Reddit mentions: The best camera power adapters

As a Youtuber who's invested in the wrong gear before the right gear, here's a quality list that I've found works for my needs and will likely be great for you.


Camera

Panasonic GH4: This is a great camera that shoots 4K. If you are shoot in 4K, downscale to 1080p, you have the option to reframe and zoom into a closer shot without losing quality. It has a flip out screen so you can see yourself, focus peaking to show you on screen if you're in focus, and can record longer clips (in select modes) than the Canon T3i to make syncing easier. This camera is also great for when you want to deliver in 4K one day.
$1699


AC Power adapter: No worrying about batteries for the indoor shooting. $20


Lens

Panasonic 12-35mm: Versatile lens that gives you great range. $1000


14-42 kit lens: Cheaper alternative. $120


Audio

Zoom H4N: Great recorder for your mics. Monitor each mic's level independently. $250


Rode NTG-2: Shotgun mic. $270


Sennheiser Wireless Lav: Expensive, but great quality. $640


Audio Technica ATR-3350s: Cheap corded lavs with long wires. $30


You'll need one long XLR cable, a light stand to use for the boom, and some kind of shotgun mic shock mount. $60 for all.


Lighting

3-light softbox kit: Great kit, been using it for a year with no issues. I don't use the over head light, as I don't have the space. I can use the light stand to boom or for another light. $170


Neewer CN-160: Small LED light to help light certain situations or to use as a hair light. $30


Tripod

Manfrotto Tripod w/Fluid Head: Great set up, worth the investment, but there are cheaper alternatives. $350


Memory Card

64GB Sandisk Extreme Pro: Great card which will allow for smooth 4K recording. $100


____



If you have any questions about any of this gear, let me know and good luck with everything!

I love this v-mount battery plate:

HEDBOX | Unix-BM | V Mount/Lock Battery Adapter Plate, with 1x USB 5V/2.1A and 3X D-Tap 14.8V/148W Power Out, Regulated 12V/50W Power via 20in/50cm Breakaway Cable with 2-Pin Connector for BMPCC 4K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1M23QN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C5tADbDQHV0EM

It has 3 D-Taps and one USB port (powering a small monitor) and it comes with the 2-Pin connector cable that plugs right into the BMPCC4K!

You will need to mount it onto a plate on your rig. I got this camvate and it mounts perfectly but there are others.

CAMVATE Multi-Purpose Mounting Cheese Plate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YTFZ88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_99tADbVK192QQ

Finally if you want to save a little money on vmount batteries you can use this alternative until you save up for a good v-mount:

This $20 v-mount adapter attaches the Hedbox to give you the option to use NPF batteries.

Neewer NP-F Battery to V-Mount Battery Converter Adapter for LED Light, Field Monitor, 5D2 Rigs, Alternative Battery Option for Sony V-Mount Gear, Fits for 2-Pack Sony NP-F970, NP-F770,NP-F570 Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075R8DMKF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m6tADbQCDAHW2

And you can buy 2 NPF 970s for $35

NP F975, NP F970, NP F960, NP F950 2X Replacement Li-ion for Sony DCM-M1 MVC-CD1000 HDR-FX1 DCR-VX2100E DSR-PD190P NEX-FS700RH HXR-NX3 (Dual Battery) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7S0VNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F.tADbW4H2N5V

Cheap $16 NPF dual charger:

Powerextra Dual Battery Charger with USB LCD Display for Sony NP-F970 NP-F930 NP-F950 NP-F960 Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G7MJKRP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yguADbDG636AC

$27 dual charger with LED:

SR SUN ROOM NEW Dual Channel LCD Display Charger For Sony NP-F550 NP-F570 NP-F750 NP-F770 NP-F930 NP-F950 NP-F960 NP-F970 NP-FM55H NP-FM500H NP-QM71 NP-QM91 NP-QM71D NP-QM91D Camcorder Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CG7P4YQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EfuADbN81BWDN

I run this setup and it works GREAT!

u/bob-lee-sw4gger - with a £2500 to £3000 budget, I recommend a cinema camera with true 4K DCI resolution, wide dynamic range and internal RAW such as the £1460 4K/60p Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K [Referrals].

This camera will give you full 4096x2160p resolution, 13 stops of dynamic range, and 12-bit compressed 4096 color RAW. Most "4K" still cameras will give you less resolution & dynamic range and 8-bit, 256 color recorded to a weak h.264 codec.

The BMPCC 4K can produce music video image quality like this:

• The Rise - Secret Nation - Musicbed Challenge by Orlando Benedicto (4K)
  
• JRDN - TAKE IT OFF - BMPCC4K by G-DOT (1080p)
  
• Ye Ali - My Way by Trevor Browning (4K)
  
• [BMPCC 4K] Freddie Fred Don't Fret - ICED TEA (Official Video) by 만 시네마Mann Cinema (2160p)
  
• B.Cloy - Favorite Song | Blackmagic Pocket 4k Music video by Matt Tullo (2160p)
  
• Looperay / band reel 2019 / BMPCC4k by Contrast Media (2160p)
  
• J-Stylz - Steals The Show (BlackStreet 2/15/2019) by ReelCinemaPro (2160p)
  
• Scene from "Be the Sun" BMPCC4k Raw Cinema DNG 4:1 by SkyVista Productions (2160p - recorded directly to the camera with a Sennheiser MKH416 and an XLR to mini XLR cable
  
  You'll also need a few lenses.
  
  On a budget, I recommend the £59.99 Neewer 35mm f/1.7 and the Neewer 28mm f/2.8 lens for the same price.
  
  If you're willing to spend more for quality cine glass, I recommend the £359.99 Meike 25mm T2.2 cinema lens and the Meike 16mm T2.2 for the same price.
  
  You'll also need some accessories, starting with a cage, external storage and power.
  
  Cage
  
  
• SmallRig Cage for BMPCC 4K - £82
  
  External Storage
  
  
• Samsung T5 1TB SSD - £163.70
  
• SmallRig SSD holder - £27.50
  
  External Power
  
  
• SmallRig NP-F battery plate - £15.50
  
• 12V to Weipu power cable - £29.99
  
  For lighting, I recommend a couple of £499.99 Pixel 220W Dimmable COB LEDs and two light stands. That should provide plenty of light for anything you want to do.
  
  For the gimbal, I recommend the £749 FeiyuTech AK4500 (reviewed here). It is probably the best value for your money.
  
