Reddit mentions: The best camera & camcorder remote controls

Here’s a guide I give to people not necessarily about posting, but about taking photos. It does however include details on anonymity and such:
——————————
Photo Tips for Mobile Phones

• Ensure good lighting - if you don't have other gear and a phone is all you have, keep the lights up in the room and use natural light where possible. This will prevent photos from being underexposed and/or grainy and gritty. You can even strategically use some lamps or smaller lights closer to your body while keeping the room lights down.
  
• Use the phone's rear camera at all times. Though it may seem convenient to use the front facing camera so you can see the shot you're taking, it's not as high quality a camera as the rear camera.
  
• Crop photos, don't zoom to take them. Digital zooming on a mobile phone degrades the photo quality. You're better off cropping a photo you've taken that wasn't zoomed when you took it.
  
• Use a tripod of some kind. The Gorrilapod is a great option since it can stand freely on its own or be wrapped around something (headboard, chair beside bed or couch, ceiling fan for a birds-eye view, etc). JOBY GripTight GorillaPod Stand - Flexible Universal Smartphone Stand for Small Smartphones including iPhone 6, iPhone 7 and iPhone 8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GHYMB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1J8Xzb16X8FCC
  
• Use a remote control to take photos, like this: CamKix Wireless Camera Shutter Remote Control for Smartphones – Create Amazing Photos and Selfies (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113W5ZOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZK8Xzb1N6CVZD This allows you to position the camera, and be at a distance from it, and freely press the shutter release button on the remote to take photos. In conjunction with a 3 or 10 second timer, this gives you plenty of time to trigger the photo, conceal the remote, and pose for your photo.
  
• Use focus lock when you're going to be at a distance from the camera. A great way to do this is to place an object on a bed (or wherever you are taking photos), such as a pillow, that will be approximately where your body will be. Think of the pillow as a torso - will you be focusing primarily on your lower torso (ex: below belly button) or upper torso (ex: chest)? Focus lock on those approximate areas, or somewhere in between to ensure consistent focusing. Lock focus on this, then get in position and fire away with the remote.
  
• When taking fully nude photos, remove underwear about 45 minutes to an hour before you take photos. This helps prevent panty lines, and bra strap lines from being visible on your skin.
  
• Photo Editing Apps: Don't overuse them, but sometimes it's fun to explore editing and consider making black and white photos out of color photos. VSCO Cam is one of the leading apps out there, with film simulation presets to quickly set a certain mood and tone for photos.
  
  Photo Inspiration
  
• Subtlety tends to keep people wanting more. People enjoy what they can imagine; it's a great build up to full reveals or more detailed / graphic photos. Photo albums that run from clothed to unclothed to posing to touching always excite people.
  
• Explore sites with great nude photography, like www.kindgirls.com, for example, for inspiration on poses, outfits, etc. It's fun to find a photo gallery you like and take a shot at emulating each of the photos.
  
  Safety and Privacy
  
• Always be cautious and careful of what you post that reveals personally identifiable details, face photos, etc. Some of the bigger subs warn about "what goes on the Internet stays on the Internet." Many people don't foresee the risk in revealing themselves to a degree that they can be identified.
  
• If you’re worried about being discovered and identified in real life, NEVER EVER EVER post your face or any identifiable physical characteristics. This includes objects in your residence, blankets people might recognize, art, furniture, etc. Try to keep that stuff as generic as possible. I’d even go as far as having a blanket and pillow you use in photos that you don’t use in anything else.
  
• Learn how to remove EXIF data from photos so there are no identifying details, such as location, lingering in the photos. On the iPhone, I suggest the app called “Investigator” to clear EXIF data.

I wrote this guide for better nude and erotic mobile photography a couple years ago, and even though you’re talking about a DSLR camera, many of the tips are more than applicable. Enjoy, and have fun!

—-

Photo Tips for Mobile Phones

• Ensure good lighting - if you don't have other gear and a phone is all you have, keep the lights up in the room and use natural light where possible. This will prevent photos from being underexposed and/or grainy and gritty. You can even strategically use some lamps or smaller lights closer to your body while keeping the room lights down.
  
• Use the phone's rear camera at all times. Though it may seem convenient to use the front facing camera so you can see the shot you're taking, it's not as high quality a camera as the rear camera.
  
• Crop photos, don't zoom to take them. Digital zooming on a mobile phone degrades the photo quality. You're better off cropping a photo you've taken that wasn't zoomed when you took it.
  
• Use a tripod of some kind. The Gorrilapod is a great option since it can stand freely on its own or be wrapped around something (headboard, chair beside bed or couch, ceiling fan for a birds-eye view, etc). JOBY GripTight GorillaPod Stand - Flexible Universal Smartphone Stand for Small Smartphones including iPhone 6, iPhone 7 and iPhone 8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GHYMB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1J8Xzb16X8FCC
  
• Use a remote control to take photos, like this: CamKix Wireless Camera Shutter Remote Control for Smartphones – Create Amazing Photos and Selfies (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113W5ZOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZK8Xzb1N6CVZD This allows you to position the camera, and be at a distance from it, and freely press the shutter release button on the remote to take photos. In conjunction with a 3 or 10 second timer, this gives you plenty of time to trigger the photo, conceal the remote, and pose for your photo.
  
• Use focus lock when you're going to be at a distance from the camera. A great way to do this is to place an object on a bed (or wherever you are taking photos), such as a pillow, that will be approximately where your body will be. Think of the pillow as a torso - will you be focusing primarily on your lower torso (ex: below belly button) or upper torso (ex: chest)? Focus lock on those approximate areas, or somewhere in between to ensure consistent focusing. Lock focus on this, then get in position and fire away with the remote.
  
• When taking fully nude photos, remove underwear about 45 minutes to an hour before you take photos. This helps prevent panty lines, and bra strap lines from being visible on your skin.
  
• Photo Editing Apps: Don't overuse them, but sometimes it's fun to explore editing and consider making black and white photos out of color photos. VSCO Cam is one of the leading apps out there, with film simulation presets to quickly set a certain mood and tone for photos.
  
  Photo Inspiration
  
• Subtlety tends to keep people wanting more. People enjoy what they can imagine; it's a great build up to full reveals or more detailed / graphic photos. Photo albums that run from clothed to unclothed to posing to touching always excite people.
  
• Explore sites with great nude photography, like www.kindgirls.com, for example, for inspiration on poses, outfits, etc. It's fun to find a photo gallery you like and take a shot at emulating each of the photos.
  
  Safety
  
• Always be cautious and careful of what you post that reveals personally identifiable details, face photos, etc. Some of the bigger subs warn about "what goes on the Internet stays on the Internet." Many people don't foresee the risk in revealing themselves to a degree that they can be identified.
  
