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Just some tips that I learned over the years...

1. Tools and know how to use them, safely. http://www.reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/1xeyuf/home_improvement_faq_my_first_toolbox/ - I started out with Harbor Freight tools and purchased better stuff that I used more often.
   
   
2. Probably the most common thing around the house to fix/repair is drywall. This should be pretty easy. Learning how to do the common textures, such as, Knockdown, Orange Peel, etc.. Painting, which should be pretty easy, but there are a ton of articles that have good tips on preventing common mistakes,
   
   
3. Since you're thinking about knocking down walls... learn basic woodworking and home structure. I personally liked this book: http://www.amazon.com/dp/1600854923/ - which basically covers just about everything you can do with renovating. If you're building a bar... you may want to make your first project be a workbench or something simple, which will also be useful for building cabinetry and what not. It talks about also different materials/tools for the job at hand, which is useful.
   
   
4. Building Codes... probably a good idea to know different building code standards, if you ever plan on selling the house. You'll want to make sure that it stays up to code for any project you do. You don't want to end up creating a potential fire hazard that may cost you $ in the future. I can't stress it enough, safety first. If you're tearing down walls, be sure you're not cutting into electrical wires and what not.
   
   
5. Electrical, basic electrical knowledge will help. E.g. knowing about circuits, circuit breaker operation, safety, etc.
   
   
6. Planning out your project ahead of time, will help you avoid costly mistakes, prep you for what tools/materials you'll need. Don't be like me and dive head first. Usually when I deviate from this, my projects come out less than desired. So plan ahead of time.
   
   
7. In the end, the best way to learn, is to plan your project and just go out and do it. Take your time. Don't rush it. Start with small projects where you can afford to make mistakes. Having a carpenter in the family also will help for things that you're not sure on, plus you can probably borrow some of the more expensive tools.
   
   

I am currently dealing with this. I had to take down a small portion of a plaster ceiling and dust covered the entire house. I also did some small wall repairs that caused a layer of dust on every surface of my house. I went on a research tear (internet and talked to every expert I know as I work in the hvac industry). Here’s what I learned and what I now do to protect me and my family:

First, some facts:

• Lead is not your only enemy. When you drill into a wall you could potentially be drilling into asbestos and pulling that out from behind the wall and into the air. (Asbestos was banned in 1970’s, so your house almost definitely has some hidden in the walls)
  
• Lead is heavy and falls to the floor pretty fast, so inhalation isn’t much of a concern except for you when you’re doing the job. The biggest risk there is if you have pets or kids playing on the floor where the dust eventually settles.
  
• Asbestos is extremely light and will hang in the air for 2-3 days before finally settling.
  
• People who develop asbestos related lung disease are those who inhaled large quantities of asbestos on the job for decades without taking proper precaution (because they didn’t know. Bummer.). That’s not to say you shouldn’t protect yourself on the job, but you also shouldn’t lose sleep about dying of mesothelioma.
  
• The size of a lead atom: 1 micron
  
• the size of asbestos particles: .3 to .7 microns
  
• NOT ALL HEPA FILTERS ARE CREATED EQUAL. You must read the specification for the hepa filter you plan to buy. If it doesn’t filter out particles <= .3 microns - or doesn’t specify information on the particle size - don’t buy it for the purpose of filtering lead and asbestos. All you’ll be doing is kicking it back up into the air.
  
• Most household hepa vacuum cleaners are rated for allergens (dander, etc) and NOT lead and asbestos particles.
  
  With that, when you’re on the job, here’s what you do:
  
  
• Get yourself a proper mask to work with that supports filters you can change. Make sure you get the right filters. They must be specifically rated for lead and asbestos:
  
  This 3M face mask with 2091 filters will protect you:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZZZ7JU
  
  If you buy filters other than 9021 make sure you read the specification to ensue that they’re rated for particles at least as small as .3 microns.
  
  
• Buy a shop vac with an appropriate hepa filter that also supports tool attachments. I use this one and it works amazing:
  
  Vacmaster 8 Gallon HEPA
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ULBA4W
  
  It’s rated for the type of work we’re doing. You can attach a sander to it and it’ll suck up most of the dust before it hits the floor/air. It’s not 100%, but It’s way better than 0%. It’s also the most affordable one I could find.
  
