Best products from r/Autos

Keith Tanner of Flying Miata in the states has some good books about the cars.

Mazda Miata MX- 5 Performance Projects is a pretty good shop manual type thing that covers most needs.

Mazda MX-5 Miata: Find It. Fix It. Trick It. is a fairly decent overview with some simple tips.

Finally, How to Build a High-Performance Mazda-Miata is a good book if you are looking to add some performance to your car, but don't know all that much.

A lot of stuff like that is around the web, particularly miata.net, but sometimes it's nice to have a physical copy. Especially with that first book, there are a bunch of good pictures usually.

Have fun with that car. I have loved mine since I got it, through good times and the bad and I hope you do too.

Get one of these Japanese air fresheners and put it under either front seat. They last two to three months and everyone will mention how fresh your car smalls when they sit down. It's not an overwhelming specific scent, just a clean base almost like fresh laundry.

If you smoke, you can get a Giga Clip air freshener that clips to the vent and has an on/off slider. I use that for an extra blast of fresh if needed. Smells the same as the other one so you don't have crazy mixing smells going on, just fresh, non-fruity, non-feminine scent.

Of course, a bottle of Febreeze auto is a very good tool to have, especially for ents.

Spend $25 on these things and your car will smell exactly like a clean mans car should smell, not some bogus "new car" or anything. I take pride in how fresh my car smells, not to mention the lady loves it.

These two wrenches are my favorite: 12/14mm and 17/19mm. Tons of power for breaking tough bolts. Beautiful to look at.



My semi-deep socket set and long handle/flex head ratchet handle a lot of work, too.



Honorable mention go to manual impact driver, extra long needle nose pliers - straight and curved, Magnetic pickup tool, and trusty 1/2" dr. impact wrench


And what job can you do without a screwdriver? Using 'em all the time, good grips are more than welcome. This is my favorite screwdriver.


OOOh and PRYBARS. The biggest one in this set gets used a lot.

You've pretty much figured it out. In the photo you posted, you unplug the smaller cable on the bottom, the one with the white plug. Then you plug in an adaptor, the other end of the adaptor will have a male 3.5mm audio jack that you plug into your phone. It's pretty simple.

If you want the cheapest possible device, I found this one for $23. It also comes with a lightning connector for charging modern Apple devices, and if you don't need it you can simply tuck the cable behind the head unit and cover it up when you replace the panel. However, if you're playing from an Apple device, I'd recommend this one. For $38, you should be able to control the playback with the buttons on the car's head unit and steering wheel. With the cheaper one only the car volume buttons will work, this one should allow you to pause and skip tracks with the car buttons instead of doing it on the phone itself. Alternately, there is this $36 one which features an SD card slot and a USB socket so you can load song files onto an SD card or USB stick as well as use the AUX jack. You can use the car's buttons to control USB/SD playback, not sure if they will work with the AUX input. You can plug a cable into the USB port to charge your device, although if you want it to charge quickly a dedicated car charger that plugs into a 12V power outlet (cigarette lighter) like this is a better option.

There are also adaptors with more features like bluetooth connectivity and a microphone for handsfree calls, though these typically run north of $100.

I use the Itronics ITB-70G Black Box Dash Cam but it's far from perfect. Once the SD card starts to fill up, the camera has issues recording and will skip up to 5 minutes or so intervals of traveling. Normally when the SD card fills up, it will replace the oldest video and continue recording but this creates the aforementioned issue. I'm not sure if it's an issue with the SD card they supply or the device itself. Clearing the SD card before it fills up alleviates this issue, though. So if you don't mind clearing out the SD card every week or so, then the device isn't so bad.


Also, the software provided doesn't support Windows 7 64 bit operating system or Mac OS. The software is mainly used to change the settings of the camera (video quality, sound, etc.) and to see the GPS locations of the videos. You can still view the videos by viewing the contents of the SD card and opening them in video playing software (Windows Media Player, VLC).


Now for some of the good aspects to this device. It was very easy to install and the small form factor makes this device discrete and will not obstruct your view. I installed it towards the top of the windshield behind my rear view mirror and ran the wiring along the top then down the sides and hooked it up to the cigarette lighter. Once installed, you won't have to worry about touching the device to record. It will power up when you turn the car on/start the engine but it takes a couple of seconds to initially turn on (5-10 seconds). Once the car is turned off, the device turns off as well. I believe there is a low power consumption setting you can turn on so it will record even after you turn off the car. I have not tested this out myself since I don't want to risk a dead battery.


The video quality? Lets just say don't expect to recover license plate numbers, street names, road signs, etc. from the footage. It's just for evidence purposes to prove so and so did this. Here's a clip from an altercation I witness the other week. This is the raw clip uploaded to YouTube that I just trimmed using their video editor using the highest quality settings available on the camera. (I don't have a night time clip but here's a clip from a different YouTube user.) By default, the camera records in one minute intervals but I believe that can be adjusted in the software.


