Best products from r/FiestaST

Hey all, I got a bunch of info from here and the forums, so I thought I would give back and drop a few links.

First is the roof rack. I think the rola roof rack is the best looking and ends up being one of the cheapest.

Next up is the cargo box. I thought getting one this long would look stupid, but it's way better than I imagined. The rocketbox 11 is one of Thule's cheapest and big enough to fit my huge board in. No noticable drop in mpg, either - hovering barely above 33.

The backup camera is a fantastic upgrade. I followed this post and dug into the forums posted there. I would double check the apim codes because it's a tad dangerous and I didn't use the same exact codes as u/brbauer2 (I have the 2016 w/ sync 3). Shoutout, by the way, the album was super helpful. Also, the pins we inserted to the wiring harness didn't connect with the head unit, so I shredded a small amount of foil to bridge those connections.

Canying Car Trunk Handle Rear...

BAFX Products Bluetooth...

And finally, I like having my windows down in the rain, so I got them smoker vents.

Maybe someday I'll get that accessport/intercooler and a rear motor mount, but I'm loving it as it is!

You all bought awesome cars, thanks for the help, catch you later.

You can run wiring through the rubber grommets behind the steering column and near the fuse box in the glove box area. http://www.fordfiesta.org/forum/threads/378-Fiesta-ST-subwoofer-wiring-project

I personally ran my wiring underneath the Fiesta, as I was using 0 gauge wiring which is quite thick to run through the firewall without drilling. Power wire with an inline fuse from the battery goes underneath the car to the trunk. There is a nice cover on the bottom of the car and you can run it next to the brake lines. I also wrapped the wire in abrasive resistant wire sheath. The trunk has a very convenient rubber gasket that you can feed the wire through, it keeps it waterproof.

For the signal wire I spliced into the two rear speakers and then ran those wires back to the trunk. There is a channel on the edge of the doors to run the wire, just pull up the rubber. In order to get to the speaker wire you can pop off the plastic cover on the middle column. I only pulled it out a few inches and was able to splice into the wires. The splice speaker wires will be converted to RCA which will then be fed to the amp. Just make sure your amplifier has proper filters.

Power wire to battery with inline fuse.

Notice wire sheathing for protection.

Bringing the power wire into the trunk - there is already a rubber grommet that can be used.

Braided wire sleeves on Amazon (get the right size depending on what wire gauge you use).

Kick panel channels under the weather stripping and pulling out the plastic cover to expose the rear speaker wiring.

My wiring setup.

Shit diagram of the wiring setup.

Bass controller in the glove box.

Sub.

Fiesta ST speaker wire color codes:

• Fiesta ST Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White
  
• Fiesta ST Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown
  
• Fiesta ST Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Violet
  
• Fiesta ST Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange
  
• Fiesta ST Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green
  
• Fiesta ST Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow
  
• Fiesta ST Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White
  
• Fiesta ST Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue

Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OKYQzbAT9VST5


Thats what i have. I didnt run anything to clean up the signal but i did isolate the signal wire from the power and ground. I ran sheilded speaker wire from the passenger B pillar and underneath the back seat cushion. I ran the power through the cabin, tucked underneath the carpet and door seals.

The sub is smart enough to turn on and off by detecting signal from the head unit.


I forgot to mention the best part. The harness just clips into the sub so removal is super easy. I have it attached to the false floor and i can easily pull it in and out for track days.

For that range on a stock vehicle, there's a few things I would recommend:

1. Rear Motor Mount. Not exciting, but it's 100% recommended eventually and will make the car feel better (less wheel hop, no problems down the line with a blown mount). Does require some tools to install (jack, stands, sockets) but is very straightforward. Popular options from Whoosh, Cobb, lots of companies. $90 - $150 or so depending.
   
   
2. Pierce Front Chassis Brace. Great product, will make the car feel more together and reduce wheel hop under hard acceleration. They come in a 2pt, 4pt, and full 6 point versions. I personally have the 2, it's great, but I want to upgrade to a 6 at some point. Also a 2 point version from Whoosh that is cheaper and virtually identical. Requires same tools as the RMM. $100 - $300 depending on type and company.
   
   
3. Hi Flow Air Filter. Simple, cheap, and most people end up getting them anyway. Plug and play, just need a screwdriver. $30 - $70 depending.
   
