I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.


When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).

Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.

I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!

TOOLS

• McGuire-Nicholas 22015 15-Inch Collapsible Tote - https://amzn.to/2HXGsvd - I love this thing. Handle is sturdy and holds every chemical I need.
  
• Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - https://amzn.to/2KJC7td - Great mitt and would strongly recommend it. I've only used the mitt for a few washes so I can't comment on durability, but if I had to guess I think it's going to hold up. My only complaint is that it's so voluminous that it's difficult to rinse / wring out the dirt when using the two-bucket method. Not a big enough problem to look for another mitt, though.
  
  BUCKETS
  
  
• Chemical Guys ACC_101 Detailing Bucket Kit - https://amzn.to/2KJb552 - a good starter bucket, but it's worth calling out how much of this stuff is BS marketing: the bucket is only 4 gallons, the gamma lid can be bought for cheaper on amazon, the citrus gloss is OK, and the wash mitt is worthless / isn't going to hold up. I barely used the mitt once and fuzz falls off constantly when handling.
  
• Adam's Grit Guard Wash Bucket with Lid - https://amzn.to/2IoSflo - Better value than chemical guys, but the bucket is just a regular bucket ($4 at Home Depot) and the gamma lid can be purchased for $10-15 on Amazon. I'm not convinced grit guards are worth it, but more on that later.
  
• Grit Guard Washboard Bucket Insert - https://amzn.to/2HW4juZ - the product is well made and does what it's intended to do, but I'm skeptical of its value. Yes, rubbing your mitt on a washboard would intuitively get dirt to fall off, but is it actually more effective than using your hands (which you do anyway to wring out the mitt)? And I'm not buying that the fins "trap dirt." Anybody who looks at their rinse bucket while washing wheels for example can plainly see the water's black. Dirt's floating everywhere.
  
  
  CHEMICALS
  
  
• Mothers 08216 California Gold Instant Detailer - https://amzn.to/2KJ2f7t - this stuff has done a pretty good job for quick wipe-downs, spot cleans, etc.
  
• Griot's Garage 11108 Window Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2Iq5CSF - The spray bottle itself is awesome and works really well. The solution also seems to work well, though I've only ever used it after washing the truck and so I'm not sure how much it helps.
  
• Meguiar's G3626 Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax - https://amzn.to/2jFg3DJ - I used this a few times with the microfiber directional pass method after some serious pollen clouds invaded Austin, and it worked surprisingly well. Ran through 3-4 towels to do my entire truck, then spot-cleaned with an instant detailer. Even though wheel wells and a few pieces were still dirty, it was a huge improvement without the hassle of a full wash. Will definitely be using this as my in-between wash method.
  
• Chemical Guys V7 High Gloss Spray Sealant and Quick Detailer - https://amzn.to/2HXiQ9R - I'm new to detailing, but this stuff is probably the most impressive chemical of everything I've used. The combination of a damp microfiber + V7 produces the result everyone thinks about when they think about car washes: a clean car with no streaks or water spots. Wringing out my microfiber towel can get old, but the end result is just awesome.
  
• Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss - https://amzn.to/2I1knvx - I don't have the luxury of a frother right now, but from simply adding some in a bucket and using a power washer to generate suds, I get decent foam and the soap seems to work well. That said, it's not earth-shattering and I will probably try other washes when I run out.
  
  
  INTERIOR
  
  
• Mothers 06512 All-In-One Leather Care - https://amzn.to/2IlawAg - This stuff works great and smells even better.
  
  
  WHEELS
  
  
• Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2K09l6f - The spray bottle is terribly difficult to press and I always end up using way more than I want. I'm not confident I need to use this instead of just using soap. Maybe it's for exceptionally dirty cars or those with tons of brake dust, but I'm rarely in either camp so I may not buy some more after I run out.
  
• Adam's Hex-Grip Pro Tire Dressing Applicator - https://amzn.to/2HYtb5y - Works well and easy to handle.
  
• Mothers Wheel Brush - https://amzn.to/2K0Ky1Y - really like how easy this is to handle and how soft the bristles are. Highly recommended.
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel - https://amzn.to/2KJsxGP - This is a good low-gloss gel, though I need to try additional coats to see if I can get those tire shinier.
  
• ABN Car Wheel Rim Cleaning 3-Piece Kit - https://amzn.to/2KFgSIR - Yes the big woolie has good reach and allows you to clean the inside of your rims effectively, but the handle is annoyingly difficult to hold after it becomes saturated / heavy to hold.
  
  
  TOWELS
  
  
• Chemical Guys Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold - https://amzn.to/2HY8Q0a - these things are outsidanding and are a great value. Definitely watch Larry's video on microfiber care, which fixed all of my annoyances with microfibers accruing fuzz in the dryer.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY EAGLE EDGELESS 500 Korean 70/30 Super Plush 500gsm Microfiber Detailing Towels - https://amzn.to/2HYVmky - very high plush and high quality, though I end up using the Chemical Guys towels more often and save these for random spot details. Probably not ideal.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY Premium Window, Glass, Mirror & Chrome Korean 70/30 Microfiber - https://amzn.to/2rrveVg - work great for cleaning windows and mirrors.
  
• Nylon Laundry Bag - https://amzn.to/2rtYOcP - I have one bag for clean and one for dirty. Has done a great job of keeping dust off the rags during storage.

Overview

Here is my work from this last weekend. I am a completely mobile detailer and live in the Chicagoland area. I do not actually open until May but this client reached out to me and I wanted to make sure they were taken care of properly and establish a good relationship.

This detail was a lot of fun. I always enjoy interiors because they are such a huge turn around for not as much work as something like a full-blown paint correction.

The client had brought his car to a bodyshop to have it repainted. Unfortunately, while the windows were removed from the vehicle, they were not covered. This resulted in the work of the body shop making its way into the vehicle and covering it. This vehicle is definitely this client's baby and fun car. He was absolutely devastated and really wanted his vehicle brought back to life so he could once again enjoy something he has put a lot into.

I look forward to potentially working on this vehicle again and helping this owner get his car to any level of perfection he is looking to achieve.

---

Work Done

The client wanted a Definitive Interior Cleaning as well as a Showroom Engine detail. Services described here

To a great help to me, this client removed the seats and cleaned them all before I even came on site. This allowed me to focus a lot more time on the interior and door jamb areas and the engine. We did not put the seats back into the vehicle as I wanted the fabric coating to fully dry before they were put back in. That is why you will not be seeing any seat pictures. They were just fine.

The interior was vacuumed and then was completely cleaned with Detailer Pro's Total Interior Cleaner. This product is my go-to for interiors. It works flawlessly and it has a great smell that does linger and just smells naturally clean. I use these types of interior clothes for working with that product.

To assist in cleaning some of the interior trim and the vents, a steam cleaner was used. The steam cleaner was very carefully used on the headliner as well. It is very important to not let a headliner get soaked or too wet as the glue is very thin. Doing this can cause headliner sag.

Nothing beats cleaning the interior of a vehicle with this brush. It is absolutely my favorite brush.

All interior hard surfaces were treated with Lexol Premium Protectant.

The entire interior carpet was cleaned utilizing a heated carpet cleaner. The entire interior carpet where feet will be, the two front seats, and all four mats were treated with CarPro Cquartz Fabric Coating.

The pedals were cleaned up with steel wool as much as possible. Lots of plastic on them which made it difficult to polish to the level it could have been.

All door jambs were sealed with Sonax Polymer Net Shield.

The engine was completely cleaned using P21S Total Auto Wash and just general microfiber clothes from a place like AutoZone. The engine was then dressed with Adam's In&Out Spray to enhance the appearance of all plastic/rubber parts.

---

Response

Overall the client was very satisfied and could not stop staring at the vehicle.

He stated that it looked like new again and like a completely different car. He definitely seems ecstatic to have his vehicle back to the way it should be.

The client did point out the spots still left on the headliner and was instructed on properly cleaning that overtime to remove them. I expressed no issue/charge to work on the headliner again if I come out for new work.

---

Reflection and Lessons Learned

Not much for this one. I had a chance to finally clean a headliner that really needed it. It's definitely very difficult to clean something when you can't be that aggressive with and just have to take time and a lot of patience.

I got pictures of the interior beforehand, but not the engine. The engine was worse off than I was planning and without the use of water like normal, it took quite a bit of time. It turned out just fine though. Engines can be cleaned either way.

---

Total Time: 5 hours on interior, 2 hours on engine

Total Cost: $390

www.chicagosdad.com

www.facebook.com/chicagosdad

Products used:

Carpro Hydrofoam

Karcher K2.300 Pressure washer

MTM Foam Cannon

Videos:

water beading/sheeting

drying

I took advantage of this unseasonably warm weather we’re having in December to test out Carpro’s new soap, Hydrofoam. It’s a ‘wash and wax’ type product (though it says wash and coat on the bottle), so by using the appropriate dilution you’re going to clean and protect your vehicle in one step.

