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Just to be clear: restoring old bikes is a money-losing prospect. If the bike has sentimental value, or it's the bike you've always wanted, or it's a gift for that special someone, a massive rebuild and overhaul can be very satisfying. But unless you're in a really weird situation (like you have a mint bike that's untitleable and an identical bike that needs a lot of work but is legal, or something like that) you're not going to make money. On the other hand, if you've got one you ride regularly already and you want to maintain it yourself, that's a pretty valid course of action.

I do it for the satisfaction, myself. (Also to impress girls. When I met my SO she had two Rebels in storage. They'd been there for three years. Some carb cleaning, new fluids, and two new batteries later and she's mine. Heh.) Really, it's just a great feeling.

Let me recommend a book to you: How to Get Your Motorcycle Up and Running. I also like the guy's videos. It's a fantastic introduction to working on bikes.

I would plan on replacing those screws, they are Japanese (JIS) Phillips head tapered with metric threads, and it could be interesting finding them without going to a dealer. Some well stocked hardware stores will have metric screws, but those will have regular Phillips heads, which are OK, just remember later.

As for tools, don’t cheap out on sockets and open and wrenches, get six point sockets and wrenches because they will remove stubborn bolts without rounding them off, and then a small selection set of ratcheting wrenches will do most of your other work. Metric T-Handle ball end Allen wrenches may be useful also. As for a torque wrench, I’ve had good success and tested the ones from Harbor freight and for infrequent DIY use, they work fine.

Japanese Philips head screws are different than US/SAE screw heads. Get these:

Hozan JIS-4 JIS Screwdriver Set (NEW 3rd. Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pWr2AbXJJVS7D


As for your chain, get a plastic tray like a kitty litter box and soak your chain in kerosene or diesel for a day, wear rubber gloves and brush it off with a stiff plastic brush. Hang it dry at least overnight, dispose of the cleaning solution responsibly and dump some motor oil in there and then soak the chain in the motor oil overnight. Wipe everything off with a clean rag and then put it back together. Maintain your chain as normal and it shouldn’t get crusty. You don’t need or want to do this on a new chain though.

You might want to check the wires to make sure they're ok, I'd cut and replace a few inches of cable either side if the cables are all good, and then get some waterproof connectors like these (I used these when installing an integrated taillight and they're pretty nice): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FYXGZJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It might be possible to find true Ducati connectors though.

That piece of metal looks like it bolts under the chain cover and rides about .25 inches off the chain. It makes sure the chain can't get loose and skip a tooth on the front sprocket. It's also extra protection if the chain breaks, it might stop the chain from flinging forward and taking out the engine case. I may be wrong on identifying this part, that's just my best guess. It's not required to ride the bike, but it's nice to have.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/0kdDaZ4EAyA/maxresdefault.jpg

That's a good example of the guide, this one wraps around almost 180 degrees of the front sprocket.

As for your oil leak, there is no camshaft seal. To get some terminology right, a seal is used to keep oil in between a solid case part and a spinning shaft. A gasket is used between 2 solid case parts that don't move. The camshaft is higher up on the motor and it doesn't have an external seal, so it can't be leaking. This could be your output shaft seal. It goes behind your front sprocket.

http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2007-yamaha-virago-250-ca-xv250w1c/o/m145022#sch533970

If it doesn't link directly, put in your bike model, select transmission, oem parts, transmission. Number 25. Youll need an impact gun or a big breaker bar to get the front sprocket off, and a seal puller to get the old one out.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

Youll also need a hammer and the proper size socket to use as a driver to put the new on in. Don't forget to grease it up before installing it, helps it go in easier.

If the leak isn't coming from behind the sprocket, post a few pictures of where it is coming from and send me a pm, I'll help ID what's leaking. The only other option on that side of the bike though is the shifter seal or the crankcase inspection port o-ring.

Edit: you don't need a breaker bar for your front sprocket. Not sure how that sprocket mounts, but it doesn't have the single large nut most bikes do.

i purchased that one and used it for a few years until I decided I wanted an adjustable lever setup. So I purchased and installed this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Sporacingrts-Cylinder-Reservoir-Motorcycle-125-600CC/dp/B07G982ZYS/ref=sr_1_56_sspa?keywords=shorty+brake+clutch+master&qid=1563230566&s=gateway&sr=8-56-spons&psc=1

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the adjusters are crap, but if you tighten the adjusters real good it's not terrible. I have another set of levers on order to replace them but adjustable is much nicer than that first option you posted.

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Get a handle on your piston sizes so you understand what size master cylinder will work for you. My 750 has upgraded dual piston single caliper on the front and I'm running a 1/2" master cylinder. Dual calipers will prob need a larger master cylinder like 14mm

https://older-carsandbikes.blogspot.com/2009/11/1980-honda-cb750c-brake-upgrade-part-1.html

Harbor freight bead breaker is only $14. Totally worth it. Also to balance the tires, I picked up this one from amazon and mounted it on two jack stands. Works great.

As for the tire changing process, I use the zip tie method for mounting the new tire. I don't particularly like it for removing the old tire. Also make sure the tires are warmed up before you start. They will be so much more stretchy and flexible.

My 2 cents: It sounds to me like you're experiencing the early stages of your charging system failing. It could be the stator or the rectifier/regulator. However, only further testing would confirm whether this is the case.

