(Part 2) Best products from r/Chromecast

Can you clarify - are you using this modem/router - Netgear N300 ?

That's reporting it only does 2.4Ghz A/B/G/N

Your Xbox One and Chromecast both support 5Ghz which is far better and definitely going to have less interference in your area.

The reason I ask is my Chromecast v2 with 2.4Ghz will buffer at 480p as well due mostly because there's 300 other 2.4Ghz wireless signals.

Honestly, I would recommend getting yourself a separate modem/router like this SB6141 and then a nice 2.4/5ghz dual-band router like this R7000 and you'll be seriously set. On the cheaper side, you could get the E2500 which is also dual-band and can run Tomato firmware.

5ghz will greatly increase the quality of your wireless.

This was a issue for me. I wanted something to use on my deck and yard. I just used a first gen solar Eton Ruckus. Plug in a Chromecast audio into its USB charge port and aux port. I needed a noise filter because of a ground loop. This is the one I used, it's about the size of the packets of Lifesavers candy. My ruckus has a pocket, for lack of better term, that holds everything.

http://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2

Sugru or Velcro can also attach it to your speaker. The other thing I had was a short micro USB cable to power it. It's definitely less than elegant but it's functional.

Edit: I actually recommend against getting the built-in Chromecast speakers. I'll tell you why, I was into airplay speakers the manufacturers never update them. Some of my earlier airplay speakers barely work with the new operating system. Luckily they do work well still with airfoil and android airplay apps like allstream and AirAudio. If Google actually makes it's own; I would buy one. Or somebody makes one that you can dock a Chromecast audio I'd buy that.

Edit: fixed text (used dictation)

Just copied from other post. I was a little vague with just putting shield in the OP. /r/AndroidTV/ is a pretty good sub for discussion around it.

nVidia Shield TV is a streaming box and a video games console. It runs AndroidTV and is probably the best performing consumer streaming option on the market. It is a bit pricier but performs really well and the AndroidTB ecosystem is improving all the time.

As many have set get a travel router. If you are confident in configuring a more advanced router on the fly...

I use a RB962 ap as my travel router. https://www.amazon.com/MikroTik-RouterBoard-Triple-802-11ac-RB962UiGS-5HacT2HnT-US/dp/B01BMMK4HI/ref=sr_1_1/146-9760768-1114760

I usually pop one radio on the best wifi signal, nat and broadcast my own SSID for my devices. IF the room gives ethernet, I then use that over one radio on wifi. If it is complete crap I "charge" my phone off of it and use usb tethered data for things. Bonus, some places I go work at I have to test some optic, this lets me use fiber too...

Hey!
I'm using this thing
Works fine for me and I'm guessing you can get it shipped to Poland or it might redirect you to the same item on Amazon.pl
Good luck!

PS you'll also need a 1/8th inch jack to cinch cable, which looks like [this] ( http://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B000VFEMI0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417912911&sr=8-1)

Alternatively if you have passive speakers and want a great low cost solution, these Class T amps are fantastic:

Lepy (Lepai) LP-2020A 2020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier

So my main motivation was that I was shopping around for some stands for my pair of sonos ones, and I found all the decent stands cost 100-200 dollars. On top of that the alexa support on the sonos ones was terrible and the microphones were just kind of crappy too. I realized that instead of blowing money on stands I could probably just sell my two sonos ones and get a pair of floor standing speakers and an amp instead (since I already own a sonos CONNECT and a Sonos Play:5).

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I ended up getting pair of Pioneer SP-FS52 Andrew Jones speakers along with a pretty nice SMSL amp. I had the CC Audio routed into my connect and the connected routed into the SMSL amp. I kinda started to think, why do I even have all this invested in the sonos ecosystem when I just want Google Assistant and a good wireless audio system. I remembered that Chromecast audio recently got multi-room so I figure I could replace the sonos gear in my kitchen with something based on the chromecast audio and come out ahead.

