAZAT


I can recommend wirelessly flash triggers too! What brand is your camera?

Amazon has the 568 ex II for around $130- not sure what that translates to for your currency.

Both are great little speed lights, if you are just starting out, really any flash can work, the most important thing right now is that you learn how to and when to use flash, the type/ brand won't make a significant difference.

Yongnuo is a definite favorite of this subreddit, as for the differences I'm not too sure..

edit: here's the one difference I've found :

> The new YN-568EX II is exactly the same as the current YN-568EX except for an added Master control for the Canon optic wireless system. - See more at: http://flashhavoc.com/yongnuo-yn-568ex-ii-canon/#sthash.g2HPQtm2.dpuf

Not the other guy, but for $200 or just over, you can get really good images.

What you need:

• flash: try a godox tt685 ($110)
  
  
• trigger... x1t ($45)
  
  
• lightstand: just get some cheap amazon one ($15)
  
  
• try an umbrella soft box thing ($26)
  
  
• speedlight holder thing that holds an umbrella](https://www.amazon.com/Anwenk-Speedlite-Umbrella-Reflector-Holder/dp/B072JRNNTG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=2C3FCKUUBCFAW&keywords=umbrella+flash+bracket&qid=1556913624&s=gateway&sprefix=umbrella+flash+&sr=8-2) ($10 - $15)
  
  
• something white to bounce light, like a sheet of poster board or just use a white wall. To fill in shadows.
  
  
• optional: a second flash for a hair light (anything cheap that has optical slave mode will do) + second light stand + flash holder bracket etc. Or just prop it up on a shelf.

Photographer friends! I'm finally going to buy some lighting equipment, so I was looking for any recommendations. My budget is around $500 for a two light setup. I usually shoot costume photography (at conventions and outside of them) and portraits.


I would like to go with Yongnuo for the triggers (YN622) and flashes themselves (probably 1 565EX and 1 560).


I have no idea what to go with for the stands (Maybe Manfrotto Nano or Lumopro Compact?), swivels, and umbrellas, except that I'd love for them to be small and light (I'm weak!).


I'm also not sure what modifiers to pick up for using an on-camera flash, like a softbox (LumiQuest Softbox or Lastolite Ezybox?), the Gary Fong Lightsphere that everyone has, or something else (LumiQuest Quik Bounce?).


I will put some good rechargeable batteries (Eneloops?) into my budget, but is there anything else that I'm missing?


Also, I'm not in a hurry to pick any of this up, so are there any sites to keep an eye on for sales?


Thanks!

HEY! Thanks for the links! I took a look. It I want something to be more automatic, and basically just have the flash and camera figure it out for me, would you recommend the this, or this? Thanks again!

Someone else mentioned to try taking a shot directly looking at the softbox and see what happened. The flash DEFINITELY fired, but the picture was completely black, leading me to believe that you guys are right about the flash/shutter being out of sync. I really hope it isn't the triggers...but they are a pretty cheap brand I got for Xmas a few years ago.

Here are the Triggers I'm using.

I'm using spring clamp mount. Works very well. Can clip on to all kinds of stuff. Got one on top of a small step ladder and the other on top of a wardrobe door. Have had perfect tracking even though they are at different heights. Cheap as well.

Phot-R Multi-Function Spring Clamp with 1/4" Screw Ball Head for DSLR Cameras https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_utnpxbT586DDH

That's a good point.

I have shelfs where I want to mount my base stations. I'm thinking I could actually use [this]
(http://www.amazon.com/Smallrig®-Clamp-Mount-Ball-Adapter/dp/B00CSMCPKQ/ref=pd_sim_421_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=41K7sL65EaL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0RNY6YR417R9S7FAKHS1) to mount them.

P.S. I really need to take a minute to figure out how to properly link on Reddit :)
EDIT - Figured it out :)

I got one of each to give myself some flexibility, both have worked great so far.

Smallrig® Cool Ballhead Arm V4

Smallrig® Clamp Mount V1

I am trying to setup a very beginner's studio in my basement. I have a 25 feet by 20 feet space (no windows) that I plan to use. Would this equipment work for me?

1. Julius Studio 10 foot wide backdrop stand
   
2. [Cowboy Studio 10x12 feet grey muslin cloth] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCW6G0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) (Or for a small studio, should I go black or white instead?)
   
