Book wise, the two things I could not be without, both for initially learning technique and also revisiting as well are the Whitehouse Scale and Arpeggio Album (UK|US) and then also the Feuillard Daily Exercises (UK|US) (both Schott published).
Record yourself playing and watch it back, don't be afraid to use a metronome and a tuner.

Personally I'm looking in to learning to draw right now, but the approach is very similar for effective learning, focus on technical skills as they are the base to build off. Style is great to develop, but without the technique there to support it you could be building fundamentally poor habits. Things like bow control are honestly easier to understand when being observed, but Scales and Arpeggios will help you understand basic shapes you should form for each key helping you to not fear key signatures with more sharps and flats.

Feuillard is key to building all technical habits. The book is split in to 5 sections so you can focus on one part at a time, and once you've built up your skills can then mix and match exercises from each section to make sure you keep on top of everything. The book helps build a solid left hand, good transitions between hand positions, smoother bow control and for the bolder also working on thumb position technique.

It's imperative you have the cello tuned properly when you play, and from early on be relentless on ensuring you are in tune, so if necessary go very slowly and use a tuner to check each note is right before moving ahead. This will help train your ear to pick out when a note is not only out of tune, but better understand whether you are flat (under) or sharp (over). A good way to mix this would be using a tuner while you approach the first exercises in Feuillard as they focus on smaller shapes such as moving between two close notes. There are a great many free apps out there for smartphones that can help with tuning (personally use insTuner on iOS).

The other side to understand would be rhythm. Again, a good thing to revisit even if you have musical history elsewhere as it never hurts to check. Metronomes are an essential tool for learning in my opinion. When approaching a new piece of music it is best to ignore style initially to focus on accuracy. Once you know the music then you can play with how you want to present it, but until then, keeping a steady and consistent pace is a good habit to build. Again, many great free apps for this, (personally using Metronome by Soundbrenner on iOS). I'd personally recommend focusing on note accuracy before rhythm as a priority to ensure that what you're playing is correct before adding the pressure of time constraints through keeping tempo.

I started learning when I was 6, and for 10 years of learning through teachers my schools had there was a focus only on learning the music for each graded exam and barely any focus on the scales and arpeggios part and worse still no real focus on understanding technique beyond the music I would be examined with. It wasn't until 10 years later, well after finishing the graded system and getting a private teacher that I was completely pulled apart for my lack of technical understanding and foundation. From here I was told I had to get the two books I mentioned at the start and they formed the basis of not only my practice at home, but also each lesson I had with them. I noticed a rapid change in what I could do as a cellist though, seeing sight reading become incredibly more simple having the shapes and sounds already in my head. The movements and habits you build speed up your learning process everywhere else too, so technique always and first.

Lastly, even if you don't pursue a teacher right now, still get others opinions on how you are progressing, even if that means putting a recording of yourself and sharing it with other cellists to receive feedback. I've seen others do that here and until you build enough knowledge to be able to check yourself effectively, it's always good to get another's opinions on where you are at in case you subconsciously have been maybe avoiding improving on one skill or maybe even just need to return to another.

Hope that helps.

EDIT:
If you want a good selection of music to learn alongside technical development, baroque music in general is perfect for that given the way music and harmony was approached during that era of music, but I'd recommend the Bach Six Suites for Cello (Barenreiter BA 320 UK|US).

[edit2] Wow, thanks for the gold, stranger! First time I got a comment gilded :-)

___

Ok, lots of questions, I'll try to hit them all. (edit: didn't realize how long this was going to be, sorry!! TL;DR: accessories are fine, but don't invest in that instrument itself because it has no resale value and if/when you upgrade, it will have good "parts" on it already).

Strings - your new strings (linked) look better than the stock ones. Not good. But a bit less bad. If you were thinking of upgrading, I would say don't get a full set. Just replace the A/D (or even just the A) and see how it compares. They should be about $20 each for the A/D strings. Those are the spares I carry in my case (I play Larsen, but don't want $50 spares, especially if someone else asks for one!). Jargar are kinda harsh, but in a good way - they are loud, easy to project, and cut through the mix of the orchestra very well. Easier to be heard, that kind of harsh. On the downside, they require more work of you to not squeak. The cheaper the strings, the easier they squeak, and crunch, and eventually go dead if you apply enough pressure (like crunching that never turns into tone?) but maybe that's not happening to you if you don't have good rosin. So onto point 2!