   
4. Gorilla Lug Nuts. Sounds weird, but stock FiST lugs are atrocious and will fail eventually... save him the headache and get him some newer, better ones. Ones like THIS work great and are cheap. Need a lugwrench and a preferably a tall cliff to chuck the old ones off. $30 - $60 depending.
   
   There's plenty more you could go with, but it's hard to know how far he's planning to take the car.

Hi Yes. I actually found this via another Fiesta ST owner. I ordered the iOttie holder. It works well in that the suction mechanism is really great and it holds very well to the textured surface, no need for drilling, etc. Can reposition and adust as needed. I'm very happy with it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076B27WP6?aaxitk=HOtzac.O7k7wsW3Iv.fjQA&pd_rd_i=B076B27WP6&pf_rd_p=9420597b-7dad-4cbd-a28d-7d676ac67378&hsa_cr_id=6800788390301&sb-ci-n=asinImage&sb-ci-v=https%3A%2F%2Fm.media-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F718NVofDrCL.jpg&sb-ci-a=B076B27WP6

It is really a pain to get it in there right but its about the best use of those windows that I can think of. I got the idea from someone here and used the mount they recommended. If yours is this long it should work great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BZC262Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Scosche Magicmount Pro and I stick it on the matte plastic on the left side below the volume knob. It's a perfect spot to plug in, and use while you are driving, and the magnet power is amazing, and the part that sticks to your phone is super low profile.

Here is what it looks like:

https://i.imgur.com/Y7Z9DD7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uwpxa7I.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ij0lrpo.jpg

Hey man, get whatever size you want. Recalibrating the speedo is super easy and takes 10 minutes.

Buy an ELM compatible dongle (this is mine) and run Forscan on your laptop. You can change your tire size to whatever you want and your speedo, odo and everything else will be 100% accurate.


I'm running OEM FiST wheels on my EcoBoost and my speedo is still perfect, even though the 17"s are about 1" bigger on the diameter.

I have an update on my own blend door problem. Because I'm a glutton for punishment I went ahead and bought the Dorman replacement that I mentioned in my other comment and did it myself instead of taking it to Ford. I can confirm that the Dorman part is significantly heavier, physically thicker and higher quality than the OEM unit. The gear set is in a slightly different arrangement and the gears themselves are more robust. I can also confirm the overall shitty quality of the OEM part.

The install wasn't quite a nightmare, but it was challenging. I used this video as reference though I didn't have to take the driver's seat out. I also had this handy mini ratchet which was absolutely perfect for the job along with a T20 bit. Now the tricky part which I wasn't quite sure of going in: I switched the car on and turned off the HVAC assuming that doing so would put the actuator in some sort of parked position. This probably isn't necessary since it likely goes back to the same position when the car is turned off. Anyway, after removing the OEM blend door I noted which position the output shaft was in. There's a little arrow on the casing that part of the gear lined up with. The new unit's output shaft wasn't in the same orientation. So, I plugged the Dorman unit in but didn't install it, turned the car on and switched the HVAC on and off to put the new unit in the same position as the OEM one. After that I noticed the output shaft still wasn't in the correct orientation. So, I had to open it up and take out one of the drive gears so I could reorient the output shaft. Once I did this the new unit slid into position pretty easily and I tested it out and BAM, no noise and the climate control works as expected. Now to see if this one lasts longer than 13,000 miles but after seeing the two parts together I really think it will. Hope this helps someone!

Edit: So I've got everything in one place for people stumbling across this here's the link to the Dorman part. It is Dorman 604-400 Air Door Actuator replacing OE part BE8Z19E616B

I saw this same setup posted here and got it immediately. Works very nicely and in the months I've had it, it's prompted many friends and family to get it for their own cars. Some links for those interested:

Proclip dash mount

Scosche magic mount

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F3CN5CY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Similar. It's just 8mil thick tape. This was a pretty good value. 3" x 100' for $30.

Hmmmm that's interesting. Mine haven't died on me yet. What kind of climate are you living in? Because I'm from So Cal so it wasn't exposed to low temps but it will be to higher temps. But so far it's been good to me. I purchased this one.


https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XQ3QKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



and this is back in Mid January. The only hiccups I notice sometimes is when I put it in reverse there's a slight flicker but doesn't happen all the times but I think it's just from the camera turning on. Also the ring around the lens is beginning to turn bronze.

Otherwise mine has been great so far but I do live in no snow, no rain weather. Just sun, sun, sun. Wonder what yours could be going on or why it dies.

