Best products from r/electricians

Here are some resources for self education which are mostly free or cheap. They are most applicable to the US but many may be useful outside of there.

http://www.code-electrical.com/studyaidbooks.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0071818871 - The Electrician's Trade Demystified Very much USA only. It covers the code book in detail.

BASIC ELECTRICAL THEORY 1

http://www.reddit.com/r/electricians/comments/2caozx/massive_apprenticeship_research_collection/

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLA2FA843BA0722D0F

http://education-portal.com/articles/List_of_Free_Online_Electrician_Courses_Classes_and_Learning_Materials.html

http://www.electricianmath.com/

http://www.nectesting.com/

For theory, there are many free books and videos you can find and study.

Here for books and more: https://archive.org/search.php?query=NEETS%20AND%20mediatype%3Atexts

Here for videos: https://www.khanacademy.org/

Very good and free. You can repeat the videos over and over until you get it. Look at the math and science sections.

Also, try public libraries for books. Even "How to Wire Your Home" books are helpful

https://alison.com/learn/electrical-engineering - free courses. Don't know much about them but free is a very good price.

Some more free downloads - US tax dollars paid for these:

DOE-HDBK-1092-2013.pdf
h1011v1.pdf
h1011v2.pdf
h1011v3.pdf
h1011v4.pdf
h1013v1.pdf
h1013v2.pdf

They're on http://energy.gov/ and Google will find them.

They're a good standard set of texts and free to download.

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This is good for hands on: http://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Experiments-You-Can-Home/dp/0071621644 - see if your library can get a copy for you. You get to build your own labs for cheap and do experiments. I would replace his transformer with one which is 24 volts center tapped also called 12-0-12. You will get different results from his but that's OK.

Here's one example

Or you could use one of these plus one of these which is close to his original unit. The reason for two voltages is so you get experience at what happens when you change voltages.

All of this is way cheaper even than the $900 - $1500 that an online course costs or the $10,000 you pay for a private school.

Are you open to suggestions?

If you haven't already ripped the packaging off of it, my personal recommendation is to not use the Klein non-contact voltage tester (ticker). My experience with it was not good. It was unreliable and the on/off button is junk so the damn thing would never turn off, then it would sit and beep at me constantly while it was in my tool pouch. I finally got rid of it and bought the Santronics ticker. Easily one of the best purchases I've made as an electrician. It's always on, silent, and extremely reliable.

Also, for your hammer I would recommend one with a longer head on it like this one. The reason for this is because you will be doing a lot of work with deep 1900 boxes and 11bs (don't worry if you don't know what those are yet, you will find out soon) and if you're using fasteners that require pounding in with a hammer, you will need a different hammer than the one you have. If you're doing residential work and need to pound staples inbetween studs, you can just use the side of your hammer.

You can probably just return those gloves. You will (or should) be provided with work gloves (many, many pairs of them) at every jobsite you ever work at. You'll never have to buy another pair of work gloves in your life, I can promise you that.

As others have said, get the Klein multi-tool. The 32500 model is the one I use, along with some other commenters in this thread. They are cheap, you'll probably lose the tips every now and then, but it will easily be your most used tool, especially if you're doing a lot of devicing.

Another personal recommendation of mine would be the Ideal Tool Backpack for hauling your stuff around. Sometimes there's a lot of walking involved in getting to and from jobsites, and being able to carry your tools on your back is a lot nicer than carrying them in your hands. It's also nice having your hands free for carrying your lunch box around!

Congratulations on getting in! Keep up a good attitude and you'll do fine. Don't let anyone get on your nerves. 8 hours is 8 hours, make the best of it at all times.

Knipex for Lineman's pliers: (with or without crimper). Their grip and cutting edge are significantly better than any other brand I've tried.

Wera for screwdrivers: I recommend the XXL 3 set. For sale here.

I still like Klein for strippers. I use the Kurve everyday and the Katapult for wire with thick insulation like PV wire.

Fluke for your meter. Most people recommend the T5 for basic stuff, but the 323 has a proper clamp and removable leads for the same price.

Knipex Cobras for your channel lock style pliers. These are absurdly good and have saved my ass a couple times.

I also recommend buying a Knipex Pliers Wrench. I own a 7-inch and a 10-inch pair and they're way better than a traditional adjustable wrench.

Stanley newest Leverlock tape measures are just as good as Milwaukee's tape and less bulky for half the price.

Milwaukee's Fastback series are the best utility knives by a pretty wide margin. I use the compact one, but that's a matter a preference.

