If you are really active and want to get an older dog (1-2years+) a corgi could be a really good addition. They are really active dogs and love being with their people. They are highly intelligent herding dogs, however, so you will need to take training seriously and be consistent or they can quickly become a handful. A corgi or corgi-mix, however, would likely be a good fit! It is also a good idea - if you are considering an older dog - not to be TOO concerned with breed, but rather find an individual in rescue who meets your size/exercise/personality needs and expectations.

Advice does vary from dog to dog - it is a bit like raising children. Something that works for one kid may completely backfire with another. That being said, I would encourage you to do some research on positive reinforcement and the related training methods to form the foundation of your training ideology. The whole point of positive reinforcement is to teach dogs what you EXPECT of them by making desired behaviors and skills pay off for the dog and ignoring/redirecting/discouraging behaviors and skills you don't want repeated. Dogs like corgis respond very well to this type of training as they tend to be somewhat sensitive and do not respond that well to 'discipline' in the 'dominance theory' sense. They are smart enough to repeat behaviors that are beneficial to them, they just need to know what you expect!

I would suggest these resources to get you started with training research:

• Dont Shoot the Dog
  
  
• Culture Clash
  
  
• The Power of Positive Reinforcement
  
  
• The Digital Dog Training Text Book
  
  
• /r/Dogtraining Wiki
  
  
• Kikopup Videos
  
  Also become familiar with the training clubs in your area - even with an adult dog it is recommended that you do a couple rounds of introductory obedience training, especially if this is your first dog (and DOUBLE especially if you get a corgi for your first dog).
  
  Now for the full disclosure part -
  
  
• Make sure you have a sizable about in savings and/or look into pet insurance. Medical care for a sick dog can easily run $500-$5000+, especially with genetic disorders or emergency medical care.
  
  
• Do not rely on your roommates to take care of YOUR dog. It is fine to share responsibilities to some extent, but YOU are going to need to make sure the dog is let outside regularly, has all the necessary training, has ample food and water, etc etc. Also make sure your roommates are OK with the dog. Dogs tend to chew, bark, pee, poop, vomit, among other things. If they are going to flip their shit over a chewed up shoe - maybe wait until you don't live with those people anymore.
  
  
• Make it clear the dog is YOURS. It is not uncommon in roommate situations that the line between who really owns the dog becomes blurred. If you get the dog while you live with other people make sure everyone is clear on that point (and everything related to the dog is in your name.)
  
  
• Make sure you are willing to give up your time. If you are just starting university, you are going to have a lot of opportunities to socialize/go out/travel/etc. If you get a dog, the dog needs to come first in some respects - make sure you have several options available if you need to leave for a period of time (internship/travel/etc) don't just ASSUME your roommates or parents will take your dog - make sure you can afford boarding fees and you have a trusted kennel to board your dog. Not all students are staying out all night partying, taking impulse trips, or otherwise not available but seriously consider this before you get a dog (and what will happen to the dog if things change).
  
  
• Consider your future. Here and now you have roommates and an open schedule, but what about 5 years from now? 10? Are you going into a field that requires long hours or has an irregular schedule? what if you need to make a huge move to get a job? What if you meet someone/get married/have children? How does the dog fit into your life not just now but in the FUTURE? A dog is a 10-15 year commitment, be ready for it!
  
  
• This is your first dog so do a TON of research on training, health, care, and expectations before getting one! I am not talking a couple of half-assed hours - meditate on this for the next several months and make sure that this is REALLY something you can commit to. I am sure you have already done this - but thinking about getting a dog in that dreamy state is much different than actually having one. Your first dog on your own is a huge shock to the system - you are solely responsible for a LIFE; it can hit people pretty hard sometimes. It is not uncommon for people to get cold feet or freak out and bail within the first month of having a new dog. These are often the people who act more on impulse or idealism rather than realism and planning - it can happen to anyone, but I guess my point is make sure this is something you REALLY want.
  
  Dogs are great - as a corgi owner, myself, CORGIS are great, but they will change your life (for the best, in most ways). Life is no longer about you - about long nights out partying or hanging out with friends, impulse trips or spending all weekend on the couch or absorbed in a project. Your life now includes your dog who wants to be with you ALL the time having fun adventures. You will need to spend several hours every day with your dog and for many students that is just not a reality given their class/social/work/life schedule. Be realistic about the here and now and your future! If it doesn't work out right this instant, don't worry - that right time will come! We waited 5 years to get our current corgi puppy and I am SO GLAD I waited until I had a stable job and a more reliable life schedule than when I was in school or living on my own. It has changed my life, but it has been a good change and I would not give my dog up for anything.

Virtually any dog in the universe can fit the criteria of what you described, but all breeds have their little variations.

For example, my favorite breed is the German Shepherd. And there are German Shepherds that do really well in apartment life, and others that don't. If you go to a breeder for your dog, you're going to want to find a breeder that emphasizes pet quality, safe, sane dogs. The difference between a Labrador from hunting lines and lines bred for therapy and service dog work is night and day. If you go to a shelter to adopt a dog, I would recommend taking a qualified trainer with you that's well-read on selection testing dogs, and most of all, use the resources at your disposal. Talk to the people who run the shelter and/or the rescue. They have the most experience with the dog. They will be able to help you the best.

With the two breeds you mentioned (Golden Retrievers, specifically) keep in mind the shedding issue. Labs shed too, but Golden's are just about as bad as Shepherd's (which are both, very bad.) If you have carpet, be prepared to vacuum everyday. If you intend to let your dog sleep with you on the bed, or chill on the sofa, be ready to clean your furniture daily. Your clothes will be covered in hair if you do not. Your boss will not like you showing up to work wearing your dog.

Also, please, if you haven't already, look into your apartments restrictions for pets and dog breeds, and keep in mind that if you intend on moving, you will be taking your dog with you. I love all breeds of dogs, but apartments do not. Rottweilers, German Shepherd's, Doberman's, Pitbulls (and mixes) come under notorious scrutiny when moving. For your future dogs sake, pick a breed or mixed breed that your landlords are cool with.


Some of my favorite books include:
Dog Training for Dummies which is a very basic introduction to how dogs learn, and explains the different methods available to you in an unbiased manner.

Some of my personal favorite books include:
How To Be Your Dogs Best Friend by the Monks of New Skete.
The Art of Raising A Puppy by the Monks of New Skete
The Divine Canine by the Monks of New Skete

If you haven't already guessed, I'm a huge fan of the Monks of New Skete. The put huge emphasis on calm, structured leadership and positive method obedience that works in real life situations. Plus, they're German Shepherd people. Double points.

Animals in Translation by Temple Grandin.

Dr. Temple Grandin is a high-functioning autistic that teaches at Colorado State University's veterinary science department. I've taken several classes with her, and her understanding of animals is absolutely impossible to challenge. This book is more about genetic theory and science-backed training methods. It's good reading material if you want to know more about animals (she discusses dogs and livestock in detail) but is not a training guide. She also has a lot of technical articles available on her website here.

Inside of a Dog by Alexandra Harowitz. This is a cursory introduction to canine ethology. It is not a guide, but if you want to know about how dogs think (how dogs can "smell time" for example) this is where you start.

How to Speak Dog by Stanley Coren emphasizes communication with dogs, backed in animal biology and evolution.

Canine Body Language: A photographic guide by Brenda Aloff describes in vivid detail what dogs are "saying." It's not a training guide, but will help you understand your dog much better.

Katz on Dogs by Jon Katz, a great common sense training guide to working with dogs in the home, and outdoors.
Soul of a Dog also by Jon Katz, which goes into greater detail on the personal side of working with dogs, with very helpful examples.

Imagine Life With a Well Behaved Dog by Julie Bjelland. Great book on structure and positive method dog training.

Natural Health for Dogs and Cats by Dr. Pitcairn was one of my college textbooks and it's a great start for dog nutrition and chemical-free health care for dogs. This is not a training guide, but nutrition and health are just as important (if not more) than training, so I figured I'd share.


With the exception of the first book on the list, all of these books are fairly detailed. I would highly recommend the Monks of New Skete books before any of the others. But they're all very good.

Additionally, you can read many of the articles on the AKC.org website regarding dog training, and Leerburg has some great comprehensive advice on training the working dog, which can also be applied to training family pets. He also sells a variety of videos and ebooks on the same subject matter.

TL;DR How To Be Your Dogs Best Friend & The Art of Raising A Puppy explain everything you ever need to know about training a dog, ever.

I can’t speak for every woman on the planet but I had a somewhat similar situation when I broke my back a few months before I was supposed to start my MBA. Major financial worries about delaying, GMAT, etc.

Initially I think you just need to be there to listen. Gently remind her it took you two attempts to pass the bar. My biggest comfort is the daily act of spooning with my husband every night where he rubs my back. Not like a massage but gently running his hands over my back with no expectation of sex.

If money is a concern, then look where you can be generous. Some of the best gifts are the ones we think are too expensive or we think are unnecessary for ourselves.

Somethings she would probably really appreciate: a day at a spa, like a Korean day spa where you can soak all day, get some treatments, journal etc. In the Seattle area there is one called The Olympus Day Spa that is amazing, in case you happen to randomly live there. Most major cities have places like that.

Lacking that, a long massage, at least 90 minutes where she can really relax. Bonus if she can get a facial. Reflexology and foot rubs are always winners for most women I know. Either pick her up and drop her off or pay for an Uber/Lyft so she doesn’t have to drive. Then, movies and chill.

If you can afford it, take a long weekend and go somewhere really chill. The opposite of Vegas. Her nervous system needs a reset. Think hot springs if you live any near those. Snow. Cabin. No wifi or cell service. Hot springs. That would be idea.

Other things: one of the things that sounds so ridiculous but really bites about financial issues is not being able to afford the makeup and things that make you feel beautiful. If your confidence is shot from something like failing the boards, then not having the money to replace your makeup stocks or get your hair done feels rotten. I hardly wear makeup, but what I do wear is not cheap. If she gets her makeup from Sephora or Nordstrom, a gift card there would be nice.


Also, it would be natural to jump into studying again, but see if you can encourage her to take a break. Let her brain rest. Let her nervous system reset.


I struggled with cognitive function and have experimented a bit with smart drugs. I really, really like nicotine. Not tobacco. I don’t smoke, but I use the lozenges sparingly when I really need to focus. More about it here. I got the lowest dose possible on Amazon.

Also, I’ve had great luck with GABA for anxiety.

I also really like Brain Power line from Bulletproof.

I know lots of people who love Qualia. Gave me awful headaches but I have friends that love it.

Experiment with these long before it’s test taking time. But they can really help with focus and calming.


It’s late and speaking of running out of brain power....I am. But one last thought. A good book with nothing to do with anything related to nursing wouldn’t go amiss if she likes to read.

Two suggestions. For something smart and witty but not dark or deep, every person I have ever recommend the Parasol Protectorate to has loved it.

And Outlander. The main female character is nurse and there are a lot of great medical story lines in there. It’s a huge series and easy to get lost in.

It’s lovely of you to think of how you can support her. Good work.

>You can get plant from that river what.

Technically yeah your brother is correct. Java fern originated from our own local rivers.

>Uncle: what fish you're rearing? None? What's the point?


Owhh boy, there are tons of beautiful fishes in the planted tank. Guppies and neon cardinal tetras. All of it suitable in our local climate, and if you hardworking enough at keeping the environment stable, guppies and neon tetras can breed more fishes.

I recommend this channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fv3ih_zLt4Q

James Findley (refer to the guy in the video) usually use top of the line equipment from ADA (aqua design Amano). Expensive for beginner or someone that doesn't have a deep pocket. My suggestion is to cut some of the equipment to a more cheaper alternative. ADA tank is beautiful, but super duper expensive. My recommendation is, get a tank suitable for your budget per square cm. Which mean, get what is the biggest that you can afford, because of the bigger space, the lower the chance of mess up (like overdose fertilizer etc). For soil, ADA still the best for value. Get the Amazonian soil, and get the granular type, not powder as the granular type is less "cloudy" when pouring water.


For plants, get Monte Carlo for carpeting plant. Don't get hemianthus callitrichoides 'Cuba'. From my experience, monte carlo is more forgiving than HC. Monte Carlo can survive without CO2 injection. HC need cooler water and CO2 injection. It is doable for HC to survive in a hot climate like Malaysia, but need a CO2 injection. Monte Carlo is like a big version of HC. Usually, HC is for a nano tank. Owhh yeah, these kinds of plants usually float. So you will need to be careful to anchor them. For java fern, you can anchor to the rock. Java moss you can either glue (use waterproof glue) or better use rope. ADA has a biodegradable rope. I recommend using the rope rather than glue, and ADA rope is cheap IMO.


For CO2, depends on budget. You can DIY (not recommended because it fizzles out quickly in a few weeks), or get proper canister + regulator and solenoid. As I said before, you can get away from not using Co2, especially in Malaysia, as Malaysia has higher rate exchange of O2 and Co2 due to the temperature (don't quote on me, I forget the source). That's why our tropical rainforests are among some of the oldest in the world. As our climate suitable for plant growth (we don't have winter, and tons of perennial species). It translates also to underwater growth from seaweed and local flora. You can get away from Co2 by using some of the plants that are originated from our own backyard. But if you truly interested, I'm recommending this book: https://www.amazon.com/Ecology-Planted-Aquarium-Diana-Walstad/dp/0967377366. But a bit warning, without CO2, the growth rate is slower than using Co2 injection. So need to be patient, and cannot overdose on fertilizer. Need to keep that in mind. Fertilizer is like a vitamin. Better low dosage than overdose. I recommend Seachem Flourish. If you want to keep red plants, you must buy the iron supplement. But for a beginner, just get the balance (NPK is the exact ratio like 10:10:10 with trace elements). ADA also have their own fertilizer, but you will need to check their local price. I'm using DIY method because I've already had my own liquid fertilizer from Serbajadi. Serbajadi also has liquid fertilizer intended for a normal household plant, but the ratio of NPK is super duper high (21:21:21) with trace elements. This is too high for the aquarium and if you are not careful, algae will grow rapidly in this setup. I'm preferring this method as it is cheaper than buying top of the line aquarium fertilizer as I have my own plants (chilies, tomatoes). So usually I dilute the fertilizer and shower the plants and use the rest for the aquarium.


Buy also API freshwater masterkit. Expensive, but worth every ringgit. Why? You can test almost every metrics available, from PH to water hardiness. Our local tap water PH usually ranges from 7 to 8. A bit "hard". So keep that in mind to always check the source water. Not only that, you can use the kit for a nonspecific test that is not aquarium related. For example, testing local river water quality (for fishing).


Filtration. Get an Eheim filter if you can afford it. I'm dead serious. My Eheim filter still running for 2 years. Most of the cheap filter dead less than a year. Some anecdotal review stated Eheim filter can last up to 10 years. That's how quality it is. It is super duper quiet and you literally can sleep beside it and not hear a single decibel. If you prefer overhang type, get the Fluval. Cheaper and if you get the C4 version, it has tons of filtration. If you literally broke, just use cheap pump and overhang box. Or better still, DIY like this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hL271pKi_qY

Don't sacrifice filter or not using a filter in the setup. As a good aquarium need a good filtration and water movement to facilitate bacteria growth and gas exchange/diffusion of Co2 and O2. Don't believe any videos that showcase aquarium without a filter. Also, the filter can act as a vacuum pump for mosquito larvae, a problem in Malaysia that Aedes mosquito like to breed in fresh, clear and clean water. A stagnating water is good breeding ground for mosquito. Keep that in mind.


For lighting, get an LED lamp. Cheaper actually using LED as it uses less watt and less heat issue. Get the full spectrum 6500K version for freshwater. DONT get the blue spectrum LED. That lamp usually for a saltwater tank. I believe in Mid Valley shopping mall, there is an aquarium shop on the top floor. And it has tons of aquarium light selection. You can buy online if you like. But a bit cautious buying lamp from China, please ensure you get proper voltage and proper ballast. If you too afraid to dive into thousands of LED selection, I'm suggesting for you to get an Ikea lamp desk that has an E26 socket. And use LED bulb 6500K from Phillips. Hang it over the tank. Same thing, and you can change the bulb whenever you like. Also get a timer. I'm suggesting about 4 to 6 hours daily light. Don't over 12 hours. Trust me. Algae can grow much quicker than plants. More exposure of light means more algae can outgrow the plants. Also, most of those videos don't tell you this, but for the first few weeks, you cannot put fishes or shrimp in the tanks. The filter and the biodiversity still cannot support the additional load of fish. This is called nitrogen cycle: http://freshwater-aquarium-passion.blogspot.com/2010/10/nitrogen-cycle-for-dummies.html


That's where the API master kit is useful. You can test the water parameter until it is stable. Usually, it takes one week. If you have any more questions, feel free to join on https://np.reddit.com/r/PlantedTank/. Good luck.

Ooh! Ooh! This sounds fun. I put some time into this when I should have been working, so I hope it helps.

1) Pruners - $20.49

This will be your most used tool. Eventually, you can upgrade into Felcos or Bahcos, but right now just get these Coronas. They're honestly a better size for hobby gardeners (fit right in your pocket), and the're very high quality for the price.

2) Your First Gardening Book - $17.06

Gardening Without Work by Ruth Stout. It's simple and gives you a general plan that really does work very well. It's a must for beginning gardeners, imho. You can find just about any other information you need on the internet (for now). Very little maintenance required, including fertilizing, weeding, applying pesticides, etc. (In a nutshell, the main step involves putting down an 8" layer of mulch...).

If you want to go with a more traditional raised bed setup, you should buy Mel Bartholomew's Square Foot Gardening. It's a fantastic back yard gardening book, as well, but the methods are kind of pricey and less sustainable. Still, it's a great system for growing a lot of food in limited space and it was the first book I used.

3) Indestructible Garden Trowel - $15.99

This will be your second most used tool. This particular model is about as indestructible as it gets short of this bad boy. You'll use it for digging holes for transplanting, mostly. Don't buy a cheap one or it will bend or break or both.

4) Fertilizer - $7.83 + $11.06 = $24.26

I chose cottonseed meal because that's what Ruth Stout recommends using (the rest of the nutrients in her system come from the giant mounds of mulch). Apply as she indicates.

I also added some Fish Emulsion Liquid Fertilizer because I love the stuff. It's a great way to add some extra nitrogen (and just a little P & K) mid season to your veggies or even to your compost pile when it gets carbon heavy. The stuff I have right now stinks, but the plants love it and it's easy to apply if you have a watering can.

Make sure you tailor your fertilizer to whatever system you're using, though. Don't fertilize like Ruth if you're not using her mulch based system. If you're using Square Foot Gardening, you won't be fertilizing at all, but you will be using lots of peat, vermiculite, and (different kinds of) compost. Etc, etc, etc.

5) Work Gloves - $10.97

These are specifically for women, but there's a button to switch to men's if that's you. You won't wear them all the time, but you'll be happy you have them when you need them. Notice that this comes with 6 pairs of gloves. I misplace gloves all the time, so having several is handy (hehe).

__

Total: $88.77

__

Notes:

• Save the rest for now. You're inevitably going to become enamored with something like earthworm casings, azomite, or a nozzle for your gardening hose down the line. Your future self will thank you for having some extra cash to buy it with, and this is plenty to get you started on your way to being a badass backyard gardener.
  
  
• The two above methods claim to be mostly pest free. In my experience, nothing is pest free, and you just need to grow enough quantity to weather the storm when it does randomly come. I would just concentrate on growing healthy plants first and foremost and then let the chips fall where they may. You might turn to pesticides later, and that's fine, but hold off on buying any until you know what is nibbling on your plants. Most pesticides are specific to the pest.
  
  
• Notice that I don't include any seeds. Your first year of gardening, I'd honestly recommend just buying live plants from your local nursery (and sticking to plants bred to survive in your region). Growing from seed can be hard, and your entire crop of seedlings dying is a humbling experience, I can assure you.
  
  The other reason there are no seeds on my list is because I don't recommend buying them on Amazon. I've had bad experiences every time I've tried it. If you need seeds, go with a good seed dealer, like Johnny's Selected Seeds, Burpee, etc, or find a good nursery in your area.
  
  
• If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
  
  _____
  
  TL;DR: Pruners, a book to get you started, a durable trowel, fertilizer that is specific to your growing plan, and some gloves. Enjoy!

Fellow fan of series here! Let me see...

Young Adult
Percy Jackson series is fun (and finished, too, I think).
Artemis Fowl series isn't quite as good as Percy Jackson IMHO, but it's got a following.

Fantasy
Harry Dresden series This is one of my favorites. Harry is Chicago's only professional wizard. There are a ton of these books and they are still going strong.
Game of Thrones These are great...but unfinished. If you watch the show, reading the books does help you get even more out of the story, I think.
Wheel of Time Another good series. There is a LOT of this series and it's finished. (Thank you, Brandon Sanderson!)
Mistborn Speaking of Brandon Sanderson... This one is very good. I highly recommend reading the Mistborn books before trying the Stormlight Archive, but only because as good as Mistborn is, Stormlight Archive is even better.
Stormlight Archive Amazing. Man, these are good. The series isn't finished, but the two books that are available are some of my favorites ever.
Kingkiller Chronicles I loved the first book. I could not freakin' believe I enjoyed the second one even more. The third one is still pending.
Temeraire Dragons in Napoleonic times. Super cool premise! This one is not finished (I don't think, anyway).
Gentlemen Bastards Con men in a fantasy realm. It's pretty light on the fantasy elements. Very light, I'd say. I'd also say that it has some of the very best swearing that I've ever come across. :D

Scifi
Old Man's War I'm almost finished this one--it's amazing!

Horror/Thriller
Passage Trilogy I've heard these described as vampire books...maybe zombie books... It's apocalyptic for sure. Great books!

Mysteries
Amelia Peabody Egyptology + murder mysteries. Super fun, but trust me...go with the audiobooks for these. They are best when they are performed.
Stephanie Plum Total popcorn reads. If that's your thing, shut off your brain and just enjoy.
Walt Longmire These get particularly good as it goes along. The main character is a sheriff in modern day Wyoming. (Side note: The TV show is also great--just don't expect them to stick to the books.)

Graphic Novels (Everything recommended can be gotten in a "book" format instead of only in comic form, in case that matters. I've gotten most of these from my local library.)
Locke & Key Eerie as crap. Love the art! This one is on-going.
Y: The Last Man All the men on the planet drop dead in a day...except for Yorrick. REALLY good. This is the series that got me reading graphic novels. Plus, it's finished!
Walking Dead I am not a zombie fan...but I like these. They're not done, but I've read up through volume 22 and am still enjoying them.

Other
OutlanderI have no idea how to categorize these or even give a description that does them justice. I refused to pick it up for AGES because it sounded like a bodice-ripper romance and that's not my bag. But these are good!

I hope there's something in there that'll do for you. Have fun and read on!

Edit: Apparently, I need to practice formatting. :/
Edit 2: I forgot to add the Lies of Locke Lamora (Gentlemen Bastards #1).

