Reddit mentions: The best camera & camcorder viewfinders
We found 92 Reddit comments discussing the best camera & camcorder viewfinders. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 38 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
2. Altura Photo Viewfinder Eyepiece (22mm) Eye Cup Replacement for Nikon D780 D750 D7100 D7000 D5200 D5100 D5000 D3400 D3300 D3200 D3100 D3000 D600 D90 D80 D70 D60 DSLR Cameras
- NOTE: For camera models with large fold out, swiveable LCD screens - using an eyecup may prevent you from opening and closing your LCD screen freely. Please consider this before placing an order.
- Altura Photo Rubber Eyecup (Nikon 22MM) for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras. Comfortable ergonomic rubber design. Easy Installation.
- Altura Photo Rubber Eyepiece Eyecup for NIKON DSLR Cameras (D780 D750 D7000 D5100 D5000 D3200 D3100 D3000 D90 D80).
- Backed with DigitalGoja 90-Day 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
Features:
Specs:
Weight | 1 pounds |
Release date | July 2014 |
3. CEARI Universal Rubber Eyecup Eyepiece Viewfinder for Nikon D3000 D3100 D3200 D300 D300s D200 D90 D80 D70 D70s D60 D40 D40X DSLR Camera + Microfiber Clean Cloth
- Attaches to the viewfinder eyepiece minimizing extraneous light and vision fatigue
- Improves viewing comfort and prevents stray light from entering the viewfinder and diminishing contrast
- The Eyecup provides cushioning around the camera's eyepiece, and is especially useful to eyeglass wearers
- Refer to your for Nikon's user manual or manufacturer to ensure compatibility
- Package Contents: 1 x Universal Rubber Eyecup Eyepiece Viewfinder for Nikon, 1 x CEARI Clean Cloth
Features:
4. Kamerar Authentic Kamerar Qv-1 LCD Viewfinder View Finder for Canon 5d Mkiii 6d 7d 60d
The qv1 is one of our most affordable lcd viewfinders for dslr video camerasThe new qv1 uses an innovative magnetic quick release that inserts to a manfrotto 501pl compatible baseplateForward / back / left / right adjustments can be performed to fit a variety of popular dslr cameras that use a 3"3.2...
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 4.25 Inches |
Length | 8 Inches |
Weight | 1.6 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
Size | QV-1 |
5. Hoodman H-EYEN22S HoodEYE Camera Eyecup Eye Cup Viewfinder Eye Piece for Nikon D7500 D7200 D5600 D5500 D3500 D3400 D3300 D750
- Large performance eyecup seals out ambient light
- Hypoallergenic silicon rubber comfortable eyecup
- Specifically designed to replace OEM Nikon eyepieces
- Easily upgrade your camera eyepiece in just a few seconds.
- Eyecup rotates to accommodate right or left eyed shooters.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.25 Inches |
Length | 2 Inches |
Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
Width | 2.5 Inches |
Size | H-EYEN22S |
6. Nikon DK-21 Rubber Eyecup Nikon Digital SLR Cameras
Replacement rubber eyecup for Nikon SLRsAttaches to the viewfinder minimizing extraneous light and vision fatigue
Specs:
Color | black |
Height | 1.5 Inches |
Length | 2.25 Inches |
Weight | 0.0220462262 Pounds |
Width | 1.5 Inches |
7. Neewer 2.8X 3:2 DSLR LCD Screen Viewfinder Extender for Canon EOS Rebel T3i/600D and 60D
Magnification: 2.8XIt turns your video enabled HDSLR LCD screen into a huge electronic viewfinder for precise image evaluation.Stabilizes camera when shooting video handheldSpontaneously transform yr video enabled DSLR into a discreet handheld video camera.Allows the use of LCD in bright daylight ou...
Specs:
Height | 3.23 Inches |
Length | 3.62 Inches |
Width | 3.62 Inches |
8. Blackmagic Design URSA Studio Viewfinder | 7 inch Screen Live Production V-Lock Plate SDI Monitor Connection Detachable Sunshade Viewfinder for URSA Mini
- Blackmagic URSA Studio Viewfinder
- In the Studio or On Location, Designed for Live Production
- Easy to position, adjust and control while live on air!