  
• Remove or cover any furniture in the room (big jobs or sanding)
  
  
• Create negative air pressure in rooms where you’re going to create a lot of dust. This is easier than it sounds. You basically cover all doorways with plastic and duct tape and get a fan blowing out of a window. You can buy plastic sheets with zippers so you can easily go in and out of the room (try to limit this, though, and strip off your outer layer of clothes before leaving the room if you’ve created a lot of dust). You know you have negative air pressure when you turn on your fan and he plastic sheets are getting sucked into the room instead of pushed out. This will ensure that 90% of the dust is blown outside where it can safely spread out into the atmosphere.
  
  Here’s a short video on what negative air looks like:
  
  https://youtu.be/JvAOVT9CVVY
  
  
• if your super paranoid, you can ask your family to leave while you do the work.
  
  Now, when you’re done with the work, it’s time to clean up. Here’s the safest way to do that:
  
  

1. Put an air purifier with a properly rated hepa filter in the room and leave it for a day. This will let the dust settle while clearing the air of lingering dust. Austin air makes great air purifiers for this kind of dust, but they’re pricey)
   
2. Water reduces dust particles from being kicked up in the air by 80-90%. All you need to do is use a spray mist (use pump bottle that hair dressers use) to wet all surfaces where dust can settle. It doesn’t need to be soaked, just misted.
   
3. Use your hepa shop vac to vacuum up the dust from everywhere you just sprayed.
   
4. Mist the plastic you used to seal off the room.
   
5. Slowly roll up the plastic as you remove it so that the part that was inside the room is getting covered. Put directly into a contractor bag, seal it and throw it away.
   
6. Leave the air purifier running for a few days.
   
   Hope this helps!!
   
   Edit: changed when asbestos was banned from 1978 to the 1970s as it was phased out until 1980.

This is going to seem like a weird suggestion but hear me out:

Martha Stewart's Homekeeping Handbook.

If you just see the cover, you'll be like, "um, I don't need a book to tell me how to wash windows, k thx bye."

But a picture of the cover doesn't show the Bible-like thickness of this book. It's like 750 pages and is a comprehensive guide to living in a house. Covers everything you should be doing to maintain a house on a daily, weekly, monthly, yearly basis. Covers how to manage specific rooms. Covers how to deal with pets. Covers everything from how to wash and fold clothes to how to repair the plumbing to the washing machine. Covers everything from how to clean a lampshade to how to add a new lightswitch. Has a "materials library" where it goes over every possible material things could be made out of in your home and how to care for them.

It's absurd how in-depth it is. It's basically everything you'll "find out the hard way" about owning a home over 30 years, the easy way and without the wait.

But, if you're looking to go beyond "how to be a homeowner," the Reader's Digest/Family Handyman "Complete Do-it-Yourself Manual is the single best resource for all your DIY home improvement heavy lifting.

Some things I would do in addition to changing locks and a deep clean...

Test out and explore the circuit breaker. Know what does what outlets/lights/etc.

Replace all of the smoke detectors if you don't know how old they are. Most are only rated for 10 years. Get a CO combo unit as well. Could save your life later. Pick up a fire extinguisher as well and check it whenever you check your fridge filter (or furnace filter if the fridge doesn't have water filter).

Clean your oven. Always good to have a fresh start.

Have stained woodwork? Invest in a wax stick and stain marker that matches the existing trim to repair any nicks and scratches that happen when you move in :)

Most importantly...remember there is no rush on many repairs. Water is something best repaired as soon as discovered...but little things you may find annoy you (like the off-white outlets and switches) are things you can tackle whenever you deem fit. Owning a home is not as difficult as many people make it out to be. You already have found a good resource. Here is another one I would suggest:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1621452018/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile

Most of all...enjoy your home. Remember to relax and share it with others...especially those you care about. Wish you the best!

Sounds like something like this may do what you want, but I do not believe it will come cheap.

I currently have 2 thermostats in my home, one for AC/heat, and one for just heat. I swapped them both out for these wifi thermostats, which are programmable from a web interface or smartphone app. You can easily set the temperature from your phone, rather than having to visit each individual thermostat to change temperatures. This will likely be a much more cost effective solution to what you want to do.

If you must have smart thermostats, you could do the same with their smart thermostat versions or Ecobee as opposed to having a smart hub with remote sensors.

