(Part 2) Best products from r/FordFocus

Headlights - low beam - I didn't get high beams because I live in a bigger city and never use them.

https://www.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Extremely-Headlight-Conversion/dp/B01JYC0RTI

Fog lights


https://www.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Extremely-Bright-Chipsets/dp/B01IMVQWDM

Backups/ Reverse lights


https://www.amazon.com/LUYED-Extremely-Chipsets-Reverse-Brightest/dp/B01LX4FMD1


Just make sure to select the correct bulb socket, not sure if any of them have changed with each generation, mine were for a 2014.

Edit - not a bad idea to keep your stock ones in the glovebox in case one goes bad, although they are rated for way longer than you will probably use them. Use a glove to take glass ones out and put back in if you are able. Oil from your skin will heat up on the surface of the bulb and heat up and it will burn out quicker otherwise.

Edit again - if you don't like the lights on the mirrors being a big contrast, you can use vinyl smoke film to cover them. You can still see them when they're blinking but otherwise they're not nearly as noticeable. It's personal preference but if you do, vvivid makes good products and they're easy to use. You can find that on Amazon too and I think it's only like $10-12, one roll is way more than you'd need for those.

I've tried a number of them. There were a few windshield mounts that were alright, but took up a lot of visibility. I tried quite a few dash mounts, but most of them wouldn't stick. Then I found this one, which works great and is very stable.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01780KZMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vM1WBbH04DM5V

I bought a kit from Spiral Audio via eBay that included the dash and basic wiring for $90. The listing isn't valid anymore, but it was like this one (which is more expensive at $129): https://www.ebay.com/itm/283558904867

Then I bought an ATOTO A6 double-DIN touchscreen running Android for $135 during Prime Day: https://amazon.com/dp/B07B3TX6MF

This solution disables steering wheel controls and while I debated spending another $130 on the iDatalink solution (Maestro RR / ADS-MRR for $100, and HRN-RR-FO2 harness for $30), I don't need to use those controls enough to justify the cost.

A quick glance at eBay doesn't show a deal like I got on the dash kit and basic wiring, so I'd probably consider the iDatalink wiring solution and a $90-100 dash kit.

I agree with U/linuxgator, i wouldn't tow anything with the focus because the owners manual does not recommend it and does not even give a tow capacity.

That said, i do have a hitch on mine which i installed solely for carrying my bike rack. I've got this one. It was super easy to install, took about 30-45 min. The only modification needed was slightly grinding off the shoulders of 2 of the bolts to allow them to pass through the access hole in the frame rail.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018ERRLU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm sure there is a better fitting one out there but I've been using this for the past month without any hassles once you get the hang of the putting it back in the bag twist. It bends and conforms to the windshield just fine for me. Obviously in the image that car has no rear view mirror so its not gonna look so smooth.

Partly commenting just to see if anyone has a much much better suggestion that really does fit.

There are a couple on amazon I'm thinking about. Would like to keep it under $50.

Deciding between this ANCEL AD310, and this ANCEL AD410. Either one seems to fit my pretty basic needs for a scanner...

They’re called Rek Gen’s..I wish I got the rally armour ones but I tried to be nice and asked my ex for the cheaper ones for my bday present lol.

REK GEN Rally Mud Flaps Compatible w/Ford Focus 11+ (Black Logo) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RPXJJH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pIU3Db3TCB5MQ

Looks like the rust is between the two pieces of metal. You might get away with sandblasting that real good and then hitting it with some rust reformer. That'll turn your rust into a dark primer. Works pretty well for body rust. I'm unsure how it would do squeezing between two panels.

I'm not sure how the tweeters come out because I haven't changed my speakers over yet. In shaa Allah. But I do have a fairly high end set of Polk audio woofers and tweeters with crossover so you're not crazy for going that route. I've seen people wire in the mini amps like the one made by alpine which I also have.

So I'm pretty sure it's possible to wire in all that stuff. These are the speakers I have:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0R6LQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465262462&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=polk+audio+6.5+speakers&dpPl=1&dpID=41lSW9Ti-gL&ref=plSrch

Page 295 of the 2014 manual (version 3):

WW-2802 (driver side) /
WW-2803 (passenger side)

If you had a hatch, your blade part number would be WW-1204. If you have a 2015 hatch the two front blades are the same model, the hatch model is WW-1295.

Those are Motorcraft part numbers.

Amazon will sell you the driver side blade for $12.10 with free shipping, http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-WW-2802-Wiper-Blade/dp/B0080DVLJ8/

the passenger side for $14.76 with free shipping, http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-WW-2803-Wiper-Blade/dp/B0080DVMJ2/

the hatch blade is $15.42 with Prime, http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-WW-1204-Wiper-Blade/dp/B0080DVGKC/

There's my problem.

http://www.amazon.com/HitCar-Vehicle-Circuit-Profile-Holder/dp/B00U61OPZ4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00


Based upon that specific one.... you have the SMALL version. I ordered the MINI and its too shallow. Thanks for your help, I will be ordering up the small version now.

Which fuse did you tap into? It seems like the consensus is 86 but it makes me weary since its the airbag module. Are there any others that are on only with the ignition?

Thanks again for your help!

I used this one in mine

http://smile.amazon.com/Circuit-function-Bussmann-ATM-10-ATM-15/dp/B007D5DB88?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

I fit perfectly and is powering my dash cam now in my '14.

Tint I would definitely recommend a professional for sure, I know places around me do it relatively "cheap" for 150-160 and a lifetime warranty.

Window switches no idea, won't even bother commenting.

Sub is not very difficult. I added mine with the stock headunit w/sync w/o nav or MFT. It costs about 20 dollars for a LOC and a remote turn on switch.

Wiring harness isn't needed as I just used vampire clips (absolutely no idea what they're called all I know is they just clip into existing wires without splicing, they work perfect.)

I found a wiring diagram online for my particular model of HU and spliced into the two right and left sides of the speaker line outs and hooked it up the LOC and found a ant out turn on on the radio that would trigger the 12v out when the car would turn on and turn off when the car turned off.

It is my understanding there is an all in one however I don't know which one it is and I'll just link the two I used. I know what I did worked flawlessly and has for the past 8 or so months.

Obviously after that you'll need a wiring harness and sub/amp whatever else. I have found that high volume levels 20+ tend to cut the sub out completely and I'm not sure if it has to do with the HU doing that or my set up. My guess would be the stock HU doing that to try and attempt to save the stock speakers.

Remote turn on module: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-TR-4-Remote-Turn-on-Module/dp/B0002J22BE/


LOC converter: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/