(Part 2) Best products from r/CR10

It honestly depends on your budget, how much are you willing to spend?

Here is a great list of prep and upgrades you can do to bring success to your prints:

-Get Vibration Dampners: I can not express how much joy these things have brought many users. The make your machine quiet and greatly decrease ringing in your prints since they ABSORB the vibration coming from your stepper motors. You really only need Two of these for the X and Y axis however you can get another two for the Z-axis drives if you plan on doing a lot of z-hopping.

-BUY FILAMENT IN ADVANCE: get some PLA/ABS/PETG or whatever you want to try printing with. The filament you get with the printer for the most part is garbage HOWEVER I recommend dialing in those settings first then throwing on some nice filament, it'll feel soooo nice. Some commonly accepted/appreciated brands are: eSun PLA+, Hatchbox, Solutech and more

-Get a PEI sheet: Seems like you mentioned this in your post but PEI sheets eliminate the use of gluesticks/tape/hairspray and provide excelent adhesion while making it easy to remove the part after it's cool. This things like to be hot though so increase your bed temp a little at first

-Buy New Fans: The stock hotend/power unit fans are Loud, Noisy and Inefficient. I recommend getting 1 new conrol box fan, 1 new hot end fan and 1 new part blower fan.
You will need 1 40mm fan, 1 50mm fan and a Blower fan or another 40/50mm fan depending on if you print a new hot end mount like a fang.

-Tighten every screw on the printer: You would be surprised how many screws initially are lose either from prior testing or such. Also make sure to test your belt tensions on your printer whne you get it. You want everything tight BUT NOT TOO TIGHT. Give it a snug fit then let it be. Also make sure your belts are 'pluckable' like a guitar string but not tought

-Get some bearings: You may want to get a few ball bearings for when you print out a new filament holder, the stock filament holder is terrible

-Buy some fasteners: M3 bolts and nuts are commonly used on the CR-10S having spares or additional fasteners for adding on parts/printed components to your printer is awesome to have on hand

-Replace the Hotend: This can get a bit frustrating but it can be worth it. If you want you can replace the hotend with something like a volcano or an all metal hot end to print at higher temperatures. With this you can also add on autoleveling if you have the correct mount printed

-Octoprint: I am not very familiar with octoprint since I don't use it myself however I know it can run on a CR-10S. If you want look into how to install octoprint on stock firmware, I know it's pretty easy to use a raspberrypi to remote into your printer as well using octoprint.

-Squash Feet: Replacing your stock machine 'feet' with squash balls or squishy gold balls can also help absorb vibrations from your machine to your table or where it is located. This helps a bit with part quality but it's mostly to reduce the noise carried through your furniture.

-Solder on connectors: If you want you can get some pin connectors to make your fans/electronics easy to switch out depending on your material you are printing, maybe you need a strong part fan or maybe you need a weaker one. It is easy to swap out if it's using a 4pin connector.

-Make an Enclosure: What could be nicer for your printer than a stable environment. Making an enclosure for your printer can help if you live in a rough climate area or if you want to reduce the noise as well.

-Get some Handtools: I'm not sure if you have any or not but some great tools to have are a screwdriver, hexwrenches and a soldering iron depending on how much work you want to be doing on your printer.

For convenience I've added some of the parts mentioned via an Amazon link for prices. I'm not saying buy these things exactly they are just a starting point for reference:

Nima Vibration Dampners:https://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Rubber-Vibration-Dampers-Printer/dp/B073FRZTDX/

40mm Fan (Noctua Brand): https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A4x20-FLX-premium-quality-quiet/dp/B072JK9GX6/

Blower Fan (Part Fans):https://www.amazon.com/SoundOriginal-Humidifier-Aromatherapy-Appliances-Replacement/dp/B071WMHNG5/

PEI Sheet/Printer Surface:https://www.amazon.com/CCTREE-Printer-Surface-Creality-300x300mm/dp/B07543KHCT/

Squash Feet: https://www.amazon.com/PrideSports-Practice-Balls-Count-Yellow/dp/B00466W9X0/

M3 Bolts/Nuts:https://www.amazon.com/280Pcs-Grade12-9-Socket-Assortment-Storage/dp/B0742DDLQ1/

Raspberry Pi 3 for Octoprint: https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASPBERRYPI3-MODB-1GB-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92/

Ball Bearings: https://www.amazon.com/625ZZ-Shielded-Groove-Precision-Bearings/dp/B01LWMT95S/

Hope this helps, have fun tinkering!

