Best products from r/composting

The Bin

• I like the design: simple, low-cost, effective.
  
• Add a bar of some kind on the top; maybe rip a length of scrap board and place one in each cut notch. This will add stability to the top panels.
  
• Don't let this bin get to high. You have no way to remove side panels and turning the pile in the bin will be difficult if it gets too high.
  
  Leaves
  
  
• If you read a recent post in the past few days, I mentioned the leaf mulcher. I use this one. Breaking them in small bits increases surface area and allows bacteria easier access to the inside of the leaf (some leaves have a waxy outer coating that slows the composting process.)
  
  Manure
  
  
• Manure is pretty close to perfect in terms of composting. With a C:N ratio of about 27 it will do pretty well on it's own. the problem with Manure is that it tends to stink because no air can get to the center of a manure pile. Without air, anaerobes take over and make bad smells.
  
  Composting it All
  
  
• Here's where we get a little nasty: All the manure you have needs to be broken up into smaller pieces; whether you want to do it by hand or with a tool is up to you.
  
  
• It's best to wait until you can make a pile that is close to a cubic yard (3x3x3 ft)
  
  
• use a ratio of 1:1 (by volume) of manure to dry leaves (unshredded.) this tends to be about a ratio of 15:1 (by weight) Most people don't weigh their compost, so backyard DIYers use a volume estimation. If you have 1 cuft of manure, then use 1 cu ft of dry leaves (unshredded.) This will give you a ratio of pretty damn close to 30:1.
  
  
• Layer the manure and leaves, spraying the layers as you go with the hose (not to wet, though!)
  
  
• when your pile is done, the process begins! Your pile temp will spike within 24 hours. Then it will maintain for a few days and steadily decrease. There are a few methods to be employed:
  
  

1. The lazy method: Simply do nothing. It will do everything on it's own but the process will take a long time and the end product will be sloppy and coarse.
   
   
2. The "typical" method: When the temperature drops to 120F, turn the pile -inside out, outside in. Continue this until the temperature no longer gets above 120. Then turn and mix the pile into a final bin to "cure" for about 2 months. For best results, sift the final product through 1/4" screen. Add this material to your soil.
   
   
3. Hot method: Most people don't have enough starting material to make this really feasible. If you have a good strong source for horse manure and a lot of straw, you could do this easily. It takes about 3 weeks to make goo compost with this method. I provided a link below, but the process it layer into pile, let sit for 4 days, then turn every second day for 2 weeks.
   
   Most people use the typical method in a 3-bin system: bin 1 = active pile, bin 2 = turned pile, bin 3 = curing pile. I employ this method. Once I get my new 3-bin setup completed, I will be posting pictures of compost at different stages. IN the meantime, here is a picture of potting soil components I use: Left to right: dolomitic lime, perlite, compost (the stuff I make), peat moss.
   
   For added fun, use the compost going into the curing pile as bedding for worm bins. It is rich with food for them (you can add more, of course) and they will pass all of it through them. The end result is a nice, black, humus. I hope to employ a worm bin soon; it's on my list.
   
   This calculator can help with ratios
   
   Get a compost thermometer to help monitor the temperature
   
   This site has a good description for hot composting and a list of ratios

I think this depends on how committed you are and by that I mean how much you're willing to invest. I'm a big fan of John at Growing Your Greens. I am new to composting and did quite a bit of research before discovering that my HOA forbids the use of composters. I'm on the fence about whether I'll get one anyway or not but based on John's reviews of the various types I would have or will purchase a Joraform. It's pricey to start (Note: I've seen it at $299 on Amazon, it seems to be higher right now so you can keep an eye on it if you're interested) but he does a follow up review here and has actually purchased a second, larger one because it works so well and so quickly. He says it turns out high grade usable compost in about 4-6 weeks. That seems much faster than any of the other ones I've read about. I've also read that the insulation keeps the pile hot enough that it works during snowy winters as well if your area experiences that type of climate. John puts the Lifetime tumbler in second place and I've seen the dual 50 gallon model at Costco for $150 which is pretty good as well.

The bonus of the tumblers, as he mentions, is that they're raised and sealed so rodents can't get to your pile. With the Joraform the holes are relatively small, I believe, so it keeps the insects you get to a minimum as well. Being able to tumble your compost has the advantage of making it easier to turn so you can keep the pile processing more easily and preventing it from creating odors. They're long but I highly suggest watching John's videos as they give a pretty good run down of the various types and the pros and cons of each.

1. There are a lot of calculators on "Green to brown ratio" or "C:N" ratios... but unless you are capable of weighing your debris and figuring the moisture content, it's all just a guideline for you. For your needs, make the pile a 2:1 ratio in volume of leaves to grass. Mix the mass evenly as grass tends to mat and go anaerobic if you layer with it.
   