- Get talkback, tally, camera control and more over SDI
- Remotely control URSA Mini over SDI
Features:
Specs:
Height | 16 Inches |
Length | 17 Inches |
Width | 8 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
9. Canon EVF-DC1 Electronic Viewfinder
- 2.36MP XGA LCD Monitor
- Displays All Shooting Information
- High Eyepoint; Dioptric Adjustment: 3.0 to +1.0
- 90 Upward Tilt
- Adjust Brightness via Camera's Monitor Mounts on Camera's Accessory Shoe
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2.2 Inches |
Length | 1.3 Inches |
Weight | 0.15 Pounds |
Width | 1.6 Inches |
Release date | May 2014 |
Number of items | 1 |
10. Authentic Kamerar QV-1 LCD Viewfinder View Finder for BMPCC (for Black Magic Pocket Cinema Camera)
It uses an innovative magnetic quick release that inserts to a 501PL compatible baseplate.Prevents annoying glare on your screen. It locks in the downward setting, but flips up quickly to be used as a simple sun hood or to access your touch screen LCD.Magnify your LCD screen image by 2.5xThe Package...
11. Ricoh GV-2 External Mini Viewfinder
For GXR Camera SystemAttaches via Hot Shoe28mm Equivalent Frame1:1 Aspect Ratio MarksCase Included
Specs:
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Width | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
12. Feelworld F570 Camera Monitor 5.7" 4K HDMI Ultra HD 1920x1080 Field Video LCD IPS Display 1400:1 High Contrast for Constant CAM, DSLR Rig, Camcorder Kit, Hand Stabilizer
- Ruled Pages with Page Numbers and Fields for Subject, Date and Book Number
- Hard Bound Book with Reinforced Imitation Leather Cover, and Placeholder Ribbon
- Smyth Sewn - Books lies flat when open; Archival Quality, Acid-Free Paper
- Page Dimensions: 8.5" X 11" (21.6cm X 25.4cm )
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 3.22834 Inches |
Length | 5.82676 Inches |
Weight | 0.661386786 Pounds |
Width | 0.7334631 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
13. Authentic KAMARAR QV-1 M LCD View Finder for MIRRORLESS Cameras Canon T4I PANASONIC GH2 GH3 Sony A7 A7R
- The innovative magnetic quick release design allows the QV-1 M to be inserted and removed from a solid metal quick release baseplate attached to the bottom of your camera. Once the QV-1 M baseplate is attached to your camera, you can mount directly to supported Manfrotto video fluid heads.
- Forward / Back / Left / Right adjustments can be performed to fit a variety of popular DSLR Cameras that use a 3"-3.2" LCD screen.
- An adjustable diopter ring moves the primary lens forward or back if your image does not appear focused. Prevent annoying glare on your screen so that you can see true color saturation, contrast, and proper exposure. The QV-1 remains locked in the downward setting, but flips up quickly to be used as a simple sun hood or to access your touch screen LCD.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 3.94 Inches |
Length | 7.87 Inches |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 4.13 Inches |
Size | QV-1M |
14. Ikan LCD Viewfinder for VL35 4K Monitor, 3.5", for Use w/VL35 Monitor, Includes Case (EVF35) - Black
Designed for use with the VL35 monitorHigh quality adjustable dioptre for the sharpest imageHeavy duty soft touch plasticIncludes soft carry case
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 4.2 Inches |
Length | 7.2 Inches |
Weight | 0.75 Pounds |
Width | 8 Inches |
Size | 3.5" |
Number of items | 1 |
15. Blackmagic Design URSA Viewfinder, URSA and URSA Mini Compatible, 1920 x 1080 Color OLED Display
PURPOSE: The Blackmagic URSA Viewfinder is the perfect accessory to make outdoors and handheld shooting with your URSA or URSA Mini digital film camera easyHIGH QUALITY: You get an extremely high quality viewfinder with 1080HD resolution display, true precision glass optics, built in tally light and...
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 4.4 Inches |
Length | 11.2 Inches |
Weight | 1.99959271634 Pounds |
Width | 8.4 Inches |
Release date | January 2020 |
Size | 1 |
Number of items | 1 |
16. 2.8x 3.0" 3:2 LCD Viewfinder Magnifier Eyecup Extender V3 for Canon 600d 60d T3i
4mm magnetic bracket The viewfinder is mounted onto the camera with the use of a magnetic bracket.The bracket should be attached with a narrow strap of tape.The viewfinder features four magnets on the mounting side,and it can be easily and quickly detached from your camera High-quality, soft-touch ...
17. GGS Perfect HD DSLR LCD Foldable Viewfinder with 3.0x Magnification
Perfect LCD foldable viewfinder, designed for LCD screen viewing of digital camerasEspecially suitable for DSLR video photography on siteFeatures 2 framing modes3X magnification and standardEasy to switch between both modes
Specs:
Height | 2.9 Inches |
Length | 6.5 Inches |
Weight | 0.3527396192 Pounds |
Width | 3.8 Inches |
18. Kamerar QV-1 LCD View Finder for Canon 5D Mark III / II / 6D / 7D / 60D / 70D and Nikon D800 / D800E / D610 / D600 / D7200 / D90
The new QV-1 uses an innovative magnetic quick release that inserts to a manfrotto 501PL compatible baseplateClear and Sharp Images.Focus with Ease:The QV-1 LCD View Finder will magnify your lcd screen image by 2.5X so that you can easily focus on your subject,and will also offer a true view of your...