• Learn how to remove EXIF data from photos so there are no identifying details, such as location, lingering in the photos. On the iPhone, I suggest the app called “Investigator” to clear EXIF data.

/u/s4gn - if you'll be using the camera primarily for video, I would avoid Canon DSLRs.

Here is why:

• Canon DSLRs and mirrorless cameras below $3000 are limited to 1920x1080p resolution - other manufacturers sell cameras in this price class capable of recording at 3840x2160p "4K" resolution ([here] (https://youtu.be/J4FDn8YX4Ao) is why you want a camera that can record at 4K. And [here] (https://youtu.be/kIf9h2Gkm_U) is why material originated at 4K looks better on a 1080p monitor than material shot at 1080p)
  
  
• even Canon's "quiet" STM lenses have noisy autofocus motors, as seen in [this touch screen AF test] (https://youtu.be/CZ-V3KhH_GI) I shot with the T4i and the 40mm STM
  
  
• Canon DSLR viewfinders are blocked by the mirror in video mode (mirrorless cameras use electronic viewfinders (EVFs) that are usable in all modes - EVFs also display important audio information and histograms you don't get from a DSLR optical viewfinder)
  
  
• the 80D needs a [$149 external motor] (https://www.amazon.com/Canon-Power-Adapter-PZ-E1-Black/dp/B01BUYJX5W//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) for power zoom, while the 7D Mark II has no affordable power zoom option at all
  
  
• Canon DSLRs in this price class are all limited to 30 minutes of continuous recording before they shut down and have to be restarted - this can be a challenge if you want to use your camera to record speeches, sermons, plays or other long events.
  
  The 80D and 7D Mark II are both great still cameras, but there are much better cameras for video - for less money.
  
  For less than the price of a [$1499 Canon 7D Mark II body] (https://www.amazon.com/Canon-Mark-Digital-Camera-Body/dp/B00NEWZDRG//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), for example, you can get a [$797.99 4K Panasonic G7 with a 14-42mm kit lens, a free Rode VideoMicro external mic] (https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Mirrorless-Digital-Microphone-Accessory/dp/B01CF29K9M//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) plus a [$589 Aputure DEC Lensregain speed booster/focal reducer with wireless follow focus for Canon glass] (https://www.amazon.com/LensRegain-Reducing-Telecompressor-wireless-controller/dp/B01EHRQ4NI//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).
  
  The G7 is a much better camera for video, with:
  
  
• 3840x2160p 4K resolution
  
  
• an EVF that actually works while you're recording video
  
  
• compatibility with inexpensive Panasonic power zoom lenses with quiet autofocus motors
  
  
• hours of continuous recording (at 1080p).
  
  [Here] (https://youtu.be/exlii8bSS5A) is a side-by-side between the G7 and the 70D (which has the pretty much the same image quality as the 80D).
  
  Please note the 70D's softness, even at 1080p.
  
  And here is the more general image quality the G7 can produce (please watch at 2160p and your monitor's highest resolution):
  
  Narrative
  
  
• [Your Own Size - (Short Film) Panasonic G7 with Kit Lens by Spectrum The Originator] (https://youtu.be/_umc7arlep0) (2160p)
  
  
• [Unfigured (2016) short movie - filmed with Panasonic G7 by AgnosLibertine] (https://youtu.be/tfTqjeVn-tU) (2160p)
  
  
• [LUMIX DMC-G7 Sample Video in 4K by Colin Witherill] (https://youtu.be/fZllpp_y8Is) (2160p)
  
  Automotive
  
  
• [Ferrari 360 modena F131 by sumizooN] (https://vimeo.com/167509280) (4K)
  
  Travel/Nature
  
  
• [Weekend by Albert Fast] (https://vimeo.com/166234439) (4K)
  
  
• [Away From The City ~ Panasonic G7 [4K] 42.5mm F1.7] (http://vimeo.com/132028570)
  
  
• [Panasonic Lumix G7 / G70 Launch - 4K - 4KPhoto Modes] (http://vimeo.com/128536456) (shot in photo/video mode - each frame is an 8MP still photo) (2160p)
  
  Documentary
  
  
• [Fotograf Anna Ejemo] (https://youtu.be/N5jQhqm-26I) (2160p)
  
  
• [Indianapolis 500 in 4K] (https://youtu.be/q4OPPUH5FsE) (2160p)
  
  Timelapse
  
  
• [Voigtlander Nokton 10.5mm F0.95 Lens - Examples on a Panasonic G7 [4K]] (https://youtu.be/zLIc0n9K8Pk)
  
  It's a pretty good still camera too: https://www.flickr.com/groups/panasonic-lumix-g7/pool/
  
  In my view, the G7 is the best still/video starter camera you can buy below $1000.
  
  Hope this is helpful and best of luck choosing the camera that best meets your needs.
  

Some of the random things I've found in my ventures have been this Hipster Bamboo Bluetooth Speaker - great for music lovers, hipster people with vintage things in their house or really anyone. Also Loaded Questions is by far one of the greatest games we added to our collection. This traveling silverware set complete with metal straw for your eco friendly pals who don't want to use plastic out in public. Really lovely and luxurious soap that you can customize yourself!! Taco holders because, why not? Solid oven mitts and pads for the cook/baker on your list.A wireless/bluetooth cellphone selfie thingamob that helps you take pictures on vacations without a giant selfie stick! This awesome starry night, Mario art that is begging to be gifted to the gamer on your list. This gardening/cocktail kit for the cocktail lovers that just need a small patio or porch to grow some small herbs.A cellphone holder that literally comes in handy all the time. This awesome variety of hot chocolate (kcup) for the sweet tooth lovers. This incredible stamped line that has a ton of super adorable kitchenware, my favorite is the coffee spoon rest- 'Instant Human Just add Coffee.' These beautifully hand painted wine glasses!

​

The thing with speeding up video in Premiere is that you are shooting 1/30th of a second per video frame. With a timer/intervelometer on a DSLR you can shoot much longer exposures, picking up faint objects, and then turn them into a movie using Photoshop (use the Animation window in CS5, open an image sequence, save as avi).

I have a Canon T3i too and picked up this generic timer for doing timelapse and exposures longer than 30 seconds. I think the Canon brand timer costs about $125, so the knockoff is a great bargain and works just fine.

There is also the Magic Lantern firmware you can install on your camera that gives you time lapse and other functions. I haven't tried this yet but it sounds like it works well.

I'm not sure if you've shot stars before but it took me a couple of nights out to figure out how to focus. The kit lens on the Canon T3i was not fast enough for me to see the stars in the LCD viewfinder, but I picked up a Canon 50mm/1.8 lens and with that I could see stars in the liveview mode. Set the ISO to max, shutter to BULB, open the lens all the way and point at a bright star in order to focus. Then adjust the ISO down to 800 or so to reduce noise on long exposures. Manual focus and manual exposure. Be sure the camera is in BULB mode if using the timer.