3. Neewer 37" beehive octagon softbox (will this work with my Yongnuo 560 speedlight?)
   
4. Neewer s-type holder with bowens mount (Does this fit the softbox?)
   
5. Impact air-cushioned light stand 8' (And this will fit the holder?)
   
   Would love to hear opinions on these, and also if I am buying stuff that will work with each other.
   
   Thank you!

Get a flash, such as the the FL-600R. (the built in flash being harsh and crappy.) The flash will allow you to go up to 1/200 or so which will suitably 'freeze' squirmy children. With infants/toddlers don't point the light straight at them for two reasons; one, it scares them and two direct flash looks terri-bad; bounce the light off the ceiling, or if that doesn't work too well, use a diffuser, soft box, or reflector.

It takes a little practice with the flash (your first results will underwhelm you) but with a little YouTube and Googling you can get down the techniques quick enough to get squirmy baby photos indoors without needing to buy expensive lenses (though yes the flash is itself expensive.... so maybe my argument is moot.) Faster lenses (especially prime lens at portrait focal lengths) will certainly do the job without a flash. You will do OK with either the Pany or the Oly 20/17mm's though I would first advise renting them through LensRentals first (as well as try out any other lens that takes your fancy.)

​

Yeah the answer is definitely a fill flash. I use these and I love them (for how cheap they are compared to a pocket wizard). Start with that, maybe get a little diffuser to soften the light over the flower.

I like these as well, nice and cheep and there's usually somewhere to clamp them like shelves

Also gorilla pod knock offs are cheap as from hong kong

Thanks!

I used two of these and this set of colors.


Easy results for under $100. around $100.

EDIT: Oh yeah, and this for my off-camera triggering system.

A dedicated radio trigger will help you do things like trigger flashes that aren't in the same room as your camera (for things like real estate shots), or if the flash is in such a position that the pop up flash doesn't reach the sensor on the flash. For things like portraits or still lives, the pop up flash can change the exposure of the image, and will show up as a source of light if not configured properly.

For as cheap as radio triggers are, just grab one like the [Cowboy Studio] (http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Channel-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B002W3IXZW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394476818&sr=8-1&keywords=cowboy+studio+flash+trigger) I use. Super cheap and gets the job done. Maybe not the best option at crowded places where other photographers might be using similar frequencies, but at home or in your own studio it will suffice.

I was hoping for something less bulky that the following, but it might be the best option at under £5ea:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Studio-Multi-Function-Reflector-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ

Yeah I've been thinking about making/buying something like that for using the pop-up flash when I don't have (or want to get out) the whole flash setup. Which honestly is fine for most field photography. I have a cheap collapsible softbox that I use with the flash and keep in my camera bag, but the lens-mounted one is probably better. Do you have a link for one of those?

I'd definitely pick up a speed light. If they choose right in front off the Windows and it's bright out, you're toast without it. Something like Altura Photo Professional Flash Kit for NIKON DSLR - Includes: I-TTL Flash (AP-N1001), Wireless Flash Trigger Set and Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H84WRK2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_j0a-ybVCZGCG4 Will get you ittl and a remote trigger for not too much money. Since you're traveling, worst case scenario you make your bf hold it, but you might be able to get away with it on camera bounced of the ceiling. I might grab something like this Flash Diffuser Light Softbox 6x5” by Altura Photo (Universal, Collapsible with Storage Pouch) for Canon, Yongnuo and Nikon Speedlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ERRQ802/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_e2a-yb78Y3G53 too, just to be safe

Excellent. Make sure to get some kind of adjustable umbrella mounts like these to go with your light stands... They work great on tripods as well if you need stability but not height. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07317T52Q?psc=1

You could set your self up pretty good with $500. I have a couple suggestions, but the first would be to get yourself a cheap prime lens first. Either a 50mm 1.8 or a 24mm pancake. Both are around $100 and would still leave quite a bit in your budget. So, saying you go ahead and do that:

• You could get a couple of Yongnuo 560 IV
  You could choose to fire then optically with your Canon speed lite or get one of these
  
• Grab a few of these to hold your flashes
  
• And a few of theseto stand them up
  
• In terms of modifiers you have a few options. You could go with cheap umbrellas which are fine. Or you could get some small soft boxes. I say just grab a huge modifier. As big as you can get. It's gonna really depends on how much space you have. check this out
  
  That's a decent, portable, and effective setup with two lenses for right about $500.
  
