Best products from r/Dirtbikes

We use the Baofeng BF-F9 V2+ with Nagoya 701c antenna and QHM22 waterproof speaker/mic.

While inexpensive, these are full fledged HAM radio transceivers, not toys. You can't just take them out of the box and turn them on like walkie-talkies you buy at Walmart. They have to be properly programmed to talk to each other on the right frequency, including any tone coded squelch you wish to use.

Not that I'm a HAM radio expert or anything, but you do have to kind of know what you are doing to use these. They are capable of transmitting on frequencies you absolutely should not be using, like police, fire, ems, s&r, government, commercial, etc. It's also worth noting that unless you have an FCC license, you can't actually use these radios legally. However if you are just using them for occasionally dirt bike chit chat, using them responsibly, on the correct frequencies, and not pissing off other users, the chances of being caught are basically zero.

Bottom line is that these cheap Chinese HAM radios work great for dirt biking I have had great success, they have much better range and performance than cheap 'bubble-pack' FRS radios. But they do take a little research and effort to learn how to use them.

It would help if you could identify the specific joints that are the noisiest. It's likely a combination of your rear shock, your swingarm's connection to the frame, and the subframe joints. Sometimes you can't do much with older bikes short of replacing the parts, but cleaning and greasing it should help you.

WD40 is simply a water displacement. It doesn't grease anything, it just helps remove the water, and it's especially helpful if youre trying to unscrew or pull out something and it's stuck, as it will temporarily lubricate what you spray it on.

If you want to get rid of squeaks in the joints, either get some spray lubricant(like a silicone based one, something like this) or you can tear the bike down and apply grease(just get a tub of it and it'll last you years, something like this) to a lot of the moving parts. The rear shock is something you definitely don't wanna be taking apart unless you know what you're doing, so try just putting grease on the outsides of the joints or getting spray lubricant and spraying it in the joints.

I recommend the grease method, as the silicone spray often doesn't do a long term job and it isn't nearly as water proofing. Try to find some videos of how to take apart dirt bikes, and apply those concepts to your bike. Every bike is different, but if you watch some klx 125 teardown videos, you'll catch on. Pretty much you can take off everything except the rear shock/swingarm and still be able to put it back on easily.

Nice, the track packs come with a bunch of different, correctly sized hardware that's handy to have around. The sealer isn't really OK, there isn't supposed to be any sealer used anywhere on that motor, especially not the head. Drain the coolant and pop the head off and see what it looks like under there. A top end job on that motor is pretty easy and cheap. Here is a top end kit that includes just the top end gaskets. It's under $150. The Cometic kit that megusta linked includes ALL the gaskets for the motor, which may or may not be necessary depending on if oyu need to do the bottom end as well.

If you only have one bike to transport, another option is to get any vehicle that fits your budget but make sure it has a trailer hitch attachment point!

Step two, get a motorcycle rack hitch! They’re like $50-$100 (I got mine used on Craigslist) and they can pretty much make any car with a hitch a dirt bike transport, just need some straps.

I only got a truck fairly recently so between my teenage years stuffing my TTR into my mom’s van and then using a trailer hitch attachment with my beater car before my Tacoma, I figured out ways to make it work!

Here’s the hitch I’m talking about
motorcycle trailer hitch

Dango Designs Gripper Mount
I’ve seen a lot of youtubers promote these and they actually are really good! I made a short vid with my hero7 on YouTube that shows off the camera angle here . I love it!

There is also the Pro Shot
People also really swear by these. The reason the dango is cool is that it clips onto your mouthpiece so there’s no Velcro or anything once you remove it.

It uses two types of oil. One you mix directly with the gasoline to lubricate your cylinder( like a weed eater or chainsaw). And the other type is transmission oil, like a car and exactly like your CBR600 you put it in your transmission and you have a small oil filter as well.