>Since the wiring for the heat and a/c are in two different places

I had the same situation in my house. What I wound up doing is running a new T-stat wire from the air handler in my attic down to the location of the thermostat for the heater. This allowed me to combine a separate AC and heat t-stat into a single t-stat.

YouTube is good. Google is good. This book is good. Friends and family are good. This sub is good.

A lot of home improvement projects are actually surprisingly simple. Swapping out a light fixture, for example, is usually pretty much just disconnecting a couple wires from the old one and reconnecting them to the new one exactly the same way. Whatever it is, just start small, take your time, triple check everything before you do something irreversible, and remember that it's your house so you want to do it right.

the buy it for life crowd will always argue for superior quality and buying a good tool. However another random redditor once summarized a different pragmatic:
"Buy a cheap tool, if it does the job you win. If you use it enough to break it you now are justified on buying the good version that might last you a lifetime."
I love harbor freight for economy cheap hand tools.

My exception is buy a good drill/driver. My current house might be close to 50% held together by work from my Milwaukee at this point.

Other tools no one mentioned that will come in handy: Outlet tester/live circuit detector, A stud finder, a set of allen wrenches.

If you're willing to spend some money and you think you'll have more use for a good stud finder that actually works, get one of these.

I went through several finders in my 1940 brick colonial before finally trying the Franklin. I love that thing. It's not magic, but it finds so many studs that no others could. Just the way it lets you visualize the object it's detecting is immensely helpful in quickly determining whether you've got a false positive.

I can't promise you it'll help you sort out that wood paneling wall. But if any finder can detect the studs, it's the Franklin.

Good luck!

If you are driving alot of screws get a good driver with Torx or square bits. Phillips or flat head screws should be outlawed.

I have tons of 18 volt tools. But 90% of the time I use my 12 volt stuff. It is lighter and plenty strong enough for most all jobs I throw at it.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Electric-Tools-2598-22-Hammer/dp/B077ZXR2GN/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=milwaukee+m12+fuel&qid=1563798041&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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Get a good tool bag, To keep all your tools organized.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DG5543-Inch-Tradesmans-Tool/dp/B001P30BO6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dewalt+tool+bag&qid=1563036747&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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This little screwdriver is my most used electrical tool.

It will take off a faceplate in seconds without scratching it.

https://www.amazon.com/Interchangeable-Screwdriver-Klein-Tools-67100/dp/B003FC75YE/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=klien+screwdriver+fast&qid=1563037724&s=gateway&sr=8-7

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This works great also.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-9-IN-1-RATCHET-BIT-DRIVR/dp/B07N2XRJKN/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3S4QWUWTNOHH0&keywords=milwaukee+ratchet+screwdriver&qid=1563797885&s=gateway&sprefix=milwauke+ratchet+%2Caps%2C216&sr=8-5

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These work great as stud finders, not sure how they build your houses but in america we have 2x4 wooden studs behind our walls every 16-24". This is a strong magnet that finds the studs by finding the screws that attach the drywall to the wooden studs.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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If you are moving any water lines or doing any plumbing look in to Pex, It is very easy to do and you can same alot of plumbing costs.

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Crimping-Crimper-Stainless-Clamps/dp/B019DPYQZM/ref=sr_1_4?crid=LGQIZBR2PEXY&keywords=pex+crimping+tool&qid=1563798123&s=gateway&sprefix=pex+crimp%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-4

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If you are moving your toilet, look in to a wall mount. They are very modern and save you a lot of room.

Consider sealing the granite with Stonetech's Bulletproof. One of the best sealers I've ever found:

https://www.amazon.com/StoneTech-BulletProof-Sealer-1-Pint-473L/dp/B005ZGSS0S

Love your kitchen. It is clean, functional, but not cluttered. Looks like some awesome meals are going to come out of there. Congratulations to you and your family on a job well done.

I used two kits of this on my dark pink tub about a year ago and it doesn't show any wear yet. http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7860519-Refinishing-2-Part-White/dp/B000PTSBKW/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426613305&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=rustoleum+bath+refinder

I realize it may begin to wear eventually - but we will probably sell the house later this year. If I knew I was going to be in a house for more than ten years, I'd go for professional resurfacing - but for my purposes the DIY worked great. Just be sure to ventilate and follow the directions to a T. Read the amazon reviews and understand the process before you jump in.