I Love This Greenlee Drill/Tap set!

And of course my Wera Screwdriver Set. Makes dealing with terminals a breeze.

Everyone here seems to like Milwaukee power tools, but I have a Milwaukee drill/driver, but seriously, I prefer the 12V Bosch drill and impact driver. I was trying to use the brand new Milwaukee to drive a 1/4" lag bolt into my dock, and it stalled about 4 threads in. Grabbed the 8 year old Bosch, and drove it all 3 inches down without a sweat.

ETA: Something I only pull out once in a blue moon, but when I do need it, a good Fox and Hound is an absolute bloody necessity! I have that one for general wires, and my Fluke network test kit one for Coax/Copper Ethernet. I wish there was some way for someone to make one for fiber, but oh well, that's next generation physics.

I guess I should also say, the GreenLee Slug-Buster knockout set is amazing. No time spent trying to pop out slugs from the punches.

Oh, lord, I could go on...

Okay, one last one, sitting on my desk: a Brady printer. I can use that to print wire labels FAST (Real Fast), directly importing from a wire run list in a CSV format, but it also does legend plates, and pushbutton/switch plates. Godly.

Okay, I'm done.

No wait.. .One more, for instrumentation guys: Fluke 4-20mA Clamp on... LOVE IT

Okay, I'm really, REALLY Done

Klein Tools 92906 ProPack 6 Apprentice Tool Set for Trade Professionals (6-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKONLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qm5EAbQVA3JFH

That’s a good deal. It has lineman pliers, diagonal cutters, needle nose, wire strippers, and flat/ Phillips screwdrivers.

Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Cushion Grip Handle, Industrial Strength Bits Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yp5EAbSKE4D2A

This is a good all purpose screwdriver to carry around

Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq5EAbTTZ8GYW

This is a non contact voltage tester and it might just save you some pain/your life

Channellock 440 12-Inch Tongue and Groove Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xr5EAbWNKDP5C

You should probably get 2 pairs of these. It’ll help you twist on couplings and stuff

Stanley 33-725 25-Feet FatMax Tape Measure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002PV66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xs5EAbGVWXZDV

A lot of people like these tape measures for their larger claws

Klein Tools 98002BT Bottle Opener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00093GENU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4u5EAb52FZ742

This will help for when you go home

>I need a 'my grandpa was an electrician and his janky house never caught on fire' fix

OK:

ALCI cord from an unwanted/broken/thrift-store hair dryer, with the hair-dryer cut from the cord and replaced with a NEMA 5-15R extension cord female end, as an adapter for the conditioner.

The air conditioner may already have an overcurrent protective device as its plug, but this does not fill the same role as the Appliance Leakage Current Interrupter. An ALCI is essentially the same thing as a GFCI

Don't exceed the current rating of the cord, or of the house circuit. I find it is useful to map what few circuits there are, and even label them visibly, to help people remember "Oh, I can't plug in the hair dryer to outlets with a green dot when the big-screen TV is on". In such a house it is often easy in daylight to unscrew all but one fuse and then walk around with a lamp, putting a (1) sticker on each outlet that works on circuit 1, etc.

Most importantly, if it is still on fuses, make sure they have a good supply of the 15A variety and disappear the 30A spares.

I've used it with Romex a bit and braided cable once. If you're going for Romex, the Irwin one (like the one in the video) should work fine. As they show in the video, you basically do it twice. First one for the outer sheath and then again for the individual wires. The nice thing about the one in the video is it's auto-sizing. Just put the wire in and go. The one made by Klein isn't auto-sizing, but it has blades with notches for different sizes. For cord, or thicker cable, I really like the one Klein makes.

Again, I'm not a professional electrician at all. Most of what I've done is using THHN. For that kind of thing, I absolutely love it. I don't know how people just use a knife. That seems slow, but I'm sure there's a technique to it.

Klein is the industry's choice but not the only choice. Milwaukee makes some great tools too. Their new channel locks are really cool for $20 ea.

This kit here

If you price it all out individually you save a few bucks I think. I dunno there's just so much. My first year I probably spent $750 and I still didn't have near enough tools

Bags, drills, extra batteries, boots... it all adds up so fast. All in due time.

I found this little guy:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEF293V/ref=psdc_583328_t2_B07DSBTJ3Z?th=1

• Input voltage: DC8-35V, (12V/24 changes to 5V); Output parameter: DC5V 3A , 15W.
  