Alright. Here's my 2 cents. Except it's probably gonna turn out to be 50 cents because I like to type, so bear with me.

1. Throw your preconceptions about crate training OUT the window. Especially with a velcro breed like a German shepherd, crate training will be your best friend and key tool. If you need the dog to not be up your ass for a little while (which it will, I guarantee you, that's shepherds for ya), you'll need a place to put it. Since it takes time to train a long down-stay, a crate is your best bet. Proper crate training teaches the dog that the crate is a safe, cozy place for the dog to relax and chew a bone or take a nap or just chill. So find some books or online articles and read up on how to do it because it's great. Seriously. I promise you, when done right, it is absolutely not cruel whatsoever. This article is a good place to start.
   
   
2. Again, read up on it. I haven't had many experiences introducing cats and dogs, so I can't give you my own anecdotal advice, but like with anything else take it slow and keep it positive. Reward the dog for calm behavior around the cats and if s/he tries to chase them, give a time-out or separate them for a while. The cats are the real wild cards here, because if they have not been socialized to dogs then they are of course liable to get angry at the dog. If the dog hasn't been socialized to cats then the dog will perceive the anger as excitement and may try to play or fight, depending on the dog. So try to keep the cats calm and give them plenty of spaces to escape to; if they like to climb, get them a tower or a shelf that's all theirs, for example.
   
   
3. Nah, not necessarily. Every dog has different toy preferences so if you get a bunch now you may find that your dog isn't even interested in half of them. I would say wait until you get the dog and then go to a pet store together and figure out what it likes then. However, one thing that is useful for almost every dog is a Kong or two (or three...). If you want to start stocking something now, I would strongly suggest putting a little money away per week/month/pay period in a savings account so you have some financial cushion if the dog suddenly needs expensive vet care. Or just for general expenses for the dog. Because they are expensive.
   
   
4. Bones are fine. Make sure they are raw, because cooked bones can splinter and cause damage. My person lrule is that if they are small enough to swallow or soft enough to break down into swallowable pieces, they don't get them while unsupervised. Also be careful with super hard things like antlers at first. I've never experienced this, but apparently some dogs have softer teeth than others and can break their teeth on antler chews. Antlers are great for puppies who are chewing maniacs but again, just supervise them at first. Rawhides are also hit or miss; many people give them to their dogs without issue but ingested rawhide can sometimes swell up from moisture and cause intestinal blockages. Apparently. Most people agree that it's unsafe to give rawhide to puppies.
   
   
5. Positive reinforcement trainer. Don't settle for anything else. Look for a trainer who is a certified behaviorist (will have a master's or PhD), has an animal behavior degree, has credentials through the Association of Pet Dog Trainers or the Karen Pryor Academy (there are a few others but those are the most common), and/or a combination of two or more of those things. You can search for one here or here. And here is a worst-case scenario story of what can happen when a dog that just has a few bad manners gets "trained" abusively and irresponsibly.
   
   
6. Hmm. I have no idea what a fourteener is, but I'll give this one a shot. Hiking, in my experience, is not too strenuous exercise for a dog. If you were running the dog really hard in a game of fetch or taking him/her on a jog without giving it breaks, that would be one thing. But leisurely hikes, where the dog can slow down or speed up or stop and sniff at its own pace, should be just fine. What I like to do with our dog is put her on a 20'+ leash and just let her drag that so we don't have to hold a leash and she can run ahead and then wait for us, which she likes to do. She sticks pretty close (she's a shepherd too), but a recent rescue may not do the same. I would recommend, if you do the long leash method, clipping it to your belt/loop with a carabiner. That way, dog gets to run ahead or lag behind, but can't run off. ...Aaand I got sidetracked. Watch for signs of tiredness: excessive panting, lagging behind, stopping and sitting/lying down, low head and slow movement, etc. Just make sure to at first give doggie lots of breaks (and offer water every break!) and work up to longer hikes.
   
   
7. Depends on what your dog is interested in. Some dogs just want to run and chase a ball, and only that will tire them. Other dogs will be entertained by a few training sessions or a game of Find the Treat/Toy. Others are more relaxed/lazy and will be content lying around the house with you. That's probably not the case for many German shepherds, but if the dog is older it may be. I like to feed our dog with a food ball or puzzle toy, because it takes her longer to eat and is more interactive and entertaining than her just guzzling her food out of a bowl. I will also give her a stuffed and frozen Kong (usually it has food and/or treats and some peanut butter) if she is especially bored and I don't have time to play with her or walk her. I suggest teaching your dog lots of fun tricks because s/he will pick them up quickly and then you can have them do the tricks if they're bored. :)
   
   Other tips, even though this is getting ridiculously long - Read! Educate yourself! Explore as many possible resources as you can to find what is right for you and your dog! Here are some good ones:
   
   

• Whole Dog Journal (website/periodical)
  
  
• The Other End of the Leash (book)
  
  
• The Culture Clash (book)
  
  
• Clickertraining.com
  
  
• Dogmantics.com, and her YouTube channel
  
  Damn. Sorry that is so long. If you somehow have any other questions after all that, I'd be glad to answer them. I have had many, many family dogs, currently share a beloved whiny baby German shepherd with my boyfriend, am pursuing a BS in animal behavior, and work at a positive reinforcement dog training facility. So I am a fountain of fun facts just waiting to be asked questions!

There is a lot of crap erotica out there, for sure. Finding good ones are hit or miss.

I tried a regency romance once. Super cheesy and cliche. Not for me.

I like Literotica because there are lots of stories to browse. There good stories and there are a lot of bad stories. Sometimes I will open a story, read a paragraph or two, and go right back to searching for a new one.

I've been trying to find good erotica books and series. Every other book is a Shades of grey clone. There are times in most of them where I end up rolling my eyes at some of the dialogue and descriptions. Sometimes, I will skip over parts if I'm just not into it.

A lot of erotica on Amazon for the kindle is free. It will often be the first book in a series to try to convince you to continue reading the rest. I read lots of these free ones and if I like the author/style then I will consider reading more. I haven't found any I like enough yet but I keep trying. Sometimes I can read enough of a bad erotica to do the trick. There are definitely some that I just quit reading.

Not erotica but I will also /r/gonewildstories. Nothing like stories that can actually happen.

The best erotica I have read is the Sleeping Beauty Trilogy by A. N. Roquelaure, which is a pseudonym for for Anne Rice. But be warned, this is very, very heavy BDSM. It might be too much for many and at times it was a little heavy for me and I consider myself to be relatively kinky.

The best romance novel I have read was Outlander by Diana Gabaldon. It is a time-travel, historical romance to be exact. From what I remember it was actually a pretty good read. If you are going to read a romance, I think this is a good one to start with.

Though not erotica, Kushiel's Dart by Jacqueline Carey is a fantasy novel with some romance/erotic elements. I read it several years ago before my libido bottomed out but I'm pretty sure it turned me on. Interesting read as well. Definitely has a theme of sado-masochism, but compared to the Sleeping Beauty Trilogy it is nothing. If you already enjoy fantasy novels you should give it a go.

Hope that helps. You really have to dig to find anything good. That being said, often the act of searching alone is enough to get my engines revving.

Hmm well I'll see what I can answer since I actually have an A. avic. As for as getting one, if you can't find one at a pet store you can order online. Avics are more common so you shouldn't have any trouble. The list in sidebar, under Popular Threads, of Tarantula Suppliers is still good. If you still feel ill at ease about any of the suppliers listed go check out their facebook pages. Many of them do have them and update them regularly. See most suppliers didn't get into selling Ts for money. You aren't going to make much. They sell them because they just love tarantulas so you don't run across many bad stories about suppliers. Not saying they aren't out they just I don't see or hear anything really other than good things about them.

Now the question is should you get an Avic. Rose Hairs are more common for a reason. They are the beginner's beginner tarantula. They are easier to keep and handle if you're going to do that. Avics while not super hard to care for are harder and they can be flighty. I don't know how you plan to have your students interact with it but that's a big point to consider especially considering whatever level of experience you have with tarantulas.

As for webbing, that's up to the tarantula. If they're in a good environment I think they are more likely to web. Mine was perviously owned and never webbed for them. She was in a set up for a terrestrial enclosure though. It wasn't long after she was in a proper arboreal set up she webbed a lot. Stress also can affect them so you'll have to make sure the kids know what they can and cannot do. They are partly responsible for the life of another living creature and it's their job to give it them best possible life. As as far as interesting to watch, sure my girl moves but only at certain times during the day. The rest of the day she's dead still. That's still more than a Rose Hair but just wanted to let you know it's not going to be moving all the time or anything. The most interest is when their fed.

Now, in the mean time I recommend getting the Tarantula Keeper's Guide. It's considered pretty much the tarantula bible by enthusiasts. Read it and teach your kids about it before you make the step to actually get a Tarantula. There's nothing like seeing and learning about something in person but it will help greatly when you do make that step. Maybe even make a few lessons about them from information in the book. Or games. That way your future T will be that much happier and healthier for it and your kids will get the most out of it too. I hope that helps! I do hope you are able to get one and love that your even willing to do this. I'm sure this entire subreddit, myself included, would be willing to answer any more questions you may have or just help in whatever way we can with teaching your kids more about our favorite arachnids :)

P.S. you should also consider how long any T you want to get will live. Females will naturally live many years long than males. 10 years or more is not an uncommon lifespan for a female tarantula. Just something to keep in mind since it's longterm care will ultimately fall on you.

Apologies if I repeat things mentioned elsewhere. I'm looking at a sleeping, year old lab/border collie mix, so I still have a lot of this info fresh.

• I can't recommend The Art of Raising a Puppy (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/0316083275/) enough. Lots of good information in there and a ton of things you don't think about.
  
  
• Socialize the crap out of your puppy! People, dogs, puppies, kids, etc. Look for free and/or cheap puppy play times and go to them. Your pup needs to meet something like 50 to 200 other dogs in the first 16 weeks, might be way more.
  
  
• Not specifically called out in socializing, but exposure to all kinds of things. As mentioned, kids, other dogs, walk near play grounds, loud traffic, crowds, airports, etc. Yes, you will have to deal with "Oh my god! Can I please let your puppy?" And you are within your right to say "I'm sorry, but no." Be polite, but stern. Make sure your puppy sees people in all sorts of outfits. Coats, hats, etc. You don't want your dog to be afraid of things that are normal* things.
  
  
• Work on a meal/potty schedule! This will make sure accidents, which will happen, are less frequent. This is highly dependent on your schedule. Make sure you allow enough time for elimination after feeding.
  
  
• Crate training is amazing. You can verify that your pup won't get into things when you can't watch them. It also gives your dog a place that they can go when they just want to chill out. My dog is in his teenager phase and goes to his to listen to loud music and play guitar... ;)
  
  
• Finding a good trainer/class and sticking with it! We learned a lot from the 2x 6 week classes we took, and are actually looking to take some others. Click training is also nice.
  
  
• Patience. Puppies are going to pup. Let them learn. You don't need to be a helicopter parent, which you likely will be the first couple off-leash park trips. Just walk away, take a deep breath, remember you're training your future best friend and companion.
  
  Love the crap out of your dog! You are looking at a year and change that will not only define your dog for the rest of their life, but will be the hardest part of raising a dog. I've wanted to ring his little neck more times than I care to mention, but goddamn I love this dog and I'm pretty sure he likes me.
  
  Sorry for the wall of text. I typically lurk, but having gone (still going) through this, it's good to take a second and think about what worked, and what didn't.
  
  Good luck and I wish you both the best!

After years and years of wanting a dog, I adopted a dog... who promptly turned around and greatly preferred my boyfriend, who is a cat person and generally is ambivalent about dogs. It sucked. After owning him for ~11 months, my dog prefers me now but it was an uphill battle.

Some tips:

• If feeling loved is important to you, get a friendly, outgoing dog who loves everyone like a lab or a golden. My dog is generally aloof. I know he likes me because when given a choice, he'll follow me around rather than my boyfriend. But he still follows me into a room and lies down in a corner, rather than wanting to be super close to me. He doesn't love being petted, but tolerates it. He will leave after 30 seconds to a minute of petting. It's not because he dislikes me but he doesn't like petting. A typical lab, on the other hand, will lean against you and accept petting forever.
  
• Don't get a velcro dog who prefers one person but is aloof to strangers... something like a German Shepherd would fit this. Could the dog pick you as his person? Sure. But he also could pick your SO, which would be a bummer.
  
• Read more about dogs. Here's a list of books. The Other End of the Leash would be a good place to start. I thought I knew a TON about dogs before getting one but was definitely wrong. Especially some of your terminology in those post - it doesn't seem to line up with current research and thinking about dogs. Do you know about canine body language like calming signals? Learning more about that will help you bond better with your next dog. Some dogs put up with corrections just fine but you need to learn how to read your dog before you make that decision. My dog, for example, when I said "no" after he walked around the hoop instead of jumping through it, just refused to try again for a while. He's a very sensitive dog and needs a light touch. He's not a very expressive dog, either, but with the help of a more experienced trainer, I learned how to read his subtle signals and stop pushing him too far when he's stressed.
  
• Training classes and daily training helped me bond with my dog a LOT. It's the interaction he looks forward to every day and what helped tipped the scale in favor of me over my boyfriend. It works their brain, which keeps them happy, and having a well trained dog will make you happy.
  
  Even after all of that... your dog might take a long time to come around, and might never be the ideal loyal companion. Mine certainly isn't, but I've found ways to appreciate his personality. It has helped me bond with him a lot more. For months I was comparing him to my ideal dog and it really hurt both of us. I'd say ask a LOT of questions of the foster, vet the rescue organization well, and see if you can have a trial period with the dog. My foster was inexperienced with dogs and read Finn's personality all wrong.

Okay, I'm replying in a second comment, because I wanna make sure you get to see it. I'll add an edit to the main comment too, in case anyone wants to look up information.

Books:

• Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms, Paul Stamets
  
• The Mushroom Cultivator, Paul Stamets
  
  Those are the standard grow manuals, but if anyone has a suggestion for a more comprehensive or up-to-date manual, it'd be welcome. Mycelium Running is a great book if you're just looking for a fun read about mushrooms.
  
  Websites:
  
  
• /r/mycology - The subreddit devoted to mushroom growing and identification. Probably more relevant info here if you're interested in growing mostly edibles.
  
  
• Fungi Perfecti is good for equipment (I bought all my HEPA filters there, at the time they were the cheapest around). I think they have a YouTube channel too, and that's got some interesting stuff on it.
  
  
• Shroomery.org is a moderately famous mushroom growing forum, with a bit of a bent more toward psychedelics. However, I found tons of great people and information in the edible mushroom forum, and I received a few commerical grade cultures from a very generous member. There can be a bit of a circlejerk surrounding some "celebrities" that post there, but take what they say with a grain of salt, and always fact check against your grow manual. If you see something that looks stupid, it probably is, unless it works. Edit: I don't think Reddit likes linking to the Shroomery, removed the formatting.
  
  Videos:
  
  
• TED Talks: Paul Stamets - Six Ways Mushrooms Can Save The World - This is basically his "standard" speech he gives when he does talks. There have probably been additions and improvements to it, but the message hasn't really changed. This is "Mycelium Running" in about 5 minutes. Watch this to decide whether you want to read that book.
  
  
• Let's Grow Mushrooms! by Roger Rabbit - One of the aforementioned Shroomery celebrities. His videos are helpful, but make sure to fact check why you're doing stuff, because he tends to leave a lot of that out. This is very nuts and bolts demonstrations of how to prepare substrate, how to provide humidity at a low cost, and several different methods of growing for different species of mushrooms.
  
  I hope that helps, friend! Good luck, and if you get something going, please send me pictures! I miss the old days!

These are some of my favorites:

• Crockett's Victory Garden - There are also versions for flowers and lawns as well as the main garden one. It's organized by month and has lots of special chapters on different skills or tools or general information.
  
  
• Square Foot Gardening - It's written as a persuasive piece, but it's got good information on all different kinds of vegetables and explains the square foot method. Even if you don't use the method itself, the ideas in general can be useful.
  
  
• Backyard Herb Garden - This is an older book, but it's got a lot of helpful specific information on different herbs and ideas for growing them.
  
  
• Kitchen Garden for Beginners - It's not a perfect book, but I think it did a great job giving an overview of different gardening methods, plants and issues you might face.
  
  
• Vertical Gardening - This one is more specific, but all the trellis designs were fun and very helpful.
  
  
• Storey Country Wisdom Bulletins - These are nice little pamphlets ($4 on Amazon) on different plants (ie. tomatoes, peppers, strawberries) or topics (ie. fixing your soil or building a fence) that are pretty useful for gardening. Also they had some ideas that were new to me.
  
  
• Garden Primer - This one is also a good overview. And seems to be popular it covers general garden topics and has information about specific vegetables.
  
  
• The New Self Sufficient Gardener - It's got a lot of good general information, awesome illustrations, background explanation and information on specific vegetables.
  
  In terms of location specific information, as someone who recently moved half way across the country, your best off looking up the Extension website for where your living to find information on suggested varieties, new pests you might encounter, soil types and things like that.

There are so many and with many different focal points. I also think a list with some identification as to the focal points for each book would be useful. And I'm always happy to find new good ones, so I am glad for this post.

Rodales is one that I've seen mentioned a ton elsewhere, and I have found it useful too. There is some lore and some preparation and growing information along with medicinal info..

If you are looking for experience logs concerning herb usage, Susun Weed's forum is a nice place to search. The accounts are not made by medical professionals and perhaps are not studies based, but they are from people who test and use herbs on themselves. A very female bent; however, I've not seen a male treated anything but nicely there.

Cunningham's is a good magical go-to based in some lore, but can be problematic sometimes as dangers are not always noted. And the lore can be difficult to track down; though I was surprised that some of it had uses that I was already familiar with from childhood. Many websites about magical correspondences are word-for-word taken from it. It's Llewellyn, but don't let that scare you. I doubt there is an apothecary in existence that doesn't have a copy somewhere.

Miller's Magical and Ritual Use of Herbs was one I acquired years ago when starting the magic/psychoactive hunt. It includes some methods for preparation though the herbs included are limited. I think going to a forum or sub here that is dedicated to psychoactives would probably be more useful for preparation guides, but they may lack the ritual component.

For identification and growing and a tiny bit of lore too, I found Angier's Field Guide to Medicinal Wild Plants to be very easy to use when I first started. It's not comprehensive and it is dependent on region, but I thought it was a charming read.

I think if you can find a field guide to wild plants that pertains to your geographical area, it would be better. That way you can get out and examine the plants yourself and see how they grow and interact with other plants and their environments. Much of what I have read about the magical properties of plants makes sense when I consider observations of the plants behaviors. Some of it is counter-intuitive too, but what makes a plant magical is sometimes going to be based in a lore you create on your own.

The Encyclopedia of Psychoactive Plants was a pricey thick one, but one I have found very useful for its purpose. I think it could be more inclusive, but I think the same thing could be said of every plant book published! If you can find one used, you may get it at a bargain. I bought mine for under 50$US but I have never seen it that cheap before or since. But this is not one that will be in every public library, so if you can afford it and spot it cheap, it may be worth the jump of you are into this kind of information. And of course the ever-loving Erowid is a great resource too.

These are just a few for beginning that I have used, but I have not used them in isolation. And there are several I have on a wish list too (this one has been rec'd to me, and omagah these have a savings account building over here). Websites have been excellent free resources especially to start. U.S. Wildflowers has a huge photo library and links to others if the geographical areas pertain to you. It's helped me get some basic identification of local plants many times.

For medicinal use and contra-indications that might feel safer, there are many hospitals that host pages of advice about herbal medicine and many of those link to studies. Since nothing here should be taken as medical advice, going to those resources may be very helpful. I have used too many to list.

And the same goes for growing guides. Websites are going to be quicker than books, but books may offer things like seasonal planting patterns and landscaping that a simple growing guide might not contain. There are too many of those to list as well.

Sorry for the length and I hope you get many more suggestions!

1. I would baby gate him in a dog/baby proof room. No carpet just in case he has an accident. No pillows or blankets in case he decides those look fun to destroy. Ask the foster family what their normal routine is for leaving him alone in the house.
   
   
2. Will depend on the dog. Mine was minimal because my dog had not interest in chewing things or getting himself in trouble. Some good things to do would be to ensure no access to garbage and recycling. If you have plants make sure he can't knock them over or eat them. You have children so just think about what you did when you baby proofed the home.
   
   
3. Fromm would be a good upgrade from Blue Buffalo. Fromm Gold specifically
   
   
4. I like Lupine Pet Products. I also really like rope style leashes and biothane. Biothane is water proof. I but a lot leashes and collars on Etsy.
   
   
5. I just lock my dog in there over night. However, he sleeps in his crate all day on his own. It is his safe spot. I would never ever stick my arm or hand in there to try and grab him. That is his personal space and I do not violate it. Make sure you teach your kids to always leave your dog alone when he is in his crate. If your dog has a good relationship with his crate he will retreat there to rest and relax on his own. It should always be available to him.
   
   
6. This book and a clicker. Super straight forward and fun. Don't buy too many toys to start. Buy a few different ones and see what your dog likes and that are safe to give him. I would also pick up some bully sticks
   
   
7. Don't overwhelm him with new experiences to start. Don't have visitors over for a couple weeks. Limit his exposure to new things. Take him out for walks but don't bring him to the pet store until you guys can build a relationship together.
   
   
8. I would be careful with hugging, grabbing collar, kissing the dog's head and just being too affection. Humans are primates and dogs are canines and each species has different ways of communicating. Hugging and face-to- face contact is the way to communicate if you are a primate but not if you are canine. It is scary and can be threatening to a dog. Patricia McConnell has a great book on this subject.
   
   
9. Look into the two week shutdown. Do not feel the need to rush him to the dog park or your kids soccer games in an effort to socialize him. He has probably had a lot of changes in his short life so just take it slow. Once he is settled in a month or two look into doing a pet obedience class at a training club. It is a great way to learn more about dogs, get your kids involved in dog training and get your dog out the house for some fun. You will also learn the basics for having a well behaved dog.
   
   
10. I'd take him in a month or two unless the adoption contract requires to take him in sooner.

Kritter keepers aren't ideal, but they also aren't bad, 5 of my Ts are in them. They won't kill your T, but there are better options.

The three I always recommend are the A. avicularia, the G. rosea, and the B. smithi. All three have great characteristics. The price point is good, they're fairly docile, and they're fairly hardy.

The avic is more finicky about its environment, the smithi is prone to kicking hairs, and some rosies can be temperament, but that's really each one's only flaw. All three look great, are readily available, and are pretty easy to care for. I have all three, they're still some of my favorite Ts.

I also always recommend picking up the tarantula keepers guide. Read through it, is super interesting and has everything you'll need to know to care for your new spider friend

Don't just look at power tools.

Put some money into good hand tools. They can be faster and better than power tools. Really.

Power tools can take a lot of setup and test cuts. You can often go to hand tools and get the same work done in less time with better results. I'll take a chisel over a mortiser any day.