  If you decide to go with the BMPCC 4K, you might want to subscribe over at r/bmpcc and r/blackmagicdesign- lots of knowledgeable folks there who can help you get the most out of your new camera.
  
  Hope this is helpful and good luck finding the best camera for your needs!

A few of my own:

• Expanding on /u/mc2222's field battery idea:
  
  A great many things...including things you might not otherwise think of...can be powered by a 12V DC power source, such as a car battery.
  
  Swing by Wal-Mart, and check out the Deep Cycle "marine" batteries. They're pretty low quality for marine needs, but they're perfect for ours. Even a mere 50AH of capacity will be PLENTY for what we do. You can pick one up for $40-$80 depending on size/capacity.
  
  Next, look for or build some sort of distribution panel/box/etc. It can be as fancy or plain as you want. All you're after is some central point so you can plug in all this stuff you never knew could be powered off 12V. Personally, I use this guy but there's lots of other methods of doing this.
  
  Now...there's all the obvious things you can power with it. Most motorized mounts, for example, plug right into the car lighter outlet. You can, of course, clip that connector and put some other connector (like the banana plugs my unit takes) on if you wish. But for these items, no further mods are necessary. Dew heaters and camera coolers are other common 12V devices.
  
  Now here's where we get cute...Got a DSLR? It probably has an AC Power Adapter available for it, right? Take a close look at the specs for it...you'll see that while its INPUT is 120VAC (plugs into a wall) it's OUTPUT is plain ole DC...PROBABLY 7.2V or so (a 2 cell LiPo, for the record). Grab yourself a little adjustable step down gadget, cut the cable on the CAMERA side of the converter that's inline, and just use the handy battery adapter piece. Solder it up to the output side of your step down supply, solder up some wires on the input side, set it to 7.2 (or whatever) output, and poof...12V power for your camera. :)
  
  You'll find there's a zillion devices that "plug into the wall", but if you check their OUTPUT, it's 12V DC (or less)...and thus, you can use this method to power them in the field off your field battery. :)
  
  
• Hand Warmers : Not only good for keeping hands toasty on cold imaging nights, but useful for keeping your guide scope or camera lens warmer to help ward off dew/frost.
  
  
• HobbyPartz (among many others, but these guys are amongst the cheapest I've found) has these slick Red LED strips that can be powered by as little as 3V, or up to 12V. They use insanely low amounts of power, so even a small battery pack will power them all night.
  
  What good are they? Well...they're adhesive on the back, AND you can cut them to your desired length, and solder new lead wires onto each strip. Viola...you've got night-vision safe lighting for your laptop, your telescope, your field table..whatever! They serve both to illuminate your work area, AND mark your equipment for others' safety.
  
  

Hey... not too much to ask at all -

​

Here are the links to the battery mount and cable I am using. Here is the one similar on Amazon that has the correct cable attached but this is not the setup I have.

​

Here is the smallrig mount that is on the Crane 2 that my battery mount is attached to.

​

I have also mounted this SSD case directly on the crane 2 under the camera and it works perfectly since the ssd and crane move together so you can use a short USB-C cable.

​

Hopefully that helps. Good luck setting your up. I'm loving it!

I got this dummy battery: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D69P0UG/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1VL3TRKDA8UWZ&colid=OFFMLV3I01BI

It works pretty well. I'm able to even use the built in flash while powering the camera with it, so it'll be more than capable of powering it for use as a webcam.

One thing that I have heard of happening with it is static in the recorded audio if using an external mic going into the camera.

The wall adapter outputs 8.8v, which is within the safe power range for the camera. The camera says it takes 8.4v, though I found that if you drop down to 8.4v, you sometimes get error messages saying something along the lines of "this battery is not supported", and the camera shuts down. Something to do with external power sources requiring a higher voltage than batteries.

I personally don't even use the AC adapter with mine, I use one of those USB to 9v adapters (I made mine, but there are plenty on Amazon) and a USB battery bank to deliver power to the dummy battery. (If you do this, make sure the battery bank is capable of 5v2a output) [Note: The flash does not work when powering it off a USB battery bank as it draws too much power. Though with your use, you should be fine.]

The longest I tested this was about 1.5 hours of 1080p30fps recording (I was observing whether or not there are any skipped frames between each file that the recording gets split into, and I didn't see any). It worked fine, and the camera still works fine. It was also able to handle 4K30fps recording just fine as well.

If you decide to go the safer route and just get more batteries, I've heard these are great: https://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-DMW-BLC12E-DMW-BLC12PP-DMC-FZ1000/dp/B0050K6GH6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511672411&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=wasabi+power+lumix+g7&psc=1

I needed to extend my Rift too and didn't want to have issues so did homework just as you. After getting a recommended HDMI repeater that didn't work (not sure if it was the cable or repeater but I think the cable was bad) I looked again and discovered I could use a Vive Link Box w/this psu, which definitively works well.

It's an active HDMI/USB repeater made for VR and is also not finicky about cables or long runs or what gpu you have or what you ate for dinner last night. As a bonus, it also has a mini displayport input as well as hdmi which is what I use since I only have 1 port on my card and it's running to my projector. Very nice to have a clean breakout box to plug into in my living room as my computer is in the bedroom.

The Brio can't even touch a DSLR in the quality it puts out. For the cost of getting a brio, and the proper lighting to make it not look like ass you can get the Canon up and running. I was using the Brio and I just switched to DSLR and here's what I use.


---------------------------------
Camera :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071K62DPN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lens :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MI1T4A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power Adapter :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074K181L8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Capture Device :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K3FN5MR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

--------------------------------------

You obviously don't need the lens I use I just have a large room I am dedicating to streaming and making look nice so I wanted a wide angle. The power adapter works great. I even left my camera on and running over a weekend last week doing nothing. And the adapter is cheaper than the Brio alone.

So assuming you have any lens on your camera ~$135 and you're good to go. Yes you will still need lighting but you can get $10 worth of lighting a packing paper for a diffusion and be good if you have a camera with a larger sensor than any webcam can provide.

Here are two links to previous stream clips. One with the Brio and lighting the 2nd with my DSLR and the same lighting.