  Since your using someone else's studio lugging equipment is gonna be a pain. That's why I think speed lights is the way to go. But if you don't mind, look into a monolight kit. For your portraits I really do think you'll like what you get from a fast prime lens.

If you have shelves or any other clampable surface all over the room you want to put the lighthouses in, consider using this as a great solution for mounting the lighthouses https://www.amazon.com/SLFC-Tripod-Camera-Reflector-Backdrop/dp/B00JKDMG96/


its what i use and they work great

So any external flash is going to be pretty bright on a snap and might make people uncomfortable. I really wouldn't recommend using an external flash in a place of business unless you've been given the okay to do so.

With that said, I'm not your mom so do what you want. Here's what you'll likely be looking for though: Yongnuo YN560IV flash, Yongnuo 560TX transmitter, and some sort of flash diffuser box like this.

This sounds like a great place for the Rogue Flashbender.

It takes a little getting used to, but can be extremely useful when you don't have good surfaces for bouncing, and don't want to use direct flash.

If you get this CowboyStudio trigger/receivers you'll be able to trigger two flashes at once. Then you can buy individual receivers to hook up to your remaining flashes. For some reason it's actually cheaper to buy the kit with a transmitter and two receivers though.

That's the setup I use. You have to keep your flashes in manual, but it works (for Nikon and the cheap-o YN-560s). Range is good, batteries seem to last just fine, everything works out of the box.

Okay. Thanks. Does that go for soft boxes that go on speedlights as well? I'm looking at this one --> https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Universal-Collapsible-Speedlight/dp/B01ERRQ802/ref=sr_1_4?crid=24N7DTX2J8HWS&keywords=godox+v860ii+diffuser&qid=1550767520&s=electronics&sprefix=diffuser+v860%2Celectronics%2C126&sr=1-4

Alright, so lets say I get the Yongnuo YN-560 III,

How can I find out which transmitters work with it?

Amazon is recommending this

So, I can have a remote in my hand, a transmitter on the camera, and the flash elsewhere. I hit the remote, it triggers the flash and the camera?

I think most expensive diffusers are overpriced and mostly work the same. Honestly, you can make a decent one from a rubbing alcohol bottle.

however, if you want to look good, get a folding soft box diffuser. They are only around 12 dollars https://www.amazon.ca/Opteka-SB-1-Universal-Diffuser-External/dp/B0017U0WM8

Depends, do you need TTL?

One easy thing to do is get a hotshoe extension: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GR6IUK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003GR6IUK&linkCode=as2&tag=vwllss-20

Obviously you're then limited to 10 feet off camera, although that's still quite a bit

If you'd like wireless you could get some cheap radios. I'm a big fan of Yongnuo's better stuff. It's direct from China so it's not supreme quality, but it's the "high end" Chinese stuff so it's actually quite reliable. I have 6 Yongnuo triggers and I'm very happy with them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050E7OSM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0050E7OSM&linkCode=as2&tag=vwllss-20

The problem there is they're manual only, meaning you have to fire off your flash(es), look at your screen, and adjust them appropriately. This isn't so bad and it's what I do when I have a portrait session. In the case of a careful portrait I prefer the control over the automatic. Note you don't need to look at your screen if you buy a flash meter, but they're quite expensive.

The last option is a TTL radio, which lets you both go wireless and automatic. They cost upwards of $250 per unit (so $150-$500 for a pair to use your flash with).

http://shop.radiopopper.com/radiopopperjrxstudiokitusca.aspx

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TAPOQ0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001TAPOQ0&linkCode=as2&tag=vwllss-20

Just do a search?

https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN-468-II-Speedlite-Display/dp/B00660H6KU/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=yn+468+ii&qid=1557892423&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spell

https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-565-Speedlite-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B00844N5OC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=yn+565&qid=1557892447&s=gateway&sr=8-3-spell

https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-568EX-YN568EX-powerful-speedlite/dp/B00DA8459G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=yn+565&qid=1557892447&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN568EX-YN-568EX-Speed-Speedlite/dp/B0094O6GNI/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=yn+568&qid=1557892461&s=gateway&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-568EX-YN568EX-powerful-speedlite/dp/B00DA8459G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=yn+568&qid=1557892461&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

I wrote that FAQ entry and I think they're all good buys. Why would we bother listing something that isn't?