For a basic set of hand tools, I'd look for a block plane, a #4 and a #7. There are lots more, but those are the ones you'll use the most. Get a set of chisels and a mallet, too. Look into scrapers for finishing, too. Scraping is better than sanding - it gives a finer finish. I buy my hand tools from Lie-Nielsen. Not the cheapest, but they're incredibly well made and we have put them to the test. They hold up and I don't think I'll ever wear one out.

You'll probably want some power tools for large, ripping operations. You wouldn't want to cut a sheet of plywood by hand.

In the US, most use a tablesaw as a primary tool. In Europe, a bandsaw is more popular. It's great to have both, if possible. You'll also want a drill press - those are hugely useful for many tasks.

Also, I'd recommend picking up Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking and learning how to make all of the traditional joints. Those are far, far better than using pocket jigs with screws and other half-measures. There's a good reason why these joints have been used for hundreds of years. They're not necessarily difficult or take more time, so learn them and use them.

Next, pick up The Power of Limits and learn about getting proportions correct. If you want professional-looking results, you need to use Phi (or the ratio of 1:1.618) in your designs. If you're not familiar with Phi, read this book and search around the Internet for more information on it and sacred geometry.

That might sound far out and unrelated to woodwork, but it'll be a head trip when you discover that your body - and pretty much every living thing - is laid out with these ratios. You'll also find them in most professional objects when you measure them. People have been using Phi in design for a long time. You should, too.

Finally, pick up a book on wood finishing. This one is good. I tend to work with penetrating oils, like tung oil and boiled linseed oil. Those produce superb results.

Again, great questions. Here's a video I did on hugelkultur a bit ago. I don't recommend going to my website at the moment though because it's been recently hacked and I'm working on cleaning it up. The youtube video will be fine though. Check out that video, if you have more questions, feel free to ask.

You can do the flat raised bed idea, and I did the same last year, but I believe you will get more benefit from doing the piqued hills.

Grey water collection and rainwater harvesting are excellent ideas. I don't know if you could make use of it, but here is a super cool idea for a ram pump which requires no external input other than elevation change. Other than that, I don't know much about water tanks.

One really cool thing I've seen used is where people dig a trench under their garden and bury weeping tile in that trench which snakes around their garden. Then they connect that weeping tile to their downspout from there gutters and when it rains, they get a massive deep soak in their garden.

Swales are a fantastic thing to think about as they will help keep water on your land. Swales mixed with heavy mulching are a huge force in keeping your land irrigated. Check out greening the desert for more on that.

As for the PDC, you don't even have to pay for it. I googled free online PDC and found this.

http://www.permaculturedesigntraining.com/

If you want to learn more about it, there are amazing books which can help.

Gaia's Garden and Sepp Holzer's Permaculture

That's awesome that your SO is taking that course. She'll probably learn some really cool sustainable farming things.

Also, check out http://www.permies.com. There's tons of info there, and super amazing people who are very helpful.

I've got a few suggestions actually! Some are exactly like you describe, non-fiction but presented as a novel. Others incorporate accurate history, but the main characters are fictional.

First,Follow the River. This one is a true story presented as a novel. Great read, it's one of the first books that inspired my interest in what's actually edible in the wild.

Centennial is another great read. Pretty much any Michner is. You do have to get past the first few chapters though. He likes to start his books with a history of the area, which he goes all the way back to the crust of the earth cooling. Once you get past that though, he takes you through the history through the eyes of multiple people through generations. The people are fictional, but the history he covers is the real deal. For instance, did you know that camelids originated in what we call Alaska now?

Outlander by Diana Gabaldon. I think they've made a T.V. show from this one. It has science fiction/fantasy tones to it as it involves time travel, but the coverage of the history is accurate and fascinating. And told from the perspective of someone who was born and raised in WWII era.

And finally, let's go WAY back. Clan of the Cave Bear. The first three books in this series are fantastic. I wouldn't bother going further though. The author traveled to all sorts of digs and painted caves and the picture she brings to life of pre-history is wonderful. Bit of a Mary Sue as a main character, but I happen to like Mary Sues. =) AVOID THE MOVIE! I like a lot of book to movies, understand that they need leeway. They ruined this book on screen.

I can probably come up with a few more if you're interested at all. Reading is a bit of my hobby.

Well, I'd caution first time dog owners against adopting a stray off the street rather than through a rescue that has evaluated it. If its a puppy its one thing, but older dogs who have been strays or ferals for a while can come with some challenges. If nothing else, do try to rescue the pup and contact local rescues (especially if you can guess the breed and find a breed rescue) as puppies get adopted pretty fast. If you do choose to keep the pup yourself, search for a local trainer using the terms "Positive only," "positive reinforcement" and "clicker training" to local a positive-based trainer. Avoid trainers who advertise "balanced," "traditional," or talk about "dominance", "pack leader", or "alpha."

There are a ton of wonderful resources out there, and here are some very worthwhile books to look into

Before And After Getting Your Puppy

Puppy Primer

Power of Positive Dog Training

Family Friendly Dog Training

And specifically addressing house training -
Way to Go!

Anything by the following authors (who also have online articles) is pure gold:

Patricia McConnell

Pat Miller

Ian Dunbar

Suzanne Clothier

Grisha Stewart

Pia Silvani

Jean Donaldson

Sophia Yin

Also check our Dr. Yin's amazing series of youtube videos

And for general training (as in obedience and tricks) Kikopup is phenomenal.

I've worked in rescue for years and I foster harder dogs. If you every need any advice or questions answered you are welcome to contact me individually as well :-)

-There are many great beginner species. Most popular and the cheapest is a Grammostola rosea, or chilean rose hair. Brachypelma species are some of my favorites, and Brachypelma smithi are one of the most well known. They are your iconic Mexican red knee that you think of when someone brings up tarantulas. With this being your first T, you I'd recommend either of those, and you'd be just fine.

-You can check local pet stores and that would be fastest, but stay away from big chain stores such as petsmart or petco since they usually don't care for their animals properly. Try to find the smaller unique shops that really specialize in their exotic section.

-Bedding and housing is very simple. Both of the species I listed above are very hardy and don't need much. A proper amount of substrate (coconut fiber would work great for you), a good water dish, and a hide i s all they need to be happy. The rest of the setup is up to you for aesthetics, as long as you keep their home safe for the T. Check out the links on the sidebar for more information

They are very easy pets to maintain, and you won't regret buying them. They are fascinating to watch them grow as you learn more about them. A great source of knowledge that can answer just about any question you have is The Tarantula Keeper's Guide. This is a must have for any hobbyist, beginner or experienced, and I highly recommend picking up a copy. If you have the time and patience, buy it before you get a spider and read through it all the way. You'll learn so many things to help you in the future. Good luck!

One of the biggest mistakes I see is trying to use too small of plane for the job. The bigger the boards, the bigger the plane.

Most people use a #4 Smooth plane as their starter plane. It's a good overall plane, but if you're trying to get something large flat it's workable but not great.

I usually use a #5 Jack or #7 Jointer plane. I've also replaced most of my irons and chipbreakers with Hocks. This is not a route to take if you don't find hand planing to be a "religious" experience.

Most people think that Hand tools are the "Cheap" way to do it. You can get a cheap #4 hand plane and it will work, but a good quality hand plane will be much more expensive new. See if you can find a Stanley Bailey #4 for a much better plane at a reasonable price. If you find you absolutely love hand planing, I've heard good things about Veritas and using my instructor's bronze Lie Nieson was an amazing experience.

Used planes are hit-and-miss if you don't know what you're looking for. Lots of them are in pretty poor shape, and then you're competing with collectors who want them for decoration. Stanley #4 planes are pretty common on the used market and pretty cheap but anything else gets harder to find quickly (except for Ebay, but then you can't inspect it yourself before buying so it's a gamble). I've found a couple of #5's in decent shape, and I'll occasionally run into something else, but usually too expensive or not in good shape.

Note that you could probably find a decent 4" bench power jointer on craigslist in most areas for less than $100 (usually Craftsman)

If you want to learn how to do lots of traditional woodworking stuff, I'd recommend picking up a copy of Tage Fried Teaches Woodworking. I'm pretty sure he covers planing stock, including winding sticks in there.

I would start with finding some local basic obedience or puppy classes. These are a fantastic place to start for a new dog owner. PetSmart and Petco classes are ok, but honestly their trainers aren't terribly experienced and while you could get a gem, you could also get a trainer than knows nothing.

Instead, try to find a trainer that is positive reinforcement based (sometimes trainers will advertise as "positive based" or "least adversive" or many other things - basically, instead of always punishing the dog, they're rewarding the dog for doing good things which is a much better system of dog training) and take some classes from them.

From that, you can get into dog sport classes. I personally, because of my location, actually do a lot of dog training classes online. Particularly through Fenzi Dog Sports Academy. They do have some disc dog classes occasionally, but also they have agility, nosework, obedience, and many other classes as well.

But certainly start with a basic obedience class as that will be a great foundation. If you need help with figuring out if a trainer might be good, try coming over to /r/dogs and asking there.

Oh, and if you're up for it, a fantastic book that I would recommend is "The Other End of the Leash" which is great in teaching people how dogs think and learn.

First of all congratulations on having a dog! Obviously you are a concerned owner and eager to learn and this is a great thing!

Everything you written about her being confused, refusing food, even not going up the stairs is probably due to the fact that she was taken out of her everyday environment. Allow a couple of days for her to get used to you and for you to get used to her. Read about training through positive reinforcement (use the clicker for best results). I strongly recommend reading Pat Miller's The Power of Positive Dog Training as it leads you through the process of teaching your new dog new commands from week to week. Before actually using the clicker, read about it or watch a must see playlist by kikopup.

The easiest way to train your dog is to use food as a reward and lure. Combined with a clicker to mark the exact moment when your dog did the right thing leads to great (and very fast) results!

And now to your specific questions and some other stuff I think is related and important:

Crate training should be done gradually and in a very positive way (refer to kikopup or the book I've mentioned). You will basically teach her to want to go there on her own as a safe place where she can take a time out and relax. If she hasn't been crated in her previous home, she might not take it to well. Be sure to leave the gate open and start working on closing the gate and leaving the room gradually. This means that in the beginning you reward her for going near the crate. Then throw a treat inside the crate. Then reward her for staying in the crate and so on. As with everything else in dog training it is better to put lower expectations on your dog so you "set your dog up for success".

Stairs: she maybe never encountered stairs. If the vet said she's healthy I'd say she just needs to get used to them. In case the stairs are "see through" (like these for example) many dogs won't go up them because they probably think they'll fall through them. As generally dogs don't like to be carried around, she won't get used to you carrying her up and down the stairs in the beginning. After a few days try luring her with treats (holding a treat in hand in front of her nose and slowly moving it forward) the instant she follows your hand - give her the treat. And then repeat for every step. You can also put treats on stairs to motivate her to come up. You'll have to see what works best.

Food/treats: you should see what is the recommended daily amount of food for your dog. Take one half of that and use it as treats and the other two quarters use as morning and evening meal. You should remember that treats shouldn't be an extra on top of dogs food for the day. In that way the dog will be food motivated and eager to please you in order to get the treat.

Establishing dominance. I'm not in favour of people downvoting a post whenever someone says "dominance". It is an old concept, but all of dog training up until recently was based on it so it is very normal that people who are not into dog training still think that this is the way to go. I'm sure you can read about the theory (sidebar) and why is it wrong. As long as you don't use any painful or intimidating methods and respect your dog's boundaries and body signals you can call it whatever you like (but preferably don't call it dominance so as not to confuse people :P ). If you don't want your dog sleeping in the bed with you - teach him where should she sleep. But if you're ok with the dog sleeping on the bed but you're afraid she will turn out into a dominant werewolf if you allow her - you have nothing to worry about.


Good luck!

I am going to suggest a book for you. Most of the folks on here do something called a NPT (Naturally Planted Tank) or Walstad tank. Lots of plants and garden soil or organic potting soil as the substrate capped with Flourite substrate. That makes keeping plants much easier. I would recommend a book to you: Diana Walstad: The Ecology of the Planted Aquarium. That should help you out greatly when it comes to getting your tank up and running.

Some cavets. Even she has backed down on saying that you can immediately add in fish. Still wait for your tank to cycle and do a fishless cycle to get it started. You can put plants in right away and they will help complete the cycle quicker. Also, when they say heavily planted, they mean HEAVILY planted with very little space.

I do more of a true Walstad than most. 20G with 3" of substrate (1.5 of potting soil and 1.5 of flourite cap)and very thickly planted. A true Walstad wouldn't use a filter and would just use a pump, but I like having my Marineland 360 canister. I just have ceramic filters in there, no sponges or anything like that however. I HIGHLY recommend canister filters over HoB (Hang on Back) units. Totally silent and they provide great flow. I have a sprinkler bar so I get nice even flow around the tank. Water movement is very important.

You will want good lights. Don't cheap out and expect to pay something for them. I would say go LED as they are by far cheaper in the long run. T5 after that but remember you have to replace T5 bulbs.

Hope that helps. The sidebar is useful, as are sites like this. Try to ask specific questions and you will get better answers. You will need to get testing kits. The API ones are okay for a simple freshwater planted aquarium. Start with Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and PH. Test your tap water first to get base values. If you have Ammonia or Nitrate in your tap water, you will want to invest in a RODI system and additives to put minerals back in it. Ask your LFS about those.

I hope that helps!

Hi, well done for reaching out for help! sounds like a handful of a pup, and in a difficult situation too...

Ok, how much of the time are you at home? If you are with her most of the time, then I'd recommend you keep the dog leashed to you most of the time, and start the Learn to Earn program.
https://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/the-learn-to-earn-program-implementing-the-program/

It's a pain having the dog leashed to you all the time, BUT it really pays off in terms of teaching the dog to automatically sit and control its impulses to 'bad' behaviour. Once the dog sits automatically for you then you can get it to do the same for other people in the house, and then for visitors. Oh, one trick when you have the dog on leash and are worried it might jump: stand on the leash (be sure to leave enough slack for the dog to be able to stand and sit, but not enough for it to jump up). To avoid pup nipping your hands, cross your arms with one hand on each shoulder and 'pretend to be a tree'. Generally, you want to try to wear clothes, shoes etc which don't encourage the nipping (e.g. avoid shoe laces and clothes with loose sleeves or ties).

It sounds like you will need to start from scratch with crate training and GO SLOW - when you shut the door, do it for only a second, then open and reward. And GRADUALLY increase the time the door is shut with you in the room. And then get the dog used to you being out of the room, at first coming straight back, then GRADUALLY increasing the amount of time you are out of the room.
https://www.reddit.com/r/puppy101/wiki/index#wiki_crate_training

Or, think about whether you can use baby-gates or set up a play pen for the pup in an area of the house where she can see you and be part of the family (many dogs adjust better to this than to crates, and it sounds like your dog may already have developed an aversion to being shut in the crate.)

There's lots of good advice on the r/Puppy101 wiki https://www.reddit.com/r/puppy101/wiki/
and the r/dogtraining wiki:https://www.reddit.com/r/Dogtraining/wiki/index

Alternatively, If you don't already have a puppy book, Sophia Yin's Perfect Puppy in 7 days is a GREAT guide https://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Puppy-Days-Start-Right/dp/0964151871 - and
This book will also be helpful: https://www.amazon.com/Behave-Behaves-Revised-Updated-Editon-ebook

Sounds like you will need to train some humans too... remember humans (like dogs) respond better to positive reinforcement, so be sure to notice and thank them when they do things like you've asked (even if you need to grit your teeth when they do things differently!)

Edited to add: when you have visitors, - for now stay with the dog in another room and use it as crate training time. You will have to be anti-social for a few weeks while you work on this, but it's worth it in the long run.

For (currently) free Kindle books, David Weber's On Basilisk Station is the first book in the space-opera Honor Harrington series. The second book The Honor of the Queen, is one of my favorites in the entire series. Eric Flint's 1632 turned into a massive and awesome alternate-history series. If you'd like to delve into Alaskan-based murder mysteries, give Dana Stabenow's A Cold Day For Murder a try as the first in the some eighteen book Kate Shugak series.

For paid Kindle books, there's Hugh Howey's Wool Omnibus is the beginning of the dystopian Silo series; the followup Shift Omnibus is actually a prequel trilogy that I haven't gotten yet but is very readable. Naomi Novik's first novel in the alt-history Temeraire series, His Majesty's Dragon, is currently $.99.

In print, Elizabeth Moon's military fantasy The Deed of Paksenarrion is available used for a very affordable price and is an epic series. The Cage was my introduction to a fantasy universe written by SM Stirling, Shirley Meier, and Karen Wehrstein. Diana Gabaldon's Outlander is a sort of alternate history/light romance series set in Scotland that I've thoroughly enjoyed. Brent Weeks' assassin-based (excuse me, wetboy) fantasy Night Angel Trilogy was recently released as an omnibus edition. Empire from the Ashes collects Weber's Dahak sci-fi trilogy into an omnibus edition. Weber and John Ringo co-wrote March Upcountry and the other three novels in the sci-fi Prince Roger quadrilogy. If you haven't tried Harry Turtledove's alt-history sci-fi WW2 'Worldwar' series, In the Balance starts off a little slow plot-wise but picks up good speed. EE Knight's sci-fi/futuristic fantasy Vampire Earth starts off with Way of the Wolf. Mercedes Lackey wrote the modern-fantasy Born to Run with Larry Dixon, and the rest of the SERRAted Edge books with various other authors. Neal Stephenson's cyberpunk and slightly dystopian Snow Crash is hilarious and awesome. Maggie Furey's Aurian is the first of a fantasy quadrilogy that I enjoyed many years ago.

If you're at all familiar with the Warhammer 40k universe, the Eisenhorn Omnibus is Dan Abnett's wonderful look into the life of an Imperial Inquisitor. He's also written a popular series about the Tanith First-and-Only Imperial Guard regiment starting with The Founding Omnibus. He also wrote the first book in the Horus Heresy series, Horus Rising (I highly recommend reading the first three novels together as a trilogy and then cherry-picking the rest).

... and if you've read all that already, I'll be impressed.

Edit: Why yes, I do read a lot. Why do you ask?

There are a lot of amazing suggestions over at /r/fantasy. And more often than not the authors pop in to say hi.

As for my own suggestions:

Outlander by Diana Gabaldon is probably my favorite book/series. It's light and romancy, but has time travel and historical fiction mixed in.

Wizard's First Rule by Terry Goodkind is another great book. It is part of a series (which can get pretty heavy in the later books). But as a standalone book, its quite entertaining.

The Sword of Shannara Trilogy by Terry Brooks is a really fun read. Warlocks, druids, elves, magical trees... I thoroughly enjoyed the trilogy, as well as the author's other books. This one would probably be where I'd start if you're looking at getting in to true fantasy.

Hope you enjoy! Good luck :)

Two general types of experience you can get: hands-on, and book learning.

The former is very important, but not too difficult to do. A fair number of people in the Portland area go mushroom hunting occasionally, even if they only know a species of two. Sucking up to the right people is surprisingly effective. Also, getting in touch with or joining organizations like Oregon Mycological Society or the Cascade Mycological Society can be immensely helpful in making contacts and finding hunting partners/mentors.

The latter is also very important, as there is some much you can learn without actually holding a mushroom in your hands. For books, accessible guides like Mushrooms of the Pacific Northwest and All That the Rain promises and More are great for getting started, and heftier books like Mushrooms Demystified are good for those looking to take the next step in learning. Online, the hunting and identification board on The Shroomery, Mushroom Observer, and /r/mycology are great places to lurk and just soak in info, while sites like Mushroom Expert are good places to explore and follow what interests you.

I actually just set up a 29g tank recently. I did a bit of research, so there's a few things I would recommend. First and foremost, if you have time, get this book: Ecology of the Planted Aquarium. It goes over all the science, but in a way understandable to laymen, for everything you need to know about the tank: substrate, lighting, to CO2 or not CO2, what plants are best to start with to avoid algae problems, etc. Her methods have become known as the Walstad method.

For cycling, you can do fishless or fish-in. I did fishless, as the fish I wanted to stock my tank with aren't very hardy and wouldn't tolerate cycling. I didn't want to buy a hardy fish just to cycle the tank with. Here's a guide for fishless cycling: here. All you really need is bacteria from your LFS (most give it out for free), and some ammonia (any place that sells cleaning supplies will have it for ~1 dollar/jug). Most people recommend getting the API liquid testing master kit to measure ammonia/nitrates/nitrites. Don't get use strips.

In a planted tank, filter isn't too important. As long as it is rated for your tank size it should be fine. Plants eat up fish poop and left over food as macronutrients.

For substrate, there are several ways to do it. I can't remember exactly offhand, but I think what Walstad recommends is about 1'' of potting soil (organic i.e. no fertilizers in it) and around 0.5'' of sand on top, but not more as it the fine grain can choke off the O2 supply for the soil bacteria underneath.

For fish, it's up to personal preference. I used AqAdvisor. It's not perfect, but it helps tell you determine how many fish your tank can hold and whether there are glaring compatibility issues.

For bottom feeders...I think this is also personal preference. I have 3 otocinclus cats and maybe 7-8 cherry shrimp running around. Just make sure your tank is big enough.

For plants, try a bunch of different species and see what sticks. Fast growing plants like water sprites are good at sucking up nutrients and reducing algae growth. If you're going for a certain look, I would draw out a rough sketch of what type of plants you want where (i.e. foreground carpet, tall background plants, driftwood/rock placement) before you fill the tank up with anything. It's easier to place and plant these things before you fill the tank up with water.

Other things: If you get a lot of plants, you'll want good lighting. Lots of guides on that, lot of choices too. LEDs have gotten pretty good recently, but are pricey. But they need to be replaced less often. As for CO2, again, it depends on how many plants and how often. I know some people that get away with just daily dosing of fluorish excel (liquid carbon), but if you are really going the whole hog with plants, might want to look into DIY CO2, which is what I'm using for my 29g tank or even an expensive pressurized CO2 system.

Tl;dr - Buy/get your hands on Walstad's book before you make any big decisions so you understand why you're doing it, not just because some guy told you to do it. If you really don't want to pay, here's the super spark notes version: here.

Hi! Glad to hear you’ve been able to get a Sammy!!

As you’ve only had the dog for 3 days, this isn’t surprising at all!! It’s going to take weeks and even months of repetitive training to help your infant dog learn what you expect from them.

There’s a couple of different strategies for crate training and potty training your dog.

Your puppy is naturally a pack animal, and has just been separated from their pack, and so being alone at this stage can of course leave them upset. It’s going to be a slow process of acclimatising them to the crate, and spending time away from you.

Things that might help are making sure they’re exercised and played with well before giving them crate time. How often are they at home alone? Are you at home with them all day at the moment? How often did you get up to help them potty outside overnight? At this stage it’d be normal to expect to get up 1-2 times overnight to ensure they don’t have an accident.

Some helpful resources for you would be some of the Reddit threads in positive reinforcement based training, or some books or YouTube videos. As Sammy’s are so bright, they can be a handful initially, but do respond well to training, especially incentive based and positive reinforcement training, and a well trained Sammy is a friend for life!!

