Reddit mentions: The best camera & camcorder batteries & chargers

> Price Range: UK, up to £50 - the only batteries I have and have experience with are disposables like AA and AAA but I am willing to learn about new types. I have charging cables like USB-C
>
> Battery Type & Quantity: Recommend me whatever you like battery wise

I recommend you get these ones (make sure your battery specifications match the packaging in this photo):

• New battery day! 24 AA Eneloop NiMH batteries in 16 and 8 cell packs. : r/AAMasterRace
  
  Get this package first to get the highest quality charger on the market:
  
  
• AmazonSmile: Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries: PANASONIC: Electronics
  
• HKJ Review of Charger Panasonic BQ-CC17 - lygte-info.dk
  
  > A nice -dv/dt termination with only a small temperature increase and no trickle charge, this looks very good. [...] The charger is very good at filling the batteries.
  
  You need that charger to get the full life out of Eneloops. If you take care of them, Eneloops will last at least a decade, maybe longer. They achieve maximum longevity when you charge any time before they reach 60% depth of discharge (40% remaining capacity). So, if you charge them when they're half discharged or sooner, that's easy to remember.
  
  > Purpose: Main purpose - used to find correct door numbers when I am delivering in evenings
  >
  > Other uses would be as an emergency lighting source in my flat in case of a powercut and to take along with me when I'm on a motorbike again for emergency usage. If I could use it randomly in countryside settings where there is not much light pollution that would be great as well
  >
  > Size: Something easily held in one hand, not to head heavy and not too heavy, needs to fit in a backpack easily
  >
  > Type: Handheld
  >
  > Main Use: Whilst in residential areas shining light to find the right door numbers - IMPORTANT must not disturb residents with too much excess light
  
  You said you want handheld, but if you're using it from a motorbike while delivering, then it really sounds like what you need is a hands-free headlamp, but one that can also be used handheld. I did a search for you:
  
  
• http://flashlights.parametrek.com/index.html?type=headlamp&battery=1xAA+2xAA+3xAA+4xAA+5xAA+6%2BAA&runtime=_+_+dec&features=regulation&price=_+62
  
  I'm not sure how to use the search features to minimize the amount of spill light, but maybe u/parametrek can explain how to do that. I see beam angle, intensity, and throw that might be useful in filtering for that kind of feature, but I'm not sure if it's actually possible to filter that way.
  
  In any case, the Zebralight headlamps can be used handheld without the headlamp holder, and they include a pocket clip for that purpose too. I recommend the Zebralight H53c because it uses AA batteries:
  
  
• AmazonSmile: Zebralight H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI: Sports & Outdoors
  
• H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI - Zebralight
  
  The Armytek Tiara lights are similar, and imitate many of the features of Zebralights, so although I haven't used one myself, they get recommended often and they might be equally versatile as a handheld light - I just don't know if they come with a pocket clip. The quality of Armytek is good, but is praised less often than Zebralight. They might have some features that are different from Zebralight, in addition to a lower price, so they're worth considering.
  
  I almost always use my Zebralights without the headlamp strap, although I do use the silicone holder because it makes it easy to swivel and point the light. I put some zip ties on it for a lanyard so I can attach it to the exterior of my EDC bag, without risk of losing it. It's tiny, so it's convenient to always have it ready. I don't need to fish around in my bag or pocket to find it. I just tap the on-button, and go. I don't need to fumble with it or even bother to put it away when I'm done using it. I think in your job, that would be ideal for you too, because it will save you a ton of time, which adds up every time you use it.
  
  They do have some spill light, but you have fine control over the brightness, so you can dial it down to only the amount of light you need, and you can make the light on time very brief, even though the button isn't quite a momentary on switch, which would be ideal. The way you select brightness by clicking the button might be even more useful than a momentary on switch anyway, so you can minimize the amount of light you use to the point no one will notice you, even if they're nearby while you're shining your light.
  
  EDIT: Formatting.

Okay! With those parameters, assets, and budget, you have two good options.

The first, and probably easiest, will be doing exactly what /u/MacintoshEddie has suggested and throwing $400 at a local filmmaker and seeing what they can do with your well developed idea.

The second is, in my opinion, more fun, but it'll also require you to learn a little about filmmaking yourself.

The good news is, you already have most of the tools you need to create a "my first documentary" video and do it well. The camera on the iPhone 7 is better than any camera you're going to purchase below $200, and if you drop a couple bucks on a tripod and iphone adapter you're going to be set.

The biggest downside for you will be audio. Audio is the thing most fresh-faced filmmakers overlook, but it's just as-- if not more-- important as video quality. The onboard microphone in the iPhone is oooookay, but if you're more than 3 feet away from your subject, it'll get dicey. And unfortunately, this is the only place the iPhone falls short of a $250 Canon t2i.

Traditionally, there are two ways to do audio: in-camera and synced. In camera is when the audio and video are recorded together inside whatever camera you're using. This is a little tricky for the iPhone, because it's harder to attach a decent microphone. There are ways, but I'm not fluent in them. If this were a DSLR like the t2i mentioned above, I'd suggest you drop $150 for a Rode Videomic and call it a day. Since that's not an option (that I know of-- there might be a 3.5mm microphone jack adapter for the iPhone 7!), we need to look at the second audio solution: synced.

Synced audio is when you record the audio and video separately, and then synchronize them in post production. First off, post production is a fancy way of saying "editing the video." For professionals, there's a whole lot more than just editing, but for you, this'll be when you're bringing the footage onto your macbook and likely editing in iMovie.

For synced audio, the best option will be purchasing an $85 Tascam DR-05, a cheap microphone boom stand, and this adapter. Attach the DR-05 to the boom, throw something heavy on the base of the stand, and you'll have a good setup to capture audio for interviews and stationary events. However, you will need to "slate" each shot.

A slate is that black and white clapper board you see whenever film is depicted in media. It's purpose to to create a spike in the sound, as well as a visual indicator, so whoever is editing the footage can synchronize the audio and video. You can get away without a slate by simply clapping your hands in front of the camera.

If you go this route, I would suggest ONLY trying to do audio for interviews, and maybe stationary events where your camera won't move around. The audio captured on your iphone for "action" shots or "in the wild" shots will be okay as long as you have decent quality audio for the interviews. This will also save you time while editing, because syncing audio is a pain in the butt.

Now, if you haven't been scared away yet, and still want to spend a little money to make those interviews look extra-sexy, imma talk about some of my favorite lights on the market right now.

I've thrown together a $180 light kit for you that'll help you light your subjects in most lighting conditions. I use the YN600 Air for a key light (main light), and the YN300 for a fill light (remove unwanted shadows, dark background, etc). They're not as bright as some other LED options, but you won't need to worry about modifying the light at all. The YN Air series does a wonderful job of creating a nice, soft lightsource that won't screw with skintones or create harsh shadows. I've also thrown in two good stands that include a bag, and two power adapters to run the lights. If you want, you can spend an extra $60 on NPF batteries and chargers (I'd suggest these and then these ) to make the lights completely mobile). In addition to being excellent video lights, I've found I also keep my 300 set up in my room as a evening reading lamp!

Obviously, the lighting isn't necessary, but I promise you it'd be worth the investment when it comes to the final quality of your video. Both have an extremely easy learning curve, produce excellent results without needing to set up screens of diffuse, and their size makes them an afterthought when traveling.

So now that you're overwhelmed with all that info, let me recap!

Option 1) Have someone else do it!
Pros: You need to learn less, less stressful, less time spent on your end
Cons: Limited scheduling flexibility, $400 won't secure someone for months-on-end

Option 2) Do it yourself!
Pros: Complete control over the final product, working on your own time without worrying about other people, and new toys!
Cons: way more work, way more learning

Overall, you have two solid options to make this work. You could even combine the two: get the tripod and grab "on site" shots while paying someone else to produce your interviews. You'd still be up for editing, but you wouldn't have to worry about the nicer quality audio/syncing. With either option, you're going to end up being the producer/director of this video, which means you'll be doing the scheduling and coordinating, as well as creating the idea and communicating it exactly to everyone else you're working with.

Even though this may all seem really overwhelming right now, the best way to get the documentary done is to simply start working on it. Write up a summary of your vision, start asking around, and trust yourself to create something good. This subreddit is an excellent resource, as well as plenty of youtube channels and other forums out there. Additionally, if you ever have any questions, don't hesitate to shoot me a message. :)

Here's my little bits of advice:


Games with Gold: If you have an XBL gold membership, please 'buy' (xbox.com) the free games on both systems, even if you don't currently have one of them. If you don't have an XB1 yet, you're essentially just building a bigger potential library if you get the console in the future. If you're on XB1, you're creating a larger backwards compatible library.


