#22 in Outdoor power & lawn equipment
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Reddit mentions of WORX WG430 13 Amp Foldable Bladeless Electric Leaf Mulcher, Red

Sentiment score: 2
Reddit mentions: 4

We found 4 Reddit mentions of WORX WG430 13 Amp Foldable Bladeless Electric Leaf Mulcher, Red. Here are the top ones.

WORX WG430 13 Amp Foldable Bladeless Electric Leaf Mulcher, Red
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    Features:
  • [53 GALLONS/MIN] That’s right, the 13.0 Amp motor mulches up to 53 Gallons of leaves per minute
  • [RIGHT INTO THE BAG] Disposes of leaves and debris into a bag you can attach beneath (bag not included)
  • [11:1 MULCH RATIO] That’s 11 bags chopped down into 1, all due to the innovative blade-less Flex-a-Line mulching system
  • [STURDY YET PORTABLE] At 20 lbs., this tool is substantial and stays in place during use, but isn’t so heavy that you can’t move it around the yard easily
  • [DO IT YOURSELF. DO IT BETTER. DO IT WITH WORX.] WORX tools are engineered with cutting-edge technology, and above modern efficiency standards, so you can build a cost-effective tool collection that’s been designed to last
  • [EASY ASSEMBLY] Putting it together is a snap and requires no tools. And it’s designed that way so you can just as easily disassemble it for storage
  • [INCLUDES] 13 Amp Leaf Mulcher, Cutting Line, Bag Support Ring
Specs:
ColorMulti
Height13.2 Inches
Length22.6 Inches
Number of items1
Sizena
Weight20 Pounds
Width22.6 Inches

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Found 4 comments on WORX WG430 13 Amp Foldable Bladeless Electric Leaf Mulcher, Red:

u/[deleted] · 5 pointsr/composting

The Bin

  • I like the design: simple, low-cost, effective.
  • Add a bar of some kind on the top; maybe rip a length of scrap board and place one in each cut notch. This will add stability to the top panels.
  • Don't let this bin get to high. You have no way to remove side panels and turning the pile in the bin will be difficult if it gets too high.

    Leaves

  • If you read a recent post in the past few days, I mentioned the leaf mulcher. I use this one. Breaking them in small bits increases surface area and allows bacteria easier access to the inside of the leaf (some leaves have a waxy outer coating that slows the composting process.)

    Manure

  • Manure is pretty close to perfect in terms of composting. With a C:N ratio of about 27 it will do pretty well on it's own. the problem with Manure is that it tends to stink because no air can get to the center of a manure pile. Without air, anaerobes take over and make bad smells.

    Composting it All

  • Here's where we get a little nasty: All the manure you have needs to be broken up into smaller pieces; whether you want to do it by hand or with a tool is up to you.

  • It's best to wait until you can make a pile that is close to a cubic yard (3x3x3 ft)

  • use a ratio of 1:1 (by volume) of manure to dry leaves (unshredded.) this tends to be about a ratio of 15:1 (by weight) Most people don't weigh their compost, so backyard DIYers use a volume estimation. If you have 1 cuft of manure, then use 1 cu ft of dry leaves (unshredded.) This will give you a ratio of pretty damn close to 30:1.

  • Layer the manure and leaves, spraying the layers as you go with the hose (not to wet, though!)

  • when your pile is done, the process begins! Your pile temp will spike within 24 hours. Then it will maintain for a few days and steadily decrease. There are a few methods to be employed:

  1. The lazy method: Simply do nothing. It will do everything on it's own but the process will take a long time and the end product will be sloppy and coarse.

  2. The "typical" method: When the temperature drops to 120F, turn the pile -inside out, outside in. Continue this until the temperature no longer gets above 120. Then turn and mix the pile into a final bin to "cure" for about 2 months. For best results, sift the final product through 1/4" screen. Add this material to your soil.

  3. Hot method: Most people don't have enough starting material to make this really feasible. If you have a good strong source for horse manure and a lot of straw, you could do this easily. It takes about 3 weeks to make goo compost with this method. I provided a link below, but the process it layer into pile, let sit for 4 days, then turn every second day for 2 weeks.

    Most people use the typical method in a 3-bin system: bin 1 = active pile, bin 2 = turned pile, bin 3 = curing pile. I employ this method. Once I get my new 3-bin setup completed, I will be posting pictures of compost at different stages. IN the meantime, here is a picture of potting soil components I use: Left to right: dolomitic lime, perlite, compost (the stuff I make), peat moss.

    For added fun, use the compost going into the curing pile as bedding for worm bins. It is rich with food for them (you can add more, of course) and they will pass all of it through them. The end result is a nice, black, humus. I hope to employ a worm bin soon; it's on my list.

    This calculator can help with ratios

    Get a compost thermometer to help monitor the temperature

    This site has a good description for hot composting and a list of ratios
u/gooberfaced · 2 pointsr/lawncare

> Do you have any pictures, really interested in this idea.

Photos.
We just rake/blow up a pile and run them through a shredder. Just a simple string trimmer line model like this.

Sometimes we set the shredder on a tarp and drag the mulch over to its intended area, sometimes we set the shredder on top of a huge Brute garbage can for collection, and other times we set the shredder directly in the ornamental bed.
I have to rake the shredded bits around so there is quite a bit of raking in my procedure. On the bright side it counts for that day's workout.

The mulch it makes is wonderful. If I blow the leaves out of my beds and mulch with commercial bagged mulch my order is upwards of 450 bags or several large truckloads- I have a lot of ornamental beds. But this leaf mulch works really well, is nice and soft to kneel in for weeding, and walks the fine line of lasting a full season and decomposing and aiding my soil.
It is by far my preferred mulch.