A useful book is Perfect Puppy in 7 Days Perfect Puppy in 7 Days: How to Start Your Puppy Off Right https://www.amazon.com/dp/0964151871/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CcnTAb1WQG7C4

You might find these YouTube videos useful: https://youtu.be/Y00iHQeTzdY
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL91WyqCpBlSVqbu_CghxAH_WvnkiybG3O

And a broader explanation on positive reinforcement puppy training: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL91WyqCpBlSWIn66BlXRN_gQy4hgHcqGv

Sure! I started gathering info on YouTube, so social media witches are strangely my first true love - I get a lot of inspiration seeing actual people practice. I rec Kelly-Anne Maddox for her psychological and tarot content, and Hearth Witch for her practical info - it’s like she reads all the books and presents the best parts. I like Behatilife for astrology and predictions (though I know that’s not every SASS witches bag! She’s very motivational though).

I love Fotis Casper on YouTube for meditation music, he creates music for every full and new moon that somehow correlate with the positions of planets (he uses tones that correlate to the resonance of planets- something I’m sure science witches among us could think is cool).

I don’t particularly love witchcraft books, but when I formulate spells, Scott Cunningham’s Encyclopedia of Magical Herbs is the best resource. https://www.healing-crystals-for-you.com is my favorite place to look up crystal meanings.

I’m super privileged to have a ridiculously amazing local new age/witch store that gives me so much inspiration.

As a bonus, my most useful crystal is garnet, and my favorite deck is the Queen of the Moon Oracle.

This is a great reply and pretty close to what advice I was going to offer!

Any spell that has worked for anyone - may not work for you based on the intent that was used to create it. What’s in your heart might not mesh with what was in the original creators.

Instead look for spells that you feel comfortable tweaking to make them yours.

Even in so far as changing up the rituals ingredients, and even the words used to make it more personal to your will and intent.

It will definitely help you find a new path in creating your own from scratch.

I suggest Scott Cunningham’s book encyclopedia of magical herbs

To help you get started if you want to change ingredients.

And I like to map out almost like how I would map out an essay on what I want the words to be for a spell.

• what is the intent of the spell
  
• who if at all am I reaching out to if you subscribe to any deities
  
• what offerings are you sharing to said deity
  
• reaffirm the intent in a more personal way
  
• how will I recognize that the spell has worked
  
• thanks and gratitude for the universes attention
  
  Each point is a sentence or two used in the casting.
  
  I hope this helps guide you in a way that strengthens your resolve and confidence in mastering your own spells.
  
  If you have further questions don’t hesitate to PM

OK. So...first the basics.

You don't need a heating pad. A heating pad/light isn't necessary and could even be harmful to your tarantula. Just get rid of it. They will do just fine in anything from 60 degrees F to almost 100 degrees F. Warmer is generally better than cooler, but anything in the 70 - 80 range should be fine.

Don't worry about humidity with these guys. If it has a full water dish (which should be about the same size as the tarantulas leg span, AND NO SPONGE, adding a rock that overhangs the water level isn't a bad idea either), it's fine on humidity.

Tarantulas are the "Ron Popeil Set and Forget It Oven" of pets practically. All you need to do is set it up with some substrate (I prefer cocofiber, but vermiculite or untreated potting soil is also OK), put something for a hide in there, a water dish, and check up on it every once in awhile to feed it and see what weird "spider things" its doing, and they're fine.

Here is some information for a beginner and more specifically on G. Roseas. From one of the best sources you can find.


Stan's Newbie Introduction

Stan's Rant

Care And Husbandry of the Chilean Rose Tarantula

Also, as an added bonus (In true Ron Popeil fashion) HERE is a great book to get you up to speed (authored by the person that authored all of those links I just sent).

One thing I'll add about the book however, is that it is a few years old, and therefor, some of the information in it is a bit out of date. Tarantula keeping is still pretty much in its infancy and we're all still learning/debating on what the "best" ways to keep these guys are. Take EVERYTHING you read, learn, hear, believe with a grain of salt. Always ask questions, and take the experiences of others to heart, but always be skeptical.

One thing I always like to mention because as new keepers, we get anxious over the little things:

If your tarantula is doing something "weird" and doesn't seem to be hurting itself, just take a deep breath and repeat "The spider knows how to be a spider better than I do" over and over.

Good luck, and welcome to the club! =P

Here are my favorite positive training book

The Other end of the Leash: this one is a really fantastic book on understanding dogs, dog behavior, interacting with them, building a relationship with respect versus dominance. Anything by Patricia B. McConnell is going to be solid advice and techniques.

101 Dog Tricks - just gives a really good guidelines on luring your dog into tricks versus forcing them, plus a lot of good tricks that help with mental stimulation.

Play with Your Dog: Just another really good book on good training, playing, and positive relationship building.

Ahimsa Training manual: This is the training manual from one of the best training facilities in Seattle. There are really good positive trainers.

BAT Book: Behavior Adjustment Training by Grisha Stewart: This book was a life saver for me. Shibas are prone to being really reactive and sometimes have issues with aggression and predatory drift issues, and this book really digs deep into understanding your dog and helping them make the right choices and building them up for success. I personally don't think you need to have an aggressive/reactive dog to get a lot of good info from this book.

Anything by Cesar Milan will NOT be positive training methods. He very much does not follow that philosophy. Positive training techniques do not use force, aversion, do not believe in alpha dominance theory, no physical punishment. It is a give and take type of relationship. Cesar Milan style tends to not do well with primitive breeds especially the Japanese dog breeds.

For recommendations I'm not sure I can help you, oddly enough the fics that get me off are usually (but not always) written terribly. the erotic equivalent of a Tijuana bible done by a mouth breathing 16 yr old virgin with a loose idea of what a tit looks like. I usually find them on literotica, fanfic.net or deviantART and then click away from them away in disgust afterwards. but I'm sure there are decently written ones for people who get off on grammar, punctuation and spelling on there too.

my grammar natzi friend who reads romance novels has recommended the Outlander series and although they didn't do much for me they were pretty well written, I did quite like the emphasis on brawny historical Scotsmen. DarthAmmonite is pretty good ( and writes in a manner suspiciously similarly to Ursulav's stories ) as is her far more prolific friend incandescens also I do enjoy r/ladyboners and occasionally the new tab on r/gonewild

I find it helps me to just be really, really, open about these things. constant "I'll be in my bunk" jokes and talking about sex all the damn time with my friends helps me not worry if anybody can hear me. besides that, considering how well I can hear the downstairs neighbors going at it, anybody who can hear me can just deal with it.

Congrats on your new pup-to-be! And thank you for doing so much research, there aren't nearly enough people who do their homework first :-)

My favorite potty training resource:

Why Crate Train

ABCs of Crate Training

Dos and Don'ts of Crate Training


I, too, highly recommend The Other End of the Leash

Books I also really like:

Training Your Superpuppy - it's pretty basic but it covers a little bit of a lot of topics

My Smart Puppy I really like this for a puppy training book- it comes with a DVD as well which I found very helpful

101 Dog Tricks - For some fun training and bonding exercises. There is a puppy version, but I found that my Border Collies have been able to keep up with the 'adult' book just fine. I also really like Kyra's Do More With Your Dog, just a fun book if you're looking for more activities with your dog or just to learn about other canine activities.

The Dog Wars - It's not a training book but more of a dog politics book, but it should be required reading for any Border Collie enthusiast IMO

If you have any interest in working livestock...

A Way of Life

Top Trainers Talk About Starting A Sheepdog

Herding Dogs

Talking Sheepdogs: Training Your Working Border Collie

Stockdog Savvy

Also-

Collie Psychology - I just found this book online while looking for links for the others. I know nothing about it, but reading the description looks like it could be interesting (anyone know anything about it?)

Edit: Really... once again, I'm the only comment here with a downvote?! If you've got a problem with the things I post, say it to me. Raise an issue, start a discussion. Christ.

Seconding u/theUnmutual6's recommendations, in addition to u/BlueSmoke95's suggestion to check out Ann Moura's work. I would like to recommend Ellen Dugan's Natural Witchery and her related domestic witchery books. Ellen is a certified Master Gardener and incorporates plants into much of her work.

Some of my favorite plant books!

Plant Science:

• Plant Physiology and Development (you can get away with the previous edition of this one!)
  
  
• Botany for Gardeners
  
  
• Essential Plant Pathology (do NOT get the first edition - the second edition is superior in almost every single way)
  
  
• American Horticultural Society Plant Propagation: The Fully Illustrated Plant-by-Plant Manual of Practical Techniques
  
  
  Foraging & Field Guides:
  
  
• A Field Guide to Edible Wild Plants: Eastern and central North America
  
  
• Edible Wild Plants: Wild Foods From Dirt To Plate
  
  
• The Forager's Harvest: A Guide to Identifying, Harvesting, and Preparing Edible Wild Plants
  
  Herbalism:
  
  
• Rosemary Gladstar's Medicinal Herbs: A Beginner's Guide: 33 Healing Herbs to Know, Grow, and Use (this is the first one I would recommend to novices)
  
  
• The Herbal Apothecary: 100 Medicinal Herbs and How to Use Them
  
  
• The Herbal Medicine Maker's Manual
  
  
• 300 Herbs: A Materia Medica
  
  
• Culpeper's Complete Herbal
  
  Ethnobotany:
  
  
• A Modern Herbal Vol I and Vol II (these could belong in the above section or here - I love love love these books. I think they are a must for any hedge witch or green witch!!)
  
  
• Folklore and Symbolism of Flowers, Plants and Trees
  
  
• Whispers from the Woods: The Lore & Magic of Trees
  
  
• Braiding Sweetgrass: Indigenous Wisdom, Scientific Knowledge and the Teachings of Plants
  
  I also encourage y'all to look into fungi as well. I work with both plants and fungi and I think they bring a fascinating and fulfilling aspect to my work. Plus, hunting for mushrooms is super fun! I can recommend field guide books for folks who are interested, they just tend to be very region-specific so I'm not going to list all of them here.
  
  For general fungus reading I recommend the following:
  
  
• Magical Mushrooms, Mischievous Molds
  
  
• The Fifth Kingdom
  
  
• Mycelium Running
  
  
• Radical Mycology: A Treatise on Seeing & Working with Fungi
  
  
• Mushrooms Demystified

America needs to see Marijuana as a business opportunity, not a problem. We're capitalists, let's not pay taxes to incarcerate someone who could be the taxable consumer of a taxable product of a taxable industry. There are numerous low and high skill jobs directly related. Opportunity means jobs, jobs mean income and stability for America. Obama has blundered on marijuana policy, Mexico's drug war worsens, our economy is bleeding, it's time to try something new.

A new industry is something America needs right now. Tobacco helped build early America, we're no stranger to this system. It's an un-taxed estimated $35-45 billion business opportunity. We don't even have to subsidize it, there's already enough available market to privately fund it anyway. What's the harm to try? Very few living Americans have even lived in a legal drug society. Surely it could not be worse than what we have now. Our drug policy has been failing since it made our own people the enemy. Every year it costs more money, time, and lives. People are dying out in the world because of this prohibition, it's unacceptable. The solution is right there in front of us waiting to be set in motion.

"Big Marijuana" is a scary future indeed, but one much more agreeable than prison. The distribution networks in existence are already pretty local, I imagine it would be challenging to dethrone them were it legalized. It's a flower, time is definitely a factor in transportation. The flower farms of Central America and the US already have sophisticated air transport systems in place so international business may become available in coming years as well. Additionally, industrial hemp would fit perfectly into our existing agriculture industry. If it were legal, any person could grow it in their garden just like they do other flowers. Medical patients in some states already do grow their own, so I'm not worried about a Monsanto-mono-marijuana apocalypse.

It all sounds grandiose, but American industry is a powerhouse. Sometimes we forget that here in reddit internet land. It's easy to feel like we're shit and everything is hopeless in America. For many the basic physiological and safety needs have long been won, instead, love/belonging, esteem and self actualization are the battles to be won. Dynamic and adaptive policy should be a sign of honor, the will of the nation accurately guiding it's destiny. Advanced drug policy is part of the self-actualization process, maybe we're not there yet; I say we are. Other countries are beating us in drug policy and if it's one thing America hates, it's not being first place. I want to sit and laugh at how much money we're making and reminisce the old days of prohibition. I believe in that future, that's why I'm so adamant.

Have you read the Botany of Desire? If big Industry gets a hold of Cannabis like it did Corn, well, it might have been what the plant wanted!

Whew, ok, lots to unpack here.

First question: does your dad know you're about to give him a GSD puppy? You're signing him up for a pretty big 2 year commitment here (and that's just the puppy phase), so please make sure he's 100% on board with the idea of raising a landshark demon spawn before bringing it home.

Secondly, breed standard puts an adult GSD somewhere in the neighborhood of 24" tall and 60-80lb. This can vary widlly based on sex, line, and breeding quality. My poorly-bred GSD male is 29" tall and a scrawny 85lb. I've also seen some pretty petite females come through my rescue.
On the subject of lines, do you know what kind of GSD you're getting? There are various working and show lines, and the personality and structure of your GSD can come out all over the map. If you don't know the answer from talking to your breeder, run away, because you're not getting a well-bred dog. Poorly-bred GSDs are health and temperament nightmares.

Thirdly, the breed standard calls for a confident but aloof personality, but again, temperaments may vary depending on lines and breeding quality. GSDs need to be socialized thoroughly but carefully to lock in that confident-but-also-aloof sweet spot. Flooding your puppy with tons of new people and places will create a fearful adult, but so will keeping your dog locked up. I have seen lots of success using a puppy-led gentle exposure technique. Take your dog to lots of places, but don't make the novelty into a big deal. Don't force your puppy to interact with every person and dog you see, and call it a day if your puppy seems overwhelmed or scared. A puppy builds confidence by exploring on its own, you're just there to moderate the experience and make sure it's a positive one. I can't recommend a group obedience class enough for young GSDs...learning to focus in a controlled environment around other dogs is a valuable asset for future life skills. Consider finding a local trainer that does group positive reinforcement based training, or at least very positive-leaning balanced training. Avoid anyone who mentioned "alpha" or "pack leader" because that school of thought is outdated and disproven (but is holding on forever in GSD breed circles for some reason). Also avoid anyone who wants to put a prong or choke collar on your dog without evaluating their behavior first.

Honestly, if I were you I'd stop and do a little more research before bringing home a GSD. They're a little more of a "lifestyle breed" than your average family pet, and will find and exploit any weakness in your dog-owning abilities. Read some books (recommendations here: 1 2 3 4), talk to your dad, take a good look at your breeder, maybe find a local trainer with a good positive puppy class, and try again with a little more information under your belt.

Training Positive is one of the best resources out there for newbies, IMO. He has a variety of different behaviors and really explains the WHY very well, so ideally you can take the information and apply it to behaviors he doesn't even cover. His information is all accurate and up-to-date with scientific research. He explains things very well -- I watch his videos to get ideas on how to better explain concepts. This is a good place to start!

As for books: Don't Shoot The Dog is a great one by Karen Pryor. She compares the same learning and behavior principals to people, which I think is hugely helpful in dog training (it's better to focus on our similarities than our differences). For actually teaching specific behaviors, The Power of Positive Dog Training is fantastic. Super simple, practical guides with explanations of WHY it works behaviorally.

Good luck in your research!! Already you're off to a great start just for being WILLING to research.

This book was my main introduction to permaculture. I'm still learning, and slowly bringing our suburban yard back to life after years of soil erosion and neglect by a previous owner.

Another good suburban food growing system is the Square Foot Gardening (SFG) (also as Square Meter Gardening) by Mel Bartholomew. I put in three small beds this year and so far the plants are doing very well.

Here's a tour of Richard Heinberg's suburban permaculture home in California.

Videos from Huw's Nursery have been really helpful

I didn't know just how many edible plants there were honestly. Industrialized agriculture could get hammered, but a vibrant home garden with permaculture principles and diverse crops could be scaled up relatively quickly. I've started some survival crops as well (e.g., hopniss, sunchoke, tigernuts) that thrive without much human intervention. If you start growing things like comfrey (non-invasive "bocking 14" cultivar!) or some other plants in Toby Hemenway's book, you could probably sell cuttings and seedlings on the side. I've heard of several people getting started that way.

It's not too late in the season to start some containers with tomatoes if you aren't growing anything yet. You don't even have to tell people that it's a prep for collapse :) People just love good food. My wife has begrudgingly put up with my new hobby, and she knows I do it because I'm very worried about collapse events. My cousin put in some SFG beds after I explained that I was worried about instabilities in our just-in-time industrial food system. Gardening is already a popular hobby, so your family will probably be supportive. And they get some delicious healthy food out of it.

Personally, the time I spend gardening is like my collapse zen time. It's healthy on multiple levels. With that said, my wife and others would claim I've gone overboard with it, but hopefully it's viewed as a kooky hobby and not a pessimistic doom funk like I was in before I started gardening. If you have any questions I'll do my best to field them (I'm a beginner myself).

One last recommendation, this collapse-aware career book by Charles Hugh Smith is really good

Don't count yourself out. You have a lot to offer the world.

> Any books or guides you recommend?

• A well balanced trainer so you can properly socialize the dog.
  
• Ian Dunbar's Before and After.
  
• The Puppy Primer and Perfect Puppy.
  
• kikopup
  
• zak george
  
• Pam's Dog Academy
  
• Donna Hill
  
• Training Positive
  
• Kristin Crestejo
  
  > Crate recommendations (we will be doing crate training)
  
  Crate Games and the weekend crate training plan -- adjust as necessary for your dog. Remember, never reward the dog for crying if you know they don't need anything (aka, they've been pottied, fed, etc).
  
  > What should we be prepared for? What will a rough schedule be like for having a puppy around? When do we start leaving the crate open and letting him roam all day?
  
  It can be a bit rough the first two weeks, but get onto a schedule you like ASAP. Feed at x AM, potty after, feed again at x AM/PM, etc. It'll make your life substantially easier. I take water away just before our last potty for the evening. You can start leaving the crate open and letting him roam after the teenage-angst-kill-everything phase. That'll vary by dog.
  
  > There are always debates on the best dog food for puppies and adults, so any input on that would be awesome as well
  
  For the first month, keep the puppy on whatever s/he's on. It makes it substantially easier. Too much change can really upset their digestive system. :) Honestly, I'm a firm believer in keeping your dog on what they do well on.
  
  > When we get him, should we take him right to a vet for a check up, to get established there or no? Are there routine/annual checkups we should be doing?
  
  I personally would. Shelters aren't always the most thorough in their examinations. It isn't really their fault. But, it also allows you to start the socialization process for the vet. Take lots of treats, and reward heavily during the exam - reward whilst the mouth is looked at, paws, etc. It's never too early to start that. Just keep him/her crated or off the floor until s/he's had all the vaccinations!

Fordlandia: The Rise and Fall of Henry Ford's Forgotten Jungle City is an amazing book. The main point is about Ford trying to create a company town in Brazil in order to grow rubber. But the books gives you a great picture of Ford the man, the company, what the era was like and the larger philosophical and economic ideas behind this project. Honestly, for me it read like fiction- I couldn't put it down.

They Marched Into Sunlight: War and Peace Vietnam and America October 1967 looks at the Vietnam war from three different perspectives, from students protesting, to the actual front and then from the government officials. The narrative is amazing and it's so well researched that it was captivating as well, but I think he really captured the feeling of the times as well, which is so great to see in a book.

Michael Pollan is know most for Omnivore's Dilemma (which is a great read) but I really love his first book too, and that doesn't get as much attention, which is still very interesting is The Botany of Desire. He goes through the history of 4 different plants, apples, tulips, marijuana, and potatoes. Not too interesting on the surface, but he makes the stories fascinating. It's a great in its overarching nature about our relationships with plants.

[Marriage: A History by Stephanie Coontz] (http://www.amazon.com/Marriage-History-How-Love-Conquered/dp/014303667X) is another one I always recommend. It is an expansive work showing that the idea of Marriage has been in flux since the beginning and completely depended on the culture and time period. It's well researched but also a compelling work.

Second what u/GrandmaGos says. Companion planting is mostly folklore. I do a little of it myself but I always plant my rosemary with carrots, lavender next to onions, and basil with tomatoes. But it also attracts pollinators which is important.

My mom had a community garden for a large group of kids in a local summer day camp program. Our favorites were strawberries and carrots. Most kids hated veggies and growing their own and seeing how sweet home-grown carrots were made a huge impression on a lot of kids.

For reading, I recommend Raised Bed Revolution, I got some really great plans from that book that look very nice. I also like Square Foot Gardening if you haven't read that already.

Since its a library you're at, is there anyway for the summer you could have little garden craft classes for the kids? That could be fun and keep them interested / invested. Have crafts like painting stones with the names of all the plants for plant markers. Learn about local wildflowers to attract pollinators?

For the fertilizer doses, I'm not really an expert, but you should get some good ideas from the Tom Barr website...his website is actually a lot more technically helpful than reddit on some of the more scientific aspects of planted tanks.

You can be much more precise measuring your fertilizers (and its cheaper) to buy dry ferts. I like to buy mine from greenleafaquariums.com

Your substrate choice will affect your experiment as far as fertilizing. Some, like organic potting soil, or aquasoil, will contain fertilizers. Some, like sand, are completely inert. It may make your life easier to measure the effects of fertilizer dosing with an inert substrate. Or have a sand as a control tank or something. Some of the special planted tank aquarium substrates don't contain nutrition themselves, (like fluorite, etc) but they bind them easily, and store them for plant use. Again, not sure if that would affect your experiment or not.

You'll need to make sure you take your lighting into account as well. That will affect your plant growth rate a lot.

Fast growing and minimal maintenance can include water sprite, water wisteria, amazon swords, dwarf lilly.

Edit: http://www.amazon.com/Ecology-Planted-Aquarium-Diana-Walstad/dp/0967377366/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422486719&sr=8-1&keywords=planted+aquarium+books&pebp=1422486721098&peasin=967377366

Amazing resource for you to cite for any paper you have to write.

Your soil looks nice but I think you're going to have a hell of a time getting to the veggies and whatnot that are in the middle of the bed once everything starts growing.

Also, if you read any book about gardening read Gaia's Garden which is a home scale permaculture gardening book. It's all about working with natural systems instead of working against it. How to intercrop plants to get higher production in the same amount of space by creating layers and interactions in plants. For example here in Texas it gets super hot in the summer and it'll pretty much kill my tomatoes. This year I'm experimenting with growing pole beans up the outside of my tomato cages. The beans shouldn't compete with the tomatoes for nitrogen since they can provide much of their own. Also once they beans get tall enough to start shading the tomatoes they'll actually serve to protect them from the blast furnace that is the sun here in late July through August.

Another great thing about intercropping is that it helps with deterring insects that want to eat your garden. Plenty of insects are plant specific so if you have all your cabbage planted in a row then a cabbage looper moth is going to go cabbage to cabbage to cabbage laying her eggs. When they hatch the caterpillars can easily get to all sorts of cabbage. Now if you scatter your cabbages around, have them surrounded by things like arugula, lettuce or other things that cabbage loopers don't care for as much then you slow their spread and it gives natural predators a chance to keep the pest populations in check.