With a 50mm lens you will see a bit of trails on a 30 second exposure, so you might want to see what it looks like with 10 or 15 sec exposures to avoid star trails. I usually experiment with the exposure a bit before starting a long time lapse sequence to check the noise. Shooting shorter duration exposures means getting more pics per hour, and this makes the resulting animation longer/slower when played back at 30fps.

I agree with what was said earlier about having something on the horizon to make the shot more interesting, but with the 50mm lens on a crop sensor camera it's a bit like a small telephoto. Figure out where the meteors are appearing and point at that. There might be a tradeoff between getting something interesting as a point of reference and getting the meteors in the shot. If you can find a lone tree or something that would be good.

This video is helpful and IIRC it's where I picked up the 600 rule for star trails vs. focal length.

edit: This moon phase calendar is handy. I just checked with Sky Safari (planetarium software) and I see that moon rise is at about 1am (DST) on Friday in Albuquerque NM, so plan accordingly. Once the moon rises it will add light pollution and make the stars and meteors harder to see, just FYI. Tho a moonstrike, when the moon comes up and shines on the landscape, can be an interesting moment in a timelapse video. That's a term I picked up from watching Tom Lowe's Timescapes videos. The video he has for sale has some good behind-the-scenes and commentary track too. His work has been an inspiration.

I don't know why everyone puts cleaning gear in such high priority, my gear is still perfectly clean after 3 years of use. A good bag will hold loads of dust away from your gear.
Together with my first Dsrl (I'm a Canon user but I got to work with Nikon cameras quite often) I got the essential stuff:

• Adobe Lightroom - heads up the best software to edit and store your RAWs in my opinion
  
• Tripod - my first tripod was quite cheap because I was a on a low budget, but it did it's job till I moved to Manfrotto
  
• Remote shutter release - Should do it's job, if you want to shoot timelapse you'll have to buy an intervalometer remote
  
• SD cards - I suggest to always go with class 10 cards if you mainly shoot RAW and videos (high data rates)
  
  
  After all that stuff I got my first prime lens. The 50mm f/1.8 (Canon).
  
  The good old so called nifty fifty helped me to learn so much about composition and framing because you have to think about how to frame your subject rather than to just use zoom etc. It also has such a great sharpness and beautiful bokeh. It's a really great lens for portraits! Of course this also applies to the Nikon 50mm.
  
  The Nikon equivalent to Canons 50mm f/1.8 lens runs around $190 which will give you great optical performance, a lens pouch, plus if you ever feel like upgrading from your D3200 the flexibility of being able to use this lens with all of Nikon's Dsrl (internal autofocus motor).

I really don't find anything interesting about this photo unfortunately. I encourage you to try again because you have an interest in photography - here are my recommendations:

• If you're going to take a self-portrait, use a good focal length (50mm-200mm is good for a tight crop) lens, place the camera on a tripod, and either use a remote shutter to get the focus sharp (yours is very blurry which seems like you simply held the camera facing you and pressed the shutter). Some cameras like the Canon 70d or 6dmii have a wifi feature where you can download something like the Canon Camera Connect and preview/take the photo from your smartphone. Don't hold the camera backward like you're taking a smartphone selfie if you want proper composition and focus.
  
• Choose an expression, whether you want it to be serious, happy, sexy, moody, etc., that will be of some visual interest in your portraits. Right now your expression to me is just confused or apathetic, and provides no emotion at all. There are tutorials online such as "how to pose" or "how to take better portraits" that can help with this. Even this stock photo shows that you don't have to necessarily be smiling, but just do something to create visual interest.
  
• Find an interesting background for your portrait, or use a shallow depth of field to blur out uninteresting/noisy backgrounds.
  
  Working on these fundamentals should yield better results next time. Good luck.
  
  

Trying to build a simple, large overhead rig for work for under $300 to do creative, top-down shots. We have a Canon EOS 7D and a 28-135mm lens that we will probably replace because it has an issue with the zoom sliding down at anything more than a 30 degree tilt.

I think I've come up with a pretty bare bones rig that will work. But since I usually just shoot by hand or tripod and don't have much experience with studio equipment, I was hoping someone could check to make sure this would work.

• Ravelli ABSL Backdrop Stand Kit (13' x 15')
  
• Manfrotto 035RL Super Clamp
  
• Manfrotto 494RC2 Ball Head w/ Quick Release
  
• AmazonBasics Wireless Remote
  
  Was hoping if someone could tell me if this seems okay. Could anyone recommend an affordable lens that would be good for shooting from about 8' - 10'? Furthermore, is there a somewhat inexpensive method for routing shots to a Macbook for review while shooting?
  
  EDIT: It looks like the best way to route shots is a 15' USB cable and to route into a software, so that should be pretty straightforward.

Night photography is my favorite genre, especially light painting and city scenes. I highly recommend investing in a remote shutter release, it makes taking those tedious shots much easier because you can guarantee that there's no camera shake. For the best quality shots, use the lowest ISO you can, and play around with the long exposure noise reduction settings on your camera. I usually leave mine off and do the noise reduction in post processing. This saves time while shooting as well, as it takes less time for the camera to save the image.

You have a smokin' car, you want to show off the lines, right? The nice thing about low-light photography is that you can really take the time to figure out your shot and compose it before you shoot. I think it would be cool to find some nice street lighting and play around with the composition to highlight the features of the car. Try to find something that won't screw up the white balance with the headlights on. Don't be afraid to get low, shoot from the level of the driver's head or lower.
Once you have it set up, you have the opportunity to take multiple shots, you can easily jump to HDR if you want.

Also, I found a pretty great article about just what you're maybe trying to do.

Ah, I got the model wrong then - it looks like you have a great camera for astrophotography, but by far the most important thing is a good equatorial mount that tracks the stars. Preferably one that's capable of autoguiding.

If you get an intervalometer, you can program it to hold the shutter open for as long as you like, as many times as you like. It's great for time-lapse work, as well.

Cool, that was fortunate. Crank that ISO up and have some fun out there. :)

Try taking a couple of exposures of just a random field of stars like you did, and cramming them into deep sky stacker to get some experience with it. You can just skip calibration frames and just get a cool result without them, then gradually add in calibration frames once you're comfortable with the process.

One cheap addition I'd recommend to your kit if you don't already have one is something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Polaroid-PLRTC18-Replacement-Shutter-Release/dp/B008FBMSWY for $20 you can easily take multiple exposures without bumping things around in the dark. (I think that one works on the 70D, but make sure.)