Accessories: Add storage via nearly any USB 3.0 external hd (there's millions of suggestions for specific models via a search of this subreddit). I suggest Eneloops over the play-n-charge kit. XBL gold membership is roughly $35/year frequently, never pay full price and keep in mind it's "stack-able". Install SmartGlass on your mobile devices. Install the Xbox app on your Windows 10 devices.


Games/Values: If you're interested in any EA game, give EA Access a look ($30/year). Bing Rewards is a nice way to pad your digital wallet. Value-based subreddits I'd suggest: /r/GameDeals, /r/GreatXboxDeals and /r/ConsoleDeals. Weekly sales threads tend to pop up on /r/XboxOne before they're published, and if you want to see all current discounts check out storeparser.


Game Recommendations:
SMITE is a free-to-play moba that's become a go-to game for me a few times each week. It's easy to learn, but there's depth to keep you learning new strategies/skills even months after you've started. I really can't believe how much I like this game. I think everyone should at least try it.
Rise of the Tomb Raider is gorgeous, and it improves upon nearly everything the original reboot (already a good game) attempted. I love the game.
Sunset Overdrive is fun from start-to-finish, and it's one of the most unique games I've played. The art style is infectious, and I loved the game more each time I played it. However, I didn't particularly appreciate much of the multiplayer.
LEGO Marvel Super Heroes is a step above the other LEGO games, and it's an absolute hit for co-op sessions. Similarly, Diablo 3 excels at co-op, even if it's something that doesn't seem like a typical title for your group.
There's many others I'd recommend, but I'm sticking to the top-most I'd recommend to any new Xbox One owners. There's a ton of opinions you can find on this subreddit if you're interested in any game. Also, if you're not sure about something: look for Twitch streams or YouTube videos before you take the plunge.


Leftovers:
Always check out Friend Request Friday to find people you can play with. I love podcasts, here are my recommended podcasts. I use Feedrabbit to get e-mailed updates from Major Nelson.


Finally, I recommend helping out when you can by visiting the Mentor Monday threads. It's a very easy way to help, and (in my opinion) it's one of the best threads each week in this subreddit.

> To be frank, I don't fully understand all the differences yet. Any type of battery should be fine as long as it can be recharged or replaced fairly easily (i.e. via Amazon or regular hardware stores).

There's pretty much 1xAA, 2xAA, 1xCR123, 2xCR123, and 18650 (not all 18650 flashlights take CR123s!). CR123 is, IMO, a nicer form factor, for handling, but rechargeable energy density is crap, TBH. AA gives you the most versatility. But, avoid alkalines whenever possible, for flashlights. For AA size, depending on flashlight, either go with 14500, or Japan-made Eneloops (Duracell and Amazonbasics both have rebranded versions of these at good prices).

AA NIMH have a nominal voltage range of 1.0-1.25V. 14500 fit in the same space, with 3.6-4.2V, should a single AA flashlight allow greater voltage. Often, that will give you greater max output. OTOH, you'll have to be really careful if lending the light to anyone else. Today, though, most get pretty good output on AA NIMH. Japanese Eneloops are the best rechargeables out there, and can be found under Panasonic's name, Amazonbasics', and Duracell (if buying at a B&M store, look for made in Japan on the back). I've had those, and knock-offs (like Rayovac's), and over time, with real world use, the difference is not subtle. I have not used Chinese Eneloops, myself, but largely because reports by users, and tests on them, indicated similar behavior to the knock-offs I'd had. The Japanese ones just keep on going.

18650 is a little bigger than 2xCR123, and has a nominal voltage range of 3.6-4.2V. 2xCR123 have a nominal range of around 2.5-6V. 18650 has the most R&D going into it, being the most popular size (it's what is in laptops and power tools, among other things), so you get the most energy storage for the size, weight, and money. But, it does not have a comparable primary cell to swap it with, so make sure the flashlight in question can take 2xCR123 as backup (if not stated that way, make sure it can take at least 6V input).

You can get good chargers and batteries for $15-20 total, for about any handheld sizes (make sure to get a charger that has independent bays, if going AA NIMH - example), so your $75 budget is pretty realistic, and honestly, gives you tons of options.

Also, if you keep up with your rechargeable cells, costs of Lithium primary batteries (including AAA and AA) will not be much, in the long run. A leaky alkaline AA can do a lot of damage, so I would advise against using them if there is any other option; and the actual costs over time are fairly small, when you're usually just partially discharging the rechargeable cell(s) in between top offs, 90% of the time.

Panasonic-made CR123s are the quality ones to buy, if going that route for primaries. They can be had online for around $1.50/ea., so comparable with, or slightly cheaper than, AA Lithiums. You can also buy them at not-exorbitant prices at hardware stores and outdoors stores, and probably gun shops. Surefire, Streamlight, and Duracell, are all made at the same plant, and are all good quality. Some cheaper ones, like the popular Tenergy, are known for aging poorly, and getting unbalanced quickly. If mainly using rechargeable cells for day to day use, I don't think saving money that way provides good value.

> A good mix of throw and flood seems best. I don't want something too far toward either end of the spectrum.

While I'm not a big fan of their UIs (though the Pro does seem nicer than non-Pro, IMO), I think Armytek's TIR lights have the best balanced beams for EDCs, in the $40-60 range, with a wide spot, and plenty of flood.

Beyond DSLRs and mirrorless DSLMs (such as the A7 series), here are the cameras you might want to consider below $10,000 (in ascending price order):

Below $3000

In this category, I recommend the [$1999 Sony PXW-X70] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NPAJH8I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00NPAJH8I&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) professional camcorder.

This camera has a relatively large 1" sensor, pro XLR mic inputs, records to a broadcast quality 10-bit 4:2:2 codec, has an SDI out connection and a [$499 paid upgrade path] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2Fsocbkzx70fx.html) to 3840x2160p Ultra High Definition "4K" resolution.

In addition, the X70's optical steady shot system makes for very stable handheld shots, as seen in the walking shots in this travel piece: [San Blas Islands of Panama. December 2014.] (http://player.vimeo.com/video/119601178)

Here are a few more examples:

Documentary

• [Classic Days - Schloss Dyck 2015] (https://vimeo.com/135595246)
  
  
• [Documentary - Life of street performer from Japan] (https://vimeo.com/139793673) (intercut with the Canon T3i)
  
  Musical Performance
  
  
• [Chris August sings The Maker] (https://vimeo.com/118133998) (intercut with the Panasonic GH4)
  
  Here is the image quality this camera can produce after the 4K upgrade (please watch at 2160p and your monitor's highest resolution):
  
  
• [Test Sony PXW-X70 in 4K by magazinevideo] (https://youtu.be/iQDiCeoZwP4)
  
  
• [Sony pxw-x70 test 4K - Night view of Seoul, Korea by yoonkee sung] (https://youtu.be/MAYWXxBdWZQ)
  
  In my view, the X70 with the 4K upgrade is best all-in-one (power zoom lens included) 4K video solution you can get below $3000.
  
  Below $4000
  
  In this price class, I recommend the [$3495 4K Super 35mm JVC GY-LS300] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00USBVISE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00USBVISE&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).
  
  With the new v2.0 firmware update, it records to 4096x2160 Digital Cinema Initiative (DCI) 4K, as well as 3840x2160 Ultra High Definition (UHD), 2048x1080 DCI 2K and 1920x1080p HD (up to 60fps).
  
  It also has a flat LOG profile, which increases its dynamic range - and it has standard video camera features that still/video cameras lack: dual card slots, SDI out, a top handle, built in ND filters, etc.
  
  This is an 8-bit camera, but it has 4:2:2 color subsampling and will stand up to grading pretty well.
  
  Here's a UHD file shot with cine gamma (before the J LOG release):
  
  
• [“Honmonji Temple” in GY-LS300 by moribun] (https://vimeo.com/139214323) (downloadable if you're a Vimeo Plus or Pro member [if you're not, you can sign up [here] (http://vimeo.com/pro/new?utm_source=affiliate&utm_medium=prosubscribe-cj-vimeo-bizlander-300x250-20130424&utm_campaign=7696)])
  
  Here's a nice J-LOG piece from Dan Chung at newssshooter.com:
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 4K J-Log Vision] (https://vimeo.com/138523082) (not downloadable)
  
  And here's a very quick J-LOG camera shelf test at 4096x2160 Cinema 4K resolution from Gert Tetzner at avmediafactory:
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 Firmware 2.0 J-log ungraded] (https://vimeo.com/140984524) (downloadable for Vimeo Plus and Pro)
  
  A few more examples of the image quality this camera can produce:
  
  
• [GY-LS300 UHD 4K w/ Canon 70-200 and 85mm lenses] (https://youtu.be/QYCdxMrvAoA)
  
  
• [EVS’s test footage for the JVC GY-LS300 4K super 35 Cinema camera] (https://youtu.be/S47dceBcuJI)
  
  ...and 1080p on Vimeo:
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 Camera Test] (http://vimeo.com/122736335)
  
  
• [Breathing in New Life] (http://vimeo.com/120445118)
  
  A very nice overview from Zacuto:
  
  
• [First Look at JVC's GY-LS300] (http://vimeo.com/121192570)
  
  And a couple of useful reviews from Rick Young's Movie Machine:
  
  
• [One of a kind - shooting with the JVC GY-LS300] (http://vimeo.com/133929950)
  
  
• [Shooting with the JVC GY-LS300 & Micro Four Thirds Lenses] (http://vimeo.com/136918105)
  
  With a [$133.43 Commlite CM-EF-MFT adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011I2WWQ8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B011I2WWQ8&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), you can mount Canon lenses with aperture control and image stabilization enabled.
  