I used my Karcher K2.300 pressure washer and a 34 oz MTM foam cannon with a ratio of 27 oz clean tap water to 3 oz of Hydrofoam. The directions say to work a panel at a time, foam it up, wash like you would with a mitt normally to spread it around and clean, and rinse it off immediately. Clean and rinse your mitt after each panel. It was a little annoying to have to switch the foam cannon and regular pressure washer nozzle back and forth, but I found a rhythm. The whole car took about 10-15 minutes to do.

The before pictures showed that the car had minimal beading and some minor sheeting effects on it from some spray wax applied a week or two ago. The car also wasn’t very dirty so I wasn’t really concerned with how well the soap could clean.

After applying the soap and rinsing, the beading was obvious and reminded me very much of Hydro2.

Carpro Hydro2foam

Color: Clear, slight grey tint

Smells like: Paint. Not a very powerful scent to it, but it’s not like berry smelling or anything. Not offensive, just odd IMO

Consistency: Actually, this soap is pretty watery. Not very thick.

Cleaning power: ?/10. Hard to say, it cleaned the car no problem but it wasn’t very dirty to begin with. I’m not sure I’d use this soap on a heavy soiled car.

Foam: Out of the cannon, it was great.

Slickness: 7/10, very similar to Hydro2, but not as ‘glassy’ feeling

Pros:

Applies protection

Rinses easily and quickly

Ease of use

Cons:

Price? I guess you can argue that you're saving money by not using a wax though.

It didn’t seem to work too well on hard plastics, which I also noticed with Hydro2. The plastic chrome grille beaded just like the paint did though.

???

Durability

Overall: I am definitely impressed by this soap. It did exactly what it said it would, and I’m curious to see how it holds up. I trust Carpro, the bottle says ‘up to 3 months,’ so I expect just that. I’m not quite sure where exactly this soap would fit into MY personal regimen, if at all. I’ve mentioned before that I’m not a fan of topping LSPs on each other, and since my car is coated I don’t think it’s even necessary to use something like this over it. However, I know there are people who get peace of mind from layering, so if that’s something you want, I think this soap would be good for you. This also could be useful for a quick summer maintenance wash and wax type product if you’re short on time, and applying by the foam cannon makes it very easy to work with. Since the dilution ratio is also pretty low, I would also not recommend getting this unless you have a pressure washer. I tried it with a two bucket wash and it just didn’t work out well enough. I got very little beading from the buckets, though I’m chalking it up to user error because I’m terrible with math and most likely didn’t apply the correct amount of soap to water.

I think this is worth the try. It may be pricey, and you’re only going to get about 5 uses out of the bottle if you’re using it in the foam cannon, but it’s fun and easy to use. Good job Carpro!

2015 Ford Focus ST

I performed my Express Detail on this 2015 Ford Focus ST for a client. This client emailed me Thanksgiving morning hoping I could help with a gift his best friend "spilled" in his vehicle. I couldn't help him since I was on my way out of town, but I gave him instructions of how to help get the gift out. He ended up booking me to come over when I got back :)

His car is pretty new (a month + if I remember correctly), so my Express Detail was perfect for his vehicle.

This package is my most popular as I believe it's the most bang for your buck (or at least I tried to price it that way).

Products Used:

Wash

• Meg's Gold Class Shampoo
  
• Pressure Washer Foam Cannon
  
• Ryobi Pressure Washer
  
• Microfiber Chenille microfiber mitt
  
  Wheels
  
  
• APC (All Purpose Cleaner)
  
• Lug Nut Brush
  
• Wheel Master Brushes
  
  Decontamination
  
  
• IronX
  
  Clay
  
  
• Nanoskin Fine Sponge
  
• ONR (Lube Dilution)
  
  1-Step
  
  
• HD Speed
  
• Rupes Green Pad
  
  Interior
  
  
• ONR diluted for quick detailer
  
• Costco microfibers
  
• Boars hair brush
  
  Notes
  
  I found out that there is a special trick to putting this car in reverse. It involves lifting the collar below the shift knob. It's actually pretty interesting.
  
  Price: $215 + TIP
  
  Time: 4.5-5 Hours
  
  Thank you for your business fellow redditor :)

Here's my opinion

Shampoo- good choice, make sure you're using a washing mitt and not any kitchen sponge, something like http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405903374&sr=8-1&keywords=washing+mitt will be fine

Towel- while you can dry with any microfiber towel, it will be best to use one specifically made for drying so you don't have to wring out the towel after every wipe. Also, using a low quality microfiber has the possibility of scratching the paint. My recommendation would be http://www.theragcompany.com/Dry-Me-A-River-26-x-59-Premium-Microfiber-Waffle-Weave-Towel-42009-2659-OW.htm

Wax- I have no idea how much you want to spend, but if you're going to be applying it by hand you generally want to go with a carnuba wax as they are easier to apply and wipe off. My personal favorite is pinnacle souveran liquid wax. Probably out of the price range for a beginner, but it's super easy to apply/wipe off, and it produces amazing results and lasts a lot longer than other carnuba waxes. http://www.autogeek.net/pinliqsouvwa.html If you want something on the cheaper end and can be purchased in auto stores, go with Meguiar's gold class liquid wax. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7016-Carnauba-Premium-Liquid/dp/B0002UNOYM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405903940&sr=8-2&keywords=gold+class+wax

Applicators- If you're applying wax, go with a foam applicator pad like these lake country applicator pads(make sure they're the red color) with this palm grip

Headlights- If you have a power drill, I recommend this http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3000-Heavy-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B004HCOE72/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405904455&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+headlight kit as it attaches right to the drill and works very well.

You have quite the garage going there, and a good list of car care items. I was keeping up with a family and 3 cars, so my extra detail time was never quite abundant over the last few years. I previously had an arsenal of products like you, but narrowed it down to 3 to simplify and ease my busy life. I really liked the Nu Finish Liquid Polish and then gravitated to the wash last to cover was the plastic, rubber, and leather protectant. I had a couple different products, but the NuVinyl did all, including leather, that armor-all (basic) does not. As mentioned, I just had to simplify for many reasons and this worked for me. It may not be the professional kit of choice, but 3 products help keep my 3 cars in great shape.

And as far as applying compounds, polishes, or waxes, I spent years doing it by hand until I gave Meguiar's DA Power System a shot. Costs more then by hand (initially), but it goes quicker and produces a better product. This is the only product I tried, I am sure there are plenty of other options out there. Good luck cleaning!

>Whistles That is one NICE looking hood, you almost have me drooling on what the truck could look like. Ok so!

>1st: Nice two bucket cleaning

>2nd: Clay the car. was thinking of ordering this. From what I picked up from that Porsche 912 video in the sub and from the sidebar, I spray the clay lubricant on, then with little to no pressure wipe back and forth with the clay in a 18"x18" area. Does that sound right?

>3rd: Acquire rubbing compound and hopefully a DA polisher. (By the way if getting a DA polisher isn't possible, is this still attainable by hand?)

>4: Nice coat of wax

>How does that sound?

Correct. A 2-bucket wash will get most of the dirt off while not marring the paint any further than it already is.

Also, that is a very good clay kit. I will pre-warn you, claying is the absolute worst part of the job. It's rewarding afterward, but such a pain. If you want, there is stuff called "nanoskin" that has pretty much the same effect as clay but it requires a lot less effort. Check Amazon for "nanoskin fine grade sponge." It's like 11 bucks. Note that you'll still need to buy a quick detailer like the one in the clay kit for general purpose spray, so you may want to go for the clay kit. Get nanoskin when you're a little more familiar with detailing.

As you rub the clay, be sure it's well lubricated so the clay just glides. You will feel resistance to the gliding until the clay picks up all the grime. Then the clay will flow smooth. That's when you knead it and move to a new section.

If you choose to go DA polisher, beware that there are a lot more purchases that go along with it. You'll also need a backing plate and pads. That can become pricey. Polishing is attainable by hand, but very time-consuming. I'd recommend going panel by panel, day by day with hand method. Claying an entire car, then hand polishing it will make you want to never touch a car again haha.

I recommend you wash and clay the roof, then polish and wax. On a different day, do the same to the hood. The next day, tackle a quarter-panel. This will keep you sane.

