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Reddit mentions of The Modern Maker: Men's 17th Century Doublets

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Reddit mentions: 2

We found 2 Reddit mentions of The Modern Maker: Men's 17th Century Doublets. Here are the top ones.

The Modern Maker: Men's 17th Century Doublets
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    Features:
  • Used Book in Good Condition
Specs:
Height11 Inches
Length8.5 Inches
Number of items1
Weight1.15 Pounds
Width0.35 Inches

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Found 2 comments on The Modern Maker: Men's 17th Century Doublets:

u/AFK_MIA ยท 10 pointsr/HistoricalCostuming

You will want to get a copy of Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion (https://www.amazon.com/Patterns-Fashion-Construction-Clothes-1560-1620/dp/0896760839/ref=pd_sbs_14_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0W87GRAAK069HWTTFWD3)

There are a series of 3 outfits in that book that belonged to some Swedish nobles (the Sture family) in the 1560's that will give you a fairly good pattern for the clothing that you want.

Those pants are called "pluderhosen" and are pretty tricky to construct. I'm someone with a decent amount of historical costuming experience and I'm just now starting the project to make these after building 4 pairs of simpler pants to work on building up the techniques. I'm fairly satisfied with my most recent version which is based on some of the more simple versions in the Meyer fechtbuch that lack panes, and that might be a good place for you to start as well.

These pants are quite the engineering project, so you'll have to carefully read Janet Arnold's notes and take care to make sure that you understand the correct techniques. There are a large number of gathers and these all must be hand-sewn or the garment will not work. Keep in mind that there is a form-fitting inner lining, an overly large lining layer that is gathered at the waist & leg cuff, and another somewhat fitted (in the crotch) outer layer that includes the panes.

Yes there is a codpiece. It's fairly substantial, but it gets hidden somewhat by the puffs of its inter-lining and it gets somewhat buried by the volume of fabric that surrounds it.

The length of the pluderhosen seems to vary between just above the knee and just below the knee. Longer seems to be more popular with younger, more flashy men and shorter seems to be the more conservative version for the period you're interested in.

Patterns of fashion also has a pattern for a shirts and doublets that should provide a similar fit to the ones seen here.

You may also want to pick up Matthew Gnagy's "The Modern Maker vol 1: Men's doublets" (https://www.amazon.com/Modern-Maker-Mens-Century-Doublets/dp/0692264841). The book describes all of the steps for constructing a doublet (they're more complicated than you might think), though the pattern provided by that book is Spanish and is from a few decades later than the Meyer Fechtbuch.

The two big details to keep in mind are 1) doublets stop at the natural waist (belly-button level) not your hips (which is where modern people usually wear their pants) and 2) the German doublets have a more squared waistline compared to English, Spanish, & French doublets of the era.

The "extra" piece of clothing over the doublet is a jerkin. In German, these get called a "ledergollar." They were frequently made of leather and slashed or pierced. There's a nifty one in Patterns of Fashion that you could use for a pattern; though the original was meant for a child.

The hats of the 1570's aren't the "pizza hat." Those are the really large hats from the earlier "landsknecht" era. By the 1570's the hats are smaller (like in picture #7 of your album), though a lot of woodcuts from this era show a different style called a "tall hat." The floppy hat that you linked (pic 7) is probably a variant of the flat cap. There are some flat cap patterns in Patterns of Fashion, though IIRC, those all require a bit of a gather, which is probably not quite how to make the one that you linked. Tall hats are kind of a cross between a bowler hat and a top hat. They're constructed using wool felt that is shaped over a hat block. You could also get away with a knit and fulled wool flat cap for this period.


u/DesseP ยท 6 pointsr/HistoricalCostuming

May I recommend The Modern Maker Vol 1: Men's Doublets as a more in depth resource on making a doublet? It does a very good job walking you through tailoring a doublet.