Wasps are one of a gardeners best friend.

Look into no till gardening. Not only is it less work but it treats the soil like the complex system that it is instead of destroying it by mixing it up over and over.

Mulching is your best defense against weeds and water evaporation from the soil. Don't be scared of mulching to deep.

Read read read. When I started my journey four years ago, I started finding books on witchy topics that resonated with me: cat magic, herb magic, native American deities, Egyptology, Elder Futhark runes, general books on Wicca and witchcraft, etc. I also hit the Internet to learn more about the goddess aspect, Hindu gods, chakras, and spirit guides. I added each bit of knowledge that jumped out at me to a notebook that evolved into my first book of shadows. I made connections between ideas and formed a path that resonates well with me, but I’m constantly changing, just like nature.

Two books I would suggest off hand are The Goddess is in the Details and Everyday Witchcraft, both by Deborah Blake.

https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=the+goddess+is+in+the+details&sprefix=the+goddess+i&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_13

The very first book that set me on my path, however, was a good staple on any witch’s shelf, Cunningham’s Encyclopedia of Magical Herbs. I’ve heard mixed reviews on Cunningham from various witches, but the truth to me is that he’s just a little more traditional, and most of the rituals in his book on Magical Herbalism don’t have to be taken so literally.

https://smile.amazon.com/Cunninghams-Encyclopedia-Magical-Llewellyns-Sourcebook/dp/0875421229/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=encyclopedia+of+magical+herbs&qid=1558376960&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://smile.amazon.com/Magical-Herbalism-Secret-Llewellyns-Practical/dp/0875421202/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=Cunningham+herbal+magic&qid=1558377220&s=gateway&sr=8-2

As far as Tarot goes, the best advice I ever got from another practitioner is to throw away the rule book. Divining tools are meant to distract the left brain so that the right brain and third eye can open to the universal consciousness. Don’t always just read by the textbook definition of a card, but also by what you “see” and feel, and by its placement in the pattern. Some people (like me) are only able to read well for others, so if you’re not feeling it reading for yourself, practice on willing friends and strangers. Maybe avoid family right now. That can open some dark doors.

I went on way too long, but I’ve done so much research and continue to learn. I’m happy to answer any questions you may have if you want to message me. Merrily met and Blessed be.

It really doesn't sound like this is going to be a good environment to raise a healthy, well behaved dog. I think you guys need to put the hard brakes on this decision and reevaluate your choice here...but I somehow doubt your family is going to say no to a puppy so...

Leaving it alone all day will almost certainly create behavioral issues (chewing, self harm, destruction, barking, anxiety, aggression, etc). That's not a nice life for a dog, especially a puppy by itself. I leave my dog 6-8 hours, but he's grown and I know he can handle it thanks to the looong walks we take before and after work, and all the other work I've put into training him and steps I take to prevent separation anxiety. People have to go to work, but look into daycare or at the very least crate training to help. Try to get the family to re-prioritize getting home sooner to let the dog out.

>they're kinda crazy and very yappy / bark a lot.

A dog's behavior is 80% a direct reflection of the owner. Although this can be complicated when the dog has been adopted by various people. Sometimes the current owner is dealing with someone else's mistakes.

If dogs could be BRED to BEHAVE then there would be a lot more "naturally well-behaved" dogs. Breed and other genetic factors can play a part in your dog's personality, but early exposure and training will always be the PRIMARY determining factors of how your dog behaves.

Small dogs and big dogs have the same brains. People try to act like they're almost separate species in order to excuse their bad training. You will see more yappy little dogs because people let them get away with it. A german shepard that angrily barks and lunges at anyone passing by is not going to be around for long.

Dogs are a lot of work, especially the first year of training. You will get what you give with a dog. The dog's energy level matters, this is the 20% inherent personality that you have to shape and influence with your 80% training. Regardless of breed, you can find a low-energy, high-tolerance puppy in most litters...but it sounds like you picked a random pup, so it's luck of the draw for you. Might be the high-energy, reactive pup of the litter, or something in between.

Training a pom can be hard because they are cute and tiny and it's easy to let them get away with very bad behaviors that you would never tolerate from a big dog. I found it helped to always imagine that my tiny fuzz ball would one day be growing up to be a Samoyed. Would I let a Samoyed puppy jump and bark and bite, knowing that behavior would soon becoming from a 100lb dog? No way! So same for a tiny pom.

I read all of Cesar Milan's books, and also Monks of New Skete. There are also some good youtube channels to check out. At the very least watch the "what to do before/the day you bring home a puppy" vids, so you get the crucial first step right! Zach George channel and perhaps most helpful; "are you ready for a dog?"

Cesar is pretty strict with dogs, more about obedience/dominance
The Monks are middle ground
Zach is very positive reinforcement/treats
So check them all out a bit and see what style will realistically work for you and your family (could even do various approaches from different people).

Honestly it seems to me like it's almost the norm for people to impulse buy/adopt dogs, be very lazy about training, and leave them home 8-12 hours a day. You're not doing anything outlandish. However the consequences of these decisions remain. The fact that you clearly care about what happens with this dog should go a long way. All it takes is someone stopping for a minute to consider the dog's needs, rather than only the humans' needs, and you'll be on your way. Feel free to ask questions or PM me.

edit: other random pom-specific advice!
http://www.petpom.com/ -- this website has a lot of info you need! Buying their PDF is worthwhile.

Don't cut or shave the fur, esp in the first year, or the coat will be ruined.

Little dogs need lots of exercise too, multiple daily walks for their mental health. They are tiny so the walks can be sort.

Poms can be quite fragile so be careful. #1 cause of death in poms is being dropped. Be wary of letting strangers hold your dog.

Poms are subject to low blood sugar and seizures, so make sure as a baby it eats often.
Dogs are never too young to be trained. Start from day 1. The first few months are mainly about establishing a relationship and communication though.

Dog health insurance is a good idea, there's a comparison website online for plans in your area

Good dog food is a long term investment for the health of your dog. Cheap food = expensive health problems. You can also google the best brands of foods. I usually go for Acana or Wellness. Human food can also give them the same health problems so avoid it as much as possible!

>the nicest person I've been in touch with

Thanks :) You've been pretty reasonable and interesting to talk to also (sometimes thats really hard when you're passionate about something).

So, if anything I've said so far seemed to make sense to you, I'd recommend you get and read a few books that talk about how dogs (and animals in general) "work". They're all fairly cheap, interesting / easy to read, and are written by really qualified animal behaviorists / trainers:

• Don't Shoot the Dog: The New Art of Teaching and Training by Karen Pryor
  
  
• The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs by
  Patricia B. McConnell
  
  
• The Culture Clash by Jean
  Donaldson
  
  (They're in /r/dogtraining's book list, but I think these 3 are a really good place to start)
  
  They aren't going to turn you into a behaviorist just from reading those 3 books, but they'll give you a good background / base of knowledge to build on. Your girlfriend will probably think they're interesting too, and think you're pretty cool for researching / being interested in what she thinks is the best way to train / change behavior.

Look into local chapters of the mycological society or mushroom hunting groups/clubs in your area. This site lists a few options. Looks like the one in Albion may be near-ish to you.

I've also found many of the links in the sidebar helpful, especially mushroom observer and the mushroom hunting and identification forum on The Shroomery. The Shroomery's ID forum is where I go to confirm my suspected ID's after keying out specimens on my own.

I use Mushrooms Demystified, by David Arora, as a my post collection ID book. It's both huge and dated (i think it's latest edition is from the early or mid 80's) so it's functionality as a field guide or the final word in ID is lacking. Even so, it is good to learn to work through dichotomous keys like the ones that it employs and it usually gets you headed in the right direction. Other guides like Rogers Mushrooms, All the Rain Promises and More, and The National Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Mushrooms are good resources, too (I'm sure other folks can add to this list, I'm just dropping the names that first come to mind).

As much as I clash with some of his professional/ethical decisions, Paul Stamets has contributed a ton to the accessibility of Mycology to the masses. Check out Mycelium Running and Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms as introductions to the Fifth Kingdom.

I'm also really enjoying Tradd Cotter's new book, Organic Mushroom Farming and Mycoremediation

Fungi for the People and The Radical Mycology Collective have also been hugely influential in my personal growth as an amateur mycologist. If you ever get a chance to attend any of their events, I would recommend doing it.

Best of luck and enjoy your journey!

The mushroom you have there is a Red Chanterelle, inactive, although rather delicious.

If you're hunting for the real deal, try searching for Panaelous Cinctulus. They often grow in well fertilized lawns, and in or around horse dung. P. Cinctulus occurs in all 50 states and in many countries worldwide.

My best advice to you if you are serious about doing this (which you seem to be), is to learn how to properly identify a mushroom. I highly recommend you purchase a field manual such as "Mushrooms Demystified" by David Arora; it was my first mushroom book and is what spurred my now unending interest in fungi.

I know some people have made suggestions about further reading online, but, I urge you to check out shroomery.org. Besides having a ton of free information on what you're looking for, they have a very active and helpful forum that will be able to assist you in correctly identifying mushrooms. Be sure to read the rules (stickied at the top of the forum) before posting.

Goodluck and be safe. If you have any questions in the future or need a little help, feel free to PM me. Peace.

I have a reactive dog, too. Today we had a particularly stressful walk... we weren’t even a block from home when she went and lost her mind barking at my very sweet elderly neighbors who were also out for a walk. It was pretty much downhill from there.

We have been working so hard on dealing with her reactivity, and she has made a lot of progress... But... this is not what I wanted... I wanted a dog that I could take places, go hiking with, take to the dog park, who could play with my friend’s dogs, not freak out on my neighbors...and it’s hard to come to terms with what I actually have. It can be very stressful.

It helped to accept her for what she is. To realize that she is not going to be the dog that I pictured having. I don’t know what the cause of her anxiety is, but I know that she’s been through a lot in her two years. It helps to think about how much progress we have made, to celebrate the baby steps. It helps to realize that dogs, like people, can have bad days too. I try not to let her reactivity overshadow her many other great qualities. But yeah, that can be pretty hard sometimes.

I recommend picking up a copy of the book The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell. It’s a fantastic book with a lot of insight about dog behavior and their interactions with us. She is also the author of Feisty Fido: Help for the Leash Reactive Dog , which I also recommend.

Ok, I had some things to do, I wanted to reply to this earlier...I love this stuff :D

I dunno if you're looking for a specific training (general obedience, agility, protection, etc.), so I'll include a bit of everything that's helped me or that is well-regarded.

For general understanding of dog behavior, I really, really intensely love Jean Donaldson's "Culture Clash." It's not a workbook for obedience, it's more of a compilation of different techniques and why the author chose to move toward the training style she did. It's a little scathing at times. It's also relatively short (I think I finished it in a day or two), so as a general introduction, it works great.

If you have a puppy and are looking for puppy-specific knowledge, Ian Dunbar is the go-to name. There's lots and lots of Dunbar stuff out there, just plug his name in and go to town! Paul Owens' "The Puppy Whisperer" is also pretty good.

For general/pet obedience work, you really can't beat Pat Miller's "The Power of Positive Dog Training". Karen Pryor, a pioneer in clicker training (bridging the gap between marine/whale operant conditioning and dogs), also put out a great one, "Don't Shoot the Dog! The New Art of Teaching and Training". Really, anything by Karen Pryor is worth picking up if you're interested in the subject.

There are certain facets of dog body language and behavior that are pretty essential to know, and which are often neglected or incorrectly labelled in dominance-heavy learning (for instance, appeasement behaviors and fear aggression). A great start here is "On Talking Terms with Dogs" by Turid Rugaas, a Norwegian dog trainer and behaviorist.

Let's say you have a specific problem. Here are some good starts to overcoming common doggie fear issues: Patricia McConnell's "Cautious Canine and Ali Brown's "Scaredy Dog! Understanding and Rehabilitating Your Reactive Dog.. Patricia McConnell's "I'll be Home Soon" is great for separation anxiety, Terry Ryan's "The Bark Stops Here" for barking. One of my faves is Emma Parsons' "Healing the Aggressive Dog".

Finally, a book that I cannot stress enough in its awesomeness is Jane Killion's "When Pigs Fly! Training Success with Impossible Dogs". If you're stuck with a breed that was bred to work independently or you often feel that your dog is just plain ignoring you, this is a great thing to pull out.

If you're not so big on books and want videos, hop on youtube and look up kikopup! She's utterly brilliant and has a ton of videos to choose from. If you want to get more into that angle, look up the terms "shaping," "capturing," and "luring" - three different but related methods for encouraging dogs to do specific behaviors.

Finally, if you want to get down to the science of it and think more about wolves, L. David Mech is the name you want to watch for. And I have more sources on specific dogsports (gundog work, agility, etc.), but this post is already hideously long, so I'll leave it as is.

Hope that helps!

Not the OP but here’s a book list I recommend. Even if the books study Wicca, you can apply most of that knowledge to general witchcraft. Much of Wicca IS Witchcraft.

Buckland's Complete Book of Witchcraft and Buckland's Book of Spirit Communications are good books for getting a decent understanding of what could be (subjectively speaking) considered “traditional” witchcraft. I myself am NOT a fan of the Llewellyn branch of magick, as it is heavily based around forming structured groups and covens and much of the information seems more ceremonial than anything. That being said, these books give a great basic rundown into alot of different styles and tools you will most likely be using or want to use.

Wicca: A Guide for the Solitary Practitioner is great if you want to go down the Wicca path AND it’s made specifically for solitary practitioners along with having some of Scott Cunninghams own spells in it as well.

Cunningham's Encyclopedia of Magical Herbs is a good rundown of many common and uncommon reagents used in witchcraft along with their metaphysical uses. Reader's Digest Magic and Medicine of Plants despite the name is a more practical and scientifically written book on the historical and medicinal used of many N. American plants.

Inside the Mirror Box: Spells and Theory for All Practitioners was actually written by a friend of mine. His book gives alot of information on actual spellwork, along with a large selection of Mirror Box spells and a short section on other uses for mirrors (such as divination).

And finally the Encyclopedia of Spirits is a great reference guide for those of us who want to work with specific entities. The author covers the full gamut of spirits and deities from the ancient gods to christian saints and archangels to lesser known spirits.

You sound like you have a smaller version of my dog (70lbs).

STRANGERS: Does he have a crate? If not, get him one. If so, teach him to go to the crate when people come over, and go there anytime he's feeling stressed or overwhelmed. No one bothers him there, and no one approaches him there. Give him his space. You can close him in there for safety, or if he's OK (and/or my next suggestion here) leave it open for him to go in and out as he feels the need.

Have you tried muzzle training. Teaching him to wear a basket muzzle while people are over will give him the opportunity to move around them, take treats and get acclimated all while keeping your guests safe. The muzzle may also be useful for walks. KikoPup has an excellent video on teaching your dog to wear a muzzle. If done right your dog will enjoy putting on and wearing his muzzle. I know mine does, he has trouble staying still while a fasten it on because he's wagging his tail so hard.

WALKING: Do your best to take him for walks during the quieter parts of the day. After dark, early morning and early afternoons are usually good. If having a job seems to help him, put him to work. Teach him how to focus and pay attention to you at home, then start asking for it on walks, then pausing to ask for different "tricks" along the way. Keep him guessing as to what you're doing next. Don't be afraid to pull out the "big guns" when it comes to treats for high distraction and problem areas like walks. Is there any food he goes nuts for? And not just the commercial treats; lunch-meat, cheeses, green tripe, bacon. Try a bunch of things and see what really lights him up, reserve that item for walks. If he's big on toys you can also use a toy to reward for good behavior or distract him.

FOOD AGGRESSION: I can't recommend MINE! by Jean Donaldson enough. It's a wonderful resource, with easy to follow step by infinitesimal step to help your dog be more comfortable with you around his food. Also, if you have a crate (or go get one), you can feed him and give him his extended chewing items in the crate.

IN GENERAL: It sounds like you've been doing everything right. If you get really frustrated don't be afraid to ask for more help. Sometimes training and time aren't enough to help our dogs. Do not be afraid to work with a Veterinary Behaviorist (not a person who calls themselves a behaviorist, or your general practitioner vet). Medication can HELP. If you have a continuously anxious dog, even at a low level, can cause chronic health issues for them (and since you're stressed because he is, you too). If after speaking with a veterinary behaviorist, they think medication can help, don't wait, go for it. The help of a veterinary behaviorist and medication has helped my dog become a happy dog, who can actually go out in public as long as no one tries to grab him, and can snooze in his crate while we have guests over.

I have to also recommend the Square Foot Gardening book, mostly for all it has to offer someone who is kind of starting with the basics. Once I read that I then branched off to various web sites, including reddit. MIGardener, while in Michigan and not at all your climate or mine, has tons of videos on youtube that are great for the beginner. If you follow him on Facebook you'll get a notification when he puts up a new video on youtube (though he has enough now you could lose a whole weekend watching them). He also just started selling seeds for $0.99, so if you're looking for an online seller, there you go.
My first garden, a 4' x 4' raised bed, was done strictly according to the Square Foot Gardening (SFG) method. I learned so much that first season about timing, soil, watering, etc., and even had some very successful veggies! My second season didn't go so well but that had nothing to do with what I had or hadn't learned. This is my third season and I've started several plants inside, ready to put them into my garden in a month or so. I will still be using all that I learned from my SFG book though I have a better idea of what plants I can crowd more than he recommends. Regardless, the book is still vital reference material for me. I even consulted it Saturday night for some seedling information.
For the existing plants, you might want to google them specifically (ie, 'pruning rosemary' or 'caring for my rosemary bush'). I got a ruled notebook and made one page per veggie/fruit that I was interested in and noted the information I found that was specifically important to me. The other stuff just kind of lays dormant in your brain until you get more involved in gardening and then it just pops out when needed! Good luck and enjoy! (I too plant tomatoes though I don't care for them much, unless in pico de gallo. I started 8 different types this season because it's so fun to watch them grow!!)

https://smile.amazon.com/All-Square-Foot-Gardening-Revolutionary/dp/1591865484/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486443200&sr=8-1&keywords=square+foot+gardening

I'm not sure what you mean by negative reinforcement - in learning theory terms, that means stoping a bad thing (negative - taking away) to encourage them to do something again. I believe what you meant was positive punishment - doing a bad thing (positive - adding something) to discourage that behaviour in the future. You are right to stay away from physical reprimands (positive punishment) but I would still keep verbal corrections. NO is a very common word in our everyday lives though and they get desensitized to that fairly quickly, so I use NAH AH, or a gutteral EEEEIIIHHHH (rhymes with hay).

For training specific commands like sit, I'd recommend not adding a verbal cue until you have an 80% reliable response to a hand signal, otherwise, they may learn to associate the word with other things instead of the behaviour you want. The Power of Positive Dog Training is a very good book for describing detailed methods of positive training, it has a great 6 week program outlined for basic obedience training plus some fun tricks.

You can definitely train him to respond to his name better, either that one or a new one. Simply say the name, and give a treat when he looks at you in response. A clicker helps greatly in capturing the correct respone. And if he doesn't look at you right away, make yourself more interesting, baby talk, flap your arms, jump and squeal and scoot away, whatever gets his attention. You should also never say his name in anger, he needs to learn that his name means pay attention and good things will happen, not his name means punishment.

There are over the counter supplements and products you can try that may help such as: adaptil, calming care probiotic, zylkene, solliquin (l-theanine). They can help take the edge off for some anxious, stressed out, or freaked out dogs but they aren't true behavior medications.

When was the last time that the vet was consulted about medications? Does the vet know the real extent of these behaviors or were they downplayed a bit? At the end of the day, vets are not behavioral experts. I would recommend seeking out different opinions with a vet with behavioral knowledge and experience, or consult a veterinary behaviorist because its unfair to the cats, to you and your partner, and the dog to have this sort of stress in your day to day. If you want to pursue medication options, a Board Certified Veterinary Behaviorist is a vet who has gone through additional behavior residency and has the best range of knowledge to prescribe, combine, taper on/off and transition medications.

The alpha thing is bunk nonsense in dog-human relationships. When you try to 'correct' her or try to get her to listen she's most likely just afraid and nervous and not as familiar with you, so she is running to the person she finds most comforting and trusts more. What region are you in? Perhaps there is a trainer or resource we can recommend to help.

I also read in your comments that you work from home and are therefore with her all the time - I'm betting that this is really, really exacerbating things. Its hard to work, relax, chill, have a good relationship with a dog that is putting you on edge all day and night! Have you explained this to your partner? Does he truly realize how challenging and exhausting this can be? I went through the same thing when we first adopted our dog because I was freelancing from home and with her 24/7 for nearly a year. It drove me bonkers and I was on edge - turned me into a reactive human! I recommend just taking a step back and finding an activity you and the dog enjoy doing together and spend some silly quality time with her. Could be blowing bubbles, cuddling, playing with some toy, making dumb noises, whatever.

And lastly - this is a really good, short read on Resource Guarding, which seems to be one of the primary issues you are dealing with. It is one of the most highly regarded resources on this issue so I would strongly recommend giving it a read!

Positive reinforcement/clicker training is the way to go with whippets (and all animals).

Some great YouTube channels I’d recommend are Zak George and KikoPup. Their videos are very informative and watching how to train the tricks helps a lot with training your own pup.

The website of dog trainer Victoria Stillwell, Positively, has lots of good articles on training. I also found the book “The Power of Positive Dog Training” by Pat Miller to be a big help as well.

r/dogtraining is a wonderful resource for ideas and problem solving.

Avoid like the plague any training program or trainer who advocates dominance based training theories or getting rough/violent with their animals while training. Dominance theory is outdated, disproven, and based on incorrect information. It can break down the bond of trust between dog and owner, as well as crest problems like fear based aggression towards the owner.

Congrats on your whippet puppy and best of luck with training!

Hey, I’ll try to offer up some knowledge.

For tools, I agree with another poster about figuring out what your next project is, then figure out if you need a new tool. I actually don’t have a table saw so I have to get creative with execution. My router and miter saws are my best friends. I also have a No. 4 LN smoothing plane that I use constantly. It’s extremely versatile and it’s very meditative (is that the right word here) and relaxing to use! I find myself reaching for it almost every project, but it may not be as useful on large outdoor projects. Some decent chisels are useful. Lastly, a good, solid work bench or work surface with a vise that doesn’t wobble is very helpful in woodworking.

For cutting tips, first make sure everything is square and aligned on your saws. Next, develop a consistent cutting and marking system so it becomes second nature and you become confident in your marks. My method for marking is that I use a pencil to mark my cut line. I mark in a way so I draw the line on the waste side and cut on the pencil mark. What I mean is that I know in my head to keep cutting slivers off until there is no pencil visible on the piece I’m cutting then I know I’m done.

