Best products from r/AskMechanics

http://m.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92019/Real-world-reflashing-Cutting-through-the-smoke-and-mirrors

Not for a computer. I guess you could technically you could hack up a computer power supply but they won't output enough current and the wire insulation would make a nice fire. You need a power supply that can provide a stable well-rectified voltage and provide enough current to keep the modules alive. Since you're asking the question- you'll need one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006GFQMHI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hf.dBbAEW40A1

That is the cheapest charger I could find. I've only used it a few times so I can't speak to the durability or reliability of it. You can make one but you'll need something that has excellent rectification, extremely fast voltage regulation, and will supply 50-70 amps depending on your model. For the cost, it's not worth your time unless you have tons of it.

You'll also need a j2534 programmer. You can get something from vxdiag. They're a pain to work with but gets the job done for a tenth of the price. Your other options are tried and true pass through programmers for $1000-2000 or clones off alibaba.

You'll also need a subscription. I can't remember if you have an FCA or GM car but a one day subscription is $25 and $40 respectively.

You'll also have to find software if mopar or FCA doesn't provide it, which is never easy and usually expensive.

You also have the option of hand held diagnostic tablets like certain verus models but they're generally all $1000+ (used) and some you have to buy expansions to program certain vehicles.

Any set of jumper cables will do. The thicker the better(more expensive) I would get at least 6ga. The longer the better 12’ minimum, try to get 16’ or longer. That makes it easier to position the “donor” car.

As far as jumping goes, it’s pretty straight forward. Always double check that it is positive to positive and negative to negative(I have seen cars where the colors are reversed). Always leave the donor car running while trying to jump the other car.

If the jump doesn’t work the first time, double check that there is a good connection between the cable and battery terminals, clean any dirt or corrosion off. If it still doesn’t work, have someone rev the engine of the donor car to 3-4k and hold it there while tying to start the other car. Also do this if the donor car has a smaller engine than the car being jumped.

https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-FATMAX-J7CS-Jump-Starter/dp/B00RZXVQSU
Jump boxes like these are really handy to and eliminate the need for a second car to jump you. Some also have built in air compressors too to air up tires.

Okay, I've gone through this before. Luckily I had access to a shop. The 1/2" snapon impact couldn't get it, but the 3/4 did. You probably don't have a 3/4, so here are some ideas.

1. • As others have said, the breaker bar bump start trick. You'll want to be careful holding the socket on the bolt in case it pops off. Heat is definitely your friend. Get that bitch orange hot if the starter bump trick doesn't work, then try the starter bump trick again when it's hot. I did this trick on an accord a week ago with no heat and it went perfectly well with a Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar and a deep well impact socket.
     
     2 - There's a special Honda crank pulley tool. Use this with lots of cheater bars.
     https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648796-Cranks-Pulley-Removal/dp/B0000TMLWQ
     
     3 - Find a shop and tell them you just want the bolt broken loose. They might hook you up for free or charge you only a little bit of labor if they have better tools. If they get it loose, just have them snug it back in. The engine rotates clockwise so the bolt can't loosen, it'll only get tighter on your way home, no worries about it coming out.
     
     Good luck.

Looks to be a MAP sensor: https://www.amazon.com/09359409-Manifold-Absolute-Barometric-Pressure/dp/B01C4O9K00

I don't know what it does but looks like a pretty cheap part and by your photo, rather easy to replace.

edit: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_sensor

You can probably get them out pretty easy with a left handed drill bit. These Irwin bits are pretty baller. Just use a self centering punch or a small pointy punch and mark the center, then start with the smallest or second smallest one.

The idea is that the bit will catch the bolt and spin it out.

They also make this set that has spiral flute extractors, just in case the left handed bit doesn't catch.

You should use a torque wrench if you're not (I've totes broken bolts when torquing to spec before, so no hate if you are), a small 3/8" wrench that does inch lbs. Those bolts are probably supposed to be between 80 in lbs and 110 in lbs. Torque wrench will a) ensure you're not over-torquing and breaking bolts, and b) it's even all the way around, so you're not pinching the gasket weird in some spot.

Amps use the RCA wires for the sound signal so you just need an amp and a sub.

Like the other guy mentioned, the blue is just a 12v signal. When the head unit turns on it just sends 12 volts and the amp turns on.

You'll need a short amount same gauge wire as the red wire to ground the amp to the chassis. The electricity needs some way to get back to the battery. I bet if you look around under the carpet to the side you'll find the ground wire bolted somewhere to the metal under the carpet or along the side.

Like /u/cancerous_anus said, definitely check along the red power wire, probably under the hood, for a fuse. If not most definitely put one in. Get something like this. They use the old style glass fuse.