Good luck!

You’re talking about a jamb switch, but they don’t meet energy codes in my area. The issue that municipalities have with jamb switches is that if you don’t close the door then the light never goes off. If you put in a motion sensor with an automatic off then it will go off after a certain amount of time even if you don’t close the door. That’s really the best option. Technically motion sensors indoors don’t meet CA energy codes either because they don’t want lights automatically turning on anywhere in the house. They want you to physically hit the switch and then for it to time off. That is called an occupancy sensor. It’s actually required in closets and bathrooms.

But what you’d want is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=58685001040&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhfvT7I7-5AIVoyCtBh20jwIxEAAYASAAEgJHu_D_BwE&hvadid=274898185342&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9032130&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=11606527727516147700&hvtargid=kwd-296546370640&hydadcr=12164_10197800&keywords=switch+motion+sensor&qid=1570037880&sr=8-5

I am surprised I haven’t seen a mention of wall toggles here.
Zip toggles like this(note, amazon link) are my go-to when hitting a stud is out of the question. You can get them in different weight ratings, for different applications, and it sits pretty flush to the wall. Better in every respect than drywall anchors, excepting price - but at ~$2 per, I’ll pay that for piece of mind (I’ve never had a toggle fail on me).
The install is super simple, too: Drill a hole (1/2” for the 250lb rated size), put the toggle in, zip it down, snap the excess zip off, then use the provided bolt to secure the object to the wall.

 

As a disclaimer: no shill zone, the above link was provided for the pics. I have had luck with other toggles as well, so I’m not brand loyal. I think the only difference for for competing fasteners is in the zip/snap action - but if you go the hardware store and ask for wall toggles, they’ll set you up.


Again, this is second only to hitting the stud directly, you should always try that as the first option.

E: wall, not walk

/u/Kravnafa14 has the right idea. If it's old enough and seized up so you can't get it off, maybe try running one of those cheap disposable "hair snake" things, should be able to make the gap. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Drain-Snake-Remover-Cleaning/dp/B01DP87IF8

I would follow up with Thrift, it's an EXCELLENT product, I cannot recommend it enough. It is not nearly as harsh as drano etc, works well for maintenance as well. I keep a giant bottle on hand to run down my drains a few times a year. https://www.amazon.com/Thrift-Alkaline-1-Pound-Granular-Cleaner/dp/B005E0K7FY?th=1 it will eat up hair pretty well.

I'd skip all the brushes and rollers and get a simple HVLP sprayer. I used the Wagner HVLP MAX with excellent results. Used it for both primer and finish coats. I highly recommend a Waterbourne Alkyd paint, such as BM Advanced.

A cheap solution to the paint pyramids are some 2x4s with a few finish nails sticking out.. you prob already have this stuff laying around.

I see you already ordered new hinges, but pending what year your cabinets are, going to a Euro hinges, really helps modernize the look.. tho it can be a matter of opinion. Good luck!

Family Handyman magazine is a good one for the stage you’re at. Sign up for their email list of tips; I have and often find something useful in their newsletter emails.

Familiarizing yourself with the basic tools you need — various simple manual hand tools and their use, simple power hand tools and their use — that is a good first step.

Learning to use tools in the proper way will prevent you from inadvertently making some ill-advised-but-common mistakes, and will help keep you safe in the meantime. (For example— Could one use a flathead screwdriver as a rock chisel? Perhaps. Should you? No, and there are reasons for that and better tools for the job.)

Books like this one:
The Complete Do-it-Yourself Manual Newly Updated

Should be a good starting point. They’ll cover the basic ways houses are plumbed, wired, and some of the basic building techniques.

If you’re planning to do electrical work around your house, I’m going to highly recommend a non-contact voltage tester because it can tell you when a switch still has electricity live to it. I have a couple of weird wiring configurations (multiple breakers used in the same junction box, from three-way light switches) in our 2015 house, and my tester has saved me from risking getting shocked a couple of times. Being careful is also key, but that sort of tester is a good thing to have.

+1 for Honeywell, but no need for a "smart" thermostat for this. The only benefit you're missing out with a regular wifi is the "learning" capabilities of the smart unit. A simple wifi unit will be controllable from your phone, and are a fraction of the cost of the smart units.