Rosin. Get this stuff it's superb. I used to pay 2-3x that price, I'm so thrilled it's become readily available. I'm not sure it's quite as good as it was in the 90s, but after experimenting with about a dozen brands (including synthetic, because I'm allergic to pine), this is the one I come back to. You'd think it doesn't much matter, and I used to think that too. Until I did the experiment and found that rosin brand/composition does make a difference. I don't know how much you can hear it, but you can DEFINITELY feel it! Which makes playing easier/harder, and the audience can always hear you working hard. They want to hear you make it look easy, right? Right. Get the Hill Light (violin/viola/cello). Smooth as butter, easy as pie, and creamy like a... something french dessert, I don't know... As for the old rosin, use a dry cloth and just gently wipe and wipe and wipe. Don't use alcohol. it will dry out the hair. Also, you can put new rosin even if the hair isn't 100% clean. It mixes right in, no problems. Wipe off some old, then put on too much of the new Hill rosin. It will make some dust, then in a week put on too much again. Then it should be good to apply once or twice a week from there (depending on how much you play).

Tailpiece is 100% you're done. End game quality right there. Some prefer wood, but whatever. I think I have one of those on one of my cellos. Only problem is you can't fit gut strings because they're thicker and have knots instead of balls at the end :-) The reason it's easier to tune is not the tailpiece, though, it's the fine tuners. Either way, you're sorted. Mazel tov.

Bow - holy cow, that looks legit for the price! Depends on the quality of the hair, though... I pay about that for just the hair every couple years on my carbon fiber bow (CodaBow Classic, I think they're not as expensive as they used to be, mine was top of the line 15-20 years ago and I paid like $1500 for it? Carbon Fiber was not as common so much more expensive in every product... now you can get CF sunglasses for $20 haha). Hard to tell if your struggles might be from the bow hair (stick is probably fine) or the rosin. Easier/cheaper to change the rosin first, though!

For the buildup on the strings, I'd say replace the strings (haha!) - no, but really, take a clean handkerchief and give them a rough hand-wiping at least once a week (some do it every time they play, but not me, I'm lazy!). Every now and then (once a year for me?) I'll put a little bit of rubbing alcohol on the cloth and carefully wipe the rosin-y parts of the strings. If you get alcohol on the cello, it will dissolve the varnish. That's bad. If you get it on the fingerboard, you might find out your fingerboard is painted black and not real ebony... etc. Just be careful. Also, when you clean the strings, take a few seconds to clean the entire length from nut to bridge, because oils from your skin build up in between the wrappings on the strings and make them heavier (so they don't want to vibrate as freely). This extends the life of my strings from 1 year to like 5 years. (again, I'm lazy. Sometimes I don't change for 10 years... but I like a dull/warm sound anyway).

LASTLY

On to the cello itself... Where to begin... The tuning pegs can be replaced, and the peg box can be reamed to better fit the friction pegs (or geared pegs if you want to go crazy). People used friction pegs for hundreds of years so don't moan too loudly. As for the tone, I think the thickness of the finish/varnish make a big difference, the amount of glue (and type) in the seams makes a difference, and the thickness of the wood. The thinner it is, the easier it vibrates. the heavier it is, the harder it is to get a full sweet sound. That also has some to do with the quality of the bridge (which needs to be carved by a luthier, you can't just get a Fournier bridge from Amazon and stick it on there... Expect to pay $75-250 for a bridge out the door from a pro, depending on the quality of the blank. He will also set it up for you). Don't put a fancy bridge on a junk cello tho. It will always be heavy. And it feels heavy when you play. Even in just the left hand. The neck is chunky like a baseball bat (so it won't break?) and the fingerboard might not be perfectly planed, the action can be too high (bridge height can help this, but the nut can also be a problem - and at that point, you do get buzz sometimes if the fingerboard isn't perfectly flat). The fingerboard can be thick/heavy and not vibrate easily - which means it absorbs vibration from the strings, and deadens your sound. Mostly, it's the playability and feel - not like sharp frets, more like the smoothness of the neck like a Strat with nitro finish or matte vs full gloss poly, right? People sand down the neck to get a "nicer" smoother playing? Same thing. It will also feel different in your knees (like a nicer guitar can feel better in your lap? Maybe a $3k American Strat doesn't feel any better than a $500 mexican, but it might feel a LOT better than a $50 knock-off, you know?)