Godox also makes good third party flashes and are more popular recently, but I'm less familiar with their model numbers.

You either need a radio trigger or a master flash. Buying a 580 just to use as a master flash is a waste of money. I recommend the Yongnuo 622C radio flash trigger. It's eTTL and HSS capable and has a very long working distance. You can also set up groups and ratios for multiple flashes if and when you want to create more advanced flash setups.

www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Receiver-Transmitter-Transceiver/dp/B0090BSSZO

I use this clamp on a door frame. It's great as it holds well, leaves no marks, and when I'm done I just move it back to the top of my monitor.

For a flash, these are $44 atm http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-560-Speedlight-Flash-Canon/dp/B004GZLFHM/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_cp_5

I have 3 and they are pretty reliable.

Then you can get a cheap wireless recieve kit like this
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=pd_cp_p_1

you need either:

1) Off-Camera Flash Sync Cable

or

2) Wireless Flash Trigger

It's best to start with a cord, and not overcomplicate things. As your skill progresses, you'll eventually want to move to a wireless trigger.

I think using a lens warmer is typically considered the best option!

Something like this might be useful at least for mounting to your book case.
https://www.amazon.com/SLFC-Tripod-Camera-Reflector-Backdrop/dp/B00JKDMG96

Place a softbox attachment on your external flash to soften the light and make it easier on the people you shoot. I know you don't want a flash but this seems to help.

https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Universal-Diffuser-Speedlites/dp/B01ERRQ802/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1468882130&sr=8-10&keywords=flash+softbox

You can get clamps with ball joints, easier to work with and still fairly affordable. Like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item

I just bought these and they work perfectly at around 1/10 the cost of Pocket Wizards (no TTL though). Just starting to experiment with off-camera lighting myself.

I love these. They hold the flash in a much more sturdy manner than the umbrella brackets.

http://www.amazon.com/Godox-Bracket-Speedlite-Softbox-Honeycomb/dp/B00JS3MINC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1457722832&sr=8-4&keywords=bowens+softbox+mount

Ohhhh I missed that it was your photo. But yeah, aiming the flash directly at your model and getting it closer will definitely harshen the shadows. Something good to play around with is flash gels like these or any other brand and diffusers Like this. I think a yellow/gold gel with the flash above (at say, a 45 degree angle maybe) and pointing directly at your model will get a similar look to #1 and adding that diffuser would, in my opinion, reduce the negative qualities of that type of light quite a bit. Definitely mess with sharpening as well.

If it were me, I like your picture much more than #2, but to each their own of course!

These work great for hooking the sensors to bookshelves, curtain rods, or other similar objects: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JKDMG96

A quick Google search confirms that it does—something like this perhaps? But that locks you into only ever being able to use it with Speedlights.

Wouldn't it be wiser to get a regular speedring and then add an optional speedlight bracket? Something like that, say. So if you wanted to use the softbox with a studio head eventually, you could.

I'd recommend something like this. I plan on getting one for each SL360 I have.

Like others, I've had the best success about doorway-height. Maybe about 6-8ft looking downwards. I have a pair of flash stands from doing photography, but you could pick up a cheap set of those that are at least 6ft

I also have mini clamps that I attach to the top of the door or to the stairs balusters when I'm downstairs:

• Clamps like this
  
• Or like this
  
  If you are really tight on space and cant use the flash stands, look into a pair of these, they are heavy-duty tension rods that go up to 12'.

I have a 1070 and it's fine. Get a cheap camera clamp mount and angle the lighthouses down. You play space is going to be a bit restrictive, but mostly ok.

Thanks, do you know of any cheap wireless transmitter+receiver that can trigger through the hot shoe?

Or can this cowboy studio one trigger through hot shoe? or does it only trigger through the PC Sync?

Will this swivel and this adapter allow me to connect a Yongnuo560iv to a Dolica Tripod?


Also, does anyone have any better quality swivel recommendations?

I'll give you a tip:

Extendable shower rods (or some other extendable pole of some kind), and something like these.