At the auto parts store there will be like 5 different brands of stuff called “Scratch Remover” like this

Formula 1 Scratch Out - Scratch Remover for All Auto Paint Finishes - 7 oz. Liquid Wax, 615011 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060HVFHO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3UOzDbM1CWM55

I have this one but I’m sure they are all the same. Buy whichever one is on sale this month. It really does work! I scraped up the side of my car driving against a bush that had some sharp branches and was able to restore it 99%. You would only tell if you looked really close with a magnifying glass

STINGER Brand EVAP Smoke Machine Leak Tester with EVAP Adapter & TWO Smoke Tips. Tests EVAP, Intake, Exhaust, Vacuum Lines, Manifolds, etc - Stinger Brand is The BEST CHOICE in Smoke Testing!!! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758ZRBT7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k-z0BbC232NF2

So I built mine from a paint can. It is very delicate. I suggest you build one from an ammo can or you get one from a paint sprayer like the link. I spent about 150$ and 8 hours making mine. It has advanced features like the pressure gauge and flow meter. But I have never used these in practice. I have used the adjustable regulator though.

From someone who also does his changes living in an apartment: buy yourself an oil drain like this, it'll save you a lot of hassle and avoid a mess that your neighbours might not like.

Other than that, changing the oil literally consists of warming the car up a little, removing a single bolt from the oil pan underneath your car, and waiting for it to drain. Then you'll ideally replace the gasket that goes on that bolt for a new one, and replace the filter.

For your car(and most cars really), the oil filter will be a thing like these, usually accessible by hand in the engine bay. Don't know about the US, but here in Brazil you can buy oil and filters in any gas station. After you've drained all the oil, reach for the old filter and unscrew it out. Take the new filter and, before you screw it in, rub a bit of new oil on the rubber gasket of the new one. That'll both ensure a better seal, and that you'll be able to remove this filter by hand on the next change. Then screw the new filter on, finger tight is enough. No need to make it too tight, or like I said it'll be hell on the next change. If pulling your old filter out is hard, you'll know the person who did the job before either skipped oiling the gasket, or put it on too tight, or both.

After putting the new filter on, just fill it up to level with new oil of the correct specification. Your owner's manual will have the oil specs, as well as the ammount you'll need. You use the oil dipstick to check the level. Never over or underfill, and don't use a different spec oil, and your car will run without any problems.

Oh, then take that drain filled with old oil to the nearest gas station the next time you go for a gas fill, so they can dispose of the oil properly there.

Yeah, I don't mind. As long as I remove the wheel I'm happy.

Also ordered this

Irwin Industrial Tool 53227 Hex Head Multi-Spline Extractor Set, 25-Piece https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002SRG66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mRM5AbD146PGM

should be arrive tomorrow as well. Let you guys know the results.

https://www.amazon.com/BMW-Heater-Regulator-Resistor-Genuine/dp/B00UCL5520

When I removed mine (this is not the model for your car or mine but just the quickest picture to pull up) this is roughly what mine looked like. The pole that the plastic cage sits on has bearings at it's base. I had to take it off to even hear it rather than turning the cage by hand.) I would up getting a new one because it was cheap. It's been a few years so I don't recall all of the particulars but if you buy a new part it's easiest if it comes with the plastic cage. I think mine uses my old cage though.

T-taps are not a great idea. Look for butt connectors with shrink wrap and solder built in, all you need to do is insert your wires and apply heat. Amazon sells large kits for 10 dollars. You might find smaller kits locally

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DPS8DPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zV4HDb92NBTMM

You are going to tap in to a 12v circuit from the cig lighter which is fine, but what are you going to use to step the voltage down to 5v?

Your best bet is to remove your negative battery cable for safety.

There is a tool for this exact issue, Ford in all its brilliance once had a two piece spark plug that would break just like yours, here you go my man Lisle 65700 Broken Plug Remover Kit for Ford 3V Engine https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00SQ4FSN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UV3JDb88PYD11

TORX® 70525 Screwdriver T25 2K with T-Grip | Made in Germany | Torx wrench set | Wrench | TX | for Torx screws https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00O3915OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V.JDDbN1S0EZ7

Like this?

I want to say they overtighten then "to be safe" but it's so widespread I have trouble believing myself. I've never had a 3/4 turn installed filter come off after 30 years fixing cars and I can remove them without mega-wrenches screwdrivers and hammers to break them free... I haven't had an oil change place change my oil in 30 years either, and I strongly advise friends and family to bring them to me to do it with them.

I have a neighbor with a Volvo who has me change her oil sometimes. I can always tell when she brought it to her "Volvo guy" because I CANNOT REMOVE the filter cover. I've had to send her back to him a few times after giving up. It has a replaceable paper element with a reusable hard plastic case and O-ring, and the shop guys make it so tight that sometimes I can't unscrew it even with big filter pliers like these stupid things: https://www.amazon.com/Bastex-inch-Filter-Wrench-Pliers/dp/B073C1SXZP - the filter is too hard to grab with a strap wrench and even these plier things will slip on it.

It's this thing here: https://www.amazon.ca/Unwired-Technology-Wireless-FM-Transmitter/dp/B000F3H4U6

Looks like that wire goes to a splitter box to pull both power and an RCA input.