• https://www.twitch.tv/stryderxgaming/clip/VivaciousSleepyRadishDendiFace
  
  
• https://www.twitch.tv/videos/500912609
  
  -------------------------------
  
  Feel free to ask anything else you may want to know as well <3

You're in luck V! There is an A/C Adapter available, Nikon did it kinda weird and didn't include a simple power port on the camera so you need two items. The first is an adapter that looks like your normal battery pack but has a cord off of it and the second is the actual power cord you plug into the wall. Connect those two together and you can record until the next ice age! I've double checked, both of these items are compatible with your model so you're good to go. $62 and free shipping sure beats buying a new camera! :)

Adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-27018-Connector-Required-Adapter/dp/B003ZYF3MS/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt

Power Cord:
http://www.amazon.com/HANKEN-EH-5A-Adapter-Charger-Cameras/dp/B0058OGZIY/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_0

You also might want to throw in a larger SD card to give you more recording time, not sure what you have now but it has to be pretty small to only give you 20mins. This 16GB card should give you close to 4 hours and is only $13:
http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Class-Flash-Memory-TS16GSDHC10E/dp/B003VNKNEQ/ref=pd_sim_p_2

Pm me if you have any questions!

I bought a Vive Link Box to use as a signal/power booster in the middle, and it works great. This cured all my dropouts and audio glitches, as well as giving my system a Bluetooth radio.

This setup works great:

1. Vive Link Box
   
2. Vive Link Box Power Supply
   
3. 12 ft Power cable extension for Vive Link Box
   
4. 10 ft USB 3.0 extension cable
   
5. 10 ft Amazon Basics HDMI cable
   
6. Wire wrap to keep everything tidy
   
   Make sure you power cycle the Vive Link Box whenever you plug or unplug anything into it to for it to reinitialize and detect the headset.
   
   I really wish there was a more elegant solution, but so far this works the best for me.

• /u/paradoxikal needs this Raid to get those pesky spiders off her front porch!
  
  
• /u/stjh needs these paintbrushes for her beautiful artwork.
  
  
• /u/MCubb could always do with some more Perler beads.
  
  
• /u/pandas_mom needs this shirt for Father's Day!
  
  
• /u/ReisaD needs these pans or this cutting board.
  
  
• /u/call_mecthulhu needs this power cord for his daughter's video monitor!
  
  
• And /u/nikky2069 needs this cookbook for getting back on track health-wise.
  
  Thanks for the lovely contest! You're awesome!
  
  

so I have one of these. and I just bought one of these. The camera doesnt last long on it's own batteries and I'm trying to power it to do a good 12 hour time lapse for a project I'm working on for a show. The anker battery should be able to run the Sony camera for that long but I'm trying to be good with my cable management and keep my connector cable length nice and shorter. I have Deans connectors for all my drone shit but I power some lights and other things off of my Anker batteries so I would rather standardize with that. Any ways... Also just want to make some DC cables as well and mod other things to work with the battery but I find that all the female connectors are flimsy and shitty but I did find a guy who had nickle plated female connectors and they where great.

Any ways thanks for the help

You have a 12V fan but a 5.5V power supply? This sounds like a problem to me. I'd recommend a 12V, 0.5A adapter - I use this one - with a 500 ohm potentiometer.

I usually have to turn the rheostat up about half way to get past the fan's stall speed, and then it runs very slowly, and ramps up smoothly to top speed as I turn the dial. At top speed the vortex is so strong the stir bar gets caught in it and jumps the field.

It also helps to use very strong magnets, spaced exactly as far apart as the ends of the stir bar. If your drive magnets are half an inch apart, don't bother with a 1 inch stir bar.

Short answer: Yes. :-)

Actually, I can do both. Usually I do it in post. I'll explain both methods.

First, my cameras are a 1D Mark III and a 1Ds Mark III, so the "hardware" method of doing it when shooting might not work for everyone.

I can do it automagically using the Canon WFT-E2A Wireless File Transmitter hooked up to the GPS using a USB cable. This immediately tags the image with GPS location. Might be handy if you have (and need to use) the Canon OSK-E3 Original Data Security Kit to verify that your images haven't been tampered with. However, I've gone off this approach, as I found it cumbersome.

Now, I have the Garmin set up to create a GPX log file per day on the SD card. These log files I download to my computer. I then use either Downloader Pro on the PC or ImageIngester on the Mac, depending. I prefer to use the former, because it can automatically pick up the right file, whereas ImageIngester needs to be told which file to use. I also enter IPTC meta-info that never changes (copyright, author name, etc) at this stage.

To do this properly, you need to make sure the clocks on the camera and GPS are in sync. I use the GPS as the definitive time source here.

Hope this helps.

Gotcha. Yeah, it really sounds like the AC adapter would be the way to go here. They’re only like twenty bucks and they really save you a lot on batteries - or at least saves you time switching the batteries. I use mine for product shots. I can leave the camera on all day and just snap a photo whoever I have the next product staged for the shot. Super handy.

Edit: this is the one I bought a couple years ago. I’ve never had an issue with it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D69P0UG

Thanks to /r/Jim-Jones I found a great product I can use. It was a few amazon suggestions away.

Seco-Larm E-931-S35RRQ Enforcer Indoor/Outdoor Wall Mounted Photoelectric Beam Sensor with 35 Foot Range

and the timer!

Altronix Timer, Multifunction, 12/24VDC

and I can use a 12VDC power supply

[http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm-CCTV/dp/B00452YFZU](Amamax Wall Adapter Power Supply - 12VDC 1A)

Thank you everyone for guiding me. I think this will finally work! I'm excited I finally found the correct parts.

Thanks for the info(im kind of new to CB so I wanted to ask and see if this kinda of set up would work).Now that you mention dipoles,I was think about getting either the indoor firestik or this[ https://www.gigaparts.com/radiowavz-20dbz.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkMGgybus2QIVk7rACh38LQHWEAQYASABEgIgNfD_BwE ],lets say I get the dipole from the link,would I have to set it up with a mast(s) or could I kinda just run it around the perimiter of my house's roof(kinda hugging it)for ease of setup(it also looks pretty low profile so I kinda thought it was a good idea)






(also can i use this for plugging one of these handhelds to the wall? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00452YFZU/ref=asc_df_B00452YFZU5373047/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00452YFZU&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198056450525&hvpos=1o11&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7112004044057022446&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028207&hvtargid=pla-384041315683)

I wouldn't expect a USB-C charge to work fast enough to make it that usable but there are dummy to USB charger adapters on amazon for the GH5 to power it from a USB power bank. It gives me about a 5.5 hour life from a 10,000 mah power bank, up from the 1.8 to 2 hours from a standard battery. I can't find an exact kit for a LP6N, but I think you could use that GH5 kit and a dummy battery for the Canon and link them up? Check all your voltage before you go trying it though!