• Build-in identification resistor for apple , can charge iphone ipad， Application: use for charging cell phone, power for electronic device etc.
  
• Super-thin, small size, high efficiency, easy installation and use.
  
• Epoxy potting, seismic, water, moisture, dust, long term stable and reliable quality.
  
• Over voltage, over current, over temperature, short circuit, it can be auto protection, and can work in normal condition when restored.
  
  ​
  
  Can you confirm this would work? sorry for all the questions. It *looks* like it fits the parameters but I'd rather be safe than sorry. thanks again!

Couple thoughts. Is there maybe a problem with wiring? I would get one of these and try all the plugs to see if you have an issue like a bad ground. There are others that look like this one, but most will not give you as good of a test. Sperry Receptacle Tester ($8) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_hg-rDb7HMV8WX

For a good whole house protection from a unit like the Square D HEPD80, its common to run into issues with placement. I like using the EATON CHSPT2ULTRA, but similar specs. Its a little more difficult, but I have run them outside directly through the back of the breaker panel to a small metal wall box on the outside. Little more work, but this keeps the leads short (important) and even lets me check on the surge protector LEDs very easily). They normally have something like this at HD/Lowes - here is something similar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T5BRO4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_tr-rDbAYB73ZJ

As others have said, possible faulty breaker, but also you should be under 80% of the rated capacity of that circuit, so make sure that's the case.

It doesn't surprise me the breaker doesn't trip the moment you plug stuff in, they're designed to slowly trip with an overload unless it's a large spike.

Something you can easily do without an electrician is turn that breaker off, and check every appliance and electronic in the house to see if it's tripped. That'll help confirm your calculation is correct. (sounds like you may have done this already)

Also a kill a watt or similar is great for this kind of testing. You may find one of your devices themselves is drawing more than their rated power.

If this doesn't help, then the electrician is the way to go. He'll be able to analyze further, and swap breakers around etc.

Get yourself a good meter like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006Z3GZU?ie=UTF8&tag=vrefid-20&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B0006Z3GZU&linkCode=xm2

This is just the features you need on a daily basis as an electrician in a top-not durable case.

Don't get a shitty $20 meter.

Also the Klein tape measure is super solid:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QH6VJ6?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&tag=vrefid-20&creativeASIN=B005QH6VJ6&linkCode=xm2

My buddy has the Knipex lineman's pliers and I have to say they aren't anything special. He still uses his Kleins because they are just more comfortable to use.

I also prefer the Klein lineman's pliers but I like the Knipex for their channel locks and I REALLY like their pliers wrenches

GatorBacks - Some of the best bang for your buck tool bags you can get for an electrician.

https://www.amazon.com/GatorBack-Electricians-Combo-Pro-Comfort-Support/dp/B004EZJMSS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487042100&sr=8-2&keywords=gatorback+electrician+tool+belt

Occidentals - Pricey, some of the best bags you can get.

https://www.amazon.com/Occidental-Leather-5590-LG-Electricians/dp/B005Z5BFYU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487042145&sr=1-1&keywords=occidental+electrician+tool+belt

If you’re looking for a non contact voltage tester ( tick tracer) my personal favorite is the fluke.

Fluke 1AC-A1-II VoltAlert Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PMRkDb24ADV56

If you’re looking for a wiggy to check actual voltage I would recommend buying a volt meter. I currently use this one and love it.

Fluke T5600 Electrical Voltage, Continuity and Current Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rPRkDbNV768AZ

I wouldn't assume that three prong outlet is properly wired, Someone could have just thrown it in there even if there isn't a ground wire ran to the box. You could buy a plug tester like this and it will tell you if it's wired correctly. It is possible someone could have wired the outlet to trick a tester into thinking there was a ground by jumping from the neutral to the ground.

Ultimately i would recommend having an electrician inspect the wiring in your house. Your houses original wiring is old and may not have a means to ground available at every outlet. I would find someone you can trust to take a look at everything, You don't know how many people, qualified or not, have worked in your home.

Do yourself a favor and buy a circuit breaker finder, the tool has paid for itself for the time it saved me.

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-ET300-Electrical-Standard/dp/B003LHJSY8/

Just for the love of god what is Kline's fascination with stupid push buttons that get activated in the back of the van so i gotta hear beeping from that and the five wireless testers i have lost in other bags?

