(Part 2) Best products from r/FiestaST

Thanks for coming back with a good attitude and good info, I appreciate it! It appears looking at the technical data that you natively get better lumens (of course) going with 4300k vs higher, but also at better CRI, I'm looking at a passive cooled set of 4300k using CREE XHP-70 chips HERE and would LOVE to try these special HID for reflectors HERE or maybe some good known ones from places like Xenon Depot. But I agree wholly there are not that many good ones worth considering, I just REALLY would like no lower than 4300k, I find any lower to just be gross looking. Since 4300k is ideal for a number of reasons anyway, seems like the perfect place to look at options without going full euro headlight swap or some crazy custom retrofit.

Lots of variables for tires & brakes. I've heard of folks eating up a set of tires and brake pads in one weekend. Those with more wear, it could be after a day. The OEM pads & tires are fine for the track, but you will most likely eat them up pretty fast, again, depending how you're driving. For your first day, if you're not particularly aggressive, you should be fine. If you are on it, they will go much faster. Are you comfortable changing your own brake pads? If so, bring the tools to do it and extra sets of pads. (front & rear) That will give you peace of mind.

After every session you're going to want to check a few things:

• Lug nuts with a torque wrench (I picked up this one on Amazon a few years ago and it's worked well.) Torque ONLY when wheels are cold, eg. right before you go out on track. Do NOT use 12 point sockets - use a good six-point only! (OEM Ford lug nuts are ABSOLUTE GARBAGE and will fall apart.)
  
• Tire pressures. Get a good tire pressure gauge, something like this. (similar to this - I recommend analog, as you don't have to worry about batteries)
  
• Brake pad wear - visual inspection - look carefully at the pad material on all four corners. Make sure you have plenty. Check inner & outer pads.
  
• Tire wear - pay attention to how your tires are behaving and wearing. Adjust pressures as necessary. I normally start the day out about 8-10 PSI less than the OEM specs. After your first session, immediately check pressures. Tell your instructor you want to do so, they will help you. You want the hot pressures to be somewhere around your OEM pressures. You may have to add/remove some air to get the tires where you want them to be. Take notes, and experiment.
  
• Open the hood after your session and inspect the engine. Get used to what it looks like and look carefully for leaks or anything that is out of place. You may have issues with overheating as so many folks have in the past. If you notice your coolant temp climbing, put the heat on full blast and run it out the side vents. This will help mitigate the issue enough to get you by. The solution is a larger radiator but that's for another time.
  
• One last thing, when you come in off of a hot track, try not to use your brakes. When you park your car, use wooden blocks or wheel chocks. Don't use a parking brake. Let the pads/rotors cool without touching. I like to run my car for a few min after coming off track to let the coolant circulate a bit, with the hood open. Up to you if you do this. Heat is the enemy, gives me peace of mind to let it cool faster.

What I bought- 3rd brake light flasher - fast flash 24

I love it!! I tried the flashing led bulbs, but for some reason just flashed constantly with the car running.

Turns out I like this design much better as it's brighter and more focused in one area makes it stand out better. Cost $10 and is an extremely easy install.

I use this magnetic mount that sticks into the CD slot. There is a super thin steel plate that sits between my phone and its case. The magnet is super strong and if you have the phone horizontal it won't block the MFT screen. It also does not fall or move around under spirited driving.

I've got two preferred options I've used before in other cars, but not the Fiesta so far.

Something like this is a nice and easy mount. You can get one that grips onto a climate vent instead if that works better for you. They're easy and cheap and not as bulky.

Second option for larger holders that use a suction cup mount, buy one of these discs to create a flat surface to stick to that isn't hanging off the window and blocking your view. You could put that just to the left of your steering wheel, above the climate vent. I prefer this for Satnavs etc.

I have an update on my own blend door problem. Because I'm a glutton for punishment I went ahead and bought the Dorman replacement that I mentioned in my other comment and did it myself instead of taking it to Ford. I can confirm that the Dorman part is significantly heavier, physically thicker and higher quality than the OEM unit. The gear set is in a slightly different arrangement and the gears themselves are more robust. I can also confirm the overall shitty quality of the OEM part.