I wouldn't put much more into the cello itself. I'd get a decent A string, depending on what your budget and goals are, I'd recommend the $20 Jargar or maybe D'Addario Kaplan which is much gentler sounding and feeling, sweet and easy to play, but not loud, hard to project and easy to choke it if you press too hard, but I like them for beginners overall. I'd say get good rosin. The wood bow it came with is also probably fine, but play both and see if you can actually feel a difference - play for 15 minutes with one, then switch for 15 minutes so you have time to get used to it. Put good (Hill) rosin on both of them.

Lastly, after you've been playing for a bit (enough to play a Bach minuet from the 6 suites, or the Breval sonata or something, like 6 months in?) go find a local luthier or bowmaker, see if they have a showroom where you could test-drive a $5k cello (that's middle intermediate, like high school players). they should give you a bow and some privacy. See how it feels compared to what you're used to. It's hard to gauge sound under the ear. If you're shopping for sound, you need to take someone with you (a teacher) or have someone at the shop play them for you while you sit across the room listening. But you can definitely feel the difference. They will probably come with Larsen A/D and Spirocore tungsten C/G strings, they'll give you a $1k wood bow to test it with, and the end-pin will be sharp :-)

If you want to argue the difference between a $5k cello and a $50k cello, it gets harder to quantify and you'd have have to do it in person, not in writing. But from where you are? A $1500 yamaha cello would be a step up, but you wouldn't understand what you're missing. I'd say $3500-5k and preferably a locally handmade one (no "brand," just the maker's name inside). It's not snobbery, there's something you'd just have to feel, but you might not be at a place yet to tell the nuance.

Not sure what your price range is or what your bf has but here are some ideas (I'll try to go from cheapest to most expensive) :

A nice dark rosin. http://www.amazon.com/Original-Hill-Dark-Rosin-Violin/dp/B000F3FQP6


Chair strap. http://www.amazon.com/Xeros-Anchor-Endpin-Rest-Cello/dp/B000FCJUV8/ (This is the kind I have. There is no substitute, if he doesn't have a strap like this then he really needs one. If you are buying one note that you get one with a circular holder for the end pin and not a V-shaped one. The V-shaped ones are for basses and don't work nearly as well)


Sheet music. I am a fan of the Music Minus One (MMO) series. However a nice anniversary gift might be duet music. I can help think of some good duet music if you want but would like to know a little more about your playing level.


Bow rack. I bought my rack at Home Depot and it looks like this. (actual pic, sorry no link) http://i.imgur.com/Ytww0.jpg They're just hooks, but I really like mine


Cello CDs. There's a lot of good recordings out there but that's for you to find, I can give some suggestions if you want.


Music stand. http://www.amazon.com/Manhasset-Model-Sheet-Music-Stand/dp/B0002FOBJY/ If all your bf has is a wire stand then this is a great gift. There's also stuff like pencil holders, lights, and other stuff that would make good gifts as well.


Cello stand. There are lots of stands out there, I highly recommend a stand that supports the neck of the cello like this. http://www.amazon.com/Stagg-Foldable-Stand-for-Cello/dp/B003ZUEQLG/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1343515413&sr=1-6&keywords=cello+stand




There are some other cool stuff you could get, but may come off as offensive.


A practice mute. I would suggest an ebony comb style mute kind.http://www.amazon.com/JSI-Ebony-Cello-Mute/dp/B000F3HK5U/ over a "tourte style"

A tuner and or metronome. I use http://www.amazon.com/Matrix-MR500-Metronome/dp/B0002F6ZJI/

A wolf tone eliminator. http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Cello-Wolftone-Eliminatr-Brass/dp/B003KWGW9I

If you can afford it, a nice set of strings would always be appreciated! This set is one of the better combinations around. There is also an option to buy a silk bag for cheap if you buy those strings, but even that would be a great gift alone :)

Otherwise, If he likes to practice in the evening, a heavy duty mute maybe? I use the Artino Cello Practice Mute

If he needs a endpin stop, the Dycem Black Hole hasn't failed me yet!