Wedge the shower poles between floor and ceiling, screw the base stations into the clamps, then fasten them onto the poles and adjust as required.

I've been using this method for over a month now and it works a treat.

 

I don't know how I found this post from a week ago either.

Had a similar problem over the summer, and my solution was these beauties: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/

Depending on what country you're in, you might still be able to get something from Amazon for tomorrow.

Yea, I have one of the smallest gorillapods and used to use it for mounting a lighthouse. Obviously if you can get one of the legs wrapped around something then so much the better.

But if its going to become a common thing, get these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They happily clip onto shelves, doors, curtain rails etc and provide a good grip, I have no fear of them falling.

Sure, here’s the one I got.

PROTAGE Condensation Prevention Lens Heater Evening dew Remover USB Warmer P-LH02 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073X18JND/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6UdQBbR4X3V1Z

pics would help!


i use these little guys for a lot of things, including mounting my base stations, and i've never had any problems with them holding their grip.

Just a suggestion, use the Neewer Flash Bracket. It's way more manageable for holding the flash.

You can also just epoxy the dish to the bracket. If you don't want to sacrifice the flash bracket, attach a speedring adapter to the dish.

Good effort though, results are what matter.

with these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 althogh i would gues i might need a better clamp than the clips if they are heavy.

I have the 6D and it focuses amazingly well, both for single shots and in AI Servo. If it's really dark, and I mean difficulty seeing your hand in front of your face, buy one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-622C-Wireless-Trigger-580EXII/dp/B0090BSSZO and it will focus in pitch dark.

I went to a talk by a prominant local landscape photographer - He swore by these heated sleeve for his lenses to prevent it from fogging (and believed they would clear fog fairly quickly - so he didn't have to worry about temperature in his car etc - or waiting for the temperature to equalize)

something like this

he swore by it (and I know a few people who went to the talk did buy some afterwards and have had similar success)

does require a portable battery however - which can be annoying if you need the camera to be more movable; but if you were say setting up tripods etc, its not tooo bad.

I highly recommend using a diffuser or soft box such as this one or this one

I have a Yongnuo YN 560 III. It has all the same features as the high-end name brand flashes for only $70.
Be aware in order to get ETTL support, you need to buy their ETTL triggers.

I bought these poles (£12.99 each) - http://www.screwfix.com/p/extension-support-rod/14003#_=p

And these clamps (£3.95 each) - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=s9_simh_gw_g421_i1_r?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=87YCDV8QBXTC9EFKJ5CQ&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=867551827&pf_rd_i=desktop

They are solid.. just need my vive to arrive on Thursday :)

Theres also a lens-warmer that you can attach through the usb port in your camera. Heres one on amazon for about $20
PROTAGE Condensation Prevention Lens Heater Evening dew Remover USB Warmer P-LH02 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073X18JND/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3otJBbFSTKFT2

It might be better to go with something nicer than those. $14 for cheap plastic crap is kind of absurd, plus they have pretty bad reviews. I got these, and they're only $5 more each.

These are nicer than the Grifti ones:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CSMCPKQ

I bought these SLFC New Tripod Camera Clip Clamp Flash Reflector Holder Mount for Studio Backdrop Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JKDMG96/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hh8Gxb22JBZYB as they were recommended by someone on this Reddit. They work well for me and are sturdy.

I'd go for an AD200 Pro with their X-Pro wireless trigger. If you've got money left over, you could grab one of their smaller lights for fill / background lighting.

I use this mount to hold mine, which is infinitely quicker than the included mount. There's also a good variety of modifiers that come in Bowens mount.

Food shoots I'm doing right now for an online delivery service require this setup:

-31" double diffused softbox

-Reflector (I use one with a handle so I can attach it to a weighted tripod and set it on a chair. Not the ideal setup currently, but it works.

-godox speedlight->bowens clamp mount

-white balance mini-reflector

-speedlight

-a7iii + Nikon 55mm 2.8 micro

-2x cloth napkins

-Moleskine notebook

-Extra speedlight

i could attach tripod to my bag and fit everything, though I prefer to just carry it. I use a tripod as a light stand because it folds up smaller.

all fits in my 30L

Also, do yourself a favor and get a LONG cable to pull the flash from your shoe, don't go OEM.
http://www.amazon.com/Pixel-E-TTL-Off-Camera-replaces-OC-E3b/dp/B003GR6IUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347991996&sr=8-1&keywords=e-ttl+cable
And check out Strobist: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/02/welcome-to-strobist.html

Yes, cowboystudio is one example.