Specs:
Height | 11.81 Inches |
Length | 4.72 Inches |
Width | 4.72 Inches |
19. SUPON 2.8x 3" 3:2 LCD Viewfinder Magnifier Rubber Eyecup Extender V3 for Canon 60D 600D T3i
.Leave your camera recording for approximately 12 minutes before and just after the frame is applied – as the camera gets moderately warm during the recording it helps to develop a strong initial bond between the metal interface and your camera body.But while you apply the interface frame set your...
20. TARION TR-V1 Universal LCD Display View Finder Viewfinder for 3.0" 3.2" Screen DSLR Canon 500D 550D 600D 650D 700D 60D 70D 5D MarkII 5D MarkIII 6D 7D 7D2 Nikon D90 D7000 D7 100D 5000D 5100D 5200D 530
- 50-count package of Large Band-Aid Brand of First Aid Products Tru-Absorb Sterile Gauze Sponges for minor wound care. Use absorbent gauze pads for cleaning and applying medication to minor wounds, cuts, and burns
- These sterile first aid gauze pads feature a special low-linting design which helps provide cleaner wounds and may help prevent irritation
- Each large gauze sponge measures 4 inches by 4 inches in size, making them the ideal first aid coverings for minor cuts, scrapes, and burns. Band-Aid Brand absorbent gauze sponges can also be used as a cushioning dressing for wounds
- Sterile sponges feature soft cushioning offers extra comfort when cleaning dirt and contaminants that may cause infection from the injured area
- Use these first aid gauze sponges for cleaning and prepping wounds, or for applying medication. The individually wrapped gauze pads are a perfect addition to first aid kits and at-home wound care supplies
Features:
Specs:
Weight | 1.0582188576 Pounds |
🎓 Reddit experts on camera & camcorder viewfinders
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where camera & camcorder viewfinders are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Beyond DSLRs and mirrorless DSLMs (such as the A7 series), here are the cameras you might want to consider below $10,000 (in ascending price order):
Below $3000
In this category, I recommend the [$1999 Sony PXW-X70] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NPAJH8I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00NPAJH8I&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) professional camcorder.
This camera has a relatively large 1" sensor, pro XLR mic inputs, records to a broadcast quality 10-bit 4:2:2 codec, has an SDI out connection and a [$499 paid upgrade path] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2Fsocbkzx70fx.html) to 3840x2160p Ultra High Definition "4K" resolution.
In addition, the X70's optical steady shot system makes for very stable handheld shots, as seen in the walking shots in this travel piece: [San Blas Islands of Panama. December 2014.] (http://player.vimeo.com/video/119601178)
Here are a few more examples:
Documentary
Musical Performance
Here is the image quality this camera can produce after the 4K upgrade (please watch at 2160p and your monitor's highest resolution):
In my view, the X70 with the 4K upgrade is best all-in-one (power zoom lens included) 4K video solution you can get below $3000.
Below $4000
In this price class, I recommend the [$3495 4K Super 35mm JVC GY-LS300] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00USBVISE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00USBVISE&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).
With the new v2.0 firmware update, it records to 4096x2160 Digital Cinema Initiative (DCI) 4K, as well as 3840x2160 Ultra High Definition (UHD), 2048x1080 DCI 2K and 1920x1080p HD (up to 60fps).
It also has a flat LOG profile, which increases its dynamic range - and it has standard video camera features that still/video cameras lack: dual card slots, SDI out, a top handle, built in ND filters, etc.
This is an 8-bit camera, but it has 4:2:2 color subsampling and will stand up to grading pretty well.
Here's a UHD file shot with cine gamma (before the J LOG release):
Here's a nice J-LOG piece from Dan Chung at newssshooter.com:
And here's a very quick J-LOG camera shelf test at 4096x2160 Cinema 4K resolution from Gert Tetzner at avmediafactory:
A few more examples of the image quality this camera can produce:
...and 1080p on Vimeo:
A very nice overview from Zacuto:
And a couple of useful reviews from Rick Young's Movie Machine:
With a [$133.43 Commlite CM-EF-MFT adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011I2WWQ8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B011I2WWQ8&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), you can mount Canon lenses with aperture control and image stabilization enabled.
I have shot with this camera - it is an easy-to-use, very high quality Super 35mm camcorder and a very good value for your money.
Below $4500
At [$4195, you might want to consider the new Panasonic AG-DVX200] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016043JWA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B016043JWA&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).