This a a copy reply to a post from yesterday with pretty much the same question. This should help. YouTube the "Garry Dean Wash method" and do it that way.
___
Look into towels from The rag Company the [Eagle Edgeless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B00GXRG64I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465578999&sr=8-1&keywords=rag+company) , [platinum pluffle] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B01691FHKQ/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51ZnYnkDerL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=T72HWKSGJSNY28KCRR5N) and the [creature edgless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Dual-Pile-Microfiber/dp/B01CW21D9U/ref=pd_sim_263_23?ie=UTF8&dpID=61mdEodibyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=4930TCHKYCSNPB5QDMAF) are my favorite. They are just better quality then CG towels and are perfect for using the "Garry Dean" wash method which is good for apartment dwellers.

EDIT: Also look into [WolfGang Uber] (https://www.amazon.com/Wolfgang-WG-3700-Uber-Rinse-less/dp/B017KSJ5ZK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465579171&sr=1-1&keywords=wolfgang+uber) rinseless wash. Its more costlier but WELL WORTH it to me. I just got a gallon of it from their website. I use it for my business on some customers vehicles and they notice when I do. Its by far my favorite rinseless out there that I have used. I have tried numerous different ones. [ONRWW] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=sr-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) is good, don't get me wrong but I've had it streak and [ONR] (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=8-2&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) stains my wash media. I've never had a single issue with WG Uber and it smells like cherry candy. I feel like drinking the bottle every time I use it which makes it great to work with.

I would have taken more photos but I didn't set out with the intention of making a post; however, when I saw the results I knew I had to.

Like I said, this mini van only set me back $300. But just because it's a cheap turd doesn't mean you can't take some pride in it and at least put a ribbon on it.

Anyways, I'll add some more details left out of the post.

First I mixed up regular ole dish soap and water and grabbed some 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper, dunked it in the solution and let it soak while I taped off my headlights. I don't think you have to let it soak, but that's what I did. Once I finished taping off the lights, I started wet sanding and just redunked as needed for adequate lubrication.

Now I've read some posts on here about people saying it's easier to see when you're done sanding if you go in one direction for a certain grit and the opposite in another so you can see sanding lines. I didn't do that either. I just sanded it til I felt it was smooth and/or had been doing it for a couple minutes; up, down, left, right, circles. Whatever. It worked out for me.

Repeat exact same procedure for 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper.

Now, if you've never done this before you might start to get nervous, because at this stage your headlights look (somehow) even worse than when you started. Fret not my friend. Patience is a virtue.

Now I have a DA polisher, but these headlights are narrow. So I opted at just purchasing a generic named 3" backing plate, drill adapter and pad combo set off amazon. Some of the reviews said it wasn't the greatest. But that was fine by me. I just wanted them for this headlight. Those reviewers are wrong. I think they were thinking you could do an entire vehicle with these 3" pads. The pads and backing plate were high quality and for that price, even if they weren't I wouldn't have been all that upset. I highly recommend these.

I used the two flat top oranges pads for this project. First I used M105. Polished til it "flashed" then buffed it off with a microfiber towel. Switched to my other orange pad and polished with M205 following the same procedure.

Then I stood in awe of how great they came out. Did a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol, and two coats of collinite 845 that I applied with some cheap microfiber applicators for future uv protection.

Then I went and excitedly rushed my girlfriend outside to see. She was impressed but decidedly less than me.

Also, while I was doing this, a man approached me and asked me how much I'd charge to do his car. I talked with him a bit, and informed him that for the price I would charge to do his one car he'd be better off doing some research, buying his own supplies and just learning a new skill. He thought about it and excitedly told me he already had a drill and that he decided he'd do it. He went on to say he was also going to do not just his car, but also his mom's car and his girlfriend's car. He wrote down everything I said! Haha,I hope his come out as well as mine!

Edit: formatting/spelling

First of all, here's a link with some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/DdDMX8f

I just bought this car two weekends ago and I'm stoked. I have washed it once (normal two-bucket method, no polish/wax). I'm going to plan for a more in-depth detail this coming or the following weekend, so I'm planning on making some purchases and wanted to run them by you guys! My general plan is do a foam cannon spray, rest a little bit, rinse, decontaminate w/ Griot's Speed Shine and Griot's Synthetic Clay.

After decontamination, in the long run, I would like to put a coat of CQuartz. Beforehand, obviously, I need to remove as many of the swirls/scratches as possible. I don't have any experience yet with compounding/polishing so do you think I should try it first before buying the CQuartz, or should I just go for it?

Here's what I'd like to buy:

1. Soap - Currently I have a bottle of some basic Meguiars cheap stuff that I was using on my previous old cars. After reading around some, I was going to either go with Gold Class or Optimum Car Wash. CarPro Reset is another option for me as I would like to apply CQuartz eventually so I want something without additives and waxes. Currently I have Optimum Car Wash in my cart, any reason I should go with anything else? I know everyone raves about ONR, but is that more for maintenance washes? Haven't looked into it much yet.
   
2. Snow foam - Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam. I have a small bottle of this and I like the results, so I may buy a gallon unless I'm convinced otherwise!
   
3. Drying Towel - I have plenty of normal microfiber towels for touching up and interior work, but I don't have dedicated large drying towels. The Meguiar's X2000 drying towel was recommended a couple places on the sub and it seems like a good value; but I have heard Griot's is good as well. Any thoughts?
   
4. Polisher - Griot's Garage 6" DA Polisher. From what I have read, this seems to be one of the best-rated entry-level polishers. I haven't done enough research yet to know what type of pads/liquids I will need based on my specific paint, so I'll save those decisions for another day. The car was mostly well taken care of but there are a couple etched spots from what I'm assuming was bird poop or sap. There are a couple pictures in the album of this. Other than that, there seem to be an average amount of "swirl" marks but I'll need to do more research to determine what level of liquid/pads I need. I took the photos in the morning so I didn't have a good light source to show the "swirls".
   
   I already have some good stuff for cleaning wheels and I've been using Griot's Interior Detailer for the interior and it seems to be doing a good enough job. The interior isn't very dirty so just light cleaning suffices.
   
   As for CQuartz prep, before I am more confident in the paint correction process, should I apply a wax after polishing, or will that just make it more of a pain in the ass to decontaminate the paint when I decide to apply CQuartz in the next month or so? FYI, I'm going to be reading the DA polishing guides on this sub before I buy anything related to that.
   
   Any comments or suggestions on things I have selected?
   
   Thanks!

Buy three buckets, one for wheels, the others for a two bucket system.

Buy something to clean the wheels as well. I have the wheel woolies but I'm going to ask for the woolly wormit for my birthday from my wife.

Get a Waterless Wash and/or Quick Detailer for the times when you don't need a wash but you want to clean stuff up.

Take a look into this new Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax for a sealant. I have used the Fast Finish and it's great so this should be even better.

I also use Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax (D156 is the same but in a gallon jug) as a drying aid and it makes the car POP!


As a final suggestion, buy some 303 for the interior. You're going to love it. Not greasy, smells okay (not fruity), and leaves things looking great.

Been looking to detail my car, and while I am still getting my stuff along with trying to find the time to do it.. I've started to come up with a couple of questions.

1. Is it safe to use a magic eraser on the exterior / interior of my windshield + other glass on the car? Or would getting a drill adapter to polish the glass be a better option? Is there anything I can use to seal and protect the glass after cleaning it?
   
   The windshield has it's fair share of micro pitting and surface knicks (not cracks). And since a magic eraser acts as a very fine sandpaper I was thinking that it could possibly help to smooth out some of the pitting and knicks just to make these spots less noticeable when light hits it at certain angles.
   
   ​
   
   

2. What is the best product / way to darken the pillars on my doors and seal them?
   
   Currently they are not that faded, but id like to keep them up before they get to that point.
   
   ​
   
   
3. When I do detail the car I am planning to polish the car with Meguiar's M20508 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish then use Meguiar's G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax to protect it. What sort of pads or applicators do I need to apply this stuff?
   
   I have microfiber towels for cleaning and buffing but not sure what type of applicator pads to use.
   
   ​
   
   Also, any recommendations on a good / reliable, but repetitively inexpensive shopvac?
   Not looking for one with a bag or anything, just something for cleaning out the interior as those dam gas station vacuums are not worth 2$ for 4 minutes when you cant even get under the seats..
   
   ​
   
   Thank you for any and all feedback!

I wrote a small guide on machine polishing, you can find it here:

[Guide] The Getting Started into DA Polishing

I really like my Lake Country pads, but I've heard good things about other brands like Hex Logic. If you can get LC pads, pick up Orange(compounding), white(polishing), black(waxing).

For a compound, I always suggest
Meguiar's M105/Meguiars M205.

Always try the least aggressive method first, so polish before compound, then move to compounding if you were unsuccessful with just polishing.

I like Collinite 845 for wax, but there are plenty different brands out there to try out.