He has a stock fan version, I think, but you'll do much better with a 5015 fan he talks about in the Description and Comments.

He posted a link but it's broken, so here's the proper link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9ZMRUR

He also talks about using a capacitor across the leads to fix a problem with getting the full speed range, as well as eliminating a whine.

I used a 20ufd 16v. I soldered the wires (going to the control box) to it's legs right against the cap body (QUICKLY, don't overheat the cap!!). Be sure to get polarity right, minus to black; plus to red.

The legs of the cap plugged straight into the JST connector on the fan, then I used heat shrink tubing to hold it all together. Fits fine inside the black mesh cable sleeve, can't see it. (I did smooth the sharp edges of the white JST plug with some nippers)

He also says there's a 40mm Axial fan version, which I was going to use, but accidentally printed the 5015 version, LOL.

Since I had one from another printer / Fang adventure, I used that instead, and it's amazing how good it is.

Speed is now from 15% - 100%. On my old one it was only 85% - 100%!!

Later!

PP

Assuming it's pla I've always used 60c for the bed but if I'm printing a smaller object I typically use a raft. Also make sure the glass it clean then use glue stick or something to help hold it down. Personally I use this replacement glass that is textured with no adhesive and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H33B71M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_E4s4DbXJFYVYY
Do make sure your nozzle is also at the right height for putting enough plastic down to stick good as well.

Im a pro owner as well, and have also been on the improvement quest.

here a re a few Nexi youtube vids of upgrades he has done on his pro. as well i listed a few things i did to mine below.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VH3zrRNOGfA&t=186s this one is how to change the capacitive sensor to inductive.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hG8X26UtLVw this one shows ytou how to install T8 anti backlash nuts. (Great if you suffer from constant Z leveling.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lde-SSY4vtw&t=638s Quiet your printer down with high quality fan replacements i went with these https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

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https://youtu.be/DI31OItLQ9w there is also this 37 min review from NJ Tech where he goes over various upgrades and mods to his Pro, i found this video very relatable and a decent watch. though i do like Nexi's idea of voltage splitting to run the fans instead of voltage step downs. also prefer the MB cooler bracket from NJ's video over Nexi's.

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in addition to this stuff above in these videos(I have done most of these mods now), for me im running the TM firmware, with an Octoprint to control it, Wham Bam build plate on the way.

also have a permanent screen SD adapter installed with a cable that runs outside the case for easier repeat flashes. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JMTW1YD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I would also recommend a right angle USB cable to connect to Octo as i dont care for the stock cable that hangs way off the side of the printer just dying to get knocked off or broken.. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004NO0L4O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Hope this stuff helps you out!

Cheers.

I am planning on adding an LED strip also. I don't have my CR-10 yet, but I have other printers that I have added LED's on. From what I can tell, there is no 12v pins available on the CR-10 board. So you would have to either tap into the power supply or plug it in separately. I saw someone else tapped into the 12v line for the fan that cools the heat break but I don't think that's a very good idea.

You can buy a strip that includes a power supply and a remote control for $17 on Amazon.

If you go with something like this, you need to cut the strip to fit on the CR-10. Then you will need to solder 4 wires to the end of the strip where you cut, and connect them to the control box. Then that plugs into the LED strip and you can turn it on and off with the remote. There are better strips out there than the one above, because those LED's are spaced a little further apart. Here is another but it's more expensive.

For those asking about a new hot end I would suggest E3D over Microswiss as someone whose had both. I got the microswiss first because I liked the idea of not having to print a mount for it or rewire. I regret that decision because I constantly had issues with clogs. The good part about e3d is there are tons of mounts for it. When you do rewire remember to use some JST Connectors so you can replace stuff at will.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M5AHF0Z?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

If you don’t like soldering pick up some of these while you’re at it:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DPS8DPM?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

With these it makes splicing in the jst connectors super simple and done in 30 minutes :)

Duuuude... good luck! Even if it fails, don't give up. You can slice the remaining that needs printing off the file and print only that, glue it up and never know the diff.

For what it's worth, I rarely have that problem after I switched to this CCTree Build Sheet. Clean in-between each print with a little 70% isopropyl and boy, do supports and prints stick well.

They're called brass crimp rings. Something like these: https://www.amazon.com/Mandala-Crafts-Findings-Variety-Crafting/dp/B07CH2SGSL/ref=sr_1_10_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536935796&sr=8-10-spons&keywords=brass+crimp+ring&psc=1

But I've just used 2x ZIP ties to secure them. Works great!