With the DVX200, Panasonic has put a relatively large micro 4/3 sized sensor in a traditional camcorder form factor with a 13x fixed parfocal power zoom lens, 5-axis in-body stabilization, dual card slots, built-in NDs and 4K/60p.
And it produces high quality images:
And a nice first look from Zacuto:
This camera type (fixed, non-interchangeable lens camcorder) limits your creative flexibility, but is ideal for events and run & gun, where changing lenses can sometimes slow you down.
Below $5500
In this price class, I recommend the new [$2995 shoulder mounted URSA Mini 4K] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FBMURSAM40KEF.html), which records RAW or edit-ready 10-bit ProRes 4:2:2 internally and is just now starting to ship. It has a Canon EF lens mount, so it is 100% compatible with your current lenses.
The body is only $2995, but you'll need a [$1495 EVF] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WRB14EQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00WRB14EQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), a [$95 battery plate] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FBMURSAVLBPL.html), a [$285.49 CFast 2.0 card] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LL4QUTE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00LL4QUTE&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), a battery solution (such as this [$39.95 Sony L to V mount adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XIQ4Y8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B016XIQ4Y8&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and a couple of [$8.39 Sony L batteries] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)), and a [$395 shoulder mount kit] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FBMURSASHMKM.html) to get it up and running.
Here are a few URSA Mini Image Quality Examples:
This camera is decent in low light with fast lenses (as seen in the sample videos), but not great.
This camera also lacks built-in ND filters, so you'll need a matte box or screw-on NDs.
That said, it has the best codecs among the cameras on this list and, in my view, will give you the highest quality images.
Below $6000
If you don't need the gradability and convenience of internal RAW recording, but you want internal ND filters, inexpensive SD card media, a small form factor and light weight (1.5 lbs. body-only) - you might want to consider the UHD [$5599 Sony FS5] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FSOPXWFS5.html).
The FS5 can produce images that look like this:
Below $8000
In this price class, you should consider the shoulder mounted 4K [$7999 Sony FS7] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P7AK580/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00P7AK580&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). It is a proven doc camera with power zoom compatibility that has produced 1080p content for CNN and others.
Here is the image quality this camera can produce:
Hope this is helpful, good luck with your upgrade - and Happy New Year!
...
Let me know if you're still looking to purchase a BMPCC. I purchased two units for a shoot and ended up just using one. I'm keeping the camera I used, since I love it so much and can sell you the second one, which is brand-new and factory sealed.
With that said, here are my 2 cents regarding the BMPCC.
While the camera body itself will fall into your $2,300 budget, be ready to spend some extra money on additional items (i.e.: extra batteries, sd cards, lenses, nd filter, cage/rig., speed booster, sun shade/monitor/viewfinder, etc.)
I. BATTERIES: These things eat up batteries. A fully charged battery can last anywhere from 30-50 minutes, depending on your camera settings and whether or not you leave the camera on standby or turn it on/off between takes. So, if you're planning on a full day's shoot, and have no access to run the camera off the AC adapter, be sure to have plenty of batteries on hand. Luckily, the batteries run about $10-$15 each, depending on the brand. Your other option is utilizing a battery pack solution, like the one seen here: BMPCC Battery Pack Solution. This is just one of very many examples out there, for a battery pack option.
II. SD CARDS: While the camera produces a great image and 13 stops of dynamic range, it comes at a cost of taking up a good amount of card and hard drive space, especially if you plan on filming RAW. On a 64GB card you will get around 16 minutes of runtime in RAW. So, depending on your filming situation, you need to have enough cards on hand, just like the batteries. If RAW isn't necessary for your shoots, then you can always use their ProRes options, which will take up less card space and give you more recording time, on different card speeds. Just be sure to check their website to see compatible cards, you can't just throw in any SD card. I've been using SanDisk's 64GB SDXC Memory Card Extreme Pro Class 10 UHS-I 95 MB/s, and haven't experienced any issues [i.e.: dropped frames in ProRes/RAW] thus far. This particular card can run anywhere from $90+ each, which can add up quickly. Just like the battery pack solution, you can purchase an external recorder, such as the Atmos Ninja 2.
III. AUDIO: The on-board microphone is unusable for production. It should basically be used as a reference point. The best way would be to get separate audio through an audio recorder and microphone, then sync in post.
IV. LENSES/FILTERS/BOOSTER: The camera utilizes a Micro-4/3 mount. If you already own Canon or Nikon lenses from your DSLR, just purchase an adapter. There's also a crop factor of 2.88x on the camera, a Speed Booster, such as the one from Metabones, reduces the crop factor to 1.75x and gives about an extra stop on the aperture.