Gator back is great these are what all the guys at the shop I’m at use https://www.amazon.com/Gatorback-B240-Electricians-Pro-Comfort-Support/dp/B011VRPBRM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=gatorback+tool+belt&qid=1558451834&s=gateway&sprefix=gatorback&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
I got some suspenders from Home Depot too I think they make some but it’s definitely worth picking some up, save your back and hips a lot of trouble

I just noticed that Marvel MVA-200N Lineman's Pliers are on sale on Amazon for 50% off. I am considering getting myself another set, these are the best pliers that I have ever owned.
https://www.amazon.com/MVA-200N-Linemans-Drop-Forged-Sharp-edge-Electricians/dp/B00CJBYVXA/ref=sr_1_34?keywords=linemans+pliers&qid=1575048990&sr=8-34

Non-contact voltage tester is what I'd use. I linked a Fluke, but you should be able to pick up something comparable for around the house usage for around $20.

I'd bet it's 120v, and if a doorbell doesn't sound inside the house when you press the button, it's probably disconnected.

If not, there's a wire shoved in the walls or ceiling somewhere that's going hot every time you press the button.

Good luck.

Something like this? Seems a little extreme for my use case but looks awesome!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EZJMSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qXPjDbRJB4JH4

For non contact testers fluke makes one of the best ones.
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-VoltAlert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O

This one will let you isolate the exact wire in the panel/box that is on, versus other testers that are so sensitive it will tic on wires that are merely around other wires that are hot.

In any case all electricians need to have a non contact tester in their bag, it helps keep everyone alive.

Why not just get something like this? Walking back and forth or having someone help you seems like it would be a better idea than drop lights all over the place.

3M Hand Wire Connector Driver WCD-H https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CGLGUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NMVozbEPHEJM4

I use this for all splices. I'm 26 and have had guys ask why I use that. I tell them I'll show them in 20 years when I don't have wrist issues. Works fantastic.

Try to buy cheap junk from Walmart or Amazon until you know exactly what you want. You don't need a $60 pair of pliers or a $300 drill when you're learning.

• Safety glasses
  
  
• Linesman pliers (high leverage pliers that can also cut wires)
  
  
• Diagonal cutting pliers (wire cutters)
  
  
• Long reach needle nose pliers
  
  
• Wire strippers.
  
  
• 25 foot tape measure
  
  
• Hammer
  
  
• Multimeter that can check voltage and resistance. It doesn't need to be accurate.
  
  
• Receptacle tester that looks like this
  
  
• No contact voltage tester like this
  
  
• A magnetic dish for holding screws. Seriously. Losing screws is not fun. A big magnet can also be useful if you drop a bunch of screws or nails on the floor.
  
  
• Ziplock bags. I always end up needing bags for things. A small bag full of clean napkins is a great thing to have.
  
  
• Knife with a sheepsfoot blade like this
  
  
• Tool box. Get one that is big and cheap. I paid $10 for mine and it holds everything listed above.

I don't know what kind of work you do, I do everything, and once in awhile these save the day. They aren't tools I use often but they make life easier sometimes

Screw Extractor set

Knipex Plier Wrench

Klein tube cutter

Deep sockets in small case with an Impact Adaptor

Klein cct finder

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKONLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_To29AbVWRS9KT

Good hand tool set to start with

Ok that is understandable.

By its listing you cannot use the one mentioned as it was not indented for the flexible cord you have (used for 16/3, 14/3, or 12/3 SJTW cable).

Tower used to sell this 2 prong version which seems to be discontinued but you might be able to find if you call a local electrical store. Otherwise, you should be better off using this or this made for two wire equipment.

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-92906-ProPack6-Apprentice/dp/B004EKONLY

I recommend this set of hand tools and Milwaukee Fuel for your drills.

Without knowing what he's already got it's hard to say. He's probably already got all the basics. I'm just assuming he's already got boardsaws, tape measures, screwdriver sets, plier sets and so forth.

I'll list off a couple of things I would rather not live without:

[Irwin wire strippers] (http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-2078300-Self-Adjusting/dp/B000OQ21CA) These are totally awesome.

[Non contact voltage detector] (http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-VoltAlert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1449993757&sr=1-3&keywords=Non+contact+voltage+detector)

Stubby ratchet screwdriver

The young guys love these catapults https://www.amazon.com/Stripper-Electrical-Klein-Tools-11063W/dp/B00BC39YFQ#immersive-view_1542070820113

I prefer the regular strippers myself however

I don’t use them often, but the Klein automatic wire stripper works good if you are stripping a large amount of wire every day. It is bulky and some people have problems using them and don’t like them, so it may or may not be a good choice for you.