There are Sony NP battery to Weipu taps that you can use also and those are a simple solution as far as size and weight to battery life. The one below is ok, works fine but it's screw connector is totally stupid, I drilled out the threads to use it properly.

Weipu to NP plate

USB bank for GH5

I went this route originally, very cumbersome form factor. These are not really designed for cameras, although it will of course work. Instead, I replaced it with this solution:

Runshuangyu Movie Blackmagic Cinema Camera BMCC 4K BMPCC Power Supply Mount Plate Adapter for Sony NP-F970 Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MMZRKWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6HKgDbDN4VXAY

Powerextra Multifunctional Battery Pack Power Bank with USB Output for Sony NP-F970, NP-F975, NP-F960, NP-F950, NP-F930 Battery and Smart Phones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M189SS0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NIKgDbZD7HP5T

Much more manageable and the bricks can power two more items plus the camera simultaneously. I've got 4 bricks and each will last between 1.5-2 hours on a charge.

Also, the brick you ordered takes FOREVER to charge up.

As some friendly advice, I'd cancel your order and instead go with the solution above. I'm confident you'll be more satisfied.

I use a 15ft active USB cable, 3ft displayport to hdmi adapter, 15ft active hdmi cable, and a link box in between. With my Lenovo explorer. Works perfectly. Holds 90fps. And no static or anything. I use the bluetooth on the link box.

Plugable Active DisplayPort to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0C7QO8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T8FC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Cable Matters USB 3.0 Cable (USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSS9LEI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

HTC Vive Link Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXR6DKV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AC to DC 12V 1.5A 12V1.5A Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JL0YIY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm-CCTV/dp/B00452YFZU

Something like this will be what you need.

Input voltage will obviously be 120v you need the output to be 9-12vdc I believe is the working range of most LED strips. 12v most common. Output amperage for a 12" strip should not exceed 1A. As long as you cover those bases you should be good. If you get the stuff I'm more than happy to help build you a wiring diagram for a switch if you choose

Either a PCI usb 3 card, or a vive link box would remedy this.

​

If you go the link box route, it comes w/o the AC adapter and HDMI cable, you'll need to pick both of those up as well, amazon has all three, it's like a 50.00 purchase all said.

​

This also gives the added benefits of

- extendable headset range.

- you can use DP (mini on the box) instead of HDMI if you so desire.

- if you have a laptop with a decent enough card, you can now use your rift on the go.

- USB port powered from the wall, no more load on the PC.

- it comes with a really good adhesive pad, so you can remotely locate your headset ports to say, under the front corner edge of your desk, or the side of your case, or any flat surface you think it'd be cool to have a relocated USB and HDMI port.

- the above pro also means you no longer have to leave the HMD plugged in at all times, you can just pop it out when not in use, and never have to dive behind a case again.

​

The ac adapter you will need is this one.

The USB cable can be anything as long as it is "A to A male to male". I picked one of these up. (two 6 foot cables, one for my LAN party bag, one for home.)

​

Any HDMI cable will work.

​

I would recommend you buy this and this.

I have a few big bench supplies, but like 95% of the time, you just need a few hundred milliamps at 3.3 or 5v or whatever. Save your capital funds for an oscilloscope.

Yeah, if you need a ton of power at 3.3/5/12v on the cheap, salvaging power supplies out of computers people leave out for the trash man is a good strategy. But most of the time, that's a bad idea.

If this is the one it is showing you then yes it should work.

https://www.amazon.com/12V1-5A-Supply-Adapter-Switching-Cameras/dp/B018JL0YIY/ref=pd_bxgy_63_2/144-2600896-3700832?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018JL0YIY&pd_rd_r=c5b5ad91-4ead-4090-aef4-a162d9e8fc68&pd_rd_w=ebb8P&pd_rd_wg=zaIbj&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=N5HAVQ8S1Y00CRS3HBY6&psc=1&refRID=N5HAVQ8S1Y00CRS3HBY6#customerReviews

Also keep in mind you will need a USB 3.0 cable and HDMI Cable. I wouldn't go longer than 6 feet although I know some people have had luck with 10. Also a small bonus the Vive Link Box has Bluetooth in it. I have not validated that as I have the O+ and it has bluetooth built into the headset for the controllers. I have read other people have use the BT in the Link box fine however.

I do use the RX10 mk II. It will run off USB - but not entirely, it does still pull from the battery, just at a slower rate. But a battery adapter is far from "expensive". Here's a dummy battery + AC adapter for $20. http://amzn.to/2jES0WB AND here's a USB-to-battery adapter option http://amzn.to/2iPW1Uc so you can use any USB battery pack that supplies 2.4A. I just got one of these, ships from china, but it's kinda awesome.

The only things I don't like about the mkII for the youtube stuff I use it for is not having a flip around screen... and that the camera resets the zoom every time it is turned off and on. So you can't really frame something permanently.

Anyways, there's nothing wrong with the mkII, and I never saw any major benefits in the mkIII (for my purposes).

Yeah that website is a little tricky to understand. You have one set of lines for sun/moon rise and another set for sun/moon set. Then adjusting the clock on the bottom you can see in what direction and degrees elevation the sun will be at that exact time with the 3rd set of lines. For the eclipse in Oregon the sun will be right around 40 degrees up. I'm actually going to be on the eastern side so I won't be able to get Mt Jefferson in the shot but the odds of good weather is a lot higher.

I use an AC adapter. I've built some big gear lists before:
https://www.reddit.com/r/SonyAlpha/comments/4zb5zt/what_are_the_things_i_should_know_read_about_my/
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/5zx7nf/official_question_thread_ask_rphotography/dfbt8qr/?context=3

If you're looking for a longer lens the Nikon 300 F/4.5 ED with the TC-300 or TC-301 seems like the cheapest way to get a good quality image at a reasonable price. Mirror lenses are another way; I just got the Sigma 600mm F/8 on ebay for under $100 so it should be showing up soon.

I decided to stalk /u/call_mecthulhu's wishlist. Fun fact about /u/call_mecthulhu, they have a lot of the same interests as me and I even added some items (SFW and NSFW) =P to my wishlist because of their wishlists. =D

I noticed this was listed as a highest priority, but since that is practical and not fun...I'll also say this or this.