A Porter Cable is a good polisher, and it will definitely save you time while detailing.

Cool, so if you want to do it yourself, the basic things you need will be a clay bar (often sold as a kit with the "quick detailer" you need as a lubricant- see here). You will need a good number of microfiber cloths throughout the process. And then the main thing, is you need a dual-action polisher.

Popular options for the polisher include Harbor Freight, Porter-Cable, and Meguiar's. A lot of people have good results with the Harbor Freight polisher which you can pick up for, off the top of my head, something like $70. The porter-cable 7424XP is like $120ish, and the Meguiar's MT300 is about $200. Of course, if you wanted to spend more, there's Flex and Rupes, but you don't need any of that for personal use.

With the polisher, you will need pads- in your case, some pretty aggressive cutting pads along with finer polishing and finishing pads. There are a ton of options here. I would recommend at least two of each level of aggressiveness.

And with that, you will need compound and polish. Again, lots of options here, but at the very least you will want one more aggressive type of compound and then a finer type of polish.

You'll also want a couple other things, like a brush and soap to clean your pads with, and I recommend looking into using a diluted alcohol solution to clean between compounding and polishing steps.

I personally am a fan of Meguiar's, and in my opinion their lineup makes thing fairly simple. If you want to go the most cost-effective route, you could still buy the Harbor Freight polisher, and then use meguiar's pads and product (many people say the Harbor Freight pads are garbage, I have never used them so I don't really know).

As an example, you could use the Harbor Freight polisher, with Meguiar's microfiber cutting pads and M105 compound, then Meguiar's foam polishing pad and M205 polish.

There are so many options it's easy to get lost and confused, overall I think as long as you do enough research to understand the process of

washing->decontaminating->compounding->polishing

it won't make that much of a difference what products you use.

Look up Junkman's series of videos! In one set he stands up and dances on the hood of his car and then shows you how to fix the damage.

My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash, clay, Iron X treatment, Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:

Products Used:

• Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo
  
• Optimum No Rinse (Quick Detailer dilution for claying)
  
• CarPro's Iron X for decontamination
  
• Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge
  
• Meguiar's D101 (4:1 on tires, wheel wells - 10:1 on the interior)
  
• Aerospace 303 Protectant for interior dressing
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
• Harbor Freight DA Polisher w/ Buff & Shine 5.5" red pad
  
• Wheel Woolies
  
• Solo Horton Brushes
  
• Other assorted brushes
  
• Microfiber towels from The Rag Company
  

• 0000 Steel Wool from Home Depot (used with QD for the exhaust tips)
  

• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel applied via foam block
  
• Stoner's Invisible Glass
  
  Overall a fun job! Got rewarded with a hearty lunch of sausage and peppers on Italian bread. Happy detailer!!

Ok so there are three 2015 and newer cars in my family and we all make sure they are always looking their best

1)I, the one who is investing and discovering the joy on detailing cars, would like to ask if there are any products i can buy in concentrates that will last me a life time such as Quick Detailers, Interior cleaner, tire, spray quick wax and wheel cleaners ETC? I see so many products in the wiki its kind of over whelming. I currently only have to last me a while for my car (Megs OTC recommended kit)

2) My Car, 2016 Mazda 3 5-door SGT, has a crap load of leather and soft interior. I kinda bit off more than i can chew in terms of maintenance. Is there and interior cleaner i can use for everything (currently have Megs Quik Interior Detailer) including the leather?

3) Are these any good? [These applicators from TCG] (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_292_08-Microfiber-Applicators/dp/B00BTGSGFK/ref=pd_cart_pd_ecc_rvi_cart_2_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=19GM4RBQY3NSV7336751&th=1) seem to be on sale. should i stock up?

I used:

Meguiar's Headlight Restoration Kit

It cost me pretty much the same price at Wal-Mart and bought a pack of 8 micro-fiber towels with it for an additional 5$.


You can kind of tell the right headlight came out a bit better, and well they didn't come out as good as I expected. I also did it by hand and did not use any powertools.

BUT WOW! The improvement is massive, You can really tell the difference when you're driving at night.

(You can tell by the seventh picture.)

Are you sure you used the kit correctly? I restored my beater's headlights with Megiuar's G3000 kit and the turnout was pretty good. The thing is, the entire process took me about 30 minutes of sanding per headlight (I was a bit timid with it at first).

Additionally, headlights need to have UV protection on them or the hazing will come back. The gel stuff that comes with the kit will only last about 1 month before you need to re-apply it. Your best bet is to apply a longer lasting product like Opti-Lens to ensure permanant protection.

I have a few small scratches and many swirl marks on my instrument cluster cover (Jeep Grand Cherokee). I have tried to buff them out by hand, which helped with the big scratches, but not the swirl marks. I know the DA Power System Tool attachment isn't popular around here, but it fits my budget well, and I think it would work well for removing those swirls. What do you guys think of that tool, with PlastX, to clean up the instrument cluster? (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3500-Power-System-Tool/dp/B009OBVRY4/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1523631233&sr=1-8&keywords=DA+polisher)

Thanks guys!

Don't use autozone towels, the last ones I bought from there were 100% polyesther and can't absorb anything. I have a pile of these useless towels now and they're going to the garbage.

All links provided are Amazon.com links:

Get a towel that's 80% polyesther, 20% polyamide. It will absorb better. Meguiar's Supreme Shine towels. Get a bunch of them. Also a Water Magnet Towel for drying. When drying, you should get the microfiber / water magnet drying towel damp first, it will absorb more water much more easily.

Cheapest and quickest way to remove swirls, my recommendation is Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and some Gold Class wax. This kit has everything you need for $25 including the microfiber towels and foam pads: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3300-Brilliant-Solutions-Restoration/dp/B004EB12FS

Expensive but quickest and most effective way, get Meguiar's DA microfiber correction kit http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-DMCKIT5-Microfiber-Correction-System/dp/B00CJ69F2W and buy the porter cable polisher. Also I recommend getting the Meguiar's car correction kit I linked above with this. You'll get excellent results.

Separate all your towels. Use dring towels only for drying, wax towels only for waxing, polishing towels only for polishing, and Glass towels (rainX) only for glass.

I was also a beginner at the beginning of the year. I went out and bought [Meguiars 105] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496750162&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+105), and [Meguiars 205] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003LMJP4Q&pd_rd_r=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG&pd_rd_w=WZ6u4&pd_rd_wg=LD9ed&psc=1&refRID=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG), a [chicago electric DA from harbor freight] (https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-Amp-Heavy-Duty-Dual-Action-Variable-Speed-Polisher-62862.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODkwMjE0MTgiLCJza3UiOiI2Mjg2MiIsImlzIjoiNDkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMTE0NDYifQ%3D%3D%0D%0A), and ordered [orange and white hex logic pads from amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX-102-HEX5-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496750285&sr=1-1&keywords=hex+logic+pads). This will be a good start. Get these things, should cost between 120 and 150 for all of it depending on where you buy, and that DA goes on sale quite often, looks like it's currently down to 49.99, so now would be the time to buy. I started off doing my Formula and then did my Sierra, and now have had a few other people come to me for correction and have a pretty good grasp on what I'm doing.

1. Watch tutorials by Junkman2000 on youtube.
   
2. Use the right size pads for your backing plate. The DA listed above comes with a 6" flimsy backing plate, and you should replace it with a 5" so it is smaller and easier to work with. Mark your backing plate as well, so if you push too hard, you'll see it stop spinning. Good for figuring out how much force you SHOULD be using.
   
3. Take your time, and work at it slowly, you will have results.

The one in the video with Jay obviously is on the professional price level. The steamer you posted is questioned commonly on this subreddit and from what I have read the determination is it cant hold up for the demands of auto cleaning. I personally have not used it so I cannot say. But I would highly recommend the McCulloch MC1275. It is just over the $100 mark but is a amazing investment just not for cars. The steamer changed the way I wash my hard wood floors, my tile, bathrooms, showers and kitchen not just my car. But its amazing for cars as well. Its strong enough to steam carpets with a microfiber towel wrapped around the end and steam engine bays with tough oils. I think the issue with low end steamers is they simply dont get hot enough which results in not great steam and just hot water leaking out the end. This does not have that issue what so ever. The unit was recommended to me by Larry at AMMO NYC who is a legend on this subreddit. Here is his video on steaming the interior: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JT10-bIAgyk

http://www.amazon.com/McCulloch-MC-1275-Heavy-Duty-Steam-Cleaner/dp/B0000DF0RB/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417396909&sr=8-1&keywords=steamer+mcculloch

Unfortunately I wasn't able to bring my detailing supplies to school with me, which had some rather good items.