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412178484&sr=8-1&keywords=cowboystudio+trigger

I bought this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TYDBYQ/
and there's nothing to screw in. It looks like there's supposed to be a larger piece that fits into the flash bracket.

My 2nd screen I just use browse, or voice chat. Cant use it to seriously, as you want to crank your neck to look up ;) My old 144hz 1440p I just took to work to use.

See if this link works for you ( older image ). I am not at home right now and at work I am limited where I can upload images to.

I am using this stand amazon ink, as I dont have allot of space where I am sitting and the desk is all glass.

Edit: Not in this image, but I also use this clamp for my Occulus CV1 sensor to attach it to the top screen :

SLFC New Tripod Camera Clip Clamp

something like this

I think there are TTL compatible cables that you can get like this. You can at least use your current flash with it's TTL Capabilities, even if not with total control.

I bought this light and put it on this bracket. The GoPro is attached with a tripod mount. I had to file part of the mounting piece on the light to make it fit on the bracket.

This looks like it should work
https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-622C-Wireless-Transmitter-Transceiver/dp/B0090BSSZO

different model from Yongnuo?

I got a thing like this and shoot pretty straight with not very much flash power (i'd rather turn the iso up a bit than flash banging people to death).

Still not as good as bouncing would be, but an improvement. Softens the harsh shadows. I believe you can get those from china on ebay for very cheap

L Bracket on the bottom, monitor plus microphone on that, done. Way cheaper than the handles and works quite well in my experience.

I have this one, and I've had no problems with it whatsoever. Works great and does everything I need it to. Shooting on a 5D as well.

Hmm, if you have cables for them, it would be worth trying to fire a flash off camera with no film loaded. Sadly I'm not familiar with that kind of trigger, but I have had decent luck with the Cowboy Studios manual triggers - http://www.amazon.ca/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Channel-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B002W3IXZW

The tripods I have purchased extend up to 2M (78") are being sold as a pair for £18.88: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00899801A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01

I purchased two of these 1/4" tripod ball brackets for £6.99 each: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Eggsnow-Tripod-Bracket-Holder-Ballhead/dp/B00L23XN9O/ref=sr_1_6?s=photo&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1456881505&sr=1-6&keywords=1%2F4%22+tripod+ball

Total cost: £32.86

While I was looking I also saw these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Multi-Function-Spring-Clamp-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1456947171&sr=8-4&keywords=camera+1%2F4%22+ball

Currently £4.81 each, and basically bulldog clips with a standard camera ball joint attached to them.

I have the Yongnuo 568EX II and have taken a few hundred shots with it with no missed shots. Construction is very solid, and all the features work as expected including highspeed sync and E-TTL. The color is a little cooler than my Canon flashes so I always have to warm it up a bit in post process.

For long-term reliability? Well, you kind of get what you pay for; there are people reporting that these "cheaper" flashes do not last as long as the brand name. I've only had the Yongnuo for a couple of months so I can't tell how long they will last, but I've had the Canon 580EX for 10 years now and it hasn't missed a shot.

I don't have my base stations permanently secured.

Instead, I bought a pair of these, but only used one of them, clamped to a bookcase.

On the other side of the room I have a basic camera tri-pod I bought over a decade ago sitting on a shelf with it's legs very close together and not extended very far.

You either need a sync cord or a trigger that's TTL capable. The one you linked isn't, but this one is.

Is there a cheap adapter that would attach this to the screw on top of a regular camera tripod? basically a light stand adapter of sorts?

The YN565 is an older model that has since been replaced by the YN568, so I'm not sure how well Yongnuo supports that older flash. That being said, the 565 and 568 are both TTL/HSS flashes. If you're just looking for flashes that can trigger wirelessly and you don't need the fancy TTL/HSS features, you can get away with their less expensive YN560 model and get some inexpensive RF-603 triggers instead.

Here’s another crazy idea: Clip-on Tripod and embarrassingly bright pop can light. The light’s angle will change as the deck angle changes, not source how big a factor that will be with so much spill. Plus the light is mostly parallel to the road, so obstructions cast shadows.