What kind of level is he? You could buy him some nice sheet music! Are you musical? Buy something you can play together!

Does he have a metronome? A nice mechanical metronome like the TakTell Piccolo would be ideal!

I really liked this book after not playing since a little after high school, so about 7 years inactive.

What I found more important than just working on technique was finding a reason to play consistently, and to challenge myself. I found that with musician friends that needed a cellist (start simple with something like Wonderwal). And also with friendly community orchestras. Playing with others is challenging as it forces you to listen to yourself and others, and it greatly motivates polishing your technique.

Find fun and enjoyment in the hobby, I haven’t stopped playing since and have met many wonderful people out of my music adventures. Good luck!

Rent. Don't buy. If you need to buy, think if you can consider electric. You can find some cheap electric cellos around. I ended up getting one so I could practice at night without waking my family (particularly the children). I ended up getting this one, and after a few trips to the luthier to fix certain things up (bridge was too tall, and the fingerboard needed to be planed), and getting a new bow and set of strings, it gets a very decent sound and does exactly what I need it to for nighttime practice with headphones. Note that in all, this option did end up costing me about $450 with taxes, shipping and extra work, plus the fact that the bow I'm using is a $300 bow I'd already had for my other cello, and that I'm using a $100 guitar amp I'd already had.

I don't think under $300 is really a point where you can get an acceptable sound (especially with an acoustic cello), but if you're only using it for home practice, and can get by using a school cello while at school events, your options with electric instruments are going to be better at a lower price point than with acoustics. You could probably get by pretty well if you up your expectations from $300 to $500-ish with work and other parts.

I'd recommend still renting if you can get away with it. My school when I was going had a rental program that was $50 for the school year, and a $20 summer rental. That's going to be less than you'd spend on that $300 cello for your entire tenure at high school, and will be likely much better quality. If you get a cheap crappy cello, you'll likely have to get a better cello at around that timeframe anyway. Seriously, rent if you can. You'll spend less money, have a better experience, and you'll have the option to spend a little more for a better rental, rather than having to invest a whole lot more to buy a better cello later. By the time you'd want to buy your own instrument, you'll probably have to buy a better instrument if you buy now regardless. Always rent. Only buy if you absolutely need to or if you've already planned it out seriously and are going to drop a lot of money on an instrument that will last you at least decades.

practice etudes too. they’re beneficial like scales but they are more fun to play / sound a little prettier! here is a nice book of them if you don’t mind shelling out. it also may help to have occasional lessons to make sure your posture is still on point— makes a much bigger difference than you’d think

I haven't read it myself but Cello Playing for Music Lovers advertises it self as comprehensive and focused on adult beginners specifically . As a bonus one of the top reviews runs down multiple book options. Myself I'm also going through Essential Elements like you mentioned and enjoy it.

Since you're not going with a teacher I would highly suggest some YouTube channels like Johnathan Humphries and Sarah Joy.

Lastly, I would be iffy about being purely self taught, there are many teachers who do half hour lessons and will probably do it cheaper. Especially people who are current music students and don't have 15 years of teaching. Even if you had to go with once a month. There are ways in which you can give yourself unhealthy habits that could even be painful later on. So an occasional correction and instruction might really help. If you really can't... Play with a mirror.

Scales, my dear. Scales are you greatest friend and enemy. Also, slow practice enables faster learning. Sometimes the most efficient way to learn something is to go slow. Do not get frustrated at the time it takes to learn it.

When I first started learning cello, this book was my best friend. It will help you learn your finger positions, as well as provide music for you to practice it with.

Good luck!!

I have a few questions for you here if you don't mind. I'm a (very) beginner cellist and I'm playing one of these cheap-ass amazon cellos. I immediately replaced the tailpiece, the bow, the strings, and the rosin. I'd say the tailpiece and bow replacements really dramatically increased playability for me, though the base instrument is still obviously kind of shit.

What I want to know is, what kind of a difference would I see in being on an actual better Cello? Given the nature of the beast, it seems like i'm not running into the playability issues that you do on terrible guitars (bad frets, buzzing), and I'm not going to. I understand tone won't be the best, but I'm not certain I'm a good enough player for that to matter yet anyway. The whole friction peg situation is a pain, but the better tailpiece means I rarely have to re-tune at the head, I just get them stuck in the general area and i'm good for like a month.