I am looking to buy some stuff while I'm down at school to take care of my car tell me what you think:

Grit Guard x2 $8.82x2

Wheel Brush $5

Rain-X Glass Cleaner and Repellant $5.27

Meguiar's Supreme Shine Protectant $4.87

Meguiar's Hot Rim All Wheel Cleaner $5.87

Meguiars Gold Class Wash $6.97

Meguiar's Endurance Tire Gel $7.44

Meguiars Ultimate Wash and Wax $ 8

Meguiar's Ultimate Fast Finish $8

Total $78.73 with tax

and then was planning on picking up this microfiber wash mop with pole:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EA6DCBI/ref=crt_ewc_title_oth_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

$15

Optimum No Rinse $20

and then i already have 2 buckets and microfiber cloths

What do you guys think? I'm already at the max of my budget. If you think I could get better stuff for the same price else where let me know what you think. Any help would be appreciated

I have been using THIS for my interior (dashboard and door panels). So far I am liking it.

I heard positive reviews of 303 Spray

Which one do you recommend? Or is there any product more best bang for my buck?

Thank you!

Awesome job man and beautiful Rex! I picked up a 14 about 2 weeks ago. I was wondering, how do you apply the Blacklight and the detailer? I see these on Amazon, would they be good? I'm new to detailing. Just wanted a quick tip :)

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Premium-Microfiber-Applicators/dp/B00BTGSGFK/ref=pd_sim_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=18KSY6J0SCEKA3C6W8RK

I'm looking into buying a power washer for general use around the house, and for washing my car.

I think my sweet spot is going to be one of these SunJoe's, but I've read they like to use proprietary connectors. I was hoping on using a foam cannon like this MATCC, but it sounds like it won't be that simple.

Have you had any issues with the one you got? Any recommendations on accessories?

I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:

• Meguiar's D101 APC - the D103 APC+ has apparently been discontinued.
  
• Two Chemical Guys detailing bucket kits, which each have a bucket, lid, grit guard, 16oz citrus wash, and some washing pad thing I didn't really want.
  
• Two-pack of Rag Company Dry Me a River towels
  
• Five-pack of Rag Company detailing towels
  
• Bottle of Stoner Invisible Glass
  
• Two-pack of Griot's Garage microfiber wash mitts
  
• A Nanoskin wash mitt
  
• 32oz Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax - for use as a quick detailer and easy maintenance washing.
  
• Lexol leather care kit
  
• Thee-pack of spray bottles
  
• A microfiber window towel
  
• A cheap electric blower
  
• 16oz Chemical Guys Jetseal
  
• Microfiber applicators
  
  I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
  
  Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.

Biggest difference between the SPX3000 and SPX4000 is the form factor. The SPX4000 has a sort of frame around it, making it more stable than the SPX3000. Other minor differences include two detergent tanks (on the SPX3000) versus one and the SPX4000 has two different pressure settings (1450 PSI and 2030 PSI). I personally don't really need the detergent tank and rarely use the lower pressure setting, but I suppose it is nice to have when needed. Other than those three minor differences, the units are identical (motor, fittings, etc all the same). I'd personally recommend the SPX4000 just for the more stable base.

I use this foam cannon with my SPX4000 and have no complaints. This foam cannon also gets great reviews and is slightly cheaper.

I'd also highly recommend getting the hose extension. You don't need any extra fittings to connect it and it gives you 25 more feet to work with.

A microfiber or foam applicator pad is what you should probably use.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-Soft-Foam-Applicator/dp/B0009IQZPW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407524279&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+applicator+pad
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3080-EvenCoat-Applicator-Pads/dp/B0009IQZQG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407524279&sr=8-3&keywords=meguiars+applicator+pad

Since your just starting out this might be a good kit http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3300-Brilliant-Solutions-Restoration/dp/B004EB12FS/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1407524279&sr=8-13&keywords=meguiars+applicator+pad

Depending on your budget and how much you see washing by hand etc, you might look at /u/TheRagCompany microfibers. They are really liked here, I just got mine and are going to try them out tonight.

Make sure to read up on good technique on the wash and correction so you don't introduce any more scratches etc.

I just bought a ryobi 2000psi 1.2 gpm machine and a $20 MATTC foam gun and it worked extremely well, just like the chemical guys videos, tons of fun. The pressure washer also cleaned my deck and driveway surprisingly well. I'm super pleased with it. If you're ordering online the sun joe spx3000 is more powerful for the same price, at 2030 psi and 1.75 gpm, but being able to go a mile from my house to return my unit if anything came up was a big point to me too.

Foam Gun

I used chemical guys citrus wash and gloss (it's worth it to get a gallon) with three pumps (3oz) and the foam cannon turned full open to max foam. It made a really thick shaving cream like lather.

Hey man, what an awesome job!
I am preparing to do my first detail by hand too...just wanted to get your ideas. Which pads did you use for the ultimate compound? Any of these you recommend? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZQG/ or http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-HiTech-Applicator-Pad-Pack/dp/B0009IQZPW


Did you switch pads on each of those steps (ie, compound, polish, wax..)

I'm thinking to:

1. Wash + Dry
   
2. Clay Bar + Dry
   
3. Compound
   
4. Polish
   
5. Wax
   
   Is there any breaks in between any of those processes? Or can I do it one after the other consecutively.
   
   Thanks buddy :):)
   

I agree but man even my cheapo corded da polisher outlasts me on a day’s work. I just throw the cord over my shoulder and it keeps on kicking. I think you’d almost be better off getting a really long extension cord or even a cheaper generator. If you’re in range to charge the batteries while you’re using the other one, you’re in range for an extension cord. You could always do something like the meguiars DA attachment for drills and just use a cordless one. It’s a direct drive system for like $80 maybe?

Edit: Meg’s power system

Awesome! You definitely helped. One final question if it's ok. Will the following steps (in order) be good for a first time wash/detail?

1. Wash the car with this soap.
   
   
2. Scrub with these
   
   
3. Dry off with this
   
   
4. Decontaminate with [this]
   (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER), while using this as the lube for it?

Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.

> Wheel

Wheel soap:

• Meguiar's Non-Acid Wheel & Tire Cleaner D143
  
  Wheel cleaner:
  
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus
  
  Tire dressing:
  
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel
  
  Wheel wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Paint
  
  Paint soap:
  
  
• Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner
  
  Paint soap addition:
  
  
• Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine
  
  Leaf blower:
  
  
• Worx Turbine WG520
  
  Clay bar:
  
  
• YGDZ Auto Detailing Magic Claybar
  
  Dual action polisher:
  
  
• Heavy Duty Dual Action Variable Speed Polisher from Harbor Freight
  
  Backing plate:
  
  
• Astro 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad
  
  Pad:
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Orange Polishing Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS White Smart Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Black Finessing Pad
  
  Compound:
  
  
• Meguiar's M105 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound
  
  Polish:
  
  
• Meguiar's M205 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish
  
  Sealant/wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Interior
  
  Carpet cleaner:
  
  
• Adam's Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner
  
  Dashboard cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather conditioner:
  
  
• Lexol Leather Deep Conditioner
  
  Glass cleaner:
  
  
• Rain-X Glass Cleaner
  
  There are a bunch of other tools not listed here, but the ones listed above are the areas I am most concerned about.
  
  > Other Concerns
  
  I am still anxious about spraying water in my engine bay, so I decided to use a spray bottle with soap and water and a microfiber towel to wipe down the engine bay while it is still decently clean. Can I use diluted Meguiar's D143 or will I have to purchase Meguiar's D101 instead? Can the Optimum Tire Gel be used on the black plastics of the engine bay, as well as the other black trims of my car?
  
  I want to protect my interior, in addition to cleaning it. I am very confused on what product I need to use to protect my dashboard from the sun. The same goes for the leather seats, where the creases are forming. I have been using a conditioner (although I am unsure of the exact name) to slow down the crease formation. Should I use the same product for both the dashboard and leather seats (with Lexol Conditioner on top of that)? I have heard of Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean, but I am unsure of when I should use that.

The clay kit says it comes with some clay lube, but thanks for the tip!

Foam applicators like this: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-Soft-Foam-Applicator/dp/B0009IQZPW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395465318&sr=8-1&keywords=foam+applicator?

And would I use the mitt in place of all the microfiber towels or just in some cases?

Thanks!

Awesome! Thank you for the help.

For the Carpro Perl. Am i suppose to dilute it? Also for appying it do you recommend oine of these to apply it 1 2 3

I'm thinking #1 for applying the wax and #2 for the plastic trim.