This will be useful even without a motorized mount, the stars will drift out of frame over time, but you can still stack quite a few shots and stack them, you'll just have to crop a little off your final image. Good luck!

What's on your mind that's confusing so far?

• There's a lot to learn, even with a kit lens, so even a basic DSLR can get you up and running because it generally has the biggest sensor per dollar for an advanced camera that well give you the control you need to capture the challenge of astro work. Any recent camera is fine for that price range, even a bare bones beginner body. A lens upgrade will do more to collect light than a body upgrade will, at least around this budget.
  
  
• Check http://lonelyspeck.com for great tips and an awesome astro lens comparison. Usually something with a wide field of view and a wide aperture will be best to collect light, but those are upgrades you can dig into down the road
  
  
• Leave around $100 for a decent tripod if you can, with something at the $20-30 range as an absolute baseline
  
  
• Also try to leave another $20-30 for a wired or wireless (respectively) cable release/intervalometer from Amazon. A 2-10 second timer can full in for this, but it's a really helpful upgrade
  
  
• I'd suggest a Canon T6 over a Nikon D3400/3500 because Nikon got rid of the cable release port for some reason. I've been shooting an "older" T5 for a number of years and a cable release is critical for the stuff I like to shoot (astro, night long exposures, rockets, etc.).
  
  
• Check out the good folks over at r/astrophotography. They're really helpful and they post all of the gear and processing techniques that went into each shot, so if you have something in mind, search that sub for a camera/lens/object you've trying to shoot for helpful info
  
  
• Check the FAQ above for tips on buying used
  
  
• It just jumped up $50 from last week, but B&H has a $450 Canon T6 with two lenses. It's worth considering to compare other kits off of.

I love shooting long exposure. I am a bit new at photography but I'll throw in my 2 cents. I use a Nikon D5500 so there are probably a few differences that you'll have to consider.

First of all as mentioned by others you need to reduce wobble in your tripod. Some tripods have hooks on the bottom so you can add some weight to help with steadying. I use a cheap tripod and haven't really had much of an issue with wobble especially if I keep it low to the ground.

Next invest in a shutter remote This was hands down the best decision I made for taking long exposures. It keeps you from having to press the shutter button which causes shake.

And as ReVerthex mentioned the D5200 doesn't have a mirror lockup feature which isn't 100% necessary but it does help. I found that this helps much more in macro photography because having the camera still is super crucial when your doing macro shots. Long exposures not so much.

First off, that hill isn't that fast and there are no corners you need to slow down for. Second, I've done a lot of skating with Cal and Matt and have the utmost confidence in their skills. Third, I put the camera on one of these things to get a better grip and used one of these to automatically take a photo every second; so I was just pointing it and hoping for the best. Finally--this is key--I have pretty good insurance on my camera gear.

Thank you! I'd say go with the GoPro HERO 4 Silver or Black, if you need something light-weight that will hold up in weather. The image you can get with the newer models is way better than what mine can do.

Between those two, the Silver has a LCD built-in, but both offer Wi-Fi/Bluetooth so you can use the GoPro app on your smartphone as display, without disturbing the camera or possibly wasting more battery. Fun tip about power, regular Apple iPhone chargers (and probably others) meet the power requirement (5V - 1A) to charge and power a GoPro. So you can keep it plugged in with a USB to Mini-USB cable while you shoot. If you want to use a tripod or mount while plugged in, however, you'll have to pick up a housing that has open sides for this, since the standard housing is closed. Or use a bit of gaffers tape. Otherwise, the biggest difference between the Silver and Black, beside price, is Video -- you get more frame rate options with the 2.7K and 4K resolutions on the Black.

If you have a clean, controlled environment, and don't mind a bit more cost and technical set up, you can use a DSLR. The 7D MKII has a built-in intervalometer so, without any attachments, you can shoot time lapse out of the box. If you've already got a DSLR, there are a few 3rd-party intervalometer remotes on Amazon, with mixed reviews. I want to experiment with these next, so I can't vouch for any. But if your company is paying, they might not mind paying the higher price for the name brand version you require. Here are a few videos I saved while researching.

Beware: YouTube personalties ahead.

Time Lapse Dolly Move
Time Lapse Controller
Night Time Lapse - a bit annoying and expensive equipment, but detailed list of links in the description.

All said and done, experiment a bunch and use plenty of light! Hope that helps!

> Computer: HP Envy (i5, 12gb RAM)

How are you planning to use the computer? BackyardEOS?

> is the rest of my set up okay?

BackyardEOS would replace the need for a shutter release/ intervalometer. If not using it (or another tethered solution), I would suggest getting an intervalometer. Much more convenient then using the timer on camera, and you don't want to actually be pressing the shutter button on-camera to avoid shake.

You don't mention a tripod, but a tripod is pretty much necessary for any kind of astrophotography.

As for advice, I would suggest shooting the milky way core with interesting foreground elements (rock formations, etc.). Shoot as wide (28mm) and open (lowest f number = widest aperture) as your lens allows. Try the following settings in manual mode: ISO 1600, 10 seconds exposure.
Manually focus on a bright star with liveview magnified x10. The goal is to make the star as small as possible. If you have never focused at night before, practice before your trip, and get a sense of where on the lens is truly "infinity".

Maybe too advanced for starting out, but worth learning: Take many shots of the same thing and try stacking them in DeepSkyStacker when you get home.

Hi, yes, AND this might be helpful to save time - this is what I do for that sort of thing:

1. Use video record on my iPhone or iPad (can also use Android's, etc.) There are microphone attachments that work with these devices, or can simply use the phone's own microphone.
   
2. Use this bluetooth clicker to remotely start and stop the recording (I grabbed mine off a selfie-stick my husband bought):
   
   https://www.amazon.com/CamKix-Wireless-Bluetooth-Shutter-Smartphones/dp/B00PJSIIES/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=camkix+wireless+bluetooth+camera+shutter+remote+control+clicker&pd_rd_i=B00PJSIIES&pd_rd_r=08ba814f-cf96-4b93-92f9-3aa6660e8904&pd_rd_w=cGZoH&pd_rd_wg=MccwE&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=YJGG4GQWQ23B8SJK8CH4&qid=1565534670&s=wireless
   
   
3. Use an app like VideoShop to edit the program on my iPhone or iPad . In Videoshop I can combine video clips, or cut out sections that didn't look good, etc. It's a nice little program.
   
   
4. Then I upload it privately to YouTube or the like (or simply save it to camera roll if I am using dropbox/etc).

For pictures, I'd suggest removing #2, 4 and 7. The tone and facial expression in them is very negative, even if you weren't meaning it that way. And they don't align with how upbeat your profile is. The remainder are good and show off what you look like, interesting hobbies, etc. If you want to add a few more photos, have a friend take some. Or invest in a cheap tripod from amazon that you can use with your phone and a bluetooth remote. It's much better than selfies or pictures where you're holding your phone in front of your face.