I had issues with both the circulation fans in my Control boxmaking noise so i replace all of my fans. My psu was new so it was quiet to begin with.
Here are the fans i got. The noctua are higher than your range but they are high quality.

Hotend Fan 40x10mm

Control Box Back Fan 40x20mm

Mother Board Fan 50x10mm

Might be able to find these fans cheaper on other websites but they are the right sizes.

Can you show that please?

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This is what I see:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71T6c67PviL._SL1000_.jpg

You can buy it here: https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Motherboard-Mainboard-Creality-3D/dp/B079H3T983/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1540464996&sr=1-1&keywords=Upgraded-Motherboard-Mainboard-Creality-3D

This is also from the Creality site:

https://ueeshop.ly200-cdn.com/u_file/UPAG/UPAG282/1806/photo/7f0390347e.png

https://www.creality3donline.com/creality-upgrades-cr-10s-s4-s5-v21-replacement-mainboard-motherboard-for-cr-10-5s-printer_p0072.html

I hope you like your CROW this morning... ;\^)

I still don't get why you would even begin to accuse me of miss information?

>!I dont know how you would react if I was say give then opinion that x was better than y, because it's my value and opinion. !<

C'mon, put it to rest, I gave an opinion and provided options, is that not what this community is about? Where is the ill intent on my side?

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You need to go very slow with the stock hot end and a .8 mm nozzle. It's just too much plastic for the stock hot end to melt. Though I haven't tried it on the stock hot end, I would think that you can't go faster than 1,500 mm - 2,000 mm per minute.

If you want to print faster I would try a volcano style hot end. I've been using this cheap e3d knockoff with the volcano style heater block for a few weeks now and getting good results.

BTW Even with that hot end I still can crank out prints almost as fast and nicer quality on the .6 mm nozzle based on the fact that I can just run the .6 mm nozzle faster. It seem to me that the melt zone can only handle a given volume of filament in a given time. You can run a .8 mm nozzle at ~2,750 mm per minute or a .6 mm nozzle at 3,750 mm per minute. The end result is that the print takes roughly the same amount of time and looks better on the .6 mm nozzle.

I still use the .8 mm nozzle on vase mode prints. The extra wall thickness makes very nice ridged single wall objects.

This is what I used:

• Hot End Cooling Fan
  
  
• Control Box Exhaust Fan
  
  
• Control Box Motherboard Fan
  
  
• Power Supply Fan
  
  I did not change out my part cooling fan, but that's up next on my list to do. The stock one is not very loud anyways, so I'm in no rush.
  
  Be careful if you do the Power Supply fan. It's plug and play since the PSU already uses a JST plug, just be sure that you're completely unplugged, grounded, and don't go poking at components in there in case a capacitor has retained charge or something.
  
  I watched this video to get a general idea of what to expect before diving in and replacing things. This guy goes through the extra steps of installing JST plugs for all the fans, whereas I personally just direct-soldered mine. Up to you on which approach you take.

These are the ones I used. I have a CR-10 Mini and they fit inside the grooves perfectly, with just a tiny bit of clearance.

If its really stuck go to an automotive store around you and see if you can find a battery terminal puller.
https://www.amazon.com/Suuonee-Battery-Terminal-Removal-Bearing/dp/B07VD5LTMW?ref_=Oct_UPriceC_15708861_4&pf_rd_r=KS7ZV0PGTB1V3DB1TSJJ&pf_rd_p=a0e5ebfc-c454-58f3-ade7-e3394b7c5963&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=15708861&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

They work great for stuff just like this.

This is awesome! If you've got the STL for it, it'd be great! I'm currently using one of these https://www.amazon.com/Buyers-Point-Through-Theater-Systems/dp/B01C7S76T0, but it's not the tidiest of set ups.

Ill try my best to explain it in english.

The way the Coupler grabs on the tube is by using a ring with tiny metal teeths. Each retraction puts stress on these teeths and can grind away material from the teeths and from the tube.

If you use a improved Bowdentube like capricorns in my experince there is less material for teeth to grap on so it gets loose more often.

Since the couplers are simple 0185 pressured air couplers i think you can simply others from Amazon etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Pneumatic-Fitting-Connect-Straight-Extruder/dp/B07Q9Q9JDP/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=ptfe+coupler&qid=1570983811&sr=8-10

Only if you change them look out for pieces of the teeth not getting into your hot end... gave me a funny time to find that out.