  I have shot with this camera - it is an easy-to-use, very high quality Super 35mm camcorder and a very good value for your money.
  
  Below $4500
  
  At [$4195, you might want to consider the new Panasonic AG-DVX200] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016043JWA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B016043JWA&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).
  
  With the DVX200, Panasonic has put a relatively large micro 4/3 sized sensor in a traditional camcorder form factor with a 13x fixed parfocal power zoom lens, 5-axis in-body stabilization, dual card slots, built-in NDs and 4K/60p.
  
  And it produces high quality images:
  
  
• [KYOTO - A Panasonic AG-DVX200 short film by Sebastian Wiegärtner] (https://vimeo.com/134622078)
  
  
• [A Day of Life by Panasonic Pro Video] (https://youtu.be/6dnPUE5LQLs)
  
  
• [A Day of Life Behind the Scenes by Panasonic Pro Video] (https://youtu.be/iuHqorCPfd4)
  
  And a nice first look from Zacuto:
  
  
• [Zacuto's First Look at the Panasonic DVX200 HD by Zacuto] (https://youtu.be/vb2e6YKRD_8)
  
  This camera type (fixed, non-interchangeable lens camcorder) limits your creative flexibility, but is ideal for events and run & gun, where changing lenses can sometimes slow you down.
  
  Below $5500
  
  In this price class, I recommend the new [$2995 shoulder mounted URSA Mini 4K] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FBMURSAM40KEF.html), which records RAW or edit-ready 10-bit ProRes 4:2:2 internally and is just now starting to ship. It has a Canon EF lens mount, so it is 100% compatible with your current lenses.
  
  The body is only $2995, but you'll need a [$1495 EVF] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WRB14EQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00WRB14EQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), a [$95 battery plate] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FBMURSAVLBPL.html), a [$285.49 CFast 2.0 card] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LL4QUTE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00LL4QUTE&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), a battery solution (such as this [$39.95 Sony L to V mount adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XIQ4Y8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B016XIQ4Y8&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and a couple of [$8.39 Sony L batteries] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)), and a [$395 shoulder mount kit] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FBMURSASHMKM.html) to get it up and running.
  
  Here are a few URSA Mini Image Quality Examples:
  
  
• [A wedding with the Ursa Mini 4K by The Dreamers] (https://vimeo.com/139130557)
  
  
• [#mydubai by Daniel Peters] (https://vimeo.com/146414106)
  
  
• [URSA Mini 4K | Christmas Spectacular, Hillsong Melbourne by Mat Sliwinski] (https://vimeo.com/149554465)
  
  
• [Blackmagic URSA Mini 4K by Norbert Bielan] (https://vimeo.com/145466251)
  
  
• [Blackmagic Ursa Mini 4k by Jsfilmz] (https://youtu.be/-m13NdGBcvM) (please watch at 2160p and your monitor's highest resolution)
  
  This camera is decent in low light with fast lenses (as seen in the sample videos), but not great.
  
  This camera also lacks built-in ND filters, so you'll need a matte box or screw-on NDs.
  
  That said, it has the best codecs among the cameras on this list and, in my view, will give you the highest quality images.
  
  Below $6000
  
  If you don't need the gradability and convenience of internal RAW recording, but you want internal ND filters, inexpensive SD card media, a small form factor and light weight (1.5 lbs. body-only) - you might want to consider the UHD [$5599 Sony FS5] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FSOPXWFS5.html).
  
  The FS5 can produce images that look like this:
  
  
• [Newsshooter.com Sony FS5 London anti war demonstration footage - graded by Dan Chung] (https://vimeo.com/147904573)
  
  
• [Iron Works - Blacksmithing with the Sony FS5 by OC Films] (https://vimeo.com/147975548)
  
  Below $8000
  
  In this price class, you should consider the shoulder mounted 4K [$7999 Sony FS7] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P7AK580/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00P7AK580&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). It is a proven doc camera with power zoom compatibility that has produced 1080p content for CNN and others.
  
  Here is the image quality this camera can produce:
  
  
• [The Wonder List: Yakel Village, Tanna, Vanuatu by Philip Bloom] (https://vimeo.com/119020133) (shot for CNN)
  
  
• [Arizona in Winter by Biff Malibu] (https://vimeo.com/118882037) (shot for the Super Bowl on NBC)
  
  Hope this is helpful, good luck with your upgrade - and Happy New Year!
  
  ...

Start slow:

The zoom kit (assuming we're speaking of one of the versions of EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6) will be great for:


a) Well lighted scenes (i.e., daylight)

b) Capturing wide images as well as mildly zoomed in images. Don't expect the extreme digital zooming of point and shoot cameras. The upside of your kit zoom being that it will not lose optical quality like those digital zooms.

c) Figuring out what it is you like to capture more. For example I like the isolation of subjects so I tend to use higher focal length lenses more often (think the 55mm end of your zoom instead of the 18mm).


What will you soon realize:

a) You want to take better images in low light. In this case you need to consider lenses with apertures (aka. f-numbers) of 2.8 or larger. Larger meaning a lesser number than 2.8. This number, the smaller it is, the wider it opens and lets in more light.

b) You have a predilection for one end or perhaps the middle of the focal length spectrum. You will then perhaps look for primes that have the wide aperture (2.8 or higher) OR a zoom that perhaps stays at 2.8 (these can get expensive so watch out!).

Many people get the Canon EF 50mm 1.8II because it works well for portraits and low light. Not ideal for inside the house in your camera because it has what we call a crop sensor. This means that your actual focal length will be the number on the lens, say 50, time a crop factor of 1.6. Read more into this on your own. Lots about it on Google and Youtube

OK, accessories:

I personally recommend aftermarket batteries. I bought these which even inculde a charger. Don't expect the same battery life as your original battery but it will get you out of binds. These are much cheaper, though. If money is not an issue then do as you wish

Post processing software might be something you need. Lightroom is a good way to start,I believe, but I personally use Photoshop. I'll let other experienced members chime in.

Asides from that you'll feel certain needs as time goes on. Your lens will get dirty and you'll need a lens cleaner (look online for best reviews, etc.) Many people like the lens pen, btw.

Anyway you get the point. But the most important thing is to go out and enjoy your camera. This is a beautiful hobby that brings peace, appreciation, and excitement to a lot of people. It can also bring frustration but keep a positive and curious attitude and you'll see your photography improve a lot.

One last thing! Learn these concepts... Aperture, Shutter Speed, and ISO. Learn what they are and how they interact to provide an exposure/image. This is crucial, imo.

Hi /u/sanityrepresent - I own the BMPCC , and with the right setup, it can be a good, inexpensive first camera. But first you have to fix the few things that make it a challenge to shoot with out of the box, e.g. the tight crop, the "iPhone-like" ergonomics, the dim LCD and the short battery life.

Crop

You absolutely need a wide angle lens to shoot indoors with this camera. I have an old Olympus 11-22mm f2.8-3.5 with a Panasonic DMC-MA1 adapter that gives me a full frame equivalent 32-63mm. But it was expensive. If I was starting again from scratch, and couldn't afford a Speed Booster, I would get a [used Nikon mount Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 for about $400] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2FLenses-%2F3323%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3Dtokina%2B11-16mm%2Bnikon%26rt%3Dnc%26LH_BIN%3D1) and an [inexpensive Nikon G to micro 4/3 adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TROEBM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003TROEBM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (this is the adapter I use for my Nikon lenses).

Ergonomics

Yes, you can buy or build a shoulder mount - but that can be expensive and/or time consuming. I built my own for less than $200 and I love it ([here] (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QW78g2jQbeU/U2mZ-aV32NI/AAAAAAAAIzg/E4d9v8aCmME/w963-h543-no/P1080600.JPG)'s a photo - I'll post the parts list if you like), but it turns out I don't use it much.

Instead, I use a [$24 pistol grip with a trigger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=221603818145&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) - just like my old Super 8 cameras from 40 years ago. With the right stance, it works great to keep the camera steady and is a lot less hassle than my rig.

You will also need a [$10 cold shoe] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJFBUCQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00HJFBUCQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) if you want to mount a mic, light or recorder on top of the camera.