As for your profile, I'd change the first section. It really doesn't tell anything specific about you or hook the reader in to want to know more. It doesn't capture a good picture of who you are. Think: how would people describe you? What type of personality do you have? What are some things you value in life? How are you different than all the other women on OKC? What makes you yourself?

The second paragraph would be great under the 'You should message me if' section. When a list of wants is thrown in as the second thing someone reads, it can be a turn-off. Let that section be about you.

Another thing to look out for is how often you use words like 'love', 'great', 'passion', etc. I'm definitely guilty of this too. But when you overuse those words and everything is great, awesome, spectacular, it loses its effect. There are other ways to start your sentences and denote passion.

There are a lot of good one-liners that add some color, and I'd advise keeping them in, but overall I don't get a good sense of who you are. I get a sense of the things you are into, but not you.

Edit: Have you changed your search settings to look at other women's profiles from your same area and in your age range? That can give you a few ideas of ways to tweak yours and how they approach writing about themselves.

I've been doing astro for 1.5 years and i started on my GH5. You want something with an interval timer function, because you will definitely want to stack images at some point, even though you have a tracker. I use this. It's really great for the price, and it's wireless. Trust me.

Edit: i would also encourage you to use the mechanical shutter as i believe you lose dynamic range with the electronic shutter. Why do you wnat to use the electronic shutter in the first place?

A good memory card always helps, e.g. this, that's big enough for approx. 1.1k shots at max quality on my d3300.

Also a remote shutter is useful if you have a tripod, or you just want to set the camera down and pose, the amazon basics model works great for me, here it is.

Those are two cheap essentials for me.

Thank you kindly! Still a little new to sharing, but I imagined that if I like to look at them, others might enjoy them too.

I use a pro set up since photography is a big part of my job, but you can get little bluetooth phone triggers on the mega cheap - removing the pain of having to hold/point/focus your phone does wonders for your ability to create more artistic shots.

If there's a will, there's a way...thanks again!

I had a similar question so I'm glad OP asked. When you say a remote, what kind of remote? I picked up the $8 Amazon Basics remote but I have a good feeling that's not what you mean. Or have I just not figured out how to super long exposure with it yet?

Sweet! Enjoy!

This is the intervalometer I use, but they make similar ones for pretty much every make and model:

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Intervalometer-Time-lapse-Photography-Multi-Terminal/dp/B00NSE1F6I

With one of those and a tripod, it opens up a lot of creative options . I don't really see the point in buying a fancy wireless/high precision one, as filling up an SD card with a bunch of photos really isn't an issue and you don't need uber precision unless you're doing very complicated timelapses.

Mine was $15 shipped from amazon.



Ordered this one and ended up getting a Canon one. Mine is from amazon.ca so if you're in the states you could probably find one much cheaper.

Time lapses are done with a little gizmo called an intervelometer. Also ordered mine off amazon.

Pretty easy, you set up your camera settings, plug this bad boy into the side of your camera, set the timer and your camera will keep taking consecutive photos until you stop it based on your settings (or until the battery runs out).

You can then compile the photos in a program like Adobe Lightroom or something similar, I'm sure there may even be a free option out there.

You should check if it has a time delay feature. If so you can set it, tell it to take say 10 pictures and then see the results. On my Nikon, I usually use time+8 sec to review. This is IMO, the best way to do shots, as it introduces minimal wiggle into it, even compared to a timer, and makes better use of time. (Ie, you can set it at 30 sec, if you don't want to see the image, though I find that the 38 sec, so you can see if something isn't going right is good.)

An IR shutter release is also very good. I actually have one on my phone (LG V20, they were popular on Android phones for a while, when I got this one, it was one of few that had it)

Here's one example, not sure if it'll work with your camera: https://smile.amazon.com/Canon-RC-6-Wireless-Controller-Digital/dp/B0037NX6JY

Here's another for $9: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00BCEJ0E0/

(Heh, for once the Nikon version ($6) isn't more expensive than something for a Canon!)

I have a wired release, but I think the IR if your camera supports it, is better, because then you don't have the cable at all transmitting vibrations.

I actually took a similar shot, testing out a tracking motor on my 127EQ last night, while one of my main rigs was automatically running through my target list. (Ekos and Kstars + OnStep is a wonderful combination. Aside from an inadvertent design issue, a cable got caught on the focuser, which pulled it loose, I only touched it to change filters, and focus it.) It looked very similar to yours, aside from some streaking due to apparently being wrong on timing, but such is life, and that can be fixed.

Thanks, /u/mike808hawaii - [less than $30] (http://amzn.to/1uthrJ9) is a lot better than [$40 for the same item] (http://amzn.to/1s3VgJN). You just saved everyone ten bucks!

Appreciate it.

Bill

The amazon-brand remote shutter release seems to be just as good as the nikon-brand and is quite cheap. Same one I use

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Control-Digital-Cameras/dp/B003L1ZYZ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449114246&sr=8-1&keywords=nikon+shutter



If that is too cheap and you want something to add to the christmas gift, a gorilla-tripod would probably pair well.

http://www.amazon.com/JOBY-Gorillapod-Tripod-Bundle-Cameras/dp/B002FGTWOC/ref=pd_sim_421_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=41CJlE1xloL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0RDV13SH8ZJ6QEVMMTS6

Edit: if for some reason she feels the need for a really accurate wireless shutter release, there are also radio triggers. However I would say for the vast majority of people this is unnecessary and the basic infrared remotes are a better choice.

Yup, you just crank your shutter speed down until it says BULB I believe. I'm more of a Nikon shooter but I have lots experience with Canon, I just can't remember specifics.

Any remote like this should let you lock the shutter open. You'll have to find the right one for your camera though. If you don't get the remote you will have to hold the shutter down manually, which leads to tired finger and camera shake.

If you are going to spend money on a remote you should probably get the intervalometer (There are cheaper knock-off versions that work just as well) because if you are shooting stars you will probably end up getting into timelapses. Though be aware this WILL kill your shutter, the higher pro level cameras have better shutters that will last much longer than the consumer models. I recommend joining canon's professional services prior to this so that when your shutter does kick it you can get it repaired for much cheaper than it would cost you regularly.


>Some extra tips

• Invest in a GOOD tripod. We are talking Manfrotto or Gitzo or something along those lines.
  
  
• Look into your camera's mirror lock up feature.
  

I do photography, been doing it for about a year and a half but still don't feel comfortable enough to try and go the next step (buying a somewhat more serious equipment and start charging for photoshoots), my photos are not yet at an acceptable level!

Link to a public facebook album of photos I took while studying abroad in south america (has one or two NSFW photos of bodypainting)

Link to items:

Wireless remote shutter So i can take some nice selfies (not really!)