The second bucket is a "rinse" bucket. It is used to clean the dirt off your mitt from the dirt it encounters on your car. It contains just water, and you rub your mitt on the grit guard to get all the dirt and grime off off it. Then I typically ring it out and put it into my "wash" bucket. This bucket contains the actual car wash, I run the mitt along the grit guard and then ring it a bit and use it on the car again.
This video will provide a little insight into the process.

As far as applicator pads go, it's best to go with a foam applicator when it comes to applying wax. The reason for this is simply because a foam applicator is going to evenly distribute the wax and not provide any abrasiveness against the surface of your paint. These pads by Meguiar's should do the trick. I personally use Pinnacle Polyfoam pads from AutoGeek.net, but these are probably the same thing, they just have the Meguiar's logo.

I would recommend not using a pad for different applications. Keep one pad for wax, one for sealant, etc. The foam pads I linked can be used for sealant and wax.

However, for compound, I would go with a microfiber applicator if you are going to do it by hand. You may not get stellar results this way, but it may work, I personally have never tried it. The reason for microfiber pads here is because they offer a little more abrasiveness against your paint as opposed to the foam applicators. These may do the trick if you want to apply compound and polish by hand.

Thanks. Sounds like it's not going to damage the car, so it's definitely worth trying. FYI, both ONR and Aero do, in fact, claim to be wax. So it's good to know that they, in fact, are not.

Yup, Ultimate Polish will work just fine, but if you're going off Amazon anyway I'd go with M205. It's basically the pro version of UP and has slightly more cut but finishes extremely well.

And yeah, you'll need to rewax after, but make sure you're using an IPA spray first to remove the oils so it bonds well! Which Youtube video watch before, btw?

Your list looks good, but is lacking a few item IMO:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396913798&sr=1-1&keywords=microfiber+wash+mitt The mitt you listed should be fine, but I use these. I have 3 of them and it's good to have more than one lying around in case one gets too dirty during the wash. I like to use a different one for the bottom of my car anyway.

I'd get at least one more pack of those Chemical Guys microfiber towels. The more the better.

I use Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner. http://www.amazon.com/Sonax-230200-755-Wheel-Cleaner/dp/B003UT3S6Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396914006&sr=1-1&keywords=sonax+full+effect+wheel+cleaner It's a bit pricey but it's very effective at removing brake dust.

For applying the wax, you'll need an applicator pad http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-Soft-Foam-Applicator/dp/B0009IQZPW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396914054&sr=1-1&keywords=foam+applicator+pad

I used this one about a month ago on my 2005 Jaguar S-Type that had some pretty bad yellowing and oxidation and it worked pretty well.

I'm about to go redo it with a 3M kit though because I'm starting to see yellowing again and there is still some slight oxidation.

Mine were pretty bad, and yours don't sound as bad as mine, so the Meguiars will work fine if you don't mind putting in some muscle work. The 3M kits have pretty good reviews and tend to use drills. So I would use either one, depending on what you want to spend, or if you have a drill or not.

I have 34" all terrain tires with plenty of knobs on the sidewall. This works wonderfully. I spray my tire dressing/shine onto it, dab it onto a handful of spots around the wheel, then spread. Works great, really easy on the hands, a little up/down on the knobs gets on and between them really quickly, and I don't get any overspray on the paint, ground, or wheels.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DNJPSC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Whistles That is one NICE looking hood, you almost have me drooling on what the truck could look like. Ok so!

1st: Nice two bucket cleaning

2nd: Clay the car. was thinking of ordering this. From what I picked up from that Porsche 912 video in the sub and from the sidebar, I spray the clay lubricant on, then with little to no pressure wipe back and forth with the clay in a 18"x18" area. Does that sound right?

3rd: Acquire rubbing compound and hopefully a DA polisher. (By the way if getting a DA polisher isn't possible, is this still attainable by hand?)

4: Nice coat of wax

How does that sound?

Can you order off of amazon?

I would recommend using Griot's Garage Glass Polish.

I used this along with a glass polishing pad on my DA and quickly cleaned an entire window that was absolutely covered with overspray from a single stage paint job. Since you don't have a DA I would recommend a handheld pad such as a CG Polishing Pad.

However before trying the polish you might try using glass clay. It works pretty well - it should remove the gunk/spots but may not remove tough water spots. If you do use the clay I use Meguiar's or Stoner glass cleaner as lubrication.

Hope some of this will help!

Also on a side note - the pad you used probably didn't do much, if any, damage to the windshield, automotive glass is pretty tough stuff.

Gotcha, had a feeling I had to get a better attachment. Would this this suffice as a more budget friendly attachment?

Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),

• Harbor Freight DA
  
  
• Meg's Endurance Tire Gel
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Protectant
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
  
• Meg's APC
  
  
• Rag Company's Borderless Blonde
  
  
• Rag Company's Waffle Weave
  
  
• Hex Logic White Pad (3)
  
  
• Hex Logic Orange Pad (2)
  
  
• Hex Logic Red Pad (2)
  
  
• M105
  
  
• M205
  
  
• 3M Auto Tape
  
  
• Mother's Wheel Brush
  
  
• ABN Woolies
  
  
• Trim Brush
  
  
• Chem Guys Wash Mitt (2)
  
  
• Mother's Clay Bar Kit
  
  This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
  
  Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
  
  Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.

I've only owned a single foam cannon and that's the MTM Hydro Professional. This one has a smaller orifice specifically meant to be used with electric pressure washers that don't output the same water as gas pressure washers.

When I was researching foam cannons, I noticed the community was split on cheap <$20 foam cannons (the ones that pop up on Amazon by searching for "foam cannon"), and by higher end >$50 foam cannons like the MTM I have.

A lot of people were saying the cheaper ones performed just as well as the expensive ones, and a lot of people said they didn't. One thing I knew for sure from watching take-apart videos, was that the internal construction for more expensive foam cannons was a lot better than the cheaper ones. I figured if I was going to be using this in a business setting, I should opt for the more expensive one ensuring I get the better quality.

Products used:

• 303 Aerospace protectant for interior
  
  
• Stoner Invisible Glass for windows, mirrors, etc
  
  
• Chemical Guys waffle weave towel for use with glass cleaning
  
  
• Basic microfibers
  
  
• Mothers Reflections Tire Care for tires
  
  
• Mothers Microfiber drying towel for drying whole car
  
  
• Black and Decker cordless vacuum
  
  
• Eagle One 665854 All Wheel and Tire Cleaner
  
  
• Meguiar's G14422 Ultimate Quik Detailer
  
  
• There's also opticoat on the whole car
  
  The new products were the Eagle One wheel cleaner and the Meguiar's Quik Detailer. I'm very happy with them!

Never heard of the brand till now. Amazon has mixed reviews but it you do buy it and have Amazon Prime you could get it in 2 days.

Most people here have this steamer: Amazon I've had mine for 3 years or so still works great.

Hey Larry, love your videos.

Two questions:

1. What's good starting entry level steam cleaner or water extractor for those who detail on a budget?
   
2. What about this for a starter DA Polisher?

How long do Sun Joe washers usually last? I just purchased the Sun Joe SPX3000 February 22nd. So far it's been pretty great; however, I do wish the hose for the gun was longer. I find myself having to move the washer a lot and with three separate wires/hoses to watch out for, they can get tangled pretty easily. I bought a foam cannon for it too and have been using Meguiar's Gold Class with it (not foaming that great, but I want to use it all before I move onto Chemical Guy's Mr. Pink). Your comment indicating that they aren't built to last has me questioning my purchase.

 

Would you happen to have any recommendations for a pressure washer that will last a while, good quality, less than $200, and still works with the electric pressure washer version of the MTM Foam Cannon?

I feel like these steamers don't produce enough hot steam to make it effective. It'll be shooting hot water more than steam. IMO, there are better cleaning methods than using a subpar steamer.

If you do decide to get a steamer, there are a couple users that get the McCulloch steamers that you can find on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/McCulloch-MC-1275-Heavy-Duty-Steam-Cleaner/dp/B0000DF0RB/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413395220&sr=8-1&keywords=mcculloch+steamer

The potential hazards are that if you accidentally missed a spot while washing, you have a very high chance of dragging dirt across your paint. Best case scenario you get a light swirl mark or streak. Worst case scenario you grind away much deeper into your clear coat causing damage, thus requiring paint correction using compounding and polishing.

It's just best to avoid it and use a better option such as a quality micro fiber cloth designed for the purposes of drying paint.