LCD

It is very difficult to see the LCD outdoors (or even indoors, in a brightly lit room). The best solution for this problem is an LCD Viewfinder. I bought a Kinotehnik LCDVF BM ([$118 at B&H] (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1013082-REG/kinotehnik_lcdvfbm_blackmagic_pocket_2ea_mounting_plates_soft.html), [$159 at Adorama] (http://www.adorama.com/LCDVFBM.html?KBID=66297)).

With the pistol grip and the LCD Viewfinder, this camera becomes a joy rather than a pain to handle. Here is a pic of my setup: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f3hbYYV_y8o/VHDp77GMxoI/AAAAAAAAJF8/xnHRvNcCm5o/w724-h543-no/P1020575.JPG


Battery

I started out by buying a bunch of spare batteries, but that was unmanageable, so I am getting a [$70 belt clip adapter for my Sony camcorder batteries] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LPJ1FJ0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00LPJ1FJ0&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). If you don't have any of these batteries laying around, you can [buy them for $10] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). They have twice the capacity of Blackmagic batteries and cost less. I would get at least two of them plus a [$17.50 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=321347920244&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) (I have one of these for my Sony batteries and they work great).

With this setup, you will have an easy to shoot with, affordable, RAW/10-bit ProRes Super 16 camera with 13+ stops of dynamic range for about $1675 all in.

Good luck!

HCR

You're an awesome girlfriend by default, FYI. :)

> What is the best camera?

Eh, it's a debatable point. The newest/latest/greatest is the Hero3+ Black Edition. However, last year's flagship model, the Hero3 Black Edition, is still quite fantastic and probably the more preferable model right now because of some possible focus issues with the Hero3+ BE.

> Does it take pictures too?

heck yeah, check out their instagram for a few samples.

> Does it need an sd card or some sort of disk for recording?

Yep, you'll/he'll need a micro SD card with a minimum read/write speed. GoPro has a list of acceptable cards here

> Is there anything else I should buy with it that would be necessary such as an extra battery or a stand or something?

The battery life isn't fantastic... it wouldn't hurt to grab a wasabi battery set on amazon. A lot of us use/like them as a generic alternative.

Also, there's a billion and a half mounts for GoPros available from both GoPro and 3rd party manufacturers. Depending on what he'll do with the camera, he may need/want one or the other. You COULD get him one/some of these, but I think it'd probably be better to let him decided what's best for how he'll use it.

Good luck, and keep being an awesome GF!

Hey man, I meant to reply to you earlier, but I was going to work.
The issue you described is similar to an issue I had just over a year ago, except it was an el cheapo Walkman FX-28 but nonetheless, it could help. Read my post and listen to my sample audio. Skip around to near the end for more distortion. I eventually figured out that every battery I was putting in there was drained. I know it sounds stupid and insults your intelligence a bit, but try fresh alkaline batteries. None of that cheap Sunbeam or dollar store blue Panasonic bullshit. I'm talking straight Duracell and Energizer. Even better though, Panasonic Eneloops Best rechargeable batteries on Planet Earth period. Plus IIRC, your Walkman uses 4 batteries and this pack comes with 4 precharged batteries as well as a simple, yet effective charger.

Now, I also happened to disassemble my Walkman at the same time as when I changed my batteries to fresh ones. It may have been that I freed something, possibly the belt, that may have been previously stuck or grinding somewhere causing my issue. I know your issue isn't speed, but I had distortion as well.

Your issue might also be most likely due to your dirty volume potentiometer. Get some DeoxIT and spray that bitch and rock it back and forth. I forget the right kind to use, but luckily, I made a post on TapeHeads.net asking exactly that question. Read the long reply and you'll know what to use.

90%, this is your solution right here, provided your batteries are fresh and nothing else is horribly wrong with your Walkman. I read that the D6 and D6C have problems with grease turning to glue and it's pretty common. That can cause at best, some wow and flutter and at worst, tape eating or refusing to work at all. You should look at getting it fixed by the guy in Slovakia who goes by Dr. Walkman, mihokm, or Marian. He does excellent work on restoring these things.

Hope this helps.

Not paid by Panasonic, just my honest opinion.

Hi /u/misdy - welcome to /r/videography! I am a big fan of ring lights because you only need one to get nice, even light.

With two or three, it looks like you have a whole studio full of lights.

I started out with a [$120 AC powered Ring Light] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1V6QAU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00B1V6QAU&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), which I bought after I saw this review: http://www.lafcpug.org/reviews/review_diva_ring.html

This is a fabulous light, but I needed a light that was battery powered and portable - so I bought a small, but powerful [$199 F&V R-300 Ring Light] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AY0J4OY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00AY0J4OY&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) with a [$25 Milk Diffusion Filter] (http://www.adorama.com/FVMWDR300.html?KBID=66297).

Here is what the lights look like on a [$28 pair of light stands] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001WB02Z4&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20): https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jrqsQtPN3TU/U1sjz3-jwnI/AAAAAAAAIt4/k2WveyQeO4o/w724-h543-no/P1120732.JPG

The R-300 runs on either a 12V AC adapter or a [$10 Sony camcorder battery] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). I bought a couple of them along with a [$19 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=321347920244&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg).

You can also buy a [$40 rail mount] (http://www.adorama.com/FV15RMR300.html?KBID=66297) for it and put it on a set of 15mm rails. This light does a great job in the field as well as in the studio.

Here it is on my camera: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rhqiHavOnGM/U1J4paO2vRI/AAAAAAAAIrk/eW1mhniD0gY/w724-h543-no/P1120708.JPG

Two F&V lights, two stands, a couple of milk filters, two batteries and a dual charger and you'll have a pair of cool, powerful and compact portable lights that will fit into very small spaces - all for about $500.

Hope this is helpful!

Bill

Batteries - $22 - https://www.amazon.com/Powerextra-DMW-BLC12E-DMW-BLC12PP-DMC-FZ1000-DMC-FZ300K/dp/B01IMQAVDY/ref=sr_1_19?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1518114737&sr=1-19&keywords=panasonic+g7 - Always used these and they've never let me down. G7 lasts a good 5-6 hrs of shooting, but another battery can get me through an entire day.

Luckily for audio stuff, audio isn't much of a concern, but if you need something, the VideoMicro is only around $50.

Bag choices are endless and i really cant recommend one simply because there are so many options. Look at B&H or amazon. I use the Lowepro Transit Sling (around $35) when i'm traveling. In general, lowepro makes a ton of good options that aren't crazy. I also love the Canon 100DG or 200DG bag for something a little bit bigger

For lighting there are a couple ways to go. On the ultra cheap side, you can essentially DIY a lighting setup using home depot clamp lights and/or work lights. But that's like emergency level broke. You're better off just saving up and picking up either a few budget LED panels or I also REALLY like the older Lowell Pro light kits that you can get used. They're tungsten hard light kits but are great as a solo shooter. I picked up a 4 light (200w/each) kit on ebay with stands, gels, diffusion, case, etc, for around $200. For LED panels, i recommend looking at the Yongnuo YN300iii. It's $60 but it's better than most LED options under $100. Keep in mind that you will need a stand ($20) and batteries ($20).

For memory, pretty much any UHS-1 speed card from a major manufacturer will work. You can get away with 32gb but you'll probably just want to pony up for a 64gb. It's up to you though. I use various sandisks. Here is a good one - https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-32GB-UHS-I-SDSDXXG-032G-GN4IN/dp/B01J5RHBQ4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518115492&sr=1-3&keywords=sandisk+extreme+uhs-1+32gb

I'll keep adding stuff as i think of it

I have the Hero3 black and it works great. I record at 720p 60fps wide and get around 40 minutes per battery. Obviously there are some improvements with the later models but if you're mainly looking to record while riding for insurance/dashcam purposes the Hero 3 will work just fine. If you are interested in making high quality videos or using the camera elsewhere then I would maybe consider the Hero3+ or waiting for the Hero4.

The curved sticky mount that came with works great on the top of my helmet. I'm not sure how to mount on the chin, sorry. As long as your mount is secure the video will be nice and smooth.

I would highly recommend picking this bundle from Amazon - includes 2 batteries and a wall charger: http://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-AHDBT-201-AHDBT-301-AHDBT-302/dp/B00AAIPT76/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409372144&sr=8-1&keywords=go+pro+battery

If you have any other questions let me know.

>Basically I'm looking for one that runs on AA batteries, is relatively easy to pocket or doesn't take up too much space on my duty belt; something decently bright to cut through foliage and search for objects/people.

>I've been looking at the Nitecore EA41/21 and MT2A.

"Cut through foliage". So you're looking for something with good throw/tight hotspot? Just remember, the larger the reflector, the more throw. The EA21/MT2A isn't going to have the throw that the EA41 has due to the smaller reflector on them. There's really no good throwers in those smaller sizes but for the EA41 size, I'd suggest getting the Thrunite TN41 XP-L HI instead which puts the EA41 to shame. This guy is 5mm shorter but 5mm wider but the thing that excels in this guy is the XP-L HI emitter which is designed for even more improved throw over other emitters on the market.

