Reddit mentions of 50pcs Solder Seal Wire Connector, Sopoby Solder Seal Heat Shrink Butt Connectors Terminals Electrical Waterproof Insulated Marine Automotive Copper(23Red 12Blue 10White 5Yellow)

My preference is to use heat shrink solder tubes, they are amazing! Gives you a solder connection as well as an adhesive stink warp protection and strain relief.


50pcs Solder Seal Wire Connector, Sopoby Solder Seal Heat Shrink Butt Connectors Terminals Electrical Waterproof Insulated Marine Automotive Copper(23Red 12Blue 10White 5Yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DPS8DPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VB5WCbF8XY7G3

Solder seal wire connectors. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DPS8DPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kT9zzb2KW4RSQ

For those asking about a new hot end I would suggest E3D over Microswiss as someone whose had both. I got the microswiss first because I liked the idea of not having to print a mount for it or rewire. I regret that decision because I constantly had issues with clogs. The good part about e3d is there are tons of mounts for it. When you do rewire remember to use some JST Connectors so you can replace stuff at will.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M5AHF0Z?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

If you don’t like soldering pick up some of these while you’re at it:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DPS8DPM?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

With these it makes splicing in the jst connectors super simple and done in 30 minutes :)

I found 'em! Geez last time I searched for these I couldn't find anything on them... Here ya go

You can buy new xt60 connectors at hobby shops (rc/drone) or on amazon and many others.


Do not wait to fix it, it will get worse, I know from experience.


I bought pre soldered connectors and all I needed was a heat gun and snips to fix mine.


50pcs Solder Seal Wire Connector,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DPS8DPM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


4pcs XT60 Plug Male Female... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073QJWVVK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


It was a 5 minute fix and no issues since, my connectors stay room temp now.

Suggestion: solder+heat shrink or use a solder-seal type connector

https://www.sherco-auto.com/electralink-sealed-solder-connectors.html

A solder-seal is like a butt-connector with low-temp solder inside, plus heat shrink on the outside. Put wires inside, hit it with a heat gun and it solders and seals at the same time.

https://www.amazon.com/Sopoby-Connectors-Electrical-Waterproof-Automotive/dp/B01DPS8DPM

Cool, glad it helped in some way!

And I soldered them directly into the existing fan wires. That’s what I would recommend if you have experience soldering. You can also use something like these if you aren’t confident with your soldering skills.

If you do go that route or even just crimping them keep in mind that yellow is positive and blue is negative on the stock fan.

T-taps are not a great idea. Look for butt connectors with shrink wrap and solder built in, all you need to do is insert your wires and apply heat. Amazon sells large kits for 10 dollars. You might find smaller kits locally

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DPS8DPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zV4HDb92NBTMM

You are going to tap in to a 12v circuit from the cig lighter which is fine, but what are you going to use to step the voltage down to 5v?

Your best bet is to remove your negative battery cable for safety.

Rather than solder - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPS8DPM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Works wonderfully for my hotend replacement.

>Thanks! I'm definitely excited to get these cleaned up as well. I'll post more when I get to a computer.
>
>Last night I got some time to open them back up. I grabbed some speaker wire and decided to try and give the soldering a shot. The longest and most difficult part was actually getting the wires intertwined together. Probably took me an hour of sitting, looking, thinking, trying and failing. I didn't want to risk pulling to hard, or touching the iron to anything but the wires, so I needed to get it done so I had room before attempting to put heat on it. Plus it's a confined space.

yea that's why I suggested a jumper versus trying to actually solder the actual wires together and potentially damaging them.

it's braided litz and I've had issues burning it before since each individual strand is so thin and then if you burn away too much eventually it gets down to the wire...



>
>Once I got the wires together, the soldering was the easy part. I then slid some heat shrink tubing over it before soldering the end of the wire to the contact.
>

good work. did you use Flux? or did you just let it drip and it happened to land just right?

oh man I forgot I should have linked you to this stuff.

Check this out at Amazon.com - 50pcs Solder Seal Wire Connector, Sopoby Solder Seal Heat Shrink Butt Connectors Terminals Electrical Waterproof Insulated Marine Automotive Copper(23Red 12Blue 10White 5Yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DPS8DPM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_09GXDbHMZ0BJ1

it's great, but I've had success just using heat shrink all by itself on braided litz just because of how pliable it is. just compressing two ends by crimping them with shrink tube has always worked fine for me and it also seals out air.

I always heat it up and then pinch and roll a bit while it's still shrinking.


>Then desoldered the old piece of wire on the contact, and used desoldering wick and flux to clean out some of the old solder in order to run the jumper through the hole on the contact. That was really the easy part. Then slid the heatshrink down over the soldered splice, and soldered the other end of the wire to the contact hole. Used the soldering heat to shrink the wire.
>

you're doing some solid restoration work. do you plan on selling them? that's really good work. I honestly would only go through that much work if I were planning on selling it.

pretty awesome can't wait to see the pics below.


>Got it all back together, and by the time I was done it was 4am. So I havn't had much time to test them, other than to see that the woofer worked great and the solder was strong/sturdy enough, yet offered some flex for the movement of the woofer.
>
>Here are a few pics I took. It's not the prettiest job, but it's functional and strong.
>
>http://imgur.com/gallery/8L2PRgF

the only thing that makes me not like using solder whenever there's any other way is that it is slightly less conductive than the copper itself, so copper to copper would be a cleaner connection than copper solder bulb copper.

I do always tin the leads to the ends of my speaker cables though and I don't think it affects the sound plus it makes it into an aglet which is much easier to handle than just twist wire.

if you use just a tiny bit of Flux, I usually spread it a bit, then dip, then twist, then wipe off any visible excess and then you end up with a really nice light glaze that holds the wires together but is still pliable so you can still screw banana Jack's onto them and the tinned end is pliable enough it feels like tin foil versus cracking, so the banana head screws crimps the end just right imo.

what are you gonna power the speakers with? make sure you've got at least 80 watts minimum and then something raw with lots of air like the Chain by Fleetwood Mac.

The easiest fix here is going to be re-wiring the stepper motors. Since you probably don't have the crimping tools needed for the connectors, you can simply cut the wires between the stepper motor and the board, strip the insulation, and reverse the order. I highly recommend soldering and heat-shrinking the soldered connections. If you don't feel comfortable doing that, there are heat shrinks that have solder in the middle that will do both. (Example: https://www.amazon.com/Sopoby-Connectors-Electrical-Waterproof-Automotive/dp/B01DPS8DPM) You just need a heat gun. Those are not that expensive.

An alternative is flashing a new firmware on your CR-10S Pro that reverses the direction of the motors in the software.

Alright, so let me get this straight, positive wire is connected to another wire using these:
https://www.amazon.com/Sopoby-Connectors-Electrical-Waterproof-Automotive/dp/B01DPS8DPM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493940726&sr=8-1&keywords=tifco+wire+connector

Then it's went through a 15amp fuse like one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/2-pack-Gauge-Fuse-Holders-FUSES/dp/B01NBD7PU9/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493947984&sr=8-3&keywords=16+gauge+fuse

Then it's attached to the battery with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/270-Heat-Shrink-Wire-Connector/dp/B06XTYKPSP/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494002892&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=heat+shrink+connectors&psc=1

Then the negative wire is attached to the negative end of the battery.

Is that correct? Am I missing anything? Want to make sure I'm ordering all of the right parts.

Thanks!

Just get rid of the plugs and direct solder them. If you have a heat gun get some solder seal like this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DPS8DPM/