EDIT: /u/theragcompany these guys are pretty awesome. I'd recommend a waffle weave towel like this http://www.theragcompany.com/products/premium-microfiber-16-x-24-waffle-weave-towel.html but other manufacturers make them as well. https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X2000-Magnet-Microfiber-Drying/dp/B0009IQZFM/

I'm looking for some assistance with finishing up a cleanup job on some tree sap that inundated my windshield. It got covered in thousands of flecks of tree sap a few weeks ago, and while clay barring it this weekend removed most of it (and finally made my windshield non-dangerous when facing the sun), it didn't quite remove all of the sap. There are still very slight flecks visible in the windshield when looking through it from the inside directly at a light source. It looks like this, but much less pronounced (that photo was taken before the clay bar).

I would love to remove the last of these flecks and bring my windshield back to its pristine transparency from when I got the car delivered 2 months ago, but I just don't have a clue what to do. This was the very first time I've ever done clay bar, and I used this product. Maybe a different product would get rid of the last remnants of that sap?

I believe these are the exact ones I am using. I bought them off amazon a while ago. Whoolies

Based on what you said about your wheels though I'd still recommend the EZ Detail Brush. If they're tight spokes, you probably won't even be able to utilize the large one. The other two are significantly smaller than the large one.

The only downside to the EZ detail is the spray back from the nylon bristles. As you pull it out of the spokes, it tends to spray back a lot of the chemical from the bristles wicking around.

There are much better steamers out there. I would recommend this. https://www.amazon.com/McCulloch-MC1275-Heavy-Duty-Steam-Cleaner/dp/B0000DF0RB/ref=sr_1_14?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1479317480&sr=1-14&keywords=steamer
You will find ways to use it :)

Pan The Organizer has a video on this, he and many others use Wolfgang rinse less wash diluted. I do this paired with a hand pump sprayer, works great.


Wolfgang Concours Series WG-3700 Uber Rinse Less Wash, 16 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KSJ5ZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zWCPDbZYDEG1N

I was very happy with:

Chemical Guys, Microfiber Towel

Chemical Guys, Microfiber Drying Towel

Still looking for a good wax though...

Alright will do. I always thought it would be good to soak in the foam while I fill the buckets.

I use this foam canon and this pressure washer. I fill it 10:1 and use distilled water in the canister. It does have a knobs at the tops that control how the foam comes out and I have it set with the metal parts more spread open to give a thicker stream of liquid.

This is my set up and works great. The reviews say the MTM doesn't work with the SunJoe SPX3000 but it does. I've ordered 3 in total for friends and myself. All of them has came with the 1/4in fitting and works perfect with the SPX3000. So the idiots that left the reviews saying it does not work must not know how to change out the fittings or something?
Sun Joe SPX3000 Pressure Joe 2030 PSI 1.76 GPM 14.5-Amp Electric Pressure Washer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPGMUXW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_-TMtzb9F0DSFK

MTM Hydro Professional Adjustable Foam Cannon with Bayonet, 2600 PSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDSLVQC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_BVMtzbW630TGF

ABN Car Wheel Rim Cleaning 3-Piece Kit – Original Wheel Woolies Brush Stick Tool – Tire Woolie – Wooly Wand Set (3 Brushes) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3KDUD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_29H4Cb8QDYCDY

I’ve had these for 3+ years and they work wonderfully on all of our rims (3 styles of 5-spokes). Worth every penny.

Sorry for graveposting, want to make sure I grab the right foam cannon:

This is the low psi version: Professional 2600 PSI Adjustable Foamer
and this is the high psi version: Professional Foam Lance Adjustable with 32 oz. Bottle

right? it looks like the low psi version doesn't come with quick disconnects, which I'm pretty sure I need to connect to my pressure washer, right?

Seems like you're in good shape. Do you have a wax or sealant yet?

I use these but honestly I rarely use them.

I just did my wife's car with this kit and the results were pretty amazing.

The video shows the big red sponge. I personally use these for my wash:

Chemical Guys MIC_506_12 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold (16 in. x 16 in.) (Pack of 12)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQYCIVI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this for drying (I have two) + Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Wax or CarPro Reload (depending if I have it)

Chemical Guys MIC_781_01 Waffle Weave Gray Matter Microfiber Drying Towel (25 in. x 36 in.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQYCIVI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use one microfiber at a time on the plush side folded into quarters. I spray the panel with the bucket mixture put into one of these sprayers and wipe the panel down in ONE direction relative to the towel. When a side gets dirty I flip and when all 4 are dirty I get a new towel. I go through a lot of towels but they wash out easily.

Solo 418 One-Hand Pressure Sprayer, 1-Liter, Ergonomic Grip for Gardening, Fertilizing, Cleaning & General Use Spraying

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BX4VXI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Also in the winter, you can fill the bucket with warm water AND do it in the garage. It's amazing.

I purchased a knock-off on Amazon (MATCC) and have been very happy with it. It's hooked up to a 3000 PSI gas powered pressure washer so I'm sure that helps, but I've gotten good results. The review with the pic of a Yukon on there is mine.

Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CE78VO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

how about the Meguiar's one?

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X2000-Magnet-Microfiber-Drying/dp/B0009IQZFM/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1405130888&sr=1-1&keywords=waffle+weave+drying+towel

$7.26 each?... any good?

BTW, I use a chamois to dry my car. One is almost as old as I am and the other one is a new synthetic one... so... anything else might be an improvement

I've tried brushes and microfiber. They both have their flaws. I recently picked up a applicator pad from Adams. I'm liking it more and more. Definitely give this a shot. It seems to work very well on my aggressive sidewall tires.

Adam's Hex-Grip Pro Tire Dressing Applicator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNJPSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1x3ODbKA97JGD

What makes you so sure it is in the inside? It might appear to be but it usually isn't. I have used Meguiar's G3000 Heavy duty kit and worked great for me. Link

I used to use those microfiber circular applicator pads but didn't like them. No where to really grip it from and it just felt awkward using it. And then I found the microfiber blocks and they made the job MUCH easier. Bigger coverage as well as a place for your hands to hold. I'd recommend these over the circle pads any day.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BTGSGFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:

1. Meguiar's Clay bars and quik detail spray
   
   
2. Butt-load of microfiber towels
   
   
3. Waffle-weave drying towel
   
   
4. Grit-guards
   
   
5. Iron X wheel cleaner
   
   
6. Industrial Spray bottles
   
   
7. Meguiar's Gold Class car wash soap
   
   
8. Meguiar's Gold Class Wax
   
   
9. Purple Power
   
   
10. Proper wash mitt
    
    I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
    
    -Pressure Washer
    
    -Foam Cannon
    
    -Detailing brushes
    
    -Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
    
    -ETC
    
    

Meguiars 205, HD Polish, McKee's 37 Fast Polish, Menzerna 3500 come to mind. And honorary mention for HD Speed (All In One or Polish + Sealant) since it's not just a polish but is soooooo good.

1.) Washed the entire car using a large bucket of water and Meguiar's Gold Class Wash Shampoo with a large grout sponge.

2.) Rinsed the car with clean water from a hose and spray nozzle.

3.) Dried the car using The Supreme Guzzler Waffle Weave by Cobra

4.) Clayed the car using Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit

5.) Buffed the car with a microfiber towel as I went over it with the clay.

6.) Waxed the car using a dual action polisher and Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0

7.) Buffed again with a microfiber towel as I went over each panel.

I just picked up a greenworks myself just to clean off my car quicker and no trips to the car wash during winter.

I noticed that on the electric power washers the soap attachment is NOT anywhere near as good as the MTM foam cannon my buddy has on is. So I did a quick order on amazon.

The one you need for Karcher is this one https://www.amazon.com/MTM-Hydro-Professional-Adjustable-Bayonet/dp/B00EDSLVQC

I'm planning on getting this clay kit to get some surface rust spots off of my car. Does the Quik Detailer work as a wax/sealant or is it just for lubrication while claying? If it's just for lube what wax/sealant/applicators would you guys recommend? I'm not looking to spend a lot. Thanks!

I️ have a hex logic tire shine applicator: Adam's Hex-Grip Pro Tire Dressing Applicator - Ergonomic Design Makes Detailing Your Tires Easier - Mess Free Application Tire Dressings - Durable, Washable, and Reusable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNJPSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ci8XAb5P1WQP5

Does anyone clean theirs? I’ve heard it’s a waste of any product that is potentially remaining in the applicator, but if you were to clean them, how should I️ go about cleaning it?

Thanks for all the info! I ended up buying the MATCC one from Amazon and will prolly pick up the 1.1mm orifice that @Ziomalski suggested. I chose this cannon b/c I know it fits the SPX3001 out the box.

Will be here today. Excited to see the results.

Just a note, if you get the MTM foam cannon made for electric power washers like the sun joe you will get thicker foam than the one you chose. That one is more suited for more powerful power washers.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDSLVQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, if you haven't seen already my setup is here: https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/comments/8hnuto/my_budget_friendly_wallmounted_sunjoe_w_aquarium/

I'd try some type of glossy interior detailer. It will cover it up and possibly restore some of the oils back into the plastic.