The install wasn't quite a nightmare, but it was challenging. I used this video as reference though I didn't have to take the driver's seat out. I also had this handy mini ratchet which was absolutely perfect for the job along with a T20 bit. Now the tricky part which I wasn't quite sure of going in: I switched the car on and turned off the HVAC assuming that doing so would put the actuator in some sort of parked position. This probably isn't necessary since it likely goes back to the same position when the car is turned off. Anyway, after removing the OEM blend door I noted which position the output shaft was in. There's a little arrow on the casing that part of the gear lined up with. The new unit's output shaft wasn't in the same orientation. So, I plugged the Dorman unit in but didn't install it, turned the car on and switched the HVAC on and off to put the new unit in the same position as the OEM one. After that I noticed the output shaft still wasn't in the correct orientation. So, I had to open it up and take out one of the drive gears so I could reorient the output shaft. Once I did this the new unit slid into position pretty easily and I tested it out and BAM, no noise and the climate control works as expected. Now to see if this one lasts longer than 13,000 miles but after seeing the two parts together I really think it will. Hope this helps someone!

Edit: So I've got everything in one place for people stumbling across this here's the link to the Dorman part. It is Dorman 604-400 Air Door Actuator replacing OE part BE8Z19E616B

I'd recommend it, I started off using it after DDWRT on an old WRT54GL, the original Tomato firmware hasn't had any changes now in several years but many more projects have come and gone like Tomato-USB, Advanced Tomato, Shibby, Toastman, and many more I'm missing that are all based on the code.

I found Advanced Tomato to look the most modern and have much of the same features as other firmwares, check out the website for supported hardware. With some doing you can make this T-mobile branded one into a proper router, which is worth the effort.

I use one of these on the passenger visor. Send to work pretty well

Sunglasses Holder for Sun Visor / Air Vent -- Conveniently Holds Sunglasses -- Easy One Handed Operation -- By Superior Essentials https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGZZ0DY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_hisBaYPSuS2Sr

Love the brush and sky in the background, are you in the Sierra Nevada's or Arizona?

I started using this stuff and it is incredible; so fast and uses no water, the best car care product I have ever used.

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC-707-16-EcoSmart-Concentrated/dp/B011LMTQNC/

I originally wanted Lathewerks but they are a bit pricy. Ended up getting a Billetworkz 1lb knob from Amazon for about $50 on sale a few months ago. LOVE IT
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YQD7KD/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This works just fine for me. It was $0.94 when I bought it two years ago for my old car, but $1.84 is still pretty good. It clips into the closest air vent next to the screen and stays without issue. I prefer it to the long armed ones that bound a ton with the FiST's stiff suspension.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J9Z0L42/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do you have any wide open stretches of pavement you can screw around on without drawing unwanted attention? A big un-lit parking lot in an industrial area for example? The best way to learn driving is by doing it, and particularly by screwing up in a controlled manner so you can learn how the car feels when you take it over the limit. If there's nothing to hit for hundreds of feet you can go out when the weather is bad (I don't think you guys get snow, but rain works almost as well) and intentionally put the car out of control knowing that if you don't get it back under control you at least won't hit anything.

Beyond that, this book is always one I've heard of for being very good: http://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262/

I've never read it myself but it comes up all the time on various forums when this sort of question is asked.

There's nothing really special about driving this specific car. It's a front-engine front-drive with independent front suspension and a beam axle out back. The turbo is small enough that lag is not really a huge factor and you don't need to think about it much at a basic level. Most hot hatches have a similar formula, with the main difference being some of the nicer ones have independent suspension in the back too.

I started writing up some basic instructions here, but then I figured there are enough people here who actually race competitively or semi-competitively and would be better at it than a guy who knows the theory but puts it to practice mostly hooning on back roads and playing video games.

Sure!

194 LED Light bulb, Yorkim® 2015 Newest, 5th Generation, Interior Lights for W5W 194 168 2825 T10 Wedge 5-smd 5050, Replacement and Reverse T10 White Bulbs, Used For Signal Lights, Trunk Lights, Dashboard Lights, Parking Lights, With Great Brightness and Longer Life(Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JRE38EA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_4zGGwb0XX9BSZ

I decided to flush the coolant just to be safe as well as for my own sanity. The mixed coolant appears to still be just fine, though. I purchased:

Genuine Ford Fluid VC-3-B Orange Concentrated Antifreeze/Coolant - 1 Gallon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BNVK14U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

Genuine Ford Fluid VC-1 Premium Cooling System Flush - 22 oz.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NU16UA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

First time I do this, so it should be an interesting weekend!

Can you remind me which one you got? Was it a bottle style? Or the ultra quiet one like this?

https://www.amazon.ca/Vibrant-1140-Ultra-Quiet-Resonator/dp/B000E3VHW8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1483639310&sr=8-5&keywords=vibrant+resonator

You might try replacing the resonator with one of these, id be curious on how it would sound:
https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-1140-Ultra-Quiet-Resonator/dp/B000E3VHW8/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1472860065&sr=1-2&keywords=ultra+quiet