   
2. shred the leaves. If you have a mulching mower that actually recirculates the material and shreds it, use that. You mentioned a blower... does this blower suck as well? I use a blower/vacuum for my backyard leaves, but my back yard isn't that big.
   
   
3. Instead of one big pile, which gets to be a chore to turn due tot he size and weight, instead aim for several small piles about 1 - 1.5 cubic yards. Start a pile as tall as your chest and it will shrink to your waist or lower as it cooks.
   
   
4. add some water as you add to the pile. The pile should not be soaking... just damp. If water is dripping or running out of the pile, there is too much water.
   
   
5. use a thermometer. Use a compost thermometer and place it in the fresh pile. The temperature will rise over a couple days and may even hit 160 degrees. Let the pile sit until it hits 120 degrees. When the temperature gets to 120, turn the pile into a new pile. Do this by scraping the fresher material from the top and making a pile with it. Then add the internal pile, now darker and warm, on the outside of the new pile. The pile will cool as you do this, but you will be moving the still compostable stuff to the middle. The temperature will rise again but not as high. When it gets to 100, turn and mix it to a new pile. It may rise and fall again. Keep this going every couple days until the temperature doesn't move. At this point it is done with any meso or thermophilic action.
   
   I recommend having a larger passive pile and a few smaller active piles. The larger pile can be for food scraps and such... the larger items. The smaller piles will be for active composting -composting you are doing. Turn the larger pile every week or so... or less.
   
   Once the small piles aren't changing in temperature, they can be used as compost but you can take some extra steps.
   
   
6. take the new compost and sift it through a 1/4" screen. Store the 1/4" stuff in a bin with a lid.
   
   
7. the stuff that doesn't make it through... you can add to a new pile for further breakdown.
   
   
8. the can of 1/4" stuff should sit for a month or so in the sunlight with the lid on. Any seeds left in the compost that survived the thermophilic process will sprout in the can (instead of in your garden.) This will prevent weeds.
   
   Amend your soil with the 1/4" stuff. I recommend doing so with a wheel hoe as this will help break into the soil a bit better. Or use a motor tiller if you have one.
   
   As for JUST the leaves, if you place damp leaves (better if they are shredded) into a pile and let it sit for a few months, you'll get something called leaf mold. Sift this as with the compost and combine the two or use separately. It's not quite compost, but it will add biological activity to the soil.
   
   RIP your free time. Composting is strangely fun.

I think you're set on supplies. I never used the coir. I just added shredded newspaper and the stuff the worms were shipped in.

Small chunks are fine. I'll give them larger chunks and they handle them. They really don't eat much. Consult on-line, but I think you feed a lb of worms only a half a lb of food a day. I NEVER have them eat that much. I usually have far more scraps than the worms can eat. You can freeze the scraps and when thawed, they're soft and easier for them to consume. Blending is fine, but not necessary. Really, just putting the entire peel and cores is fine.

I feed the worms on one side of the bin for a few days so I can harvest the opposite side. Not all of them will move, so I pick out the worms and put them back into the bin. They aren't all that bothered.

I think those worm contraptions are more efficient at separating worms, but I've never owned one. I have a small rubbermaid tote with holes.

Starting the bin is kind of tricky because it needs to have the right moisture level. I wouldn't buy a meter. Instead, I'd save it and spend money on a worm house later. Visually inspecting the bin is really all you need to monitor moisture. Also note that some veggie/fruit scraps can quickly add moisture to the bin. They love watermelon rind, but it will add a lot of moisture so use sparingly unless the bin is too dry.

They may try to climb out when the bin isn't the right moisture level, temperature or when the bin is new. Don't fret.

For kitchen waste, a vermicomposter is ideal. I built an OSCR jr from these plans I found online and it lasted for about a decade and a half before the plastic became brittle from exposure to sun/elements. I'm in the process of building a new one (pay attention when drilling the holes, one of the three bins is done differently). The worm castings and the tea that drains into the bottom bin are excellent fertilizers and maintaining the bin is a cinch.

Having a pair of bricks to place in the bottom/drainage bin is helpful to keep the worm bin from sitting in liquid.

I'm going to either install a stop-cock or at least drill a hole and keep a rubber plug in it to make draining the bottom bin easier.

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For yard/garden or any other bulk/high volume a larger compost bin will be necessary. I find the commercially available ones to be too small. I built the three bin system detailed in the book "Let it Rot!" which is also an excellent resource if you want to understand these processes a little better. The three bin system works fairly well at handling grass and hedge clippings, leaves, old pine shavings from inside the chicken coop, etc.

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I almost exclusively use the worm casting tea for watering my houseplants and plants in containers, likewise the worm castings get spread primarily as a top dressing for the same containers and the surplus then goes to the garden and landscape plants.
The compost from the big triple bin gets used throughout the yard as mulch or to till in with new plants.