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Anyways, I found a Chromecast Audio on newegg and ordered that. Wish I'd bought several of them on sale a couple months ago. I already had one that I bought a while ago, Very underrated product.

I think you may be in luck op. I wanted to use my chromecast with wireless headphones as not to disturb the house when I watch tv late at night so I got a hdmi audio extractor. Interestingly when I tried it out, not only was I able to pipe audio out separately but the tv also still had the audio at the same time. I've been able to cast pocket casts to the headphones without even turning the tv on which is really handy. Hope this solves your needs!

i like this thing better. don't have to worry about what applications support casting.

I would highly recommend the Micca bookshelf speakers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009IUIV4A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483218684&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bookshelf+speakers&dpPl=1&dpID=515pxM5mGPL&ref=plSrch

Or the Dayton Audio bookshelf speakers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002RMPHMU/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1483218684&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bookshelf+speakers&dpPl=1&dpID=41h2GNNeZmL&ref=plSrch

With a small amp

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483218848&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=turntable+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41phZQk-zFL&ref=plSrch

I have used all of them with my Chromecast Audio. They sound great.

Okay, here is possibly a solution -

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Get the Chromecast dongle -

https://store.google.com/us/product/ethernet_adapter_for_chromecast?hl=en-US

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Next get one of the pocket WiFi routers, put it in client mode, with DHCP server

enabled in a different IP address subnet for the LAN port. You may also add the WAN

port to the local LAN (that way you can connect two devices)-

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https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-MT300N-V2-Repeater-Performance-Compatible/dp/B073TSK26W/

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Connect your laptop over wired connection to the pocket router, and put it in client mode and connect to your WiFi, accept the terms and conditions, and get it going. It should then serve as a WiFi to Wired internet provider. At this point, disconnect your laptop from the router and connect it to the chromecast dongle.

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This should work in almost all cases, particularly if the web-page terms has to be accepted every time a WiFi network connection is established. I use this technique to connect wired devices in Starbucks kind of locations.

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Your best option is to plug directly into your receiver if it has an HDMI port. If it does but they are full, you can get an external switch to change sources, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XUQU/. If neither of those options work, an audio extractor is your next option, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/. This will still output HDMI video, but also send the digital audio out an optical port so you still get surround sound, though you will probably get a few milliseconds of lag, probably nothing too noticeable. In the magical event you don't even have optical, it still has stereo outputs which, for music, will be just fine.

Yikes! That adapter is almost as much as a Chromecast audio. I have one of these and it works great for <$8


Edit: Chromecast audio is on sale for $25 on the play store (I'm in U.S.) until tomorrow so less than the adapter you posted

Correct adapter: here

Another option is using this method with something like this. It's how I use my chromecast on my school's network. It's also a little cheaper than your option.

If you are on a mac there is a built in option to share internet right in the Sharing section of System Preferences.

It would be nice to have one for a raspberry pi zero, too. You could probably run POE to a Pi 3b with POE hat and pass through network from it's full usb port to the Chromecast.

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https://www.amazon.com/Airtame-PoE-Adapter-Output-Input/dp/B07RKW43MN Found this, but it's pricey.

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A relevant project on hackaday.io https://hackaday.io/project/164730-poe-to-micro-usb-with-ethernet

I really hope this comes to fruition.

not sure how much power the CCaudio pumps out, but I've got these on a 50W x2 speaker amp and they sound amazing

speakers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009IUIV4A

amplifier: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0H8TOC

I have the later model TL-MR3040 and use its "WISP"-mode for this all the time. Another bonus is that you only need WiFi-access for 1 device and can actually use as much devices as you like.

If you just need to cast audio to a stereo, it is fine. you will need to use something like this to extract the audio.

At this price point, you may consider a bluetooth to audio dongle or a Chromecast audio, depending of your needs. To me the ability to make a multi-room system with the chromecast audio is essential.