...I always feel like somebody's watching meee...

Just look for a used ninja 2 there’s probably a ton out there since people are going to 4K. Or you could buy a new 4K capable ninja flame and just record in 1080.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/ATOMOS-NINJA-2-recorder-monitor-for-HDMI-cameras-DSLRs-with-2-SSDs-2-batts/112887030726?epid=1826234779&hash=item1a489763c6:g:ywoAAOSwoupatHFQ&_trkparms=gclientid%3DWa7RMFJvx7BwroDKZdq3s7dlc8EvZfxTEY0aMA5WX_AF_jcjZxgYLW7vdZi8R8qb&_trksid=p2489528.m4335.l8656

6300 should be fine
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1242001-REG/sony_alpha_a6300_mirrorless_digital.html

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1380867-REG/sony_fe_70_300mm_f_4_5_5_6_g.html

I think you’ll be about 3k all in

There may be a good 1080 camcorder option for you, I’m just not familiar with the zoom reach of one in your price range. This will give you all the reach you’d need I think.

Make sure you get
-mount to connect monitor
Neewer Black 1/4" Screw Mount Swivel Mini Ball Head Camera Mount with Lock and Hot Shoe Adapter for DSLR Camera,LED Video Light,Microphone,Video Monitor and Ring Flash Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LQGNK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-vCUAbCWRAV9F

Ssd
SanDisk Ultra II 480GB SATA III 2.5-Inch 7mm Height Solid State Drive (SSD) with Read Up To 550MB/s- SDSSDHII-480G-G25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M8ABFX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fxCUAb2N5HK8R

Power
AC-PW20 AC Power Adapter Supply PW20 DC Coupler Gonine (NP-FW50 Battery Replacement) for SONY Alpha NEX-5 NEX-5A NEX-5C NEX-5CA NEX-5CD NEX-5H NEX-5K NEX-3 A6000 A6300 A6500 A3000 A5000 A7. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D67LTIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rzCUAbEGAQJF4


UCEC 11.81"/30cm Coiled Micro HDMI to Full Size HDMI Cable for Atomos for Ninja Star Recorder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BVLTVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cCCUAb66K4CH2

Thanks for letting me and thanks for the update. I was able to find a 3.5mm on Amazon. It even has a review from a Vive owner who uses it for his breakout box, so that's great! It doesn't fit perfect, they said "This metal plug is ever so slightly longer than the OEM cable's, but the important thing is the width, so I don't care." So this is probably as close as we'll get, I'm not able to find anything better.

Leaving the link for others that run into this thread: https://smile.amazon.com/12V1-5A-Supply-Adapter-Switching-Cameras/dp/B018JL0YIY

2 cams is a must. Forget an fs7, that's overkill and it's going to eat your budget-- I would rent a gh5. It will match your g80 very well (use cine-d) and it has dual card slots.

Shoot 4k on both cameras, and occasionally punch in on them in post to effectively have 4+ POVs in 1080p.

Also, sound is going to be your biggest issue. Ideally, you can plug in a field recorder into the soundboard and get as clean a signal as possible, from the source.

If I were in your shoes, I would rent/buy:

gh5 (rental)-- $50-$100

Tascam dr-o5/Zoom h1 recorder (rental) -- $15-$30

Male/male 3.5mm jack (buy) -- $10

x4 128gb SD (buy) -- $200

x1 64gb micro-sd (for the audio, doesn't need to be fancy) -- $20-$30

x2 Panasonic Dummy batteries (buy) -- $50

x2 Tripods (borrow?)

X1 Lumix 42.5mm f1.7 (rental) -- $30-$50

With those things, you can make it work well.

Thanks, Brunerww. I have decided to get the G6 for now as it will allow me more money in lenses and accessories at this time. The GH4 will probably be my Christmas present to myself!

I decided to get:

This kit with 2 lenses,

This adapter for my old Pentax lenses

This coupler power adapter

This 35MM Fotasy CCTV lens I've read so much about.

I used your affiliate link to purchase as a thank-you for all the helpful information you've given me the past weeks.

I need this so badly. It's a charger that fits my daughters video monitor. Since its summer and we have the air conditioners in we can't use an audio one because the sound of both a/cs overpower it. Of coarse it's the weirdest size plug and we looked in every best buy and radio shack within a 30 mile radius so is find this amazingly helpful right now. Either way thank you for this contest and I'm glad someone will be helped out, even if its not me. Goodbye Eleven

I think they're priced relatively reasonably, with the exception of the Link Box. The base stations seem overpriced until you consider just how much R&D went into them. Consider further that Valve and HTC have promised support of third-party controllers and HMDs, and you're left with a scenario that the base stations are the only thing left that you have to buy from Valve, so it's fair to make a bit of profit on that.

The link boxes, however, aren't fairly priced. It's just a link box. It doesn't come with a male-to-male USB cable (something most folks don't have lying around), nor an HDMI cable (more common) or a power adapter (no one will have this!). You can't even buy it from HTC separately; you have to order one from Amazon. Considering that this and the other cables add $15-$20 more, and you have to source them separately, I think the link box is a bit of a rip-off.

I bought it anyway, of course, along with the cables and a pair of extra pair of base stations so that I can keep one set up at home and one in my studio. But it definitely sucked.

Gonna be trying this with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0083EQS3I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Definitely seems like the way to go! thanks!

Unfortunately there isn't much around for less than ~$175 or so, but from everything I've heard, the Nikon stuff is worth paying for if you're doing the AC adapter thing. This seems like one of those things where Nikon could've just made a simpler connector and used it for a bunch of different cameras. Oh well.

Edit: I found this, has all 5 star reviews on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/HANKEN-EH-5A-Adapter-Charger-Cameras/dp/B0058OGZIY

I just searched Amazon for "Canon 80D power adapter" and found a few 3rd party options that I never tried before and unsure if they actually work. But something like this looks like a possible solution.

Overheating depends on the camera, on a Canon 7D it will overheat after a while but I can run constant video from my 5D Mark II's and Mark III's for hours. Easy to try, just turn on the video liveview mode at home, and see how long before the camera turns off by itself.

That article from Planet 5D which /u/kickstand linked is what I used to get started as well, worked for me when I needed it and I streamed video to a ustream.tv channel that people were able to log in to.