As many suggest, rechargeable are the way to go which I'll show you. I've actually borrowed the EA41 from my buddy to test which here is the runtime on High output. As you can see the NiMH rechargeable Eneloop batteries put both Energizer and Rayovac to shame. Yes Eneloop may be more expensive up front but they can be recharged up to 2000 times. So even though we know in the graph that 4 Eneloop batteries out-perform 4 Alkaline batteries, lets just pretend that they were equal. So you can get a 4 pack with a charger for $18 which would replace at least 8000 Alkaline batteries (4 rechargeable AA x 2000 recharge cycles). Can you get that many Alkalines for that price? Buy a backup 4 pack and you just replace another 8000 batteries along with having a backup of your own set so you'll always have a fresh set of batteries waiting on the charger.

One note, if you ever do think you'll get into Lithium-Ion batteries, I'd suggest getting a different charger like the Nitecore D4. I have this guy which can charge both Li-ion & NiMH batteries of many many sizes.

As for Lithium-Ion flashlight suggestions (just to throw them out there), the Armytek Predator XP-L HI is nearly best in class which it should have the same throw as the Thrunite mentioned above. It has a 5mm smaller head, obviously the body is thinner, but it's 40mm longer due to the tail-switch. Also check out the Nitecore MH27 which is nearly similar but has a little better user interface. An added note for the Predator that uses an 18650 Li-ion battery, a single high capacity 18650 battery out-performs over 6 AA Alkaline batteries, even though it's not much bigger than one. This means you can get more power and runtime in smaller applications. Plus these can be recharged as well for 500 cycles so they replace over 2500 AA batteries.

As someone who has scratched their lenses with their glasses, PLEASE buy some sort of lens protectors! I bought these in black https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3653631

And while not needed I also purchased the 3D printed brackets for the DAS mod. I bought the first design, but I think they have improved a bit since then.

I would also highly recommend the AMVR facial interface, it has a cut out specifically for glasses and it is super comfortable. https://www.amazon.com/AMVR-Interface-Bracket-Leather-Replacement/dp/B07VT3BM7P

I also bought the VR cover DAS padding because the DAS started to hurt the back of my head. the VR cover padding is AMAZING! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0749JN5G7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Finally, I picked these up rechargeable batteries and they hold a charge for a really long time. I would highly recommend them. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSMJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope this list helps!

Hey... not too much to ask at all -

​

Here are the links to the battery mount and cable I am using. Here is the one similar on Amazon that has the correct cable attached but this is not the setup I have.

​

Here is the smallrig mount that is on the Crane 2 that my battery mount is attached to.

​

I have also mounted this SSD case directly on the crane 2 under the camera and it works perfectly since the ssd and crane move together so you can use a short USB-C cable.

​

Hopefully that helps. Good luck setting your up. I'm loving it!

The corner / wall method is your best option for minimal equipment. White walls are best, grey walls would work too. You will need a single flash or strobe with a cheap light stand / umbrella, and ideally a tripod / tethered laptop to make sure shots are consistent and ensure exposure looks good. Normally you would need a trigger for the flash, but you can use your pop-up flash as an optical trigger without affecting the exposure (covered in the video I linked below).

Cheap Stand / Umbrella ($29): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HR0M4Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap / Reliable Flash ($63): https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Professional-Wireless-Speedlight-Flashlight/dp/B00EVMIHPS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510120921&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=yongnuo+yn+560&psc=1&smid=A23V097EB9TP7J

And the following items are not 100% necessary, but you can use them for anything in your house, not just the flash - and these batteries are fantastic.

Rechargable Batteries with Charger ($18): https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-K-KJ17MCA4BA-Individual-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00JHKSMJU/ref=pd_bxgy_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RVHZJ9CHST6PRESKD9YC

8-Pack Rechargable AA Batteries ($19): https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-BK-3MCCA8BA-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00JHKSN5I/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510121000&sr=1-3&keywords=eneloop&dpID=51JN-N5n6NL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Here's a video explaining single speed light portraits: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQCtYqqt5lk&t=960s
They have some similar videos too, worth checking out.

Just get your settings right with test shots, shoot raw, shoot full manual with an aperture of 5.6 or 8, ISO 100, 1/200 of a second. Your flash through umbrella will probably be at 1/4 or 1/8 power. The closer the light source is to the subject, the softer the light will be. Check your histogram to make sure you aren't blowing out any highlights. Tell people to wear basic, neutral clothes for the shoot, ideally not white, and have them all bring one alternate outfit just in case.

There is a lot that goes into it, but just watch some YouTube videos (Tony Chelsea, Gavin Hoey on Adorama), practice a bit with yourself, friends, family, and you'll be good to go.

If you have any other questions about it, feel free to PM me!

Edit: As far as lenses go, use the 50mm 1.8. It's the sharpest lens in your kit. Don't use it wide open, shoot at f5.6 or higher, and make sure your subject is about 5-6 feet from the wall behind them.

> Would prefer something with a standard battery, but a rechargable is just fine.

You are in luck, "standard" batteries are already rechargeable. Here are some rechargeable AAs and a charger.

And here are AA powered lights that aren't black. The Klarus Mi7 is a popular option. The Olight S2A even glows in the dark.

Are you sure you don't want a headlamp too? Most of those activities mentioned would be better served with both hands free.

I found these:

Goingpower

Maximal Power

Celltime

I have the first two, but to be honest I can't be sure which one is still good. I am almost positive it's the one I got for free from buying a shitty off brand charger and the battery has no brand at all.

I'd actually like to try the last one, as it holds more charge than the other ones, but I'm happy with Maximal Power. They sell a two pack for 30 bucks, if you have amazon prime it's 2 day free shipping.

Edit: Again, I can tell you if I have the money to blow, I'd get all name brands, but neither my 60D nor my 5Dmkii complained. I had my 60D two years and change, and my 5Dmkii since last august and it was used.

Does that include everything, like you need audio equipment to fit the $1k budget too?

Assuming that's the case, here's what I would buy...

The Panasonic G7 camera kit, the Rode Filmmaker wireless mic kit, and the Rode VideoMicro. Grab some spare batteries for the camera while you're at it. Rechargeable batteries for the mic are also a good idea.

That's the best video kit you can get on that budget right now.

The G7 is a great camera, easily the best 4k video for the money, and you absolutely have to have the audio gear for interviews, and good video in general.

Use the wireless mic for interviews, and the VideoMicro for b-roll and everything else.

Also, fyi, the a7 doesn't do 4k video anyway.

No worries; I saw your replies come in over notifications and noticed the same thing. I checked with the mods, and we think it's just some weirdness with Reddit, since it looks like they're having some errors right now.

You are correct that I would not suggest running 4 IFRs.

The voltages you found are nominal voltages at rest; under load, the voltages will drop, especially when the motors overdraw the motors as much as with Alkalines and their measly 500 mA current capabilities. NiMH cells are much more capable while still being far more stable than 14500 (AA-sized) li-ion cells like the Coolooks, so their voltage while the motors are spun up should be higher than Alkaline cells. For example, Eneloops are capable of providing 10 A, though they are on the top end of the spectrum of NiMH cells.

​

To your other question about AA-sized cells to safely hit 85 fps, that's not possible without modification. With NiMH cells like Eneloops and a rewire to remove most of the highly resistive components, you might hit 85 fps with a Rayvenfire (white) or Elite (Blue) Rayven. I'm less certain about the original (green) or Stinger (yellow) Rayvens since they were build for the N-strike range, which had much lower fps than the Elite line.

On Eneloops alone, I'd expect a 5-10 fps boost, and an another 5-10 fps from a rewire.

Eneloops are generally considered the best NiMH cells based on a number of tests as well as general availability. You can get them on Amazon for pretty cheap, or you can also pick up rewrapped cells (the same internal cell with a different label) like the AmazonBasics rechargeable batteries or the Ikea Ladda batteries.

​

My concern is less for the motors heating up and more for the batteries and battery contacts heating up. The fps numbers you recorded seem to support* that something isn't quite right. A stock Rayven on an 11.1 V 3S lipo should hit 105-110 fps pretty consistently. 4 Coolooks form an effective 12.8 V 4S pack; with a 1.7 V nominal increase over the lipo, I would expect higher fps, not a median 10-15 fps lower. That said, if the circuit is highly resistive (bleeding voltage to heat) and the cells are overdrawn and sagging, that would explain lost fps.

​

​

* FPS readings do have some variance Chrono to Chrono, so it's not perfect.