Another post a few days ago referenced this handy electrical problem solving webpage, I'd suggest you have a look (all you really need is a multimeter) https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/elektronik When I read through this page I noticed a few things I think could have been described better for people who are completely new to this kind of electrical testing, so it might be a good idea to have a look on youtube for further explanations of any parts of these procedures you aren't clear on. There's loads of stuff out there to help https://www.denniskirk.com/learn/how-to-diagnose-motorcycle

I got a book on motorcycle electrical systems a while back which I found to be excellent, so if you really want to go nuts investigating this issue you might like to check it out (or some similar book) https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Electrical-Systems-Troubleshooting-Motorbooks/dp/0760327165


G'luck!

You don't need a super expensive multimeter to work on bikes. The $6 one from Harbor freight will work fine, but the lead are short and the wire inside is thin.

I often use the AstoAI one from Amazon that runs about $11. I picked this one because I didn't need a crazy meter and It had a decent clamshell case for it.

I combine the meter with this kit . . . super sharp / low profile meter leads are a GOD send.

As for your connectors. I've never used those personally, but the waterproof bullet insert type that have a male/female end are often found on bikes from the factory.

Thank you for the help! I think I'm starting to understand. Would it be ok to buy a relay like this? Is all the wiring there and I just need the relay or will I need some primary wire? I could find this stuff at a hardware store, right? My local motorcycle store said they only had relays for turn signals.

I'm a huge fan of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000H6PM32/ref=pd_aw_sims_3?pi=SL500_SY115

(Sorry, on mobile)
They've saved my as 4 or 5 times and the individual sizes are relatively cheap. Bought one at Lowes and I've been able to use it without it breaking or shearing on me. Would highly recommend so far.

If you ran the battery totally dry, it's hosed. You need a new one.

Now, I don't know the year of your bike, but a 2012 Ninja 650R can use the YUASA YTX12-BS

I used this selection tool

A quick check found it for ~$68 on Amazon

Revzilla recommends a slightly different model for the same 2012 650R for about $112, although I've found Amazon often has them cheaper. Don't trust Amazon to tell you if it'll fit correctly, however. They got it wrong for my Triumph but Revzilla and Yausa both agreed on a part number.

I'd put in your specific Year/Model into one of those two websites and order a dry-charged battery. You'll need to get a trickle charger that'll do 0.75A or 1A at most, and it'll probably take an overnight cycle for the initial charge before you can install it.

It's a good sign they tested it and some battery places like that do indeed set them up properly. I'd call and tell them your situation and see if they can test the battery they sold you.


I'd pick up a cheap meter. They can be found for less than $15 and have many uses. For most things, a basic cheap one is fine.



https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1521913651&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=dmm&psc=1


edit: Make sure you aren't turning the key too far counter-clockwise and leaving the tail light on (parking light) Not sure if that model has that built in to the key switch and it is not uncommon to have that happen)

Thanks! You'd recommend just a single application of this stuff? Is there anywhere else in particular that ACF50 comes in handy, to justify buying a can?

Definitely better to use a trickle charger lead with a fuse.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HHPBF46?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=E0C16K3XS36A8PZ1W1R4

I've removed clear coat with 3M pads, they come in a variety of grits and leave a nice surface finish if you're careful with them. https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-General-Purpose-6-Inch-9-Inch/dp/B000LPN3WQ

I've removed many of those with these. Just stick the extractor end in. Works best if used with an impact driver.

Clean it out and replace the gaskets, then add some inline fuel filters below the petcock since the mesh on the petcock is gone. Something like this is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/K-N-81-0221-Fuel-Filter/dp/B000E2AR70

Make sure you use a proper impact driver to get those screws out. A regular screwdriver will just strip the heads. https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-125943-P3x150-Impacta-Screwdriver/dp/B003BGTTSE/ This will be useful on other parts of the bike as well. Don't end up like this guy or countless others. https://www.reddit.com/r/DRZ400/comments/3lhxyp/fixing_my_countershaft_oil_seal_leak_and_stripped/

This battery ($65) yuasa or this battery ($41) Chrome pro? Regulator = $45. Stator $100+. Reg and stator combo = $105. So do I even need the stator? Thanks!

Remove the shift lever and then pull that entire side cover off that it attaches to.

Careful, those phillips head screws have a hardness somewhere between aluminum and old cheese. An impact driver (and the proper #3 JIS screwdriver bit) will make all the difference in the world. Once they are out, replace them with allen screws from your local hardware store.

Edit: If you don't have access to an impact, this is well worth $15. And will make the rest of the case disassembly easier.

> Okay, so this is my chain:
> http://sprocketcenter.com/street-sprocket-applications/suzuki/sv-650-99-08/520-conversion-kit-superlite-rs7-steel-sprocket-set-with-colored-x-ring-chain-13-colors-suzuki-sv650-99-08.html
> And here is a clip I found with same day delivery on amazon:
> https://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Chain-Clip-Type-Connecting/dp/B00230567W?keywords=520+clip+master+link&qid=1537193544&sr=8-2&ref=mp_s_a_1_2
> It appears this will work?

Copying what I commented, does this look okay?

Soak it in penetrating oil overnight. Heat the top of the fork with a heat gun.

Buy one of these. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

Use it like this:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWLE_jjEKZI

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG

Will that seal puller work with the transmission countershaft still in place?

>>Not sure how that sprocket mounts, but it doesn't have the single large nut most bikes do.

The OP will have to remove 2 small bolts and the sprocket retainer bolted to the countershaft sprocket
to get it off.

If you can get your hands on some brown 3M Scotch-Brite (the pads, not discs), it'll be less hard on the metal than the steel wool the next time around.