For joinery techniques, this book below is really good. It discusses the cuts for almost every joint and very easy to follow and understand with plenty of diagrams. It’s definitely dated, especially when it talks about tools and glue, as it’s an older book, but the fundamentals of joinery haven’t changed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1561580686/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_14_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ATDVGMTHCWW9DYHKH0YW&dpPl=1&dpID=51aWxssSgnL
I don’t know why it can be so expensive sometimes but find a cheap used copy online. This is definitely beginner friendly in my opinion.

I don’t have a lot of knowledge on outside wood, but I know cedar is good and have heard teak is as well.

Wow, your first dog is going to be a German Shepherd..... Do your research, he will be great with the kids as long as your willing to put the time in to do this right.

GSD pups are notorious for being "mouthy". Redirect him, when he bites, let out an "OUCH", draw back, play stops, give him a bone immediately. (or suitable chew toy) Remember, you are not rewarding him, you are redirecting. He is a baby, he is teething and hasn't learned bite inhibition yet. You have to teach him.

I have also used the technique that when he bites, "OUCH" and turn your back on him. That is what worked for my current boy. You would have thought he lost his best friend. It was traumatic, he did not like it at all. It worked.

Potty training. If you don't catch him in the act, don't scold him, he has no idea he did anything wrong. If you catch him, "NO" and immediately take him outside. When outside in the appropriate place and he starts to go, use a key word like "going potty", "go poop" whatever you want to use. You will feel like an idiot saying it over and over while the dog defecates but you will thank me later.

Consistency and routine are your friend. He IS smarter than you are.

I would highly recommend a professional trainer for YOU. At least basic puppy classes. Crate train, it is the best thing on the planet. You can also use it to help build his bladder.

He appears to be about 12 weeks, can't really tell for sure. You have so much research to do....

The Monks of New Skete "The art of raising a Puppy" is a good resource book on raising GSDs. They have a good mix of positive training with discipline. GSDs need both. He has to view you as the pack leader or he is going to walk all over you. Especially since he is a male.

These are my opinions. I have had Shepherds since I was a kid and the past 25 years as an adult. I took a basic puppy class last year with our newest Dog. It was for me as a refresher more than for him but he got some socialization out of it as well. They need that, take him places, new sounds, people, pets. Do not let it be traumatic for him. He will go through "fear periods" every so often, he will be afraid of things that he wasn't before but it will pass.

These things are a Godsend

Successful organic gardening and farming is a question of figuring out how to turn what seem like liabilities into assets. It seems like you have too much sun. Try putting up some shade cloth to block out sun during the most intense parts of the day. Mulch your plants. A lot. Mulch will save you.

Read some books. Eliot Coleman's books are fabulous, and contain a lot of good general information even though the author lives in Maine. I particularly recommend Four Season Harvest. Gaia's Garden is great, and is well suited to someone who owns very little land. Teaming with Microbes is an easy-to-read introduction to bringing your soil to life. And Roots Demystified has some great information about how to best design watering systems for specific plants you're growing. These books all have good pest-fighting information.

You can PM me if you have any questions. Get started!

I can't speak to some of those questions with great certainty, I don't have any formal education in this topic. Though I know enough to hunt for many edible mushrooms.

And a copy of Mushrooms Demystified.

What book are you referencing?

Concerning the spore measurements, you do indeed need a microscope to discern individual spores.

Though taking a spore print of a mushroom is pretty simple, Here ya go.

> If you don't want to separate the cap from the stem, make a hole in an index card, place the card on a paper cup and slide the stem of the mushroom through the hole until the underside of the cap is resting on the card; then proceed as above.

You assure that you will not make a big mistake by sticking to tried and verified mushrooms that are well documented.

Search engines are an incredible resource for learning this kind of thing.

Many people who love mushrooms love to share their knowledge so many resources are available online.

Most importantly you should find people to hunt with to help you ID your finds.

Good luck, happy hunting!

> I wouldn't hire a dog walker due to the aggression with other animals and humans.

Not all dog walkers are equal! For example, I walk dogs and have ended up specializing in 'tough cases'. I walk one family of dogs at a time if they're well behaved together, but mostly I walk single dogs. I take my time getting to know them, do multiple visits with the owner present until the dog trusts me enough that I can leash them up, and then spend time building positive associations with the dog. When walking we actively work on reducing leash aggression and improving leash manners.

You might find someone like that near you who's willing to help out. It might cost more up front, but in the long run it could do a LOT for her problems. Even having someone come walk her mid day twice a week could mean a big improvement, especially if you take her out daily as well.

It does sound like you're dealing with separation anxiety - the not eating food when alone is a big clue - so having some sessions with a force free trainer could help there as well. I also really like this book for treating SA.

Oh no, you got your puppy too early! In most places it's illegal to sell a puppy younger than 8 weeks old. Puppies learn a lot of valuable social lessons from their littermates and mother during that time, so you need to make up the difference yourself.

You need to start socializing him ASAP. Get him around fully vaccinated (and friendly) adult dogs so he can start to learn how to be a dog. Puppy playdates are worth their weight in gold, and it's perfectly safe as long as all attending puppies are up to date (not done, but on schedule) with vaccinations. Ask your vet and call around to local trainers to see what classes are available to you. I cannot stress this enough: if you do not properly and thoroughly socialize your puppy, he will grow up to have potentially severe behaviour and fear issues. This is doubly important for a GSD, as shepherds can be prone to anxiety or neurotic behaviour if poorly bred or poorly raised. You already know your dog is poorly bred, so make sure to stack the odds in your favour the next few months. Here is a checklist you can use to make sure he's being exposed to everything necessary.

Besides that very important point, your puppy will be capable of learning basic obedience (sit, down, stay, touch, drop it, leave it, things like that) as soon as you want. It'll take time and repetition for the lessons to sink in, and right now his attention span is very short. Keep training sessions to 5-10 minutes at most, and definitely use treats. What a lot of people do is forgo meals entirely and use the puppy's food as training treats throughout the day. It's a good thing for a puppy to earn his food. Look up the "nothing in life is free" training method and see if you like that approach.

If you want further reading, this book is excellent. Since your puppy is so young, you should keep expectations low. Be patient and consistent, and remember that puppies literally know nothing. They have to be taught everything, including how not to be a butthead.

For more resources and support, /r/puppy101 is a great community.

To add to what ellipsoptera said:

Widows (and other members of the cobweb spider family, Theridiidae) do have a tendency to build webs near the top of the jar, which often means that the web will be torn if you need to open it (for giving food or water). Sometimes it can be helpful to turn their containers upside-down, so the lid is at the bottom.

When spiderlings emerge, they will eventually start eating each other if they are not separated. I usually release most of my spiderlings, as I rarely want to raise more than a few at a time.

Another fun species to keep, if you have them in your area, is Kukulcania hibernalis. (In the west, there are other species of Kukulcania.) They are very easy to keep, as they can go a long time between meals and water if necessary (although I give mine a weekly watering between meals anyway). They are very timid, and they don't do much but sit in their webs when they are not eating, but they are fun to feed.

Lastly, depending on how interested you are in spiders, you may want to consider a tarantula. Other than my true spiders, tarantulas are the lowest-maintenance pets that I've ever kept (a lot less work than rodents or birds). Most of the New World species are docile and easy to keep. Pet stores usually just carry Chilean rose tarantulas (Grammostola rosea) and pinktoe tarantulas (Avicularia avicularia) for $15-$25, but you can get other options from breeders. (Depending on whom you ask, many would recommend against buying from big box pet stores.) Female tarantulas live for many years, so you can use them in your classroom for a long time.

If you're interested in tarantulas, some good reading material: Spiders, Calgary Web site, especially:

• Stan's Newbie Introduction
  
• Stan's Rant
  
• Myths, Misconceptions, Mistakes
  
• Care And Husbandry of the Chilean Rose Tarantula: This is a good species for beginners, but they have a few quirks.
  
  Afterwards, The Tarantula Keeper's Guide (same author as the above Web site) is an invaluable resource for new and experienced keepers alike.
  

This is going to seem like a weird suggestion but hear me out:

Martha Stewart's Homekeeping Handbook.

If you just see the cover, you'll be like, "um, I don't need a book to tell me how to wash windows, k thx bye."

But a picture of the cover doesn't show the Bible-like thickness of this book. It's like 750 pages and is a comprehensive guide to living in a house. Covers everything you should be doing to maintain a house on a daily, weekly, monthly, yearly basis. Covers how to manage specific rooms. Covers how to deal with pets. Covers everything from how to wash and fold clothes to how to repair the plumbing to the washing machine. Covers everything from how to clean a lampshade to how to add a new lightswitch. Has a "materials library" where it goes over every possible material things could be made out of in your home and how to care for them.

It's absurd how in-depth it is. It's basically everything you'll "find out the hard way" about owning a home over 30 years, the easy way and without the wait.

But, if you're looking to go beyond "how to be a homeowner," the Reader's Digest/Family Handyman "Complete Do-it-Yourself Manual is the single best resource for all your DIY home improvement heavy lifting.

Some things I would do in addition to changing locks and a deep clean...

Test out and explore the circuit breaker. Know what does what outlets/lights/etc.

Replace all of the smoke detectors if you don't know how old they are. Most are only rated for 10 years. Get a CO combo unit as well. Could save your life later. Pick up a fire extinguisher as well and check it whenever you check your fridge filter (or furnace filter if the fridge doesn't have water filter).

Clean your oven. Always good to have a fresh start.

Have stained woodwork? Invest in a wax stick and stain marker that matches the existing trim to repair any nicks and scratches that happen when you move in :)

Most importantly...remember there is no rush on many repairs. Water is something best repaired as soon as discovered...but little things you may find annoy you (like the off-white outlets and switches) are things you can tackle whenever you deem fit. Owning a home is not as difficult as many people make it out to be. You already have found a good resource. Here is another one I would suggest:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1621452018/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile

Most of all...enjoy your home. Remember to relax and share it with others...especially those you care about. Wish you the best!

Okay;First off you need a Grimoire.Its basically a spell book.You can purchase one online or write it yourself like a journal!

I highly suggest keeping a journal about magic.Write all of your experiences,feelings and failures of all the spells,rituals,invocations you have casted.
Also create a section on herbs.Write there effects down and how they make you feel!

Heres a book on Herbal Magic: https://www.amazon.com/Cunninghams-Encyclopedia-Magical-Llewellyns-Sourcebook/dp/0875421229/ref=zg_bs_12486_3/135-8205043-8790655?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PQJ6TXTK6F6GKV41VFXN

Dont worry.If your not into herbal magic you dont need to get into it :)

As for purchasing,i suggest buying traditional Magic books from Amazon.

Im not exactly sure what you may not like so heres a link of 5 books for beginner Witches,with synopsises,summaries and why it may be good for Beginner Witches: http://learningwitchcraft.com/5-best-witchcraft-books-for-beginners/

I recommend checking out this channel and watching her video about what you should be thinking of while casting a spell.

Here are 2 links from this site which is hella helpful:

https://exemplore.com/wicca-witchcraft/Witchcraft-for-Beginners-Free-Spells-Exercises-and-Lessons.

And: https://exemplore.com/wicca-witchcraft/Witchcraft-For-Beginners-The-Five-Essential-Parts-of-Casting-Spells

I wish you the best experiences as a Witch!

May you use your powers for good always.

And focus on meditating,lucid dreaming,seeing auras and Astral Projection.You are very gifted in it,so please focus on it always :)

Check out the Occult subreddit,They're
all about Astral Projection and alike :) https://www.reddit.com/r/occult/

Good luck my Witch friend!

Are you wanting to learn craftsman type woodworking, or mostly wanting to do around the house carpentry / home improvement type projects? If the former, I'd recommend the set of books by Tage Frid called Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking (http://www.amazon.com/Tage-Frid-Teaches-Woodworking-Step-By-Step/dp/1561580686) to learn the basics and a subscription to Fine Woodworking magazine if just to see some of the interesting stuff that people are doing.

For those power tools, as has been mentioned below but I shall say again, learn about safety. The skin graft on my thumb concurs.

You don't mention hand tools in your list, so I'd recommend getting some decent chisels and planes (made in England or the US, old is better if they aren't too mangled) and learn how to sharpen them well. Using hand tools helps teach you how wood works, the better for you to work wood.

Have fun, be safe, and make stuff.

It depends! Have you thought about which species?

You'll need an appropriately-sized container, some substrate, a water dish, and some kind of hide, probably.

You can use repurposed plastic containers or buy something special, but an enclosure should be secure enough to keep your spider safe (nothing it can get caught in, holes small enough to prevent escape, but allow adequate ventilation) and it may be taller for arboreal or burrowing tarantulas or shorter for your standard terrestrial beginner Ts. If you're going with an adult, Kritter Keepers work pretty well, but for a spiderling or juvenile, you'll want to start out small and move it into something larger later.

Arboreals don't generally need much in terms of substrate, but terrestrials will require enough to prevent injury from a fall. I use either cocofiber (sold as Eco Earth in expandable bricks or loose) or 100% peat (sold in any Lowe's/Home Depot/garden supply store), or a mix of the two. You don't want anything with any additives (e.g., soil with fertilizers or pesticides), so be sure to read the labels before you buy. Some people also just use regular dirt from outdoors (this seems to be more of a European thing), but the risk of it being contaminated with pesticides makes that impractical for some keepers.

A water dish can be a fancy rock-like thing or a repurposed drink lid or anything else that'll hold water and allow the spider access. I use plastic petri dishes for most of my tarantulas.

A hide can be simple/cheap or fancier too. I generally use cork bark, which seems to resist mold and other nastiness and gives a natural look to things. Pet stores generally have a variety of stuff to choose from in the reptile section. Other people make their own, from PVC pipes or other plastics. The important thing is that it shouldn't have any particularly sharp edges or spiky bits that could cause a spider harm.

Burrowing species (and many terrestrial juveniles) may not need or use hides, and may just require a little "starter hole" to begin a burrow. Arboreals may not need a hide either, but they'll need some structure to attach their webbing to--plastic vines near the top of the container work pretty well.

Don't worry about extra heating, lighting, or humidity at this point. Relatively few species require more care than can be given in normal room-temperature conditions.

I'd highly recommend a copy of The Tarantula Keeper's Guide, by Stan and Marguerite Schultz. It'll get you up to speed on the basics, and while it isn't perfect, it's an excellent resource, especially for beginners. I'd also recommend looking through posts both on here and on Arachnoboards to get ideas and a feel for what's in store.

Since you only brought her home today, I wouldn't judge her ability to understand where to potty quite yet. I definitely don't think she has a psychological problem. She's in a brand new home with brand new people and has absolutely no clue what's happening to her. Even dogs that were previously perfectly house trained for years tend to have accidents in the house after being in a shelter or rehomed. With a little decompression time, you'll be surprised at how much more of her personality you discover.

Since she's new to your home, you're going to want to introduce her to your home by slowly increasing her access to your space. Dogs won't potty in what they think is their home/hangout spot. You can start with a crate and work outwards. Whenever she isn't crated, having her tethered to you or closely monitored while tethered to furniture is a great start, too.

I'll link a couple of Zak George videos, too. It's way easier to explain techniques through video links. He's got great positive training tips, especially for dogs that are essentially blank slates. If you want to delve deeper, I'd read How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves or The Perfect Puppy in 7 Days, both by Sophia Yin.

Zak George on House Training

Zak George on Crate Training

Good luck! Congratulations on your new addition!

Like most training, you need to set up practice scenarios in order to succeed. If you dive straight into real world scenarios with highly valued items, of course you'll fail. It's a bit like trying to teach recall at the dog park without practicing hundreds of times in scenarios that are easier for your dog (and then claiming treats just don't work). You're setting the dog up for failure. You always need to set up situations where it's easy for the dog to give you the response you want. In this case, you need to give the dog low value items you can trade for in a calm, safe environment. Practice with items the dog is all too willing to trade for and gradually work your way up to higher value items and extremely high value items for trade. These practice scenarios will often involve items you can give back to the dog after you've taken them away. That teaches the dog that giving an item to you doesn't necessarily mean it will be taken away, and that really helps to build trust for emergency situations in the real world.

Mine! by Jean Donaldson is a good overview of guarding behavior in dogs and some of the steps you can take to work on it while making sure that you and others remain safe.

• Culture Clash
  
• The Other End of the leash
  
• Execl-Erated Learning
  
• Don't Shoot the Dog
  
• The Thinking Dog: Crossover clicker training
  
  All of the above in that order. The first two are on dogs in general and how to work with them with out being a dick. The other three are serious books on dog training theory. The last one especially is amazing and well worth a read once you get the other concepts down.
  
  One other book I would highly recommend to read
  
  
• Be the pack leader
  
  The reason I recommend it once you get in to dog training you are going to her a lot pro and against Caesar Milan. And it is far better to be informed so you can speak competently about it. Honestly I don't think he is the great satan he is made out to be. People need to exercise their dogs more and take an active role in training them. More people need to preach this message. Its mostly the flooding and dominance theory that I personally to find to be bunk.
  
  Read it and read it after you have read the above books so you can be prepared to talk with those that have him as their one and only dog training resource. Don't be a douche with them and put up your nose and shout them down but help try to steer them to other resources instead.
  
  So now you have read books and watched DVDs what now?
  
  Practice! How do you practice? Damn good question. If you have your own dog start there and then find yourself a local rescue or shelter in need and in most metro areas there are.
  
  Volunteer to work with shelter dogs this has many advantages.
  
  
• There is no shortage of dogs that need help
  
• You will be working with dogs at their worst and most stressed
  
• You will get a lot of experience with several kinds of dogs (small, big, hyper, calm, kennel stressed, flat out crazy, shy, confident)
  
• These dogs need the most help and you will be quietly literally for some of them saving their lives by making them more adoptable and staving off kennel stress
  
  NOTE: My own personal bias. Clicker training is godlike. I am getting faster and better results than I ever did with yank and crank or even with lure and reward! I also do all my dog work pro bono with local shelters and rescues.
  
  Example: Teaching a dog to walk at heel in under 45 minutes, with it being solid after only 4 training sessions, completely off lead by 6. Even with my best lure and reward this took months.
  
  TLDR: Read up, get some skills, practice on crazy dogs in shelters, come back to us and ask again after you get a few thousand hours under your belt.
  

First of all:

Check out the Tarantula Keepers Guide. It will give you the basic / advanced information you will need. Things like what to expect from a molting tarantula.

Please take the time to read it, as keeping a tarantula healthy and happy is very different from that of more traditional pets.

Now:

What are you concerned about? Your post is pretty vague.

>when I came home she looked like that

the photo shows a tarantula, nice colors, but nothing out of the ordinary?

>there was a patch of hair on the bottom of the molt

When tarantulas molt, the exuvia (cast off outer shell) has hair bristles on it, just like the tarantula did. They grow new bristles under their exo before they molt. The abdomen is the only part which is not "hardened" so that as they eat they can have their abdomen grow larger. The exuvia is literally their hard outer shell, so it makes sense that the old abdomen will be skin-like. Think about a balloon when you blow it up with air. The balloon "skin" expands to make room for the new stuff inside (air) much like a tarantulas abdomen will. When all the air is let out, the balloon looks all shriveled up. That's why the old abdomen may look like a shriveled ball of hair.

I hope this helps. And please please please do your research BEFORE buying a pet. Animals have feelings too.

The Following list is taken from the Witches & Warlocks FB page. (This is Christian Day's group)

Witches and Warlocks Recommended Reading List
This is a collection of books recommended by our admins and participants in the group. Books must be approved by the admins so if you'd like to see one added to the last, please post it in the comments at the bottom of this list and, if it's something we think is appropriate, we'll add it! We provide links to Amazon so folks can read more about the book but we encourage you to shop at your local occult shop whenever possible! :)


BEGINNER'S WITCHCRAFT BOOKS

Buckland's Complete Book of Witchcraft
by Raymond Buckland
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0875420508

Drawing Down the Moon: Witches, Druids, Goddess-Worshippers, and Other Pagans in America
by Margot Adler
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0143038192

Grimoire of the Thorn-Blooded Witch: Mastering the Five Arts of Old World Witchery
by Raven Grimassi
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1578635500

The Inner Temple of Witchcraft: Magick, Meditation and Psychic Development
by Christopher Penczak
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0738702765

The Kybalion: The Definitive Edition
by William Walker Atkinson (Three Initiates)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1585428744

Lid Off the Cauldron: A Wicca Handbook
by Patricia Crowther
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1861630328

Mastering Witchcraft
by Paul Huson
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0595420060

Natural Magic
by Doreen Valiente
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0919345808

Natural Witchery: Intuitive, Personal & Practical Magick
by Ellen Dugan
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0738709220

Old World Witchcraft: Ancient Ways for Modern Days
by Raven Grimassi
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1578635055

The Outer Temple of Witchcraft: Circles, Spells and Rituals
by Christopher Penczak
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0738705314

Power of the Witch: The Earth, the Moon, and the Magical Path to Enlightenment
by Laurie Cabot
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0385301898

Solitary Witch: The Ultimate Book of Shadows for the New Generation
by Silver RavenWolf
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0738703192

Spirit of the Witch: Religion & Spirituality in Contemporary Witchcraft
by Raven Grimassi
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0738703389

Witch: A Magickal Journey
by Fiona Horne
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0007121326

Witchcraft for Tomorrow
by Doreen Valiente
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0709052448

Witchcraft Today
by Gerald Gardner
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0806525932
The Witches' Craft: The Roots of Witchcraft & Magical Transformation
by Raven Grimassi
http://www.amazon.com/dp/073870265X
The Witching Way of the Hollow Hill
by Robin Artisson
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0982031882

WITCHCRAFT HISTORY AND RESOURCE BOOKS

Aradia or The Gospel of the Witches
by Charles Godfrey Leland
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0982432356

Encyclopedia of Mystics, Saints & Sages: A Guide to Asking for Protection, Wealth, Happiness, and Everything Else!
by Judika Illes
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0062009575

The Encyclopedia of Witches, Witchcraft and Wicca
by Rosemary Ellen Guiley
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0816071047

Etruscan Roman Remains
by Charles Godfrey Leland
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1494302519

The God of the Witches
by Margaret Murray
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0195012704

The Weiser Field Guide to Witches, The: From Hexes to Hermione Granger, From Salem to the Land of Oz
by Judika Illes
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1578634792

ADVANCED BOOKS ON WITCHCRAFT AND MAGIC

Blood Sorcery Bible Volume 1: Rituals in Necromancy
by Sorceress Cagliastro
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1935150812

The Deep Heart of Witchcraft: Expanding the Core of Magickal Practice
by David Salisbury
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1780999208

Teen Spirit Wicca
by David Salisbury
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1782790594

Enchantment: The Witch's Art of Manipulation by Gesture, Gaze and Glamour
by Peter Paddon
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1936922517

Initiation into Hermetics
by Franz Bardon
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1885928122

Letters from the Devil's Forest: An Anthology of Writings on Traditional Witchcraft, Spiritual Ecology and Provenance Traditionalism
by Robin Artisson
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1500796360

Magical Use of Thought Forms: A Proven System of Mental & Spiritual Empowerment
by Dolores Ashcroft-Nowick and J.H. Brennan
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1567180841

Magick in Theory and Practice
by Aleister Crowley
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1500380679

The Plant Spirit Familiar
by Christopher Penczak
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0982774311

Protection and Reversal Magick
by Jason Miller
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1564148793
Psychic Self-Defense
by Dion Fortune
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1578635098
The Ritual Magic Workbook: A Practical Course of Self-Initiation
by Dolores Ashcroft-Norwicki
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1578630452
The Roebuck in the Thicket: An Anthology of the Robert Cochrane Witchcraft Tradition
by Evan John Jones, Robert Cochrane and Michael Howard
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1861631553

The Satanic Witch
by Anton Szandor LaVey
http://www.amazon.com/Satanic-Witch-Anton-Szandor-LaVey/dp/0922915849
Shadow Magick Compendium: Exploring Darker Aspects of Magickal Spirituality
by Raven Digitalis
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VS0N5K
The Tree of Enchantment: Ancient Wisdom and Magic Practices of the Faery Tradition
by Orion Foxwood
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1578634075
The Underworld Initiation: A journey towards psychic transformation
by R.J. Stewart
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1892137038

HERBALISM, CANDLES, INCENSE, OILS, FORMULARIES, AND STONES

A Compendium of Herbal Magic
by Paul Beyerl
http://www.amazon.com/dp/091934545X

Cunningham's Encyclopedia of Magical Herbs
by Scott Cunningham
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0875421229

The Enchanted Candle: Crafting and Casting Magickal Light
by Lady Rhea
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0806525789

The Enchanted Formulary: Blending Magickal Oils for Love, Prosperity, and Healing
by Lady Maeve Rhea
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0806527048

Incense: Crafting and Use of Magickal Scents
by Carl F. Neal
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0738703362

Magickal Formulary Spellbook Book 1
by Herman Slater
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0939708000

Magickal Formulary Spellbook: Book II
by Herman Slater
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0939708108


SPELLCASTING AND SPELLBOOKS
Crone's Book of Charms & Spells
by Valerie Worth
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1567188117

Crone's Book of Magical Words
by Valerie Worth
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1567188257

Encyclopedia of 5,000 Spells
by Judika Illes
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0061711233

Everyday Magic: Spells & Rituals for Modern Living
by Dorothy Morrison
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1567184693

Pure Magic: A Complete Course in Spellcasting
by Judika Illes
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1578633915
Utterly Wicked: Curses, Hexes & Other Unsavory Notions
by Dorothy Morrison
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0979453313
The Voodoo Hoodoo Spellbook
by Denise Alvarado
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1578635136

The Voodoo Doll Spellbook: A Compendium of Ancient and Contemporary Spells and Rituals
by Denise Alvarado
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1578635543


THE ANCESTORS AND WORKING WITH THE DEAD
The Cauldron of Memory: Retrieving Ancestral Knowledge & Wisdom
by Raven Grimassi
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0738715751

The Mighty Dead
by Christopher Penczak
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0982774370

Speak with the Dead: Seven Methods for Spirit Communication
by Konstantinos
http://www.amazon.com/dp/0738705225
The Witches' Book of the Dead
by Christian Day
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1578635063
_____
TAROT

78 Degrees of Wisdom
by Rachel Pollack
http://www.amazon.com/dp/157863408

I would not recommend the Audubon guide it is very out of date (this can range from outdated taxonomy all the way to toxicology that has changed over the years). It is useful because it lists species other guides lacks but you'll learn to hate it.