I know using 18650s is trendy (and pretty easy if you use an amp board from Parts Express, they sell battery holders that plug right into the boards) but I’ve been a big fan of using a removable battery pack (with its own safety circuit), like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RNnoDbP0KDB6R


I built a mid sized boombox using these: https://reddit.com/r/diysound/comments/7ph3ck/update_pelican_550_budget_audiophile_boombox/

Using this type of battery makes it easy to swap batteries instead of recharging them inside the unit (I use industrial velcro to keep them secure inside the boombox), and like I said, they already have safety circuits. I like to put an externally visible volt meter on the power switch circuit so you can know how charged your battery is too.

One limitation is you’ll be limited by the amperage of the safety circuitry on the battery configuration you choose. With 18650s you can get a lot more wattage depending on how you configure them, with the battery I suggested you’re limited to 3 amps at 12 volts, so 3 x 12 = 36w total

I only carry a few things when I travel and a laptop is NOT one of it as I'm in vacation and I don't want to work on my vacation haha. However, of the few things I need, I'd buy the Anker dual port 12w charger, chafon multi cable, and the nitecore F1. All this along with my iPhone x.

The Anker charger is as compact as those included apple iPhone chargers but dual port and a lot stronger. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFWKBF7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-EDUBbF3SX63E)

The chafon multi charging cable is short and convenient. It has all the typical cables you'd need in one package. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0786Z3VQD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bODUBb73TK1NH)

The Nightcore F1 is basically a battery bank the size of an 18650. You can also replace the battery or use the battery to charge it. It's not a very fast charger but it's small and gets the job done. I'd only use this for emergencies. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FUBULC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8PDUBbY42WQNQ)

This is really all the electronics I need and they're all compact enough to fit in the palm of your hand (no bagging?! JK...) The iPhone x handles the computer, camera, and entertainment portion perfectly fine for me.

The only thing I'm still on the look out for is a pair of high quality but affordable Bluetooth speaker ear buds for podcasts.

I got this dummy battery: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D69P0UG/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1VL3TRKDA8UWZ&colid=OFFMLV3I01BI

It works pretty well. I'm able to even use the built in flash while powering the camera with it, so it'll be more than capable of powering it for use as a webcam.

One thing that I have heard of happening with it is static in the recorded audio if using an external mic going into the camera.

The wall adapter outputs 8.8v, which is within the safe power range for the camera. The camera says it takes 8.4v, though I found that if you drop down to 8.4v, you sometimes get error messages saying something along the lines of "this battery is not supported", and the camera shuts down. Something to do with external power sources requiring a higher voltage than batteries.

I personally don't even use the AC adapter with mine, I use one of those USB to 9v adapters (I made mine, but there are plenty on Amazon) and a USB battery bank to deliver power to the dummy battery. (If you do this, make sure the battery bank is capable of 5v2a output) [Note: The flash does not work when powering it off a USB battery bank as it draws too much power. Though with your use, you should be fine.]

The longest I tested this was about 1.5 hours of 1080p30fps recording (I was observing whether or not there are any skipped frames between each file that the recording gets split into, and I didn't see any). It worked fine, and the camera still works fine. It was also able to handle 4K30fps recording just fine as well.

If you decide to go the safer route and just get more batteries, I've heard these are great: https://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-DMW-BLC12E-DMW-BLC12PP-DMC-FZ1000/dp/B0050K6GH6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511672411&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=wasabi+power+lumix+g7&psc=1

This very well may have been my friends, as we usually extend our sessions after the sun goes down.

We have a couple of these headlamps. Cheap, and super bright. They have a zoom function so you can concentrate the light as needed:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QAAZY00?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

Then we use these as floodlights. Not super durable, but very bright and cheap, and the brightness is adjustable via dial.

http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=pd_bxgy_421_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0BFHGB0K90J2N6SASFDM

http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Replacement-NP-F550-Digital-Battery/dp/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=pd_sim_421_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51DW8ndgtKL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1QD2ST71K4MTG47GN6J7

http://www.amazon.com/niceEshop-NP-FM50-Np-f330-Np-f550-Np-f570/dp/B000OPB4U6/ref=pd_bxgy_421_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0BFHGB0K90J2N6SASFDM

Two is enough to light up anything but really big problems. We combine those with the headlamps and have been able to light up things like High Plains Drifter enough to get good video in the middle of the night.

Trust me, this is what you want. Most of the people who have climbed with us end up asking me later what lights we were using so they can buy some for themselves.

It looks nice I have a H4S so I cant use it as its only for the 3+. However personally because it is in place of the backdoor I dont know how safe the camera would be because of the extra weight if it were to fall and hit between the hinge and the battery.

The brunton case is "only" 4000mah, but if it were me I would purchase an external battery pack you can get a 10000-15000mah battery pack for under $25 and a set of extra batteries either of these would do, you can charge them with the external battery pack and will have WAY more than enough life to last you days of recording. For the price smatree looks the best it has a three channel charger so you could charge your gopro battery outside of its case as well.

These links are for the Hero 4 but they have the same batteries for the hero 3's as well.

Newmowa $19

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NYKTN60/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=XWVGO54S0UHL&coliid=I8IYLLB5U1SQM

Wasabi $24

http://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-Battery-AHDBT-401-AHBBP-401/dp/B00OAAUZO2/ref=pd_cp_p_1

Smatree $20

http://www.amazon.com/Smatree%C2%AE-1290mAh-Replacement-3-Channel-Camcorder/dp/B00OT7N2ZA/ref=pd_cp_p_0

I brought 3 batteries, including the original GoPro battery. I bought this and used a solar charger as a backup but ended up not needing it at all. I got the solar charger for $50 at Lowe's, surprisingly.

EDIT: I also only brought the 3-way mount and chest mount. It worked perfectly. Wish I'd brought the headmount; sparpole climbing would've been pretty cool.
Tip: learn how to use the camera and how you want to be able to edit the footage when you're done. I moreso learned how to use the camera on this trip.

I needed to extend my Rift too and didn't want to have issues so did homework just as you. After getting a recommended HDMI repeater that didn't work (not sure if it was the cable or repeater but I think the cable was bad) I looked again and discovered I could use a Vive Link Box w/this psu, which definitively works well.

It's an active HDMI/USB repeater made for VR and is also not finicky about cables or long runs or what gpu you have or what you ate for dinner last night. As a bonus, it also has a mini displayport input as well as hdmi which is what I use since I only have 1 port on my card and it's running to my projector. Very nice to have a clean breakout box to plug into in my living room as my computer is in the bedroom.

Correct about he batteries, but don’t buy a cheap charger. You’ll spend an extra $4 for the best on Amazon...

Amazon Link

If you check the reviews on Amazon there is a guy that give extensive reviews on batteries and chargers. He’s really impressed by this one and this price.

I can confirm it’s been great. Charges all brands, and doesn’t require charging 2 at a time like the cheaper chargers.

the gopro hero has nice quality. but i would not recommend it to most people, especially those that refer to themselves as "techheads". it has limited frame rates and resolutions, which is fine, the lack of slow motion rears it's ugly head very quickly after the first use. but more importantly than that, it is missing expandability. no swappable batteries and no support for backpacks at this moment in time... no lcd backpack, no wifi backpack, no battery backpack. this wouldn't be a huge deal if it had wifi built-in, but it doesn't have that either.

buy the best gopro you can afford. that may mean buying used, but as long as you check it out thoroughly before agreeing to anything, you could save some serious money. do not forget to budget accessories while crunching numbers. you will probably want extra batteries and a gopole of some kind right away. then after a while of playing with the stuff, head over to /r/goprodiy for ideas on pretty awesome, and usually cheap mounts.

i would definitely watch your video and give it an honest critique. i'm looking forward to it! but you need to realize that i am only a couple months ahead of you editing/filmmaking-wise so while i can offer suggestions, i make no claims of being inerrant.

Two thoughts:

1. Nothing about this particular charging solution is specific to the iPhone XR. You can use it with an iPhone XR, but you can also use it with any other iPhone which supports wireless charging.
   
2. I'm not especially interested in paying $119.99 for the convenience of charging my iPhone XR and my Apple Watch at the same time. That's a lot of money to pay for convenience.
   
   With that said, Belkin is a respected manufacturer, and the product looks fine to me. Buy it if you want it ... but no, I wouldn't consider it to be a good deal.
   
   For anyone who's curious, here's my solution:
   
   

• A dual-port Anker charger with foldable prongs (for travel): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFWKBF7/
  
• Anker wireless charging pad: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DBX67NC/
  
  To charge my Watch, I use the cable that was included with the Watch. Total cost: about $32. It isn't as fancy or elegant as the Belkin all-in-one setup, but it's a heckuva lot cheaper.

Ah, there are external batteries that you can power the flash with, so that's what that cord would be for.

>So if I buy the Eneloops batteries I also need some sort of AC adapter charger for it? How do you recharge your Eneloops?

Correct. I'd just buy something like this kit which gets you 4 AAs and the charger. From then on, you just need more batteries (unless you want more chargers).