I used the following guide for my setup.

https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/chromecast/xo_NDh5CZA8;context-place=topicsearchin/chromecast/category$3Achrome-os

The ethernet adapter I got was the Linksys USB3GIG. It is nice that the USB3GIG supports 1000Gb and has USB3.0 to take full advantage of the bandwidth in theory.

My setup cost me $29, but it can be done for $20.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXAC1ZW

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C

Edit: I changed the amazon links since I didn't realize amazon shorten links are referral links.

I actually have this exact one and it works great: http://www.amazon.com/Switch-switch-sources-Adapter-included/dp/B001VNHPPS/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1376227021&sr=8-11&keywords=hdmi+switch

We have this one

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VNHPPS/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works great. Ours works without the external power supply, and it auto-switches to whichever input is live.

I have 2 HDMI ports on my TV and bought an HDMI Switch, it works great.

I haven't tried it but what if you use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Extractor-Splitter-Converter/dp/B07H94D77V/ref=pd_sbs_23_t_0/144-5444921-2325455?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07H94D77V&pd_rd_r=902ed8e7-fc83-4fd9-a571-45cf1f2f7bc9&pd_rd_w=hJI8M&pd_rd_wg=V0FyX&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=YKADZBMQABMM1VBSJZBG&psc=1&refRID=YKADZBMQABMM1VBSJZBG

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Use a chromecast (the normal hdmi one) and adapt it to this for 3.5mm out ?

N4 also needs a split OTG cable that provides power as well as a USB connection.

Probably something like this. I bought this exact one for using a controller with it and I can't remember if I ever got it working.

Not that I know of...without an audio extractor or similar.

https://www.amazon.com/iArkPower-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Supports/dp/B01I9JG70A

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I could be wrong, I am sure someone will speak up if there is a better solution.

That might not work. First of all, its the male HDMI end instead of the female HDMI end. Second of all, it may not be HDCP compatible, so the Chromecast might not be compatible with it. Try looking around an amazon for something like this and get an HDMI to DVI cable to connect to your projector. Finally, some versions of DVI carry audio. I don't remember which and it probably wouldn't work through an HDMI adapter cable anyways, so better off the use the 3.5mm coming out of the linked device.

Solution here, posted on this subreddit about a month ago. Cost is about $10.

BTW, you could have found that thread if you did a search on this subreddit for the word "Audio." Came up fairly far up in the results list, and was obviously what you were looking for based on the subject title.

I ordered one from Amazon, received it, and it works 100%. Easy peasy.

This is by far the easiest route IMO
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Wireless-Adapter-Wizard/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376533248&sr=8-2&keywords=wireless+adapter

HDMI splitter + HDMI to 3.5mm would be cheaper.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F8WFEZQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687462&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00FHHQW4E&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0XR5QPWZHMVSG6QG5XTX

The reviews have interestingly variable results with Chromecast, I wonder if some people are trying to use it unpowered.

just buy a hdmi splitter.

http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376961070&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+switch

i just bought this one and its kinda shitty ir doesnt work but the switch works. There are much better ones available

Really, the Chromecast app is the simplest way, otherwise a cheap bluetooth reciever like this.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Bluetooth-4-0-Audio-Receiver/dp/B00I59VBH4

You need to extract the audio from the HDMI connection. Something like this works well:
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00G9FDJNA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462549127&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor+3.5mm

Just get this guy or something similar.

This I think is the one in the picture
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G9FDJNA?psc=1

Ended up ordering one of these, a few hours ago.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00F8WFEZQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Majority of the comments are for people using it in the capacity I require.

I use this J-Tech adapter. If you have a reasonable power adapter for your chromecast, it doesn't require its own power supply for audio-only applications.

There are other adapters but since I was still using HDMI in my setup, I needed the J-Tech gear originally.

I had a similar issue when connecting my Nintendo Switch to my PC monitor where there was an odd static/buzzing noise. I used a ground loop isolator which fixed it. You may also try using the Line-In audio port of your PC if it has one as well and see if that fixes anything.