I use the ACK-E6AC adapter to plug my Canon's into the wall when I stream so I don't have to worry about power issues. This adapter works for any LP-E6 battery so just get the right one for your camera. http://www.amazon.com/Canon-ACK-E6AC-Adapter-Mark-Digital/dp/B001KBZ3PK/

Can't be done, unless you took it with something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-OSK-E3-Original-Data-Security/dp/B000NPKVGK/?tag=dpnotes-20


Always get stuff like this in writing on the lease or rental agreement before signing anything. I think you are going to have to eat the 100 pounds.

Interesting. I guess it's just acting as an HDMI/USB repeater. Hopefully someone with more experience can comment. It looks like this AC adapter can be used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY

So you're going to need an A/C adapter.

The one I use

Canon official

You need a mini HDMI cable. I purchased this adapter so my screen isn't completely covered and I can use any HDMI cable I have laying around.

That plugs into an Elgato Cam Link but any capture card should work.

Make sure the camera is set to video mode. I'm not at the camera now so I can't get you my exact settings but disable any auto shutoff and HDMI interface. There is no way to disable the side screen from shutting off after 30 minutes max.

Bonus: I've got it clamped to the back of my monitor with this mount.

Here's what I've got in my cart. If somebody could give a quick glance and tell me if I'm good to go. I'd greatly appreciate it:

Power supply:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A38ZT5SX6TTZ4E&psc=1

Link box:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A38ZT5SX6TTZ4E&psc=1

Hdmi cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T8FC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Usb cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSS9LEI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ&psc=1

This. This is the easiest/cheapest way to go. This plate and take your pick of battery capacity from this brand, DSTE.

The NP-F 970s last about 3-4 hours depending on conditions and the much smaller NP-F 550s last over an hour, up to 2, again, depending on conditions.

I found using a cage for the BMPCC like this was helpful for attaching it. It’s definitely not a perfect solution but absolutely one of the cheapest. The biggest fault I’ve found would be that the Battery plate gets absolutely no feedback from the camera, so it constantly drains the battery until you physically unhook it from the plate, even when not charging/powering the camera.

I’ve also heard great things about this battery/power solution from a lot of guys who use the BMPCC and BMCC but haven’t used it myself. I can confirm that a 12v usb battery bank will also do the job, I use the same cord from my battery plate to connect it but you can order them separate simply by searching amazon for “BMPCC Cords”

get something like this, www.amazon.com/dp/B0083EQS3I/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2QAQFXKWFOQY2

then a battery pack with dc output like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFMUBYG/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2DH2C7QW3L3G8 or this https://www.amazon.com/Poweradd-Pilot-Pro2-23000mAh-Smartphones/dp/B015OAJFOC/

you will probably need a wire adapter like this also since i'm not sure what comes with the battery pack. https://www.amazon.com/Valley-Enterprises-2-1mm-5-5mm-Adapter/dp/B00GPVWRRC

I received this 15' displayport cable extension today and have tested it to my satisfaction that it works well (combined with the stock Pro displayport cable). I also use this 15' USB cable. If you would prefer to extend the power cord without having a giant junction visible of that big HTC wall plug to an extension cord, you can use this power plug, combined with this extender.

I don't think so, but it depends on how often you intend to take photos. The link I sent you, I took a photo every thirty seconds for an hour. Battery life can be extended greatly by using the economy mode that turns the camera off after two seconds, I think it will turn back on for your next timed picture, but you'll have to test it. You'll have to use an external battery solution like this if the battery won't last for your entire time lapse.

I actually had an old v-plate that I had lying around and repurposed for the rig. The SmallRig v-plate should work fine, but it's a dead plate. Has no d-tap of it's own, so would need batteries with dual d-taps or a splitter.

This one I've also heard is good, but can't vouch for it first hand. Wouldn't need the cable I provided earlier either as it's built in. Do something with dedicated d-taps to make switching batteries easier (no unplugging cables form battery)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1M23QN/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_V3NMDb2FYEKRQ

This is the shoulder wedge I have it attached to (both are vertical) in order to press into the front of my shoulder for controlled movement.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N4OZUPO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_q6NMDbRY0D66N

So, its not as cheap as a v-mount plate. But I'd suggest getting a HEDbox V-Mount adapter for the BMPCC4K. Its a fantastic plate, and I use it currently. It has a direct power connection to the Camera itself, which allows you to keep a Battery in the camera, in case there is any sort of drop out. Not overly expensive, and a good product. It has 3 d-tap ports, and a USB port along with the power cable, so it has a lot of options to use other peripherals.

HEDBox Unix BM - $125 + 15 s&h.

SmallRig Battery Plate- $36-ish

SmallRig 15mm Mounts - $15

And of course your V-Mount Battery of Choice.

Hopefully this helps!

Yes!
I use this combination as a battery solution:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3TWBXI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1SDRS5D54HY4U&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MMZRKWK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=AGNG3CODDNL8&psc=1

When I'm using it with the Ronin S, I rig it on the side using 1/4" accessory I picked up from amazon.

A 12V Power Supply

Simple PC Fan, 12V

PWM Controller

The wall wart will supply 12V with a max of 1A of current. 12V computer fans of that size use at most 0.5A. The PWM controller will control the fan speed. It works by sending out DC pulses, also known as a square wave, of different lengths based on where the knob is set.

To hook up:
There are 4 terminals on the PWM Controller. Look on the bottom to see the polarity. Should be +,- Power and +,- Motor. They're screw terminals so she won't need to solder anything.

Simply hook up the red fan wire to the Motor + terminal, and the black fan wire to the Motor - terminal.

Next, WHILE THE WALL WART IS UNPLUGGED, splice the cable so you have some copper showing at an end. If it has red and black, simply repeat what you did with the fan but use the Power terminals. If the wires are the same color, you can use a multimeter to figure out the polarity.

Schematic

I've been using this one on my 2x G7s and it works great.

I know some people use a Sony battery plate that they'll attach to their top handle or something. (I've attached a Canadian link, I'm sure you'd find more on US eBay or Amazon. The search term I used was Sony NPF battery adapter BMPCC.)

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01EFSUK98/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_504_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TRWJG3SS4Z3Y0WGB3M50&dpPl=1&dpID=61l6dmcnhQL

I use this, it's $16.99, but you need something like this to power it.

This is the one I bought, works perfect with my Link Box. Not sure if you can get it in Canada. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think I'll go for this one instead, since it's eligible for the $49 free shipping.