Other optional accessories: ND Filters
V. LIGHTING/NOISE/ASA: From my experience, the camera loves light and doesn't do too well in low-light situations compared to DSLR's. You can apply noise reduction in post, but be aware with low-lit scenes.
VI. SUNSHADE/EXT. MONITOR/LCDVF: If you're planning to film outside in the sun, the LCD screen on the BMPCC is extremely hard to see. A sunshade (i.e.: LCD4Video), external monitor (i.e.: smallHD) or an LCD viewfinder (i.e.: Zacuto, Kinotehnik) is a must.
VII. STABILIZATION: With the 2.88x crop factor, the camera's sensor and it's body's shape and size, going handheld isn't recommended, even though you can use an IS lens and apply stabilization in post. Be prepared to use a tripod/monopod/stabilized rig./etc.
VIII: POST-PRODUCTION [WORKFLOW, COLOR CORRECTION]: With it's flat profile in film mode, be prepared to invest time with color correction to achieve the look you want. LUTS are very helpful as a starting point in this situation and Davinci Resolve Lite is a great program to learn, plus it's free.
IX. SETBACKS & ISSUES: Many people have had issues with the camera, straight out of the box, mainly with hot pixels, which I experienced with my first order and was fine with my second. Whether it's a firmware issue or a bad batch, just be aware that this camera isn't 100% with it's current version. From what I understand, basically all units will have hot/stuck pixels when the settings are at its highest ISO and shutter angle, but you should probably not be filming in those settings to begin with.
X. FINAL THOUGHTS: This little camera produces a stunning image with the appropriate filming and color correction applied. It's small body makes it easy for me to be less noticeable when trying to film discreetly, as opposed to my geared up DSLR setup. Of course adding attachments to the BMPCC will add bulk, but for my light setup, this isn't the case. With the free DaVinci Resolve Lite software and its low price point, it's an awesome camera in my opinion.
Hope that helps.
lincthesink had some good comments, here's what I'd like to add on to them:
1 - You shouldn't really be depending solely on your LCD monitor to judge exposure of the scene. So many factors are in play here (the light hitting the monitor itself, the general light conditions of the scene, etc.) and can cause the apparent exposure on the LCD screen to vary. What you should be doing is base your exposure judgements on a histogram or waveform display that should be overlaid on top of your screen. You can then check if anything is "clipping" in the scene (peaks going beyond the right or left extremes) and adjust accordingly. I believe the 60D has this feature natively, but you should download the Magic Lantern firmware for your camera anyway. It has tons of videography tools that are of great help - you can customize your waveform display settings, you can turn on "zebras" (which highlight underexposed/overexposed areas in the way lincthesink is talking about), you can turn on focus peaking, and much more.
2 - I haven't had much experience with this problem firsthand, but my guess would be that your actors/scenes are on a different plane than where the tripod is set up, so even though your camera's "levels" are accurate for the tripod plane, the plane your actors are on might be crooked. This is a fairly simple fix in post-production though, at the cost of some video quality (rotate the image and zoom in as necessary).
3 - Nailing focus is one of the most difficult things about shooting on DSLR, especially if you're going for that cinematic shallow depth of field look. If you preset your focus with the digital zoom and you shoot on a tripod, the image will always remain in sharp focus as long as there is no movement in the scene. Because I'm guessing most of your scenes contain movement (otherwise, it would be a boring film!), you often need to compensate for the movement by adjusting focus during the shoot - this is called "pulling focus" and is such a difficult job that it is a highly paid role all by itself on a full film set.
On DSLRs, you can maximize the chances that your shot will be in focus by: 1) stopping down the aperture. The smaller the aperture, the greater the amount of the scene that will be in focus. This is often the most practical solution to solving focus issues, but it requires that you have a lot of light to shine on the scene (to make up for the loss of light entering the lens). 2) using a wide-angle lens. The smaller the focal length, the greater the amount of the scene that will be in focus. This is why GoPro footage usually always has all of the scene in sharp focus - their fisheye lens combined with a narrow aperture ensures that everything will be in focus. 3) pulling focus during the shot. This is the solution that most filmmakers tend to use, as oftentimes you will want to use a close-up lens with a wide open aperture for artistic effects, or because there's not enough light in the scene to justify stopping down. However, physically putting your hand on the focus ring and turning it to adjust the focus tends to shake the camera too much and is generally not ideal. Thus, it's best to invest in a "follow focus", which is basically a gear that attaches to the focus ring that allows for external control of the focus (typically by a knob). You can get simple ones for as cheap as $3.50, but the more "legit" ones typically start at around $50.