I went with these on recommendation from several people in this sub. They feel pretty high quality and look great with black wheels.

Here ya go! It's this one. I've really liked having it so far! Also, I totally have that ice chest lol.

I use the DYC stuff. It works well, for about the same price as the Griots. It smells pretty strongly, though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EKS5EN6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_wUW6wbA8C55WJ

This is by far the best I've ever used, the magnet is crazy strong.

These are the three that people seem to use from the Fiesta ST forums.

Ravenol MTF-2

Motul DSG

Motul Gear 300

You'll need to get 2L to do a full change, 1.7L capacity. I haven't changed mine yet, but I've read it's much easier to refill if you remove the air box and gravity fill instead of having to pump the new fluid in.

You also can't go wrong with the OEM stuff.

XT-11-QDC DCTF

Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps

As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)

Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.

Auto Ventshade 94547 Original Ventvisor Side Window Deflector Dark Smoke, 4-Piece Set for 2009-2018 Ford Fiesta https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0092P1A6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_y4YZDbTG1W7VZ

In response to you and /u/StuckXJ, it looks like this mount. I have this one mounted on my windshield for my AP since it has a built in magnet and it works extremely well.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-DJ5Z-16A550-BA-Molded-Splash/dp/B00HB9KCCE

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Pretty confident its the splash guard that is missing from the picture.

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Make sure you get the Dorman brand ones or you will be replacing them again. This is a stronger part that fixed the issues with the OE ones. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-604-400-Air-Door-Actuator/dp/B01ID3WOM2

Yes, there are plenty of posts on here about them. I preemptively bought these and they have been just fine: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O0AMZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sa-no-redirect=1

Thanks everyone!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004R34HDC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ravenol J1C1002 SAE 75W-80 Manual Transmission Fluid - MTF-2 Full Synthetic API GL-4 (1 Liter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGXB15O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FGOwDbGD6376A

This stuff meets ford spec and is the favorite on the forums.

It cost me around $50-$60 I think. I used this camera and I used this OBD2 adapter. I also needed some small connectors to plug the video wire into the back of the head unit (these things).

I used this thread by /u/brbauer2 as a guide, which was very helpful.

It was kind of difficult, but mostly because I don't really have much experience with the wiring stuff so I went slow to make sure I didn't mess up any splices or anything. I also initially put the wrong wire into the back of the head unit, so I had to take it back apart and use the right wire (the thread I used shows a red wire in the back of the head unit connector, its actually the yellow wire from the video cable that you want) but that only took maybe an additional 30 minutes.

Overall, I'd say go for it if you're interested!

Here are the ones I bought and they fit:
Amazon Link

I think I just looked up the size of the stock ones and found some with matching thread dimensions.

> I tried your 2nd link, https://www.ebay.com/itm/163194228589, meh... not so impressed. The seller sent me a 2nd bottle after I showed him how dark it was compared to stock. The 2nd bottle was a bit better, but not by much.

Thanks! That's exactly the input I was looking for. The eBay seller actually also replied to me overnight with the following

>To be honest we are not too sure on the US Spec models.

I did do some research and found out that even though the US and Euro Rado Grays were supposed to be the same, they may have been slightly different since its allegedly a very hard color to mix. Also found the paint code for Rado Gray, but I can only find one reference to it anywhere on the web, and it happens to be Color N Drive (same kit as the Amazon link in my OP). I may actually give that one a try. Will report back if I decide to do it.

As for lug nuts, I am planning on ditching the OEM ones. Currently I'm using the set that came with my steelies from Tire Rack and just got this set of black Gorilla lug nuts for when I go back to summers.

Reposting what I said further down :)

• Lug nuts (Gorilla 12x1.5)
  
  
• Tires (Cooper Zeon RS3-A Radial Tire - 205/40R17 84Z XL - VERY STICKY TIRE FOR AN ALL-SEASON)
  
  
• Wheels (Rota Recce 17x8, 4x108, offset 40, hb 73)

I bought one off amazon, it's 21.99 and only works with android but it works amazingly. BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_N4J7yb8239RKN

Blend door actuator. Get it replaced under warranty and do it again later or buy the Dorman unit. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-604-400-Air-Door-Actuator/dp/B01ID3WOM2

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS

These are the Gorilla lugs I put on my car last week:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O0AMZS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O0AMZS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have no idea if you're screwed or not.