Thankfully Panasonic was wonderfully smart and made the chargers fit both AA and AAA, so if you decide to buy AAAs in the future you already ahve a charger with this kit. The AmazonBasics High Capacity Batteries are similar and do charge in the Eneloop chargers (I have Amazon batteries for use in things other than my speedlight).

  I hiked Mt. Kilimanjaro last month over the course of 7 days.  Our group of three all had gopros and we each brought 5-7 batteries and an external battery pack.  <br />
  <br />
  Our 12000mAh battery would charge gopro batteries about 8-12 times depending on original/wasabi capacity.  I ended up only going through more than one battery on two of the days I think.  If you turn the camera off when you stop recording the battery lasts fairly long even in cold conditions (It would get down to 15 degrees F at night (-10 C)).  <br />
<br />
  As for memory cards I brought four 32g cards.  I like to have several smaller capacity cards instead of one big one in case one accidentally gets wiped or the data gets corrupted.  I ended up shooting ~60g over the seven days, including several long timelapses.  For a three week trip I would recommend two 64g cards if possible, or better yet four 32g cards.  <br />

I also brought a panning base (its a glorified egg timer) and got a few cool timelapse shots of sunrises and a few of the camps. Shot everything at 1080 60fps for video and 2s intervals for timelapses and turned out great.

Here are all the links. Good luck!

Anker 12000mAh External Battery
http://www.amazon.com/12000mAh-Portable-External-Technology-Smartphones/dp/B00CEZBKTO/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1410496236&sr=1-8&keywords=anker

Wasabi USB 2 Pack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAZWWDA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SanDisk Extreme 32g MicroSD
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FRHTXW2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Panning Base
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AJIZBWA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did a research about the Explorer (since I noticed that people love their Explorers and they said good things about it) so I got interested in it as well and I think I can reccommend you to **not use the flip up display thing since it is sensitive and it can break easily** (instead use the Flashlight feature that allows you to see the real world using its cameras without taking off the HMD)

​

As for the BT donle I heard good things about this **Plugable BT dongle** :

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538640779&sr=1-4&keywords=bluetooth+4.0+dongle

Also some GPUs require the right display port (in order to get 90 fps at max and not only 60 fps) so I am also going to buy the **Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter**

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0C7QO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

And I found that the best rechargeable AA batteries are these of Eneloop (I am also going to buy the standard charger they have with it) :

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSMJU/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?pd_rd_i=B01G3SS04A&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=KS01C5W02E586HF605CW&pd_rd_wg=E0zRf&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=M28DE&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=2f98b6c6-cc99-11e8-9fea-e722222b4194&th=1

​

These are the stuff I decided to buy for my yet to be purchased Explorer after doing my research.

I've had plenty of success with the Windcamp kit. I have yet to run it down completely while doing SOTA, but I don't usually operate for more than an hour. That said, I'm running 5w SSB the whole time.

For more juice, and if I care a little bit less about weight, I'll run the internal rechargeable pack in combination with this lovely little pack. There's also the option of just removing the internal pack in this case, but I like having a "reserve" battery.

At some point, I'd like to have a BioEnno LiFePO4, perhaps 6-9 amp-hours or so. And I'd combine this with some sort of solar charging setup. But for now, the above seems to cover most of my needs.

I bought a Vive Link Box to use as a signal/power booster in the middle, and it works great. This cured all my dropouts and audio glitches, as well as giving my system a Bluetooth radio.

This setup works great:

1. Vive Link Box
   
2. Vive Link Box Power Supply
   
3. 12 ft Power cable extension for Vive Link Box
   
4. 10 ft USB 3.0 extension cable
   
5. 10 ft Amazon Basics HDMI cable
   
6. Wire wrap to keep everything tidy
   
   Make sure you power cycle the Vive Link Box whenever you plug or unplug anything into it to for it to reinitialize and detect the headset.
   
   I really wish there was a more elegant solution, but so far this works the best for me.

If you want to build it yourself: you are on the right track.

If you want a (almost) ready solution, then this might be what you are looking for. It's a simple 11.1V - 3S case with (5V) buck converter and a BMS. You should test if your horn works down to 9V. If that's the case then this will be an excellent solution.

>Given the voltage and current requirements, should I expect to be able to build this in a convenient handheld size and weight form factor?

This will depend on your usage. You should test the horn and calculate it's power consumption.

>Does a 4S system sound reasonable here? If so what kind of battery protection and charge circuit am I looking for?

As stated above, you need to test your horn to test its voltage range.

>Can I reasonably charge a 4S system from USB? Is there a convenient boost converter board out there to do this, or built into a 4S battery management board?

For simplicity I would go for a dedicated 3S or 4S charger.

>Should I instead consider a single cell battery system with a DC-DC boost to drive the load? That would seem easier to charge and manage the battery, but 3.7V to 12-14V at 10A seems like it might be a hefty boost converter.

14V * 10A = 140W.

140W/3.0V = 46A

You'd need to draw 46A from your 1S pack of cells.

​

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JHKSMJU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1454245244&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=eneloop+charger&dpPl=1&dpID=51tDWQtYtwL&ref=plSrch

May be what you're looking for. Purchased two myself and they work like a charm. Amazing reliability and simplicity. Pretty well priced too for about 30% cheaper than a play and charge and could effectively run two controllers.

Edit: can also be used to charge AAA batteries in the same charger as long as they are the appropriate type.

I've used power extra and Opteka and Wasabi power

Initially they'll all perform the same as the OEM battery but wont last more than a year or two depending on how often you use them.

I'd go with wasabi they have reasonable brand recognition. Pretty popular 3rd party gopro battery supplier. Probably lasts longer than the other lesser known brands but I managed to loose my wasabi battery so I can't vouch for it's longevity.

Still better than buying a bunch of Canon batteries if you're going to be going through a bunch of them in a day.

But if you just need an extra battery you might want to just invest in the Canon branded one since it will last for years.

Since I usually just use my t3i for Macro stuff in a more studio-ish environment. This is a life saver. highly recommend you get one if you use your camera indoors and on a tripod often.

Not exactly your answer, but I highly recommend getting some quality low self-discharge NiMH rechargeable batteries. The Amazon Basic ones are good. Not only rechargeable, but they don't leak. Eneloop is the gold standard as well and they come with a decent charger.

You basically get a free charger with this pack:

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSMJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.aQ3Db9XMZ1SM

My original post is based on trying to replicate from pictures what someone else has done which, presumably, worked at some level. Metal detector technology, particularly in the battery department, is still in the stone age. Dealing with 8x AA cells is unreasonable and ends up with a ton of crap in the landfill, hence my wanting to swap out so something better.

So, if building something like this is complicated, unsafe, etc... what's the happy path to getting to where I want to be?

Something like https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-3000mAh-Lithium-External/dp/B01M7Z9Z1N

and setup an adapter from the current battery pack connector to convert to it?

To be clear, I'm not doing this because I have any desire to build a battery pack, I'm just trying to get somewhere more reasonable than a fistfull of AAs.

I'm going to stay on the sidelines on the light recommendation, but I do have a charger/battery recommendation for AA. This Panasonic Package with 4 AA Eneloop cells and the charger are very good. You get the good Eneloop cells and a good charger. While the charger will take about 7 hours if the cell is fully discharged, that means it is a good charge rate. https://smile.amazon.com/Panasonic-K-KJ17MCA4BA-Individual-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00JHKSMJU/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1511802072&sr=8-9&keywords=eneloop

This needs to be much higher. Why use wasteful single-use batteries when there's a rechargeable option that is nearly as good? I've replaced all of my household batteries with Eneloops as well. Some of them are older models that have been charged many times and, as far as I can tell, they're just as good as they were new. The newer Eneloop Advanced Charger that comes with 4 AAs is excellent as well. They are available on Amazon.

Play and charge kits are typically poor quality. Was on Xbox 360 as well. Get a good set of rechargable AAs with a good charger.. they last longer between charge and you always have a charged pair ready to go. I use these they are awesome, charger is per cell so no matching needed. .. Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSMJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NX7GAb69NV60D

It's been suggested, but the 5" Raspberry Pi screen would work, but has a resolution of 800x480. Another advantage is it can be powered by a USB battery bank via the micro USB.

Personally I'd go with something like this 7" 1024x600 and power it via a 12v/5v power bank and you'd be in it for $95, but that's because I'd like a slightly larger image.

When I used to install security cameras I used a Photography external output as it has an included battery and is pretty simple.

I just need someone to tell me the absolute best ones to buy. I've read a lot of reviews in the past hour, and have narrowed it down to:


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JHKSMJU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450918105&sr=8-1&p=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Panasonic+Advanced+Individual+Cell+Battery+Charger+with+eneloop+AA+2100+Cycle+Rechargeable+Batteries+%28White%2C+Pack+of+4

Or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JHKSL1O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450918175&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=KJ17KHCA4A&dpPl=1&dpID=51GQ9r-gSDL&ref=plSrch


Or a different one entirely? I'm super excited to try these out, especially since my play and charge kit occasionally works really well, and sometimes not at all.