There are NPF plates that output 12V. I'm using this one, but I recommend getting the tilta plate or any with a metal case. Using an NPF 970, I'm getting about 2h30m plus an extra 20-30 minutes with the internal LPE6 battery (I use this 20-30 minutes l window to swap in a new NPF battery)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EFSUK98/ref=psdcmw_13535461_t1_B01DLKW5LM

So itll look like this? Imgur

And would this power supply work?
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm-CCTV/dp/B00452YFZU

Any 12vdc supply rated higher than what the fan demands should be fine.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm-CCTV/dp/B00452YFZU

> Canon doesn't have an external brick that runs on it's own power?

You could get the AC adapter for your camera, which would power the WFT. OEM is $120, the third party is $20. I paid the toll and got the OEM, I'd rather not gamble with 120 volts in this situation.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00452YFZU

Something like this, or basically anything that outputs 12V or 9V.

Fans use ~0.1-0.2 A each, and they can be connected in parallel, so a 12V 1A power supply can power 5-10 of those.

As I said, the issue is converting from that circular plug to something, from which you can convert to one of PC connectors, for which there are adapters and splitters. And doing it without accidentally shorting it.

Thanks for the details. Based off the model you gave, I found this. Reviewers say they're using it with the G7.

Just get an NPF adapter and a couple NPF batteries. It would probably cost you around $60 and accomplish the same thing with a much smaller footprint.

https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Battery-Plate-Adapter-BMPCC/dp/B01EFSUK98

https://www.amazon.com/DSTE-Replacement-MVC-CD1000-DCR-VX2100E-NEX-FS700RH/dp/B00M3P9YBQ

https://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-Battery-Charger-NP-F730/dp/B00FPZY0BK

One of those batteries will keep you going for several hours.

12 volt, max 350mA. Could i wire them in parallel to a 12V 1A supply like this one ?

Like this? https://www.amazon.com/Glorich-Replacement-Adapter-Cameras-Fully-Decoded/dp/B00VNJLBPK

Something like this won't break the bank. But it requires access to an AC outlet.

SMALLRIG DV Battery Plate Adapter for BMPCC/BMCC/BMPC - 1765 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EFSUK98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DtFRCbXNV24KD

DSTE 2X Replacement Li-ion NP-F970 Battery for Sony DCM-M1 MVC-CD1000 HDR-FX1 DCR-VX2100E DSR-PD190P NEX-FS700RH HXR-NX3 Camera as NP-F930 NP-F950 NP-F960 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M3P9YBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_auFRCbXZTK8MB

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372617342876

This setup is like $70 and it gives you 6 hours of power

Thanks for the suggestion, but i already ordered This one


Both are being sold by the same seller in India and for nearly the same price .

I've a question , if i attach the e6n adapter to my UPS it work right ? If it doesn't, I'll attach it to multi plug

I am using a vive linkbox for both my Rift and O+ (and Explorer) and it works great. In fact the USB going into the linkbox is a daisy-chain of non-active 3.0 cables plugged into each other to make it long enough to reach the top of the shelf it's stuck to. You do need a power adapter but don't need to buy the $20 one amazon suggests. I use this one. I have noticed that I have to unplug the Rift sensors while using the Odyssey or I get constant connects/disconnects of USB devices (doesn't seem to be the O+ disconnecting as I don't get any glitching while playing, but it's annoying to hear).

Do you want to record video every second of a 5 hour session or would a time lapse be OK? (1 photo every minute maybe)

Most cameras have a battery adapter option, basically it plugs into the camera where the battery usually fits, the other end plugs into the wall for constant power.

Unfortunately I don't know the proper search term for these adapters, here's a knockof version for Sony mirrorless https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-AC-PW20-SLT-A33L-SLT-A55V-SLT-A55VL/dp/B0083EQS3I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421608307&sr=8-2&keywords=sony+ac-pw20

From quick look on the end from youtube I imagine a dc wall adapter like this one would work. However this is not a sure fire promise of it working as there are a couple different diameter of dc plugs around.

You need a dummy battery and AC adapter to per it from the wall. I haven't used this one, so this isn't a recommendation, just an example:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D69P0UG

You will need something similar for the G85 or GH4. One announce is, unlike a camcorder or proper ENG type camera the DSLR style cameras can only get per from one source at a time. I use a camcorder for event videography that's plugged into the wall and has a battery mounted, if somebody unplugs the power it'll switch to battery automatically. Not a deal killer, just be aware that you can't use a battery and be plugged in to the wall at the same time.

You need the battery wall AC adapter. They'res one on Amazon for $16

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083EQS3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9iJ5BbM0HPJ8K

Here is the Amazon link. $45. I'm linking this via my phone so hopefully it works. Runshuangyu Movie Blackmagic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MMZRKWK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The components don't have to be that expensive.

• Analog monitor - $18
  
• Power supply for the monitor - $8
  
• Keyboard - $9
  
• No mouse is required - $0
  
• 4GB SD card - $7
  
• Case - $9
  
• Raspberry Pi - $35
  
• USB wall charger (can power four units) - $8
  
• 6ft Micro USB cable - $1.50
  
  With this configuration you're looking at ~$96 per seat, about half of your estimate.
  
  When the Model A comes out the price will come down another $10. I'm sure even cheaper new components could be found and more savings could be had if used components were purchased or received as donations instead. It could be possible to get to the $50 level.

Hope this helps
2 12V Photoelectric relays
12V motor
6mm bore pully to match motor shaft
Project box
2 limit switches
Solar panel
Battery
If not solar powered. Aka no solar panel or battery

If you have any other questions let me know I am at work and I will answer what I can on my phone

Edit: I forgot a pully to run the rope from, but the motor I linked has so much torque you could go direct no problem, and lumbar to build the door. I estimated about 10$ for wood. I used all treated, as that's what I had laying around, but its probably not necessary as most of the door on my design was in the coop. I can make you a wiring diagram as well if you are interested. That reminds me you should use 4 zener diodes (just because you only need 4 doesn't mean you shouldn buy a 100 for future projects :) also if you goto an electronics store you will pay 5-6$ for 6 diodes) to stop flash back through the whole circuit from the reversing of polarity with the motor.

I live stream podcasts with multiple angles. Someone recently asked me about all the gear I use to do it so I made a list.