I could write a whole other post just about the process of pulling focus, but there are basically two ways to do it: by eye, or by pre-marking the scene. If you want to pull focus by eye, I'd suggest investing in an external monitor for your DSLR or at the very least a viewfinder extender. This will allow you to see the image and judge focus much more clearly. You'll want to turn on focus peaking in Magic Lantern, which will highlight the in-focus areas with brightly colored dots. Then, as the scene progresses, you can adjust the focus nearer or farther away as your subjects move. This method is very hit-and-miss, but if you take time to develop this skill you will eventually get better at it. The second method is to first "block" your scene - have all your subjects move to where they will be moving, practice all the camera movements, etc. At certain points in the scene you will use a tape measure (or other distance measuring device) to measure the distance between the subject and your lens and write it down, making a marking on your lens or follow focus device so you know where to turn to at that point. When all this is done, during the actual shoot, you'll rely on these focus markings and measurements to operate the focus rather than looking at the scene. This has the potential to be much more spot-on than just doing it by eye, but it requires a lot more prep work and is typically a stand-alone job apart from the main camera operator (as it's difficult to move a camera and operate a follow focus at the same time!)
Hope this helps!
Let me play devil's advocate for a minute on the idea that "You sure picked a tough camera to learn on". I actually think the BMPCC is one of the easier cameras to get great images out of, due to it's massive dynamic range. If you're shooting outdoors, or anywhere there's decent light, with a native Micro Four Thirds lens like the Panny 14-42 you recommended, it's hard to screw it up. All you really need to do is use the iris and focus buttons. The iris button will stop down until nothing's over 100%, and although the focus button can hunt around quite a bit, it will usually get there. Besides, the focus peaking is pretty good for manual focus.
Forget about shooting raw at first. Shoot film gamma to ProRes LT or higher, 180 degree shutter, ISO 800. If you're "in the film industry", you'll probably be aware that all footage needs some basic color grading at a minimum. This is especially true for the Pocket. Use the Three Way Color Corrector in your editor, crank the saturation and contrast WAAAAY up, add a sharpening filter, and I think you'll be surprised at how fantastic the footage looks from this little cam.
BTW, the Pocket's screen is practically useless in sunlight, so at the minimum get a cheap $20 hood, and then eventually you'll want to graduate to a nice $200 loupe so you can really see what you're shooting.
I bought one of my Micro Four Thirds lenses used from KEH, and I can recommend them highly. Right now, you can pick up that Panny 14-42mm lens in excellent condition for around $90.
Sooner or later, you may want a zoom lens that is faster and doesn't change exposure when you zoom (like the 14-45, which is f3.5 at the wide end, and f5.6 at the telephoto end). If you want to go all out with a single lens that will work in the widest variety of situations, you might end up with the Panny 12-35mm at a constant f2.8. But it's a bit pricey. Ask around if anyone you know has an old Bolex 16mm camera. Many of those old C-mount prime lenses are very, very good, are a good size fit for the pocket, and mount with a simple, cheap adapter.
I look at the Pocket a lot like a digital version of a Bolex. It's the closest you can get to shooting Super-16mm film, and you can even use the same old lenses - hah! Except, instead of burning through expensive film and processing, you wipe the SD card and start again. I say learn the right way, and make owning the Pocket your own personal film school.
Snap. Focus. This will change the way you shoot more than anything and is much more intuitive than standard zone focusing techniques. Outdoors, I usually set it to 1.5m which makes it hyperfocal at f/9 and close enough to get most everything if you go down a few stops. Indoors, I tend to go with Spot AF because wider apertures require narrower DoF making Snap less useful. Set the AEL/AFL button to lock focus and display the current focal area distance range.
Customize your interface. Every single button on the GR can be remapped, so take full advantage of this to match your shooting style. I like shutter on the front wheel, aperture on the back lever and ISO first on the list to adjust when it is depressed. Fn-1 enables Snap Focus and Fn-2 adjusts Snap Distance. I don't assign the Effect button because I like to have everything accessible with one hand, but it can be set to any function also.
I usually shoot in manual with ISO at or below 1600 if possible, although the noise at 3200 can sometimes be tolerable. It seems to be more even and less colorful than the noise from Canon's APS-C sensors. TAv is an interesting mode that is somewhat unique and lets you fix both shutter and aperture. I don't use it much though because it ramps up the ISO aggressively to levels that are unusable if you're in moderately low light.
I tend to keep ISO and aperture pretty constant and mostly change shutter speed, usually between 200-500. A useful hidden feature while in manual mode allows you to automatically adjust the shutter for current light conditions by pressing the +/- button once. You can also set it to adjust aperture or both (One-Press M Mode). This is super helpful because you can stay in manual without missing unexpected shots in changing light conditions that would normally require time spent changing modes or making significant adjustments.