Also, you mentioned putting better strings on, can you comment a little more on the difference between a $20 set, and say, this set of jargars? Edit: I guess you already did, What I mean is, can you describe the specific way cheap strings sound bad that better ones don't? I want to see if that's a part of my experience.

Also also, the rosin i'm using is still pretty damn cheap, and I feel like i'm leaving alot of rosin on the strings (a white cake buildup), but it takes really alot of rosin for the bow to feel sticky. Is better rosin better in that way? Do you have a recommendation on brand? How do you de-rosin a bow to get the chance to switch brands?

Thanks!

That's a great point. I use the Shadow SH-955. Piezo pickups are great, but the signal they send is pretty weak, especially without a preamp. Depending on whether you're using an amp or plugging in direct you may also want to consider investing in a good D.I. I use the LR Baggs Para Acoustic D.I.. Gives you a great amount of control over your EQ and a hefty boost in signal strength without compromising tone.

Here are some excellent devices to aid people with osteoarthritis:

https://www.amazon.com/TheraBand-Progressive-Strengthen-Strengthener-Resistance/dp/B00I1FNHXS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523727327&sr=8-4&keywords=Theraband+Hand+Xtrainer

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A58F8OY/ref=twister_B07BC45WYL?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A58F8OY/ref=twister_B07BC45WYL?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Another elxcellent pain relief therapy is a warm parafin bath, much like many nail salon/spas offer. I had a recent injury to my left hand (fell on it on ice and got a bad contusion), and this is a very pleasant form of relief

I suspect that the size of the cello is not so important as the issues you have with function, and it is for this reason that I ask you to be more specific as to what functional issues you are having with playing the cello. Is it the left hand, the right hand, and what exactly you experience that you wish to address?

Feuillard (free on IMSLP is absolutely my bible. I don't use anything else any more for technique work. For etudes, everyone should have Popper - then, depending on your level, I would add Duport and/or Piatti collections. I spent years and years working my way through the Three Volume Schroeder Collection, it covers a great range of material. Probably 10-20% of the etudes there are a little thin, good to play through a few times but not worth real work. But I definitely became a good sightreader by just plowing through lots of it, and it contains gems from other collections (the aforementioned Duport and Piatti, for example).

There's also a very neat scales book called The Art of Scales. It's no Flesch or Galamian, but it has an interesting approach where each page is devoted to a key and you're presented with a variety of arpeggios, double stops, excerpts, etc for each key. It keeps things varied and covers lots of bases once you've already got your foundational work down.

I have used a book called "Cello Playing for Music Lovers - a self teaching method" by Vera Mattlin Jiji for teaching one of my adult students. You can look inside the book on Amazon.com and see if you like it. It includes a CD which helps you hear the proper sound. The writer is a retired English professor who writes well, and provides accurate word descriptions and reference photographs.

It is much better to have a teacher, but if you need to start on your own, this book may be useful reference material for the correct hand position, posture, etc. and it has a number of songs to play arranged in a progressive sequence.

If you buy this book, don't pay list price for it. You should be able to find it for under USD $40.00.

Go get your sound post adjusted. That might help it become more manageable with eliminators. Also, try squeezing the cello with your knees when you play the note. It's not the most ideal solution, but it works fairly well.

I bought this one from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003KWGW9I?cache=bacae8532cc2759f4a78c0fafe56edbf&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1407362686&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
(Sorry no formatting, I'm on my phone)

There are also mutes that hang off the string below the bridge that might be more appropriate for a really bad wolf.

I don't know why your teacher wants you to buy a new cello. It seems like you guys haven't really tried much in terms of controlling it. Try getting it adjusted by a luthier (not your teacher) and ask them what they would recommend you to get.

Edit: For some reason I feel very wary of your teacher asking you to replace your cello simply because of a wolf. Any teacher should know that a good cello will have a wolf and know what to do to manage it. I would be cautious in considering the cello your teacher wants you to buy...often when instructors get in with people who sell instruments they are offered a percentage on sales that come from their recommendation. I'm not saying this is definitely the case, but it's pretty weird that they wanted you to get rid of what is probably a perfectly good cello because of a common and fixable problem. If there's ever a time when you want to replace you cello, shop around yourself.