These units are currently $90, but I've regularly seen them or similar units on sale for ~$80. Take a look at your local big box and see if they have any deals.

Another thing to check is to see if your utility providers offer any sort of rebates or incentives for smart or wifi thermostats.

Keep in mind that a lot of smart or wifi thermostats require a common wire, so if you have dont have one and don't have the extra wire you may need to run a new wire.

I'm working away at my basement remodel (1950's). Do you want to start with a book? The gold standard for basic renovations is Renovation 5th Edition. This will set you on the right path before you start researching specific things for yourself. There are many ways to accomplish each task. For example, for your wall assembly you can go with the classic frame + fiberglass + vapor barrier. Or you can do with frame + spray foam. Or you can go with XPS foam + frame + rockwool + smart barrier. This will depend on local building code as well since you will require a minimum R-value.

Start with your local building code/permitting office and see what is required in your area. Where I live we are supposed to pull permits for a basement renovation. Some people hate the idea of permits, but generally the inspectors and building code office should work with you to make sure you do things safely and correctly. The application process is fairly simple. Fill out a form and provide a basic drawing of the proposed space including room dimensions, window size/locations, ceiling heights, locations of existing bulkheads/beams. They also want to know what your proposed wall assembly will be. They will either approve your application or will help you to make modifications in order to meet code.

Once approved you can start working away. We require inspections after framing, insulation/vapor barrier, plumbing, and final. A separate inspection will come with electrical since that is a separate organization unrelated to the municipality.

These are a little pricey, but I’ve used these snaptoggles to hold up TVs as large as 65” with solid results. Very easy to install and more than strong enough to hold a monitor in drywall.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IU6HG48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yaB5BbAWE5483

Your gripit anchors should work just fine as well.

Yes that is safe. But you need a HEPA vacuum that is certified under the EPA's RRP program. Many "HEPA" vacuums leak air that is contaminated with the exact stuff you're trying to filter out, so the certified part is important. This one is the best deal you'll find -- there's a used "like new" one right now for $185. That's exactly what I got and it works great.

That's hardwood, my man! Refinish that floor!

Rent a drum sander and a floor edger, start at 60 and sand in line with the boards, 80 diagonally across, then 120 in line. Stain it up (I prefer Old Masters - avoid Minwax), wait 72 hours, then seal with a catalyzed two-stage sealer like StreetShoe NXT. Anything from General Finishes is also great stuff (both their stains and sealers are great).

After you do your first pass with 60 grit, fill any gaps, nail holes from the tack strip, or imperfections with a trowelable wood floor filler like Bona Pacific Filler or Rust-Oleum Parks (NO PLASTIC WOOD ON FLOORS). If you need to plug holes where wiring may have been passed through in the past, use corks.

Also a good time to refinish or replace baseboard. The whole project will add good value to your home and will look so much better than carpet.

Not quite 20, but have 2 of these. Work great, wife and I both love it, going into year 3.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0RHSJO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If all three in the same bathroom are slow, but not others, the blockage could be pretty far down, you may not be able to reach it with an auger.

Thrift drain cleaner is absolutely outstanding stuff, I would gamble $10 and give it a try before doing anything else. This stuff has never failed me on slow/clogged drains. My home is 120 years old, I've dealt with plenty over the years.

Follow the instructions on the bottle, run hot water from the fixture for a few minutes first to warm up the pipes. Remove the stopper from your sink or tub so most of the chunks can go straight down the drain. Pour 1/3 to 1/2 of the bottle into the drain, then dump about a quart or so of boiling hot water down the drain (seriously - boil a pot of water on the stove). It may gurgle and spatter a little, so beware. If that doesn't work, follow it up with another treatment immediately after.

There are special 2 part epoxy paints that are used for this.

We used this paint to refinish a green bathtub, and it was easy to apply, and looked great until it started to scratch, peel, etc.

It is super smelly and requires proper ventilation and a respirator type mask.

This vac is the one I have and is half the price.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ULBA4W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have an old house and a young kid (7, 4, 2). My toddler has gotten a positive lead test after living here for about a year. I work from home, so he's basically here with me 24/7. 7 micrograms per deciliter, which is two over the current limit. For what it's worth, the old limit was 10 (changed in 2013) and neither the Department of Health or his pediatrician is particularly concerned.