Eye cup because I lost mine while hiking in chile

Some extra protection never hurt anybody

Basically everything else I'd want camera related is above 150 dollars each :P so I chose inexpensive accesories to show things related to my hobby/passion :)

EDIT : An album with some select pictures

First, let me ask: What is your budget and what do you plan to capture?

---

As for the camera triggering, for less than $10, if your cameras are compatible, I would suggest using an infrared remote to trigger the cameras. Here's an example for Nikon cameras: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Control-Digital-Cameras/dp/B003L1ZYZ6
This way there's no risk in damaging the cameras by opening them and modifying them. If you used externally mounted mechanical solenoids to depress the triggers, there's an added risk of slightly shaking the cameras and introducing motion blur, so that's something else I would avoid. Different camera companies offer USB based triggering systems, but I don't know much about them. This might be a good way to keep your cameras charged and triggered with a single cable to each.


/u/iontrades and others have figured out how to pulse IR LEDs using Arduino microcontrollers, so that's another route if you plan on automating the capture process. There's nothing wrong with using the $10 Amazon remote, and I have one myself, but I see an Arduino setup in my future - hopefully an automated setup built by /u/iontrades

Another completely different option would be to use Raspberry Pi computers with each camera triggered on demand. While it would be a fun project, I'd avoid this method for my own projects because I'd rather invest in quality glass (optics) than multiple sets of uncalibrated $20 Raspberry Pi cameras. Again, how much precision are you need and how much are you willing to pay for?

---

For the camera mounts, I really like what they did with the flexible mounts on the original beastcam.
If you need to make an adjustment, you don't need any tools. If you don't want to spend that much money, you could consider drilling holes in a piece of plywood and attaching cameras with zipties. You could even attach casters for rolling your rig around the floor. There are thousands of different ways to do this.

Did you get it at best buy? cause i totally just got that same camera. Excited you posted this, cause i could just some pointers too.

edit: I also just got this remote, and it helps a lot!

It in fact is possible! I recently bought a super cheap Chinese tripod for my iPhone (around 10€) and it included a (again super cheap) Bluetooth remote. And it's working! And of course there are the wireless selfie sticks which use Bluetooth as well...

EDIT: Found the remote on Amazon

Well then. Not quite as cheap, but not too bad. I've found it to be a pretty cool addition to my photo gear. EDIT: Not this specific model, but a remote in general.

I can personally recommend the Pixel remote intervalometer. Its pretty much straight from china but it's fantastic for the price.

Yeah go with the Sony a6000. Here's a suggestion though. Get yourself an intervalometer. Set the camera on a your tripod for a while with the intervalometer set to take a picture every few seconds and do a night time lapse. Then use editing software to make it into a video file. The shots will be a lot more interesting than filming the city lights. You'll also be able to dial in your exposure a little better than in video for some really clean shots since you can expose it longer.

I took a really close look at your two pictures. First things first, it's pretty obvious why it didn't work as intended.

• 1. The background image is brighter.
     
• 2. The background image is slightly off.
     
• 3. The focus of the background image is set on the wall, the focus of the main image is set on the chair/person.
     
     For the first point, was shutter speed set manually? If yes, did something change about the light sources? (What I noticed: Compare this to this, there are also more details visible on the chair to the left in one image). Steady light conditions are crucial to the sucess of this technique.
     
     For the second point, you wrote that you used a tripod. But that doesnt save you from the slight tilt you get when pressing down on the trigger. You might want to pick up one of these, they are also great for long exposure shots at night where the slightest movement of the camera gets you a blurry picture.
     
     For the third point, did you use manual focus? If yes, did you simply forget to keep a steady plane of focus (e.g. do the shot with the person first and then don't change the focus)?
     
     You should also keep in mind, that the way you had your subject sit on the chair creates dark areas which would be illuminated if it wasn't for the chair and seem slightly off once it's gone. For painting away the unwanted objects you also may want to not use a "fancy" brush as you did in your attempt, because that results in jagged borders when working close to the body.
     
     As a bonus, here is the picture as you wanted it (file size got a little large because it's a .png), I simply cut him out nicely and pasted him into the background shot. That's basically what you are doing too when you paint over everything but him. This works too, but has 2 drawbacks. His shadow isn't in the picture (but the shadow of the chair isn't either, so it's kind of an advantage actually). It also takes longer and isn't excactly as much of a photographic achievement as one of post-processing...
     
     If you take the above points into consideration and keep everthing else on manual too, I don't see why it shouldn't work.
     

Is it possible to convert a Bluetooth Low Energy device to a serial device? I have a Bluetooth application that communicates successfully with a Bluetooth Arduino button that we created that the button acts like a single tap in Android. We want to be able to do the same thing with a Bluetooth Low Energy based Camera shutter device. Essentially, I want my Bluetooth application to see the Camera Shutter (which seems to be recognized as a Bluetooth keyboard) in the same way it saw the Arduino based button. Is this possible? Here is the device we intend to use for reference (https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Wireless-Smartphone-Compatible-Products/dp/B017PMUVRC).

They sure do. I use this one
CamKix Wireless Bluetooth Camera Shutter Remote Control for Smartphones - Create Amazing Photos and Selfies - Compatible with all IOS and Android Devices with Bluetooth / Including Wrist Strap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJSIIES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wcH0AbTW52KC5

Hey that's perfect thanks!

I wonder if this would work the same. Or if operates on a different IR frequency or something

Thank you! Yeah, I just use a tripod and a remote timer like this. If you use a normal remote or 10 second timer, it seems to be a lot harder, because youll have to move back and forth between the camera and scene a bunch. With the timer, you can program it, and get a burst of shots at once. I normally set it to something like 10 second delay, with 15 photos at 3 second intervals. So you can slowly move around during the photo, and get a ton of alternatives. If theres fast movement, you can set it to continuous timer with intervals in between too. (I probably explained that poorly, sorry! haha)

The t4i doesn't have wifi, but it does have an IR sensor on the front. If your phone has an IR sensor like the Galaxy S4, you can download an app that will send the signal to the camera. If you don't, you can always buy an IR remote like this one for about $20.

The camera has Bulb (B) exposure mode. Maybe your app can use it for longer exposures? Or get a cheap intervalometer. For AP you will do better with a tracker and the lenses you have. For Northern Lights short (5-10) second exposures are good. They move, so fine detail gets blurred after a few seconds.

​

I am at 51°N so darkness will be gone shortly until late July.

The Yongnuo RF-605 will do it—$33 for a pair. Hook up the 2.5mm cable to the trigger and XT-2, then hold the other trigger in your hand and fire away.