Buy a location specific guide. It depends on where you live. If you get really into field hunting buy some specific guides that give you a more in depth understanding and help you not to die. Joining a local mycological society is also an extremely valuable resource in understanding mycology.

Here's a bit of everything

Regional guides

Alaska

Common Interior Alaska Cryptogams

Western US

All The Rain Promises and More
Mushrooms of the Pacific Northwest

Mushrooms Demystified This is an old book, while still useful it definitely needs updating.

The New Savory Wild Mushroom Also dated but made for the PNW

Midwestern US

Mushrooms of the Midwest

Edible Wild Mushrooms of Illinois and Surrounding States

Mushrooms of the Upper Midwest

Southern US

Texas Mushrooms: A Field Guide

Mushrooms of the Southeastern United States

Common Mushrooms of Florida

A Field Guide to Southern Mushrooms It's old so you'll need to learn new names.

Eastern US

Mushrooms of West Virginia and the Central Appalachians

Mushrooms of Northeast North America (This was out of print for awhile but it's they're supposed to be reprinting so the price will be normal again)

Mushrooms of Northeastern North America

Macrofungi Associated with Oaks of Eastern North America(Macrofungi Associated with Oaks of Eastern North America)

Mushrooms of Cape Cod and the National Seashore

More specific (Advanced) guides

Psilocybin Mushrooms of the World

North American Boletes

Tricholomas of North America

Milk Mushrooms of North America

Waxcap Mushrooms of North America

Ascomycete of North America

Ascomycete in colour

Fungi of Switzerland: Vol. 1 Ascomycetes A series of 6 books.

Fungi Europaei A collection of 14 books.

PDFs and online Guides

For Pholiota

For Chlorophyllum

American species of Crepidotus

Guide to Australian Fungi If this is useful consider donating to this excellent set of guides.

Websites that aren't in the sidebar

For Amanita

For coprinoids

For Ascos

MycoQuebec: they have a kickass app but it's In French

Messiah college this has a lot of weird species for polypores and other things

For Hypomyces

Cultivation

The Mushroom Cultivator: A Practical Guide to Growing Mushrooms at Home (If your home is a 50,000 sq ft warehouse)

Organic Mushroom Farming and Mycoremediation: Simple to Advanced and Experimental Techniques for Indoor and Outdoor Cultivation

Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms

Mycology

The fifth kingdom beginner book, I would recommend this. It goes over fungal taxonomy Oomycota, Zygomycota and Eumycota. It also has ecology and fungi as food.

The kingdom fungi coffee table book it has general taxonomy of the kingdom but also very nice pictures.

Introduction to fungi Depends on your definition of beginner, this is bio and orgo heavy. Remember the fungi you see pop out of the ground (ascos and basidios) are only a tiny fraction of the kingdom.

NAMA affiliated clubs

Please visit www.arachnoboards.com - It is the best source for tarantula husbandry info out there. You will probably need to use the search function to find answers to specific questions, but if you have a question, with any likelihood it has been asked before. Definitely do some more research and get your enclosure setup before buying you spider. Other great sources of info are The Tarantula Keeper's Guide or This book or this one I would highly recommend reading at least one of these before bringing your spider home! Good luck, you're in for a fun time!

For a pocket guide I'd recommend All That the Rain Promises and More. It has a little bit of a bias towards species in western North America, but it's still very useful in the east (I'm in New England and I love it). Mushrooms Demystified is pretty big for taking into the field, but it is a great companion to ATtRPaM, and it is the best all around field guide for North America, in my opinion.

Ethical Concern: The GMO corn is trademarked by <insert well known chemical company here> and the seed is sold to farmers who invest in it. Corn propagates by wind, neighbor farmer did not buy in but now his seed stock is infiltrated and the trademark owners sue him for stealing seed stock or some other violation of copyright. Local farmer caves to relentless legal pressure, soon all food stock is owned by corporations. This could get really wild (The Windup Girl), but so far that's still sci-fi, right?

Environmental Concern: Most GMO crops are created by chemical companies who in turn make products effective on plants that were not created by them. Rather than taking time to work with the environment these companies amass petrochemical sprays (a further economical cost to the farmer as well) and bombard regions so their plant survives. This chemical mixture goes into the soil and water where it in turn effects us; you do know that ALL drinking water is recycled I hope.


So you might be right, there might not be concerns on the healthy diet level (though we all know how wonderful the American diet is for us all). But there are larger socioeconomic issues here as well. To lock this only on a healthy for diet issue is absurd. I highly recommend Botany of Desire (book or PBS) as the potato chapter is enlightening on this measure (from an economic standpoint). Basically; organic food is far more economic in terms of space, maintenance, and profit per square foot.

I make this comment a lot here, but nix the pine and get some hardwood. Poplar, maple, oak, whatever you can get. Don't be intimidated. It is actually easier to work than pine. Pine squished and tears. Tools need to be insanely sharp. This album I made demonstrates what I mean. You have a great start, just keep at it. Hardwood will be far less frustrating.

Also Tage Frid's book is an excellent guide. His hand cut dovetail method is spot on and simple using tools you most likely already have. It is also a great reference on all kinds of joinery done simply and effectively.

Also /u/screwikea has some good points about which way the tails go as well.

/r/plantedtank would likely be the best place for this question because freshwater is a very different experience to saltwater. Since I come from a planted freshwater background, I would say that it probably wouldn't do well.

Certainly there are some freshwater creatures that would work in a refugium, but many of them are insect larva that would eventually become something that you probably wouldn't want flying around your house. See damselflies, mosquitos, dragonflies, various beetles, etc.

You might be able to keep a small population of something like freshwater copepods, but they need green water which any filtration at all would destroy.

California blackworms might be a possibility, but I would still prefer to culture them outside the tank to make it easy to get rid of waste water. They don't necessarily need a refugium as they'll happily dig into the substrate at the bottom of the tank and live there until a fish plucks them out and eats them. I drop a small handful in my planted tank every few weeks or so to replenish their numbers.

The biggest advantage that freshwater aquarists have is an amazing variety of beautiful plants to use to reduce nitrates, phosphates and pollutants. A well planted tank will also grow all kinds of things like planaria and snails which can help keep some fish fed and round out the diets of others.

This is pretty much the bible of a 'natural' freshwater aquarium keeper. http://www.amazon.com/Ecology-Planted-Aquarium-Diana-Walstad/dp/0967377366

• I have a zoology degree too so that's a fantastic major :) Part of getting my degree included taking a Parasitology class. We had to do a lab about tapeworms, which meant extracting tapeworms from the intestines of a critter (don't want to go into too much detail...). The next day during lecture, our professor came in with a thermos and proceeded to scoop out long, white, stringy tapeworms, then EAT THEM! The whole class was freaking out when he started giggling and told us they were Ramen noodles. It was a class I will never forget no matter how much I'd like to!
  
  
• Most wonderful time
  
  
• Best of luck to you in your studies!
  
  
• In the school of life, I'm trying to learn more about gardening. This book would help me in my studies and to be a more efficient gardener. Thank you for the contest :)

Guarding is a normal dog behavior, but is definitely unwanted. I don't believe that any dog should ever allow another dog to take their chew or toy, so mainly I focus on making sure dogs can enjoy their chew in peace. Other pets are not allowed to approach one who has a chew. Anyway, guarding becoming scarily common in Goldens. Check out the book Mine! by Jean Donaldson, you'll find a wealth of great tips and advice.
Management is going to be extremely important. Don't let your dog have an opportunity to guard.
Also, WHO THE FUCK BRINGS A BONE TO A DOG PARK?!??!?!!

I would like to recommend a couple of books.
The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell. She has a PhD in behaviorism and has worked with a lot of aggressive dogs but she only uses positive reinforcement. Her book talks a lot about the difference between primates and canids (aka dogs) and how those differences create misunderstandings.

Bones Would Rain from the Sky by Suzanne Clothier. Suzanne has tons of experience with all kinds of animals. Her book focuses a lot on what it means to have a trusting, healthy relationship with dogs and I guarantee it will change the way you see your dog.

I also have a reactive border collie. You are on the right track with the hamburger treats while walking, but you need to not get your dog over threshold to the point where she can't focus on you or the treats any more. And more exercise is never a bad thing for a border collie, mental and physical.

Good luck!

Your first year I suggest growing vegetables like paste tomatoes and some nice roasting peppers. Paprika is a particular variety of sweet or hot peppers that have been dried and ground to a powder. Usually the grocery stores sell 2 varieties: Hot or sweet. Another redditor recommended the Alma peppers for a nice paprika.

Before you plant a large, fussy but interesting, tree get some experience under your belt. Gardening can be expensive and some of the more exotic and interesting plants and trees come with a big price tag. You can quickly kill many dollars. I did that when I first started my garden (but with perennial flowers) so, I'm trying to stop you from making (what can be) a costly mistake.

The best place to start is to get to know your garden site's sun and soil. Does it drain well? Does it need amendments? Is it full sun, partial sun or full shade?

A really good way to go is to first read Gaia's garden and plant smart with permaculture.

A cool and interesting 1-season plant that likes full sun and a trellis is loofah gourds.

Temperament is about 40% inherited and 60% experience. What's really interesting, though, is that that "60% experience" part is primarily shaped by experiences dogs have before they're 16 weeks old.

Weeks 6-16 are a "critical period" of socialization. Strategic socialization when you first being him home will help him grow up into a well-adjusted adult.
Here's a socialization checklist for things you'll want to cover.

The first page of the checklist has a scale to help you grade how he responds to each thing, so you can determine what you might need to work on more.

Don't forget things like the vacuum cleaner, umbrellas, shopping carts, strollers, different walking surfaces (hardwood, carpet, linoleum, concrete, grass, pavement, gravel), people of all ethnicities/ages, and people using canes/wheelchairs.

Also be sure to take him lots of new places to have positive experiences in a variety of environments. I love garden supply stores and home improvement stores for socialization - I go in with the puppy and treats and practice walking nicely on a leash. If I see people smiling at my puppy, I say that I'm there socializing him and ask if they'll give him a treat for sitting nicely.

I also highly recommend this book by Dr. Sophia Yin for helping map out your training plan.

It's a lot of work, but two months of daily work is SO WORTH IT for a well rounded dog for the ~10+ years. :)

> Can they climb glass? If so, I'd think they'd get hurt if they fell from near the top - could I fill the tank with substrate up to the point it would be safe for the spider?

Yes they can; ground spiders are more susceptible to falls. That will be A LOT of substrate. If you get an arboreal spider, it will be less of an issue.
> Also, what are the best types for a beginner? I've hear the chilean rose mentioned, and I had a friend in high school with a mexican redknee that was really really docile.

Those are good, ground spiders, but there's also A. avicularia - pink toe, which is a good docile spider.

> I live in North Idaho, so I'll have to get a tank heater. Would a pad be best? I can't imagine a spider liking a heat lamp - wouldn't it want to hide all the time? Also, besides crickets bought at a pet store, a very shallow water dish, and something for the spider to hide under, what else might I need?

Heat lamps are bad - too dry. Spot heated pad is good, but make sure there are non-heated parts so they can escape. Also, cricket food and water, and long forceps or tongs - crickets are obnoxious and tricky.

Get a spray bottle, coconut husk substrate, water dish, and I personally like a temperature and humidity sensor (analog dial ones - pretty cheap).

Also, pick up The Tarantula Keeper's Guide.

Good luck! Here's my setup.

I started with the book Stitch n Bitch which is a great intro. I soon realized that I don't learn well from diagrams, so I would watch Youtube videos while reading. The first thing I knit was a garter stitch scarf from that book.

Then I joined Ravelry. Ravelry is like an entire Reddit just for knitting/crocheting, with every resource you could want. There are thousands of great free patterns. It was overwhelming to me at first, so I picked the most popular easy patterns, like the Honey Cowl and Barley Hat.

Happy knitting :)

I really really love crocheting. Knitting I could take or leave.

I'd say generally if you're more interested in things like dolls and toys, learn crochet and if you're more interested in clothes and scarves, learn knitting. You can do both with either but I think crochet has a strength in shaping things and knitting has a strength in a smooth look which makes clothing decorations like cables look better.

If you do decide on knitting, I highly recommend the book Stitch n Bitch to get you started. It's really clear and has some nice beginners patterns. https://www.amazon.com/Stitch-n-Bitch-Knitters-Handbook/dp/0761128182

So first thing is first - any adversive methods such as a vibrating collar with a dog that has fear or anxiety is only going to backfire and promote more fear or anxiety. I would ditch that. You're potentially causing more behavior issues when it's used. Dog learns to hide fear rather than teaching the dog confidence.


So you have a dog that is likely reactive and fearful - and a lot of anxiety. So before we can get to work mode, we need to address the causes of the anxiety and get the dog back to neutral. So first thing, you might want to try doing a two week shut down with this dog. https://www.marshmallowfoundation.org/info/file?file=20866.pdf This is to remove all the stimuli that can keep causing stress levels to be high. Adrenaline - when it spikes up during a moment of fear or panic can take over 6 days for the hormone levels to return to normal. It's great that the dog is food motivated because that is going to make things like counter conditioning to specific things much easier... but right now - stress is so high, your dog cannot focus let alone retain the cues you're training. Dog is in fight or flight mode... So give the two week shut down an effort.


Meanwhile, you want to write down all the things this dog is reacting to... if it's potentially separation anxiety, check the links I provided below. Anything else, you're going to want to work on each thing separately using desensitization and counter conditioning. Again, we're trying to bring the fearful dog to a neutral place... work on building confidence and associating the list of stimuli with positive rewards. Any negative behaviors - redirect.... either remove the stimuli or remove the dog. Reinforce calm relaxed behaviors.


https://www.reddit.com/r/dogs/comments/48sglg/discussion_separation_anxiety/ has some great info that you may find useful.

Do take a glance over at /r/reactivedogs They have lots of helpful advice on how to manage some of these behaviors.


Some books that may help:
The Cautious Canine by Patricia McConnell

I’ll be Home soon by Patricia McConnell

Don’t Leave Me by Nicole Wilde


If after that two week shut down and working a bit you still feel a bit overwhelmed, it might be a good consideration to work with a certified animal behaviorist. https://avsab.org/resources/speakers-bureau/behavior-consultants-near-you/ and https://iaabc.org/consultants are great searches for one.

Sup homie,

Now firstly before I get into the actual books I am going to recommend Dan Carlin's Hardcore History podcast - He's effectively doing audiobooks via podcast these days (I'm actually re-listening to "Prophets of Doom" at the moment, it's about 4 hours 30 minutes of excellent storytelling of historical events) - Really, really recommend that. (you can also buy all the old episodes).


Now onto the History Nonfiction books themselves:



Michael Pollan - The Botany of Desire - While somewhat more of an analysis of how plants have become and evolved according to human cultivation the book does an excellent job of historically breaking down each major event and process involved.



John H. Mayer - Empire of Blue Water: Captain Morgan's Great Pirate Army, the Epic Battle for the Americas, and the Catastrophe That Ended the Outlaws' Bloody Reign - Title says it all. Pirates. Open seas. History. Strong recommend.



Alfred Lansing - Endurance - Shackleton's Incredible Voyage - If you love an amazing story of stoicism, heroism, and amazing leadership then anything about Shackleton should be on your list. This epic tale follows Sir Ernest Shackleton's voyage on the Endurance with the aim to cross the Antarctic - which failed. What happened next throughout the following months is an monument to the incredible spirit of a man, his crew, and the desire to get everyone home.

If you need more try looking into the below:

Niall Ferguson - The War of the World

William L. Shirer The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich A History of Nazi Germany

Andrew Roberts - The Storm of War

Jared Diamond - Guns, Germs, and Steel

Marcus Aurelius - Meditations

1. Definitely invest in a good basic home DIY book (you never know when the power/internet will go out and then where will Youtube be as you grapple around in the dark trying to fix your hot water heater?). This is the one my dad has: https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Yourself-Manual-Newly-Updated/dp/1621452018/ref=dp_ob_title_bk
   
   
2. Keep all manuals for appliances and read them (especially things like washers/dryers, ovens, etc.). Proper care will extend the life of all appliances and can prevent dangerous incidents like fires or floods due to misuse or wear & tear.
   
   
3. Prevention is always better than cure! For example, a toilet plunger and a sink plunger are two things you want to have on hand before you need them. Invest in some basic tools - a multihead screwdriver, hammer, wrenches and a power drill will definitely come in handy.
   
   
4. On a similar note, learn where everything is (I know this sounds basic, but you'd be amazed at what people don't know about their own homes) e.g. shutoff valves for each toilet/sink, the shutoff for the water to the whole house, breaker box, etc.
   
   
5. When you're buying the house, ask as many questions as possible before the sale: What kind of wiring does it have? Has the roof been redone recently? How about the brick pointing if applicable? How old is the furnace? Are their warranties on any of the structural elements like the roof? Is it transferable to a new owner? Make sure you know all this stuff and write it down in a "house bible" if you will - that way if something goes wrong and you need to hire a professional, you can answer their questions quickly and efficiently.
   
   
6. Finally, when it comes to fixing things know your limits. It's great to learn DIY and try projects yourself, but remember that there are professionals out there for a reason! If you're not sure, put down the hammer and ask - ask an expert, ask at Home Depot, ask your friends/family, ask the internet, but have all the facts before you start.

Any dog can resource guard and you can accidentally train a puppy to resource guard if you aren't careful. Jean Donaldson wrote a wonderful book on how to tackle resource guarding if you happen to have a dog that does it with toys, people, food or places.

If you aren't comfortable with how the shelter screens potential families then you might not want to get a dog. Shelters are working hard to prevent dogs from being returned numerous times because families really don't seem to understand breed tendencies and always go on "oh he's cute" rather than get an idea of what the dogs behavior is actually like. They work hard to match you to the best dog for your family and lifestyle. A good corgi breeder will do the same thing and will want to get to know you and your family before placing a dog in your home. Likewise with a corgi rescue. If you aren't willing to go through that process please don't get a purebred dog at all.

I don't recommend getting a corgi from a backyard breeder or a pet store because you'll end up with some very expensive vet bills and quite possibly some expensive dog training bills in the end. I worked as a dog trainer for a number of years and I could spot the pet store and backyard breeder puppies a mile away. Owners had the same complaints - couldn't potty train, the puppies were sick when they came home or shortly after and were always having behavior issues like biting people and children.

If you have a family with a small child I recommend getting an older corgi from a rescue that is at least 2 years old. Their personality and behavior will be fully set and you will know exactly what you are getting. The rescue should help you figure out if it is a good fit for your home.

As far as a corgi as a running partner I caution you against running a corgi or any dog constantly on pavement. Dogs put a lot of pressure on their knees and shoulders and pavement running just isn't good for them or their paw pads. If you are going to run with your corgi do it on grass or dirt.

I wrote a guideline on how to find a good corgi breeder and I suggest that any potential corgi owner read it.

Congrats, I'd say make sure to set boundaries, and closely watch them to make sure they aren't getting into anything you would consider deviant behavior. It's important to calmly work on correcting it while they go, so it doesn't become a habit you have to try and untrain. I just picked up Dr. Sophia Yin's Perfect Puppy in 7 days, and have a post here about being at my wit's end with the 4 month ACD/Terrior mix I have been trialing. I can't say it's solved all my problems, since I'm either going to give up, or start all over with training, but I really wish I had read her book first. It's not that long, so you should hopefully have time to get through at least the first few chapters which after reading, helped me realize why things have been so frustrating for me.

I was used to cats, and when I brought home the puppy, she was adorable, happy, and mild mannered, so I just let her roam while keeping a constant eye on her. She pretty much developed one bad habit after another, and while trying to push her to get better with DIY training, I was getting nowhere because I was trying to solve several issues without looking at the underlying cause.