If you want the device to retain a certain recording, you can press a button on the device and it will save the clips from 3 minutes prior as well as 3 minutes afterwards (or however long you want it to be, this can be altered in the software) and they won't be overwritten. In the event of an accident, the device detects sudden acceleration or deceleration through its impact sensor and will retain the footage automatically. The sensitivity of the impact sensor can be adjusted in the software if need be.


Whoa, didn't expect this post to be this long. Anyways, I felt that this camera would meet your needs so I posted it but gave some extra information. So if you don't mind the SD card issue and the $200 price tag, go for it. If I wasn't clear with something in my review or you have any other question, feel free to ask.

It's not a cheap book but it takes you through the majority of aspects in automotive mechanics. It's college level and geared towards formal education and studying, but I find that even for personal interest it gives the reader/enthusiast a great starting foundation. If you can afford it and have the motivation to read it in its entirety, you will be in a much better position to make proper mechanical decisions if you start a project car in the near future.

I should also add that I own this book and am currently reading through it myself. It's tough at some points due to the nature of the content, but it's superior to the general knowledge and information you'll be presented with in most forums and shop talks.

Aero bars will be quieter than other shapes. You may want to think about locking them, which will cost you extra. Load capacity might be slightly higher for round or square bars than aero bars. It looks like the OEM bars for '14-'15 can easily be adjusted for your 2017. Bonus: they're available on amazon! https://www.amazon.com/SUBARU-2014-FORESTER-CROSSBAR-SET-AERO/dp/B00CHSTGKI

edit: rackattack is a good place to find what will fit. They carry the big names (Thule, Yakima, etc.). If you're looking for something you can use for years to come, I'd recommend the major brands. Fit, finish, and function will all be better.

Sorry for posting late, but definitely buy this http://www.amazon.com/How-Cars-Work-Tom-Newton/dp/0966862309/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346804838&sr=8-1&keywords=how+cars+work

I read this while taking Auto Tech through high school and it helped a ton.

There is also this website, although it uses some larger words and is a bit harder to understand right off the bat. http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/tech_index.html

Try, to concentrate on one system at a time afterwords (brakes, suspension, electronics, etc.) since it makes it more focused.

Good luck :)

I have a 1970 Nova that I've worked on quite a bit, although not as much as I would like. I bought it as a car to learn on, having about the same experience you do now. I've taken almost every single thing apart on that car, but sadly have not been able to rebuild much of it due to money issues and going back to grad school. Obviously I'm a bit biased, but I think you chose a good car to start with. I'll try and answer your questions:

1. As long as you're not mechanically retarded, you'll have no problem. All I had going into this was one auto shop class and a lot of enthusiasm. So far I've completely removed, disassembled, and rebuilt both the front and rear suspensions, removed/disassembled and half-rebuilt a small-block Chevy engine, rebuilt the steering system, gutted the interior, and taken almost every part off of the car at some point. I would say that with enough research and a willingness to learn, there isn't a single thing you can't do, and that includes rebuilding the transmission (although it might not be very fun). Suspension, engine removal/installation, exhaust, brakes, rear axle... most of it is very simple with plenty of instructions to be found online or in books, not to mention old-fashioned trial and error. Basically, you don't need to worry about difficulty as long as you are willing to learn.
   
   
2. I hate the interior. All of the major parts are rather uncomplicated, and even the dash is stone-age simple compared to modern cars, but its the brittle, old plastic pieces and papery upholstery that are a pain because they break so easily, and they are everywhere. If you buy replacement interior parts and simply replace the old with the new as you go, your mechanical inclination should translate rather easily. However, if you plan on restoring and reusing any of your stock interior, it will be much more difficult and time consuming. At the very least, in my opinion, the interior will not be easier than the rest of the car.
   
   
3. Pick up a Chiltons or a Hanes manual for the car. This is the one I bought, although I'm not sure if I bought it from that website. It will have most of what you need to know (like torque values and general dis/assembly procedures), and you can go to the interwebs for the specific things that it doesn't. If you want to rebuild the engine, I highly recommend anything buy a guy named David Vizard. This book is absolutely amazing, even if you're not on a budget. It will explain the theory and mechanical basis behind engine building, i.e., what parts you should buy for the type of use to which you will put your engine. This book gives you the step-by-step instruction on assembling it.
   
   
4. I can't even guesstimate this. It really depends on what you want out of this build. What are your plans? Daily driver? Weekend plaything? Racer?
   
   My Nova had rust issues in a few places, so watch for it when you buy yours: Rear quarter panels between the bumper and the wheel well (from the factory, this area on the inside came packed with foam that trapped any water that leaked into the trunk right up against the metal and rotted it); Front fenders right behind the wheel well (there's a hollow area inside that traps water); Front floorboards (just like any car... if you can't pull up the carpet to look, you can look up at the floor from underneath). Mine was a California car all its life, if you're buying from somewhere like the rust belt, you'll likely have similar or worse issues unless somebody has already fixed it. If they have fixed it, inspect these areas anyway for poor craftsmanship doing so.
   