Stealth mode: turn off all LEDs and sounds, paint or tape over front logo and light, Display off (settings will still show briefly when you adjust anything), OVF if you want to compose (I like the GV-2, though no optical finder is super precise and I don't think it's a must-have)
Batteries: you can never have enough. Probably the only significant limitation of the GR, but fortunately they're small and charge quickly.
I bought a D90 as my first DSLR last June. I am very happy with it but Nikon reams you for software and cables, etc. I have seen D90's on craigslist with very low actuation's for $600 or even lower just recently. Do not buy the kit lens. Spend some extra money and buy a quality main lens like the 18-105 you mentioned. I have the 18-70. I think the 35mm f1.8 is a better fit for a crop sensor as a prime. Buy a battery grip for a more ergonomic feel (at least for me anyway). Get a good tripod with arca style mounting plate (no plastic). You will find it impossible to shoot video and focus smoothly, if at all, fair warning. Start a savings plan now to buy more lenses. Think about that slingshot some more and how it won't hold a lot once you want more...
Have lots of fun.
EDIT: Also, whatever you get I can't recommend this enough > http://www.amazon.com/Hoodman-H-EyeN22S-HoodEYE-Nikon-Square/dp/B001UGNKQE/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1279559271&sr=1-1 Use a nail file to sand down the bottom flange for best fit...
Hi /u/indieforge - congrats on the new BMPCC! I started out with a T2i and I think you're going to love the image quality you can get from this camera.
Since you already have a handle on the battery and storage issues, you have a head start on most folks who have made this transition.
Two other issues that you're probably aware of, but that have to be dealt with, in my view, are the crop factor and the crappy LCD.
If you don't plan to use the T3i and EF-S lenses for stills, I would go ahead and sell them and address the BMPCC's issues in this order [Referral Links]:
Without some sort of focal length reduction, the 3x crop is a problem. My widest lens is an old [Oly 11-22mm f2.8-3.5 for classic 4/3] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001M47FG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0001M47FG&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) that I adapt to the BMPCC with a [Panasonic MA-1 adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ISKNKK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001ISKNKK&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (as pictured [here] (https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PPks3tbjifY/UpdE8YROY5I/AAAAAAAAIQc/mX6lKHFiEyU/w724-h543-no/P1060597.JPG)) - but even at 11mm, it gives me a 33mm equivalent field of view. That's pretty tight indoors.
Hope this is helpful!
Bill
For small handheld cameras like these, a loupe and a pistol grip work great. 3 points of contact making the image stable, still discrete and looks like an old school Bolex. I use something like this with my a5300. Here is what it looks like.
Loupe:
http://www.amazon.com/2-8x-3-0-Viewfinder-Magnifier-Extender/dp/B009X6H8ZW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_421_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=316fNC-iueL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1HHNN9NVZK1PH91G2KSE
Pistol Grip:
http://www.amazon.com/Photography-Cinema-pistol-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0073Z49AM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459351357&sr=8-1&keywords=PNC+PISTOL
If the interference is light around the back of the camera, not the light coming through the viewfinder, you might add an eyecup to the viewfinder. It improves the seal around your eye. There are a great many by various manufacturers -- see this example -- but do adequate research to make sure what you buy fits your camera, or purchase in a physical camera store. Almost any eyecup will interfere with a swinging viewscreen, but the eyecup is easy enough to apply or remove as you need it or
need to swing the viewscreen.
Own a LCDVF, love it and it's a great value for < 1/2 the price. I think I paid $120 shipped from Amazon.
This one looks even nicer
I personally do not. I have a viewfinder, similar to but not as nice as this one on a 15mm rod system that fits comfortably against my eye. It's far from a perfect solution, but given the functionality and savings I can live with the imperfection.
Keep in mind too that these are brand new. One word. Warranty.
For testing MF focus, I've found those DSLR video loupes to just be the shit. I use matte acetate (thicker than scotch tape though) - but I have a 575 HMI par, so that's not really an issue (that thing's like 2500 watts of tungsten!) this is the loupe I have, but my living is mostly corporate video - you can get one for pretty cheap these days.
I do photography, been doing it for about a year and a half but still don't feel comfortable enough to try and go the next step (buying a somewhat more serious equipment and start charging for photoshoots), my photos are not yet at an acceptable level!
Link to a public facebook album of photos I took while studying abroad in south america (has one or two NSFW photos of bodypainting)
Link to items:
Wireless remote shutter So i can take some nice selfies (not really!)
Eye cup because I lost mine while hiking in chile
Some extra protection never hurt anybody
Basically everything else I'd want camera related is above 150 dollars each :P so I chose inexpensive accesories to show things related to my hobby/passion :)
EDIT : An album with some select pictures
Ceari makes a third party version of this mod, that fits nicely as well, for $9.
Adorama has better prices than amazon apparently, I just wanted to link the parts.