Bingo. There's a whole school of study and thought around the concept of animals and plants which have taken the evolutionary route of being useful and harvestable to another species in order for themselves to thrive. I highly recommend The Botany of Desire by Michael Pollan, which explores how the apple, the tulip, marijuana, and the potato have all evolved to serve a specific human desire. Good stuff. Personally, I'm fond of chickens. There are more than 20 billion chickens on Earth at any given time simply because they're delicious and relatively easy to raise for harvest. It's a great strategy, chickens aren't going extinct any time soon. In a way, they're gaming the system.

If you're looking for a vegetable gardening book, my favorite one is Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew. It's got everything you need to know about successfully starting and growing a basic vegetable garden from scratch.

I think the best part about this book is that the methods explained in it are pretty much a fool-proof way of growing great plants the very first time. As you gain more first-hand experience, you can start to add, remove or tweak things that make will improve your garden even more.

i can personally attest to the benefits of building your garden this way. i think i pulled 2 weeds all season and my tomatoes, peppers, sunflowers and lettuce did great! i have already started next year's garden and can't wait to try a few new things! some added bonuses (other than not having to till) are that with this technique you don't have to disrupt the ecosystem under the soil and the cardboard actually draws the worms up into your garden, adding even more fertilizer. i will never build garden any other way! an excellent book that talks about this and other ways to create and work with a natural ecosystem is gaia's garden. it teaches you how to have a beautiful, useful yard/space with minimal work.

Have you tried knitting? I taught myself with books and YouTube videos about ten years ago. I just finished this a couple days ago! (It looks like this, I made it to take with me to the movie theater in the summer when I'm always cold.) I know it seems like an old lady hobby, but I started when I was 22, and my goes and scarves and sweaters are nicer, warmer, and hold up much longer than the acrylic junk you buy at Target and Walmart.

This book is what finally made it click for me, as well as the site knittinghelp.com. Another excellent resource is [Ravelry] (http://www.ravelry.com) which is like your own online knitting notebook, pattern search, and forums in one. And it's free!

Handling isn't recommended for many reasons. Any tarantula should be considered unpredictable, because they are ultimately wild animals and their mood can change in an instant. For example: I recently saw pictures from a guy who was adjusting the water dish in his G. pulchripes' enclosure. Now, G. pulchripes are like the old beagle of the T world; they're mellow, slow, and never bite people. However, the T felt vibrations and, acting on a feeding response, bit this guy on the hand. Luckily this was a T that has very low venom, but this can happen with any tarantula, and is more likely to happen with more defensive species (i.e. the one pictured hanging off of your shirt).

The other reason that handling is not recommended: You could hurt or kill your T. This is especially true for tarantulas that are not arboreal, which E. murinus is definitely not (they're a burrowing species, pretty much the opposite). If they drop from any significant height, they are at great risk of splitting their abdomen and "bleeding" to death. If she's hanging off of your shirt, she was at a very high risk of falling and dieing-- please do not do that again if you want to avoid a split abdomen and dead T.

I hope I'm not coming off as preachy or like I'm jumping on your back-- I just want you to understand the risk to you and your tarantula that is involved when you handle it. They don't enjoy being handled, and they can never get used to it or learn to like it; they literally don't have the capacity to. Every time you handle them, it's new stimulus and they will react to it different every time.

Edit: I'm seeing that you only have experience with G. rosea. After only experiencing that species, it's not recommended that you jump immediately to such a defensive species but she's yours now so there's no going back. If you haven't, do some research on the care of this species. They're burrowers and will need a decent amount of substrate to burrow and be happy. Also, if you haven't bought it already, buy the Tarantula Keeper's Guide, everyone who keeps tarantulas should own one. Also, make yourself a profile over at Arachnoboards. It's a great (large) community of very experienced tarantula hobbyists who can answer any and all questions that you have. The man who literally wrote the book on tarantulas, Stan Schultz, frequents the forum and answers questions, and there are men and women there who have been in the hobby since the 60's or 70's. It's a really great place with a lot of information :)

Usually, for every magickal endeavor you want to make incense for, there is a household correspondence that you can use to make it. We wouldn't be Witches if we weren't crafty, right?

Some texts that will help you find correspondences (If you can't buy them yourself, you can always browse them at a bookstore and take notes. Places like Barnes and Nobles carries these kinds of books. They are worth buying secretly and sneaking home, imho.) :

• Cunningham's Magickal Herbs
  
  
• Cunningham's Incense, Oils, and Brews
  
  
• Cunningham's Magical Herbalism: The Secret Craft of the Wise
  
  and while you're at it, for extra sneakyness:
  
  
• Cunningham's Encyclopedia of Wicca in the Kitchen
  
  There are other books out there about herbalism, but Cunningham's books are simple and effective primers to get you started down the road towards Herbalism. Just remember, there is WAY more advanced stuff out there, and if you care to learn it, you can.
  
  For more immediate help regarding making incense, A video about Herbalism from Cunningham: [Herb Magick] (http://youtu.be/Mn6B2m1pLoE). The video may not have an extensive correspondence list, but it'll get you down the road.
  
  PLEASE DON'T POISON YOURSELF.

Not specifically Wiccan but potentially some form of witchcraft. Wicca is a pagan religion that employs witchcraft in its rituals whereas "witchcraft" is a category and as a whole pertains to various types of folk magic (thus, Wicca is just one form, there are other types of witchcraft). Most of what is encountered in the US is Neopagan witchcraft, which is mostly derived from European folk magic. However, (outside of Neopaganism) there is also Afro-American Hoodoo (rootwork, conjuring) which sometimes calls for burying objects as well. Depending on your location, there could be a stronger likelihood of the latter.

When it comes to Neopaganism, basically you have individuals who pursue some traditional style of spellcasting (either utilizing traditional methods or drawing inspiration from them) while others create spells with symbolism they've created. However, a difficulty with pinpointing what something buried could be is that the largest segment of Neopaganism is Eclectic, i.e., practitioners who develop highly individualized systems that draw on various sources in addition to personal innovations.

So, you're not necessarily going to be able to look at something and determine what the person who placed it there practiced or what they intended. There can be general indications. E.g., anything with a poppet (doll) would indicate it's a spell either for or against a person, discerning which can potentially be puzzled out by what else is with it.

In terms of identifying magical use and lore regarding herbs, the best book (IMO) on it would be The Master Book of Herbalism Paperback by Paul Beyerl

Scott Cunningham was a prolific writer and while there is debate over his books regarding Wicca, he was well regarded for his knowledge in herbalism and magic. His books are an easy read, such as:

Cunningham's Encyclopedia of Magical Herbs & Book of Incense Oils and Brews by Scott Cunningham


Catherine Yrodwode is well regarded in the practice of Hoodoo, she runs the luckymojo.com website and has authored various books, here's a link to one of her online articles:

Laying Down Tricks & Disposing of Ritual Remnants in the Hoodoo Tradition - Catherine Yronwode


These just scratch the surface and there plenty of other sources others might cite, but these will give you a sense of direction.

this book is a nice older resource for the magical uses of herbs. This article is a very simple primer to give an idea of kitchen witchcraft. You can also use resources like
http://www.witchipedia.com for a starting point if you just need general knowledge on something. this live journal article (What a throw back website!) has a lot of suggestions for books in different areas of kitchen witchery.

One of the easiest things you can do is start working intent into your daily, weekly rituals that already exist: banish as you clean, bless as you cook, etc. I like how this page lists some examples of how to work in a bit of kitchen witchcraft to your life. Kitchen witchcraft has an inherent magical quality that is actually super easy to incorporate.

I definitely suggest you start noting things down as you come across them, either digitally or in a physical book. This will help you learn as well as form the foundation of your grimoire/ book of shadows/ whatever you choose to call it.

Cc: /u/vampiras

I am relatively new to this subject and these books have been useful for me:

The Urban Homestead A good introductory book that touches on a lot of relevant topics.

Gaia's Garden This is not specifically a homesteading book but it is a very useful book for growing food and learning about small scale permacultural design.

Four Season Harvest Another useful book for growing, especially for those of us in cold climates.

Country Wisdom & Know How A fun reference for many homestead topics.

Here's a fantastic introductory book on positive dog training techniques:
The power of positive dog training

Get the book. Even if you're not a "reader", the middle section is essentially workshops on training certain tricks.

I have to admit, when I first got my dog last year, I just assumed that dominance was the way to train a dog. Mainly because of our good friend Cesar Milan. However, as soon as I picked this book up I realised the error of my ways.

How can you convince your boyfriend that positive is the way forward? Try and get him involved. Pick up that book, get him to pick a trick from the book to teach your dog. It will be a real eye opener.

Another important point that has been mentioned by others - you both need to be consistent. Him hitting the dog for misbehaving while you're using positive techniques will be counter productive. It is very easy to miscommunicate with negative training techniques. He can be essentially poisoning your training, especially as he has no clue what he's doing.

Good luck!

Yeah, don't worry, you can do it! If you enjoy books, the best intro to science-based training methods that I've read so far is The Power of Positive Dog Training by Pat Miller. It's simple but pretty comprehensive for the things most dog owners run into.

If you can give us more detail about the behaviors you want to discourage and the ones you want to encourage, we can help you come up with an action plan that you both can enjoy doing.

I want to second Sophia Yin's book Perfect puppy in 7 days.

About the chewing. You have lots of toys for her which is awesome. If you're not doing this now you may want to try rotating the toys in and out so she doesn't get bored with any of them and continue to redirect like you're doing already. Also, a nice thing for a teething puppy to chew on are frozen things - my pup likes frozen carrots, I think it feels good on their gums. I've also heard about freezing a washcloth and letting them chew on it, that might feel good too. Keep it up, it sounds like you're doing great!

Getting a trainer may be helpful, but honestly, you're already doing a lot of good things. SA can take a lot of time and patience to work through. I remember it took my dog months to work through it, and it helped to leave the tv on while we were gone (something soft, soothing, and droning, like talk shows or a shopping channel). Medication might be a next step, or at least a way to help mitigate the effects until training takes hold. It's worth asking your vet about.

I'll Be Home Soon by Patricia McConnell is a good book on SA.

This is an amazing book for learning what can fit where. Remember that it is more for advanced gardeners so start small. Use it as a guide on long term plans.

This is a great guide to low-cost or free soil creation/amendment It also has a great guide to growing almost every veggie/herb. It works amazingly as a substitution for the very expensive recommended soil in This great guide to planting closer together to avoid weeds

Some ideas for reducing water usage:

Sub-Irrigation (there are a great many ways to do this, this is just one)

Hugelkultur Looks like shit but creates an amazing wood "sponge" under your gardens. After 2 years you pretty much don't need to water again (if done correctly). You also get a constant stream of nutrients from the wood breaking down. It is possible to "contain" hugelkultur beds to create more of a "I mean to do this!" order so people don't think you are just piling shit up everywhere.

Welcome axxx. I am on similar acreage and also grow organic vegetables. I'm going into my second season and I'm making many changes after all the mistakes I made last year! It's great to hear that there is a community of farmers helping each other out. We got many seeds in last week as well and put them under fluorescents in the basement. I am striving to create a sustainable farm.

Here are some resources if you don't know of them:

National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service -http://attra.ncat.org/

Excellent science based gardening book that has made me update my practices - http://www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microbes-Organic-Gardeners-Revised/dp/1604691131/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1301667399&sr=1-1

Do you know these guys? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSvLkh5oOsY&feature=related No-till is less energy intensive and makes the soil healthier. I am going to be experimenting with it this year.

How many years have you been after it? Would love to discuss farming anytime. Glad to have you.

Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking.

This three piece set (the last is frequently left out because it's mostly plans for his furniture, but there's excellent info in it as well) is a comprehensive guide to woodworking, in no-nonsense fashion, from the ground up. Tage goes over hand tools, sharpening, power tools, etc...

The guy was an editor at Fine Woodworking for years, as well as being a professional craftsman, as well as a teacher for many years. He knows his stuff, articulates it in a legible fashion, and doesn't get caught up in hand tool vs power tool trends, etc...

http://www.amazon.com/Tage-Frid-Teaches-Woodworking-Step-By-Step/dp/1561580686

Since you say that you live in a rural area do you live in a house with a yard? One really good way of saving money on food is to start a garden. Gardening is a skill that is fun and can be learned. It is also a fun hobby. If you use the raised bed method then there is almost no maintenance work needed once you have it all set up. Another popular method is Square Foot Gardening. If you use permaculture methods then there is no need to constantly buy fertilizer.

From September to November we will be spending $0 on buying fruit. The apple and pear trees from the community garden provides all the fruit we need for this period. All you can eat pears and apples does get a bit boring after a while though. We have enough winter squash to last us into next year.

Our community garden patch is 30x30 feet. We don't grow food on all of it. It supplies most of our vegetables during the fall.

We kind of overdid it on the Swiss Chard this year. Been eating way to much of that stuff. The beets were nice this year as well. (Don't forget that you can eat beet greens.) Still eating the potatoes from the fall harvest. Hopefully they will last till Christmas but I'm not sure. The New Zealand spinach was nice as well. The yellow zucchini was really nice. The tomatoes were wonderful.

I have a very neurotic/anxious dog and the best thing I can suggest is time. She was on clomicalm (dog prozac) for 2 years. We tried crating her at first but she kept making her nose bleed by trying to shove it through the wires. So for the first few months we didn't crate her at all, but left her in the bathroom. She scratched the hell out of the door, but oh well. When we were home we tried to get her used to the crate (putting treats in the crate and letting her get them out, then putting her in the crate for increasing amounts of time while we were home, then finally leaving her in the crate while we ran a short errand...etc).
These books (I'll be home soon and Don't leave me) were extremely helpful.

Eventually we were able to crate her full time (a friend who works nearby let her out at lunch). She never liked the crate like some dogs do. Sometimes she would go in when we told her "Ok time to get in your crate." Sometimes we had to put her in there. Everytime she gave us the most pitiful look. For a while she would poop in the crate (out of anxiety, she was house trained) and we would have to clean the crate everyday (and I'd rather her poop in there than injure herself). But eventually that stopped. Suffice to say she never liked the crate, but she didn't injure herself.

Now she roams free during the day (we did it similar to how she was crated...first for short periods, then longer) and she does fine with it.

Separation anxiety is so difficult and frustrating. Just keep at it and keep trying. It's a long process and there's no 100% fix. Just patience (and love, at the risk of sounding corny). Try to introduce him to the crate slowly. Even if he doesn't like the crate, he can learn to tolerate it. And definitely get help from a behaviorist if you're able. We didn't go so far as hiring one, but I went to a few free "anxious dogs" seminars given by a behaviorist that were sponsored by a local dog rescue (where I was recommended the books above) and it gave me a lot of insight.

Hang in there and don't give up!

YouTube is good. Google is good. This book is good. Friends and family are good. This sub is good.

A lot of home improvement projects are actually surprisingly simple. Swapping out a light fixture, for example, is usually pretty much just disconnecting a couple wires from the old one and reconnecting them to the new one exactly the same way. Whatever it is, just start small, take your time, triple check everything before you do something irreversible, and remember that it's your house so you want to do it right.

I know contest is over but I wanted to recommend this book. Great info in first couple chapters and then she has great clicker training activities. This totally helped me bond with my dog when she was a puppy. And she learned some great behaviors.

Meds aren't going to fix your dog's SA without training, but they can definitely help with training. I would recommend working with a behaviorist and picking up a copy of Treating Separation Anxiety in Dogs, I'll Be Home Soon, and Don't leave me!, as well as talking with your vet about medications. There are several prescriptions that can help with SA, and your vet is your best bet for finding one that works for you and your dog.

Since you have trazadone I'm going to assume you have already talked to your veterinarian about your dog's anxiety. If that is not the case, please discuss it with your vet.

The behaviorists are pricy, but they're an excellent resource and worth the money. I'd definitely stick with either a Veterinary Behaviorist or an Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist over a regular trainer, anybody can call themselves a trainer while CAABs and VBs have tons of education and experience. They can tailor advice to your specific dog and your specific household in a way a book or video cannot.

I am by no means an expert (I'm a vet tech at a general-practice clinic) but my go-to recommendations for behavior books are Decoding Your Dog by the American College of Veterinary behaviorists, (it has a chapter on house training and a chapter on separation anxiety) and The Other End of the Leash (it's about understanding dogs and how they think rather than specific issues) by Patricia McConnell. Patricia McConnell also has books (booklets? they're short) about anxiety and separation anxiety. I've never read the booklets, but she's a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist with a Ph.D, so they're probably a better resource than random internet sites even if they're not as helpful as an in-person consultation with a behaviorist.

Well I'm glad to hear it, and even more glad you weren't offended!

I'd go with these as good places to start:

Zak George

Puppy Primer

Don't Shoot the Dog

Other End of the Leash

Kikopup on youtube has a TON of amazing videos on puppy raising too. Well worth checking out. :)

Sorry you had a rough weekend. Two things that stand out from you post is that your dog is overaroused outside and has resource guarding issues.

Resource guarding is pretty common, dogs either guard from humans or other dogs or both. Dogs can guard food, toys, spaces (bed, couch etc), people and more. Since it is so common there are a lot of resources out there. Start with the book Mine! to learn about resource guarding and how train it.

As for the overarousal outside I recommend the Relaxation Protocol. It is amazing! Here is a writeup about what it is and some mp3 files that talk you through the process. Start inside your house and then slowly work you way outside (backyard or low distraction area first).

Working with a trainer is a great idea. Make sure they've worked with these issues before. There are plenty of good trainers who can teach a dog to sit or come but don't have experience with behavioral issues. How may resource guarding clients have they had? What was the outcome? Would they be ok with you contacting a previous client who had resource guarding issues as a referral? It is great that you recognize there is a problem and you're willing to work it. It is not too late to start training and helping Maya :)

Test kits aren't a bad idea; but yeah. I can see how that might come across as preachy.

I wouldn't recommend CO2. CO2 is kind of fiddly; there's all kinds of fish-killing potential with a pressurized CO2 setup. If she's not up to using test kits then CO2 is probably not a good idea.

Have you considered books? I guess most people go online these days; but a book can actually be really nice to have. This one is neat; it's got colour photos and (really) short caresheets for most fish (and plants). This one is awesome if you want to learn how planted tanks work. These ones will make you feel completely inadequate about your fish tank (but are good inspiration for aspiring aquascapers).

Congrats on your new puppy, /u/ALancreWitch ! It's such a big and wonderful life change - I remember when my then-boyfriend and I brought home our puppers 6 years ago. Kind of like having a baby! It's exhausting with all of the things to do and keep straight. These two resources helped me out tremendously and I hope they might help you too! These two authors are world-famous veterinary behaviourists that really pioneered clicker training (which is how all service dogs, police dogs, zoo animals and animal actors are trained).

The first is a free PDF (Called After You Get Your Puppy by Ian Dunbar):
https://www.dogstardaily.com/files/downloads/AFTER_You_Get_Your_Puppy.pdf

And this e-book is just amazing:
https://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Puppy-Days-Start-Right/dp/0964151871/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526474908&sr=8-1&keywords=perfect+puppy+in+7+days

You're absolutely right to try and take time for yourselves to settle in as a new family of three. How frustrating that your parents bulldozed over your wishes! My own nMom constantly undermined me regarding our dog. The last straw was when she fed him something that she knew he wasn't supposed to have and caused him to get sick (he's fine now). I hope you find your shiny spine well before I did!

Seconded for "The art of raising a puppy" by the Monks of New Skete as a fantastic start to fundamentals of dog training, with a couple of personal amendments:

• Tug of war is a fantastic tool to be used to teach how to have a soft mouth when asked. Make sure they know how to drop it when you ask and you won't have a problem
  
  
• The tip about grabbing a dog's paws when he jumps up and holding on to make him uncomfortable I have found to not work, since the dog just finds it to be a fun game. Better to put your hand directly in front of his face as he is about to jump up to stop it completely
  
  
• treats are an essential tool to training and can be phased out over time. They suggest to just use praise which is great especially for mouth-based tasks but not in all circumstances
  
  
• one thing I don't think they mentioned: a toy by itself isn't interesting to a dog (unless it squeaks, in which case it probably is interesting to him but annoys the hell out of you..) so don't think that because your dog sniffed a new toy and lost interest he doesn't like it. You have to make it fun and interesting and he'll be hooked. You'll definitely find preferences, but don't be bringing home new toys every night just to "keep him interested." You make the toys he has already fun and engaging by playing with them WITH him
  
  Hardcopy
  
  Audiobook

Great work!

I put in several similar beds last spring as well. I've been gardening for nearly a decade now, but this is my first year doing raised beds using Mel Bartholomew's Square Foot method. I plan to dabble in some permaculture techniques eventually.

I can't say enough about the Square foot gardening if you want to maximize the yield in smaller spaces. I grew 8 tomatoes using the described method--1 plant per square foot--and several others using my previous method of "let 'em bush out like mad".

For larger indeterminate tomatoes, I'll never go back to the bush growing ways. The bush method works best for determinate and small tomatoes like cherries or grapes. For the square foot method the idea is to build an 8ft tall trellis and train them vertically. Pinch all suckers off once or twice weekly, which results in a single vertical stem/vine per plant rather than a giant tomato bush.

You'll get less yield per plant, but considerably higher yield per square foot of space. Tomatoes grown this way ripen quickly, and entire sets of fruit ripen together. The fruit is more uniform and less likely to be damaged by pests, and it's dramatically easier to harvest. It takes a bit more management to keep them pruned and trained, but it's well worth it come harvest time. I can't suggest it enough.

The square foot method isn't as great for some other veggies, however. Brassicae (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, etc) need way more than 1 sq foot per plant. Want to grow squash or melon? Better dedicate an entire bed to it. I was shocked at how well it works for tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, cucumbers, salad greens, herbs, etc though.

I don't thinks so, really! There are lots of great books for beginners, the one I learned from is Stitch 'n Bitch, along with help from my dad. The Yarn Harlot is another great resource - I really love everything she writes.

If you know somebody who knits, they're usually thrilled to help somebody learn. You can also see if you've got a yarn store nearby that does classes, or rec centers will do classes sometimes too.

I don't think the water bowl is the issue -- dogs are rarely protective of their water sources and usually don't mind sharing water from the same bowl. I think your cat got too close to your husky's food while she was eating, and she got a little defensive about it. A quick fix is to put water bowls in a different place than food bowls.

Understand that while this behavior is unacceptable by human standards, resource guarding is a very natural behavior for dogs. After all, a predator with no predisposition to defend its resources probably wouldn't last long enough to reproduce in the wild. It's not always preventable, no matter what we do, but there are things we can do to help curb this behavior.

> Her food supply has never been threatened and she's never gone hungry.

Unfortunately, as counter-intuitive as it sounds, the mere virtue of having a constant food supply and never going hungry doesn't prevent resource guarding -- it's simply written in their genetic code.

I recommend getting "Mine!" by Jean Donaldson. It's a quick read that can really help explain what resource guarding is, why it happens, and gives you steps on how to make your dog feel more comfortable with others around her resources.