   Before buying the car, look at the suspension bushings, or ask the seller about them. If they are original or replaced long ago, they'll likely be cracked and crumbling. This makes the car handle like absolute shit and the bump steer can be downright horrifying to deal with while driving (believe me...). So not only are they important, but they are among the most difficult part of the suspension to replace. If you plan on driving the car before tackling this job, make sure the bushings are in good shape.
   
   For parts, I've always gone to Summit for the general mechanical stuff. Great prices, great buying experience and great service, in my experience. For Nova-specific parts like body and interior pieces, my first stop is Classic Industries to find out what I need, then I cross-reference the part numbers I find there with other vendors to find the best price. Sometimes Classic is best, sometimes not, but they have everything, so it's my first stop when looking for a part.
   
   That's all I can think of for now. If you have any questions, let me know.
   
   Edit: Formatting.

A lot of people here are recommending Craftsman sets. I own a lot of Craftsman and like them. However, I've become a big fan of Kobalt, the Lowes brand. They're a little cheaper, still have a life-time warranty, and to my eye and use, are better quality. For example, are the metric sockets have blue bands, all the imperial have red. The ratchets are finer geared (72 point!). I adore every Kobalt tool I own. This set would be a great start. Other than that, just buy stuff as you go/need it. Admittedly it's annoying to have to stop working to go buy a tool, but it's better than wasting money. Finally, buy a good multimeter. I LOVE this one. I've bought about five of them just to have them around.

Honestly? Patience is the big one. Pretty much any problem you'll have you'll be able to google and find someone else who's tackled it before.

Even when you know what you're doing, almost nothing ever goes smoothly or 100% perfect the first attempt.

You'll need an engine stand, engine crane, jack, stands, and a socket set and basic screwdriver set minimum for engine pull. There's also belt/chain removal/install tools and other specialty stuff that you'll have to look into on a case by case basis. You don't necessarily need to know how to weld or fabricate. Excellent skills, but not required.

Your biggest danger will be dropping something heavy or working with the high pressure lines (eg Air Conditioning). Your biggest help will be buying one of those Hanes repair manuals for whatever car you end up getting and reading through it. Be able to pop the hood without refering to the book and be able to identify all the various parts: intake manifolds, fuel lines, A/C lines, what all of your liquid reserveroirs are for, if it's Carb, TBI, EFI or DFI, spark wires, steering column, engine mounts, etc etc. Knowing what things are and where they lead is a huge help. So when you run into the inevitable "This fucking thing is in the way/not working", you'll at least know what that fucking this is, and be half way there to (safely) remove/replace/fixing it. Also know what the various fluids involved look and smell like. Is it wiper fluid, coolant, engine oil, brake fluid, transmission fluid or power steering?

A cordless drill with a socket adapter kit like this can make things go A LOT faster, especially in disaessembly. Just do initial loosen/final tightening by hand (especially for stuff that needs a fairly specific torque spec), but using it to blow through the first 90% of the thread saves a lot of time.

diagrams here http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wiring/wiring1966.htm



You might consider an electrical assembly manual if you are trying to replicate fasteners and positioning.
http://www.amazon.com/1966-MUSTANG-Electrical-Assembly-Manual/dp/B004M3M52C

This is also a good site for minutiae http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=vft724rojqbkber0dn1gvq3qt1&board=2.0


You can buy hard copies and fasteners of all this at places like cjponyparts.com or npdlink.com for a few bucks (my fav suppliers) .

I've restored a few 65/66 Mustangs taking them from shells to show cars. I daily drove a fully loaded one for 13 years at ~18K miles a year, which is quite a feat. I could pull my C4, rebuild it 100% and re-install in under 8 hours. The p/s would have to be rebuilt every 6 months, the C4 every 18 months and the suspension every 24 months. And it was a joy when the a/c worked liked it was supposed to (I'm mvac certified)! My garage was full of parts...

Looks like you have a Caspian Blue coupe...in Texas?

This is a good beginner book for working on aircooled VWs. Maintenance is pretty straight forward; the most important thing is changing the oil and adjusting the valves every 3,000 miles, both of which are easy to do and cost relatively nothing. Also make sure all of your engine tin is there. Ghias aren't cheap and finding a dry convertible is getting more and more difficult to do. Good luck, that should be a fun project!

If you're looking for a fun, interesting read check out Go Like Hell. I just read it and it was a great read. If you're at all interested in cars and racing it's worth your time.

I have a seething pet peve for yellowed headlights; use this headlight kit and follow up with this coating

I would apologize for unsolicited advice but I'm a little tipsy and tired and I love the subies, especially that blue on the Impreza. Idk which one you got first but they're both baller.

Clean headlights would be even more baller and it's surprising how much it de-ages a car

for someone using a drill. I personally think the 3M kit is the best.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412942109&sr=8-1&keywords=headlight+restoration+kit