​

This is good stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW

​

If it's painted, you might be out of luck. It looks like bare plastic in the pic but I just saw you comment about taking the paint off.

if by "invisible glass" you mean this, then that's the best product to use.

as for towels, just go to any Advance Auto Parts/AutoZone/etc to get some microfiber towels.

We have an entry in the wiki regarding this question. https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/wiki/pressurewashers . I personally use this foam canon and I love its performance. It comes with 3 adapters, it should have the quick disconnect fitting you need. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EDSLVQC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just get an electric power washer with 2000 psi and this foam cannon from Amazon.

You may have to remove the original adapter the factory put on the foam cannon with the American standard in order for it to fit onto the sprayer.

Afterwards, enjoy!. Don't mind the spec sheet at the bottom of the list. It's outdated.

I use this one with my ARBlue 390SS and Meg's Gold Class. It has two adjustments, one to change the shape of the spray and another to adjust ratio of water:soap mix. I'm not sure exactly which foam lance you have, but if it doesn't have a dilution adjustment, that may be the issue.

You could also try increasing the soap:water ratio in your bottle to get it thicker, to see if that helps instead of buying a new foam gun.

Edit: Changed link to proper model for electric power washers. Thanks, TimeToGrowThrowaway

For leather, regular 303 Aerospace Protectant actually works great. I've gotten numerous comments about how well my leather has held up, and I attribute it to this.

I also do a yearly deep clean, and somewhat regularly wipe down with plain water. It may not be a "sealant", but it lasts quite a long time.

This is correct. I'd start with Clay like this though:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016-Smooth-Surface-Clay/dp/B00063X7KG

You can also find it at local auto parts stores. It will help remove any above-surface damage, and will do a good job of showing you what you're working with.

I was considering these also. How is yours better?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TZBB3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414699682&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0057O0GSA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1414699720&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009IQZFM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414700082&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

I've been using an MTM Hydro for ~8 years now, it's fantastic.

https://www.amazon.com/MTM-Professional-Adjustable-Cannon-Bayonet/dp/B00EDSLVQC

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016-Smooth-Surface-Clay/dp/B00063X7KG

Also, you might want to check out this video, it pretty much covers the whole process, using the same products in the Blackfire kit:

https://youtu.be/-YIYfAS9vR4

Which tire dressing applicator is better. adam's or chemical guys?

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_3002-Contoured-Applicator/dp/B00BJCHTFW/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1511342196&sr=1-4&keywords=tire+dressing+applicator

https://www.amazon.com/Adams-Hex-Grip-Tire-Dressing-Applicator/dp/B005DNJPSC/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1511342196&sr=1-11&keywords=tire+dressing+applicator

I've got the MATCC Foam Cannon - use it with honeydew. Paired with the Powerstroke electric pressure washer that they sell at Costco for $150 it's a great combo without spending crazy money.

I bought this steam cleaner and it's great. I get about 2 hours worth of detailing before having to refill. The only downside is there is no pressure relief valve so you have to be damn sure it's cold before opening.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DF0RB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yvFzybM8HWTZ5

Last question, which one is better?
This:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FB8U

Or this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO

And would both work while using clay for decontamination?

Hello! I bought a new car a little over a month ago and I wanted to do some basic cleaning with it, stuff that can be done maybe a couple times a month, since I never personally did that with my previous car.

Anyways, I live in SoCal so I'm trying to keep water usage to a minimum. This is my current "to-purchase" list that I'd like to buy soon;

ONR

iK Sprayer

Iron X

TRC Creature Edgeless 10pack

Mother's Tire Brush

ABN Wheel Woolies

Stoner's Reach Tool

Already have: Stoner's Invisible Glass, Costco multipack MF towels.

Will I still want to get a clay bar + wax for after washing, or is just washing every so often enough?

I recently started using this and it makes things very easy.

Sure!

Foam Applicator 1

Foam Applicator 2

Microfiber Applicator these also come in packs of two

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3500-Power-System-Tool/dp/B009OBVRY4

Turns your drill into a DA and comes with a pad. I've heard from two people that used it and really liked it.

This one works well and it's $20. Been using it for almost a year without fail. https://www.amazon.com/MATCC-Adjustable-Bottle-Lance-Connector/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496779024&sr=8-3&keywords=foam+cannon

Don’t spend a lot of money. I have the McKilans one another poster mentioned, and the MATCC one from Amazon. The MATCC actually works better in my opinion, at half the price.

MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon 1 Liter Bottle Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector Foam Blaster for Pressure Washer Gun

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_LMDXBbFVFARZF

I definitely don’t see a need for the more expensive ones.

Certainly!

The MTM PF22
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G4GPR5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jysJDbA8SKX01

Basic foam cannon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nzsJDb679VTVR

On Amazon, there are two :

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_5? This one w/o UV Protection

​

And one with:

https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_6?

​

Which one do you all prefer???

Any type of foaming ability included with a pressure washer will be crap. You need to buy an actual foam cannon such as this one to get the results you want. There are cheaper options than this one but I elect to stay with MTM.

I usually put 2 ounces of soap into the canister to get optimal foam.

Meguire's makes a DA attachment for a drill, https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3500-Action-Power-System/dp/B009OBVRY4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=meguires+da&qid=1569435857&sr=8-1
Would this be a bad alternative?

​

I have a corded TorQ DA so I do not want to shell out the $250 for the milwaukee.

Wash then clay then wax. I like to use a foam applicator pad like this.

A microfiber will work but you may end up absorbing more into the towel than actually applying it onto the car

Any idea how that compares to something like 303 Aerospace? That's my go to for any trim/vinyl.

is there any way to polish without the a polishing tool. If i had to I was about to get the Meguiar's G3500 in order to polish it.

EDIT: my dad said he did wet sand it. But what do you mean by compound, like clay?

I use an MTM hydro pro cannon with a sun joe SPX3001. Would recommend to anyone.

MTM Hydro Professional Adjustable Foam Cannon with Bayonet, 2600 PSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDSLVQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xUSdBbDACF0TX

This is what I use. It's a little pricy but it's worth every penny in my opinion.

http://www.amazon.com/303-Products-30350-Aerospace-Protectant/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396471973&sr=8-1&keywords=aerospace+303

I use this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DF0RB/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_rfa2tb1Z612BDVM4 . Maybe spraying some water on it and using a hair dryer would work? The APC might do the trick on it's own, you probably have some in your house like simple green.

Meguiars makes a drill attachment that is actually Dual Action. It uses gearing to convert single axis power into DA.

Meguiar's G3500 DA Power System Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OBVRY4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_OXdaBbE38GF39

https://youtu.be/Ev4XCdQS4Ss

Nah, theyre like $150 for a decent one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CPGMUXW

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDSLVQC

Can't go wrong w/ Wheel Woolies.

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Car-Wheel-Cleaning-3-Piece/dp/B00L3KDUD0/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2V8RMFR4P8ZN6&keywords=wheel+woolies&qid=1574197344&sprefix=wheel+wol%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-4

It's a single speed. That's not a good sign. For under $50, I'd rather you use something like this, assuming you already have a drill.

Oh I see, I thought you meant exterior stripping. I apologize. Here is the link for 303. I use the gallon and distribute in spray bottles but for personal use that spray bottle will last quite some time.

Maybe a steamer. I'm looking into buying this one

http://www.amazon.com/McCulloch-MC-1275-Heavy-Duty-Steam-Cleaner/dp/B0000DF0RB/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413769428&sr=8-3&keywords=steam+cleaner

I use this for the car interior (nooks and crannies + carpet), engine bay detail, kitchen cleaning / floor mopping and for our bathrooms (great for shining fixtures)

https://www.amazon.com/McCulloch-MC1275-Heavy-Duty-Steam-Cleaner/dp/B0000DF0RB/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471864200&sr=8-1&keywords=mcculloch+1275

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016-Smooth-Surface-Clay/dp/B00063X7KG


https://detailingconnect.com/products/griots-garage-bug-smudge-remover?variant=51995413191&utm_campaign=gs-2018-08-16&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg-utvoPo3QIVDLjACh0PHwIvEAQYAiABEgJCEPD_BwE


Do these products ( Griots big and smudge remover/ McGuire’s Quick detailer) remove Collonite 845 / powerlock

I picked up 2 packs of these and I've been used them for drying my car after GD method car-wash. How are they compared to the "Korean waffle weave towels"? Are they the same?

these are the pads

Also the pack came with two microfiber towels so I'll use those on windows then.

Two bucket wash with Meguiars Gold Class Soap, then a quick wax with Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax. Used Invisible Glass for all glass.