Yeah I would also say to stop adding. A month is a good amount of time. Keep the pile going on standard operating procedure. If you really want to turn it every three days that may help. It also looks a bit wet to me so ease up on watering maybe.

I’ll probably get flamed for this but I’ve gotten great results from this Job’s inoculant in the past. A bag costs $5. You might consider adding some before you process for another month.

Jobe's Organics Compost Starter 4-4-2, 09926, 4 pounds, 4 lb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MZ2UOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SXHPCb2BKK3P9

But adding more unprocessed material to a pile that looks unfinished may be counterproductive, unless you have strong reason to believe your materials are grossly unbalanced.

FCMP Outdoor IM4000 Tumbling Composter, 37 gallon, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009378AG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U4GJDbFQNRCEF

We got this one and it’s been great so far. I’m sure there are fancier ones but this one works just fine. It has 2 chambers and is pretty easy to empty. Only downside was that it has like 500 screws to put it together the first time!

The compost bin I purchased came with a Wing Digger. I didn't expect it to work well, but I have been pleasantly surprised. It works well enough for turning my pile, which consists almost entirely of coffee grounds and shredded paper and leaves. Using this, I never have to use a pitchfork or dump out the compost and pile it back in.

If I were to get a new one, I would consider getting one with two pairs of wings and an extra hand hold. It looks a little sturdier, and should turn the compost at least twice as much.

I bought this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LNDBH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Handles paper great, not cardboard, but I have enough paper now that I can use this no problem. Lots of newspaper thanks to my neighbor. :)

I keep my kitchen compost bucket on the counter, by the sink. I think accessibility would help you. When cooking, you can set up your cutting board (or whatever) near the bin so you can easily transfer scraps.

Oxo makes an easy-open/non-latching countertop bin — that might help it “feel” easier too.

https://www.amazon.com/OXO-Grips-Clean-Compost-White/dp/B003ZFW0YQ

I think adding a multi-bin setup would make your life more complicated.

Good to know. This is the one we use.

Compost Bin with 7 FREE Charcoal Filters by Silky Road | 1.3-Gallon / 5-Liter | Vintage Cream Powder-Coated Carbon Steel | Kitchen Pail with Lid, Trash Keeper Container Bucket, Recycling Caddy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07982D8WW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KmiSDbW19CKVK

Late to the party but wondering the same thing, was hoping something like this might work but I have my doubts https://www.amazon.com/Weston-05-0201-Construction-Stainless-Crushing/dp/B000XB5UHE/

Nice support from the family!
On the topic of lower waste, composting, and coffee. If you’re more of a one-cup-at-a-time user, check out the Aeropress. I use my filters at least twice (rinsing after use obviously).
AeroPress Coffee and Espresso Maker - Quickly Makes Delicious Coffee without Bitterness - 1 to 3 Cups Per Pressing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047BIWSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G2TxCb441315J

I have a slightly different YIMBY that is a little smaller capacity and is a dual-chamber. It's been working fine so far, although it is a little too small to really get cooking without some direct sunlight to heat it up. Also note that it drains pretty freely since it is made out of 8 panels rather than being a solid container. I've never had to add water, but you'll want to put it over some ground that you don't mind getting drained on.

http://www.amazon.com/Yimby-Tumbler-Composter-Color-Black/dp/B009378AG2

I got one like this a few years ago. Doesn't smell at all. Just don't put any animal bones/meat/oils and you should be fine. Has never smelled bad or had any unusual odors ever.

Tumbler is fine too. I prefer the one that sits on the ground though because worms find their way in it when it's not too hot.

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B003HOR8BK

I do both an outdoor compost bin and an indoor vermicompost bin. Have found these very helpful:

Websites:

Home Composting Made Easy

Red Worm Composting.com

Books:

Let It Rot! The Gardener's Guide to Composting

Worms Eat My Garbage: How to Set Up and Maintain a Worm Composting System

This is pretty much the bible.

AmazonBasics 24-Sheet Cross-Cut Paper, CD, and Credit Card Shredder with Pullout Basket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFJWMV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UYuQCbTE0R5DK

This is what we use. It’s kind of expensive, but it totally works.

Just get the Rodale Book of Composting.

https://www.amazon.com/Rodale-Book-Composting-Methods-Gardener/dp/0878579915

FCMP Outdoor IM4000 Tumbling Composter, 37 gallon, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009378AG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3vyBDbG0E8GCS

I have two of these

I've never dealt with such a problem. But my gut tells me to throw a bunch of carbon and nitrogen at it to make it really hot and that should kill anything bad in there with a high nitrogen for a while. You'll also want to add sod as it's a starter. But I think hit it hard with the grass trimmings for the nitrogen to run it hot.
Almost everything I've learned about composting came from this book, that I LOVE.
https://www.amazon.com/Let-Rot-Composting-Down-Earth/dp/1580170234/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484012881&sr=8-1&keywords=composting+book