You want to update Marlin

You are going to run into problems

This makes life easier

This fan mod is really really good

There are dozens of variations of these knobs

The stock bed surface can be easily upgraded

These are actually flat

In place of it. Really strong adherence to the surface too, without much heat needed for the bed. I did find I had to tighten the bed a bit more, since there's a bit of give to the surface vs glass.

This is the kind I bought - PEI Sheet from Gizmo Dorks

does this fan work well to replace the fan on the heat-sink on the hot end?

https://www.amazon.com/Noiseblocker-NB-BlackSilentFan-40x40x10mm-Silent-3800RPM/dp/B00ZB7TD4G

When I was asking about this for the ender 3 /u/robbob2112b gave a very detailed breakdown on what they had done.


> These are what I use on the tevo and when I put the e3dv6 on the ender I'll use them there too....

>I started them about 6 inches back up the wires from the hot end spaced them out so them aren't one big blob.... used different ones for different things so they can't be switched out and if for some reason a wire pulls loose it doesnt short anything... doing it I can swap out the hot end in minutes, do a PID tune and I'm off to the races.


>Connectors and max current rating

>Jst-sm for the fans and thermistor - 3amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTKD7P4/

>Mini Tamiya type b for the heater - 10 amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSD9JJQ/

>Jst-xhp are the white connector for stepper motors - 3 amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTH46S7/

>Dupont for the black on the main board - 3 amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVYPDGS/

>These for heated bed - up to 30 amps - solder only, not crimp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H54LZN2/

>Crimpers - get the right ones for the pin type in the connectors you buy, you can't use just any old crimper or wing it with these tiny pins and get a good connection that doesn't come apart when things move for hours

>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1RFZZ4/
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGLKBSK/
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMM4YUY/


>Since I'm on the subject heated bed wires - large enough to carry the current and with the silicone cover and fine internal strands flexible enough to not break with movement

>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9IXL5Q/r

yes

https://www.amazon.com/CCTREE-Printer-Heater-Silicone-Creality/dp/B07CN7KH31/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542954202&sr=8-3&keywords=cr-10+silicone+sock

I would recommend starting out by getting a silicone sock to put over the heater block: https://www.amazon.com/CCTREE-Printer-Heater-Silicone-Creality/dp/B07CN7KH31/

Why the two fans though? Never really understood this. I’m running one 5015 and it seems like more than enough.

There are 3 fans in the control unit. A 40x20mm exhaust fan that's always on max (this is the loudest one), a 50x10mm fan that I think just circulates internally (it points at the control board), and another one sealed in the power supply (I've not opened it up yet). The power supply fan only turns on if the power supply heats up. You might have noticed it spinning up during prints when your bed is heated. If it doesn't turn on when you start your unit (as explained by /u/ZEnterprises), that doesn't mean that it's broken; just that the temperature limit hasn't been hit yet.

I've got a 40mm Noctua fan and this 50mm getting delivered from Amazon tonight. I'm also going to take metal snips to the back of the control unit's enclosure where the 40mm exhausts and then cover the hole with one of these. I'm hopeful that the quieter fans will stop the control unit from constantly sounding like a hive of angry bees. I'll take some pics tonight and make a post.

I did a .8 nozzle on my cr10sPro and was very disappointed in the speed it could achieve. Something like 15-20mm/s max print speed. Any faster and the stock hotend couldnt melt pla fast enough, the extruder was skipping and the prints were under extruded. You can get a whole knock off volcano setup for $15. If you want long something like that long term I would go name brand e3d.


https://www.amazon.com/Wangdd22-Printer-Filament-Extruder-Volcano/dp/B01ESTJUL8

The easiest fix here is going to be re-wiring the stepper motors. Since you probably don't have the crimping tools needed for the connectors, you can simply cut the wires between the stepper motor and the board, strip the insulation, and reverse the order. I highly recommend soldering and heat-shrinking the soldered connections. If you don't feel comfortable doing that, there are heat shrinks that have solder in the middle that will do both. (Example: https://www.amazon.com/Sopoby-Connectors-Electrical-Waterproof-Automotive/dp/B01DPS8DPM) You just need a heat gun. Those are not that expensive.

An alternative is flashing a new firmware on your CR-10S Pro that reverses the direction of the motors in the software.

You may not want to go with the cheapest as some boards had inferior components which lead to temperature fluctuations.

This one appears to have upgraded components.