When I had a YZ250 I would run "Rotella-T 15W-40 (non-synthetic)" in my transmission, and I would use "Lucas Oil Semi-Synthetic 2-Cycle Engine Oil" in my gasoline and I mixed it 38:1 sometimes 40:1.



edit: keep in mind that as a new two-stroke rider you really need to make sure you're mixing the oil in your gasoline correctly. I would go pick up a Two-stroke measuring cup and a nice 5gallon(18.9L) Gas can that won't spill while mixing.


http://www.amazon.com/Ratio-Premix-Mixing-2-Stroke-Measuring/dp/B0088PR5BQ


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AVQCCCW/ref=s9_simh_hm_b13uKb_d0_g263_i1

GoPro HERO 7 Silver is $229 on amazon right now. $70 off & $170 less than the GP7 Black seems like a great deal if you don't want to or can't do $400 for the others.

https://www.amazon.com/GoPro-HERO7-Silver-Waterproof-Digital/dp/B07GDGZCCJ

As others have said, replace the copper washer and see if that helps. I would not recommend going to a bigger size; the drain bolt area on CRF crankcases isn't giant, and going much bigger to an M10 will be pushing it.

Instead, get a helicoil repair kit, a new washer, and a new bolt.

Copper washer part # 90474-333-000
Drain bolt part # 96300-08025-00 (for 04-09, later years are different)
Cheap repair kit, but probably overkill for a single hole, and I'm not sure of the thread type of the drain bolt: https://www.amazon.com/Tek-Motion-Stripped-Rethread-Helicoil/dp/B018LMAXFU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P3ADEYE2MJQNFTSSY1E3

Best of luck.

You're very much welcome. That's of course just my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions and assholes.

Ah, mud. That brings us to tires. From a lot of reading, and a bit of experience, I can confidently say that dual sport tires do poorly both on-road and off-road. If you're talking about a 10 minute ride to the trailhead, do yourself a favor and put some proper offroad tires on. Just be careful on pavement, especially in the rain and especially while leaned over.

I don't remember where I read it (Motorcyclist, perhaps?) but the WR250R (not WR250F) was described as being a trail-ready bike made street legal, rather than a street-legal bike that can go on trails. It's supposedly one of the more trail-oriented dualsports out there.

That being said, for fuck's sake check the maintenance schedule and costs prior to purchase! I refuse to own a modern 4-stroke motocross bike for exactly this reason. On the KDX, for example, annual maintenance is changing the coolant, and throwing a head gasket and jug base gasket at it. Put a new piston/rings in if you're feeling spendy. Total cost: <$200 and a few hours of your time.

Another option, depending on Louisiana law--at least in Michigan it's relatively simple to plate an off-road bike. That way, you could purchase a bike that's more trail-oriented and just put on minimal stuff to get the plate. You may even be able to get away with skipping turn signals, as hand signals are legal in many states. Horn? Try this guy. Speedo? Here you go. Again, check your state and local laws.

Lighting system consists of a 60 watt L45 Stator

Trail Tech 7004-RR150 Reg/Rec for AC->DC conversion

and a 12V Tenergy 2000mAh NiMH battery. The battery isn't needed at all, as the stator works well enough even at idle to power the bar, but it's great to have for bike off lighting.

If you want to get rid of those front turn signals for something more stealth try these turn signal hand guards

Zeta XC Flasher WHITE Hand Shields (Pair) for Armor Handguards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LV0NG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5pAZCbF0D4Q02

https://www.amazon.com/Dango-Design-Gripper-Mount-GoPro/dp/B01BBAW028

Its easily removable, leaves no mount stickers on your helmet and captures the bars and gives a better feel in the video imo. I ride with it now and am sold(used to just clip it to helmet visor upside down, which works good until you are annoyed looking at it). I will be posting a lot more videos with it , just getting used to editing right now. Hours of content but I don't think people enjoy the strait up riding and only enjoy the hillclimbs and more technical trails. Not the dusty meh stuff around here.

Pretty sure it's the gripper mount.

https://www.amazon.com/Dango-Design-Gripper-Mount-GoPro/dp/B01BBAW028

I run this Telesin chin mount, same concept, cheaper and it's strapped so not as easy to take off but no worries about loosing it. Once I put it on, I never took it off. I definately agree on the angle, it's the best one I've tried in the past decade or so filming moto with gopros.
https://www.amazon.com/TELESIN-Motorcycle-Session-Campark-Polaroid/dp/B07G568QPC

I would invest in one of those ratio rite cups. They take all the thinking out of it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088PR5BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_D8UPBbY773FWX