The bonus is they will also fire the YN560IV flash if you put the trigger on the hotshoe. (but LMK if you end up doing that as there is a small mod you need to do)

Pretty much any wireless trigger that uses a 2.5mm connector should work because it's a simple "connection" signal.

https://www.amazon.com/2-4GHz-Wireless-Shutter-Release-Control/dp/B01IJZKCSC/
https://www.amazon.com/Pixel-TW-283-DC0-Wireless-300series/dp/B004BZMGMA (E3 version)

In various forums, this one seems popular relative to price. I intend to get it soon, once I free up a little spending money in the budget (I probably need a new flash first, my Minolta 360PX isn't nearly as good when it can't get TTL metering from the camera).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NSE1F6I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the Amazon Basics remote and it works great.

I take them myself using a remote shutter like this one! :)

I think this will do what you need; http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Intervalometer-Photography-Multi-Terminal-DSC-RX100III/dp/B00NSE1F6I/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1453162928&sr=1-1&keywords=neewer+remote+sony
 
I have one, but have only used it for long exposure, if I have a chance tonight I can try to play with it and find out for you. Or someone else might know.

I have a D3300, grabbed this off amazon a while ago and it works perfectly fine (I'd be surprised if it suddenly would lose compatibility on a later gen: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Remote-Control-Cameras/dp/B003L1ZYZ6/?th=1

Supposedly it keeps draining the battery when it's in, so just take it out whenever you're not using it, just a head's up

you could use a Bluetooth shutter like this one https://www.amazon.com/CamKix-Wireless-Bluetooth-Shutter-Smartphones/dp/B00PJSIIES

or connect the wired headphones and use the button as shutter :)

I've had good luck with this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IJZKCSC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

FujiFilm compatibility isn't usually listed clearly; as long as the output is a 2.5mm plug it will work with FujiFilm.

For all of you using timers/tripods a wireless shutter release like this might be easier. http://www.amazon.com/FotoTech-FTML-L3-Wireless-Shutter-Release/dp/B00F5JV4NS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405961773&sr=8-1&keywords=remote+shutter+release

Yourself:

Practice in front of a mirror to see what are your best angles, expressions, etc.

​

Gear:

Put your camera on a tripod. Tether to your computer, so you can see instant results and don't have to walk all the time. Get a remote shutter.

​

Remote Shutter link

Tethering cable should already come with your camera.

I bought the Pixel 2.4 Ghz shutter release, and so far I'm happy with it. It does basically everything you'd want, including bulb, interval, and delay. You can use it wired or wireless as well.

The only gotcha I've found is that you have to disable continuous mode on the camera to avoid capturing extra shots.

PIXEL FSK 2.4GHz Wired or Wireless Timer Shutter Remote Control for Nikon D3100, D5000, D7200, D600, D610, D750, D3200, D3300 Cameras

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IHCWRAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_BvIecZ4Cd1PsM

Be sure to order the correct package; different Nikon cameras take different trigger cables.

Im a noob at this, and just purchased all my gear over the last few weeks here. Its arriving by May 6th, so what are some things I should know about photography to help me improve?

Gear:

Camera: Sony Alpha A230

ND Filter: BW 10 stop Filter

Tripod: Amazon Basic 60 inch

Shutter release: Neewar DSLR Shutter release

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Canon-RC-6-Remote-Control-RC-06/dp/B0037NX6JY/

A remote for my new camera ;O this will help me so much with creating my portfolio ready for college and work and also with filming my youtube videos :3

I use the cheapo amazon basics wireless release with my D3200. If all you need to do is trigger the shutter, this will do exactly that with no wires needed. Works great on bulb mode, just hit the button to open the shutter and hit it again when you want to close it.

Why not use a wired intervalometer and just wrap it around your tripod? That way you don't have to worry about the signal.

Good, cheap one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008FBMSWY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1404625914&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Control-Digital-Cameras/dp/B003L1ZYZ6

Just the basic IR remote should do the trick. I've done this with a D7000, though it's been a bit since the last time I did.

Basically, put the camera in manual mode and for remote control. The exposure should be a couple of dashes. Press once to open the shutter, and again to close it. The shutter closes automatically after half an hour in case you forget about it.

I'm pretty sure you can do the same with the D3200, though I may be mistaken. One with an intervalometer might be a safer bet.

I bought the wrong intervalometer for my D750, it's not a super expensive one, but I already trashed the packaging so returning to Amazon is out. Does anyone have a camera that supports it that wants it?

Link

Ive seen third party timelapse triggers that ramp up and down camera settings however they usually start at about $200 (USD) which is why I haven't tried them out. I also use a regular intervalometer and try to adjust my settings manually as the lighting changes. Honestly, no one will notice a short gap in your clip when you are adjusting the settings.

I still want the real remote (for the GPS function), but also just ordered a cheap BT remote after watching a few videos on it

for $8, it's worth taking a change

https://www.amazon.com/CamKix-Bluetooth-Shutter-Control-Smartphones/dp/B00PJSIIES/

​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5-RjXMafDw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84DqJUYEZxA

Yea, I was thinking this shutter remote, and I already have a nice tripod. Are there any other scope illuminators that can be bought? I don't have easy access to a 3D printer. Also, do I need to get a ball head? I typically shoot film, so I just have this video tripod head. Any ball head's you would recommend?

I found one on Amazon Prime for $9, thanks for the tip!

Haha no such thing as a noob question.

Technically the remote is called an "Intervalometer". Here's the official canon intervalometer on Amazon.

There's a ton of Chinese knockoffs for much cheaper, that's what I have. You tell it how long of an exposure you want, and how often you want it to take a photo, and it will take the pictures for you.

This way your spacing between each photo is much more precise than if you were trying to keep count yourself and hit the button.

Does the Amazon Basics remote control for Nikon cameras allow you to do bulb mode? I want to take pictures of star trails and my camera only lets me go up to 30 seconds so I was hoping to get a remote to let me do bulb. Here is the link to it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1ZYZ6/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IJZKCSC/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A26ZYWFS2COV5E&psc=1

An intervalometer will do what you want if your camera has a remote shutter release.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Control-Hasselblad/dp/B003WD0IKO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486048999&sr=8-1&keywords=intervalometer

I use this. A bit more expensive but much more than just a remote shutter release and it works well

you'd need a phone with an IR blaster for the d3300. i'd just (and i have) bought a cheap wireless shutter release like this one: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Control-Digital-Cameras/dp/B003L1ZYZ6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1449883441&sr=1-3&keywords=nikon+wireless+shutter

It was like $22. Here's a link
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Timer-Remote-Canon-D2000/dp/B005LT7CE2

something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Intervalometer-Time-lapse-Photography-Multi-Terminal/dp/B00NSE1F6I

It's probably just the app. If you need to do longer exposures on your time lapses i'd recommend a cheap remote. I use this one

It's very basic but I've used the Canon Remote Control RC-06 and that works for my light painting. Don't know if it'd be any different for astronomy particularly. Here's the amazon link

Search for portrait or headshot photographers if you want a professional photo.