I strongly recommend [these: the Eneloop Rechargeable Batteries by Panasonic] (https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-K-KJ17MCA4BA-Individual-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00JHKSMJU/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1480864067&sr=8-7&keywords=Eneloop+AA+batteries) I've had the same set for over a year, get 5+ days with 5+ hrs each day of gaming in them. I also use the AAA's in my X31's and get about 5 days of use out of them before I gotta swap them out. Panasonic is working with Tesla for the battery packs in their cars. Trust me, you cannot buy a more trusted brand in battery tech for the value. I am genuinely not a spokesperson, just love these batteries and love helping people save money

The X will handle the games AND movies! First I've heard of the S being better at movies. Get some rechargeable batteries like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSMJU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I had been using the official play and charge kit until getting these and they last much longer! All the Xbox One controllers should work with the X. Not sure about 3rd party controllers, but the Microsoft brand will. If you can, purchase an extended warranty. But definitely the X is a great system and great timing since Red Dead Redemption 2 is coming out!

Buy the Hero4 to future proof yourself a bit more. Another GoPro won't be coming out for awhile and when it finally does, it will only be marginally better than the 4 while much better than the 3+. So far the screen has been great, just take care of it and keep it protected as often as possible. I just received these in the mail also:

http://www.amazon.com/Smatree%C2%AE-1290mAh-Replacement-3-Channel-Camcorder/dp/B00OT7N2ZA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1419799174&sr=8-3&keywords=hero+4+battery

http://www.amazon.com/RAVPower%C2%AE-10400mAh-External-Thunderbolt-Incredible/dp/B009V5X1CE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1419816813&sr=8-4&keywords=gopro+external+battery

Yep, any bike shop will have a selection of headlights for bicycles. They clamp on the handlebars, generally. The cheaper ones are powered with AA batteries and some have a rechargeable battery pack. If you go with the AAs, it'll be worth investing in Eneloop rechargeable batteries.

If you have a basket on the front of your bike, it may obscure the light. Some people will ziptie a short piece of PVC to the front of the basket and then mount the light to that. Minoura also makes a basket clamp but they're hard to find in the US for some reason.

When I ride at night I use two headlights - an AA powered one that flashes, and this thing which uses a rechargeable battery back. It's insanely bright.

I haven't ridden through Logan Heights recently but my recollection is that it's pretty bikeable and downtown is an easy ride from there.

I went for both, the Bacpac and the spare battery just because I could and because of the advantages of having each. I'll go through what I like about each of them and what I find them both to be useful for, hopefully that'll help you.

The Bacpac to me has been very good because it doesn't add a lot of bulk to the GoPro but does manage to extend the battery life by quite a bit. I can't give you any numbers, but I've done half a day of snowboarding with one fully charged battery and Bacpac as a reference. What's also nice about the Bacpac is that if you use the Skeleton Backdoor for it you have access to the MicroUSB charging port on it, so you can charge it while in use; I use this when I'm in a car (on the racetrack or on roadtrips) to be able to film continuously. So far this has somewhat replaced the Frame Housing as it allows me to charge the camera.

As for the spare batteries, I went with the Wasabi Power option as it is very cheap, gives you two batteries equivalent in quality to the GoPro batteries and comes with a charger for both power outlets and cars. If I were to only use my GoPro for outdoor activities I have to say I'd probably go for that option as changing batteries is very swift and three fully charged batteries usually last the whole day for me.

Hope this helped and if you have any further questions, don't hesitate to ask!

Get one, but like Atom30 said. Don't get it at cyclegear.

Also for anyone that has a gopro you should picked this up as well.

Link You get 2 batteries and a charger for $23. The batteries last 3-3.5 hours compared to the standard gopro ones lasting 2.5 and they fit perfectly.

If you want a cheap AA option: Sofirn SP10A ($12) + Panasonic Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop ($18). You can get both from Amazon.
or even cheaper Sofirn SP10A + 4 Amazonbasics rechargable batteries from Amazon (you may need to buy something else to get free shipping) + a Zanflare Lii 100 ($4) single slot charger from Gearbest.

For another 18650 option A: Zanflare F1 4500-5000K from Gearbest with usb charging + get a protected battery from either Ilumn (they have a protected 3500mah MJ1 for $6.50 + shipping), IMRbatteries or liionwholesale.
For another 18650 option B: If the fog is dense I would suggest the Sofirn SF36W with a 2800mah battery from aliexpress, which it's available on 3000K warm white and should penetrate better the fog.

TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 3000mAh Lithium ion Battery Pack for LED Strip, CCTV Camera and More, DC 12V/5V USB Dual Output External Battery Power Bank with Charger, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7Z9Z1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ad.kDbVMMFR4B

This is the battery. I bought a couple of these 3000 maH ones. Thanks also have a v-mount battery but this one is great for more run n fun style shooting.

The cable I made myself out of a 12v connector and the AC power supply included with the camera but you can buy new ones on Amazon for reasonable prices

The Spongeface kits are awesome, and require very little modification on the pack itself, have fun with it and take your time!
As for the battery you want something along the lines of this: https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=talentcell+12v&qid=1562712683&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
And some Barrel plugs to wire it with like these: https://www.amazon.com/43x2pcs-Connectors-Security-Lighting-MILAPEAK/dp/B072BXB2Y8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=barrel+plug&qid=1562712775&s=gateway&sr=8-4


Also definitely check out GBFans.com! The forums are a really handy place to find info and parts of all kinds for Ghostbusters props of all types.

I cannot recommend these enough. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JHKSMJU/ref=pd_aw_fbt_23_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1TKSJ5QND3SQ6WTFGAWS

My roommate has 12 that he swaps out throughout his devices and they're all working as great today as they did 2 years ago. I've had my set of 4 for about 4 months and they've been amazing. So much better than the play and charge kit. Also, if you have other micro USB cables I would try them because back when I had an Elite, only certain ones would charge it.

1. Buy it shortly so you have time to play with it, master the settings, etc.
   
   
2. I would buy some extra batteries. I think many people here have used these with good success: http://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-Battery-AHDBT-201-AHDBT-301/dp/B00AAIPT76/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370588037&sr=8-1&keywords=gopro+black+edition+batteries That gives you a car charger, wall charger, and 2 batteries for $25.
   
   
3. This starts with more of a question, but are you taking a cell phone. I would simply to use as a wifi device. I've yet to try this, so maybe someone else can chime in, but if you have a phone with a micso SD slot, you can take the card from the gopro, but it in your phone, and when you're in an area with wifi, like a cafe/hotel/restaurant, you could then upload the files to some sort of online storage site.
   
   
4. At a minimum I would grab a couple extra SD cards anyway. Keep an eye on slickdeals.net and you should be able to pick up 32gb class 10 cards for about $25.
   
   
5. ENJOY, and I can't wait to see some footage!

I have the Neewer CN-160 which are LED fixtures for only $27.95 on Amazon. Of course these are cheap and have a color cast. They do, however, operate off of NP-F550 batteries so if you plan on filming on a location without wall outputs, you can easily use these. Although, just as HybridCamRev said, The F&V R-300 Ring Lights are great options but more expensive. They're brighter and can hang right over the lens of your camera or off on a light stand. These are great because you only need one to evenly lite your subject (in this case, yourself). It all just depends on your budget.

I'll play devil's advocate for the use of AA batteries controllers in current year (I have the powerA GameCube controller).

You can always use rechargeable ones; Panasonic Eneloops have been great for me so far for $20 USD. They have a long lasting charge and it took me a good three weeks of intermittent smash Bros play to drain them completely.

It's awesome to be continuously wireless. When your current pair die, Chuck two fresh ones in and keep going. Recharge your old ones when you get home.

I'm a diy person, but it's nice knowing I wont have to open my controller up to replace the battery, too.

Tbh I would rather have a standard rechargeable controller, but I don't think you should let the battery issue dissuade you from purchasing one you like.

Klarus Mi7 - this light WILL take 14500s.

Be careful, only certain colors from Amazon have pocket clips (make sure it shows a clip in the pictures)

Also, I second the ThruNite T10 (or in Titanium] with NiMH batteries.

I recommend you buy Eneloop rechargeables

They'll save you a ton of money in the end, are more reliable, and just better.

Gotcha. Yeah, it really sounds like the AC adapter would be the way to go here. They’re only like twenty bucks and they really save you a lot on batteries - or at least saves you time switching the batteries. I use mine for product shots. I can leave the camera on all day and just snap a photo whoever I have the next product staged for the shot. Super handy.

Edit: this is the one I bought a couple years ago. I’ve never had an issue with it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D69P0UG