I have used the Klein kurve stripper before and it is decent, but I haven’t used one that goes from 10-24 awg. This model of Klein kurve wire stripper goes from 10-26 solid and 12-28 stranded.

I personally prefer and use wire strippers with thicker handles and use the Klein heavy duty wire stripper because of the thicker handles and I can twist wire and don’t need to carry lineman’s pliers. I don’t strip wire below 14 awg often so I just keep a cheap pair of strippers in my tool bag for those smaller sizes.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-11063W-Katapult-Stripper/dp/B00BC39YFQ

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^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

I use a twirly it’s great never will go back.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Hand-Connector-Driver-WCD-H/dp/B001CGLGUY/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1536976071&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ideal+wire+nut+driver

Here is the non-mobile link from the comment above
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I think Ideal made one that has an offset shank, similar to the old Klein offset cabinet blade screwdrivers. I have one somewhere - the plastic wire nut head is red plastic, and the handle is red and black.

Edit: Never mind, I guess it's a 3M tool.

Those look like the alligators, I think he's referring to these which I've heard great things about but I don't quite do enough work where they'd be needed to justify them for myself.

Get a wirenut spinning wrench

3M Hand Wire Connector Driver WCD-H https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CGLGUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RhxLDbKD9XD82

Klein katapult wire strippers

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-11063W-Katapult-Stripper/dp/B00BC39YFQ

This is one of those specialty tools that was mentioned. I use mine whenever i have a lot of makeup to do, or when i am doing control work with a lot of wires to land. Most guys don't have a set and wouldn't buy themselves one, so a good option for a gift! Thats how i got mine.

It looks like you're trying to format a word into a link. Try this instead:

> [this](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EJ332O)

Result: this

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If you're going to be in heavy commercial then I like these I have them and really like them. Some other guys I work with have the Klien ones from Home Depot or these They are really expensive but will last 5+ years

You want a Kill-A-Watt if it is a gas heater and is powered from a 120v socket.

More info is needed if it is electric, like make, model, and how it’s wired in.

Disclaimer: I have no idea what kind of heat pump this is, nor do I really know too much about HVAC systems. I'm guessing this unit uses electricity to heat your house. Most heating units in my area are natural gas, so I'm making some assumptions here.

First thing I would do is throw a clamp ammeter around the unit's feeders. Just to rule out other heavy draws and you can also get a general idea just how much power each circuit is pulling. Something like this would work:
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-T5-600-Voltage-Continuity-Current/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1421884535&sr=8-12&keywords=fluke+amp+clamp

Outside of that, its hard for me to really help you without knowing exactly what the unit's specifications are. Maybe you just have a really large heater and really, really lousy insulation in your home. I just don't know. One thing is for sure, that is a very big electrical bill.

You can get a plug in wattmeter like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009MDBU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505918439&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=watt+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=41jXOUcM37L&ref=plSrch

The only device you listed that i think would consume power when off might be your guitar amp. This will prove that even if your devices are draining power your talking dollars a year if not less.

A typical residential circuit is 15 amps.

So you can draw 15*120 = 1800 watts from it. A little less than that, you shouldn't load a circuit to more than 80%, so 1440 watts.

Even small space heaters draw 1000+ watts. That's the reason it's tripping - that leaves under 440 watts for the TV, cable box, and your computer.

https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU

You need a gadget like this to tell you how much things really draw.

OP, you need a 12V to USB adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/HOMREE-Converter-Voltage-Regulator-Standard/dp/B01MEF293V

Wire that in place of the old clock, and plug your USB-powered gadget into it.

USB devices use so little power, you won't have to change any fuses or wires.

I bought this and it’s served me very well. All the tools priced out individually are a lot more than $88 bucks. I generally use these tools and an impact.

Tool Set with 3 Pliers, Wire Stripper and Cutter, 2 Screwdrivers 6 Piece Klein Tools 92906 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKONLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oruZCbZ15B962

Most online calculators will say "for reference only" or something to that effect, meaning that the numbers that the site produces are only educated guesses. The A/C unit has had its electrical draw actually measured by the manufacturer as required by law, and is accurate.

1.75 kW will equal just over 15 amps. You can easily prove exactly what the unit draws by getting a [Kill-A-Watt] (http://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU) and measuring the load yourself. The Kill-a-watt claims a 0.2% accuracy.

You can buy a plug-in power meter which will show you the actual draw of your equipment. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ZOKgDb4DAWX19

You're probably only using a couple of amps most of the time unless you have a really crazy rig. Easier to make decisions about what you need when you have actual data.