Favorite thing ever was when I went to Orlando for my birthday, mine is on July 20^th, we went to Sea World and I got a purple pearl bracelet! Eye cover for my camera
I hope you had fun at Laser tag, I've never done that!
There's also options for an add-on EVF for most cameras, if you want an expensive solution.
Or non-electronic addon viewfinders along the lines of this thing.
TARION TR-V1 LCD Viewfinder Camera View Finder Display 2.5X Magnification Universal for 3.0" 3.2" Screen DSLR Cameras Canon Nikon https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00PGW727G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GFNjDbHGEJTVP
Maybe look around and see if one is the right size for your camera, and it'll have the added benefit of also preventing glare in bright sunlight for any day shoots you might have.
It's totally perfect! Here's a $9 one I have, works great.
link
So I am not sure what you necessarily mean by the issues with the viewfinder, but I wear glasses and so shoot with an aftermarket viewfinder attachment. I don't usually take more then a burst of 5 or so photos at once before reviewing them though.
So in pict 1 I just had a lamp with the shade off of it in a room with it as the only light source. I then had my subject placed beside it only lighting up one side of her face. This is heavily prococessed though in terms of amping up the whites/highlights and bringing down the blacks/shadows. Shot this with the Nikkor 35mm F/1.8. Not necessarily an original photo in terms of execution and idea but I was inspired by the cover art off Adele's single "Hello".
The 2nd photo was shot with a Nikkor 85mm F/1.8.
Also, just an FYI but you can see all the technical specs of the shots on Flickr below each photo.
I've lost three eyepieces for my D750 while either putting it back in its bag or on hiking around.
What I replaced it with is this Hoodman replacement eyepiece that clips into place and is much more secure (cant just slide off).
I did have to grind down the rubber outer ring as it was fairly large (designed for glasses) but after switching it is definitely much more secure.
https://www.amazon.ca/Hoodman-H-EyeN22S-HoodEYE-Nikon-Square/dp/B001UGNKQE
The eyepiece should be replaceable with something like a 3rd party eye cup which might help. You'll just need to get one that's compatible with the DSLR that she uses.
In case you want to save $30
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016F01M0K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Here's the gear list:
Alzo DSLR Cage : http://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Handle-Extenders-Multifunctional-Bracket/dp/B005IY3MBC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396632671&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=alzo+rig
Tascam DR-40 : http://www.amazon.com/DR-40-4-Track-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B005NACC6M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396632990&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=tascam+dr-40
Sony UWP-V6 : http://www.amazon.com/Sony-UWPV6-Microphone-Transmitter-Operating/dp/B001EYPZAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396633014&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sony+uwp+lav
Azden SGM-2X : http://www.amazon.com/AZDEN-SGM-2X-Professional-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B000CMU0S8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396633044&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=azden+sgm-2x
Kamerar QV-1 : http://www.amazon.com/AUTHENTIC-KAMERAR-VIEWFINDER-FINDER-CANON/dp/B00EA71PVM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396633077&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=kamerar+qv-1
Opteka CXS-25 : http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-CXS-25-Universal-Aluminum-Camera/dp/B00A4EAJAI/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396633138&amp;sr=8-24&amp;keywords=opteka
Manfrotto QR : http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-577-Connect-Adapter-Mounting/dp/B00009XV3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396633187&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=manfrotto+QR
Plus rods from somewhere on Amazon.
I used one of these folding sunhoods: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FW69CWY/, it helped a little, maybe not as much as an enclosed loupe. But then, you're not gonna have many opportunities to get your eyeball right on the camera while you're using the stabilizer.
I have a Lilliput. I used it for a while but it sits in a box now. It serves me no purpose because though it is much larger, the resolution is significantly lower than my camera screens. It offers zero improvement to my ability to focus, and in fact it is often detrimental. Of far more practicality is one of these if you're not going to spring for a full HD monitor.
The prism housings on (many) bodies with pop-up flashes aren't big enough to support the same kind of porthole-style viewfinder they put on bodies that don't have them.
I bought one of these for my D750 to see if it would at least get me halfway there, because I don't like the clip-on cover they supply with the camera. It did, but the rubber part was forever getting brushed against things and slipping off the plastic mount. I left it off and found that the plastic part was a decent-enough substitute. I may put a coat of Plasti-Dip on the rear (eye-facing) edge to make it a bit softer.
I bought this
and it isn't going to work.
Here it is. Has anyone tried one of these?: http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-2-8x-Screen-Viewfinder-Extender/dp/B0084LFED0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408030569&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Neewer%C2%AE+2.8x
Spent about 30 minutes trying to figure out that eyepiece setup. Kinda makes me wanna buy an LCD BacPac now!