Program - This is the program I use to broadcast. You can stream and record at the same time.

https://streamlabs.com/

Cameras

https://www.amazon.com/PANASONIC-Mirrorless-14-42mm-Megapixels-DMC-G7KK/dp/B00X409PQS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=panasonic+g7&qid=1558477000&s=gateway&sr=8-3


Dummy Battery for cameras

https://www.amazon.com/Gonine-DMW-BLC12-Replacement-PANASONIC-DMC-FZ200/dp/B01D69P0UG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=32A1OGUQ5XENW&keywords=lumix+g7+dummy+battery&qid=1558477179&s=gateway&sprefix=lumix+g7+dum%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1


Capture cards - These are used to connect the cameras to the PC

https://www.amazon.com/Capture-Broadcast-Streaming-Grabber-Converter/dp/B0779ZJZX3/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?crid=JC99JTVRO2VM&keywords=capture+card&qid=1558477097&s=gateway&sprefix=capture+%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1

HDMI to MICRO HDMI - capture card to camera

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Speed-Micro-Resolution/dp/B004C3HZCC/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=hdmi+to+micro+hdmi&qid=1558477350&s=gateway&sr=8-10

Audio Interface

https://www.amazon.com/Alesis-MultiMix-8-Channel-Interface-Headphones/dp/B07D7HKS1H/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=audio+interface+alesis&qid=1558477609&s=gateway&sr=8-5


Microphones

https://www.amazon.com/Technica-AT2005USB-Dynamic-Cardioid-Microphone/dp/B077YPDG5Q/ref=sr_1_30?keywords=xlr+dynamic+microphone&qid=1558477879&s=gateway&sr=8-30

Are we talking about something as simple as this: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm-CCTV/dp/B00452YFZU

Makes me wonder why they don't just include this power supply with the preamp instead of the stock one.

one of these coulde be useful

You will need this.....

https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Link-Box-Pc/dp/B01LXR6DKV

And this......

https://www.amazon.com/12V1-5A-Supply-Adapter-Switching-Cameras/dp/B018JL0YIY

What already does work - at least as a 6 foot extension that works is as follows:

Display Port:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L1K1G74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB 3.0 Vive link booster (both HDMI (not Display Port ) and USB3)

https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Link-Box-Limited/dp/B07TRSMJJX/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Power supply

https://www.amazon.com/12V1-5A-Supply-Adapter-Switching-Cameras/dp/B018JL0YIY/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/136-9265774-0787045?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018JL0YIY&pd_rd_r=eef03caa-f265-4a74-8cea-0c441fa02b2e&pd_rd_w=TYkgw&pd_rd_wg=76Kme&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=8493GBG52WE0QDVM7AS1&psc=1&refRID=8493GBG52WE0QDVM7AS1

6foot USB3 cable (male to male )

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P0E394U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Some other just USB booster could work and be simpler. I just used the Vive box when I had a Samsung Odyssey+ and then reused it for the Reverb.

Rumor has it, this will do the trick.

https://www.tindie.com/products/emergentdevices/pc-fan-power-breakout-board/

+ this to power it: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00452YFZU

HTC Vive Link Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXR6DKV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kD1JBb5FQR8HE

AC to DC 12V 1.5A 12V1.5A Power Supply Adapter Switching for Cameras DVR NVR LED Light Strip DC3.5*1.35mm UL listed FCC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JL0YIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZD1JBbVM7W102

UGREEN USB 3.0 A to A Cable Type A Male to Male Cable Cord for Data Transfer Hard Drive Enclosures, Printers, Modems, Cameras (6FT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0E394U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lE1JBbG15KXT3

And it still needs a hdmi cord. Note, the USB cord is a Male to male cord

I'd pick this up from Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm-CCTV/dp/B00452YFZU

You can get barrel to bare lead adapters or cut the cord and make your own.

seriously, the first thing you need to do is go buy one of these, and get that bulky PC power supply out of there.

The GH5 has no recording limit other than your SD cards. You may save space recording in 1080p (or lower resolution) instead of 4k and maybe picking a compressed format (quality may suffer, you will have to try and see what works for you there). To be sure that the SD cards are formatted correctly, you can format the cards from the camera the first time you use them.

As far as I know it's not possible to charge the battery while it is inside the camera, but you could use an AC adapter instead (like this one) and use your camera for hours, as it would only require you to have it plugged in. That said, the battery in my camera lasts way more than an hour so you may not need any adapter.

Will this work? Can I just cut the end off and splice it onto the tables wires? How do I figure out which wire to splice to which? (Sorry these are probably idiot tier questions - I've never done this before and I saw you worked in a Sanyo shop)

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-2-1mm-CCTV/dp/B00452YFZU

Also on the off chance this does need to take a/c power, will hooking up a d/c supply cook the motor?

Edit: As a matter of fact, I just took a look through the "old power adapters" box at work and found two. One is 120v ac to 12v ac - would that work or will the extra four volts cook the table? I also found a 120v ac to 12v DC adapter which I think is pretty much what you describing earlier. Pictures: http://imgur.com/sKkYGeB

Did i miss something? I thought that the A7SII is only supposed to be able to record for a max of 30 minutes. How are you wanting it to record for an entire day?

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Could this work for power?

I got one of these and it was a game changer for my BMPCC - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EFSUK98/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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You could probably mount this on the gimbal handle and just run the cable to the camera, probably solve your problem in one go.

had a similar issue with my 1080ti and believe it or not the easiest fix was to buy a htc vive link box. i tried tons of repeaters and other adapters and nothing worked. got the link box and suddenly my oculus can easily run even the cable listed here:- https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-9-vr-extension-cable-black/5706844.p?skuId=5706844 which is notorious for not working on most gpus. you can buy the link box on amazon here:- https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Link-Box-pc/dp/B01LXR6DKV but keep in mind that you will have to get the power adapter seperately. i'm using this one with no issues whatsoever:- https://www.amazon.com/12V1-5A-Supply-Adapter-Switching-Cameras/dp/B018JL0YIY/

I ended up going with this combo.

2 PowerExtra batteries

npf adapter (has 12v bm power + dc port for dummy battery)

2 Telesin LP-e6 batteries with charger + sd reader

anker multi usb charger (60w) to charge the Powerextra batteries and whatever else needed.

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I also picked up the smallrig cage. ill pick up the tilta later one along with a matte box so i can start adding some 4x4 filters to the collection.

I have an Odyssey+ and these are what I have been using for about 6 months and I have had no problems:
Vive Link
10ft HDMI
10ft USB 3.0
12ft Power Supply Adapter
Power Supply