This tool is worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Standard-Klein-Tools-ET300/dp/B003LHJSY8

Yeah, I used one of these. Not sure how accurate they are, but you could be right about it reading another wire.

Tool Set with 3 Pliers, Wire Stripper and Cutter, 2 Screwdrivers 6 Piece Klein Tools 92906 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKONLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9KPRCb0BHWQMZ

This might be overkill for a person who doesn't use it on a daily basis but this is what most electricians I know use: https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Electrical-Voltage-Continuity-Current/dp/B0006Z3GZU/

there is a t5-600, same tester but does up to 600volts instead of 1000. (Which you wont need) its $90 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=twister_B06W57QS6F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

> classic Fluke

You mean this one?

Greenlee DTAPKIT 6-32 to 1/4-20 6-Piece Combination Drill and Tap Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041FIR1E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KAXHAbSZCPCY3

This has come in handy more than a few times...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0041FIR1E/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1416195164&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

And my everyday carry Kershaw knife.......http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AU6NWP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1416195515&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Off the job...... http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-98002BT-Bottle-Opener/dp/B00093GENU

https://www.amazon.com/Gatorback-B240-Electricians-Pro-Comfort-Support/dp/B011VRPBRM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?adgrpid=56101159815&hvadid=274777703500&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9027196&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=15328803387905789535&hvtargid=kwd-331725865124&hydadcr=20372_9690622&keywords=gatorback+tool+belt&qid=1557623274&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I've had one of these for about 15 years and have never used it. Don't even remember where I got it exactly, but it came with another one with an offset handle that I did try once just to check it out. Didn't care for it at all.

What about these strippers? They cut the insulation almost right through. https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-11063W-Katapult-Stripper/dp/B00BC39YFQ

If you leave your PC on all day they do use alot of energy as portion of your total bill which may be why hes upset.

However, its nothing as a portion of the maximum power a 15 amp circuit can deliver (1800 watts)... Figure 300W for your CPU+GPU in game, 75W monitor, maybe 75W for extra stuff you have running on your desk, thats 450W or 25% of the circuits capacity. Some truely monster PC's can use more, if you have multiple GPU's for example. But honestly, its not your PC.

To test the amount of power your devices are drawing you could use a Kill-A-Watt. To test the whole circuit draw you would need an amp clamp inside the panel, which your family wont let you touch. Are there window air conditioners running in your house? Might they be plugged into the same circuit?

But since you say the house is new, like I said in the other thread, I think this has something to do with your breakers (should be arc fault interrupters?) and a specific device you have thats upsetting them.

the only thing you can do as a tenant is get a receptacle tester then you can give your landlord more info on the problem

This sounds like a shielding problem, you can buy a cheap receptacle tester to tell you if you have problems with the wiring in your home.

https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487102109&sr=8-3&keywords=receptacle+tester

OAONAN GFCI Replacement Plug Assembly 2-Prongs with Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Safety RCD Protection for Pool Pump,Power Pressure Washer,Air Conditioner,Hair Dryer and so on (15Amp 2-wires) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PRH8H3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R3FYCbGRQ5Y8V

Monitors will pull 1 to 1.5 amps

1000w psu pulls 8.5

Should be around 13 amps on the heavy side

U can buy a watt meter

P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_gMJ1BbK0DZDM3

I'm not an electrician, but I have a pair of those and I hate them. I bought myself a pair of these and haven't looked back once.

I'll parrot my usual recommendation.

Stick it against all sides of a wire, no beep no problem.

The fluke T600 is all I’ve needed so far ( I’m a 1st year apprentice working service in commercial/industrial settings) the only two cons that will eventually push me off to buying one of the pricier Flukes down the line are 1. It’s amp-probe horns are 1/2” wide so I can’t fit it around the thicker feeder wires in most panels and it doesn’t measure DC voltage (which I have yet to need to do, I have a $14 multimeter for that if it ever pops up) aside from those two things the t600 the goto meter for both my journeyman and I. If it gets lost or stolen it’s not terribly expensive but it’s also not so inexpensive that you sacrifice the quality that you need. According to my journeyman don’t worry about “true RMS” unless your going to buy an expensive “big boy” meter.

Here’s a link to the one I bought. Keep your eye out for “damaged package returns” typically that just means someone opened the box and decided to return it and it knocks $10-$15 off the price because the box isn’t “pretty”. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ORAPAb4KD9882