He's getting a second test in a couple of weeks, which will be about 3 months since his initial positive test.

I had knob and tube replaced, which involved cutting into all the walls. Dust was everywhere and nothing was sealed off when the cuts were made in the walls. A cleaning service did come out and clean the entire house after the renovation was complete, which took 3 full days. Since the positive test, I've hired a cleaning service to come out every other week, since one of the main recommendations is to wipe down surfaces that might be contaminated with lead dust.

Under cabinets look great (as you noted), and work great when they are on.

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I think the reason people don't use them is because they are not typically wired to a switch on old houses; and/or hot bulbs overheat and damage themselves.

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The solution is LED lights, triggered by a sensor like this or this that turn them on and off for you. LED don't overheat much, and the sensor turns them off, and on, for your convenience and safety.

I trust Fine Homebuilding. For about $40/year, you can get access to their entire archives online. Although they don't always have something specific to what I want to do. And the books from their parent company, The Taunton Press are really good.

Also, the Complete Do-It-Yourself Manual which is a collaboration between Readers' Digest and Family Handyman is actually a very good comprehensive general resource.

They're OK. Better than the real cheap ones, but not as good as a toggle bolt. Something like these are among the best you can get.

I purchased this guy .. but it wasn’t of much use to me.
I’m so terrified of not cutting in between the two studs and having a huge chunk missing. Do you have any specific videos to recommend?

Thank you so much for your help!

We have a Honeywell astro-timer switch for our front yard lights. Love it. I set it 2 years ago and it's never not worked. Best part about it is that it never needs adjustments throughout the year. It already knows based on the date when dusk/dawn is. All I had to do is set what time I want them to shut off.

The added bonus for us is that there's also an outdoor outlet on that leg. So we run all our holiday lights off it and everything comes on and shuts off together.

You could have 2 next to each other (they're standard single-gang size). But in your case, you could probably get one and tie the two switch legs together.

They do go hand in hand, so I'm thinking that you are not going to have a lot of luck with the curtain idea.

If you can stand leaving the window closed, there is a window insulating method that will let the light in, but help keep your room warmer:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI

Won't work if you need the window open.

I added a fan to our bathroom (5x6), I went with a Panasonic 80CFM. It works great. I mounted it outside the tub/shower area in the middle of the bathroom. The fan keeps the condensation off the window and the mirror, although, some does build up directly above the showerhead. We have an older house and the ceiling in the shower is lower than the rest of the bathroom.

Also, grab one of these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H3QQD64/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's no point of installing a fan if you dont turn it on...

Edit - get the Panasonic, super quiet.

I use the thin film plastic window insulation kits every winter, I love them. They are great because the seal out all the tiny cracks in old windows and create a psuedo-double pane window. I would start there because they are much cheaper than curtains.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI

Fyi, you can get a bidet cover for a toilet for less than $100, and they have pretty good reviews
$330 TOTO SW2024#01 A200 WASHLET Electronic Bidet Tolet Seat with SoftClose Lid. Elongated, Cotton White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0165UFOOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mJn6AbP3940TV

$35 Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CJn6AbAR9M0K6

Some books previously recommended on this sub:

https://www.amazon.com/Renovation-4th-Edition-Completely-Revised/dp/1600854923

https://www.amazon.com/Carpentry-Remodeling-Installing-Removing-improvement/dp/0865737207/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494249697&sr=8-3&keywords=black+and+decker+books+Framing

“A Practical Illustrated Trade Assistant on Modern Construction For Carpenters-Joiners, Builders-Mechanics, and all Wood Workers.”

Do-It-Yourself Housebuilding: The Complete Handbook. by George Nash.

Also, Old This Old House and/or Ask This Old House episodes that cover framing may be valuable to you. JLC and FineHomeBuilding.com are likely to have some beneficial tid-bits of wisdom when you start formulating you're own queries.

From the pic it's hard to tell what those walls are made out of but I still wouldn't chance just putting it anywhere and hoping for the best. Suspect that it's not the answer you want to hear but the right answer is to buy a decent studfinder. Seems like a lot for just this project but if you own a house you will use it again in the future.

The low tech route is to tap your knuckle against the wall and listen for the solid spots.

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