This is a complex question. First, it assumes that your teacher has taught good posture, and good LH and RH technique, you have a decent instrument and bow, etc. My first violin came with a Glasser bow and I happily started playing with it, it sounded pretty decent to me, until... I saw in a store that it was a $40 fiberglass bow, then i decided it sounded terrible.

Anyway, i've watched a number of violin and cello teachers over the years try to verbalize the action of hair on strings. What develops is combination of understanding, visualization, a developed ear and muscle memory that you have to develop yourself, you don't just absorb it from your teacher. You always should do the simplest exercises, playing a single tone, and then playing correct (beatless) thirds and fifths. It may help to read about it, like in books by Bruser, Klickstein and Kenny Werner about practicing music and this trumpet story:

http://www.amazon.com/The-Musicians-Way-Practice-Performance/dp/0195343131/

http://www.allaboutjazz.com/takuya-kuroda-rising-son-takuya-kuroda-by-danmichael-reyes.php

I had some ideas but they use a bit of either third or fourth position, too- sorry! You could look at the pieces from the ABRSM grade 2 syllabus, but I like the above suggestion from UseThisOne2.

From another post:
>You might like Cello Time Joggers and then Cello Time Runners. You can kind of preview people playing pieces from them on Youtube, and the publisher has a PDF preview on their site as well:
https://global.oup.com/academic/product/cello-time-joggers--cd-9780193220874?lang=en&cc=gb

It's a book for learning from, not pieces for performance though. The piano part is sold separately. You might like the books that the ABRSM syllabus refers to for performance: More Time Pieces Volume 2 might be good, but it covers up to grade 4 so only some of the pieces might be at the correct level.

Hi, yes, AND this might be helpful to save time - this is what I do for that sort of thing:

1. Use video record on my iPhone or iPad (can also use Android's, etc.) There are microphone attachments that work with these devices, or can simply use the phone's own microphone.
   
2. Use this bluetooth clicker to remotely start and stop the recording (I grabbed mine off a selfie-stick my husband bought):
   
   https://www.amazon.com/CamKix-Wireless-Bluetooth-Shutter-Smartphones/dp/B00PJSIIES/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=camkix+wireless+bluetooth+camera+shutter+remote+control+clicker&pd_rd_i=B00PJSIIES&pd_rd_r=08ba814f-cf96-4b93-92f9-3aa6660e8904&pd_rd_w=cGZoH&pd_rd_wg=MccwE&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=YJGG4GQWQ23B8SJK8CH4&qid=1565534670&s=wireless
   
   
3. Use an app like VideoShop to edit the program on my iPhone or iPad . In Videoshop I can combine video clips, or cut out sections that didn't look good, etc. It's a nice little program.
   
   
4. Then I upload it privately to YouTube or the like (or simply save it to camera roll if I am using dropbox/etc).

A friend who knows a bow maker recommended Andrea Solo Cello Rosin. This stuff is awesome. I bought several as gifts for friends who also play. Andrea Solo Cello Rosin Full Cake https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045ZXJ68/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_z7lrybFN68ZHR

Probably weather related. I’ve seen this issue on some of the student cellos we have at the school I work at. Usually an easy fix. Also, you can buy a tailpiece with fine tuners built in for relatively cheap. It will likely improve your sound as well! As long as you’re not overtightening or being rough with them they should be fine.

Here’s a tailpiece: https://www.amazon.com/Wittner-Composite-Tailpiece-4-tuners-Tailgut/dp/B000LIC4HS

Also, if you decide you want to upgrade, I recommend Eastman brand cellos! Around 2k.

FWIW, while I am very much not a successful or confident musician (I am an older hobbyist), I have noted people here whose opinions seem usually balanced and sound recommend The Musician's Way found at http://www.amazon.com/The-Musicians-Way-Practice-Performance/dp/0195343131, which seems to me to directly speak to what you are saying.

I'd recommend Abby Newton's Crossing to Scotland as a decant collection of arrangements of Scottish Music. Also be sure to listen to the recording, since there's a whole lot that isn't necessarily on the page. My only issue is that not everything is in the traditional key signature. Someone else recommended Liz Davis Maxfield's Irish Cello book and that's also decant introduction to the genre with lots of text about how to adapt fiddle tunes to the cello. There's also a vast collection of tunes on thesession.org, though you should expect to have to transpose down one or two octaves.