Personally, I would do it on my own. For less than $20, you can get a shutter control button and versatile phone tripod. I have both and while I don't often have reason to use them, they've worked well for me. You also can simply use your phone camera' timer feature. If you do a search for DIY headshots, you'll find many tutorials on how to get a good photo.

Maybe look at other people's profile pictures and take note of what you do and don't like, and bring that information to your own photo shoot.

Yeah I used one by Neewer. Each shot was 5 seconds apart and there were approx. 1200 pictures in total. This video is 60fps.

Link to the one I got last year: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00NSE1F6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_E90sDbKYE7RF7

This is cool, but why? When there's this

Thanks! And no, i used this $16 intervalometer

Amazon makes one for under $10!

I found something like this just don't know how good is that ...
https://www.amazon.com/LensRegain-Reducing-Telecompressor-wireless-controller/dp/B01EHRQ4NI

Don't get a cheap crappy remote, get this one for $10: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Control-Digital-Cameras/dp/B003L1ZYZ6

This one to be specific: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Timer-Remote-Canon-D2000/dp/B005LT7CE2/

I was able to dig this up from my Amazon Order History

Maybe a remote shooter would help you? You'd carry a physical reminder to shoot, and they are reasonably cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Shutter-Release-Control-Hasselblad/dp/B003Q9RERY

or

http://www.amazon.com/Polaroid-Shutter-Release-Control-Replaces/dp/B008FBMSWY

Here is the official cannon version http://www.amazon.com/Canon-RC-6-Wireless-Controller-Digital/dp/B0037NX6JY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2000QE9LY3VOK&coliid=I338CVZNH42MUB

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Control-Digital-Cameras/dp/B003L1ZYZ6/ref=pd_cp_p_4 man just get this one

Exactly that, plus this so you don’t have to keep running back to your iPhone after each swing:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJSIIES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Af3hDbPCETKFD

[AmazonBasics Wireless shutter Remote]
(http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Remote-Control-Canon/dp/B00BCEJ0E0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416769020&sr=1-3&keywords=wireless+shutter+remote)

The pro Canons use a different connector from the axial plug of the low-end models.

https://www.amazon.com/Aputure-Remote-Shutter-Release-Intervalometer/dp/B003Y34AK6 or
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Timer-Remote-Canon-D2000/dp/B005LT7CE2/

The IR ones... they’re so handy.

Link, but for whichever camera.

8 Bucks

ahh...

https://smile.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Shutter-Control-Smartphones/dp/B00PJSIIES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521523088&sr=8-1&keywords=remote+shutter+iphone

$9. That plus a little tripod for your phone and you’re set.

> Aputure focal reducer

https://www.amazon.com/LensRegain-Reducing-Telecompressor-wireless-controller/dp/B01EHRQ4NI

In Camera App - https://www.playmemoriescameraapps.com/portal/usbdetail.php?eid=IS9104-NPIA09014_00-000003
Timer Remote Control Intervalometer - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NSE1F6I/
Android - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.thibaudperso.sonycamera&hl=en

AmazonBasics Wireless Remote Control for Canon Digital SLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCEJ0E0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tfGTzbEQHKNVC

You can get a wireless remote shutter button for $9. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Control-Digital-Cameras/dp/B00BCEJ0E0/

Get a bluetooth shutter remote.

https://www.amazon.com/CamKix-Wireless-Bluetooth-Shutter-Smartphones/dp/B00PJSIIES

Here you go

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NSE1F6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_Do2bBb2MJ75YZ

Remote

this is the one I used - $8.99

Amazon Basics.

I have a D3200 and have shot some basic astrophotography, and with a wireless remote to trigger the shutter, you can make up for some of the functionality of the intervalometer.

This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NSE1F6I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'd still need to set up bracketing on the camera, though.

This is what I bought specifically for my D3200

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005UG3KS8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1376453572&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

Once or twice the shutter has stayed open after pressing the remote once, but it usually opens and shuts with one push.

i use the Pixel Wireless Shutter Release for doing astrophotography.

You can just get this You'll just have to make sure you hit the IR sensor on the front of the camera for it to fire.

you need to set it to "BULB" mode and either use an intervalometer (https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Intervalometer-Time-lapse-Photography-Multi-Terminal/dp/B00NSE1F6I) or i heard you can use a wireless remote as well and just hold the button. Lots of tutorials on youtube if you're still confused

Yup, I use this for my stop motion stuff. Saves tons of time, and the camera angle doesn't shake.

You can use the remote controller: http://www.amazon.com/Canon-RC-6-Wireless-Controller-Digital/dp/B0037NX6JY

You engage the remote control mode, and push once to start the bulb exposure, and push again to stop it. No contact required, and you get the remote functionality too.

There's a cheaper version of that same pistol grip w/ free shipping: http://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-HRDV-Handle-Cleaning-Camcorders/dp/B00NA797JU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_p_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1B13W2V0BZ0JC14SD8Z1

I picked one up. It's decent for the price. I would have been willing to pay more for a more robust handle, but the hard, hollow plastic one keeps it light weight. For the most part, the handle feels sturdy once it's screwed in. I haven't had any problems with the start/stop button for recording.

I am indeed wrong.

This should work for the 7D Mk2

http://amzn.com/B008FBMSWY

Once upon a time I had a remote for my camera. I used it all of the time while shooting macro photography. Then one day last week, I lost it. I have no idea where it went. I probably spent 3+ hours searching my house and workplaces for it. But as my mom always used to say, "It must've grown legs and walked away."

As a graphic designer and photographer, this has made my job much more difficult than I was expecting. I do a lot of food photography, which requires a very steady shot for the dishes and ingredients I am shooting. I have to use the timer on my camera which takes an incredible amount of time as compared to when I used a remote. This is the remote I had been using.

Given your use case and budget ... probably an old, used smartphone (maybe find one with a broken screen) and a CamKix remote:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJSIIES/

https://www.howtogeek.com/215086/ask-htg-whats-the-easiest-way-to-add-a-remote-camera-shutter-to-my-smartphone/

LG makes some phones for under US$50 (You may already have something suitable lying around). Then you'd need a stand for it.

My cheap ass Chinese made Viltrox allows you to set shot duration, interval between shots, and number of shots. It's universal, they just include cables to fit whatever camera you buy it for.

Edit: here's the same one with a Neewer badge for the a6000. See how it says DELAY LONG INTERVAL N?

DELAY is delay before starting, LONG is how long the shutter is open for, INTERVAL is time between shots, N is number of shots.