If you're more focused accompaniment, take a look at some of the albums Natalie Haas has released. She also released an instructional DVD with PDF sheet music. Or, go all the way back and see the original arrangements Neil Gow wrote down. There's a long history of cello accompaniment in Scottish Music.

I don't have a lot of experience with electric-cello amps but I've been using this... $200, comes with an EQ, 4 inputs, and has some fun pedal effects built in. Sounds good to me.


https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MJ9EBA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What are your thoughts on when to start upping the practice time? I've been playing for 2 months now and just finished the first suzuki book (with a teacher). I'm practicing between 1-2 hours a day, sometimes a bit more, and could honestly throw more time at it if I wanted to but just don't feel like I have enough to work on at the moment. I've been doing 1-3 suzuki songs per week + 1-2 songs from the Position Pieces for Cello book, with a few 3-octave scales for warmup (C, F, Bb, G, D) each day

From what I've gathered, proper music students at university-ish level practice like 3-5 hours a day, but at this point I think I'd get bored practicing that much, even though I'd like to practice more because I'm so hungry to learn more.

In the under $500 range, you will be unable to purchase a quality electric cello. If it is just for practice and you're planning to perform with a traditional cello, that would be a great choice! But, if you're planning to perform with it, it is important to go with a higher cost, getting a better instrument.

This one looks like a reasonable option for your price range: https://www.amazon.com/Cecilio-CECO-1BK-Metallic-Electric-Fittings/dp/B007ESVCR6/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503664029&sr=1-2&keywords=electric+cello

I had a Cecilio cello for a short period when I first started. It was really bad but fine for the beginning. I don't know the quality of their electric cellos, though.

I have that book, and I think there's a second volume as well. But I think this one is better and it actually uses the Galamian acceleration method for scales, arpeggios, and more:

The Art of Scales, by Wells Cunningham

You should take it to Kinko's and get it spiral bound so it stays open.

there are students who are more advanced than me, but everyone is < 1 year. 3 students in total, I think, including myself.

I have been thinking of supplementing with online lessons, or perhaps a book like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Cello-Playing-Music-Lovers-Self-Teaching/dp/1412095603/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481493285&sr=8-2&keywords=cello+for+music+lovers.

But only as a supplement, not a replacement.

I have the Artino practice mute, it's amazing how much sound reduction it provides.

Artino Cello Practice Mute https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001A5J2EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jpJOCbVEVMJPN

https://www.amazon.com/Artino-PM-02-Cello-Practice-Mute/dp/B001A5J2EY

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I use this practice mute. Works very well! it lowers the volume to around conversation volume in your apartment. Highly recommend it.

Good advice in this thread-- I would advise either a pickup that goes under a foot of the bridge, or a mic that clips to the cello itself. Here's an example:
https://www.long-mcquade.com/82202/Pro-Audio---Recording/Microphones/DPA-Microphones/Instrument-Microphone-for-Cello.htm

pickup example:
https://www.amazon.com/Realist-Pickup-for-Acoustic-Cello/dp/B000LQ3COE

If you want a more electric sound put your signal through a computer or pedals on it's way to the amp.

Keep in mind you'll likely need a pick-up if you're playing with amped instruments. The Realist will work well for your needs: http://www.amazon.com/Realist-Pickup-for-Acoustic-Cello/dp/B000LQ3COE

Having a wolf tone around the F#-G is fairly common as far as I know. You can take your instrument to luthier/reparier and they can move and reduce it by placing a small clamp on the string, discreetly below the bridge. Or you can buy one of these and do it yourself.

Also, check out this article.

Here are some resources:

The Fiddling Cellist by Renata Bratt: https://www.amazon.com/Fiddling-Cellist-Renata-Bratt/dp/0786686308/ref=dp_ob_title_bk

The Irish Cello Book by Liz Davis Maxfield: https://www.amazon.com/Irish-Cello-Book-Traditional-Techniques/dp/0876391374/ref=pd_bxgy_14_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=0876391374&pd_rd_r=HSVQMVQYS80GS8MS1P73&pd_rd_w=sBI0P&pd_rd_wg=iZr7i&psc=1&refRID=HSVQMVQYS80GS8MS1P73

Andrea

Depends on your strings and setup.

That said, Hill Light Rosin.